DougW

paul wrote:
> It started awhile back with slow acceleration from a dead stop then at
> freeway speeds if I tried to pass the RPM's would shoot up to 3500
> and there would be no drive train response.
>
> Took it to a transmission shop they did a 'rebuild' of the tranny - I
> got it back still had the same problem but now it was more noticeable
> that it was not shifting properly from 1st to 2nd - rpm's increased
> - no shift unless I let off on the throttle. Took it back again, and
> was told they tried adjusting the shift points both earlier and later
> with no favorable results and that they feel that there is a spark/
> vacuum issue.
> Now the symptoms are the same except at freeway speed it will no
> longer kick up the rpm's - just plods along at 60 mph.
>
> If I shift to neutral I can get an rpm response on the freeway but
> not while in gear.

Is the kickdown cable properly adjusted?

It's on the side of the trottle body and runs down to the transmission.
The adjustment is a pushbutton thingy on the holddown. You move the
cable end further away (more tension) to tighten up the shift points.

You can test spark with a gap tester. How old is your ignition system?
Plugs could be bad, the wires could be arcing or worn out, bad cap or rotor
will make for weak spark, and the coil is well known for going bad. Best
replacement for the coil is a NAPA part ECHIC409 (same as the OEM part)
but this has a short resistor lead and a better matched coil.


--
DougW

paul

Doug,
I did adjust as per your earlier recommendation without any success.

Ignition (plugs, wires and cap) was done 2.5 years ago.
What is a gap tester and how does it function?

Can I test the coil with a meter?

thanks much,
paul

I should add to my description below that the jeep idles at 500 rpm and is
smooth - although at infrequent times it will 'surge' to 1000 rpm and the
jeep will lurch a little if my foot is not firm on the brake.

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:1FRVh.119737$nh4.51627@newsfe20.lga...
> paul wrote:
>> It started awhile back with slow acceleration from a dead stop then at
>> freeway speeds if I tried to pass the RPM's would shoot up to 3500
>> and there would be no drive train response.
>>
>> Took it to a transmission shop they did a 'rebuild' of the tranny - I
>> got it back still had the same problem but now it was more noticeable
>> that it was not shifting properly from 1st to 2nd - rpm's increased
>> - no shift unless I let off on the throttle. Took it back again, and
>> was told they tried adjusting the shift points both earlier and later
>> with no favorable results and that they feel that there is a spark/
>> vacuum issue.
>> Now the symptoms are the same except at freeway speed it will no
>> longer kick up the rpm's - just plods along at 60 mph.
>>
>> If I shift to neutral I can get an rpm response on the freeway but
>> not while in gear.
>
> Is the kickdown cable properly adjusted?
>
> It's on the side of the trottle body and runs down to the transmission.
> The adjustment is a pushbutton thingy on the holddown. You move the
> cable end further away (more tension) to tighten up the shift points.
>
> You can test spark with a gap tester. How old is your ignition system?
> Plugs could be bad, the wires could be arcing or worn out, bad cap or
> rotor
> will make for weak spark, and the coil is well known for going bad. Best
> replacement for the coil is a NAPA part ECHIC409 (same as the OEM part)
> but this has a short resistor lead and a better matched coil.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>

paul

Doug,
I did adjust as per your earlier recommendation without any success.

Ignition (plugs, wires and cap) was done 2.5 years ago.
What is a gap tester and how does it function?

Can I test the coil with a meter?

thanks much,
paul

I should add to my description below that the jeep idles at 500 rpm and is
smooth - although at infrequent times it will 'surge' to 1000 rpm and the
jeep will lurch a little if my foot is not firm on the brake.

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:1FRVh.119737$nh4.51627@newsfe20.lga...
> paul wrote:
>> It started awhile back with slow acceleration from a dead stop then at
>> freeway speeds if I tried to pass the RPM's would shoot up to 3500
>> and there would be no drive train response.
>>
>> Took it to a transmission shop they did a 'rebuild' of the tranny - I
>> got it back still had the same problem but now it was more noticeable
>> that it was not shifting properly from 1st to 2nd - rpm's increased
>> - no shift unless I let off on the throttle. Took it back again, and
>> was told they tried adjusting the shift points both earlier and later
>> with no favorable results and that they feel that there is a spark/
>> vacuum issue.
>> Now the symptoms are the same except at freeway speed it will no
>> longer kick up the rpm's - just plods along at 60 mph.
>>
>> If I shift to neutral I can get an rpm response on the freeway but
>> not while in gear.
>
> Is the kickdown cable properly adjusted?
>
> It's on the side of the trottle body and runs down to the transmission.
> The adjustment is a pushbutton thingy on the holddown. You move the
> cable end further away (more tension) to tighten up the shift points.
>
> You can test spark with a gap tester. How old is your ignition system?
> Plugs could be bad, the wires could be arcing or worn out, bad cap or
> rotor
> will make for weak spark, and the coil is well known for going bad. Best
> replacement for the coil is a NAPA part ECHIC409 (same as the OEM part)
> but this has a short resistor lead and a better matched coil.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>

paul

Doug,
I did adjust as per your earlier recommendation without any success.

Ignition (plugs, wires and cap) was done 2.5 years ago.
What is a gap tester and how does it function?

Can I test the coil with a meter?

thanks much,
paul

I should add to my description below that the jeep idles at 500 rpm and is
smooth - although at infrequent times it will 'surge' to 1000 rpm and the
jeep will lurch a little if my foot is not firm on the brake.

