The link below helped me as well, I just gor my ZJ and it took all of 5
minutes to change the CCV, I was told by a mechanic that I needed a new rear
main seal, and quoted 6 to 10 hours to fix.
As we were changing the CCV I realised it was probably a simple clean up
with carb cleaner and a wire as well. But at less than $10 CDN, I put the
new one in. You should use a Forked Pry bar and make sure the prongs are
long enough to fit around, you may break the plastic lip.

Paul
1995 ZJ 4.0 Limited.

BTW I changed the Valve cover Gasket as it was leaking too from the back.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:407B0B26.B2BAC641@sympatico.ca...
> The rear plastic tube is plugged up. A good soak in carb cleaner and a
> ream with a chunk of insulated wire fixed mine. 12 gauge automotive wire
> I think it was.
>
> The CCV grommet in the rear has a metered hole that can be cleaned out
> with a paper clip. If it has been blocked for a long time, sludge will
> have built up and the grommet might need to be taken out to clean under
> it or even the cover removed to really clean it out.
>
> The CCV is calibrated to use the air intake hose from the filter. If
> the grommets are leaking, too much air can get in and the CCV will not
> suck hard enough so again oil spits into the air filter.
>
> Same for a worn out oil filler cap.
>
> But if the back tube is plugged, it just spits oil out everywhere, fix
> that first and see if the leaks continue, if they do seal more up.
>
> Here is a link on it with some part numbers for new:
>
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...ltr/blowby.htm
>
> Mike
>
>
> Lee Ayrton wrote:
> >
> > Ah, thanks, you just opened the can of worms that I was looking at. My
> > `89 Cherokee 4.0 is blowing a respectable amount of oil into the filter
> > box, as well as around both valve cover grommets and the filler cap.
> > There's a small diameter hard tube that exits the rear third of the
valve
> > cover and enters the intake manifold. There's a large-bore hard tube
that
> > exits the front third of the valve cover and enters the rear of the
filter
> > box. Clearly something isn't venting correctly, but where should I
look?
> >
> > On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > > So I guess no matter what engine you have it does need a couple
> > > flushes. You should put an additive in, drive it a bit then change
the
> > > oil. Several times.
> > >
> > > I am concerned a bit with the PCV thing. If the mechanic doesn't know
> > > the difference between a PCV and CCV, well... Run fast...
> > >
> > > Jeep engines are really touchy about the PCV and CCV systems working
> > > right or they can blow massive amounts of oil into the air filters.
> > > Enough I know a few folks that got suckered into new engines only to
> > > have the same oil blow that only needed a $5.00 fix...
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Adonis wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I took my 94XJ to a local Jeep hobbyist install/repair shop with
some
> > > > blow-by in which I have, he explained that I need to flush my
engine, but
> > > > googling around suggests that it may be my PCV valve (which is
broken,
> > > > physically) but also when the guy stuck his finger into the filler
cap there
> > > > was a very good amount of sludge, he wants to charge 40$ for an oil
change
> > > > to flush out the contaminants this week and to return next week to
flush it
> > > > again for another 40$, as well as he will replace the PCV, should
this be a
> > > > go? or should I go somewhere else?
> > > >
> > > > Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Adonis
> > >

 

The link below helped me as well, I just gor my ZJ and it took all of 5
minutes to change the CCV, I was told by a mechanic that I needed a new rear
main seal, and quoted 6 to 10 hours to fix.
As we were changing the CCV I realised it was probably a simple clean up
with carb cleaner and a wire as well. But at less than $10 CDN, I put the
new one in. You should use a Forked Pry bar and make sure the prongs are
long enough to fit around, you may break the plastic lip.

Paul
1995 ZJ 4.0 Limited.

