93 zj nightmare
Guest
Posts: n/a
93 zj nightmare
Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the shaft..... re
installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned alot about
the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days. Now have it running
go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it now i have
a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it off....
it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55. Tried to
clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be replacing this
first, but why no up shift???
I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the bottom
end, oil pump, bearings etc......
installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned alot about
the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days. Now have it running
go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it now i have
a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it off....
it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55. Tried to
clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be replacing this
first, but why no up shift???
I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the bottom
end, oil pump, bearings etc......
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 zj nightmare
jbbiggs67 did pass the time by typing:
> Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the shaft..... re
> installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned alot about
> the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days.
It would have been easier just to replace the distributor.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
Unless you actually turned the engine you shouldn't have had to re-index the
distributor.
> Now have it running
> go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it now i have
> a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
.... You know this now, but over-revving an engine that isn't working is the
absolute wrong thing to do...
The 4.0 is a zero interference design so you can't bend a valve or rod.
> It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it off....
> it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55.
12 (battery disco, check your battery cables)
24 Throttle position sensor input above or
below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does
not correlate to MAP sensor.
54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking
34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed
Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control
switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage
51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an
abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)
55 (end of codes)
What that's telling me is to check your battery terminals and make sure
they are tight an corrosion free. Also double check the harness. All those
codes won't set normally unless the power has been interrupted.
Also check the Camshaft Position Sensor connector to your distributor and
the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector down by the dipstick.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#CPSdetails
> Tried to
> clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
> Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be replacing this
> first, but why no up shift???
In the event of a serious engine fault the ECU (engine computer) will prevent
the TCU (transmission computer) from getting out of first. This is to help
prevent extensive damage.
> I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the bottom
> end, oil pump, bearings etc......
Depending on what went wrong it may be as simple as a forgotten connection or
you may be looking at having to get the ZJ flatbedded into a shop.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the shaft..... re
> installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned alot about
> the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days.
It would have been easier just to replace the distributor.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
Unless you actually turned the engine you shouldn't have had to re-index the
distributor.
> Now have it running
> go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it now i have
> a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
.... You know this now, but over-revving an engine that isn't working is the
absolute wrong thing to do...
The 4.0 is a zero interference design so you can't bend a valve or rod.
> It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it off....
> it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55.
12 (battery disco, check your battery cables)
24 Throttle position sensor input above or
below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does
not correlate to MAP sensor.
54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking
34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed
Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control
switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage
51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an
abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)
55 (end of codes)
What that's telling me is to check your battery terminals and make sure
they are tight an corrosion free. Also double check the harness. All those
codes won't set normally unless the power has been interrupted.
Also check the Camshaft Position Sensor connector to your distributor and
the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector down by the dipstick.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#CPSdetails
> Tried to
> clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
> Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be replacing this
> first, but why no up shift???
In the event of a serious engine fault the ECU (engine computer) will prevent
the TCU (transmission computer) from getting out of first. This is to help
prevent extensive damage.
> I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the bottom
> end, oil pump, bearings etc......
Depending on what went wrong it may be as simple as a forgotten connection or
you may be looking at having to get the ZJ flatbedded into a shop.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 zj nightmare
jbbiggs67 did pass the time by typing:
> Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the shaft..... re
> installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned alot about
> the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days.
It would have been easier just to replace the distributor.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
Unless you actually turned the engine you shouldn't have had to re-index the
distributor.
> Now have it running
> go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it now i have
> a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
.... You know this now, but over-revving an engine that isn't working is the
absolute wrong thing to do...
The 4.0 is a zero interference design so you can't bend a valve or rod.
> It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it off....
> it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55.
12 (battery disco, check your battery cables)
24 Throttle position sensor input above or
below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does
not correlate to MAP sensor.
54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking
34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed
Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control
switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage
51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an
abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)
55 (end of codes)
What that's telling me is to check your battery terminals and make sure
they are tight an corrosion free. Also double check the harness. All those
codes won't set normally unless the power has been interrupted.
Also check the Camshaft Position Sensor connector to your distributor and
the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector down by the dipstick.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#CPSdetails
> Tried to
> clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
> Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be replacing this
> first, but why no up shift???
In the event of a serious engine fault the ECU (engine computer) will prevent
the TCU (transmission computer) from getting out of first. This is to help
prevent extensive damage.
