91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

I am having problems removing part of my front driver's side hub assembly on
my '91 Waggy. It's a Dana 44 6 lug without manual locking hubs.



Here is a pic of the dealer schematic:



http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/dealerSchematic.jpg



I removed the circlip / snap-ring.

Then I removed a 1" thick splined spacer ( looks like a cog as it splines
onto the axle shaft and also the axle)

Then I removed a 1" thick sleeve (doesn't seem to be shown on schematic).



http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/DSCN1920.JPG

http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/DSCN1921.JPG





Behind that is a piece of metal through which the axle shaft passes. It has
4 notches on the circumference which are chewed up.



http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg

http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer2.jpg

http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer3.jpg



I'm guessing that it is the outer locknut (item 12 on the schematic) which
is removed with the Dana 44 hub socket ? Am I right ? The notches are
either too chewed up or to small for the hub socket to fit. I guess I'll
have to drive it out with a hammer and punch/chisel.



However it also appears that I am missing a spring (item 14 on the
schematic). I'm not sure where this spring could possibly fit if it existed
as the splined spacer (item 17) was tight against its snap ring. Is the
schematic wrong or am I really missing a spring ?



Thanks for any assistance guys.

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

That schematic looks to be showing you two different versions of the
hub. One uses a spacer in place of the spring by the looks of it.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> I am having problems removing part of my front driver's side hub assembly on
> my '91 Waggy. It's a Dana 44 6 lug without manual locking hubs.
>
> Here is a pic of the dealer schematic:
>
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/dealerSchematic.jpg
>
> I removed the circlip / snap-ring.
>
> Then I removed a 1" thick splined spacer ( looks like a cog as it splines
> onto the axle shaft and also the axle)
>
> Then I removed a 1" thick sleeve (doesn't seem to be shown on schematic).
>
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/DSCN1920.JPG
>
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/DSCN1921.JPG
>
> Behind that is a piece of metal through which the axle shaft passes. It has
> 4 notches on the circumference which are chewed up.
>
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg
>
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer2.jpg
>
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer3.jpg
>
> I'm guessing that it is the outer locknut (item 12 on the schematic) which
> is removed with the Dana 44 hub socket ? Am I right ? The notches are
> either too chewed up or to small for the hub socket to fit. I guess I'll
> have to drive it out with a hammer and punch/chisel.
>
> However it also appears that I am missing a spring (item 14 on the
> schematic). I'm not sure where this spring could possibly fit if it existed
> as the splined spacer (item 17) was tight against its snap ring. Is the
> schematic wrong or am I really missing a spring ?
>
> Thanks for any assistance guys.

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

That schematic looks to be showing you two different versions of the
hub. One uses a spacer in place of the spring by the looks of it.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> I am having problems removing part of my front driver's side hub assembly on
> my '91 Waggy. It's a Dana 44 6 lug without manual locking hubs.
>
> Here is a pic of the dealer schematic:
>
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/dealerSchematic.jpg
>
> I removed the circlip / snap-ring.
>
> Then I removed a 1" thick splined spacer ( looks like a cog as it splines
> onto the axle shaft and also the axle)
>
> Then I removed a 1" thick sleeve (doesn't seem to be shown on schematic).
>
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/DSCN1920.JPG
>
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/DSCN1921.JPG
>
> Behind that is a piece of metal through which the axle shaft passes. It has
> 4 notches on the circumference which are chewed up.
>
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg
>
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer2.jpg
>
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer3.jpg
>
> I'm guessing that it is the outer locknut (item 12 on the schematic) which
> is removed with the Dana 44 hub socket ? Am I right ? The notches are
> either too chewed up or to small for the hub socket to fit. I guess I'll
> have to drive it out with a hammer and punch/chisel.
>
> However it also appears that I am missing a spring (item 14 on the
> schematic). I'm not sure where this spring could possibly fit if it existed
> as the splined spacer (item 17) was tight against its snap ring. Is the
> schematic wrong or am I really missing a spring ?
>
> Thanks for any assistance guys.

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

That schematic looks to be showing you two different versions of the
hub. One uses a spacer in place of the spring by the looks of it.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> I am having problems removing part of my front driver's side hub assembly on
> my '91 Waggy. It's a Dana 44 6 lug without manual locking hubs.
>
> Here is a pic of the dealer schematic:
>
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/dealerSchematic.jpg
>
> I removed the circlip / snap-ring.
>
> Then I removed a 1" thick splined spacer ( looks like a cog as it splines
> onto the axle shaft and also the axle)
>
> Then I removed a 1" thick sleeve (doesn't seem to be shown on schematic).
>
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/DSCN1920.JPG
>
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/DSCN1921.JPG
>
> Behind that is a piece of metal through which the axle shaft passes. It has
> 4 notches on the circumference which are chewed up.
>
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg
>
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer2.jpg
>
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer3.jpg
>
> I'm guessing that it is the outer locknut (item 12 on the schematic) which
> is removed with the Dana 44 hub socket ? Am I right ? The notches are
> either too chewed up or to small for the hub socket to fit. I guess I'll
> have to drive it out with a hammer and punch/chisel.
>
> However it also appears that I am missing a spring (item 14 on the
> schematic). I'm not sure where this spring could possibly fit if it existed
> as the splined spacer (item 17) was tight against its snap ring. Is the
> schematic wrong or am I really missing a spring ?
>
> Thanks for any assistance guys.

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

There wasn't a spacer there either - that was the strange thing.
I'm pretty confident that is the lock nut - it's on extremely tight, so I'll
have to smack it with an impact driver.

Dave

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41D01B0A.34BCA5BA@sympatico.ca...
> That schematic looks to be showing you two different versions of the
> hub. One uses a spacer in place of the spring by the looks of it.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Dave Milne wrote:
> >
> > I am having problems removing part of my front driver's side hub
assembly on
> > my '91 Waggy. It's a Dana 44 6 lug without manual locking hubs.
> >
> > Here is a pic of the dealer schematic:
> >
> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/dealerSchematic.jpg
> >
> > I removed the circlip / snap-ring.
> >
> > Then I removed a 1" thick splined spacer ( looks like a cog as it
splines
> > onto the axle shaft and also the axle)
> >
> > Then I removed a 1" thick sleeve (doesn't seem to be shown on
schematic).
> >
> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/DSCN1920.JPG
> >
> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/DSCN1921.JPG
> >
> > Behind that is a piece of metal through which the axle shaft passes. It
has
> > 4 notches on the circumference which are chewed up.
> >
> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg
> >
> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer2.jpg
> >
> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer3.jpg
> >
> > I'm guessing that it is the outer locknut (item 12 on the schematic)
which
> > is removed with the Dana 44 hub socket ? Am I right ? The notches are
> > either too chewed up or to small for the hub socket to fit. I guess I'll
> > have to drive it out with a hammer and punch/chisel.
> >
> > However it also appears that I am missing a spring (item 14 on the
> > schematic). I'm not sure where this spring could possibly fit if it
existed
> > as the splined spacer (item 17) was tight against its snap ring. Is the
> > schematic wrong or am I really missing a spring ?
> >
> > Thanks for any assistance guys.

