bill,
sounds like it would be less trouble to just remove tranny with engine
instead of cutting holes in floor. of course the hole will be covered by
carpet after the job is done. i hate loosening bolts that are hard to get
to. part of being a shadetree mechanic i guess. how much of a pain would
it be to take tranny out with engine?

 

bill,
sounds like it would be less trouble to just remove tranny with engine
instead of cutting holes in floor. of course the hole will be covered by
carpet after the job is done. i hate loosening bolts that are hard to get
to. part of being a shadetree mechanic i guess. how much of a pain would
it be to take tranny out with engine?

 

bill,
sounds like it would be less trouble to just remove tranny with engine
instead of cutting holes in floor. of course the hole will be covered by
carpet after the job is done. i hate loosening bolts that are hard to get
to. part of being a shadetree mechanic i guess. how much of a pain would
it be to take tranny out with engine?

 

I was about to give up on my upper seal half when it finally gave - I
was using a 4 pound hammer and a piece of brass rod long enough to
keep my fingers 'safe'. Mine finally gave and came out when I started
to work on both sides of the seal - a few whacks on one side, then hit
the other. This was a couple of years ago on an 88 and I would swear
it was the original seal. Just for reference, the brass rod was a
close fit - don't recall the exact diameter - and it had a good half
inch mushroom on the hammer end when that sucker finally broke loose.
New seal slid in slick as snot - but I did loosen the mains (pulled
them, in fact, to check the condition while I was in htere).

On Fri, 27 Aug 2004 03:01:00 UTC "JJFuray" <jjfuray@alltel.net> wrote:

> i'm having an oil leak problem that seems to be very common with this XJ
> Laredo. I changes all the engine seals except the upper rear. I was
> unable to dislodge it with hammer and brass punch. I only had one, the
> very rear, main bearing cap off though. It has been suggested in past
> string-posts that I remove even one or two more caps going forwars to
> loosen this stubborn seal. I suspect that this is the cause of the leak.
> About 1 quart a week. A slow drip at best. I even changed the oil filler
> cap. No luck. The drip is strongest where tranny meets engine and on
> very bottom of bell housing plate. I feel that the engine needs overhaul,
> although compression not checked yet. I feel it will be easier to remove
> engine with tranny and Haynes manual does not mention doing it this way.
> Any new ideas?
>
>


--
Will Honea

 

I was about to give up on my upper seal half when it finally gave - I
was using a 4 pound hammer and a piece of brass rod long enough to
keep my fingers 'safe'. Mine finally gave and came out when I started
to work on both sides of the seal - a few whacks on one side, then hit
the other. This was a couple of years ago on an 88 and I would swear
it was the original seal. Just for reference, the brass rod was a
close fit - don't recall the exact diameter - and it had a good half
inch mushroom on the hammer end when that sucker finally broke loose.
New seal slid in slick as snot - but I did loosen the mains (pulled
them, in fact, to check the condition while I was in htere).

On Fri, 27 Aug 2004 03:01:00 UTC "JJFuray" <jjfuray@alltel.net> wrote:

> i'm having an oil leak problem that seems to be very common with this XJ
> Laredo. I changes all the engine seals except the upper rear. I was
> unable to dislodge it with hammer and brass punch. I only had one, the
> very rear, main bearing cap off though. It has been suggested in past
> string-posts that I remove even one or two more caps going forwars to
> loosen this stubborn seal. I suspect that this is the cause of the leak.
> About 1 quart a week. A slow drip at best. I even changed the oil filler
> cap. No luck. The drip is strongest where tranny meets engine and on
> very bottom of bell housing plate. I feel that the engine needs overhaul,
> although compression not checked yet. I feel it will be easier to remove
> engine with tranny and Haynes manual does not mention doing it this way.
> Any new ideas?
>
>


--
Will Honea

 

I was about to give up on my upper seal half when it finally gave - I
was using a 4 pound hammer and a piece of brass rod long enough to
keep my fingers 'safe'. Mine finally gave and came out when I started
to work on both sides of the seal - a few whacks on one side, then hit
the other. This was a couple of years ago on an 88 and I would swear
it was the original seal. Just for reference, the brass rod was a
close fit - don't recall the exact diameter - and it had a good half
inch mushroom on the hammer end when that sucker finally broke loose.
New seal slid in slick as snot - but I did loosen the mains (pulled
them, in fact, to check the condition while I was in htere).

