96 grand cherokee abs light
05-05-2005, 07:28 PM
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 grand cherokee abs light
Yes, I copied and pasted the wrong link. Seeing as that light
doesn't bother you, why don't read a couple of Google searches:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&i...=Google+Search
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> ABS warning light is not the same as the brake warning light, try reading
> your link.
doesn't bother you, why don't read a couple of Google searches:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&i...=Google+Search
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Matt Macchiarolo wrote:
>
> ABS warning light is not the same as the brake warning light, try reading
> your link.
05-05-2005, 07:33 PM
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 grand cherokee abs light
nunya did pass the time by typing:
> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
^^^ I found your problem. :)
> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes, just
> the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50 start cycles,
> but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger rick secret de-coder
> ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice again?
Any number of things but I'm betting the gorrilla that towed your rig
wrapped a chain around one of the front ABS sensor wires and either
ripped it out or popped the connector. Check the front and back for
dangling wires.
Pulling the codes requries a OBD-II scantool. Your lucky in the fact
the 96 was the first year that used OBD-II.
> 2) a "starting" problem.
> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10 seconds,
> then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour drive.
> It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
Fuel pressure problem. One of two things will cause this.
1) fuel pressure regulator has failed
2) check valve in pump has failed
Checking either requires a special tool/hoses for stopping the fuel flow.
Never pinch the stock lines, it's bad for them.
In the mean time just turn the key on, wait till the pump stops buzzing,
then turn the key off, then on, buzzzz, then start.
> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil every
> 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
That's normal, but you could go to 5k on the oil without any worries. 3 is
a bit often unless your only driving short city trips.
20lbs sounds low. Read what the door says, most say 32psi and running
tires low eats fuel.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
^^^ I found your problem. :)
> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes, just
> the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50 start cycles,
> but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger rick secret de-coder
> ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice again?
Any number of things but I'm betting the gorrilla that towed your rig
wrapped a chain around one of the front ABS sensor wires and either
ripped it out or popped the connector. Check the front and back for
dangling wires.
Pulling the codes requries a OBD-II scantool. Your lucky in the fact
the 96 was the first year that used OBD-II.
> 2) a "starting" problem.
> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10 seconds,
> then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour drive.
> It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
Fuel pressure problem. One of two things will cause this.
1) fuel pressure regulator has failed
2) check valve in pump has failed
Checking either requires a special tool/hoses for stopping the fuel flow.
Never pinch the stock lines, it's bad for them.
In the mean time just turn the key on, wait till the pump stops buzzing,
then turn the key off, then on, buzzzz, then start.
> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil every
> 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
That's normal, but you could go to 5k on the oil without any worries. 3 is
a bit often unless your only driving short city trips.
20lbs sounds low. Read what the door says, most say 32psi and running
tires low eats fuel.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
05-05-2005, 07:33 PM
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 grand cherokee abs light
nunya did pass the time by typing:
> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
^^^ I found your problem. :)
> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes, just
> the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50 start cycles,
> but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger rick secret de-coder
> ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice again?
Any number of things but I'm betting the gorrilla that towed your rig
wrapped a chain around one of the front ABS sensor wires and either
ripped it out or popped the connector. Check the front and back for
dangling wires.
Pulling the codes requries a OBD-II scantool. Your lucky in the fact
the 96 was the first year that used OBD-II.
> 2) a "starting" problem.
> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10 seconds,
> then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour drive.
> It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
Fuel pressure problem. One of two things will cause this.
1) fuel pressure regulator has failed
2) check valve in pump has failed
Checking either requires a special tool/hoses for stopping the fuel flow.
Never pinch the stock lines, it's bad for them.
In the mean time just turn the key on, wait till the pump stops buzzing,
then turn the key off, then on, buzzzz, then start.
> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil every
> 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
That's normal, but you could go to 5k on the oil without any worries. 3 is
a bit often unless your only driving short city trips.
20lbs sounds low. Read what the door says, most say 32psi and running
tires low eats fuel.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
^^^ I found your problem. :)
> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes, just
> the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50 start cycles,
> but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger rick secret de-coder
> ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice again?