> I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the bottom
> end, oil pump, bearings etc......
Depending on what went wrong it may be as simple as a forgotten connection or
you may be looking at having to get the ZJ flatbedded into a shop.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the shaft..... re
> installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned alot about
> the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days.
It would have been easier just to replace the distributor.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
Unless you actually turned the engine you shouldn't have had to re-index the
distributor.
> Now have it running
> go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it now i have
> a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
.... You know this now, but over-revving an engine that isn't working is the
absolute wrong thing to do...
The 4.0 is a zero interference design so you can't bend a valve or rod.
> It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it off....
> it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55.
12 (battery disco, check your battery cables)
24 Throttle position sensor input above or
below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does
not correlate to MAP sensor.
54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking
34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed
Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control
switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage
51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an
abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)
55 (end of codes)
What that's telling me is to check your battery terminals and make sure
they are tight an corrosion free. Also double check the harness. All those
codes won't set normally unless the power has been interrupted.
Also check the Camshaft Position Sensor connector to your distributor and
the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector down by the dipstick.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#CPSdetails
> Tried to
> clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
> Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be replacing this
> first, but why no up shift???
In the event of a serious engine fault the ECU (engine computer) will prevent
the TCU (transmission computer) from getting out of first. This is to help
prevent extensive damage.
> I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the bottom
> end, oil pump, bearings etc......
Depending on what went wrong it may be as simple as a forgotten connection or
you may be looking at having to get the ZJ flatbedded into a shop.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 zj nightmare
jbbiggs67 did pass the time by typing:
> Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the shaft..... re
> installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned alot about
> the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days.
It would have been easier just to replace the distributor.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
Unless you actually turned the engine you shouldn't have had to re-index the
distributor.
> Now have it running
> go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it now i have
> a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
.... You know this now, but over-revving an engine that isn't working is the
absolute wrong thing to do...
The 4.0 is a zero interference design so you can't bend a valve or rod.
> It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it off....
> it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55.
12 (battery disco, check your battery cables)
24 Throttle position sensor input above or
below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does
not correlate to MAP sensor.
54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking
34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed
Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control
switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage
51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an
abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)
55 (end of codes)
What that's telling me is to check your battery terminals and make sure
they are tight an corrosion free. Also double check the harness. All those
codes won't set normally unless the power has been interrupted.
Also check the Camshaft Position Sensor connector to your distributor and
the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector down by the dipstick.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#CPSdetails
> Tried to
> clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
> Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be replacing this
> first, but why no up shift???
In the event of a serious engine fault the ECU (engine computer) will prevent
the TCU (transmission computer) from getting out of first. This is to help
prevent extensive damage.
> I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the bottom
> end, oil pump, bearings etc......
Depending on what went wrong it may be as simple as a forgotten connection or
you may be looking at having to get the ZJ flatbedded into a shop.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the shaft..... re
> installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned alot about
> the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days.
It would have been easier just to replace the distributor.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
Unless you actually turned the engine you shouldn't have had to re-index the
distributor.
> Now have it running
> go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it now i have
> a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
.... You know this now, but over-revving an engine that isn't working is the
absolute wrong thing to do...
The 4.0 is a zero interference design so you can't bend a valve or rod.
> It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it off....
> it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55.
12 (battery disco, check your battery cables)
24 Throttle position sensor input above or
below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does
not correlate to MAP sensor.
54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking
34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed
Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control
switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage
51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an
abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)
55 (end of codes)
What that's telling me is to check your battery terminals and make sure
they are tight an corrosion free. Also double check the harness. All those
codes won't set normally unless the power has been interrupted.
Also check the Camshaft Position Sensor connector to your distributor and
the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector down by the dipstick.
http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#CPSdetails
> Tried to
> clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
> Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be replacing this
> first, but why no up shift???
In the event of a serious engine fault the ECU (engine computer) will prevent
the TCU (transmission computer) from getting out of first. This is to help
prevent extensive damage.
> I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the bottom
> end, oil pump, bearings etc......
Depending on what went wrong it may be as simple as a forgotten connection or
you may be looking at having to get the ZJ flatbedded into a shop.
--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 zj nightmare
Thanks Doug
I was by myself and i installed the distributor and it would not fall into
the oil pump, so i bumped the engine without the hold down in place, the
distributor jumped up instead of falling in so thats where the fun began,
Has anyone pulled the oil pan on these with the engine still inframe?