BTW I changed the Valve cover Gasket as it was leaking too from the back.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:407B0B26.B2BAC641@sympatico.ca...
> The rear plastic tube is plugged up. A good soak in carb cleaner and a
> ream with a chunk of insulated wire fixed mine. 12 gauge automotive wire
> I think it was.
>
> The CCV grommet in the rear has a metered hole that can be cleaned out
> with a paper clip. If it has been blocked for a long time, sludge will
> have built up and the grommet might need to be taken out to clean under
> it or even the cover removed to really clean it out.
>
> The CCV is calibrated to use the air intake hose from the filter. If
> the grommets are leaking, too much air can get in and the CCV will not
> suck hard enough so again oil spits into the air filter.
>
> Same for a worn out oil filler cap.
>
> But if the back tube is plugged, it just spits oil out everywhere, fix
> that first and see if the leaks continue, if they do seal more up.
>
> Here is a link on it with some part numbers for new:
>
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...ltr/blowby.htm
>
> Mike
>
>
> Lee Ayrton wrote:
> >
> > Ah, thanks, you just opened the can of worms that I was looking at. My
> > `89 Cherokee 4.0 is blowing a respectable amount of oil into the filter
> > box, as well as around both valve cover grommets and the filler cap.
> > There's a small diameter hard tube that exits the rear third of the
valve
> > cover and enters the intake manifold. There's a large-bore hard tube
that
> > exits the front third of the valve cover and enters the rear of the
filter
> > box. Clearly something isn't venting correctly, but where should I
look?
> >
> > On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > > So I guess no matter what engine you have it does need a couple
> > > flushes. You should put an additive in, drive it a bit then change
the
> > > oil. Several times.
> > >
> > > I am concerned a bit with the PCV thing. If the mechanic doesn't know
> > > the difference between a PCV and CCV, well... Run fast...
> > >
> > > Jeep engines are really touchy about the PCV and CCV systems working
> > > right or they can blow massive amounts of oil into the air filters.
> > > Enough I know a few folks that got suckered into new engines only to
> > > have the same oil blow that only needed a $5.00 fix...
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Adonis wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I took my 94XJ to a local Jeep hobbyist install/repair shop with
some
> > > > blow-by in which I have, he explained that I need to flush my
engine, but
> > > > googling around suggests that it may be my PCV valve (which is
broken,
> > > > physically) but also when the guy stuck his finger into the filler
cap there
> > > > was a very good amount of sludge, he wants to charge 40$ for an oil
change
> > > > to flush out the contaminants this week and to return next week to
flush it
> > > > again for another 40$, as well as he will replace the PCV, should
this be a
> > > > go? or should I go somewhere else?
> > > >
> > > > Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Adonis
> > >

 

The link below helped me as well, I just gor my ZJ and it took all of 5
minutes to change the CCV, I was told by a mechanic that I needed a new rear
main seal, and quoted 6 to 10 hours to fix.
As we were changing the CCV I realised it was probably a simple clean up
with carb cleaner and a wire as well. But at less than $10 CDN, I put the
new one in. You should use a Forked Pry bar and make sure the prongs are
long enough to fit around, you may break the plastic lip.

Paul
1995 ZJ 4.0 Limited.

BTW I changed the Valve cover Gasket as it was leaking too from the back.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:407B0B26.B2BAC641@sympatico.ca...
> The rear plastic tube is plugged up. A good soak in carb cleaner and a
> ream with a chunk of insulated wire fixed mine. 12 gauge automotive wire
> I think it was.
>
> The CCV grommet in the rear has a metered hole that can be cleaned out
> with a paper clip. If it has been blocked for a long time, sludge will
> have built up and the grommet might need to be taken out to clean under
> it or even the cover removed to really clean it out.
>
> The CCV is calibrated to use the air intake hose from the filter. If
> the grommets are leaking, too much air can get in and the CCV will not
> suck hard enough so again oil spits into the air filter.
>
> Same for a worn out oil filler cap.
>
> But if the back tube is plugged, it just spits oil out everywhere, fix
> that first and see if the leaks continue, if they do seal more up.
>
> Here is a link on it with some part numbers for new:
>
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...ltr/blowby.htm
>
> Mike
>
>
> Lee Ayrton wrote:
> >
> > Ah, thanks, you just opened the can of worms that I was looking at. My
> > `89 Cherokee 4.0 is blowing a respectable amount of oil into the filter
> > box, as well as around both valve cover grommets and the filler cap.
> > There's a small diameter hard tube that exits the rear third of the
valve
> > cover and enters the intake manifold. There's a large-bore hard tube
that
> > exits the front third of the valve cover and enters the rear of the
filter
> > box. Clearly something isn't venting correctly, but where should I
look?
> >
> > On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > > So I guess no matter what engine you have it does need a couple
> > > flushes. You should put an additive in, drive it a bit then change
the
> > > oil. Several times.
> > >
> > > I am concerned a bit with the PCV thing. If the mechanic doesn't know
> > > the difference between a PCV and CCV, well... Run fast...
> > >
> > > Jeep engines are really touchy about the PCV and CCV systems working
> > > right or they can blow massive amounts of oil into the air filters.
> > > Enough I know a few folks that got suckered into new engines only to
> > > have the same oil blow that only needed a $5.00 fix...
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Adonis wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I took my 94XJ to a local Jeep hobbyist install/repair shop with
some
> > > > blow-by in which I have, he explained that I need to flush my
engine, but
> > > > googling around suggests that it may be my PCV valve (which is
broken,
> > > > physically) but also when the guy stuck his finger into the filler
cap there
> > > > was a very good amount of sludge, he wants to charge 40$ for an oil
change
> > > > to flush out the contaminants this week and to return next week to
flush it
> > > > again for another 40$, as well as he will replace the PCV, should
this be a
> > > > go? or should I go somewhere else?
> > > >
> > > > Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Adonis
> > >

 

The grommets on my `89 4.0 were shot as is the connector to the filter box
so I went looking for them locally. I hit almost every parts house in
town before I happened on the friendly guy at the NAPA store. Now, this
is why mass retailers like AutoZone aren't always the better place to buy
parts (leaving aside the question of quality for now): AutoZone hires
pimple-faced kids who are completely lost if it doesn't pop up for them on
a computer screen. "I don't even know where the paper catalogues are" is
not an infrequent whine (they're right by your left foot, ya twit). I
often look up my own parts at the local AZ and tell them what I need.