On Fri, 27 Aug 2004 03:01:00 UTC "JJFuray" <jjfuray@alltel.net> wrote:

> i'm having an oil leak problem that seems to be very common with this XJ
> Laredo. I changes all the engine seals except the upper rear. I was
> unable to dislodge it with hammer and brass punch. I only had one, the
> very rear, main bearing cap off though. It has been suggested in past
> string-posts that I remove even one or two more caps going forwars to
> loosen this stubborn seal. I suspect that this is the cause of the leak.
> About 1 quart a week. A slow drip at best. I even changed the oil filler
> cap. No luck. The drip is strongest where tranny meets engine and on
> very bottom of bell housing plate. I feel that the engine needs overhaul,
> although compression not checked yet. I feel it will be easier to remove
> engine with tranny and Haynes manual does not mention doing it this way.
> Any new ideas?
>
>


--
Will Honea

 

I have seen pictures of the whole powertrain pulled as a unit. Not too sure
of the transfer case though. :-)
You will need a lot of clearance to do it, along with a very good hoist.

I would just recommend pulling just the engine which is what I did when I
rebuilt my 88 XJ 4.0 about 5 years ago.
I think you are making the job harder if you do pull the whole powertrain
together, but to each their own!

You can get to those upper trans-engine bolts from underneath and some long
extensions.
I did mine from above, but I work on cars with less clearance! lol
Don't forget to mark the position of the torque convertor to the
driveplate!!

later,
dave AKA vwdoc1

"JJFuray" <jjfuray@alltel.net> wrote in message
news:00a0e08f5de5d0cc46edcfc9d27e8307@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Does anyone know if it's possible to remove the transmission along with
the
> engine attached. I know it's possible to do each seperate, but what a
pain
> it seems to detach tranny-to-engine bolts to divide the two! I've never
> removed an engine in this vehicle before. Will tranny come out attached
> to motor???
>

 

I have seen pictures of the whole powertrain pulled as a unit. Not too sure
of the transfer case though. :-)
You will need a lot of clearance to do it, along with a very good hoist.

I would just recommend pulling just the engine which is what I did when I
rebuilt my 88 XJ 4.0 about 5 years ago.
I think you are making the job harder if you do pull the whole powertrain
together, but to each their own!

You can get to those upper trans-engine bolts from underneath and some long
extensions.
I did mine from above, but I work on cars with less clearance! lol
Don't forget to mark the position of the torque convertor to the
driveplate!!

later,
dave AKA vwdoc1

"JJFuray" <jjfuray@alltel.net> wrote in message
news:00a0e08f5de5d0cc46edcfc9d27e8307@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Does anyone know if it's possible to remove the transmission along with
the
> engine attached. I know it's possible to do each seperate, but what a
pain
> it seems to detach tranny-to-engine bolts to divide the two! I've never
> removed an engine in this vehicle before. Will tranny come out attached
> to motor???
>

 

I have seen pictures of the whole powertrain pulled as a unit. Not too sure
of the transfer case though. :-)
You will need a lot of clearance to do it, along with a very good hoist.

I would just recommend pulling just the engine which is what I did when I
rebuilt my 88 XJ 4.0 about 5 years ago.
I think you are making the job harder if you do pull the whole powertrain
together, but to each their own!

You can get to those upper trans-engine bolts from underneath and some long
extensions.
I did mine from above, but I work on cars with less clearance! lol
Don't forget to mark the position of the torque convertor to the
driveplate!!

later,
dave AKA vwdoc1

"JJFuray" <jjfuray@alltel.net> wrote in message
news:00a0e08f5de5d0cc46edcfc9d27e8307@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Does anyone know if it's possible to remove the transmission along with
the
> engine attached. I know it's possible to do each seperate, but what a
pain
> it seems to detach tranny-to-engine bolts to divide the two! I've never
> removed an engine in this vehicle before. Will tranny come out attached
> to motor???
>