89 Wrangler, won't idle
08-10-2004, 11:22 AM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Wrangler, won't idle
Man, that is the typical plugged up idle tube that happens to 'all' of
the Carter BBD's eventually.
It is an extremely easy fix that I can do on the side of the trail in
less than 15 minutes.... for free.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
Putting a carb kit in and giving it a good clean like you are supposed
to do every main tune up does them wonders.
And the timer is only for the O2 sensor, not EGR.
And your 'mechanic' is 'only' good at seeing a sucker coming....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Mark12211 wrote:
>
> I also have a 1989 Islander. Don't take the emissions junk out, you'll never
> get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
> the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
> I used the brakes the engine would die.
>
> My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
> (trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
> when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
> leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
> run very rich.
>
> When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
> should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
> Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
> out a long time ago.
>
> -Mark
>
> Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
> Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
the Carter BBD's eventually.
It is an extremely easy fix that I can do on the side of the trail in
less than 15 minutes.... for free.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
Putting a carb kit in and giving it a good clean like you are supposed
to do every main tune up does them wonders.
And the timer is only for the O2 sensor, not EGR.
And your 'mechanic' is 'only' good at seeing a sucker coming....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Mark12211 wrote:
>
> I also have a 1989 Islander. Don't take the emissions junk out, you'll never
> get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
> the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
> I used the brakes the engine would die.
>
> My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
> (trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
> when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
> leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
> run very rich.
>
> When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
> should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
> Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
> out a long time ago.
>
> -Mark
>
> Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
> Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
08-10-2004, 11:22 AM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Wrangler, won't idle
Man, that is the typical plugged up idle tube that happens to 'all' of
the Carter BBD's eventually.
It is an extremely easy fix that I can do on the side of the trail in
less than 15 minutes.... for free.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
Putting a carb kit in and giving it a good clean like you are supposed
to do every main tune up does them wonders.
And the timer is only for the O2 sensor, not EGR.
And your 'mechanic' is 'only' good at seeing a sucker coming....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Mark12211 wrote:
>
> I also have a 1989 Islander. Don't take the emissions junk out, you'll never
> get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
> the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
> I used the brakes the engine would die.
>
> My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
> (trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
> when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
> leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
> run very rich.
>
> When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
> should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
> Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
> out a long time ago.
>
> -Mark
>
> Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
> Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
the Carter BBD's eventually.
It is an extremely easy fix that I can do on the side of the trail in
less than 15 minutes.... for free.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
Putting a carb kit in and giving it a good clean like you are supposed
to do every main tune up does them wonders.
And the timer is only for the O2 sensor, not EGR.
And your 'mechanic' is 'only' good at seeing a sucker coming....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Mark12211 wrote:
>
> I also have a 1989 Islander. Don't take the emissions junk out, you'll never
> get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
> the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
> I used the brakes the engine would die.
>
> My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
> (trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
> when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
> leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
> run very rich.
>
> When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
> should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
> Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
> out a long time ago.
>
> -Mark
>
> Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
> Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
08-10-2004, 11:22 AM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Wrangler, won't idle
Man, that is the typical plugged up idle tube that happens to 'all' of
the Carter BBD's eventually.
It is an extremely easy fix that I can do on the side of the trail in
less than 15 minutes.... for free.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
Putting a carb kit in and giving it a good clean like you are supposed
to do every main tune up does them wonders.
And the timer is only for the O2 sensor, not EGR.
And your 'mechanic' is 'only' good at seeing a sucker coming....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Mark12211 wrote:
>
> I also have a 1989 Islander. Don't take the emissions junk out, you'll never
> get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
> the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
> I used the brakes the engine would die.
>
> My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
> (trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
> when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
> leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
> run very rich.
>
> When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
> should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
> Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
> out a long time ago.
>
> -Mark
>
> Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
> Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
the Carter BBD's eventually.
It is an extremely easy fix that I can do on the side of the trail in
less than 15 minutes.... for free.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
Putting a carb kit in and giving it a good clean like you are supposed
to do every main tune up does them wonders.
And the timer is only for the O2 sensor, not EGR.
And your 'mechanic' is 'only' good at seeing a sucker coming....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Mark12211 wrote:
>
> I also have a 1989 Islander. Don't take the emissions junk out, you'll never
> get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
> the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
> I used the brakes the engine would die.
>
> My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
> (trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
> when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
> leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
> run very rich.
>
> When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
> should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
> Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
> out a long time ago.
