91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish
to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at
either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so
the barb wore through.
For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at
the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps
that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm
gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp.
'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe
someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut
edges will wear right through the line again.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
clay wrote:
> Girlfriendzillas Jeep again.
> The rubber hose that runs between hard lines has a hole rubbed in it
> right up next to the fitting at the transmission end.
> The radiator end appears to have a quick disconnect type fitting to the
> hard line but the transmission end looks crimped. Can't see it very
> well, is it crimped or quick disconnect?
> Might be enough room to cut it right over the hole, stick a hose barb in
> it and get a couple hose clamps on it. Or I grind the crimp off, trim
> the hose and hose clamp it back on.
> Or, I fix it the right way..?
> What is the correct way to fix it?
> Thanks!
> Clay
>
to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at
either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so
the barb wore through.
For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at
the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps
that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm
gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp.
'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe
someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut
edges will wear right through the line again.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
clay wrote:
> Girlfriendzillas Jeep again.
> The rubber hose that runs between hard lines has a hole rubbed in it
> right up next to the fitting at the transmission end.
> The radiator end appears to have a quick disconnect type fitting to the
> hard line but the transmission end looks crimped. Can't see it very
> well, is it crimped or quick disconnect?
> Might be enough room to cut it right over the hole, stick a hose barb in
> it and get a couple hose clamps on it. Or I grind the crimp off, trim
> the hose and hose clamp it back on.
> Or, I fix it the right way..?
> What is the correct way to fix it?
> Thanks!
> Clay
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish
to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at
either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so
the barb wore through.
For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at
the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps
that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm
gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp.
'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe
someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut
edges will wear right through the line again.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
clay wrote:
> Girlfriendzillas Jeep again.
> The rubber hose that runs between hard lines has a hole rubbed in it
> right up next to the fitting at the transmission end.
> The radiator end appears to have a quick disconnect type fitting to the
> hard line but the transmission end looks crimped. Can't see it very
> well, is it crimped or quick disconnect?
> Might be enough room to cut it right over the hole, stick a hose barb in
> it and get a couple hose clamps on it. Or I grind the crimp off, trim
> the hose and hose clamp it back on.
> Or, I fix it the right way..?
> What is the correct way to fix it?
> Thanks!
> Clay
>
to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at
either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so
the barb wore through.
For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at
the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps
that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm
gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp.
'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe
someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut
edges will wear right through the line again.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
clay wrote:
> Girlfriendzillas Jeep again.
> The rubber hose that runs between hard lines has a hole rubbed in it
> right up next to the fitting at the transmission end.
> The radiator end appears to have a quick disconnect type fitting to the
> hard line but the transmission end looks crimped. Can't see it very
> well, is it crimped or quick disconnect?
> Might be enough room to cut it right over the hole, stick a hose barb in
> it and get a couple hose clamps on it. Or I grind the crimp off, trim
> the hose and hose clamp it back on.
> Or, I fix it the right way..?
> What is the correct way to fix it?
> Thanks!
> Clay
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish
to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at
either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so
the barb wore through.
For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at
the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps
that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm
gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp.
'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe
someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut
edges will wear right through the line again.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
clay wrote:
> Girlfriendzillas Jeep again.
> The rubber hose that runs between hard lines has a hole rubbed in it
> right up next to the fitting at the transmission end.
> The radiator end appears to have a quick disconnect type fitting to the
> hard line but the transmission end looks crimped. Can't see it very
> well, is it crimped or quick disconnect?
> Might be enough room to cut it right over the hole, stick a hose barb in
> it and get a couple hose clamps on it. Or I grind the crimp off, trim
> the hose and hose clamp it back on.
> Or, I fix it the right way..?
> What is the correct way to fix it?
> Thanks!
> Clay
>
to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at
either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so
the barb wore through.
For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at
the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps
that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm
gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp.
'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe
someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut
edges will wear right through the line again.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
clay wrote:
> Girlfriendzillas Jeep again.
> The rubber hose that runs between hard lines has a hole rubbed in it
> right up next to the fitting at the transmission end.
> The radiator end appears to have a quick disconnect type fitting to the
> hard line but the transmission end looks crimped. Can't see it very
> well, is it crimped or quick disconnect?
> Might be enough room to cut it right over the hole, stick a hose barb in
> it and get a couple hose clamps on it. Or I grind the crimp off, trim
> the hose and hose clamp it back on.
