Onlyinajeepcj7

the vales are the same, they unscrew (but you must hold the lower pipe section
while doing it) and yes the brownish water look is from a bad valve that
allowed condensation to purp back up into the housing.

Onlyinajeepcj7

the vales are the same, they unscrew (but you must hold the lower pipe section
while doing it) and yes the brownish water look is from a bad valve that
allowed condensation to purp back up into the housing.

Mike Romain

Good luck trying to take them off!

I would recommend soaking them several times a day for at least a week
in a good penetrating oil.

That rust you see can make the tubes paper thin and the odds are it will
just collapse under torque.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Onlyinajeepcj7 wrote:
>
> the vales are the same, they unscrew (but you must hold the lower pipe section
> while doing it) and yes the brownish water look is from a bad valve that
> allowed condensation to purp back up into the housing.

Mike Romain

Good luck trying to take them off!

I would recommend soaking them several times a day for at least a week
in a good penetrating oil.

That rust you see can make the tubes paper thin and the odds are it will
just collapse under torque.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Onlyinajeepcj7 wrote:
>
> the vales are the same, they unscrew (but you must hold the lower pipe section
> while doing it) and yes the brownish water look is from a bad valve that
> allowed condensation to purp back up into the housing.

Mike Romain

Good luck trying to take them off!

I would recommend soaking them several times a day for at least a week
in a good penetrating oil.

That rust you see can make the tubes paper thin and the odds are it will
just collapse under torque.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Onlyinajeepcj7 wrote:
>
> the vales are the same, they unscrew (but you must hold the lower pipe section
> while doing it) and yes the brownish water look is from a bad valve that
> allowed condensation to purp back up into the housing.

CRWLR

Are you thinking that the water in your air cleaner is coming from the pulse
air system? I don't think the water could be coming from that particular
source because the pulse air system injects cold air into the exhaust
stream, and the intake track is not connected.




"Joe C" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:TUxPb.90753$cM1.16174317@twister.nyc.rr.com.. .
> I've been finding water in the air cleaner, looks
> to me that at least one of the pulse air check valves
> is bad. I figure it would be the one that allows
> fresh air into the exhaust! Are the two check valves
> the same? How are they removed? I see clamps on
> the top, but the bottom looks a little wierd.
> Any help from the group would be appreciated.
> Thanks.
>
> Joe
> '89 YJ 4.2
>
>
>

CRWLR

Are you thinking that the water in your air cleaner is coming from the pulse
air system? I don't think the water could be coming from that particular
source because the pulse air system injects cold air into the exhaust
stream, and the intake track is not connected.




"Joe C" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:TUxPb.90753$cM1.16174317@twister.nyc.rr.com.. .
> I've been finding water in the air cleaner, looks
> to me that at least one of the pulse air check valves
> is bad. I figure it would be the one that allows
> fresh air into the exhaust! Are the two check valves
> the same? How are they removed? I see clamps on
> the top, but the bottom looks a little wierd.
> Any help from the group would be appreciated.
> Thanks.
>
> Joe
> '89 YJ 4.2
>
>
>

CRWLR

Are you thinking that the water in your air cleaner is coming from the pulse
air system? I don't think the water could be coming from that particular
source because the pulse air system injects cold air into the exhaust
stream, and the intake track is not connected.




"Joe C" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:TUxPb.90753$cM1.16174317@twister.nyc.rr.com.. .
> I've been finding water in the air cleaner, looks
> to me that at least one of the pulse air check valves
> is bad. I figure it would be the one that allows
> fresh air into the exhaust! Are the two check valves
> the same? How are they removed? I see clamps on
> the top, but the bottom looks a little wierd.
> Any help from the group would be appreciated.
> Thanks.
>
> Joe
> '89 YJ 4.2
>
>
>

CRWLR

"Joe C" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:5AEPb.90780$cM1.16319045@twister.nyc.rr.com.. .
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:400F14B7.B9D138D7@***.net...
> > It really doesn't hurt anything being there, all it does is pump
> > fresh air into the exhaust, it may cause a back fire if there to much
> > unburned gas, but it surely isn't responsible for water in your air
> > filter box. That may have come from water actually being splashed into
> > your intake tube, or very rarely from the valve cover blowby tube from
> > short distance runs where the engine never gets to full operating
> > temperature. Plus you may have to pass SMOG tests again.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> Bill, I cut and paste this from your link...
>
> <>
> The checkvalves in the Pulse Air System prevent backflow of exhaust
> into the carburetor. If one should go bad (stick open) and allow this,
> exhaust and water will spit into the air cleaner and be sucked down
> the carburetor. This is not good. Note that these tubes enter on the
> inside (clean side) of the filter element. This condition will lead to
rust
> in
> the tubes, as seen in this photo, and rusty or sooty stains inside the
> air cleaner (this one has been cleaned). DaimlerChrysler is very proud
> of its checkvalves, and a new one will set you back about $50.
> <>
>
> I have the water, I have the rust, if the shoe fits.........
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Joe
>
I just said the same thing as Bill, the pulse air is not responsible for the
water in the air cleaner. I guess I just learned something new.


Be very careful working with that air tube manifold, it breaks very easily
and costs lots o money. I was not able to find one for under $120, and it
was used. The only new one that I found was about $175.

I eventually removed the air tubes entirely, 4 of 6 were broken, and plugged
the holes with brass plugs from Homey D's.

CRWLR

"Joe C" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:5AEPb.90780$cM1.16319045@twister.nyc.rr.com.. .
>
> "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:400F14B7.B9D138D7@***.net...
> > It really doesn't hurt anything being there, all it does is pump
> > fresh air into the exhaust, it may cause a back fire if there to much
> > unburned gas, but it surely isn't responsible for water in your air
> > filter box. That may have come from water actually being splashed into
> > your intake tube, or very rarely from the valve cover blowby tube from
> > short distance runs where the engine never gets to full operating
> > temperature. Plus you may have to pass SMOG tests again.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> Bill, I cut and paste this from your link...
>
> <>
> The checkvalves in the Pulse Air System prevent backflow of exhaust
> into the carburetor. If one should go bad (stick open) and allow this,
> exhaust and water will spit into the air cleaner and be sucked down
> the carburetor. This is not good. Note that these tubes enter on the
> inside (clean side) of the filter element. This condition will lead to
rust
> in
> the tubes, as seen in this photo, and rusty or sooty stains inside the
> air cleaner (this one has been cleaned). DaimlerChrysler is very proud
> of its checkvalves, and a new one will set you back about $50.
> <>
>
> I have the water, I have the rust, if the shoe fits.........
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Joe
>
I just said the same thing as Bill, the pulse air is not responsible for the
water in the air cleaner. I guess I just learned something new.


Be very careful working with that air tube manifold, it breaks very easily
and costs lots o money. I was not able to find one for under $120, and it
was used. The only new one that I found was about $175.

I eventually removed the air tubes entirely, 4 of 6 were broken, and plugged
the holes with brass plugs from Homey D's.