>
> -Mark
>
> Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
> Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
08-11-2004, 12:45 AM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Wrangler, won't idle
In message <20040810104019.22107.00001303@mb-m07.aol.com>, "Mark12211" wrote:
>I also have a 1989 Islander. Don't take the emissions junk out, you'll never
>get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
>the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
>I used the brakes the engine would die.
>
>My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
>(trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
>when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
>leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
>run very rich.
Oh man, where to start....
Your Jeep was running too lean. Most likely one or both idle tubes plugged.
When this happens it idles rough and stalls. So, not knowing any better, you
raise the idle, opening the throttle enough to start 'siphoning' fuel through
the venturi. Then you mess around and lean it "as lean as it could be", making
things worse. Then you open the throttle more, causing more siphoning. Seeing
the fuel "leaking", you assume it's rich. Nope.
In steps 'super mechanic' and:
>When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
>should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
>Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
>out a long time ago.
You've now paid for a new EGR valve that, if replaced solely because of mileage,
you didn't need.
Congratulations, you've been had.
Replacing the carb will fix one problem, but if he's replacing it because he
thought it was rich, he's fixing it by accident.
>
>-Mark
>
>Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
>Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
Thanks for the warning.
>I also have a 1989 Islander. Don't take the emissions junk out, you'll never
>get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
>the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
>I used the brakes the engine would die.
>
>My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
>(trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
>when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
>leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
>run very rich.
Oh man, where to start....
Your Jeep was running too lean. Most likely one or both idle tubes plugged.
When this happens it idles rough and stalls. So, not knowing any better, you
raise the idle, opening the throttle enough to start 'siphoning' fuel through
the venturi. Then you mess around and lean it "as lean as it could be", making
things worse. Then you open the throttle more, causing more siphoning. Seeing
the fuel "leaking", you assume it's rich. Nope.
In steps 'super mechanic' and:
>When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
>should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
>Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
>out a long time ago.
You've now paid for a new EGR valve that, if replaced solely because of mileage,
you didn't need.
Congratulations, you've been had.
Replacing the carb will fix one problem, but if he's replacing it because he
thought it was rich, he's fixing it by accident.
>
>-Mark
>
>Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
>Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
Thanks for the warning.
08-11-2004, 12:45 AM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Wrangler, won't idle
In message <20040810104019.22107.00001303@mb-m07.aol.com>, "Mark12211" wrote:
>I also have a 1989 Islander. Don't take the emissions junk out, you'll never
>get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
>the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
>I used the brakes the engine would die.
>
>My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
>(trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
>when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
>leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
>run very rich.
Oh man, where to start....
Your Jeep was running too lean. Most likely one or both idle tubes plugged.
When this happens it idles rough and stalls. So, not knowing any better, you
raise the idle, opening the throttle enough to start 'siphoning' fuel through
the venturi. Then you mess around and lean it "as lean as it could be", making
things worse. Then you open the throttle more, causing more siphoning. Seeing
the fuel "leaking", you assume it's rich. Nope.
In steps 'super mechanic' and:
>When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
>should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
>Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
>out a long time ago.
You've now paid for a new EGR valve that, if replaced solely because of mileage,
you didn't need.
Congratulations, you've been had.
Replacing the carb will fix one problem, but if he's replacing it because he
thought it was rich, he's fixing it by accident.
>
>-Mark
>
>Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
>Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
Thanks for the warning.
>I also have a 1989 Islander. Don't take the emissions junk out, you'll never
>get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
>the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
>I used the brakes the engine would die.
>
>My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
>(trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
>when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
>leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
>run very rich.
Oh man, where to start....
Your Jeep was running too lean. Most likely one or both idle tubes plugged.
When this happens it idles rough and stalls. So, not knowing any better, you
raise the idle, opening the throttle enough to start 'siphoning' fuel through
the venturi. Then you mess around and lean it "as lean as it could be", making
things worse. Then you open the throttle more, causing more siphoning. Seeing
the fuel "leaking", you assume it's rich. Nope.
In steps 'super mechanic' and:
>When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
>should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
>Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
>out a long time ago.
You've now paid for a new EGR valve that, if replaced solely because of mileage,
you didn't need.
Congratulations, you've been had.
Replacing the carb will fix one problem, but if he's replacing it because he
thought it was rich, he's fixing it by accident.
>
>-Mark
>
>Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
>Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
Thanks for the warning.
08-11-2004, 12:45 AM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Wrangler, won't idle
In message <20040810104019.22107.00001303@mb-m07.aol.com>, "Mark12211" wrote:
>I also have a 1989 Islander. Don't take the emissions junk out, you'll never
>get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
>the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
>I used the brakes the engine would die.