Thanks
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:hXhJd.7554$8Q.6341@okepread06...
> jbbiggs67 did pass the time by typing:
> > Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the
shaft..... re
> > installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned alot
about
> > the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days.
>
> It would have been easier just to replace the distributor.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
> Unless you actually turned the engine you shouldn't have had to re-index
the
> distributor.
>
> > Now have it running
> > go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it now i
have
> > a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
>
> ... You know this now, but over-revving an engine that isn't working is
the
> absolute wrong thing to do...
>
> The 4.0 is a zero interference design so you can't bend a valve or rod.
>
> > It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it
off....
> > it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55.
>
> 12 (battery disco, check your battery cables)
> 24 Throttle position sensor input above or
> below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does
> not correlate to MAP sensor.
> 54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking
> 34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed
> Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control
> switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage
> 51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an
> abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)
> 55 (end of codes)
>
> What that's telling me is to check your battery terminals and make sure
> they are tight an corrosion free. Also double check the harness. All
those
> codes won't set normally unless the power has been interrupted.
> Also check the Camshaft Position Sensor connector to your distributor and
> the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector down by the dipstick.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#CPSdetails
>
> > Tried to
> > clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
> > Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be replacing
this
> > first, but why no up shift???
>
> In the event of a serious engine fault the ECU (engine computer) will
prevent
> the TCU (transmission computer) from getting out of first. This is to
help
> prevent extensive damage.
>
> > I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the bottom
> > end, oil pump, bearings etc......
>
> Depending on what went wrong it may be as simple as a forgotten connection
or
> you may be looking at having to get the ZJ flatbedded into a shop.
>
> --
> -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
>
>
I was by myself and i installed the distributor and it would not fall into
the oil pump, so i bumped the engine without the hold down in place, the
distributor jumped up instead of falling in so thats where the fun began,
Has anyone pulled the oil pan on these with the engine still inframe?
Thanks
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:hXhJd.7554$8Q.6341@okepread06...
> jbbiggs67 did pass the time by typing:
> > Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the
shaft..... re
> > installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned alot
about
> > the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days.
>
> It would have been easier just to replace the distributor.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
> Unless you actually turned the engine you shouldn't have had to re-index
the
> distributor.
>
> > Now have it running
> > go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it now i
have
> > a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
>
> ... You know this now, but over-revving an engine that isn't working is
the
> absolute wrong thing to do...
>
> The 4.0 is a zero interference design so you can't bend a valve or rod.
>
> > It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it
off....
> > it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55.
>
> 12 (battery disco, check your battery cables)
> 24 Throttle position sensor input above or
> below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does
> not correlate to MAP sensor.
> 54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking
> 34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed
> Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control
> switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage
> 51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an
> abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)
> 55 (end of codes)
>
> What that's telling me is to check your battery terminals and make sure
> they are tight an corrosion free. Also double check the harness. All
those
> codes won't set normally unless the power has been interrupted.
> Also check the Camshaft Position Sensor connector to your distributor and
> the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector down by the dipstick.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#CPSdetails
>
> > Tried to
> > clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
> > Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be replacing
this
> > first, but why no up shift???
>
> In the event of a serious engine fault the ECU (engine computer) will
prevent
> the TCU (transmission computer) from getting out of first. This is to
help
> prevent extensive damage.
>
> > I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the bottom
> > end, oil pump, bearings etc......
>
> Depending on what went wrong it may be as simple as a forgotten connection
or
> you may be looking at having to get the ZJ flatbedded into a shop.
>
> --
> -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 zj nightmare
Thanks Doug
I was by myself and i installed the distributor and it would not fall into
the oil pump, so i bumped the engine without the hold down in place, the
distributor jumped up instead of falling in so thats where the fun began,
Has anyone pulled the oil pan on these with the engine still inframe?
Thanks
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:hXhJd.7554$8Q.6341@okepread06...
> jbbiggs67 did pass the time by typing:
> > Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the
shaft..... re
> > installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned alot
about
> > the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days.
>
> It would have been easier just to replace the distributor.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
> Unless you actually turned the engine you shouldn't have had to re-index
the
> distributor.