So the guy at NAPA listens to what I'm describing and says "I know that we
can get them, but the soft parts are molded onto the hard tubing and
they're called something utterly wrong in the catalogue."

He checked all the likely index entries in the Balkamp catalogue: Valve
cover grommets, PCV, CCV, emissions, vapor, nada. He finally found them
by paging through the catalogue, knowing what it looked like. The parts
fit a range of years for the 4.0 (something like `87 - `92) and there's
three of them: "Left Vacuum Assembly", "Right Vacuum Assembly" and the
small-bore tube from the rear to the manifold, whose name escapes me.
They _are_ _not_ _indexed_ in the current Balkamp catalogue, but for
those who will eventually need to replace these parts here's the
Balkamp part numbers 715-1365 (rear) 715-1366 (left) 715-1367 (right).
Total cost locally for all three parts was US$41.

Thanks again Mike for the advice. I'll be replacing those parts
this afternoon.


On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Mike Romain wrote:

> The rear plastic tube is plugged up. A good soak in carb cleaner and a
> ream with a chunk of insulated wire fixed mine. 12 gauge automotive wire
> I think it was.
>
> The CCV grommet in the rear has a metered hole that can be cleaned out
> with a paper clip. If it has been blocked for a long time, sludge will
> have built up and the grommet might need to be taken out to clean under
> it or even the cover removed to really clean it out.
>
> The CCV is calibrated to use the air intake hose from the filter. If
> the grommets are leaking, too much air can get in and the CCV will not
> suck hard enough so again oil spits into the air filter.
>
> Same for a worn out oil filler cap.
>
> But if the back tube is plugged, it just spits oil out everywhere, fix
> that first and see if the leaks continue, if they do seal more up.
>
> Here is a link on it with some part numbers for new:
>
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...ltr/blowby.htm
>
> Mike
>
>
> Lee Ayrton wrote:
> >
> > Ah, thanks, you just opened the can of worms that I was looking at. My
> > `89 Cherokee 4.0 is blowing a respectable amount of oil into the filter
> > box, as well as around both valve cover grommets and the filler cap.
> > There's a small diameter hard tube that exits the rear third of the valve
> > cover and enters the intake manifold. There's a large-bore hard tube that
> > exits the front third of the valve cover and enters the rear of the filter
> > box. Clearly something isn't venting correctly, but where should I look?
> >
> > On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > > So I guess no matter what engine you have it does need a couple
> > > flushes. You should put an additive in, drive it a bit then change the
> > > oil. Several times.
> > >
> > > I am concerned a bit with the PCV thing. If the mechanic doesn't know
> > > the difference between a PCV and CCV, well... Run fast...
> > >
> > > Jeep engines are really touchy about the PCV and CCV systems working
> > > right or they can blow massive amounts of oil into the air filters.
> > > Enough I know a few folks that got suckered into new engines only to
> > > have the same oil blow that only needed a $5.00 fix...
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Adonis wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I took my 94XJ to a local Jeep hobbyist install/repair shop with some
> > > > blow-by in which I have, he explained that I need to flush my engine, but
> > > > googling around suggests that it may be my PCV valve (which is broken,
> > > > physically) but also when the guy stuck his finger into the filler cap there
> > > > was a very good amount of sludge, he wants to charge 40$ for an oil change
> > > > to flush out the contaminants this week and to return next week to flush it
> > > > again for another 40$, as well as he will replace the PCV, should this be a
> > > > go? or should I go somewhere else?
> > > >
> > > > Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Adonis
> > >
>

 

The grommets on my `89 4.0 were shot as is the connector to the filter box
so I went looking for them locally. I hit almost every parts house in
town before I happened on the friendly guy at the NAPA store. Now, this
is why mass retailers like AutoZone aren't always the better place to buy
parts (leaving aside the question of quality for now): AutoZone hires
pimple-faced kids who are completely lost if it doesn't pop up for them on
a computer screen. "I don't even know where the paper catalogues are" is
not an infrequent whine (they're right by your left foot, ya twit). I
often look up my own parts at the local AZ and tell them what I need.

So the guy at NAPA listens to what I'm describing and says "I know that we
can get them, but the soft parts are molded onto the hard tubing and
they're called something utterly wrong in the catalogue."

He checked all the likely index entries in the Balkamp catalogue: Valve
cover grommets, PCV, CCV, emissions, vapor, nada. He finally found them
by paging through the catalogue, knowing what it looked like. The parts
fit a range of years for the 4.0 (something like `87 - `92) and there's
three of them: "Left Vacuum Assembly", "Right Vacuum Assembly" and the
small-bore tube from the rear to the manifold, whose name escapes me.
They _are_ _not_ _indexed_ in the current Balkamp catalogue, but for
those who will eventually need to replace these parts here's the
Balkamp part numbers 715-1365 (rear) 715-1366 (left) 715-1367 (right).
Total cost locally for all three parts was US$41.

