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91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
Girlfriendzillas Jeep again.
The rubber hose that runs between hard lines has a hole rubbed in it right up next to the fitting at the transmission end. The radiator end appears to have a quick disconnect type fitting to the hard line but the transmission end looks crimped. Can't see it very well, is it crimped or quick disconnect? Might be enough room to cut it right over the hole, stick a hose barb in it and get a couple hose clamps on it. Or I grind the crimp off, trim the hose and hose clamp it back on. Or, I fix it the right way..? What is the correct way to fix it? Thanks! Clay |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 21:41:34 -0700, clay <cl@ymation.com> wrote:
>Girlfriendzillas Jeep again. >The rubber hose that runs between hard lines has a hole rubbed in it >right up next to the fitting at the transmission end. >The radiator end appears to have a quick disconnect type fitting to the >hard line but the transmission end looks crimped. Can't see it very >well, is it crimped or quick disconnect? >Might be enough room to cut it right over the hole, stick a hose barb in >it and get a couple hose clamps on it. Or I grind the crimp off, trim >the hose and hose clamp it back on. >Or, I fix it the right way..? >What is the correct way to fix it? >Thanks! >Clay The "correct" way would be to replace the assembly but you might get by okay with some high pressure fuel line hose and a few clamps as you described. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 21:41:34 -0700, clay <cl@ymation.com> wrote:
>Girlfriendzillas Jeep again. >The rubber hose that runs between hard lines has a hole rubbed in it >right up next to the fitting at the transmission end. >The radiator end appears to have a quick disconnect type fitting to the >hard line but the transmission end looks crimped. Can't see it very >well, is it crimped or quick disconnect? >Might be enough room to cut it right over the hole, stick a hose barb in >it and get a couple hose clamps on it. Or I grind the crimp off, trim >the hose and hose clamp it back on. >Or, I fix it the right way..? >What is the correct way to fix it? >Thanks! >Clay The "correct" way would be to replace the assembly but you might get by okay with some high pressure fuel line hose and a few clamps as you described. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 21:41:34 -0700, clay <cl@ymation.com> wrote:
>Girlfriendzillas Jeep again. >The rubber hose that runs between hard lines has a hole rubbed in it >right up next to the fitting at the transmission end. >The radiator end appears to have a quick disconnect type fitting to the >hard line but the transmission end looks crimped. Can't see it very >well, is it crimped or quick disconnect? >Might be enough room to cut it right over the hole, stick a hose barb in >it and get a couple hose clamps on it. Or I grind the crimp off, trim >the hose and hose clamp it back on. >Or, I fix it the right way..? >What is the correct way to fix it? >Thanks! >Clay The "correct" way would be to replace the assembly but you might get by okay with some high pressure fuel line hose and a few clamps as you described. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 21:41:34 -0700, clay <cl@ymation.com> wrote:
>Girlfriendzillas Jeep again. >The rubber hose that runs between hard lines has a hole rubbed in it >right up next to the fitting at the transmission end. >The radiator end appears to have a quick disconnect type fitting to the >hard line but the transmission end looks crimped. Can't see it very >well, is it crimped or quick disconnect? >Might be enough room to cut it right over the hole, stick a hose barb in >it and get a couple hose clamps on it. Or I grind the crimp off, trim >the hose and hose clamp it back on. >Or, I fix it the right way..? >What is the correct way to fix it? >Thanks! >Clay The "correct" way would be to replace the assembly but you might get by okay with some high pressure fuel line hose and a few clamps as you described. ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
SnoMan wrote:
> On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 21:41:34 -0700, clay <cl@ymation.com> wrote: > >>Girlfriendzillas Jeep again. >>The rubber hose that runs between hard lines has a hole rubbed in it >>right up next to the fitting at the transmission end. >>The radiator end appears to have a quick disconnect type fitting to the >>hard line but the transmission end looks crimped. Can't see it very >>well, is it crimped or quick disconnect? >>Might be enough room to cut it right over the hole, stick a hose barb in >>it and get a couple hose clamps on it. Or I grind the crimp off, trim >>the hose and hose clamp it back on. >>Or, I fix it the right way..? >>What is the correct way to fix it? >>Thanks! >>Clay > > > The "correct" way would be to replace the assembly but you might get > by okay with some high pressure fuel line hose and a few clamps as you > described. > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com Thanks. I figured going all the way back to the transmission was the preferred method. Just kicking around options, remembering back to the days when I added an external trans cooler to the ol' Chevy. Instructions had you cut the hard line and hose clamp the new cooler lines on. |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
SnoMan wrote:
> On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 21:41:34 -0700, clay <cl@ymation.com> wrote: > >>Girlfriendzillas Jeep again. >>The rubber hose that runs between hard lines has a hole rubbed in it >>right up next to the fitting at the transmission end. >>The radiator end appears to have a quick disconnect type fitting to the >>hard line but the transmission end looks crimped. Can't see it very >>well, is it crimped or quick disconnect? >>Might be enough room to cut it right over the hole, stick a hose barb in >>it and get a couple hose clamps on it. Or I grind the crimp off, trim >>the hose and hose clamp it back on. >>Or, I fix it the right way..? >>What is the correct way to fix it? >>Thanks! >>Clay > > > The "correct" way would be to replace the assembly but you might get > by okay with some high pressure fuel line hose and a few clamps as you > described. > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com Thanks. I figured going all the way back to the transmission was the preferred method. Just kicking around options, remembering back to the days when I added an external trans cooler to the ol' Chevy. Instructions had you cut the hard line and hose clamp the new cooler lines on. |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