Any number of things but I'm betting the gorrilla that towed your rig
wrapped a chain around one of the front ABS sensor wires and either
ripped it out or popped the connector. Check the front and back for
dangling wires.
Pulling the codes requries a OBD-II scantool. Your lucky in the fact
the 96 was the first year that used OBD-II.
> 2) a "starting" problem.
> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10 seconds,
> then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour drive.
> It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
Fuel pressure problem. One of two things will cause this.
1) fuel pressure regulator has failed
2) check valve in pump has failed
Checking either requires a special tool/hoses for stopping the fuel flow.
Never pinch the stock lines, it's bad for them.
In the mean time just turn the key on, wait till the pump stops buzzing,
then turn the key off, then on, buzzzz, then start.
> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil every
> 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
That's normal, but you could go to 5k on the oil without any worries. 3 is
a bit often unless your only driving short city trips.
20lbs sounds low. Read what the door says, most say 32psi and running
tires low eats fuel.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
05-05-2005, 07:33 PM
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 grand cherokee abs light
nunya did pass the time by typing:
> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
^^^ I found your problem. :)
> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes, just
> the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50 start cycles,
> but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger rick secret de-coder
> ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice again?
Any number of things but I'm betting the gorrilla that towed your rig
wrapped a chain around one of the front ABS sensor wires and either
ripped it out or popped the connector. Check the front and back for
dangling wires.
Pulling the codes requries a OBD-II scantool. Your lucky in the fact
the 96 was the first year that used OBD-II.
> 2) a "starting" problem.
> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10 seconds,
> then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour drive.
> It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
Fuel pressure problem. One of two things will cause this.
1) fuel pressure regulator has failed
2) check valve in pump has failed
Checking either requires a special tool/hoses for stopping the fuel flow.
Never pinch the stock lines, it's bad for them.
In the mean time just turn the key on, wait till the pump stops buzzing,
then turn the key off, then on, buzzzz, then start.
> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil every
> 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
That's normal, but you could go to 5k on the oil without any worries. 3 is
a bit often unless your only driving short city trips.
20lbs sounds low. Read what the door says, most say 32psi and running
tires low eats fuel.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
^^^ I found your problem. :)
> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes, just
> the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50 start cycles,
> but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger rick secret de-coder
> ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice again?
Any number of things but I'm betting the gorrilla that towed your rig
wrapped a chain around one of the front ABS sensor wires and either
ripped it out or popped the connector. Check the front and back for
dangling wires.
Pulling the codes requries a OBD-II scantool. Your lucky in the fact
the 96 was the first year that used OBD-II.
> 2) a "starting" problem.
> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10 seconds,
> then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour drive.
> It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
Fuel pressure problem. One of two things will cause this.
1) fuel pressure regulator has failed
2) check valve in pump has failed
Checking either requires a special tool/hoses for stopping the fuel flow.
Never pinch the stock lines, it's bad for them.
In the mean time just turn the key on, wait till the pump stops buzzing,
then turn the key off, then on, buzzzz, then start.
> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil every
> 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
That's normal, but you could go to 5k on the oil without any worries. 3 is
a bit often unless your only driving short city trips.
20lbs sounds low. Read what the door says, most say 32psi and running
tires low eats fuel.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
05-05-2005, 07:33 PM
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 grand cherokee abs light
nunya did pass the time by typing:
> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
^^^ I found your problem. :)
> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes, just
> the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50 start cycles,
> but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger rick secret de-coder
> ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice again?
Any number of things but I'm betting the gorrilla that towed your rig
wrapped a chain around one of the front ABS sensor wires and either
ripped it out or popped the connector. Check the front and back for
dangling wires.
Pulling the codes requries a OBD-II scantool. Your lucky in the fact
the 96 was the first year that used OBD-II.
> 2) a "starting" problem.
> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10 seconds,
> then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour drive.
> It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
Fuel pressure problem. One of two things will cause this.
1) fuel pressure regulator has failed
2) check valve in pump has failed
Checking either requires a special tool/hoses for stopping the fuel flow.
Never pinch the stock lines, it's bad for them.