Thanks again Mike for the advice. I'll be replacing those parts
this afternoon.


On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Mike Romain wrote:

> The rear plastic tube is plugged up. A good soak in carb cleaner and a
> ream with a chunk of insulated wire fixed mine. 12 gauge automotive wire
> I think it was.
>
> The CCV grommet in the rear has a metered hole that can be cleaned out
> with a paper clip. If it has been blocked for a long time, sludge will
> have built up and the grommet might need to be taken out to clean under
> it or even the cover removed to really clean it out.
>
> The CCV is calibrated to use the air intake hose from the filter. If
> the grommets are leaking, too much air can get in and the CCV will not
> suck hard enough so again oil spits into the air filter.
>
> Same for a worn out oil filler cap.
>
> But if the back tube is plugged, it just spits oil out everywhere, fix
> that first and see if the leaks continue, if they do seal more up.
>
> Here is a link on it with some part numbers for new:
>
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...ltr/blowby.htm
>
> Mike
>
>
> Lee Ayrton wrote:
> >
> > Ah, thanks, you just opened the can of worms that I was looking at. My
> > `89 Cherokee 4.0 is blowing a respectable amount of oil into the filter
> > box, as well as around both valve cover grommets and the filler cap.
> > There's a small diameter hard tube that exits the rear third of the valve
> > cover and enters the intake manifold. There's a large-bore hard tube that
> > exits the front third of the valve cover and enters the rear of the filter
> > box. Clearly something isn't venting correctly, but where should I look?
> >
> > On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > > So I guess no matter what engine you have it does need a couple
> > > flushes. You should put an additive in, drive it a bit then change the
> > > oil. Several times.
> > >
> > > I am concerned a bit with the PCV thing. If the mechanic doesn't know
> > > the difference between a PCV and CCV, well... Run fast...
> > >
> > > Jeep engines are really touchy about the PCV and CCV systems working
> > > right or they can blow massive amounts of oil into the air filters.
> > > Enough I know a few folks that got suckered into new engines only to
> > > have the same oil blow that only needed a $5.00 fix...
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Adonis wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I took my 94XJ to a local Jeep hobbyist install/repair shop with some
> > > > blow-by in which I have, he explained that I need to flush my engine, but
> > > > googling around suggests that it may be my PCV valve (which is broken,
> > > > physically) but also when the guy stuck his finger into the filler cap there
> > > > was a very good amount of sludge, he wants to charge 40$ for an oil change
> > > > to flush out the contaminants this week and to return next week to flush it
> > > > again for another 40$, as well as he will replace the PCV, should this be a
> > > > go? or should I go somewhere else?
> > > >
> > > > Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Adonis
> > >
>

 

The grommets on my `89 4.0 were shot as is the connector to the filter box
so I went looking for them locally. I hit almost every parts house in
town before I happened on the friendly guy at the NAPA store. Now, this
is why mass retailers like AutoZone aren't always the better place to buy
parts (leaving aside the question of quality for now): AutoZone hires
pimple-faced kids who are completely lost if it doesn't pop up for them on
a computer screen. "I don't even know where the paper catalogues are" is
not an infrequent whine (they're right by your left foot, ya twit). I
often look up my own parts at the local AZ and tell them what I need.

So the guy at NAPA listens to what I'm describing and says "I know that we
can get them, but the soft parts are molded onto the hard tubing and
they're called something utterly wrong in the catalogue."

He checked all the likely index entries in the Balkamp catalogue: Valve
cover grommets, PCV, CCV, emissions, vapor, nada. He finally found them
by paging through the catalogue, knowing what it looked like. The parts
fit a range of years for the 4.0 (something like `87 - `92) and there's
three of them: "Left Vacuum Assembly", "Right Vacuum Assembly" and the
small-bore tube from the rear to the manifold, whose name escapes me.
They _are_ _not_ _indexed_ in the current Balkamp catalogue, but for
those who will eventually need to replace these parts here's the
Balkamp part numbers 715-1365 (rear) 715-1366 (left) 715-1367 (right).
Total cost locally for all three parts was US$41.

Thanks again Mike for the advice. I'll be replacing those parts
this afternoon.