SnoMan wrote:
> On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 21:41:34 -0700, clay <cl@ymation.com> wrote: > >>Girlfriendzillas Jeep again. >>The rubber hose that runs between hard lines has a hole rubbed in it >>right up next to the fitting at the transmission end. >>The radiator end appears to have a quick disconnect type fitting to the >>hard line but the transmission end looks crimped. Can't see it very >>well, is it crimped or quick disconnect? >>Might be enough room to cut it right over the hole, stick a hose barb in >>it and get a couple hose clamps on it. Or I grind the crimp off, trim >>the hose and hose clamp it back on. >>Or, I fix it the right way..? >>What is the correct way to fix it? >>Thanks! >>Clay > > > The "correct" way would be to replace the assembly but you might get > by okay with some high pressure fuel line hose and a few clamps as you > described. > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com Thanks. I figured going all the way back to the transmission was the preferred method. Just kicking around options, remembering back to the days when I added an external trans cooler to the ol' Chevy. Instructions had you cut the hard line and hose clamp the new cooler lines on. |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
SnoMan wrote:
> On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 21:41:34 -0700, clay <cl@ymation.com> wrote: > >>Girlfriendzillas Jeep again. >>The rubber hose that runs between hard lines has a hole rubbed in it >>right up next to the fitting at the transmission end. >>The radiator end appears to have a quick disconnect type fitting to the >>hard line but the transmission end looks crimped. Can't see it very >>well, is it crimped or quick disconnect? >>Might be enough room to cut it right over the hole, stick a hose barb in >>it and get a couple hose clamps on it. Or I grind the crimp off, trim >>the hose and hose clamp it back on. >>Or, I fix it the right way..? >>What is the correct way to fix it? >>Thanks! >>Clay > > > The "correct" way would be to replace the assembly but you might get > by okay with some high pressure fuel line hose and a few clamps as you > described. > ----------------- > TheSnoMan.com Thanks. I figured going all the way back to the transmission was the preferred method. Just kicking around options, remembering back to the days when I added an external trans cooler to the ol' Chevy. Instructions had you cut the hard line and hose clamp the new cooler lines on. |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish
to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so the barb wore through. For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp. 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut edges will wear right through the line again. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) clay wrote: > Girlfriendzillas Jeep again. > The rubber hose that runs between hard lines has a hole rubbed in it > right up next to the fitting at the transmission end. > The radiator end appears to have a quick disconnect type fitting to the > hard line but the transmission end looks crimped. Can't see it very > well, is it crimped or quick disconnect? > Might be enough room to cut it right over the hole, stick a hose barb in > it and get a couple hose clamps on it. Or I grind the crimp off, trim > the hose and hose clamp it back on. > Or, I fix it the right way..? > What is the correct way to fix it? > Thanks! > Clay > |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish
to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so the barb wore through. For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp. 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut edges will wear right through the line again. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) clay wrote: > Girlfriendzillas Jeep again. > The rubber hose that runs between hard lines has a hole rubbed in it > right up next to the fitting at the transmission end. > The radiator end appears to have a quick disconnect type fitting to the > hard line but the transmission end looks crimped. Can't see it very > well, is it crimped or quick disconnect? > Might be enough room to cut it right over the hole, stick a hose barb in > it and get a couple hose clamps on it. Or I grind the crimp off, trim > the hose and hose clamp it back on. > Or, I fix it the right way..? > What is the correct way to fix it? > Thanks! > Clay > |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish
to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so the barb wore through. For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp. 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut edges will wear right through the line again. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) clay wrote: > Girlfriendzillas Jeep again. > The rubber hose that runs between hard lines has a hole rubbed in it > right up next to the fitting at the transmission end. > The radiator end appears to have a quick disconnect type fitting to the > hard line but the transmission end looks crimped. Can't see it very > well, is it crimped or quick disconnect? > Might be enough room to cut it right over the hole, stick a hose barb in > it and get a couple hose clamps on it. Or I grind the crimp off, trim > the hose and hose clamp it back on. > Or, I fix it the right way..? > What is the correct way to fix it? > Thanks! > Clay > |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish
to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so the barb wore through. For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp. 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut edges will wear right through the line again. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) clay wrote: > Girlfriendzillas Jeep again. > The rubber hose that runs between hard lines has a hole rubbed in it > right up next to the fitting at the transmission end. > The radiator end appears to have a quick disconnect type fitting to the > hard line but the transmission end looks crimped. Can't see it very > well, is it crimped or quick disconnect? > Might be enough room to cut it right over the hole, stick a hose barb in > it and get a couple hose clamps on it. Or I grind the crimp off, trim > the hose and hose clamp it back on. > Or, I fix it the right way..? > What is the correct way to fix it? > Thanks! > Clay > |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
Mike Romain wrote:
> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish > to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at > either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so > the barb wore through. > > For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at > the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps > that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm > gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp. > > 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe > someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut > edges will wear right through the line again. > I see why it rubbed through. Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids. Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it might have. Who knows... Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough friction to wear it through. I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping around within an inch of it at the other end. I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching now. I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and hose clamp it. btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel... Thanks! |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
Mike Romain wrote:
> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish > to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at > either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so > the barb wore through. > > For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at > the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps > that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm > gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp. > > 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe > someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut > edges will wear right through the line again. > I see why it rubbed through. Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids. Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it might have. Who knows... Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough friction to wear it through. I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping around within an inch of it at the other end. I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching now. I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and hose clamp it. btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel... Thanks! |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
Mike Romain wrote:
> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish > to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at > either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so > the barb wore through. > > For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at > the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps > that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm > gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp. > > 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe > someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut > edges will wear right through the line again. > I see why it rubbed through. Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids. Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it might have. Who knows... Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough friction to wear it through. I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping around within an inch of it at the other end. I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching now. I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and hose clamp it. btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel... Thanks! |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
Mike Romain wrote:
> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish > to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at > either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so > the barb wore through. > > For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot at > the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose clamps > that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for the worm > gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp. > > 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe > someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the cut > edges will wear right through the line again. > I see why it rubbed through. Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids. Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it might have. Who knows... Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough friction to wear it through. I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping around within an inch of it at the other end. I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching now. I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and hose clamp it. btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel... Thanks! |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
clay wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote: >> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish >> to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at >> either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so >> the barb wore through. >> >> For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot >> at the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose >> clamps that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for >> the worm gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp. >> >> 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe >> someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the >> cut edges will wear right through the line again. >> > I see why it rubbed through. > Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up > Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids. > Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that > holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have > removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it > might have. Who knows... > Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing > the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was > touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough > friction to wear it through. > I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping > around within an inch of it at the other end. > I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching > now. > I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it > nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and > hose clamp it. > btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a > kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned > much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on > the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my > tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel... > Thanks! The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow also and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you notice that difference. ;-) Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