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

There wasn't a spacer there either - that was the strange thing.
I'm pretty confident that is the lock nut - it's on extremely tight, so I'll
have to smack it with an impact driver.

Dave

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41D01B0A.34BCA5BA@sympatico.ca...
> That schematic looks to be showing you two different versions of the
> hub. One uses a spacer in place of the spring by the looks of it.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Dave Milne wrote:
> >
> > I am having problems removing part of my front driver's side hub
assembly on
> > my '91 Waggy. It's a Dana 44 6 lug without manual locking hubs.
> >
> > Here is a pic of the dealer schematic:
> >
> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/dealerSchematic.jpg
> >
> > I removed the circlip / snap-ring.
> >
> > Then I removed a 1" thick splined spacer ( looks like a cog as it
splines
> > onto the axle shaft and also the axle)
> >
> > Then I removed a 1" thick sleeve (doesn't seem to be shown on
schematic).
> >
> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/DSCN1920.JPG
> >
> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/DSCN1921.JPG
> >
> > Behind that is a piece of metal through which the axle shaft passes. It
has
> > 4 notches on the circumference which are chewed up.
> >
> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg
> >
> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer2.jpg
> >
> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer3.jpg
> >
> > I'm guessing that it is the outer locknut (item 12 on the schematic)
which
> > is removed with the Dana 44 hub socket ? Am I right ? The notches are
> > either too chewed up or to small for the hub socket to fit. I guess I'll
> > have to drive it out with a hammer and punch/chisel.
> >
> > However it also appears that I am missing a spring (item 14 on the
> > schematic). I'm not sure where this spring could possibly fit if it
existed
> > as the splined spacer (item 17) was tight against its snap ring. Is the
> > schematic wrong or am I really missing a spring ?
> >
> > Thanks for any assistance guys.

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

There wasn't a spacer there either - that was the strange thing.
I'm pretty confident that is the lock nut - it's on extremely tight, so I'll
have to smack it with an impact driver.

Dave

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41D01B0A.34BCA5BA@sympatico.ca...
> That schematic looks to be showing you two different versions of the
> hub. One uses a spacer in place of the spring by the looks of it.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Dave Milne wrote:
> >
> > I am having problems removing part of my front driver's side hub
assembly on
> > my '91 Waggy. It's a Dana 44 6 lug without manual locking hubs.
> >
> > Here is a pic of the dealer schematic:
> >
> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/dealerSchematic.jpg
> >
> > I removed the circlip / snap-ring.
> >
> > Then I removed a 1" thick splined spacer ( looks like a cog as it
splines
> > onto the axle shaft and also the axle)
> >
> > Then I removed a 1" thick sleeve (doesn't seem to be shown on
schematic).
> >
> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/DSCN1920.JPG
> >
> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/DSCN1921.JPG
> >
> > Behind that is a piece of metal through which the axle shaft passes. It
has
> > 4 notches on the circumference which are chewed up.
> >
> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg
> >
> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer2.jpg
> >
> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer3.jpg
> >
> > I'm guessing that it is the outer locknut (item 12 on the schematic)
which
> > is removed with the Dana 44 hub socket ? Am I right ? The notches are
> > either too chewed up or to small for the hub socket to fit. I guess I'll
> > have to drive it out with a hammer and punch/chisel.
> >
> > However it also appears that I am missing a spring (item 14 on the
> > schematic). I'm not sure where this spring could possibly fit if it
existed
> > as the splined spacer (item 17) was tight against its snap ring. Is the
> > schematic wrong or am I really missing a spring ?
> >
> > Thanks for any assistance guys.

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Also there are 2-3 different sizes of nuts that have been used over the
years between jeep, chevy, ford, etc. make sure you have the right sized
socket.

Jeremy


"Dave Milne" <jeep@_nospam_milne.info> wrote in message
news:JzVzd.7663$Ar5.6125@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
> There wasn't a spacer there either - that was the strange thing.
> I'm pretty confident that is the lock nut - it's on extremely tight, so
> I'll
> have to smack it with an impact driver.
>
> Dave
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41D01B0A.34BCA5BA@sympatico.ca...
>> That schematic looks to be showing you two different versions of the
>> hub. One uses a spacer in place of the spring by the looks of it.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>> Dave Milne wrote:
>> >
>> > I am having problems removing part of my front driver's side hub
> assembly on
>> > my '91 Waggy. It's a Dana 44 6 lug without manual locking hubs.
>> >
>> > Here is a pic of the dealer schematic:
>> >
>> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/dealerSchematic.jpg
>> >
>> > I removed the circlip / snap-ring.
>> >
>> > Then I removed a 1" thick splined spacer ( looks like a cog as it
> splines
>> > onto the axle shaft and also the axle)
>> >
>> > Then I removed a 1" thick sleeve (doesn't seem to be shown on
> schematic).
>> >
>> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/DSCN1920.JPG
>> >
>> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/DSCN1921.JPG
>> >
>> > Behind that is a piece of metal through which the axle shaft passes. It
> has
>> > 4 notches on the circumference which are chewed up.
>> >
>> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg
>> >
>> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer2.jpg
>> >
>> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer3.jpg
>> >
>> > I'm guessing that it is the outer locknut (item 12 on the schematic)
> which
>> > is removed with the Dana 44 hub socket ? Am I right ? The notches are
>> > either too chewed up or to small for the hub socket to fit. I guess
>> > I'll
>> > have to drive it out with a hammer and punch/chisel.
>> >
>> > However it also appears that I am missing a spring (item 14 on the
>> > schematic). I'm not sure where this spring could possibly fit if it
> existed
>> > as the splined spacer (item 17) was tight against its snap ring. Is
>> > the
>> > schematic wrong or am I really missing a spring ?
>> >
>> > Thanks for any assistance guys.
>
>

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Also there are 2-3 different sizes of nuts that have been used over the
years between jeep, chevy, ford, etc. make sure you have the right sized
socket.