On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Mike Romain wrote:

> The rear plastic tube is plugged up. A good soak in carb cleaner and a
> ream with a chunk of insulated wire fixed mine. 12 gauge automotive wire
> I think it was.
>
> The CCV grommet in the rear has a metered hole that can be cleaned out
> with a paper clip. If it has been blocked for a long time, sludge will
> have built up and the grommet might need to be taken out to clean under
> it or even the cover removed to really clean it out.
>
> The CCV is calibrated to use the air intake hose from the filter. If
> the grommets are leaking, too much air can get in and the CCV will not
> suck hard enough so again oil spits into the air filter.
>
> Same for a worn out oil filler cap.
>
> But if the back tube is plugged, it just spits oil out everywhere, fix
> that first and see if the leaks continue, if they do seal more up.
>
> Here is a link on it with some part numbers for new:
>
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...ltr/blowby.htm
>
> Mike
>
>
> Lee Ayrton wrote:
> >
> > Ah, thanks, you just opened the can of worms that I was looking at. My
> > `89 Cherokee 4.0 is blowing a respectable amount of oil into the filter
> > box, as well as around both valve cover grommets and the filler cap.
> > There's a small diameter hard tube that exits the rear third of the valve
> > cover and enters the intake manifold. There's a large-bore hard tube that
> > exits the front third of the valve cover and enters the rear of the filter
> > box. Clearly something isn't venting correctly, but where should I look?
> >
> > On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > > So I guess no matter what engine you have it does need a couple
> > > flushes. You should put an additive in, drive it a bit then change the
> > > oil. Several times.
> > >
> > > I am concerned a bit with the PCV thing. If the mechanic doesn't know
> > > the difference between a PCV and CCV, well... Run fast...
> > >
> > > Jeep engines are really touchy about the PCV and CCV systems working
> > > right or they can blow massive amounts of oil into the air filters.
> > > Enough I know a few folks that got suckered into new engines only to
> > > have the same oil blow that only needed a $5.00 fix...
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Adonis wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I took my 94XJ to a local Jeep hobbyist install/repair shop with some
> > > > blow-by in which I have, he explained that I need to flush my engine, but
> > > > googling around suggests that it may be my PCV valve (which is broken,
> > > > physically) but also when the guy stuck his finger into the filler cap there
> > > > was a very good amount of sludge, he wants to charge 40$ for an oil change
> > > > to flush out the contaminants this week and to return next week to flush it
> > > > again for another 40$, as well as he will replace the PCV, should this be a
> > > > go? or should I go somewhere else?
> > > >
> > > > Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Adonis
> > >
>

 

The grommets on my `89 4.0 were shot as is the connector to the filter box
so I went looking for them locally. I hit almost every parts house in
town before I happened on the friendly guy at the NAPA store. Now, this
is why mass retailers like AutoZone aren't always the better place to buy
parts (leaving aside the question of quality for now): AutoZone hires
pimple-faced kids who are completely lost if it doesn't pop up for them on
a computer screen. "I don't even know where the paper catalogues are" is
not an infrequent whine (they're right by your left foot, ya twit). I
often look up my own parts at the local AZ and tell them what I need.

So the guy at NAPA listens to what I'm describing and says "I know that we
can get them, but the soft parts are molded onto the hard tubing and
they're called something utterly wrong in the catalogue."

He checked all the likely index entries in the Balkamp catalogue: Valve
cover grommets, PCV, CCV, emissions, vapor, nada. He finally found them
by paging through the catalogue, knowing what it looked like. The parts
fit a range of years for the 4.0 (something like `87 - `92) and there's
three of them: "Left Vacuum Assembly", "Right Vacuum Assembly" and the
small-bore tube from the rear to the manifold, whose name escapes me.
They _are_ _not_ _indexed_ in the current Balkamp catalogue, but for
those who will eventually need to replace these parts here's the
Balkamp part numbers 715-1365 (rear) 715-1366 (left) 715-1367 (right).
Total cost locally for all three parts was US$41.

Thanks again Mike for the advice. I'll be replacing those parts
this afternoon.


On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Mike Romain wrote:

> The rear plastic tube is plugged up. A good soak in carb cleaner and a
> ream with a chunk of insulated wire fixed mine. 12 gauge automotive wire
> I think it was.
>
> The CCV grommet in the rear has a metered hole that can be cleaned out
> with a paper clip. If it has been blocked for a long time, sludge will
> have built up and the grommet might need to be taken out to clean under
> it or even the cover removed to really clean it out.
>
> The CCV is calibrated to use the air intake hose from the filter. If
> the grommets are leaking, too much air can get in and the CCV will not
> suck hard enough so again oil spits into the air filter.
>
> Same for a worn out oil filler cap.
>
> But if the back tube is plugged, it just spits oil out everywhere, fix
> that first and see if the leaks continue, if they do seal more up.
>
> Here is a link on it with some part numbers for new:
>
> http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...ltr/blowby.htm
>
> Mike
>
>
> Lee Ayrton wrote:
> >
> > Ah, thanks, you just opened the can of worms that I was looking at. My
> > `89 Cherokee 4.0 is blowing a respectable amount of oil into the filter
> > box, as well as around both valve cover grommets and the filler cap.
> > There's a small diameter hard tube that exits the rear third of the valve
> > cover and enters the intake manifold. There's a large-bore hard tube that
> > exits the front third of the valve cover and enters the rear of the filter
> > box. Clearly something isn't venting correctly, but where should I look?
> >
> > On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
> >
> > > So I guess no matter what engine you have it does need a couple
> > > flushes. You should put an additive in, drive it a bit then change the
> > > oil. Several times.
> > >
> > > I am concerned a bit with the PCV thing. If the mechanic doesn't know
> > > the difference between a PCV and CCV, well... Run fast...
> > >
> > > Jeep engines are really touchy about the PCV and CCV systems working
> > > right or they can blow massive amounts of oil into the air filters.
> > > Enough I know a few folks that got suckered into new engines only to
> > > have the same oil blow that only needed a $5.00 fix...
> > >
> > > Mike
> > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > > Adonis wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I took my 94XJ to a local Jeep hobbyist install/repair shop with some
> > > > blow-by in which I have, he explained that I need to flush my engine, but
> > > > googling around suggests that it may be my PCV valve (which is broken,
> > > > physically) but also when the guy stuck his finger into the filler cap there
> > > > was a very good amount of sludge, he wants to charge 40$ for an oil change
> > > > to flush out the contaminants this week and to return next week to flush it
> > > > again for another 40$, as well as he will replace the PCV, should this be a
> > > > go? or should I go somewhere else?
> > > >
> > > > Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Adonis
> > >
>