>
> > Now have it running
> > go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it now i
have
> > a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
>
> ... You know this now, but over-revving an engine that isn't working is
the
> absolute wrong thing to do...
>
> The 4.0 is a zero interference design so you can't bend a valve or rod.
>
> > It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it
off....
> > it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55.
>
> 12 (battery disco, check your battery cables)
> 24 Throttle position sensor input above or
> below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does
> not correlate to MAP sensor.
> 54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking
> 34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed
> Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control
> switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage
> 51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an
> abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)
> 55 (end of codes)
>
> What that's telling me is to check your battery terminals and make sure
> they are tight an corrosion free. Also double check the harness. All
those
> codes won't set normally unless the power has been interrupted.
> Also check the Camshaft Position Sensor connector to your distributor and
> the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector down by the dipstick.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#CPSdetails
>
> > Tried to
> > clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
> > Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be replacing
this
> > first, but why no up shift???
>
> In the event of a serious engine fault the ECU (engine computer) will
prevent
> the TCU (transmission computer) from getting out of first. This is to
help
> prevent extensive damage.
>
> > I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the bottom
> > end, oil pump, bearings etc......
>
> Depending on what went wrong it may be as simple as a forgotten connection
or
> you may be looking at having to get the ZJ flatbedded into a shop.
>
> --
> -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
>
>
I was by myself and i installed the distributor and it would not fall into
the oil pump, so i bumped the engine without the hold down in place, the
distributor jumped up instead of falling in so thats where the fun began,
Has anyone pulled the oil pan on these with the engine still inframe?
Thanks
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:hXhJd.7554$8Q.6341@okepread06...
> jbbiggs67 did pass the time by typing:
> > Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the
shaft..... re
> > installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned alot
about
> > the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days.
>
> It would have been easier just to replace the distributor.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
> Unless you actually turned the engine you shouldn't have had to re-index
the
> distributor.
>
> > Now have it running
> > go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it now i
have
> > a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
>
> ... You know this now, but over-revving an engine that isn't working is
the
> absolute wrong thing to do...
>
> The 4.0 is a zero interference design so you can't bend a valve or rod.
>
> > It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it
off....
> > it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55.
>
> 12 (battery disco, check your battery cables)
> 24 Throttle position sensor input above or
> below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does
> not correlate to MAP sensor.
> 54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking
> 34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed
> Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control
> switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage
> 51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an
> abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)
> 55 (end of codes)
>
> What that's telling me is to check your battery terminals and make sure
> they are tight an corrosion free. Also double check the harness. All
those
> codes won't set normally unless the power has been interrupted.
> Also check the Camshaft Position Sensor connector to your distributor and
> the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector down by the dipstick.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#CPSdetails
>
> > Tried to
> > clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
> > Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be replacing
this
> > first, but why no up shift???
>
> In the event of a serious engine fault the ECU (engine computer) will
prevent
> the TCU (transmission computer) from getting out of first. This is to
help
> prevent extensive damage.
>
> > I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the bottom
> > end, oil pump, bearings etc......
>
> Depending on what went wrong it may be as simple as a forgotten connection
or
> you may be looking at having to get the ZJ flatbedded into a shop.
>
> --
> -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 zj nightmare
Thanks Doug
I was by myself and i installed the distributor and it would not fall into
the oil pump, so i bumped the engine without the hold down in place, the
distributor jumped up instead of falling in so thats where the fun began,
Has anyone pulled the oil pan on these with the engine still inframe?
Thanks
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:hXhJd.7554$8Q.6341@okepread06...
> jbbiggs67 did pass the time by typing:
> > Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the
shaft..... re
> > installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned alot
about
> > the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days.
>
> It would have been easier just to replace the distributor.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
> Unless you actually turned the engine you shouldn't have had to re-index
the
> distributor.
>
> > Now have it running
> > go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it now i
have
> > a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
>
> ... You know this now, but over-revving an engine that isn't working is
the
> absolute wrong thing to do...
>
> The 4.0 is a zero interference design so you can't bend a valve or rod.
>
> > It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it
off....
> > it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55.
>
> 12 (battery disco, check your battery cables)
> 24 Throttle position sensor input above or
> below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does
> not correlate to MAP sensor.
> 54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking
> 34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed
> Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control
> switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage
> 51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an
> abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)
> 55 (end of codes)
>
> What that's telling me is to check your battery terminals and make sure
> they are tight an corrosion free. Also double check the harness. All
those
> codes won't set normally unless the power has been interrupted.