Jeremy


"Dave Milne" <jeep@_nospam_milne.info> wrote in message
news:JzVzd.7663$Ar5.6125@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
> There wasn't a spacer there either - that was the strange thing.
> I'm pretty confident that is the lock nut - it's on extremely tight, so
> I'll
> have to smack it with an impact driver.
>
> Dave
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41D01B0A.34BCA5BA@sympatico.ca...
>> That schematic looks to be showing you two different versions of the
>> hub. One uses a spacer in place of the spring by the looks of it.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>> Dave Milne wrote:
>> >
>> > I am having problems removing part of my front driver's side hub
> assembly on
>> > my '91 Waggy. It's a Dana 44 6 lug without manual locking hubs.
>> >
>> > Here is a pic of the dealer schematic:
>> >
>> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/dealerSchematic.jpg
>> >
>> > I removed the circlip / snap-ring.
>> >
>> > Then I removed a 1" thick splined spacer ( looks like a cog as it
> splines
>> > onto the axle shaft and also the axle)
>> >
>> > Then I removed a 1" thick sleeve (doesn't seem to be shown on
> schematic).
>> >
>> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/DSCN1920.JPG
>> >
>> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/DSCN1921.JPG
>> >
>> > Behind that is a piece of metal through which the axle shaft passes. It
> has
>> > 4 notches on the circumference which are chewed up.
>> >
>> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg
>> >
>> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer2.jpg
>> >
>> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer3.jpg
>> >
>> > I'm guessing that it is the outer locknut (item 12 on the schematic)
> which
>> > is removed with the Dana 44 hub socket ? Am I right ? The notches are
>> > either too chewed up or to small for the hub socket to fit. I guess
>> > I'll
>> > have to drive it out with a hammer and punch/chisel.
>> >
>> > However it also appears that I am missing a spring (item 14 on the
>> > schematic). I'm not sure where this spring could possibly fit if it
> existed
>> > as the splined spacer (item 17) was tight against its snap ring. Is
>> > the
>> > schematic wrong or am I really missing a spring ?
>> >
>> > Thanks for any assistance guys.
>
>

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Also there are 2-3 different sizes of nuts that have been used over the
years between jeep, chevy, ford, etc. make sure you have the right sized
socket.

Jeremy


"Dave Milne" <jeep@_nospam_milne.info> wrote in message
news:JzVzd.7663$Ar5.6125@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
> There wasn't a spacer there either - that was the strange thing.
> I'm pretty confident that is the lock nut - it's on extremely tight, so
> I'll
> have to smack it with an impact driver.
>
> Dave
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41D01B0A.34BCA5BA@sympatico.ca...
>> That schematic looks to be showing you two different versions of the
>> hub. One uses a spacer in place of the spring by the looks of it.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>
>> Dave Milne wrote:
>> >
>> > I am having problems removing part of my front driver's side hub
> assembly on
>> > my '91 Waggy. It's a Dana 44 6 lug without manual locking hubs.
>> >
>> > Here is a pic of the dealer schematic:
>> >
>> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/dealerSchematic.jpg
>> >
>> > I removed the circlip / snap-ring.
>> >
>> > Then I removed a 1" thick splined spacer ( looks like a cog as it
> splines
>> > onto the axle shaft and also the axle)
>> >
>> > Then I removed a 1" thick sleeve (doesn't seem to be shown on
> schematic).
>> >
>> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/DSCN1920.JPG
>> >
>> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/DSCN1921.JPG
>> >
>> > Behind that is a piece of metal through which the axle shaft passes. It
> has
>> > 4 notches on the circumference which are chewed up.
>> >
>> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg
>> >
>> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer2.jpg
>> >
>> > http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer3.jpg
>> >
>> > I'm guessing that it is the outer locknut (item 12 on the schematic)
> which
>> > is removed with the Dana 44 hub socket ? Am I right ? The notches are
>> > either too chewed up or to small for the hub socket to fit. I guess
>> > I'll
>> > have to drive it out with a hammer and punch/chisel.
>> >
>> > However it also appears that I am missing a spring (item 14 on the
>> > schematic). I'm not sure where this spring could possibly fit if it
> existed
>> > as the splined spacer (item 17) was tight against its snap ring. Is
>> > the
>> > schematic wrong or am I really missing a spring ?
>> >
>> > Thanks for any assistance guys.
>
>

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Impact driver won't move it - damn that thing is on tight.
I'll have go with a steel punch tomorrow, but it is looking like a drill and
chisel job.

It also looks seriously chewed on the face - probably due to the absence of
that
spring.

Dave

"Dave Milne" <jeep@_nospam_milne.info> wrote in message
news:JzVzd.7663$Ar5.6125@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
> There wasn't a spacer there either - that was the strange thing.
> I'm pretty confident that is the lock nut - it's on extremely tight, so
I'll
> have to smack it with an impact driver.
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer2.jpg
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer3.jpg

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Impact driver won't move it - damn that thing is on tight.
I'll have go with a steel punch tomorrow, but it is looking like a drill and
chisel job.

It also looks seriously chewed on the face - probably due to the absence of
that
spring.

Dave

"Dave Milne" <jeep@_nospam_milne.info> wrote in message
news:JzVzd.7663$Ar5.6125@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
> There wasn't a spacer there either - that was the strange thing.
> I'm pretty confident that is the lock nut - it's on extremely tight, so
I'll
> have to smack it with an impact driver.
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer2.jpg
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer3.jpg

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Impact driver won't move it - damn that thing is on tight.
I'll have go with a steel punch tomorrow, but it is looking like a drill and
chisel job.

It also looks seriously chewed on the face - probably due to the absence of
that
spring.

Dave

"Dave Milne" <jeep@_nospam_milne.info> wrote in message
news:JzVzd.7663$Ar5.6125@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
> There wasn't a spacer there either - that was the strange thing.
> I'm pretty confident that is the lock nut - it's on extremely tight, so
I'll
> have to smack it with an impact driver.
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer2.jpg
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer3.jpg

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

I'm positive it is the right one, although the tool Im using was advertised
for a Ford Bronco/Wagoneer. It's a perfect fit for the replacement locknut
that the dealer supplied (marked Wagoneer), but this nut as you can see from
the photos is badly mashed , so it fits but somewhat loosely. It didn't pop
out when whacked with the impact driver. I've got a new punch to try, but
I'm convinced it's going to have to be a drill/chisel job.

