90 Wrangler YJ needs Rear Main Seal
01-30-2007, 04:35 PM
#51
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 90 Wrangler YJ needs Rear Main Seal
Remember the rope seals? There was a Chinese finger toy type of tool you
could use to try to drag the new one into place. Leave just the right
amount of rope sticking out, and the cap would compress the seal so it would
maybe not leak for a while. Cut off too much or too little and you had to
do the job over. I like the type where you have to take the flywheel off.
Earle
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:mrOvh.16414$pQ3.10668@newsread4.news.pas.eart hlink.net...
> The problem with a "good document" about how to replace the seal is that
> technically, you are not supposed to be able to replace the seal without
> dropping the crankshaft out. Anything else is going to be loaded with
> the "do this and see if that works" kind of info. The problem is getting
> the top half of the crank seal out with the crank still in there. The
> more clearnace, the easier it is to get the old one out and the new one
> PROPERLY in place. Version one is pull the pan, pull the rear main cap,
> wiggle the seal out and replace. Version 2 is pull all the bearing caps
> and hope you can drop the crankshaft down an 1/8" of an inch or so and
> get the seal out. Version 3 is pull the transfer case and tranny out so
> you can get the pilot bearing free and drop the crankshaft down enough
> to get the job done.
>
> NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
> > Thanks for the post RoyJ, I am pretty confident that its the Rear Main
> > that is leaking. Since there is no oil towards the top of my engine
> > or even the backup of the engine and the firewall. Thanks for the
> > information from your manual showing that it is indeed a 2 piece rear
> > main.
> >
> > Now does anyone have a good document to follow to replace this seal?
> > Thanks again.
> >
> >
could use to try to drag the new one into place. Leave just the right
amount of rope sticking out, and the cap would compress the seal so it would
maybe not leak for a while. Cut off too much or too little and you had to
do the job over. I like the type where you have to take the flywheel off.
Earle
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:mrOvh.16414$pQ3.10668@newsread4.news.pas.eart hlink.net...
> The problem with a "good document" about how to replace the seal is that
> technically, you are not supposed to be able to replace the seal without
> dropping the crankshaft out. Anything else is going to be loaded with
> the "do this and see if that works" kind of info. The problem is getting
> the top half of the crank seal out with the crank still in there. The
> more clearnace, the easier it is to get the old one out and the new one
> PROPERLY in place. Version one is pull the pan, pull the rear main cap,
> wiggle the seal out and replace. Version 2 is pull all the bearing caps
> and hope you can drop the crankshaft down an 1/8" of an inch or so and
> get the seal out. Version 3 is pull the transfer case and tranny out so
> you can get the pilot bearing free and drop the crankshaft down enough
> to get the job done.
>
> NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
> > Thanks for the post RoyJ, I am pretty confident that its the Rear Main
> > that is leaking. Since there is no oil towards the top of my engine
> > or even the backup of the engine and the firewall. Thanks for the
> > information from your manual showing that it is indeed a 2 piece rear
> > main.
> >
> > Now does anyone have a good document to follow to replace this seal?
> > Thanks again.
> >
> >
01-30-2007, 04:35 PM
#52
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 90 Wrangler YJ needs Rear Main Seal
Remember the rope seals? There was a Chinese finger toy type of tool you
could use to try to drag the new one into place. Leave just the right
amount of rope sticking out, and the cap would compress the seal so it would
maybe not leak for a while. Cut off too much or too little and you had to
do the job over. I like the type where you have to take the flywheel off.
Earle
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:mrOvh.16414$pQ3.10668@newsread4.news.pas.eart hlink.net...
> The problem with a "good document" about how to replace the seal is that
> technically, you are not supposed to be able to replace the seal without
> dropping the crankshaft out. Anything else is going to be loaded with
> the "do this and see if that works" kind of info. The problem is getting
> the top half of the crank seal out with the crank still in there. The
> more clearnace, the easier it is to get the old one out and the new one
> PROPERLY in place. Version one is pull the pan, pull the rear main cap,
> wiggle the seal out and replace. Version 2 is pull all the bearing caps
> and hope you can drop the crankshaft down an 1/8" of an inch or so and
> get the seal out. Version 3 is pull the transfer case and tranny out so
> you can get the pilot bearing free and drop the crankshaft down enough
> to get the job done.