> Also check the Camshaft Position Sensor connector to your distributor and
> the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector down by the dipstick.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#CPSdetails
>
> > Tried to
> > clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
> > Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be replacing
this
> > first, but why no up shift???
>
> In the event of a serious engine fault the ECU (engine computer) will
prevent
> the TCU (transmission computer) from getting out of first. This is to
help
> prevent extensive damage.
>
> > I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the bottom
> > end, oil pump, bearings etc......
>
> Depending on what went wrong it may be as simple as a forgotten connection
or
> you may be looking at having to get the ZJ flatbedded into a shop.
>
> --
> -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
>
>
I was by myself and i installed the distributor and it would not fall into
the oil pump, so i bumped the engine without the hold down in place, the
distributor jumped up instead of falling in so thats where the fun began,
Has anyone pulled the oil pan on these with the engine still inframe?
Thanks
"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:hXhJd.7554$8Q.6341@okepread06...
> jbbiggs67 did pass the time by typing:
> > Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the
shaft..... re
> > installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned alot
about
> > the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days.
>
> It would have been easier just to replace the distributor.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
> Unless you actually turned the engine you shouldn't have had to re-index
the
> distributor.
>
> > Now have it running
> > go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it now i
have
> > a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
>
> ... You know this now, but over-revving an engine that isn't working is
the
> absolute wrong thing to do...
>
> The 4.0 is a zero interference design so you can't bend a valve or rod.
>
> > It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it
off....
> > it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55.
>
> 12 (battery disco, check your battery cables)
> 24 Throttle position sensor input above or
> below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does
> not correlate to MAP sensor.
> 54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking
> 34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed
> Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control
> switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage
> 51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an
> abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)
> 55 (end of codes)
>
> What that's telling me is to check your battery terminals and make sure
> they are tight an corrosion free. Also double check the harness. All
those
> codes won't set normally unless the power has been interrupted.
> Also check the Camshaft Position Sensor connector to your distributor and
> the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector down by the dipstick.
> http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#CPSdetails
>
> > Tried to
> > clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
> > Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be replacing
this
> > first, but why no up shift???
>
> In the event of a serious engine fault the ECU (engine computer) will
prevent
> the TCU (transmission computer) from getting out of first. This is to
help
> prevent extensive damage.
>
> > I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the bottom
> > end, oil pump, bearings etc......
>
> Depending on what went wrong it may be as simple as a forgotten connection
or
> you may be looking at having to get the ZJ flatbedded into a shop.
>
> --
> -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 zj nightmare
I have seen a 4.2 engine run when it was clocked 180 out. It sure
didn't have enough power to get out of 1st and it made 'bad' noises for
a new bottom end, but it ran.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
jbbiggs67@earthlink.net wrote:
>
> Thanks Doug
> I was by myself and i installed the distributor and it would not fall into
> the oil pump, so i bumped the engine without the hold down in place, the
> distributor jumped up instead of falling in so thats where the fun began,
> Has anyone pulled the oil pan on these with the engine still inframe?
>
> Thanks
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:hXhJd.7554$8Q.6341@okepread06...
> > jbbiggs67 did pass the time by typing:
> > > Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the
> shaft..... re
> > > installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned alot
> about
> > > the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days.
> >
> > It would have been easier just to replace the distributor.
> > http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
> > Unless you actually turned the engine you shouldn't have had to re-index
> the
> > distributor.
> >
> > > Now have it running
> > > go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it now i
> have
> > > a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
> >
> > ... You know this now, but over-revving an engine that isn't working is
> the
> > absolute wrong thing to do...
> >
> > The 4.0 is a zero interference design so you can't bend a valve or rod.
> >
> > > It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it
> off....
> > > it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55.
> >
> > 12 (battery disco, check your battery cables)
> > 24 Throttle position sensor input above or
> > below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does
> > not correlate to MAP sensor.
> > 54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking
> > 34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed
> > Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control
> > switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage
> > 51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an
> > abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)
> > 55 (end of codes)
> >
> > What that's telling me is to check your battery terminals and make sure
> > they are tight an corrosion free. Also double check the harness. All
> those
> > codes won't set normally unless the power has been interrupted.