Dave

"Jeremy Hupe" <jhupeSPAM@cableone.net> wrote in message
news:10t4hvf2l163mbd@corp.supernews.com...
> Also there are 2-3 different sizes of nuts that have been used over the
> years between jeep, chevy, ford, etc. make sure you have the right sized
> socket.
>
> Jeremy

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

I'm positive it is the right one, although the tool Im using was advertised
for a Ford Bronco/Wagoneer. It's a perfect fit for the replacement locknut
that the dealer supplied (marked Wagoneer), but this nut as you can see from
the photos is badly mashed , so it fits but somewhat loosely. It didn't pop
out when whacked with the impact driver. I've got a new punch to try, but
I'm convinced it's going to have to be a drill/chisel job.

Dave

"Jeremy Hupe" <jhupeSPAM@cableone.net> wrote in message
news:10t4hvf2l163mbd@corp.supernews.com...
> Also there are 2-3 different sizes of nuts that have been used over the
> years between jeep, chevy, ford, etc. make sure you have the right sized
> socket.
>
> Jeremy

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

I'm positive it is the right one, although the tool Im using was advertised
for a Ford Bronco/Wagoneer. It's a perfect fit for the replacement locknut
that the dealer supplied (marked Wagoneer), but this nut as you can see from
the photos is badly mashed , so it fits but somewhat loosely. It didn't pop
out when whacked with the impact driver. I've got a new punch to try, but
I'm convinced it's going to have to be a drill/chisel job.

Dave

"Jeremy Hupe" <jhupeSPAM@cableone.net> wrote in message
news:10t4hvf2l163mbd@corp.supernews.com...
> Also there are 2-3 different sizes of nuts that have been used over the
> years between jeep, chevy, ford, etc. make sure you have the right sized
> socket.
>
> Jeremy

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Hi Dave,
I'm not understanding your problem, the outer lock nut is just over
finger tight, if we torqued it much tighter, say at ten pounds would
shear the little interlocking pin that sits crossways in the keyed
washer between the nuts: http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Mr.N44.htm
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> I'm positive it is the right one, although the tool Im using was advertised
> for a Ford Bronco/Wagoneer. It's a perfect fit for the replacement locknut
> that the dealer supplied (marked Wagoneer), but this nut as you can see from
> the photos is badly mashed , so it fits but somewhat loosely. It didn't pop
> out when whacked with the impact driver. I've got a new punch to try, but
> I'm convinced it's going to have to be a drill/chisel job.
>
> Dave
>
> "Jeremy Hupe" <jhupeSPAM@cableone.net> wrote in message
> news:10t4hvf2l163mbd@corp.supernews.com...
> > Also there are 2-3 different sizes of nuts that have been used over the
> > years between jeep, chevy, ford, etc. make sure you have the right sized
> > socket.
> >
> > Jeremy

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Hi Dave,
I'm not understanding your problem, the outer lock nut is just over
finger tight, if we torqued it much tighter, say at ten pounds would
shear the little interlocking pin that sits crossways in the keyed
washer between the nuts: http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Mr.N44.htm
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> I'm positive it is the right one, although the tool Im using was advertised
> for a Ford Bronco/Wagoneer. It's a perfect fit for the replacement locknut
> that the dealer supplied (marked Wagoneer), but this nut as you can see from
> the photos is badly mashed , so it fits but somewhat loosely. It didn't pop
> out when whacked with the impact driver. I've got a new punch to try, but
> I'm convinced it's going to have to be a drill/chisel job.
>
> Dave
>
> "Jeremy Hupe" <jhupeSPAM@cableone.net> wrote in message
> news:10t4hvf2l163mbd@corp.supernews.com...
> > Also there are 2-3 different sizes of nuts that have been used over the
> > years between jeep, chevy, ford, etc. make sure you have the right sized
> > socket.
> >
> > Jeremy

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Hi Dave,
I'm not understanding your problem, the outer lock nut is just over
finger tight, if we torqued it much tighter, say at ten pounds would
shear the little interlocking pin that sits crossways in the keyed
washer between the nuts: http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Mr.N44.htm
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> I'm positive it is the right one, although the tool Im using was advertised
> for a Ford Bronco/Wagoneer. It's a perfect fit for the replacement locknut
> that the dealer supplied (marked Wagoneer), but this nut as you can see from
> the photos is badly mashed , so it fits but somewhat loosely. It didn't pop
> out when whacked with the impact driver. I've got a new punch to try, but
> I'm convinced it's going to have to be a drill/chisel job.
>
> Dave
>
> "Jeremy Hupe" <jhupeSPAM@cableone.net> wrote in message
> news:10t4hvf2l163mbd@corp.supernews.com...
> > Also there are 2-3 different sizes of nuts that have been used over the
> > years between jeep, chevy, ford, etc. make sure you have the right sized
> > socket.
> >
> > Jeremy

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Bill,
Thanks for the link - always good to see another few photos.

Yes, you understood me - it is the outer locknut is the one I can't remove.

The part in your link says "A screw driver is placed in the reses of the
nut, and a hammer hits it. This is done several times to losen the nut
untill removed.Tip: Buy a Axle Nut socket if your doing this more and a
couple times"

If you look in my link ( http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg ) you
will see how chewed up it is with someone else's efforts with screw drivers
and hammers. Also, something has worn the crap out of the face of it (
compare it to the one in your link
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/images...nut_washer.jpg )
..
Well, I've got the tool and it ain't budging. Not even with an impact driver
on the socket, and I hit it hard.

btw, I thought it was the *inner* locknut that has the pin that locates in
the "axle nut washer" ?

Dave



"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:41D338D7.30C9CF88@cox.net...
> Hi Dave,
> I'm not understanding your problem, the outer lock nut is just over
> finger tight, if we torqued it much tighter, say at ten pounds would
> shear the little interlocking pin that sits crossways in the keyed
> washer between the nuts: http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Mr.N44.htm
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Dave Milne wrote:
> >
> > I'm positive it is the right one, although the tool Im using was
advertised
> > for a Ford Bronco/Wagoneer. It's a perfect fit for the replacement
locknut
> > that the dealer supplied (marked Wagoneer), but this nut as you can see
from
> > the photos is badly mashed , so it fits but somewhat loosely. It didn't
pop
> > out when whacked with the impact driver. I've got a new punch to try,
but
> > I'm convinced it's going to have to be a drill/chisel job.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > "Jeremy Hupe" <jhupeSPAM@cableone.net> wrote in message
> > news:10t4hvf2l163mbd@corp.supernews.com...
> > > Also there are 2-3 different sizes of nuts that have been used over
the
> > > years between jeep, chevy, ford, etc. make sure you have the right
sized
> > > socket.
> > >
> > > Jeremy

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Bill,
Thanks for the link - always good to see another few photos.

