TM did pass the time by typing:
> Well, the first thing I did was look around to see if anyone was watching me
> (lol), then I did make sure nothing was under the jeep. Your description of
> "pop-pop-pop" is what I experienced......thanks for the input..!!

You now have a couple of options.

1) fix it yourself
2) have a garage fix it for you

As for #1, it depends on how bad the CV joint is.
If it's toast you simply buy a new axle shaft and throw it in.

That's the easy way.

Your choice is to use a U joint unit for more strength
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/weak_link/
or the OEM CV unit.
(sorry, no link) It's easy though.

Basically you remove the wheel, hang the caliper out of
the way, take off the disc, remove the shield, take out three
bolts, and pull. Installation is the opposite of removal.

OEM (http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/)
AXLE SHAFT ASSY, w/Carden U-Joint, Right 93-98 $474.78
AXLE SHAFT ASSY, w/Carden U-Joint, Left 93-95 $295.20
AXLE SHAFT ASSY, w/CV Joint, Right 93-98 $614.18
AXLE SHAFT ASSY, w/CV Joint, Left 93-98 $560.88

Some price difference! Last time I did one it was much less $$$

Wonder what NAPA has?
Reman shafts for about $109 (with a $93 core charge)
Hell, the new one is $99 with no core charge. :/

Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Left Front - Remfd
Usually ships in 24 hours. NCV
9107 $109.00 Core $93.00

Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Right Front - Remfd
Usually ships in 24 hours. NCV
9108 $109.00 Core $93.00

Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Right Front - Remfd
Usually ships in 24 hours. NCV
9108 $109.00 Core $93.00

Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Left Front - New
Usually ships in 24 hours. NMD
948024 $99.99

w/ CV Joint Design Axle
Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Right Front - New
Usually ships in 24 hours. NMD
948025 $99.99

w/ CV Joint Design Axle


--
DougW

 

TM did pass the time by typing:
> Well, the first thing I did was look around to see if anyone was watching me
> (lol), then I did make sure nothing was under the jeep. Your description of
> "pop-pop-pop" is what I experienced......thanks for the input..!!

You now have a couple of options.

1) fix it yourself
2) have a garage fix it for you

As for #1, it depends on how bad the CV joint is.
If it's toast you simply buy a new axle shaft and throw it in.

That's the easy way.

Your choice is to use a U joint unit for more strength
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/weak_link/
or the OEM CV unit.
(sorry, no link) It's easy though.

Basically you remove the wheel, hang the caliper out of
the way, take off the disc, remove the shield, take out three
bolts, and pull. Installation is the opposite of removal.

OEM (http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/)
AXLE SHAFT ASSY, w/Carden U-Joint, Right 93-98 $474.78
AXLE SHAFT ASSY, w/Carden U-Joint, Left 93-95 $295.20
AXLE SHAFT ASSY, w/CV Joint, Right 93-98 $614.18
AXLE SHAFT ASSY, w/CV Joint, Left 93-98 $560.88

Some price difference! Last time I did one it was much less $$$

Wonder what NAPA has?
Reman shafts for about $109 (with a $93 core charge)
Hell, the new one is $99 with no core charge. :/

Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Left Front - Remfd
Usually ships in 24 hours. NCV
9107 $109.00 Core $93.00

Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Right Front - Remfd
Usually ships in 24 hours. NCV
9108 $109.00 Core $93.00

Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Right Front - Remfd
Usually ships in 24 hours. NCV
9108 $109.00 Core $93.00

Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Left Front - New
Usually ships in 24 hours. NMD
948024 $99.99

w/ CV Joint Design Axle
Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Right Front - New
Usually ships in 24 hours. NMD
948025 $99.99

w/ CV Joint Design Axle


--
DougW

 

TM did pass the time by typing:
> Well, the first thing I did was look around to see if anyone was watching me
> (lol), then I did make sure nothing was under the jeep. Your description of
> "pop-pop-pop" is what I experienced......thanks for the input..!!

You now have a couple of options.

1) fix it yourself
2) have a garage fix it for you

As for #1, it depends on how bad the CV joint is.
If it's toast you simply buy a new axle shaft and throw it in.

That's the easy way.

Your choice is to use a U joint unit for more strength
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/weak_link/
or the OEM CV unit.
(sorry, no link) It's easy though.

Basically you remove the wheel, hang the caliper out of
the way, take off the disc, remove the shield, take out three
bolts, and pull. Installation is the opposite of removal.