 

The local Jeep dealer knew exactly what I was looking for, pulled it
off the shelf and I was on my way for under $25. There's also
something to be said for checking with Jeep in the process - sometimes
they surprise you!

On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 15:15:13 UTC Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote:

>
> The grommets on my `89 4.0 were shot as is the connector to the filter box
> so I went looking for them locally. I hit almost every parts house in
> town before I happened on the friendly guy at the NAPA store. Now, this
> is why mass retailers like AutoZone aren't always the better place to buy
> parts (leaving aside the question of quality for now): AutoZone hires
> pimple-faced kids who are completely lost if it doesn't pop up for them on
> a computer screen. "I don't even know where the paper catalogues are" is
> not an infrequent whine (they're right by your left foot, ya twit). I
> often look up my own parts at the local AZ and tell them what I need.
>
> So the guy at NAPA listens to what I'm describing and says "I know that we
> can get them, but the soft parts are molded onto the hard tubing and
> they're called something utterly wrong in the catalogue."
>
> He checked all the likely index entries in the Balkamp catalogue: Valve
> cover grommets, PCV, CCV, emissions, vapor, nada. He finally found them
> by paging through the catalogue, knowing what it looked like. The parts
> fit a range of years for the 4.0 (something like `87 - `92) and there's
> three of them: "Left Vacuum Assembly", "Right Vacuum Assembly" and the
> small-bore tube from the rear to the manifold, whose name escapes me.
> They _are_ _not_ _indexed_ in the current Balkamp catalogue, but for
> those who will eventually need to replace these parts here's the
> Balkamp part numbers 715-1365 (rear) 715-1366 (left) 715-1367 (right).
> Total cost locally for all three parts was US$41.
>
> Thanks again Mike for the advice. I'll be replacing those parts
> this afternoon.
>
>
> On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > The rear plastic tube is plugged up. A good soak in carb cleaner and a
> > ream with a chunk of insulated wire fixed mine. 12 gauge automotive wire
> > I think it was.
> >
> > The CCV grommet in the rear has a metered hole that can be cleaned out
> > with a paper clip. If it has been blocked for a long time, sludge will
> > have built up and the grommet might need to be taken out to clean under
> > it or even the cover removed to really clean it out.
> >
> > The CCV is calibrated to use the air intake hose from the filter. If
> > the grommets are leaking, too much air can get in and the CCV will not
> > suck hard enough so again oil spits into the air filter.
> >
> > Same for a worn out oil filler cap.
> >
> > But if the back tube is plugged, it just spits oil out everywhere, fix
> > that first and see if the leaks continue, if they do seal more up.
> >
> > Here is a link on it with some part numbers for new:
> >
> > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...ltr/blowby.htm
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > Lee Ayrton wrote:
> > >
> > > Ah, thanks, you just opened the can of worms that I was looking at. My
> > > `89 Cherokee 4.0 is blowing a respectable amount of oil into the filter
> > > box, as well as around both valve cover grommets and the filler cap.
> > > There's a small diameter hard tube that exits the rear third of the valve
> > > cover and enters the intake manifold. There's a large-bore hard tube that
> > > exits the front third of the valve cover and enters the rear of the filter
> > > box. Clearly something isn't venting correctly, but where should I look?
> > >
> > > On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
> > >
> > > > So I guess no matter what engine you have it does need a couple
> > > > flushes. You should put an additive in, drive it a bit then change the
> > > > oil. Several times.
> > > >
> > > > I am concerned a bit with the PCV thing. If the mechanic doesn't know
> > > > the difference between a PCV and CCV, well... Run fast...
> > > >
> > > > Jeep engines are really touchy about the PCV and CCV systems working
> > > > right or they can blow massive amounts of oil into the air filters.
> > > > Enough I know a few folks that got suckered into new engines only to
> > > > have the same oil blow that only needed a $5.00 fix...
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > Adonis wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I took my 94XJ to a local Jeep hobbyist install/repair shop with some
> > > > > blow-by in which I have, he explained that I need to flush my engine, but
> > > > > googling around suggests that it may be my PCV valve (which is broken,
> > > > > physically) but also when the guy stuck his finger into the filler cap there
> > > > > was a very good amount of sludge, he wants to charge 40$ for an oil change
> > > > > to flush out the contaminants this week and to return next week to flush it
> > > > > again for another 40$, as well as he will replace the PCV, should this be a
> > > > > go? or should I go somewhere else?
> > > > >
> > > > > Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
> > > > >
> > > > > Adonis
> > > >
> >