> > Also check the Camshaft Position Sensor connector to your distributor and
> > the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector down by the dipstick.
> > http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#CPSdetails
> >
> > > Tried to
> > > clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
> > > Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be replacing
> this
> > > first, but why no up shift???
> >
> > In the event of a serious engine fault the ECU (engine computer) will
> prevent
> > the TCU (transmission computer) from getting out of first. This is to
> help
> > prevent extensive damage.
> >
> > > I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the bottom
> > > end, oil pump, bearings etc......
> >
> > Depending on what went wrong it may be as simple as a forgotten connection
> or
> > you may be looking at having to get the ZJ flatbedded into a shop.
> >
> > --
> > -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> > HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> > Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> > Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> >
> >
didn't have enough power to get out of 1st and it made 'bad' noises for
a new bottom end, but it ran.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
jbbiggs67@earthlink.net wrote:
>
> Thanks Doug
> I was by myself and i installed the distributor and it would not fall into
> the oil pump, so i bumped the engine without the hold down in place, the
> distributor jumped up instead of falling in so thats where the fun began,
> Has anyone pulled the oil pan on these with the engine still inframe?
>
> Thanks
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:hXhJd.7554$8Q.6341@okepread06...
> > jbbiggs67 did pass the time by typing:
> > > Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the
> shaft..... re
> > > installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned alot
> about
> > > the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days.
> >
> > It would have been easier just to replace the distributor.
> > http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
> > Unless you actually turned the engine you shouldn't have had to re-index
> the
> > distributor.
> >
> > > Now have it running
> > > go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it now i
> have
> > > a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
> >
> > ... You know this now, but over-revving an engine that isn't working is
> the
> > absolute wrong thing to do...
> >
> > The 4.0 is a zero interference design so you can't bend a valve or rod.
> >
> > > It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it
> off....
> > > it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55.
> >
> > 12 (battery disco, check your battery cables)
> > 24 Throttle position sensor input above or
> > below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does
> > not correlate to MAP sensor.
> > 54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking
> > 34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed
> > Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control
> > switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage
> > 51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an
> > abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)
> > 55 (end of codes)
> >
> > What that's telling me is to check your battery terminals and make sure
> > they are tight an corrosion free. Also double check the harness. All
> those
> > codes won't set normally unless the power has been interrupted.
> > Also check the Camshaft Position Sensor connector to your distributor and
> > the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector down by the dipstick.
> > http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#CPSdetails
> >
> > > Tried to
> > > clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
> > > Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be replacing
> this
> > > first, but why no up shift???
> >
> > In the event of a serious engine fault the ECU (engine computer) will
> prevent
> > the TCU (transmission computer) from getting out of first. This is to
> help
> > prevent extensive damage.
> >
> > > I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the bottom
> > > end, oil pump, bearings etc......
> >
> > Depending on what went wrong it may be as simple as a forgotten connection
> or
> > you may be looking at having to get the ZJ flatbedded into a shop.
> >
> > --
> > -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> > HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> > Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> > Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> >
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 zj nightmare
I have seen a 4.2 engine run when it was clocked 180 out. It sure
didn't have enough power to get out of 1st and it made 'bad' noises for
a new bottom end, but it ran.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
jbbiggs67@earthlink.net wrote:
>
> Thanks Doug
> I was by myself and i installed the distributor and it would not fall into
> the oil pump, so i bumped the engine without the hold down in place, the
> distributor jumped up instead of falling in so thats where the fun began,
> Has anyone pulled the oil pan on these with the engine still inframe?
>
> Thanks
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:hXhJd.7554$8Q.6341@okepread06...
> > jbbiggs67 did pass the time by typing:
> > > Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the
> shaft..... re
> > > installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned alot
> about
> > > the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days.
> >
> > It would have been easier just to replace the distributor.
> > http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
> > Unless you actually turned the engine you shouldn't have had to re-index
> the
> > distributor.
> >
> > > Now have it running
> > > go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it now i
> have
> > > a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
> >
> > ... You know this now, but over-revving an engine that isn't working is
> the
> > absolute wrong thing to do...
> >
> > The 4.0 is a zero interference design so you can't bend a valve or rod.
> >
> > > It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it
> off....
> > > it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55.
> >
> > 12 (battery disco, check your battery cables)
> > 24 Throttle position sensor input above or
> > below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does
> > not correlate to MAP sensor.