Yes, you understood me - it is the outer locknut is the one I can't remove.

The part in your link says "A screw driver is placed in the reses of the
nut, and a hammer hits it. This is done several times to losen the nut
untill removed.Tip: Buy a Axle Nut socket if your doing this more and a
couple times"

If you look in my link ( http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg ) you
will see how chewed up it is with someone else's efforts with screw drivers
and hammers. Also, something has worn the crap out of the face of it (
compare it to the one in your link
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/images...nut_washer.jpg )
..
Well, I've got the tool and it ain't budging. Not even with an impact driver
on the socket, and I hit it hard.

btw, I thought it was the *inner* locknut that has the pin that locates in
the "axle nut washer" ?

Dave



"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:41D338D7.30C9CF88@cox.net...
> Hi Dave,
> I'm not understanding your problem, the outer lock nut is just over
> finger tight, if we torqued it much tighter, say at ten pounds would
> shear the little interlocking pin that sits crossways in the keyed
> washer between the nuts: http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Mr.N44.htm
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Dave Milne wrote:
> >
> > I'm positive it is the right one, although the tool Im using was
advertised
> > for a Ford Bronco/Wagoneer. It's a perfect fit for the replacement
locknut
> > that the dealer supplied (marked Wagoneer), but this nut as you can see
from
> > the photos is badly mashed , so it fits but somewhat loosely. It didn't
pop
> > out when whacked with the impact driver. I've got a new punch to try,
but
> > I'm convinced it's going to have to be a drill/chisel job.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > "Jeremy Hupe" <jhupeSPAM@cableone.net> wrote in message
> > news:10t4hvf2l163mbd@corp.supernews.com...
> > > Also there are 2-3 different sizes of nuts that have been used over
the
> > > years between jeep, chevy, ford, etc. make sure you have the right
sized
> > > socket.
> > >
> > > Jeremy

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Bill,
Thanks for the link - always good to see another few photos.

Yes, you understood me - it is the outer locknut is the one I can't remove.

The part in your link says "A screw driver is placed in the reses of the
nut, and a hammer hits it. This is done several times to losen the nut
untill removed.Tip: Buy a Axle Nut socket if your doing this more and a
couple times"

If you look in my link ( http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg ) you
will see how chewed up it is with someone else's efforts with screw drivers
and hammers. Also, something has worn the crap out of the face of it (
compare it to the one in your link
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/images...nut_washer.jpg )
..
Well, I've got the tool and it ain't budging. Not even with an impact driver
on the socket, and I hit it hard.

btw, I thought it was the *inner* locknut that has the pin that locates in
the "axle nut washer" ?

Dave



"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:41D338D7.30C9CF88@cox.net...
> Hi Dave,
> I'm not understanding your problem, the outer lock nut is just over
> finger tight, if we torqued it much tighter, say at ten pounds would
> shear the little interlocking pin that sits crossways in the keyed
> washer between the nuts: http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Mr.N44.htm
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Dave Milne wrote:
> >
> > I'm positive it is the right one, although the tool Im using was
advertised
> > for a Ford Bronco/Wagoneer. It's a perfect fit for the replacement
locknut
> > that the dealer supplied (marked Wagoneer), but this nut as you can see
from
> > the photos is badly mashed , so it fits but somewhat loosely. It didn't
pop
> > out when whacked with the impact driver. I've got a new punch to try,
but
> > I'm convinced it's going to have to be a drill/chisel job.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > "Jeremy Hupe" <jhupeSPAM@cableone.net> wrote in message
> > news:10t4hvf2l163mbd@corp.supernews.com...
> > > Also there are 2-3 different sizes of nuts that have been used over
the
> > > years between jeep, chevy, ford, etc. make sure you have the right
sized
> > > socket.
> > >
> > > Jeremy

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

You are just going to have to get a bigger hammer. Seriously! You need
a BFH to get it started, it looks to be friction spun to the point of
crushing the bearing cage. A 2.5 or even a 5lb BFH comes to mind.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> Bill,
> Thanks for the link - always good to see another few photos.
>
> Yes, you understood me - it is the outer locknut is the one I can't remove.
>
> The part in your link says "A screw driver is placed in the reses of the
> nut, and a hammer hits it. This is done several times to losen the nut
> untill removed.Tip: Buy a Axle Nut socket if your doing this more and a
> couple times"
>
> If you look in my link ( http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg ) you
> will see how chewed up it is with someone else's efforts with screw drivers
> and hammers. Also, something has worn the crap out of the face of it (
> compare it to the one in your link
> http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/images...nut_washer.jpg )
> .
> Well, I've got the tool and it ain't budging. Not even with an impact driver
> on the socket, and I hit it hard.
>
> btw, I thought it was the *inner* locknut that has the pin that locates in
> the "axle nut washer" ?
>
> Dave
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:41D338D7.30C9CF88@cox.net...
> > Hi Dave,
> > I'm not understanding your problem, the outer lock nut is just over
> > finger tight, if we torqued it much tighter, say at ten pounds would
> > shear the little interlocking pin that sits crossways in the keyed
> > washer between the nuts: http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Mr.N44.htm
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Dave Milne wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm positive it is the right one, although the tool Im using was
> advertised
> > > for a Ford Bronco/Wagoneer. It's a perfect fit for the replacement
> locknut
> > > that the dealer supplied (marked Wagoneer), but this nut as you can see
> from
> > > the photos is badly mashed , so it fits but somewhat loosely. It didn't
> pop
> > > out when whacked with the impact driver. I've got a new punch to try,
> but
> > > I'm convinced it's going to have to be a drill/chisel job.
> > >
> > > Dave
> > >
> > > "Jeremy Hupe" <jhupeSPAM@cableone.net> wrote in message
> > > news:10t4hvf2l163mbd@corp.supernews.com...
> > > > Also there are 2-3 different sizes of nuts that have been used over
> the
> > > > years between jeep, chevy, ford, etc. make sure you have the right
> sized
> > > > socket.
> > > >
> > > > Jeremy