clay wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote: >> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish >> to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at >> either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so >> the barb wore through. >> >> For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot >> at the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose >> clamps that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for >> the worm gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp. >> >> 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe >> someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the >> cut edges will wear right through the line again. >> > I see why it rubbed through. > Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up > Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids. > Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that > holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have > removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it > might have. Who knows... > Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing > the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was > touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough > friction to wear it through. > I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping > around within an inch of it at the other end. > I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching > now. > I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it > nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and > hose clamp it. > btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a > kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned > much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on > the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my > tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel... > Thanks! The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow also and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you notice that difference. ;-) Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
clay wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote: >> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish >> to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at >> either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so >> the barb wore through. >> >> For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot >> at the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose >> clamps that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for >> the worm gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp. >> >> 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe >> someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the >> cut edges will wear right through the line again. >> > I see why it rubbed through. > Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up > Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids. > Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that > holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have > removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it > might have. Who knows... > Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing > the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was > touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough > friction to wear it through. > I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping > around within an inch of it at the other end. > I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching > now. > I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it > nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and > hose clamp it. > btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a > kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned > much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on > the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my > tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel... > Thanks! The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow also and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you notice that difference. ;-) Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
clay wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote: >> First off you need to find out 'why' it wore out there. Kinda foolish >> to replace it the same way. If it was already 'fixed' with a clamp at >> either end of that piece, maybe they made it too short at the bend so >> the barb wore through. >> >> For repair, you can easily buy 'transmission cooler line' by the foot >> at the parts store. They also sell the high pressure (worm) hose >> clamps that have a solid band instead of the cut through threads for >> the worm gear. These are much better than a regular hose clamp. >> >> 'If' for whatever reason you end up cutting the steel line or maybe >> someone else has, you must make sure it gets an inward flair or the >> cut edges will wear right through the line again. >> > I see why it rubbed through. > Way back B.C. (before Clay) girlfriend cooked a head gasket, running up > Cajon pass, towing a trailer, with the A/C on and a full load of kids. > Apparently, the shop that fixed it neglected to reattach the clamp that > holds the hard line up front, under the radiator. Why they would have > removed it is a mystery. I doubt it rattled loose on it's own but it > might have. Who knows... > Anyway, it was not attached. The hard line has been sagging and rubbing > the hose on that rubber dust pan under the front ever since. It was > touching right up next to the crimp otherwise it would never had enough > friction to wear it through. > I'm surprised it didn't get into the front pulley since it was flapping > around within an inch of it at the other end. > I screwed the clamp back in place and nothing is anywhere near touching > now. > I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut it > nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the crimp and > hose clamp it. > btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had a > kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You mentioned > much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The rolled end on > the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot all about my > tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff wheel... > Thanks! The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow also and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you notice that difference. ;-) Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's - Gone to the rust pile... Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