OEM (http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/)
AXLE SHAFT ASSY, w/Carden U-Joint, Right 93-98 $474.78
AXLE SHAFT ASSY, w/Carden U-Joint, Left 93-95 $295.20
AXLE SHAFT ASSY, w/CV Joint, Right 93-98 $614.18
AXLE SHAFT ASSY, w/CV Joint, Left 93-98 $560.88

Some price difference! Last time I did one it was much less $$$

Wonder what NAPA has?
Reman shafts for about $109 (with a $93 core charge)
Hell, the new one is $99 with no core charge. :/

Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Left Front - Remfd
Usually ships in 24 hours. NCV
9107 $109.00 Core $93.00

Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Right Front - Remfd
Usually ships in 24 hours. NCV
9108 $109.00 Core $93.00

Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Right Front - Remfd
Usually ships in 24 hours. NCV
9108 $109.00 Core $93.00

Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Left Front - New
Usually ships in 24 hours. NMD
948024 $99.99

w/ CV Joint Design Axle
Constant Velocity (CV) Driveshaft - Right Front - New
Usually ships in 24 hours. NMD
948025 $99.99

w/ CV Joint Design Axle


--
DougW

 

DougW did pass the time by typing:
> TM did pass the time by typing:
>> Well, the first thing I did was look around to see if anyone was watching me
>> (lol), then I did make sure nothing was under the jeep. Your description of
>> "pop-pop-pop" is what I experienced......thanks for the input..!!
>
> You now have a couple of options.

I should have said this can be simply a split boot and lack
of grease. That's why taking it apart, cleaning, and examining
is the first thing to do. Unless you just want to replace it and
be done.

I'm trying to find a website that had the step-by-step for refurbing
a CV joint but so far no luck. Taking one of those apart isn't exactly
easy. You have to be careful not to bend the internal cage and working
the bits in and out can be frustrating.

--
DougW

 

DougW did pass the time by typing:
> TM did pass the time by typing:
>> Well, the first thing I did was look around to see if anyone was watching me
>> (lol), then I did make sure nothing was under the jeep. Your description of
>> "pop-pop-pop" is what I experienced......thanks for the input..!!
>
> You now have a couple of options.

I should have said this can be simply a split boot and lack
of grease. That's why taking it apart, cleaning, and examining
is the first thing to do. Unless you just want to replace it and
be done.

I'm trying to find a website that had the step-by-step for refurbing
a CV joint but so far no luck. Taking one of those apart isn't exactly
easy. You have to be careful not to bend the internal cage and working
the bits in and out can be frustrating.

--
DougW

 

DougW did pass the time by typing:
> TM did pass the time by typing:
>> Well, the first thing I did was look around to see if anyone was watching me
>> (lol), then I did make sure nothing was under the jeep. Your description of
>> "pop-pop-pop" is what I experienced......thanks for the input..!!
>
> You now have a couple of options.

I should have said this can be simply a split boot and lack
of grease. That's why taking it apart, cleaning, and examining
is the first thing to do. Unless you just want to replace it and
be done.

I'm trying to find a website that had the step-by-step for refurbing
a CV joint but so far no luck. Taking one of those apart isn't exactly
easy. You have to be careful not to bend the internal cage and working
the bits in and out can be frustrating.

--
DougW

 

Thanks for all the research that you done for me...(half the battle as it
were).

Since I 'm not in dire need as of this moment, I plan on having a look-see
first. I did investigate a little more and the boots are not ripped/torn,
but with the high miles on the vehicle and knowing the previous owners
driving history, I tend to believe the CV's are shot.

Thanks again, and I will post something when I get to fix it.

T.

 

Thanks for all the research that you done for me...(half the battle as it
were).

Since I 'm not in dire need as of this moment, I plan on having a look-see
first. I did investigate a little more and the boots are not ripped/torn,
but with the high miles on the vehicle and knowing the previous owners
driving history, I tend to believe the CV's are shot.

Thanks again, and I will post something when I get to fix it.

T.

 

Thanks for all the research that you done for me...(half the battle as it
were).

Since I 'm not in dire need as of this moment, I plan on having a look-see
first. I did investigate a little more and the boots are not ripped/torn,
but with the high miles on the vehicle and knowing the previous owners
driving history, I tend to believe the CV's are shot.

Thanks again, and I will post something when I get to fix it.

T.

 

I never knew Grand Cherokee's(or any Jeep vehicles) used CV joints in
the axles. I thought those were only used on IFS vehicles. I know my
'92 XJ and '96 ZJ both have standard U-Joints.

In article <QLVfg.45893$mh.38808@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com>,
"TM" <tmosley@woh.rr.com> wrote:

> Thanks for all the research that you done for me...(half the battle as it
> were).
>
> Since I 'm not in dire need as of this moment, I plan on having a look-see
> first. I did investigate a little more and the boots are not ripped/torn,
> but with the high miles on the vehicle and knowing the previous owners
> driving history, I tend to believe the CV's are shot.
>
> Thanks again, and I will post something when I get to fix it.
>
> T.
>
>

--
o_o_o_o
/| ,[_____],
|ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)