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:1FRVh.119737$nh4.51627@newsfe20.lga...
> paul wrote:
>> It started awhile back with slow acceleration from a dead stop then at
>> freeway speeds if I tried to pass the RPM's would shoot up to 3500
>> and there would be no drive train response.
>>
>> Took it to a transmission shop they did a 'rebuild' of the tranny - I
>> got it back still had the same problem but now it was more noticeable
>> that it was not shifting properly from 1st to 2nd - rpm's increased
>> - no shift unless I let off on the throttle. Took it back again, and
>> was told they tried adjusting the shift points both earlier and later
>> with no favorable results and that they feel that there is a spark/
>> vacuum issue.
>> Now the symptoms are the same except at freeway speed it will no
>> longer kick up the rpm's - just plods along at 60 mph.
>>
>> If I shift to neutral I can get an rpm response on the freeway but
>> not while in gear.
>
> Is the kickdown cable properly adjusted?
>
> It's on the side of the trottle body and runs down to the transmission.
> The adjustment is a pushbutton thingy on the holddown. You move the
> cable end further away (more tension) to tighten up the shift points.
>
> You can test spark with a gap tester. How old is your ignition system?
> Plugs could be bad, the wires could be arcing or worn out, bad cap or
> rotor
> will make for weak spark, and the coil is well known for going bad. Best
> replacement for the coil is a NAPA part ECHIC409 (same as the OEM part)
> but this has a short resistor lead and a better matched coil.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>

paul

Doug,
I did adjust as per your earlier recommendation without any success.

Ignition (plugs, wires and cap) was done 2.5 years ago.
What is a gap tester and how does it function?

Can I test the coil with a meter?

thanks much,
paul

I should add to my description below that the jeep idles at 500 rpm and is
smooth - although at infrequent times it will 'surge' to 1000 rpm and the
jeep will lurch a little if my foot is not firm on the brake.

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:1FRVh.119737$nh4.51627@newsfe20.lga...
> paul wrote:
>> It started awhile back with slow acceleration from a dead stop then at
>> freeway speeds if I tried to pass the RPM's would shoot up to 3500
>> and there would be no drive train response.
>>
>> Took it to a transmission shop they did a 'rebuild' of the tranny - I
>> got it back still had the same problem but now it was more noticeable
>> that it was not shifting properly from 1st to 2nd - rpm's increased
>> - no shift unless I let off on the throttle. Took it back again, and
>> was told they tried adjusting the shift points both earlier and later
>> with no favorable results and that they feel that there is a spark/
>> vacuum issue.
>> Now the symptoms are the same except at freeway speed it will no
>> longer kick up the rpm's - just plods along at 60 mph.
>>
>> If I shift to neutral I can get an rpm response on the freeway but
>> not while in gear.
>
> Is the kickdown cable properly adjusted?
>
> It's on the side of the trottle body and runs down to the transmission.
> The adjustment is a pushbutton thingy on the holddown. You move the
> cable end further away (more tension) to tighten up the shift points.
>
> You can test spark with a gap tester. How old is your ignition system?
> Plugs could be bad, the wires could be arcing or worn out, bad cap or
> rotor
> will make for weak spark, and the coil is well known for going bad. Best
> replacement for the coil is a NAPA part ECHIC409 (same as the OEM part)
> but this has a short resistor lead and a better matched coil.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>

DougW

paul wrote:
> Doug,
> I did adjust as per your earlier recommendation without any success.
>
> Ignition (plugs, wires and cap) was done 2.5 years ago.
> What is a gap tester and how does it function?

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TTW409.html

Several types, I have these
(this one is better for open engine bays)
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/LIS-50850.html
This one works easier.
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-23900.html

It puts a known air gap between the coil and ground.
The distance the spark will jump indicates how high the
voltage, and the brightness indicates power.


> Can I test the coil with a meter?

sorta. I've tested quite a few that look good with a
simple resistance check but don't actually work. So much
so that throwing a known good test-coil in there is easier
than piddling with the meter.

--
DougW

DougW

paul wrote:
> Doug,
> I did adjust as per your earlier recommendation without any success.
>
> Ignition (plugs, wires and cap) was done 2.5 years ago.
> What is a gap tester and how does it function?

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TTW409.html

Several types, I have these
(this one is better for open engine bays)
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/LIS-50850.html
This one works easier.
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-23900.html

It puts a known air gap between the coil and ground.
The distance the spark will jump indicates how high the
voltage, and the brightness indicates power.


> Can I test the coil with a meter?

sorta. I've tested quite a few that look good with a
simple resistance check but don't actually work. So much
so that throwing a known good test-coil in there is easier
than piddling with the meter.

--
DougW

DougW

paul wrote:
> Doug,
> I did adjust as per your earlier recommendation without any success.
>
> Ignition (plugs, wires and cap) was done 2.5 years ago.
> What is a gap tester and how does it function?

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TTW409.html

Several types, I have these
(this one is better for open engine bays)
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/LIS-50850.html
This one works easier.
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-23900.html

It puts a known air gap between the coil and ground.
The distance the spark will jump indicates how high the
voltage, and the brightness indicates power.


> Can I test the coil with a meter?

sorta. I've tested quite a few that look good with a
simple resistance check but don't actually work. So much
so that throwing a known good test-coil in there is easier
than piddling with the meter.

--
DougW

DougW

paul wrote:
> Doug,
> I did adjust as per your earlier recommendation without any success.
>
> Ignition (plugs, wires and cap) was done 2.5 years ago.
> What is a gap tester and how does it function?

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TTW409.html

Several types, I have these
(this one is better for open engine bays)
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/LIS-50850.html
This one works easier.
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-23900.html

It puts a known air gap between the coil and ground.
The distance the spark will jump indicates how high the
voltage, and the brightness indicates power.


> Can I test the coil with a meter?

sorta. I've tested quite a few that look good with a
simple resistance check but don't actually work. So much
so that throwing a known good test-coil in there is easier
than piddling with the meter.

--
DougW