Mike Romain wrote:
>... >> btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had >> a kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You >> mentioned much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The >> rolled end on the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot >> all about my tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff >> wheel... >> Thanks! > > The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as > it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of > the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their > back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow also > and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you notice > that difference. ;-) > The cutter I have is a tiny round thing with 3 little wheels. Great for working in tight spaces where you can't swing a regular wheel cutter around. aarg... don't mention plumbing. Gz has me remodeling a bathroom for her. Got this fancy sink/cabinet/freestanding thing, now I have to move the drain and water lines around a corner to hook it up. |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
Mike Romain wrote:
>... >> btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had >> a kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You >> mentioned much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The >> rolled end on the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot >> all about my tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff >> wheel... >> Thanks! > > The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as > it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of > the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their > back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow also > and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you notice > that difference. ;-) > The cutter I have is a tiny round thing with 3 little wheels. Great for working in tight spaces where you can't swing a regular wheel cutter around. aarg... don't mention plumbing. Gz has me remodeling a bathroom for her. Got this fancy sink/cabinet/freestanding thing, now I have to move the drain and water lines around a corner to hook it up. |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
Mike Romain wrote:
>... >> btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had >> a kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You >> mentioned much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The >> rolled end on the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot >> all about my tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff >> wheel... >> Thanks! > > The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as > it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of > the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their > back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow also > and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you notice > that difference. ;-) > The cutter I have is a tiny round thing with 3 little wheels. Great for working in tight spaces where you can't swing a regular wheel cutter around. aarg... don't mention plumbing. Gz has me remodeling a bathroom for her. Got this fancy sink/cabinet/freestanding thing, now I have to move the drain and water lines around a corner to hook it up. |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
Mike Romain wrote:
>... >> btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP had >> a kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You >> mentioned much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The >> rolled end on the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot >> all about my tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff >> wheel... >> Thanks! > > The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as > it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of > the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their > back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow also > and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you notice > that difference. ;-) > The cutter I have is a tiny round thing with 3 little wheels. Great for working in tight spaces where you can't swing a regular wheel cutter around. aarg... don't mention plumbing. Gz has me remodeling a bathroom for her. Got this fancy sink/cabinet/freestanding thing, now I have to move the drain and water lines around a corner to hook it up. |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
clay wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote: >> ... >>> btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP >>> had a kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You >>> mentioned much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The >>> rolled end on the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot >>> all about my tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff >>> wheel... >>> Thanks! >> >> The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as >> it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of >> the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their >> back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow >> also and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you >> notice that difference. ;-) >> > > The cutter I have is a tiny round thing with 3 little wheels. Great for > working in tight spaces where you can't swing a regular wheel cutter > around. They also make nice clean cuts usually because you can't really 'muscle' the tightener too hard like you can on the larger cutter, so burrs are less of an issue. > > aarg... don't mention plumbing. Gz has me remodeling a bathroom for her. > Got this fancy sink/cabinet/freestanding thing, now I have to move the > drain and water lines around a corner to hook it up. LOL! Mike |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