>
> NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
> > Thanks for the post RoyJ, I am pretty confident that its the Rear Main
> > that is leaking. Since there is no oil towards the top of my engine
> > or even the backup of the engine and the firewall. Thanks for the
> > information from your manual showing that it is indeed a 2 piece rear
> > main.
> >
> > Now does anyone have a good document to follow to replace this seal?
> > Thanks again.
> >
> >
could use to try to drag the new one into place. Leave just the right
amount of rope sticking out, and the cap would compress the seal so it would
maybe not leak for a while. Cut off too much or too little and you had to
do the job over. I like the type where you have to take the flywheel off.
Earle
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:mrOvh.16414$pQ3.10668@newsread4.news.pas.eart hlink.net...
> The problem with a "good document" about how to replace the seal is that
> technically, you are not supposed to be able to replace the seal without
> dropping the crankshaft out. Anything else is going to be loaded with
> the "do this and see if that works" kind of info. The problem is getting
> the top half of the crank seal out with the crank still in there. The
> more clearnace, the easier it is to get the old one out and the new one
> PROPERLY in place. Version one is pull the pan, pull the rear main cap,
> wiggle the seal out and replace. Version 2 is pull all the bearing caps
> and hope you can drop the crankshaft down an 1/8" of an inch or so and
> get the seal out. Version 3 is pull the transfer case and tranny out so
> you can get the pilot bearing free and drop the crankshaft down enough
> to get the job done.
>
> NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
> > Thanks for the post RoyJ, I am pretty confident that its the Rear Main
> > that is leaking. Since there is no oil towards the top of my engine
> > or even the backup of the engine and the firewall. Thanks for the
> > information from your manual showing that it is indeed a 2 piece rear
> > main.
> >
> > Now does anyone have a good document to follow to replace this seal?
> > Thanks again.
> >
> >
01-30-2007, 04:35 PM
#53
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 90 Wrangler YJ needs Rear Main Seal
Remember the rope seals? There was a Chinese finger toy type of tool you
could use to try to drag the new one into place. Leave just the right
amount of rope sticking out, and the cap would compress the seal so it would
maybe not leak for a while. Cut off too much or too little and you had to
do the job over. I like the type where you have to take the flywheel off.
Earle
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:mrOvh.16414$pQ3.10668@newsread4.news.pas.eart hlink.net...
> The problem with a "good document" about how to replace the seal is that
> technically, you are not supposed to be able to replace the seal without
> dropping the crankshaft out. Anything else is going to be loaded with
> the "do this and see if that works" kind of info. The problem is getting
> the top half of the crank seal out with the crank still in there. The
> more clearnace, the easier it is to get the old one out and the new one
> PROPERLY in place. Version one is pull the pan, pull the rear main cap,
> wiggle the seal out and replace. Version 2 is pull all the bearing caps
> and hope you can drop the crankshaft down an 1/8" of an inch or so and
> get the seal out. Version 3 is pull the transfer case and tranny out so
> you can get the pilot bearing free and drop the crankshaft down enough
> to get the job done.
>
> NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
> > Thanks for the post RoyJ, I am pretty confident that its the Rear Main
> > that is leaking. Since there is no oil towards the top of my engine
> > or even the backup of the engine and the firewall. Thanks for the
> > information from your manual showing that it is indeed a 2 piece rear
> > main.
> >
> > Now does anyone have a good document to follow to replace this seal?
> > Thanks again.
> >
> >
could use to try to drag the new one into place. Leave just the right
amount of rope sticking out, and the cap would compress the seal so it would
maybe not leak for a while. Cut off too much or too little and you had to
do the job over. I like the type where you have to take the flywheel off.
Earle
"RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
news:mrOvh.16414$pQ3.10668@newsread4.news.pas.eart hlink.net...