> Or, I fix it the right way..?
> What is the correct way to fix it?
> Thanks!
> Clay
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
Mike Romain wrote:
> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish
> to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at
> either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so
> the barb wore through.
>
> For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at
> the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps
> that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm
> gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp.
>
> 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe
> someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut
> edges will wear right through the line again.
>
I see why it rubbed through.
Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up
Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids.
Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that
holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have
removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it
might have. Who knows...
Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing
the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was
touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough
friction to wear it through.
I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping
around within an inch of it at the other end.
I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching now.
I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it
nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and
hose clamp it.
btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a
kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned
much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on
the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my
tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel...
Thanks!
> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish
> to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at
> either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so
> the barb wore through.
>
> For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at
> the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps
> that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm
> gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp.
>
> 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe
> someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut
> edges will wear right through the line again.
>
I see why it rubbed through.
Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up
Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids.
Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that
holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have
removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it
might have. Who knows...
Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing
the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was
touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough
friction to wear it through.
I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping
around within an inch of it at the other end.
I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching now.
I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it
nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and
hose clamp it.
btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a
kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned
much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on
the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my
tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel...
Thanks!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
Mike Romain wrote:
> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish
> to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at
> either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so
> the barb wore through.
>
> For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at
> the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps
> that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm
> gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp.
>
> 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe
> someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut
> edges will wear right through the line again.
>
I see why it rubbed through.
Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up
Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids.
Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that
holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have
removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it
might have. Who knows...
Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing
the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was
touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough
friction to wear it through.
I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping
around within an inch of it at the other end.
I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching now.
I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it
nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and
hose clamp it.
btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a
kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned
much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on
the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my
tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel...
Thanks!
> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish
> to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at
> either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so
> the barb wore through.
>
> For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at
> the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps
> that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm
> gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp.
>
> 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe
> someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut
> edges will wear right through the line again.
>
I see why it rubbed through.
Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up
Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids.
Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that
holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have
removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it
might have. Who knows...
Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing
the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was
touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough
friction to wear it through.
I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping
around within an inch of it at the other end.
I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching now.
I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it
nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and
hose clamp it.
btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a
kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned
much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on
the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my
tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel...
Thanks!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
Mike Romain wrote:
> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish
> to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at
> either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so
> the barb wore through.
>
> For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at
> the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps
> that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm
> gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp.
>
> 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe
> someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut
> edges will wear right through the line again.
>
I see why it rubbed through.
Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up
Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids.
Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that
holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have
removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it
might have. Who knows...
Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing
the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was
touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough
friction to wear it through.
I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping
around within an inch of it at the other end.
I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching now.
I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it
nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and
hose clamp it.
btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a
kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned
much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on
the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my
tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel...
Thanks!
> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish
> to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at
> either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so
> the barb wore through.
>
> For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at
> the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps
> that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm
> gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp.
>
> 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe
> someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut
> edges will wear right through the line again.
>
I see why it rubbed through.
Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up
Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids.
Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that
holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have
removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it
might have. Who knows...
Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing
the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was
touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough
friction to wear it through.
I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping
around within an inch of it at the other end.
I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching now.
I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it
nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and
hose clamp it.
btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a
kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned
much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on
the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my
tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel...
Thanks!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
Mike Romain wrote:
> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish
> to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at
> either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so
> the barb wore through.
>
> For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at
> the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps
> that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm
> gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp.
>
> 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe
> someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut
> edges will wear right through the line again.
>
I see why it rubbed through.
Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up
Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids.
Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that
holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have
removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it
might have. Who knows...
Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing
the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was
touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough
friction to wear it through.
I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping
around within an inch of it at the other end.
I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching now.
I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it
nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and
hose clamp it.
btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a
kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned
much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on
the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my
tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel...
Thanks!
> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish
> to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at
> either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so
> the barb wore through.
>
> For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at
> the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps
> that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm
> gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp.
>
> 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe
> someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut
> edges will wear right through the line again.
>
I see why it rubbed through.
Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up
Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids.
Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that
holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have
removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it
might have. Who knows...
Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing
the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was
touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough
friction to wear it through.
I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping
around within an inch of it at the other end.
I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching now.
I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it
nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and
hose clamp it.
btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a
kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned
much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on
the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my
tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel...
