Lon

DougW proclaimed:

> blg wrote:
>
>>93 GCL (216k, Straight 6, auto transmission) won't start. All the
>>lights come on, open door bell dings, radio works, battery seems to
>>check out fine.
>>
>>When I turn the key, nothing happens. The selenoid is not clicking
>>and the starter doesn't do anything.
>>
>>This happened out of the blue....no problems starting prior to going
>>out this morning.
>>
>>Any ideas?
>
>
> Lots. And one of them might be right too. :)
>
> Before going any further, make sure you arm/disarm the
> alarm system. Just in case the vehicle thinks your trying
> to hotwire it.
>
> Not turning over rules out the CPS sensor and ignition coil, so it has
> to be in the cranking circuit. That's fuses/relay/wires/ignition switch.
>
> fuses:
>
> Behind the battery, in the fuse box, check the fuses. Especially
> the 60A, and 40A ignition and 40A fuseblock ones.
>
> relay:
>
> Engine starter relay is the only one that can prevent the starter from turning.
> You can swap it with a fog relay or a/c relay for testing.
>
> If you have a volt meter.
>
> Looking into the starter relay socket
> -
> - | |
> ^ -<---- should have 12v with key turned to start or run
> |
> `-all the time (fuse F12, 60A)
>
> Sorry, crappy ascii art. :/
>
> If it's not in the above let me know and I'll scan
> in the relevant bits from the service book. That will
> at least get you the schematic.
>
>
Doesn't the 93 also have the transmission park switch? I'd be surprised
if this is battery if there isn't even a click when the key is turned,
I'd go for your analysis, it is part of the series of connects to the
start relay.

I had a similar issue, ended up taking apart an ISO relay so I could hot
wire across the thing to force a start until I found it. Mine turned
out to be a corroded ignition switch assembly that the parts guy swore
never failed.

If you can catch it in the act, you can measure voltage at several key
points. On some the trick is that you want no voltage since it is an
interlock that should be closed. For a while my zj looked a tad odd, as
I had little tap wires across all the connect points so I could check
voltage and jumper them...since the darned thing only failed on wet cold
foggy nights and refused to fail on demand. One night I got lucky and
nailed it to the ignition switch.

Lon

DougW proclaimed:

> blg wrote:
>
>>93 GCL (216k, Straight 6, auto transmission) won't start. All the
>>lights come on, open door bell dings, radio works, battery seems to
>>check out fine.
>>
>>When I turn the key, nothing happens. The selenoid is not clicking
>>and the starter doesn't do anything.
>>
>>This happened out of the blue....no problems starting prior to going
>>out this morning.
>>
>>Any ideas?
>
>
> Lots. And one of them might be right too. :)
>
> Before going any further, make sure you arm/disarm the
> alarm system. Just in case the vehicle thinks your trying
> to hotwire it.
>
> Not turning over rules out the CPS sensor and ignition coil, so it has
> to be in the cranking circuit. That's fuses/relay/wires/ignition switch.
>
> fuses:
>
> Behind the battery, in the fuse box, check the fuses. Especially
> the 60A, and 40A ignition and 40A fuseblock ones.
>
> relay:
>
> Engine starter relay is the only one that can prevent the starter from turning.
> You can swap it with a fog relay or a/c relay for testing.
>
> If you have a volt meter.
>
> Looking into the starter relay socket
> -
> - | |
> ^ -<---- should have 12v with key turned to start or run
> |
> `-all the time (fuse F12, 60A)
>
> Sorry, crappy ascii art. :/
>
> If it's not in the above let me know and I'll scan
> in the relevant bits from the service book. That will
> at least get you the schematic.
>
>
Doesn't the 93 also have the transmission park switch? I'd be surprised
if this is battery if there isn't even a click when the key is turned,
I'd go for your analysis, it is part of the series of connects to the
start relay.

I had a similar issue, ended up taking apart an ISO relay so I could hot
wire across the thing to force a start until I found it. Mine turned
out to be a corroded ignition switch assembly that the parts guy swore
never failed.

If you can catch it in the act, you can measure voltage at several key
points. On some the trick is that you want no voltage since it is an
interlock that should be closed. For a while my zj looked a tad odd, as
I had little tap wires across all the connect points so I could check
voltage and jumper them...since the darned thing only failed on wet cold
foggy nights and refused to fail on demand. One night I got lucky and
nailed it to the ignition switch.