--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

 

The local Jeep dealer knew exactly what I was looking for, pulled it
off the shelf and I was on my way for under $25. There's also
something to be said for checking with Jeep in the process - sometimes
they surprise you!

On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 15:15:13 UTC Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote:

>
> The grommets on my `89 4.0 were shot as is the connector to the filter box
> so I went looking for them locally. I hit almost every parts house in
> town before I happened on the friendly guy at the NAPA store. Now, this
> is why mass retailers like AutoZone aren't always the better place to buy
> parts (leaving aside the question of quality for now): AutoZone hires
> pimple-faced kids who are completely lost if it doesn't pop up for them on
> a computer screen. "I don't even know where the paper catalogues are" is
> not an infrequent whine (they're right by your left foot, ya twit). I
> often look up my own parts at the local AZ and tell them what I need.
>
> So the guy at NAPA listens to what I'm describing and says "I know that we
> can get them, but the soft parts are molded onto the hard tubing and
> they're called something utterly wrong in the catalogue."
>
> He checked all the likely index entries in the Balkamp catalogue: Valve
> cover grommets, PCV, CCV, emissions, vapor, nada. He finally found them
> by paging through the catalogue, knowing what it looked like. The parts
> fit a range of years for the 4.0 (something like `87 - `92) and there's
> three of them: "Left Vacuum Assembly", "Right Vacuum Assembly" and the
> small-bore tube from the rear to the manifold, whose name escapes me.
> They _are_ _not_ _indexed_ in the current Balkamp catalogue, but for
> those who will eventually need to replace these parts here's the
> Balkamp part numbers 715-1365 (rear) 715-1366 (left) 715-1367 (right).
> Total cost locally for all three parts was US$41.
>
> Thanks again Mike for the advice. I'll be replacing those parts
> this afternoon.
>
>
> On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > The rear plastic tube is plugged up. A good soak in carb cleaner and a
> > ream with a chunk of insulated wire fixed mine. 12 gauge automotive wire
> > I think it was.
> >
> > The CCV grommet in the rear has a metered hole that can be cleaned out
> > with a paper clip. If it has been blocked for a long time, sludge will
> > have built up and the grommet might need to be taken out to clean under
> > it or even the cover removed to really clean it out.
> >
> > The CCV is calibrated to use the air intake hose from the filter. If
> > the grommets are leaking, too much air can get in and the CCV will not
> > suck hard enough so again oil spits into the air filter.
> >
> > Same for a worn out oil filler cap.
> >
> > But if the back tube is plugged, it just spits oil out everywhere, fix
> > that first and see if the leaks continue, if they do seal more up.
> >
> > Here is a link on it with some part numbers for new:
> >
> > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...ltr/blowby.htm
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > Lee Ayrton wrote:
> > >
> > > Ah, thanks, you just opened the can of worms that I was looking at. My
> > > `89 Cherokee 4.0 is blowing a respectable amount of oil into the filter
> > > box, as well as around both valve cover grommets and the filler cap.
> > > There's a small diameter hard tube that exits the rear third of the valve
> > > cover and enters the intake manifold. There's a large-bore hard tube that
> > > exits the front third of the valve cover and enters the rear of the filter
> > > box. Clearly something isn't venting correctly, but where should I look?
> > >
> > > On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
> > >
> > > > So I guess no matter what engine you have it does need a couple
> > > > flushes. You should put an additive in, drive it a bit then change the
> > > > oil. Several times.
> > > >
> > > > I am concerned a bit with the PCV thing. If the mechanic doesn't know
> > > > the difference between a PCV and CCV, well... Run fast...
> > > >
> > > > Jeep engines are really touchy about the PCV and CCV systems working
> > > > right or they can blow massive amounts of oil into the air filters.
> > > > Enough I know a few folks that got suckered into new engines only to
> > > > have the same oil blow that only needed a $5.00 fix...
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > Adonis wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I took my 94XJ to a local Jeep hobbyist install/repair shop with some
> > > > > blow-by in which I have, he explained that I need to flush my engine, but
> > > > > googling around suggests that it may be my PCV valve (which is broken,
> > > > > physically) but also when the guy stuck his finger into the filler cap there
> > > > > was a very good amount of sludge, he wants to charge 40$ for an oil change
> > > > > to flush out the contaminants this week and to return next week to flush it
> > > > > again for another 40$, as well as he will replace the PCV, should this be a
> > > > > go? or should I go somewhere else?
> > > > >
> > > > > Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
> > > > >
> > > > > Adonis
> > > >
> >


--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>

 

The local Jeep dealer knew exactly what I was looking for, pulled it
off the shelf and I was on my way for under $25. There's also
something to be said for checking with Jeep in the process - sometimes
they surprise you!