> The problem with a "good document" about how to replace the seal is that
> technically, you are not supposed to be able to replace the seal without
> dropping the crankshaft out. Anything else is going to be loaded with
> the "do this and see if that works" kind of info. The problem is getting
> the top half of the crank seal out with the crank still in there. The
> more clearnace, the easier it is to get the old one out and the new one
> PROPERLY in place. Version one is pull the pan, pull the rear main cap,
> wiggle the seal out and replace. Version 2 is pull all the bearing caps
> and hope you can drop the crankshaft down an 1/8" of an inch or so and
> get the seal out. Version 3 is pull the transfer case and tranny out so
> you can get the pilot bearing free and drop the crankshaft down enough
> to get the job done.
>
> NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
> > Thanks for the post RoyJ, I am pretty confident that its the Rear Main
> > that is leaking. Since there is no oil towards the top of my engine
> > or even the backup of the engine and the firewall. Thanks for the
> > information from your manual showing that it is indeed a 2 piece rear
> > main.
> >
> > Now does anyone have a good document to follow to replace this seal?
> > Thanks again.
> >
> >
01-31-2007, 05:53 PM
#54
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 90 Wrangler YJ needs Rear Main Seal
Sure do. They were tough to get just right when you had the engine
upside down on the engine stand. The trouble with the finger trap things
was that it stretched and thinned the seal when you pulled it through.
No way to get it properly compressed. Of course those were the days when
I could drive a big block olds into the garage, pull engine and tranny,
pull the heads, drop the bottom end out, hone cylinders, new rings, and
reassemble in 16 hours by myself.
Earle Horton wrote:
> Remember the rope seals? There was a Chinese finger toy type of tool you
> could use to try to drag the new one into place. Leave just the right
> amount of rope sticking out, and the cap would compress the seal so it would
> maybe not leak for a while. Cut off too much or too little and you had to
> do the job over. I like the type where you have to take the flywheel off.
>
> Earle
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:mrOvh.16414$pQ3.10668@newsread4.news.pas.eart hlink.net...
>
>>The problem with a "good document" about how to replace the seal is that
>>technically, you are not supposed to be able to replace the seal without
>>dropping the crankshaft out. Anything else is going to be loaded with
>>the "do this and see if that works" kind of info. The problem is getting
>>the top half of the crank seal out with the crank still in there. The
>>more clearnace, the easier it is to get the old one out and the new one
>>PROPERLY in place. Version one is pull the pan, pull the rear main cap,
>>wiggle the seal out and replace. Version 2 is pull all the bearing caps
>>and hope you can drop the crankshaft down an 1/8" of an inch or so and
>>get the seal out. Version 3 is pull the transfer case and tranny out so
>>you can get the pilot bearing free and drop the crankshaft down enough
>>to get the job done.
>>
>>NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
>>
>>>Thanks for the post RoyJ, I am pretty confident that its the Rear Main
>>>that is leaking. Since there is no oil towards the top of my engine
>>>or even the backup of the engine and the firewall. Thanks for the
>>>information from your manual showing that it is indeed a 2 piece rear
>>>main.
>>>
>>>Now does anyone have a good document to follow to replace this seal?
>>>Thanks again.
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
upside down on the engine stand. The trouble with the finger trap things
was that it stretched and thinned the seal when you pulled it through.
No way to get it properly compressed. Of course those were the days when
I could drive a big block olds into the garage, pull engine and tranny,
pull the heads, drop the bottom end out, hone cylinders, new rings, and
reassemble in 16 hours by myself.
Earle Horton wrote:
> Remember the rope seals? There was a Chinese finger toy type of tool you
> could use to try to drag the new one into place. Leave just the right
> amount of rope sticking out, and the cap would compress the seal so it would
> maybe not leak for a while. Cut off too much or too little and you had to
> do the job over. I like the type where you have to take the flywheel off.
>
> Earle
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:mrOvh.16414$pQ3.10668@newsread4.news.pas.eart hlink.net...
>
>>The problem with a "good document" about how to replace the seal is that
>>technically, you are not supposed to be able to replace the seal without
>>dropping the crankshaft out. Anything else is going to be loaded with
>>the "do this and see if that works" kind of info. The problem is getting
>>the top half of the crank seal out with the crank still in there. The
>>more clearnace, the easier it is to get the old one out and the new one
>>PROPERLY in place. Version one is pull the pan, pull the rear main cap,
>>wiggle the seal out and replace. Version 2 is pull all the bearing caps
>>and hope you can drop the crankshaft down an 1/8" of an inch or so and
>>get the seal out. Version 3 is pull the transfer case and tranny out so
>>you can get the pilot bearing free and drop the crankshaft down enough
>>to get the job done.
