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Re: 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Cranks, But No Start

sounds like an intermittant connection.

could be a ground or a wire or a connector.

when the light is out, start wiggling wires.

Re: 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Cranks, But No Start

Casper did pass the time by typing:

> Is the ECU the only thing that sets the "Check Engine" on and into
> it's diagnostic mode? I was hoping for some more light on these areas.

The ECU (engine brain) is what does all the testing and lights the Check Engine
light.

Here is a few things that might help you understand how things hook up.

SBECii (the computer) pdf file.
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/temp/sbecii.pdf

service book
http://www.revbeergoggles.com/temp
You want zj-13.jpg to zj-18.jpg

I had a one-page diagram for the ECU and sensors, but I can't find
it right now. :/

--
DougW

Re: 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Cranks, But No Start

Have someone kick the tank and see if that speeds up your process.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Casper@ghostmail.cc wrote:
>
> Um, I think the fact that it consistantly starts when the "Check
> Engine" light comes on on the dashboard indicates this is not a
> mechanical problem. The engine is sound, cept for an oil change, and
> no point in doing that until I can resolve this weird issue.

Re: 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee Cranks, But No Start

I am back a page still, or want to be....

First off you say there is a failure issue or fatal error with the
alarm. It does 'not' work because you cannot program the second key and
the idiot light is flashing failure at you or not flashing when it
should which is a failure. Something has to be 'broken' in that
situation.

Then you said you have power at the fuel pump relay but no power back at
the fuel pump.

Now you say the key sometime turns on everything properly, but most
times doesn't.

I think these are related.

I would be running a booster cable from the negative battery post to
something metal on the firewall to see what happens just because I live
in the rust belt and see too many 'rotted where you can't see them'
connections.

Then I would be trying to find out if I could bypass the alarm and
security key.

Next I would be physically tracing the power from the fuel pump relay to
see what is between that and the pump itself. I would just take a wild
guess and figure the alarm has a cut off relay in there.

Could it be a bad ignition switch causing everything?

Or could the $tealer have screwed the alarm setting when they failed to
program the second key?

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

rifleman@nojunkmail.net wrote:
>
> Ok, here's the current situation...
>
> Tested all the relays and engine compartment fuse/relay box and they
> are all fine. Checked the interior fuse panel and all is fine.
> Everything in these places is getting voltage.
>
> Here is something we (my good neighbor and I) noticed during this
> testing and starting attempts...
>
> If you turn the ignition to the RUN position, four dash lights should
> come on. 1) ABS, 2) Check Engine, 3)Airbag and 4) Seatbelt.
>
> If you turn the key to RUN, and the "Check Engine" light comes on, the
> jeep will start. If the "Check Engine" light does not come on, the
> jeep will NOT start. If you put the key in the RUN position and the
> "check engine" light does not come on, AND you leave the key in the
> RUN position, eventually the "Check Engine" light comes on and the
> jeep starts. Every time the "Check Engine" light comes on, you can
> hear the fuel pump prime and start the jeep, usually on the first try.
>
> We repeated this pattern for a good 30-60 minutes, giving different
> time intervals inbetween because sometimes the dash lights all come on
> as they should on the first trr, and we wanted to make sure it wasn't
> initial luck. We confirmed there is a definite pattern.
>
> On the very last attempt, it took longer for the light to come on.. at
> least another 20 seconds than all the other previous attempts, AND
> when the "Check Engine" light came on, so did the Security light. The
> Security light remains on for about 3-5 seconds and then went off.
>
> I know the system is running checks when the light is on, and
> sometimes something isn't letting it come on, ergo no checks and
> nofuel priming. Anyone ever see this before?
>
> Last note.. sometimes, and only sometimes, I hear a clicking when I
> turn the key to RUN. It sounds like a circuit switching on/off. During
> all this testing, I did not hear it once.
>
> >On Fri, 17 Feb 2006 16:54:11 -0600, "DougW" wrote:
> >Let's go over the basics then.
> >
> >From the front of the vehicle, remove the fuel pump relay
> >Looking into the hole:
> >
> > 7
> > |
> >
> >6| -8- |10
> >
> > -9-
> >
> >With the ignition on, hole 7 should
> >have 12V from the power center fuses 3(20A) and 15(30A)
> >(same location as the relays)
> >Also check fuse2(20A), the ASD power fuse.
> >
> >Hole 6 should also have 12V, if not check fuse 6(15A)
> >
> >Hole 9 feeds the pump and the heated O2 sensor
> >(If you found blown fuses take a look at the O2 sensor
> >and follow the wire back along the engine to where a clip
> >holds it to the block, then follow that wire up to another
> >clip up above and forward of the engine mount. sometimes
> >that wire will melt and short out. That short can/will blow
> >fuses.)
> >
> >If all looks good at this point then
> >Jumping pin 9 to pin 7 will turn the pump on.
> >
> >You should be able to hear it or watch the fuel rail
> >pressure jump.