Thanks!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
clay wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish
>> to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at
>> either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so
>> the barb wore through.
>>
>> For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot
>> at the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose
>> clamps that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for
>> the worm gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp.
>>
>> 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe
>> someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the
>> cut edges will wear right through the line again.
>>
> I see why it rubbed through.
> Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up
> Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids.
> Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that
> holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have
> removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it
> might have. Who knows...
> Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing
> the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was
> touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough
> friction to wear it through.
> I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping
> around within an inch of it at the other end.
> I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching
> now.
> I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it
> nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and
> hose clamp it.
> btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a
> kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned
> much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on
> the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my
> tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel...
> Thanks!
The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as
it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of
the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their
back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow also
and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you notice
that difference. ;-)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish
>> to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at
>> either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so
>> the barb wore through.
>>
>> For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot
>> at the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose
>> clamps that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for
>> the worm gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp.
>>
>> 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe
>> someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the
>> cut edges will wear right through the line again.
>>
> I see why it rubbed through.
> Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up
> Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids.
> Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that
> holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have
> removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it
> might have. Who knows...
> Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing
> the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was
> touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough
> friction to wear it through.
> I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping
> around within an inch of it at the other end.
> I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching
> now.
> I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it
> nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and
> hose clamp it.
> btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a
> kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned
> much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on
> the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my
> tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel...
> Thanks!
The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as
it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of
the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their
back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow also
and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you notice
that difference. ;-)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
clay wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish
>> to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at
>> either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so
>> the barb wore through.
>>
>> For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot
>> at the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose
>> clamps that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for
>> the worm gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp.
>>
>> 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe
>> someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the
>> cut edges will wear right through the line again.
>>
> I see why it rubbed through.
> Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up
> Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids.
> Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that
> holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have
> removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it
> might have. Who knows...
> Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing
> the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was
> touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough
> friction to wear it through.
> I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping
> around within an inch of it at the other end.
> I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching
> now.
> I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it
> nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and
> hose clamp it.
> btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a
> kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned
> much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on
> the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my
> tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel...
> Thanks!
The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as
it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of
the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their
back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow also
and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you notice
that difference. ;-)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish
>> to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at
>> either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so
>> the barb wore through.
>>
>> For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot
>> at the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose
>> clamps that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for
>> the worm gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp.
>>
>> 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe
>> someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the
>> cut edges will wear right through the line again.
>>
> I see why it rubbed through.
> Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up
> Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids.
> Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that
> holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have
> removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it
> might have. Who knows...
> Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing
> the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was
> touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough
> friction to wear it through.
> I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping
> around within an inch of it at the other end.
> I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching
> now.
> I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it
> nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and
> hose clamp it.
> btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a
> kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned
> much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on
> the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my
> tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel...
> Thanks!
The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as
it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of
the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their
back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow also
and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you notice
that difference. ;-)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
clay wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish
>> to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at
>> either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so
>> the barb wore through.
>>
>> For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot
>> at the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose
>> clamps that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for
>> the worm gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp.
>>
>> 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe
>> someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the
>> cut edges will wear right through the line again.
>>
> I see why it rubbed through.
> Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up
> Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids.
> Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that
> holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have
> removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it
> might have. Who knows...
> Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing
> the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was
> touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough
> friction to wear it through.
> I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping
> around within an inch of it at the other end.
> I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching
> now.
> I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it
> nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and
> hose clamp it.
> btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a
> kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned
> much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on
> the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my
> tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel...
> Thanks!
The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as
it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of
the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their
back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow also
and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you notice
that difference. ;-)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish
>> to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at
>> either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so
>> the barb wore through.
>>
>> For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot
>> at the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose
>> clamps that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for
>> the worm gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp.
>>
>> 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe
>> someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the
>> cut edges will wear right through the line again.
>>
> I see why it rubbed through.
> Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up
> Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids.
> Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that
> holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have
> removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it
> might have. Who knows...
> Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing
> the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was
> touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough
> friction to wear it through.
> I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping
> around within an inch of it at the other end.
> I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching
> now.
> I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it
> nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and
> hose clamp it.
> btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a
> kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned
> much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on
> the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my
> tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel...
> Thanks!
The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as
it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of
the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their
back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow also
and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you notice
that difference. ;-)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile...
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