>>
>>NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
>>
>>>Thanks for the post RoyJ, I am pretty confident that its the Rear Main
>>>that is leaking. Since there is no oil towards the top of my engine
>>>or even the backup of the engine and the firewall. Thanks for the
>>>information from your manual showing that it is indeed a 2 piece rear
>>>main.
>>>
>>>Now does anyone have a good document to follow to replace this seal?
>>>Thanks again.
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
01-31-2007, 05:53 PM
#55
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 90 Wrangler YJ needs Rear Main Seal
Sure do. They were tough to get just right when you had the engine
upside down on the engine stand. The trouble with the finger trap things
was that it stretched and thinned the seal when you pulled it through.
No way to get it properly compressed. Of course those were the days when
I could drive a big block olds into the garage, pull engine and tranny,
pull the heads, drop the bottom end out, hone cylinders, new rings, and
reassemble in 16 hours by myself.
Earle Horton wrote:
> Remember the rope seals? There was a Chinese finger toy type of tool you
> could use to try to drag the new one into place. Leave just the right
> amount of rope sticking out, and the cap would compress the seal so it would
> maybe not leak for a while. Cut off too much or too little and you had to
> do the job over. I like the type where you have to take the flywheel off.
>
> Earle
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:mrOvh.16414$pQ3.10668@newsread4.news.pas.eart hlink.net...
>
>>The problem with a "good document" about how to replace the seal is that
>>technically, you are not supposed to be able to replace the seal without
>>dropping the crankshaft out. Anything else is going to be loaded with
>>the "do this and see if that works" kind of info. The problem is getting
>>the top half of the crank seal out with the crank still in there. The
>>more clearnace, the easier it is to get the old one out and the new one
>>PROPERLY in place. Version one is pull the pan, pull the rear main cap,
>>wiggle the seal out and replace. Version 2 is pull all the bearing caps
>>and hope you can drop the crankshaft down an 1/8" of an inch or so and
>>get the seal out. Version 3 is pull the transfer case and tranny out so
>>you can get the pilot bearing free and drop the crankshaft down enough
>>to get the job done.
>>
>>NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
>>
>>>Thanks for the post RoyJ, I am pretty confident that its the Rear Main
>>>that is leaking. Since there is no oil towards the top of my engine
>>>or even the backup of the engine and the firewall. Thanks for the
>>>information from your manual showing that it is indeed a 2 piece rear
>>>main.
>>>
>>>Now does anyone have a good document to follow to replace this seal?
>>>Thanks again.
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
upside down on the engine stand. The trouble with the finger trap things
was that it stretched and thinned the seal when you pulled it through.
No way to get it properly compressed. Of course those were the days when
I could drive a big block olds into the garage, pull engine and tranny,
pull the heads, drop the bottom end out, hone cylinders, new rings, and
reassemble in 16 hours by myself.
Earle Horton wrote:
> Remember the rope seals? There was a Chinese finger toy type of tool you
> could use to try to drag the new one into place. Leave just the right
> amount of rope sticking out, and the cap would compress the seal so it would
> maybe not leak for a while. Cut off too much or too little and you had to
> do the job over. I like the type where you have to take the flywheel off.
>
> Earle
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:mrOvh.16414$pQ3.10668@newsread4.news.pas.eart hlink.net...
>
>>The problem with a "good document" about how to replace the seal is that
>>technically, you are not supposed to be able to replace the seal without
>>dropping the crankshaft out. Anything else is going to be loaded with
>>the "do this and see if that works" kind of info. The problem is getting
>>the top half of the crank seal out with the crank still in there. The
>>more clearnace, the easier it is to get the old one out and the new one
>>PROPERLY in place. Version one is pull the pan, pull the rear main cap,
>>wiggle the seal out and replace. Version 2 is pull all the bearing caps
>>and hope you can drop the crankshaft down an 1/8" of an inch or so and
>>get the seal out. Version 3 is pull the transfer case and tranny out so
>>you can get the pilot bearing free and drop the crankshaft down enough
>>to get the job done.