On Sat, 17 Apr 2004 15:15:13 UTC Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote:

>
> The grommets on my `89 4.0 were shot as is the connector to the filter box
> so I went looking for them locally. I hit almost every parts house in
> town before I happened on the friendly guy at the NAPA store. Now, this
> is why mass retailers like AutoZone aren't always the better place to buy
> parts (leaving aside the question of quality for now): AutoZone hires
> pimple-faced kids who are completely lost if it doesn't pop up for them on
> a computer screen. "I don't even know where the paper catalogues are" is
> not an infrequent whine (they're right by your left foot, ya twit). I
> often look up my own parts at the local AZ and tell them what I need.
>
> So the guy at NAPA listens to what I'm describing and says "I know that we
> can get them, but the soft parts are molded onto the hard tubing and
> they're called something utterly wrong in the catalogue."
>
> He checked all the likely index entries in the Balkamp catalogue: Valve
> cover grommets, PCV, CCV, emissions, vapor, nada. He finally found them
> by paging through the catalogue, knowing what it looked like. The parts
> fit a range of years for the 4.0 (something like `87 - `92) and there's
> three of them: "Left Vacuum Assembly", "Right Vacuum Assembly" and the
> small-bore tube from the rear to the manifold, whose name escapes me.
> They _are_ _not_ _indexed_ in the current Balkamp catalogue, but for
> those who will eventually need to replace these parts here's the
> Balkamp part numbers 715-1365 (rear) 715-1366 (left) 715-1367 (right).
> Total cost locally for all three parts was US$41.
>
> Thanks again Mike for the advice. I'll be replacing those parts
> this afternoon.
>
>
> On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
>
> > The rear plastic tube is plugged up. A good soak in carb cleaner and a
> > ream with a chunk of insulated wire fixed mine. 12 gauge automotive wire
> > I think it was.
> >
> > The CCV grommet in the rear has a metered hole that can be cleaned out
> > with a paper clip. If it has been blocked for a long time, sludge will
> > have built up and the grommet might need to be taken out to clean under
> > it or even the cover removed to really clean it out.
> >
> > The CCV is calibrated to use the air intake hose from the filter. If
> > the grommets are leaking, too much air can get in and the CCV will not
> > suck hard enough so again oil spits into the air filter.
> >
> > Same for a worn out oil filler cap.
> >
> > But if the back tube is plugged, it just spits oil out everywhere, fix
> > that first and see if the leaks continue, if they do seal more up.
> >
> > Here is a link on it with some part numbers for new:
> >
> > http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cheroke...ltr/blowby.htm
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > Lee Ayrton wrote:
> > >
> > > Ah, thanks, you just opened the can of worms that I was looking at. My
> > > `89 Cherokee 4.0 is blowing a respectable amount of oil into the filter
> > > box, as well as around both valve cover grommets and the filler cap.
> > > There's a small diameter hard tube that exits the rear third of the valve
> > > cover and enters the intake manifold. There's a large-bore hard tube that
> > > exits the front third of the valve cover and enters the rear of the filter
> > > box. Clearly something isn't venting correctly, but where should I look?
> > >
> > > On Mon, 12 Apr 2004, Mike Romain wrote:
> > >
> > > > So I guess no matter what engine you have it does need a couple
> > > > flushes. You should put an additive in, drive it a bit then change the
> > > > oil. Several times.
> > > >
> > > > I am concerned a bit with the PCV thing. If the mechanic doesn't know
> > > > the difference between a PCV and CCV, well... Run fast...
> > > >
> > > > Jeep engines are really touchy about the PCV and CCV systems working
> > > > right or they can blow massive amounts of oil into the air filters.
> > > > Enough I know a few folks that got suckered into new engines only to
> > > > have the same oil blow that only needed a $5.00 fix...
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > Adonis wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I took my 94XJ to a local Jeep hobbyist install/repair shop with some
> > > > > blow-by in which I have, he explained that I need to flush my engine, but
> > > > > googling around suggests that it may be my PCV valve (which is broken,
> > > > > physically) but also when the guy stuck his finger into the filler cap there
> > > > > was a very good amount of sludge, he wants to charge 40$ for an oil change
> > > > > to flush out the contaminants this week and to return next week to flush it
> > > > > again for another 40$, as well as he will replace the PCV, should this be a
> > > > > go? or should I go somewhere else?
> > > > >
> > > > > Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
> > > > >
> > > > > Adonis
> > > >
> >


--
Will Honea <whonea@codenet.net>