clay wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote: >> ... >>> btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP >>> had a kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You >>> mentioned much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The >>> rolled end on the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot >>> all about my tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff >>> wheel... >>> Thanks! >> >> The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as >> it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of >> the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their >> back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow >> also and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you >> notice that difference. ;-) >> > > The cutter I have is a tiny round thing with 3 little wheels. Great for > working in tight spaces where you can't swing a regular wheel cutter > around. They also make nice clean cuts usually because you can't really 'muscle' the tightener too hard like you can on the larger cutter, so burrs are less of an issue. > > aarg... don't mention plumbing. Gz has me remodeling a bathroom for her. > Got this fancy sink/cabinet/freestanding thing, now I have to move the > drain and water lines around a corner to hook it up. LOL! Mike |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
clay wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote: >> ... >>> btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP >>> had a kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You >>> mentioned much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The >>> rolled end on the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot >>> all about my tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff >>> wheel... >>> Thanks! >> >> The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as >> it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of >> the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their >> back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow >> also and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you >> notice that difference. ;-) >> > > The cutter I have is a tiny round thing with 3 little wheels. Great for > working in tight spaces where you can't swing a regular wheel cutter > around. They also make nice clean cuts usually because you can't really 'muscle' the tightener too hard like you can on the larger cutter, so burrs are less of an issue. > > aarg... don't mention plumbing. Gz has me remodeling a bathroom for her. > Got this fancy sink/cabinet/freestanding thing, now I have to move the > drain and water lines around a corner to hook it up. LOL! Mike |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
clay wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote: >> ... >>> btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP >>> had a kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You >>> mentioned much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The >>> rolled end on the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot >>> all about my tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff >>> wheel... >>> Thanks! >> >> The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as >> it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of >> the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their >> back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow >> also and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you >> notice that difference. ;-) >> > > The cutter I have is a tiny round thing with 3 little wheels. Great for > working in tight spaces where you can't swing a regular wheel cutter > around. They also make nice clean cuts usually because you can't really 'muscle' the tightener too hard like you can on the larger cutter, so burrs are less of an issue. > > aarg... don't mention plumbing. Gz has me remodeling a bathroom for her. > Got this fancy sink/cabinet/freestanding thing, now I have to move the > drain and water lines around a corner to hook it up. LOL! Mike |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:468a99d7$0$13580$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com... > clay wrote: > > Mike Romain wrote: > >> ... > >>> btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP > >>> had a kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You > >>> mentioned much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The > >>> rolled end on the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot > >>> all about my tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff > >>> wheel... > >>> Thanks! > >> > >> The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as > >> it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of > >> the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their > >> back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow > >> also and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you > >> notice that difference. ;-) > >> > > > > The cutter I have is a tiny round thing with 3 little wheels. Great for > > working in tight spaces where you can't swing a regular wheel cutter > > around. > > They also make nice clean cuts usually because you can't really 'muscle' > the tightener too hard like you can on the larger cutter, so burrs are > less of an issue. > If this tool doesn't say "Ridgid" on it somewhere it will be worthless. Saludos cordiales, Earle > > > > aarg... don't mention plumbing. Gz has me remodeling a bathroom for her. > > Got this fancy sink/cabinet/freestanding thing, now I have to move the > > drain and water lines around a corner to hook it up. > > LOL! > > Mike -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:468a99d7$0$13580$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com... > clay wrote: > > Mike Romain wrote: > >> ... > >>> btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP > >>> had a kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You > >>> mentioned much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The > >>> rolled end on the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot > >>> all about my tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff > >>> wheel... > >>> Thanks! > >> > >> The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as > >> it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of > >> the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their > >> back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow > >> also and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you > >> notice that difference. ;-) > >> > > > > The cutter I have is a tiny round thing with 3 little wheels. Great for > > working in tight spaces where you can't swing a regular wheel cutter > > around. > > They also make nice clean cuts usually because you can't really 'muscle' > the tightener too hard like you can on the larger cutter, so burrs are > less of an issue. > If this tool doesn't say "Ridgid" on it somewhere it will be worthless. Saludos cordiales, Earle > > > > aarg... don't mention plumbing. Gz has me remodeling a bathroom for her. > > Got this fancy sink/cabinet/freestanding thing, now I have to move the > > drain and water lines around a corner to hook it