In the mean time just turn the key on, wait till the pump stops buzzing,
then turn the key off, then on, buzzzz, then start.
> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil every
> 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
That's normal, but you could go to 5k on the oil without any worries. 3 is
a bit often unless your only driving short city trips.
20lbs sounds low. Read what the door says, most say 32psi and running
tires low eats fuel.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
^^^ I found your problem. :)
> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes, just
> the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50 start cycles,
> but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger rick secret de-coder
> ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice again?
Any number of things but I'm betting the gorrilla that towed your rig
wrapped a chain around one of the front ABS sensor wires and either
ripped it out or popped the connector. Check the front and back for
dangling wires.
Pulling the codes requries a OBD-II scantool. Your lucky in the fact
the 96 was the first year that used OBD-II.
> 2) a "starting" problem.
> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10 seconds,
> then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour drive.
> It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
Fuel pressure problem. One of two things will cause this.
1) fuel pressure regulator has failed
2) check valve in pump has failed
Checking either requires a special tool/hoses for stopping the fuel flow.
Never pinch the stock lines, it's bad for them.
In the mean time just turn the key on, wait till the pump stops buzzing,
then turn the key off, then on, buzzzz, then start.
> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil every
> 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
That's normal, but you could go to 5k on the oil without any worries. 3 is
a bit often unless your only driving short city trips.
20lbs sounds low. Read what the door says, most say 32psi and running
tires low eats fuel.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
05-05-2005, 08:04 PM
#46
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 grand cherokee abs light
resposes to various solutions.
the "go-rilla" used forks that span the rear wheels, no chains, all ABS
sensors are still attached.
a panic stop on a wet parking lot shows the ABS is engaging and working. (no
pull, pedal does pulse, wheels don't lock)
our local oreillys does a free scan of codes, there are none listed.
I've tried the leaving the key in the on position thing, i hear no pump
noise, and it doesn't start. only after the actual cranking will it start.
this happens regardless if warm, cold, sitting a minute, or an hour. or
overnight.
oh, thats 20 lbs of oil pressure, not tire pressure.
the windows are tinted too.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:J2yee.4505$Ri4.3353@okepread07...
> nunya did pass the time by typing:
>> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
> ^^^ I found your problem. :)
>
>> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
>> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes,
>> just
>> the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50 start
>> cycles,
>> but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger rick secret
>> de-coder
>> ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice again?
>
> Any number of things but I'm betting the gorrilla that towed your rig
> wrapped a chain around one of the front ABS sensor wires and either
> ripped it out or popped the connector. Check the front and back for
> dangling wires.
>
> Pulling the codes requries a OBD-II scantool. Your lucky in the fact
> the 96 was the first year that used OBD-II.
>
>> 2) a "starting" problem.
>> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10 seconds,
>> then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
>> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour
>> drive.
>> It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
>
> Fuel pressure problem. One of two things will cause this.
> 1) fuel pressure regulator has failed
> 2) check valve in pump has failed
> Checking either requires a special tool/hoses for stopping the fuel flow.
> Never pinch the stock lines, it's bad for them.
>
> In the mean time just turn the key on, wait till the pump stops buzzing,
> then turn the key off, then on, buzzzz, then start.
>
>> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil
>> every
>> 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
>
> That's normal, but you could go to 5k on the oil without any worries. 3
> is
> a bit often unless your only driving short city trips.
>
> 20lbs sounds low. Read what the door says, most say 32psi and running
> tires low eats fuel.
>
> --
> -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
>
>
>
the "go-rilla" used forks that span the rear wheels, no chains, all ABS
sensors are still attached.
a panic stop on a wet parking lot shows the ABS is engaging and working. (no
pull, pedal does pulse, wheels don't lock)
our local oreillys does a free scan of codes, there are none listed.
I've tried the leaving the key in the on position thing, i hear no pump
noise, and it doesn't start. only after the actual cranking will it start.
this happens regardless if warm, cold, sitting a minute, or an hour. or
overnight.
oh, thats 20 lbs of oil pressure, not tire pressure.
the windows are tinted too.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:J2yee.4505$Ri4.3353@okepread07...