>>
>>NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
>>
>>>Thanks for the post RoyJ, I am pretty confident that its the Rear Main
>>>that is leaking. Since there is no oil towards the top of my engine
>>>or even the backup of the engine and the firewall. Thanks for the
>>>information from your manual showing that it is indeed a 2 piece rear
>>>main.
>>>
>>>Now does anyone have a good document to follow to replace this seal?
>>>Thanks again.
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
01-31-2007, 05:53 PM
#56
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 90 Wrangler YJ needs Rear Main Seal
Sure do. They were tough to get just right when you had the engine
upside down on the engine stand. The trouble with the finger trap things
was that it stretched and thinned the seal when you pulled it through.
No way to get it properly compressed. Of course those were the days when
I could drive a big block olds into the garage, pull engine and tranny,
pull the heads, drop the bottom end out, hone cylinders, new rings, and
reassemble in 16 hours by myself.
Earle Horton wrote:
> Remember the rope seals? There was a Chinese finger toy type of tool you
> could use to try to drag the new one into place. Leave just the right
> amount of rope sticking out, and the cap would compress the seal so it would
> maybe not leak for a while. Cut off too much or too little and you had to
> do the job over. I like the type where you have to take the flywheel off.
>
> Earle
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:mrOvh.16414$pQ3.10668@newsread4.news.pas.eart hlink.net...
>
>>The problem with a "good document" about how to replace the seal is that
>>technically, you are not supposed to be able to replace the seal without
>>dropping the crankshaft out. Anything else is going to be loaded with
>>the "do this and see if that works" kind of info. The problem is getting
>>the top half of the crank seal out with the crank still in there. The
>>more clearnace, the easier it is to get the old one out and the new one
>>PROPERLY in place. Version one is pull the pan, pull the rear main cap,
>>wiggle the seal out and replace. Version 2 is pull all the bearing caps
>>and hope you can drop the crankshaft down an 1/8" of an inch or so and
>>get the seal out. Version 3 is pull the transfer case and tranny out so
>>you can get the pilot bearing free and drop the crankshaft down enough
>>to get the job done.
>>
>>NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
>>
>>>Thanks for the post RoyJ, I am pretty confident that its the Rear Main
>>>that is leaking. Since there is no oil towards the top of my engine
>>>or even the backup of the engine and the firewall. Thanks for the
>>>information from your manual showing that it is indeed a 2 piece rear
>>>main.
>>>
>>>Now does anyone have a good document to follow to replace this seal?
>>>Thanks again.
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
upside down on the engine stand. The trouble with the finger trap things
was that it stretched and thinned the seal when you pulled it through.
No way to get it properly compressed. Of course those were the days when
I could drive a big block olds into the garage, pull engine and tranny,
pull the heads, drop the bottom end out, hone cylinders, new rings, and
reassemble in 16 hours by myself.
Earle Horton wrote:
> Remember the rope seals? There was a Chinese finger toy type of tool you
> could use to try to drag the new one into place. Leave just the right
> amount of rope sticking out, and the cap would compress the seal so it would
> maybe not leak for a while. Cut off too much or too little and you had to
> do the job over. I like the type where you have to take the flywheel off.
>
> Earle
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:mrOvh.16414$pQ3.10668@newsread4.news.pas.eart hlink.net...
>
>>The problem with a "good document" about how to replace the seal is that
>>technically, you are not supposed to be able to replace the seal without
>>dropping the crankshaft out. Anything else is going to be loaded with
>>the "do this and see if that works" kind of info. The problem is getting
>>the top half of the crank seal out with the crank still in there. The
>>more clearnace, the easier it is to get the old one out and the new one
>>PROPERLY in place. Version one is pull the pan, pull the rear main cap,
>>wiggle the seal out and replace. Version 2 is pull all the bearing caps
>>and hope you can drop the crankshaft down an 1/8" of an inch or so and
>>get the seal out. Version 3 is pull the transfer case and tranny out so
>>you can get the pilot bearing free and drop the crankshaft down enough
>>to get the job done.