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

You are just going to have to get a bigger hammer. Seriously! You need
a BFH to get it started, it looks to be friction spun to the point of
crushing the bearing cage. A 2.5 or even a 5lb BFH comes to mind.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> Bill,
> Thanks for the link - always good to see another few photos.
>
> Yes, you understood me - it is the outer locknut is the one I can't remove.
>
> The part in your link says "A screw driver is placed in the reses of the
> nut, and a hammer hits it. This is done several times to losen the nut
> untill removed.Tip: Buy a Axle Nut socket if your doing this more and a
> couple times"
>
> If you look in my link ( http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg ) you
> will see how chewed up it is with someone else's efforts with screw drivers
> and hammers. Also, something has worn the crap out of the face of it (
> compare it to the one in your link
> http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/images...nut_washer.jpg )
> .
> Well, I've got the tool and it ain't budging. Not even with an impact driver
> on the socket, and I hit it hard.
>
> btw, I thought it was the *inner* locknut that has the pin that locates in
> the "axle nut washer" ?
>
> Dave
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:41D338D7.30C9CF88@cox.net...
> > Hi Dave,
> > I'm not understanding your problem, the outer lock nut is just over
> > finger tight, if we torqued it much tighter, say at ten pounds would
> > shear the little interlocking pin that sits crossways in the keyed
> > washer between the nuts: http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Mr.N44.htm
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Dave Milne wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm positive it is the right one, although the tool Im using was
> advertised
> > > for a Ford Bronco/Wagoneer. It's a perfect fit for the replacement
> locknut
> > > that the dealer supplied (marked Wagoneer), but this nut as you can see
> from
> > > the photos is badly mashed , so it fits but somewhat loosely. It didn't
> pop
> > > out when whacked with the impact driver. I've got a new punch to try,
> but
> > > I'm convinced it's going to have to be a drill/chisel job.
> > >
> > > Dave
> > >
> > > "Jeremy Hupe" <jhupeSPAM@cableone.net> wrote in message
> > > news:10t4hvf2l163mbd@corp.supernews.com...
> > > > Also there are 2-3 different sizes of nuts that have been used over
> the
> > > > years between jeep, chevy, ford, etc. make sure you have the right
> sized
> > > > socket.
> > > >
> > > > Jeremy

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

You are just going to have to get a bigger hammer. Seriously! You need
a BFH to get it started, it looks to be friction spun to the point of
crushing the bearing cage. A 2.5 or even a 5lb BFH comes to mind.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> Bill,
> Thanks for the link - always good to see another few photos.
>
> Yes, you understood me - it is the outer locknut is the one I can't remove.
>
> The part in your link says "A screw driver is placed in the reses of the
> nut, and a hammer hits it. This is done several times to losen the nut
> untill removed.Tip: Buy a Axle Nut socket if your doing this more and a
> couple times"
>
> If you look in my link ( http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg ) you
> will see how chewed up it is with someone else's efforts with screw drivers
> and hammers. Also, something has worn the crap out of the face of it (
> compare it to the one in your link
> http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/images...nut_washer.jpg )
> .
> Well, I've got the tool and it ain't budging. Not even with an impact driver
> on the socket, and I hit it hard.
>
> btw, I thought it was the *inner* locknut that has the pin that locates in
> the "axle nut washer" ?
>
> Dave
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:41D338D7.30C9CF88@cox.net...
> > Hi Dave,
> > I'm not understanding your problem, the outer lock nut is just over
> > finger tight, if we torqued it much tighter, say at ten pounds would
> > shear the little interlocking pin that sits crossways in the keyed
> > washer between the nuts: http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Mr.N44.htm
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Dave Milne wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm positive it is the right one, although the tool Im using was
> advertised
> > > for a Ford Bronco/Wagoneer. It's a perfect fit for the replacement
> locknut
> > > that the dealer supplied (marked Wagoneer), but this nut as you can see
> from
> > > the photos is badly mashed , so it fits but somewhat loosely. It didn't
> pop
> > > out when whacked with the impact driver. I've got a new punch to try,
> but
> > > I'm convinced it's going to have to be a drill/chisel job.
> > >
> > > Dave
> > >
> > > "Jeremy Hupe" <jhupeSPAM@cableone.net> wrote in message
> > > news:10t4hvf2l163mbd@corp.supernews.com...
> > > > Also there are 2-3 different sizes of nuts that have been used over
> the
> > > > years between jeep, chevy, ford, etc. make sure you have the right
> sized
> > > > socket.
> > > >
> > > > Jeremy

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

How much air pressure are you using for the air hammer, try increasing air
pressure to as much as possible.
"Dave Milne" <jeep@_nospam_milne.info> wrote in message
news:BxEAd.84205$ef5.62245@fe1.news.blueyonder.co. uk...
> Impact driver won't move it - damn that thing is on tight.
> I'll have go with a steel punch tomorrow, but it is looking like a drill
> and
> chisel job.
>
> It also looks seriously chewed on the face - probably due to the absence
> of
> that
> spring.
>
> Dave
>
> "Dave Milne" <jeep@_nospam_milne.info> wrote in message
> news:JzVzd.7663$Ar5.6125@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
>> There wasn't a spacer there either - that was the strange thing.
>> I'm pretty confident that is the lock nut - it's on extremely tight, so
> I'll
>> have to smack it with an impact driver.
>> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg
>> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer2.jpg
>> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer3.jpg
>
>

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

How much air pressure are you using for the air hammer, try increasing air
pressure to as much as possible.
"Dave Milne" <jeep@_nospam_milne.info> wrote in message
news:BxEAd.84205$ef5.62245@fe1.news.blueyonder.co. uk...
> Impact driver won't move it - damn that thing is on tight.
> I'll have go with a steel punch tomorrow, but it is looking like a drill
> and
> chisel job.
>
> It also looks seriously chewed on the face - probably due to the absence
> of
> that
> spring.
>
> Dave
>
> "Dave Milne" <jeep@_nospam_milne.info> wrote in message
> news:JzVzd.7663$Ar5.6125@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
>> There wasn't a spacer there either - that was the strange thing.
>> I'm pretty confident that is the lock nut - it's on extremely tight, so
> I'll
>> have to smack it with an impact driver.
>> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg
>> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer2.jpg
>> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer3.jpg
>
>

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

How much air pressure are you using for the air hammer, try increasing air
pressure to as much as possible.
"Dave Milne" <jeep@_nospam_milne.info> wrote in message
news:BxEAd.84205$ef5.62245@fe1.news.blueyonder.co. uk...
> Impact driver won't move it - damn that thing is on tight.
> I'll have go with a steel punch tomorrow, but it is looking like a drill
> and
> chisel job.
>
> It also looks seriously chewed on the face - probably due to the absence
> of
> that
> spring.
>
> Dave
>
> "Dave Milne" <jeep@_nospam_milne.info> wrote in message
> news:JzVzd.7663$Ar5.6125@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
>> There wasn't a spacer there either - that was the strange thing.
>> I'm pretty confident that is the lock nut - it's on extremely tight, so
> I'll
>> have to smack it with an impact driver.
>> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg
>> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer2.jpg
>> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer3.jpg
>
>