Jeffrey DeWitt

Cheap is good <G>

Jeff DeWitt

billy ray wrote:
> And relatively cheaply
>
> "Jeffrey DeWitt" <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:pzA0h.30$HD6.4@tornado.southeast.rr.com...
>
>>Don't you just love it when you finally get an annoying problem like this
>>figured out and FIXED once and for all?
>>
>>Jeff DeWitt
>>
>>blg wrote:
>>
>>>Okay, I think I got it! Had the started tested, it was okay.
>>>
>>>Brought it back home. Went to put the starter back on and noticed that
>>>one of the mounting bolts was stripped out....and, it seems that bolt
>>>is necessary for a good ground!!! I replace the bolt, used some thread
>>>lock, and it starts just fine.
>>>
>>>I also replaced the key cylinder on the ignition. $51 and about 1/2
>>>hour and the new key seems to work just fine now. It was pretty
>>>easy...I should have done that a couple of years ago!
>>>
>>>Thanks everyone for your help.
>>>
>>>Curtis wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>#1. For quite some time, I have had problems removing the key from the
>>>>
>>>>ignition. It won't turn back to the point where it can be pulled out.
>>>>Usually, after a few back and forth attempts, the key will come out.
>>>>
>>>>You may want to check the key cylinder and make sure it didn't break
>>>>internally. Does the key go to the run position then spring back as
>>>>normal? If not, that could be your issue..you'll need a T20 anti theft
>>>>torx to get at it, but that is all...oh disconnect the battery to let
>>>>the airbag discharge.
>>>>
>>>>- c
>>>
>

Jeffrey DeWitt

Cheap is good <G>

Jeff DeWitt

billy ray wrote:
> And relatively cheaply
>
> "Jeffrey DeWitt" <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:pzA0h.30$HD6.4@tornado.southeast.rr.com...
>
>>Don't you just love it when you finally get an annoying problem like this
>>figured out and FIXED once and for all?
>>
>>Jeff DeWitt
>>
>>blg wrote:
>>
>>>Okay, I think I got it! Had the started tested, it was okay.
>>>
>>>Brought it back home. Went to put the starter back on and noticed that
>>>one of the mounting bolts was stripped out....and, it seems that bolt
>>>is necessary for a good ground!!! I replace the bolt, used some thread
>>>lock, and it starts just fine.
>>>
>>>I also replaced the key cylinder on the ignition. $51 and about 1/2
>>>hour and the new key seems to work just fine now. It was pretty
>>>easy...I should have done that a couple of years ago!
>>>
>>>Thanks everyone for your help.
>>>
>>>Curtis wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>#1. For quite some time, I have had problems removing the key from the
>>>>
>>>>ignition. It won't turn back to the point where it can be pulled out.
>>>>Usually, after a few back and forth attempts, the key will come out.
>>>>
>>>>You may want to check the key cylinder and make sure it didn't break
>>>>internally. Does the key go to the run position then spring back as
>>>>normal? If not, that could be your issue..you'll need a T20 anti theft
>>>>torx to get at it, but that is all...oh disconnect the battery to let
>>>>the airbag discharge.
>>>>
>>>>- c
>>>
>

Jeffrey DeWitt

Cheap is good <G>

Jeff DeWitt

billy ray wrote:
> And relatively cheaply
>
> "Jeffrey DeWitt" <JeffDeWitt@nc.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:pzA0h.30$HD6.4@tornado.southeast.rr.com...
>
>>Don't you just love it when you finally get an annoying problem like this
>>figured out and FIXED once and for all?
>>
>>Jeff DeWitt
>>
>>blg wrote:
>>
>>>Okay, I think I got it! Had the started tested, it was okay.
>>>
>>>Brought it back home. Went to put the starter back on and noticed that
>>>one of the mounting bolts was stripped out....and, it seems that bolt
>>>is necessary for a good ground!!! I replace the bolt, used some thread
>>>lock, and it starts just fine.
>>>
>>>I also replaced the key cylinder on the ignition. $51 and about 1/2
>>>hour and the new key seems to work just fine now. It was pretty
>>>easy...I should have done that a couple of years ago!
>>>
>>>Thanks everyone for your help.
>>>
>>>Curtis wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>#1. For quite some time, I have had problems removing the key from the
>>>>
>>>>ignition. It won't turn back to the point where it can be pulled out.
>>>>Usually, after a few back and forth attempts, the key will come out.
>>>>
>>>>You may want to check the key cylinder and make sure it didn't break
>>>>internally. Does the key go to the run position then spring back as
>>>>normal? If not, that could be your issue..you'll need a T20 anti theft
>>>>torx to get at it, but that is all...oh disconnect the battery to let
>>>>the airbag discharge.
>>>>
>>>>- c
>>>
>