> > 54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking
> > 34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed
> > Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control
> > switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage
> > 51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an
> > abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)
> > 55 (end of codes)
> >
> > What that's telling me is to check your battery terminals and make sure
> > they are tight an corrosion free. Also double check the harness. All
> those
> > codes won't set normally unless the power has been interrupted.
> > Also check the Camshaft Position Sensor connector to your distributor and
> > the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector down by the dipstick.
> > http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#CPSdetails
> >
> > > Tried to
> > > clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
> > > Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be replacing
> this
> > > first, but why no up shift???
> >
> > In the event of a serious engine fault the ECU (engine computer) will
> prevent
> > the TCU (transmission computer) from getting out of first. This is to
> help
> > prevent extensive damage.
> >
> > > I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the bottom
> > > end, oil pump, bearings etc......
> >
> > Depending on what went wrong it may be as simple as a forgotten connection
> or
> > you may be looking at having to get the ZJ flatbedded into a shop.
> >
> > --
> > -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> > HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> > Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> > Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> >
> >
didn't have enough power to get out of 1st and it made 'bad' noises for
a new bottom end, but it ran.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
jbbiggs67@earthlink.net wrote:
>
> Thanks Doug
> I was by myself and i installed the distributor and it would not fall into
> the oil pump, so i bumped the engine without the hold down in place, the
> distributor jumped up instead of falling in so thats where the fun began,
> Has anyone pulled the oil pan on these with the engine still inframe?
>
> Thanks
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:hXhJd.7554$8Q.6341@okepread06...
> > jbbiggs67 did pass the time by typing:
> > > Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the
> shaft..... re
> > > installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned alot
> about
> > > the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days.
> >
> > It would have been easier just to replace the distributor.
> > http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
> > Unless you actually turned the engine you shouldn't have had to re-index
> the
> > distributor.
> >
> > > Now have it running
> > > go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it now i
> have
> > > a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
> >
> > ... You know this now, but over-revving an engine that isn't working is
> the
> > absolute wrong thing to do...
> >
> > The 4.0 is a zero interference design so you can't bend a valve or rod.
> >
> > > It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it
> off....
> > > it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55.
> >
> > 12 (battery disco, check your battery cables)
> > 24 Throttle position sensor input above or
> > below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does
> > not correlate to MAP sensor.
> > 54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking
> > 34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed
> > Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control
> > switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage
> > 51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an
> > abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)
> > 55 (end of codes)
> >
> > What that's telling me is to check your battery terminals and make sure
> > they are tight an corrosion free. Also double check the harness. All
> those
> > codes won't set normally unless the power has been interrupted.
> > Also check the Camshaft Position Sensor connector to your distributor and
> > the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector down by the dipstick.
> > http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#CPSdetails
> >
> > > Tried to
> > > clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
> > > Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be replacing
> this
> > > first, but why no up shift???
> >
> > In the event of a serious engine fault the ECU (engine computer) will
> prevent
> > the TCU (transmission computer) from getting out of first. This is to
> help
> > prevent extensive damage.
> >
> > > I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the bottom
> > > end, oil pump, bearings etc......
> >
> > Depending on what went wrong it may be as simple as a forgotten connection
> or
> > you may be looking at having to get the ZJ flatbedded into a shop.
> >
> > --
> > -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> > HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> > Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> > Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> >
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 93 zj nightmare
I have seen a 4.2 engine run when it was clocked 180 out. It sure
didn't have enough power to get out of 1st and it made 'bad' noises for
a new bottom end, but it ran.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
jbbiggs67@earthlink.net wrote:
>
> Thanks Doug
> I was by myself and i installed the distributor and it would not fall into
> the oil pump, so i bumped the engine without the hold down in place, the
> distributor jumped up instead of falling in so thats where the fun began,
> Has anyone pulled the oil pan on these with the engine still inframe?
>
> Thanks
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:hXhJd.7554$8Q.6341@okepread06...
> > jbbiggs67 did pass the time by typing:
> > > Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the
> shaft..... re
> > > installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned alot
> about
> > > the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days.
> >
> > It would have been easier just to replace the distributor.
> > http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
> > Unless you actually turned the engine you shouldn't have had to re-index
> the
> > distributor.
> >
> > > Now have it running
> > > go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it now i
> have
> > > a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
> >
> > ... You know this now, but over-revving an engine that isn't working is
> the
> > absolute wrong thing to do...