> nunya did pass the time by typing:
>> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
> ^^^ I found your problem. :)
>
>> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
>> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes,
>> just
>> the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50 start
>> cycles,
>> but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger rick secret
>> de-coder
>> ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice again?
>
> Any number of things but I'm betting the gorrilla that towed your rig
> wrapped a chain around one of the front ABS sensor wires and either
> ripped it out or popped the connector. Check the front and back for
> dangling wires.
>
> Pulling the codes requries a OBD-II scantool. Your lucky in the fact
> the 96 was the first year that used OBD-II.
>
>> 2) a "starting" problem.
>> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10 seconds,
>> then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
>> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour
>> drive.
>> It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
>
> Fuel pressure problem. One of two things will cause this.
> 1) fuel pressure regulator has failed
> 2) check valve in pump has failed
> Checking either requires a special tool/hoses for stopping the fuel flow.
> Never pinch the stock lines, it's bad for them.
>
> In the mean time just turn the key on, wait till the pump stops buzzing,
> then turn the key off, then on, buzzzz, then start.
>
>> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil
>> every
>> 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
>
> That's normal, but you could go to 5k on the oil without any worries. 3
> is
> a bit often unless your only driving short city trips.
>
> 20lbs sounds low. Read what the door says, most say 32psi and running
> tires low eats fuel.
>
> --
> -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
>
>
>
05-05-2005, 08:04 PM
#47
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 grand cherokee abs light
resposes to various solutions.
the "go-rilla" used forks that span the rear wheels, no chains, all ABS
sensors are still attached.
a panic stop on a wet parking lot shows the ABS is engaging and working. (no
pull, pedal does pulse, wheels don't lock)
our local oreillys does a free scan of codes, there are none listed.
I've tried the leaving the key in the on position thing, i hear no pump
noise, and it doesn't start. only after the actual cranking will it start.
this happens regardless if warm, cold, sitting a minute, or an hour. or
overnight.
oh, thats 20 lbs of oil pressure, not tire pressure.
the windows are tinted too.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:J2yee.4505$Ri4.3353@okepread07...
> nunya did pass the time by typing:
>> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
> ^^^ I found your problem. :)
>
>> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
>> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes,
>> just
>> the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50 start
>> cycles,
>> but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger rick secret
>> de-coder
>> ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice again?
>
> Any number of things but I'm betting the gorrilla that towed your rig
> wrapped a chain around one of the front ABS sensor wires and either
> ripped it out or popped the connector. Check the front and back for
> dangling wires.
>
> Pulling the codes requries a OBD-II scantool. Your lucky in the fact
> the 96 was the first year that used OBD-II.
>
>> 2) a "starting" problem.
>> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10 seconds,
>> then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
>> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour
>> drive.
>> It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
>
> Fuel pressure problem. One of two things will cause this.
> 1) fuel pressure regulator has failed
> 2) check valve in pump has failed
> Checking either requires a special tool/hoses for stopping the fuel flow.
> Never pinch the stock lines, it's bad for them.
>
> In the mean time just turn the key on, wait till the pump stops buzzing,
> then turn the key off, then on, buzzzz, then start.
>
>> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil
>> every
>> 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
>
> That's normal, but you could go to 5k on the oil without any worries. 3
> is
> a bit often unless your only driving short city trips.
>
> 20lbs sounds low. Read what the door says, most say 32psi and running
> tires low eats fuel.
>
> --
> -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
>
>
>
the "go-rilla" used forks that span the rear wheels, no chains, all ABS
sensors are still attached.
a panic stop on a wet parking lot shows the ABS is engaging and working. (no
pull, pedal does pulse, wheels don't lock)
our local oreillys does a free scan of codes, there are none listed.
I've tried the leaving the key in the on position thing, i hear no pump
noise, and it doesn't start. only after the actual cranking will it start.
this happens regardless if warm, cold, sitting a minute, or an hour. or
overnight.
oh, thats 20 lbs of oil pressure, not tire pressure.
the windows are tinted too.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:J2yee.4505$Ri4.3353@okepread07...