>>
>>NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
>>
>>>Thanks for the post RoyJ, I am pretty confident that its the Rear Main
>>>that is leaking. Since there is no oil towards the top of my engine
>>>or even the backup of the engine and the firewall. Thanks for the
>>>information from your manual showing that it is indeed a 2 piece rear
>>>main.
>>>
>>>Now does anyone have a good document to follow to replace this seal?
>>>Thanks again.
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
01-31-2007, 05:53 PM
#57
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 90 Wrangler YJ needs Rear Main Seal
Sure do. They were tough to get just right when you had the engine
upside down on the engine stand. The trouble with the finger trap things
was that it stretched and thinned the seal when you pulled it through.
No way to get it properly compressed. Of course those were the days when
I could drive a big block olds into the garage, pull engine and tranny,
pull the heads, drop the bottom end out, hone cylinders, new rings, and
reassemble in 16 hours by myself.
Earle Horton wrote:
> Remember the rope seals? There was a Chinese finger toy type of tool you
> could use to try to drag the new one into place. Leave just the right
> amount of rope sticking out, and the cap would compress the seal so it would
> maybe not leak for a while. Cut off too much or too little and you had to
> do the job over. I like the type where you have to take the flywheel off.
>
> Earle
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:mrOvh.16414$pQ3.10668@newsread4.news.pas.eart hlink.net...
>
>>The problem with a "good document" about how to replace the seal is that
>>technically, you are not supposed to be able to replace the seal without
>>dropping the crankshaft out. Anything else is going to be loaded with
>>the "do this and see if that works" kind of info. The problem is getting
>>the top half of the crank seal out with the crank still in there. The
>>more clearnace, the easier it is to get the old one out and the new one
>>PROPERLY in place. Version one is pull the pan, pull the rear main cap,
>>wiggle the seal out and replace. Version 2 is pull all the bearing caps
>>and hope you can drop the crankshaft down an 1/8" of an inch or so and
>>get the seal out. Version 3 is pull the transfer case and tranny out so
>>you can get the pilot bearing free and drop the crankshaft down enough
>>to get the job done.
>>
>>NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
>>
>>>Thanks for the post RoyJ, I am pretty confident that its the Rear Main
>>>that is leaking. Since there is no oil towards the top of my engine
>>>or even the backup of the engine and the firewall. Thanks for the
>>>information from your manual showing that it is indeed a 2 piece rear
>>>main.
>>>
>>>Now does anyone have a good document to follow to replace this seal?
>>>Thanks again.
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
upside down on the engine stand. The trouble with the finger trap things
was that it stretched and thinned the seal when you pulled it through.
No way to get it properly compressed. Of course those were the days when
I could drive a big block olds into the garage, pull engine and tranny,
pull the heads, drop the bottom end out, hone cylinders, new rings, and
reassemble in 16 hours by myself.
Earle Horton wrote:
> Remember the rope seals? There was a Chinese finger toy type of tool you
> could use to try to drag the new one into place. Leave just the right
> amount of rope sticking out, and the cap would compress the seal so it would
> maybe not leak for a while. Cut off too much or too little and you had to
> do the job over. I like the type where you have to take the flywheel off.
>
> Earle
>
> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> news:mrOvh.16414$pQ3.10668@newsread4.news.pas.eart hlink.net...
>
>>The problem with a "good document" about how to replace the seal is that
>>technically, you are not supposed to be able to replace the seal without
>>dropping the crankshaft out. Anything else is going to be loaded with
>>the "do this and see if that works" kind of info. The problem is getting
>>the top half of the crank seal out with the crank still in there. The
>>more clearnace, the easier it is to get the old one out and the new one
>>PROPERLY in place. Version one is pull the pan, pull the rear main cap,
>>wiggle the seal out and replace. Version 2 is pull all the bearing caps
>>and hope you can drop the crankshaft down an 1/8" of an inch or so and
>>get the seal out. Version 3 is pull the transfer case and tranny out so
>>you can get the pilot bearing free and drop the crankshaft down enough
>>to get the job done.