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Hi Dave,
Bummer, that does look bad. I had a spindle crack and bend up,
loosening the bearings, making the snap ring and inner spline that the
lock ring slides on, the only thing holding the wheel. Which in your
case must be turning with the wheel and wearing into yours. I still
can't image it peed enough to lock up, though. I have had to take a
torch and cut the nut and race off a couple of two wheel drive cars.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> Bill,
> Thanks for the link - always good to see another few photos.
>
> Yes, you understood me - it is the outer locknut is the one I can't remove.
>
> The part in your link says "A screw driver is placed in the reses of the
> nut, and a hammer hits it. This is done several times to losen the nut
> untill removed.Tip: Buy a Axle Nut socket if your doing this more and a
> couple times"
>
> If you look in my link ( http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg ) you
> will see how chewed up it is with someone else's efforts with screw drivers
> and hammers. Also, something has worn the crap out of the face of it (
> compare it to the one in your link
> http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/images...nut_washer.jpg )
> .
> Well, I've got the tool and it ain't budging. Not even with an impact driver
> on the socket, and I hit it hard.
>
> btw, I thought it was the *inner* locknut that has the pin that locates in
> the "axle nut washer" ?
>
> Dave
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:41D338D7.30C9CF88@cox.net...
> > Hi Dave,
> > I'm not understanding your problem, the outer lock nut is just over
> > finger tight, if we torqued it much tighter, say at ten pounds would
> > shear the little interlocking pin that sits crossways in the keyed
> > washer between the nuts: http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Mr.N44.htm
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Dave Milne wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm positive it is the right one, although the tool Im using was
> advertised
> > > for a Ford Bronco/Wagoneer. It's a perfect fit for the replacement
> locknut
> > > that the dealer supplied (marked Wagoneer), but this nut as you can see
> from
> > > the photos is badly mashed , so it fits but somewhat loosely. It didn't
> pop
> > > out when whacked with the impact driver. I've got a new punch to try,
> but
> > > I'm convinced it's going to have to be a drill/chisel job.
> > >
> > > Dave
> > >
> > > "Jeremy Hupe" <jhupeSPAM@cableone.net> wrote in message
> > > news:10t4hvf2l163mbd@corp.supernews.com...
> > > > Also there are 2-3 different sizes of nuts that have been used over
> the
> > > > years between jeep, chevy, ford, etc. make sure you have the right
> sized
> > > > socket.
> > > >
> > > > Jeremy

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Hi Dave,
Bummer, that does look bad. I had a spindle crack and bend up,
loosening the bearings, making the snap ring and inner spline that the
lock ring slides on, the only thing holding the wheel. Which in your
case must be turning with the wheel and wearing into yours. I still
can't image it peed enough to lock up, though. I have had to take a
torch and cut the nut and race off a couple of two wheel drive cars.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> Bill,
> Thanks for the link - always good to see another few photos.
>
> Yes, you understood me - it is the outer locknut is the one I can't remove.
>
> The part in your link says "A screw driver is placed in the reses of the
> nut, and a hammer hits it. This is done several times to losen the nut
> untill removed.Tip: Buy a Axle Nut socket if your doing this more and a
> couple times"
>
> If you look in my link ( http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg ) you
> will see how chewed up it is with someone else's efforts with screw drivers
> and hammers. Also, something has worn the crap out of the face of it (
> compare it to the one in your link
> http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/images...nut_washer.jpg )
> .
> Well, I've got the tool and it ain't budging. Not even with an impact driver
> on the socket, and I hit it hard.
>
> btw, I thought it was the *inner* locknut that has the pin that locates in
> the "axle nut washer" ?
>
> Dave
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:41D338D7.30C9CF88@cox.net...
> > Hi Dave,
> > I'm not understanding your problem, the outer lock nut is just over
> > finger tight, if we torqued it much tighter, say at ten pounds would
> > shear the little interlocking pin that sits crossways in the keyed
> > washer between the nuts: http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Mr.N44.htm
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Dave Milne wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm positive it is the right one, although the tool Im using was
> advertised
> > > for a Ford Bronco/Wagoneer. It's a perfect fit for the replacement
> locknut
> > > that the dealer supplied (marked Wagoneer), but this nut as you can see
> from
> > > the photos is badly mashed , so it fits but somewhat loosely. It didn't
> pop
> > > out when whacked with the impact driver. I've got a new punch to try,
> but
> > > I'm convinced it's going to have to be a drill/chisel job.
> > >
> > > Dave
> > >
> > > "Jeremy Hupe" <jhupeSPAM@cableone.net> wrote in message
> > > news:10t4hvf2l163mbd@corp.supernews.com...
> > > > Also there are 2-3 different sizes of nuts that have been used over
> the
> > > > years between jeep, chevy, ford, etc. make sure you have the right
> sized
> > > > socket.
> > > >
> > > > Jeremy

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Hi Dave,
Bummer, that does look bad. I had a spindle crack and bend up,
loosening the bearings, making the snap ring and inner spline that the
lock ring slides on, the only thing holding the wheel. Which in your
case must be turning with the wheel and wearing into yours. I still
can't image it peed enough to lock up, though. I have had to take a
torch and cut the nut and race off a couple of two wheel drive cars.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> Bill,
> Thanks for the link - always good to see another few photos.
>
> Yes, you understood me - it is the outer locknut is the one I can't remove.
>
> The part in your link says "A screw driver is placed in the reses of the
> nut, and a hammer hits it. This is done several times to losen the nut
> untill removed.Tip: Buy a Axle Nut socket if your doing this more and a
> couple times"
>
> If you look in my link ( http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/retainer1.jpg ) you
> will see how chewed up it is with someone else's efforts with screw drivers
> and hammers. Also, something has worn the crap out of the face of it (
> compare it to the one in your link
> http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/images...nut_washer.jpg )
> .
> Well, I've got the tool and it ain't budging. Not even with an impact driver
> on the socket, and I hit it hard.
>
> btw, I thought it was the *inner* locknut that has the pin that locates in
> the "axle nut washer" ?
>
> Dave
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:41D338D7.30C9CF88@cox.net...
> > Hi Dave,
> > I'm not understanding your problem, the outer lock nut is just over
> > finger tight, if we torqued it much tighter, say at ten pounds would
> > shear the little interlocking pin that sits crossways in the keyed
> > washer between the nuts: http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Mr.N44.htm
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Dave Milne wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm positive it is the right one, although the tool Im using was
> advertised
> > > for a Ford Bronco/Wagoneer. It's a perfect fit for the replacement
> locknut
> > > that the dealer supplied (marked Wagoneer), but this nut as you can see
> from
> > > the photos is badly mashed , so it fits but somewhat loosely. It didn't
> pop
> > > out when whacked with the impact driver. I've got a new punch to try,
> but
> > > I'm convinced it's going to have to be a drill/chisel job.
> > >
> > > Dave
> > >
> > > "Jeremy Hupe" <jhupeSPAM@cableone.net> wrote in message
> > > news:10t4hvf2l163mbd@corp.supernews.com...
> > > > Also there are 2-3 different sizes of nuts that have been used over
> the
> > > > years between jeep, chevy, ford, etc. make sure you have the right
> sized
> > > > socket.
> > > >
> > > > Jeremy