> nunya did pass the time by typing:
>> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
> ^^^ I found your problem. :)
>
>> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
>> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes,
>> just
>> the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50 start
>> cycles,
>> but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger rick secret
>> de-coder
>> ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice again?
>
> Any number of things but I'm betting the gorrilla that towed your rig
> wrapped a chain around one of the front ABS sensor wires and either
> ripped it out or popped the connector. Check the front and back for
> dangling wires.
>
> Pulling the codes requries a OBD-II scantool. Your lucky in the fact
> the 96 was the first year that used OBD-II.
>
>> 2) a "starting" problem.
>> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10 seconds,
>> then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
>> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour
>> drive.
>> It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
>
> Fuel pressure problem. One of two things will cause this.
> 1) fuel pressure regulator has failed
> 2) check valve in pump has failed
> Checking either requires a special tool/hoses for stopping the fuel flow.
> Never pinch the stock lines, it's bad for them.
>
> In the mean time just turn the key on, wait till the pump stops buzzing,
> then turn the key off, then on, buzzzz, then start.
>
>> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil
>> every
>> 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
>
> That's normal, but you could go to 5k on the oil without any worries. 3
> is
> a bit often unless your only driving short city trips.
>
> 20lbs sounds low. Read what the door says, most say 32psi and running
> tires low eats fuel.
>
> --
> -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
>
>
>
05-05-2005, 08:04 PM
#48
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 grand cherokee abs light
resposes to various solutions.
the "go-rilla" used forks that span the rear wheels, no chains, all ABS
sensors are still attached.
a panic stop on a wet parking lot shows the ABS is engaging and working. (no
pull, pedal does pulse, wheels don't lock)
our local oreillys does a free scan of codes, there are none listed.
I've tried the leaving the key in the on position thing, i hear no pump
noise, and it doesn't start. only after the actual cranking will it start.
this happens regardless if warm, cold, sitting a minute, or an hour. or
overnight.
oh, thats 20 lbs of oil pressure, not tire pressure.
the windows are tinted too.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:J2yee.4505$Ri4.3353@okepread07...
> nunya did pass the time by typing:
>> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
> ^^^ I found your problem. :)
>
>> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
>> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes,
>> just
>> the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50 start
>> cycles,
>> but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger rick secret
>> de-coder
>> ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice again?
>
> Any number of things but I'm betting the gorrilla that towed your rig
> wrapped a chain around one of the front ABS sensor wires and either
> ripped it out or popped the connector. Check the front and back for
> dangling wires.
>
> Pulling the codes requries a OBD-II scantool. Your lucky in the fact
> the 96 was the first year that used OBD-II.
>
>> 2) a "starting" problem.
>> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10 seconds,
>> then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
>> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour
>> drive.
>> It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
>
> Fuel pressure problem. One of two things will cause this.
> 1) fuel pressure regulator has failed
> 2) check valve in pump has failed
> Checking either requires a special tool/hoses for stopping the fuel flow.
> Never pinch the stock lines, it's bad for them.
>
> In the mean time just turn the key on, wait till the pump stops buzzing,
> then turn the key off, then on, buzzzz, then start.
>
>> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil
>> every
>> 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
>
> That's normal, but you could go to 5k on the oil without any worries. 3
> is
> a bit often unless your only driving short city trips.
>
> 20lbs sounds low. Read what the door says, most say 32psi and running
> tires low eats fuel.
>
> --
> -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
>
>
>
the "go-rilla" used forks that span the rear wheels, no chains, all ABS
sensors are still attached.
a panic stop on a wet parking lot shows the ABS is engaging and working. (no
pull, pedal does pulse, wheels don't lock)
our local oreillys does a free scan of codes, there are none listed.
I've tried the leaving the key in the on position thing, i hear no pump
noise, and it doesn't start. only after the actual cranking will it start.
this happens regardless if warm, cold, sitting a minute, or an hour. or
overnight.
oh, thats 20 lbs of oil pressure, not tire pressure.
the windows are tinted too.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:J2yee.4505$Ri4.3353@okepread07...
> nunya did pass the time by typing:
>> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
> ^^^ I found your problem. :)
>
>> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
>> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes,
>> just
>> the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50 start
>> cycles,
>> but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger rick secret
>> de-coder
>> ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice again?