up. > > LOL! > > Mike -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:468a99d7$0$13580$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com... > clay wrote: > > Mike Romain wrote: > >> ... > >>> btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP > >>> had a kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You > >>> mentioned much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The > >>> rolled end on the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot > >>> all about my tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff > >>> wheel... > >>> Thanks! > >> > >> The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as > >> it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of > >> the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their > >> back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow > >> also and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you > >> notice that difference. ;-) > >> > > > > The cutter I have is a tiny round thing with 3 little wheels. Great for > > working in tight spaces where you can't swing a regular wheel cutter > > around. > > They also make nice clean cuts usually because you can't really 'muscle' > the tightener too hard like you can on the larger cutter, so burrs are > less of an issue. > If this tool doesn't say "Ridgid" on it somewhere it will be worthless. Saludos cordiales, Earle > > > > aarg... don't mention plumbing. Gz has me remodeling a bathroom for her. > > Got this fancy sink/cabinet/freestanding thing, now I have to move the > > drain and water lines around a corner to hook it up. > > LOL! > > Mike -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:468a99d7$0$13580$9a6e19ea@unlimited.newshosti ng.com... > clay wrote: > > Mike Romain wrote: > >> ... > >>> btw... I saw your post from way back 2000 on a similar subject. OP > >>> had a kinked line and was worried about damage to the tranny. You > >>> mentioned much the same fix then and I was ready to go for it. The > >>> rolled end on the cut tube wasn't mentioned though, and I had forgot > >>> all about my tubing cutter. I was going to go after it with a cutoff > >>> wheel... > >>> Thanks! > >> > >> The plumbers style wheel cutter does the trick nicely on steel line as > >> it rolls it just right. If there is a burr left on the inside edge of > >> the cut, most cutters have that triangle shaped reamer blade on their > >> back side to get the burr. Trimming the burr makes for better flow > >> also and a lot quieter too, but that is in a quiet house where you > >> notice that difference. ;-) > >> > > > > The cutter I have is a tiny round thing with 3 little wheels. Great for > > working in tight spaces where you can't swing a regular wheel cutter > > around. > > They also make nice clean cuts usually because you can't really 'muscle' > the tightener too hard like you can on the larger cutter, so burrs are > less of an issue. > If this tool doesn't say "Ridgid" on it somewhere it will be worthless. Saludos cordiales, Earle > > > > aarg... don't mention plumbing. Gz has me remodeling a bathroom for her. > > Got this fancy sink/cabinet/freestanding thing, now I have to move the > > drain and water lines around a corner to hook it up. > > LOL! > > Mike -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
clay <clay@mation.com> wrote:
> I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut > it nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the > crimp and hose clamp it. Works fine, it helps to avoid leakage if you try to slide about 2" of hose over the metal line and use two clamps about 3/4" or so apart. -- XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups The Usenet Improvement Project: http://blinkynet.net/comp/uip5.html |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
clay <clay@mation.com> wrote:
> I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut > it nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the > crimp and hose clamp it. Works fine, it helps to avoid leakage if you try to slide about 2" of hose over the metal line and use two clamps about 3/4" or so apart. -- XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups The Usenet Improvement Project: http://blinkynet.net/comp/uip5.html |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
clay <clay@mation.com> wrote:
> I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut > it nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the > crimp and hose clamp it. Works fine, it helps to avoid leakage if you try to slide about 2" of hose over the metal line and use two clamps about 3/4" or so apart. -- XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups The Usenet Improvement Project: http://blinkynet.net/comp/uip5.html |
Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
clay <clay@mation.com> wrote:
> I have a tubing cutter in my brake line making stuff that will cut > it nicely and roll the end. I think I'll chop it right behind the > crimp and hose clamp it. Works fine, it helps to avoid leakage if you try to slide about 2" of hose over the metal line and use two clamps about 3/4" or so apart. -- XS11E, Killing all posts from Google Groups The Usenet Improvement Project: http://blinkynet.net/comp/uip5.html |
Re: Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 11:28:43 -0700, clay <clay@mation.com> wrote:
>The cutter I have is a tiny round thing with 3 little wheels. Great for >working in tight spaces where you can't swing a regular wheel cutter around. You might consider using a flaring tool and putting a moderate flare on ends of tubes to keep hose on better with clamps on hose over tube above but near or next to flare ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 11:28:43 -0700, clay <clay@mation.com> wrote:
>The cutter I have is a tiny round thing with 3 little wheels. Great for >working in tight spaces where you can't swing a regular wheel cutter around. You might consider using a flaring tool and putting a moderate flare on ends of tubes to keep hose on better with clamps on hose over tube above but near or next to flare ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
Re: Re: 91 Cherokee Automatic Trans cooler line repair/replacement?
On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 11:28:43 -0700, clay <clay@mation.com> wrote:
>The cutter I have is a tiny round thing with 3 little wheels. Great for >working in tight spaces where you can't swing a regular wheel cutter around. You might consider using a flaring tool and putting a moderate flare on ends of tubes to keep hose on better with clamps on hose over tube above but near or next to flare ----------------- TheSnoMan.com |
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