> >
> > The 4.0 is a zero interference design so you can't bend a valve or rod.
> >
> > > It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it
> off....
> > > it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55.
> >
> > 12 (battery disco, check your battery cables)
> > 24 Throttle position sensor input above or
> > below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does
> > not correlate to MAP sensor.
> > 54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking
> > 34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed
> > Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control
> > switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage
> > 51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an
> > abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)
> > 55 (end of codes)
> >
> > What that's telling me is to check your battery terminals and make sure
> > they are tight an corrosion free. Also double check the harness. All
> those
> > codes won't set normally unless the power has been interrupted.
> > Also check the Camshaft Position Sensor connector to your distributor and
> > the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector down by the dipstick.
> > http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#CPSdetails
> >
> > > Tried to
> > > clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
> > > Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be replacing
> this
> > > first, but why no up shift???
> >
> > In the event of a serious engine fault the ECU (engine computer) will
> prevent
> > the TCU (transmission computer) from getting out of first. This is to
> help
> > prevent extensive damage.
> >
> > > I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the bottom
> > > end, oil pump, bearings etc......
> >
> > Depending on what went wrong it may be as simple as a forgotten connection
> or
> > you may be looking at having to get the ZJ flatbedded into a shop.
> >
> > --
> > -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> > HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> > Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> > Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> >
> >
didn't have enough power to get out of 1st and it made 'bad' noises for
a new bottom end, but it ran.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
jbbiggs67@earthlink.net wrote:
>
> Thanks Doug
> I was by myself and i installed the distributor and it would not fall into
> the oil pump, so i bumped the engine without the hold down in place, the
> distributor jumped up instead of falling in so thats where the fun began,
> Has anyone pulled the oil pan on these with the engine still inframe?
>
> Thanks
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:hXhJd.7554$8Q.6341@okepread06...
> > jbbiggs67 did pass the time by typing:
> > > Pulled the distributor to replace bushings, lot of play in the
> shaft..... re
> > > installed the distibutor then it would not crank, I have learned alot
> about
> > > the indexing of a 4.0 distributor in the last few days.
> >
> > It would have been easier just to replace the distributor.
> > http://members.***.net/wilsond/distributor/
> > Unless you actually turned the engine you shouldn't have had to re-index
> the
> > distributor.
> >
> > > Now have it running
> > > go around the block, I have no upshift? revved the hell out of it now i
> have
> > > a nice deep knock in the engine, rod?
> >
> > ... You know this now, but over-revving an engine that isn't working is
> the
> > absolute wrong thing to do...
> >
> > The 4.0 is a zero interference design so you can't bend a valve or rod.
> >
> > > It shifted good before i removed the distributor. Came home cut it
> off....
> > > it would not re crank??? checked the codes 12, 24, 54, 34, 51, 55.
> >
> > 12 (battery disco, check your battery cables)
> > 24 Throttle position sensor input above or
> > below acceptable voltage. TPS signal does
> > not correlate to MAP sensor.
> > 54 No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking
> > 34 An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed
> > Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. Speed control
> > switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage
> > 51 A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an
> > abnormally rich correction factor. (O2 sensor)
> > 55 (end of codes)
> >
> > What that's telling me is to check your battery terminals and make sure
> > they are tight an corrosion free. Also double check the harness. All
> those
> > codes won't set normally unless the power has been interrupted.
> > Also check the Camshaft Position Sensor connector to your distributor and
> > the Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector down by the dipstick.
> > http://members.***.net/wilsond/Fixes...tml#CPSdetails
> >
> > > Tried to
> > > clear the codes (removed battery cable for 2 hours) still same codes
> > > Cam sensor wires do not look great in the dist, so i will be replacing
> this
> > > first, but why no up shift???
> >
> > In the event of a serious engine fault the ECU (engine computer) will
> prevent
> > the TCU (transmission computer) from getting out of first. This is to
> help
> > prevent extensive damage.
> >
> > > I need to get it to shift so i can take it to the shop and do the bottom
> > > end, oil pump, bearings etc......
> >
> > Depending on what went wrong it may be as simple as a forgotten connection
> or
> > you may be looking at having to get the ZJ flatbedded into a shop.
> >
> > --
> > -- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
> > HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
> > Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
> > Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!
> >
> >