>
> Any number of things but I'm betting the gorrilla that towed your rig
> wrapped a chain around one of the front ABS sensor wires and either
> ripped it out or popped the connector. Check the front and back for
> dangling wires.
>
> Pulling the codes requries a OBD-II scantool. Your lucky in the fact
> the 96 was the first year that used OBD-II.
>
>> 2) a "starting" problem.
>> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10 seconds,
>> then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
>> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour
>> drive.
>> It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
>
> Fuel pressure problem. One of two things will cause this.
> 1) fuel pressure regulator has failed
> 2) check valve in pump has failed
> Checking either requires a special tool/hoses for stopping the fuel flow.
> Never pinch the stock lines, it's bad for them.
>
> In the mean time just turn the key on, wait till the pump stops buzzing,
> then turn the key off, then on, buzzzz, then start.
>
>> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil
>> every
>> 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
>
> That's normal, but you could go to 5k on the oil without any worries. 3
> is
> a bit often unless your only driving short city trips.
>
> 20lbs sounds low. Read what the door says, most say 32psi and running
> tires low eats fuel.
>
> --
> -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
>
>
>
05-05-2005, 08:04 PM
#49
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 grand cherokee abs light
resposes to various solutions.
the "go-rilla" used forks that span the rear wheels, no chains, all ABS
sensors are still attached.
a panic stop on a wet parking lot shows the ABS is engaging and working. (no
pull, pedal does pulse, wheels don't lock)
our local oreillys does a free scan of codes, there are none listed.
I've tried the leaving the key in the on position thing, i hear no pump
noise, and it doesn't start. only after the actual cranking will it start.
this happens regardless if warm, cold, sitting a minute, or an hour. or
overnight.
oh, thats 20 lbs of oil pressure, not tire pressure.
the windows are tinted too.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:J2yee.4505$Ri4.3353@okepread07...
> nunya did pass the time by typing:
>> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
> ^^^ I found your problem. :)
>
>> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
>> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes,
>> just
>> the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50 start
>> cycles,
>> but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger rick secret
>> de-coder
>> ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice again?
>
> Any number of things but I'm betting the gorrilla that towed your rig
> wrapped a chain around one of the front ABS sensor wires and either
> ripped it out or popped the connector. Check the front and back for
> dangling wires.
>
> Pulling the codes requries a OBD-II scantool. Your lucky in the fact
> the 96 was the first year that used OBD-II.
>
>> 2) a "starting" problem.
>> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10 seconds,
>> then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
>> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour
>> drive.
>> It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
>
> Fuel pressure problem. One of two things will cause this.
> 1) fuel pressure regulator has failed
> 2) check valve in pump has failed
> Checking either requires a special tool/hoses for stopping the fuel flow.
> Never pinch the stock lines, it's bad for them.
>
> In the mean time just turn the key on, wait till the pump stops buzzing,
> then turn the key off, then on, buzzzz, then start.
>
>> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil
>> every
>> 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
>
> That's normal, but you could go to 5k on the oil without any worries. 3
> is
> a bit often unless your only driving short city trips.
>
> 20lbs sounds low. Read what the door says, most say 32psi and running
> tires low eats fuel.
>
> --
> -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
>
>
>
the "go-rilla" used forks that span the rear wheels, no chains, all ABS
sensors are still attached.
a panic stop on a wet parking lot shows the ABS is engaging and working. (no
pull, pedal does pulse, wheels don't lock)
our local oreillys does a free scan of codes, there are none listed.
I've tried the leaving the key in the on position thing, i hear no pump
noise, and it doesn't start. only after the actual cranking will it start.
this happens regardless if warm, cold, sitting a minute, or an hour. or
overnight.
oh, thats 20 lbs of oil pressure, not tire pressure.
the windows are tinted too.
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:J2yee.4505$Ri4.3353@okepread07...
> nunya did pass the time by typing:
>> in line 6 2wd. 205k miles.automatic, its green.