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Maybe switch to a cheater bar, as the socket is so big it'll take
up most of the energy of an impact.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

mike92105 wrote:
>
> How much air pressure are you using for the air hammer, try increasing air
> pressure to as much as possible.

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Maybe switch to a cheater bar, as the socket is so big it'll take
up most of the energy of an impact.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

mike92105 wrote:
>
> How much air pressure are you using for the air hammer, try increasing air
> pressure to as much as possible.

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Maybe switch to a cheater bar, as the socket is so big it'll take
up most of the energy of an impact.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

mike92105 wrote:
>
> How much air pressure are you using for the air hammer, try increasing air
> pressure to as much as possible.

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Got it off with a BGF and a steel punch. It was on so tight, that it died a
horrible
death rather than unscrew:
http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/brokenLocknut_40.JPG

The last piece of the 4 hung on so tenaciously, that it required a chisel.

Will continue tomorrow (it gets fully dark at 4pm here and starts getting
dark about 3:15pm).
I suspect the hub thread might be chewed, but I'll wait until I've got the
whole thing off and cleaned. I wouldn't count on being able to get another
hub inside 2 weeks ; probably a special order from the US or DCs Belgian
warehouse.

Dave Milne



"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:41D39B77.4925CF10@cox.net...
> Maybe switch to a cheater bar, as the socket is so big it'll take
> up most of the energy of an impact.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> mike92105 wrote:
> >
> > How much air pressure are you using for the air hammer, try increasing
air
> > pressure to as much as possible.

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Got it off with a BGF and a steel punch. It was on so tight, that it died a
horrible
death rather than unscrew:
http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/brokenLocknut_40.JPG

The last piece of the 4 hung on so tenaciously, that it required a chisel.

Will continue tomorrow (it gets fully dark at 4pm here and starts getting
dark about 3:15pm).
I suspect the hub thread might be chewed, but I'll wait until I've got the
whole thing off and cleaned. I wouldn't count on being able to get another
hub inside 2 weeks ; probably a special order from the US or DCs Belgian
warehouse.

Dave Milne



"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:41D39B77.4925CF10@cox.net...
> Maybe switch to a cheater bar, as the socket is so big it'll take
> up most of the energy of an impact.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> mike92105 wrote:
> >
> > How much air pressure are you using for the air hammer, try increasing
air
> > pressure to as much as possible.

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Got it off with a BGF and a steel punch. It was on so tight, that it died a
horrible
death rather than unscrew:
http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/brokenLocknut_40.JPG

The last piece of the 4 hung on so tenaciously, that it required a chisel.

Will continue tomorrow (it gets fully dark at 4pm here and starts getting
dark about 3:15pm).
I suspect the hub thread might be chewed, but I'll wait until I've got the
whole thing off and cleaned. I wouldn't count on being able to get another
hub inside 2 weeks ; probably a special order from the US or DCs Belgian
warehouse.

Dave Milne



"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@cox.net> wrote in message
news:41D39B77.4925CF10@cox.net...
> Maybe switch to a cheater bar, as the socket is so big it'll take
> up most of the energy of an impact.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> mike92105 wrote:
> >
> > How much air pressure are you using for the air hammer, try increasing
air
> > pressure to as much as possible.

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Hi Dave,
Check the bone yards around US Military bases for their dependent's
wrecks and take the guts out of any Ford, GM, or Dodge.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> Got it off with a BGF and a steel punch. It was on so tight, that it died a
> horrible
> death rather than unscrew:
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/brokenLocknut_40.JPG
>
> The last piece of the 4 hung on so tenaciously, that it required a chisel.
>
> Will continue tomorrow (it gets fully dark at 4pm here and starts getting
> dark about 3:15pm).
> I suspect the hub thread might be chewed, but I'll wait until I've got the
> whole thing off and cleaned. I wouldn't count on being able to get another
> hub inside 2 weeks ; probably a special order from the US or DCs Belgian
> warehouse.
>
> Dave Milne

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Hi Dave,
Check the bone yards around US Military bases for their dependent's
wrecks and take the guts out of any Ford, GM, or Dodge.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> Got it off with a BGF and a steel punch. It was on so tight, that it died a
> horrible
> death rather than unscrew:
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/brokenLocknut_40.JPG
>
> The last piece of the 4 hung on so tenaciously, that it required a chisel.
>
> Will continue tomorrow (it gets fully dark at 4pm here and starts getting
> dark about 3:15pm).
> I suspect the hub thread might be chewed, but I'll wait until I've got the
> whole thing off and cleaned. I wouldn't count on being able to get another
> hub inside 2 weeks ; probably a special order from the US or DCs Belgian
> warehouse.
>
> Dave Milne

Re: 91 Wagoneer Wheel bearing replacement problems
 

Hi Dave,
Check the bone yards around US Military bases for their dependent's
wrecks and take the guts out of any Ford, GM, or Dodge.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Dave Milne wrote:
>
> Got it off with a BGF and a steel punch. It was on so tight, that it died a
> horrible
> death rather than unscrew:
> http://www.brintsoft.com/dave/brokenLocknut_40.JPG
>
> The last piece of the 4 hung on so tenaciously, that it required a chisel.
>
> Will continue tomorrow (it gets fully dark at 4pm here and starts getting
> dark about 3:15pm).
> I suspect the hub thread might be chewed, but I'll wait until I've got the
> whole thing off and cleaned. I wouldn't count on being able to get another
> hub inside 2 weeks ; probably a special order from the US or DCs Belgian
> warehouse.
>
> Dave Milne