>>
>>NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
>>
>>>Thanks for the post RoyJ, I am pretty confident that its the Rear Main
>>>that is leaking. Since there is no oil towards the top of my engine
>>>or even the backup of the engine and the firewall. Thanks for the
>>>information from your manual showing that it is indeed a 2 piece rear
>>>main.
>>>
>>>Now does anyone have a good document to follow to replace this seal?
>>>Thanks again.
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
02-01-2007, 10:24 AM
#58
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 90 Wrangler YJ needs Rear Main Seal
If you don't use the clean rag test for the valve cover, you could be
doing a whole bunch of work for nothing.
Is your valve cover bone dry all around? If it leaks up front, well....
The leak down the back will not be visible from up top or down under.
None will get on the firewall either.
Just my $0.02,
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
> Thanks for the post RoyJ, I am pretty confident that its the Rear Main
> that is leaking. Since there is no oil towards the top of my engine
> or even the backup of the engine and the firewall. Thanks for the
> information from your manual showing that it is indeed a 2 piece rear
> main.
>
> Now does anyone have a good document to follow to replace this seal?
> Thanks again.
>
>
doing a whole bunch of work for nothing.
Is your valve cover bone dry all around? If it leaks up front, well....
The leak down the back will not be visible from up top or down under.
None will get on the firewall either.
Just my $0.02,
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
> Thanks for the post RoyJ, I am pretty confident that its the Rear Main
> that is leaking. Since there is no oil towards the top of my engine
> or even the backup of the engine and the firewall. Thanks for the
> information from your manual showing that it is indeed a 2 piece rear
> main.
>
> Now does anyone have a good document to follow to replace this seal?
> Thanks again.
>
>
02-01-2007, 10:24 AM
#59
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 90 Wrangler YJ needs Rear Main Seal
If you don't use the clean rag test for the valve cover, you could be
doing a whole bunch of work for nothing.
Is your valve cover bone dry all around? If it leaks up front, well....
The leak down the back will not be visible from up top or down under.
None will get on the firewall either.
Just my $0.02,
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
> Thanks for the post RoyJ, I am pretty confident that its the Rear Main
> that is leaking. Since there is no oil towards the top of my engine
> or even the backup of the engine and the firewall. Thanks for the
> information from your manual showing that it is indeed a 2 piece rear
> main.
>
> Now does anyone have a good document to follow to replace this seal?
> Thanks again.
>
>
doing a whole bunch of work for nothing.
Is your valve cover bone dry all around? If it leaks up front, well....
The leak down the back will not be visible from up top or down under.
None will get on the firewall either.
Just my $0.02,
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
> Thanks for the post RoyJ, I am pretty confident that its the Rear Main
> that is leaking. Since there is no oil towards the top of my engine
> or even the backup of the engine and the firewall. Thanks for the
> information from your manual showing that it is indeed a 2 piece rear
> main.
>
> Now does anyone have a good document to follow to replace this seal?
> Thanks again.
>
>
02-01-2007, 10:24 AM
#60
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 90 Wrangler YJ needs Rear Main Seal
If you don't use the clean rag test for the valve cover, you could be
doing a whole bunch of work for nothing.
Is your valve cover bone dry all around? If it leaks up front, well....
The leak down the back will not be visible from up top or down under.
None will get on the firewall either.
Just my $0.02,
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
> Thanks for the post RoyJ, I am pretty confident that its the Rear Main
> that is leaking. Since there is no oil towards the top of my engine
> or even the backup of the engine and the firewall. Thanks for the
> information from your manual showing that it is indeed a 2 piece rear
> main.
>
> Now does anyone have a good document to follow to replace this seal?
> Thanks again.
>
>
doing a whole bunch of work for nothing.
Is your valve cover bone dry all around? If it leaks up front, well....
The leak down the back will not be visible from up top or down under.
None will get on the firewall either.
Just my $0.02,
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
> Thanks for the post RoyJ, I am pretty confident that its the Rear Main
> that is leaking. Since there is no oil towards the top of my engine
> or even the backup of the engine and the firewall. Thanks for the
> information from your manual showing that it is indeed a 2 piece rear
> main.
>
> Now does anyone have a good document to follow to replace this seal?
> Thanks again.
>
>