> ^^^ I found your problem. :)
>
>> 1) a month ago, I was towed, (no mech. problem, lets just leave it at
>> that,ok?) and my ABS light came on when I picked the car up. no codes,
>> just
>> the light. In the course of normal operation, I've done the 50 start
>> cycles,
>> but the light is still on. Do I need to use some ranger rick secret
>> de-coder
>> ring? or do I have to do the chickens sacrifice again?
>
> Any number of things but I'm betting the gorrilla that towed your rig
> wrapped a chain around one of the front ABS sensor wires and either
> ripped it out or popped the connector. Check the front and back for
> dangling wires.
>
> Pulling the codes requries a OBD-II scantool. Your lucky in the fact
> the 96 was the first year that used OBD-II.
>
>> 2) a "starting" problem.
>> when I first crank, it will not start. I have to crank for 5-10 seconds,
>> then recrank, and it will start right up, no worries.
>> This happens when hot, cold, over night, after a 10 minute, or 2 hour
>> drive.
>> It is independant of weather, temp, or operational conditions.
>
> Fuel pressure problem. One of two things will cause this.
> 1) fuel pressure regulator has failed
> 2) check valve in pump has failed
> Checking either requires a special tool/hoses for stopping the fuel flow.
> Never pinch the stock lines, it's bad for them.
>
> In the mean time just turn the key on, wait till the pump stops buzzing,
> then turn the key off, then on, buzzzz, then start.
>
>> as an aside, I get 17-19 mpg city, 22-24 hwy on regular. I change oil
>> every
>> 3-4k, carries 20lbs of pressure, all in all, a great vehicle.
>
> That's normal, but you could go to 5k on the oil without any worries. 3
> is
> a bit often unless your only driving short city trips.
>
> 20lbs sounds low. Read what the door says, most say 32psi and running
> tires low eats fuel.
>
> --
> -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
>
>
>
05-05-2005, 08:35 PM
#50
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 96 grand cherokee abs light
Thanks Bill, that link says the same thing that I said.
There are TWO brake lights, one that indicates a failure of the braking
system - the parking brake is partially engaged, there is a fluid level
issue, or similar - and the other indicates the ABS system is inactive. If
the braking system failure light AND the ABS light are on together, then
there is a potentially serious issue that can make the vehicle unsafe to
drive. If the ABS light is on by itself, then the only consideration is that
the brakes can lock up during an emergency manuver.
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:427A7B93.5185F565@***.net...
> Yes, I remember you driving your Chevrolet truck around with it on,
> without a care in the world:
> http://www.indiacar.com/index2.asp?p.../techqa/10.htm
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>>
>> THE SKY IS NOT FALLING.
>>
>> Yes, it is good to take a closer look, no you will not kill anybody.
>>
>> ABS is a safety feature that one does not have to think that it is there
>> or
>> not, but if it is there one can behave differently than if it is not. The
>> ABS light being on means the feature is inactive, and the rest of the
>> braking system can be relied upon to work properly. ABS prevents wheel
>> lock
>> in an emergency, if the ABS light is on, then the wheels can lock in the
>> emergency, and you should be aware that this will happen.
There are TWO brake lights, one that indicates a failure of the braking
system - the parking brake is partially engaged, there is a fluid level
issue, or similar - and the other indicates the ABS system is inactive. If
the braking system failure light AND the ABS light are on together, then
there is a potentially serious issue that can make the vehicle unsafe to
drive. If the ABS light is on by itself, then the only consideration is that
the brakes can lock up during an emergency manuver.
"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:427A7B93.5185F565@***.net...
> Yes, I remember you driving your Chevrolet truck around with it on,
> without a care in the world:
> http://www.indiacar.com/index2.asp?p.../techqa/10.htm
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jeff Strickland wrote:
>>
>> THE SKY IS NOT FALLING.
>>
>> Yes, it is good to take a closer look, no you will not kill anybody.
>>
>> ABS is a safety feature that one does not have to think that it is there
>> or
>> not, but if it is there one can behave differently than if it is not. The
>> ABS light being on means the feature is inactive, and the rest of the
>> braking system can be relied upon to work properly. ABS prevents wheel
>> lock
>> in an emergency, if the ABS light is on, then the wheels can lock in the
>> emergency, and you should be aware that this will happen.