>
>My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
>(trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
>when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
>leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
>run very rich.
Oh man, where to start....
Your Jeep was running too lean. Most likely one or both idle tubes plugged.
When this happens it idles rough and stalls. So, not knowing any better, you
raise the idle, opening the throttle enough to start 'siphoning' fuel through
the venturi. Then you mess around and lean it "as lean as it could be", making
things worse. Then you open the throttle more, causing more siphoning. Seeing
the fuel "leaking", you assume it's rich. Nope.
In steps 'super mechanic' and:
>When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
>should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
>Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
>out a long time ago.
You've now paid for a new EGR valve that, if replaced solely because of mileage,
you didn't need.
Congratulations, you've been had.
Replacing the carb will fix one problem, but if he's replacing it because he
thought it was rich, he's fixing it by accident.
>
>-Mark
>
>Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
>Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
Thanks for the warning.
>I also have a 1989 Islander. Don't take the emissions junk out, you'll never
>get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
>the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
>I used the brakes the engine would die.
>
>My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
>(trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
>when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
>leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
>run very rich.
Oh man, where to start....
Your Jeep was running too lean. Most likely one or both idle tubes plugged.
When this happens it idles rough and stalls. So, not knowing any better, you
raise the idle, opening the throttle enough to start 'siphoning' fuel through
the venturi. Then you mess around and lean it "as lean as it could be", making
things worse. Then you open the throttle more, causing more siphoning. Seeing
the fuel "leaking", you assume it's rich. Nope.
In steps 'super mechanic' and:
>When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
>should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
>Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
>out a long time ago.
You've now paid for a new EGR valve that, if replaced solely because of mileage,
you didn't need.
Congratulations, you've been had.
Replacing the carb will fix one problem, but if he's replacing it because he
thought it was rich, he's fixing it by accident.
>
>-Mark
>
>Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
>Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
Thanks for the warning.
08-11-2004, 12:45 AM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Wrangler, won't idle
In message <20040810104019.22107.00001303@mb-m07.aol.com>, "Mark12211" wrote:
>I also have a 1989 Islander. Don't take the emissions junk out, you'll never
>get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
>the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
>I used the brakes the engine would die.
>
>My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
>(trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
>when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
>leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
>run very rich.
Oh man, where to start....
Your Jeep was running too lean. Most likely one or both idle tubes plugged.
When this happens it idles rough and stalls. So, not knowing any better, you
raise the idle, opening the throttle enough to start 'siphoning' fuel through
the venturi. Then you mess around and lean it "as lean as it could be", making
things worse. Then you open the throttle more, causing more siphoning. Seeing
the fuel "leaking", you assume it's rich. Nope.
In steps 'super mechanic' and:
>When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
>should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
>Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
>out a long time ago.
You've now paid for a new EGR valve that, if replaced solely because of mileage,
you didn't need.
Congratulations, you've been had.
Replacing the carb will fix one problem, but if he's replacing it because he
thought it was rich, he's fixing it by accident.
>
>-Mark
>
>Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
>Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
Thanks for the warning.
>I also have a 1989 Islander. Don't take the emissions junk out, you'll never
>get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
>the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
>I used the brakes the engine would die.
>
>My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
>(trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
>when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
>leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
>run very rich.
Oh man, where to start....
Your Jeep was running too lean. Most likely one or both idle tubes plugged.
When this happens it idles rough and stalls. So, not knowing any better, you
raise the idle, opening the throttle enough to start 'siphoning' fuel through
the venturi. Then you mess around and lean it "as lean as it could be", making
things worse. Then you open the throttle more, causing more siphoning. Seeing
the fuel "leaking", you assume it's rich. Nope.
In steps 'super mechanic' and:
>When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
>should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
>Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
>out a long time ago.
You've now paid for a new EGR valve that, if replaced solely because of mileage,
you didn't need.
Congratulations, you've been had.
Replacing the carb will fix one problem, but if he's replacing it because he
thought it was rich, he's fixing it by accident.
>
>-Mark
>
>Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
>Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
Thanks for the warning.
08-11-2004, 10:43 AM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Wrangler, won't idle
>
>Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
>Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
>
Springfield Ohio... A little far to drive for a carb rebuild. However, the
info you have given is great. Sounds just like what we are seeing. Carb
rebuild, EGR valve and we will go from there. Thank you very much.
TMax
>Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
>Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
>
Springfield Ohio... A little far to drive for a carb rebuild. However, the
info you have given is great. Sounds just like what we are seeing. Carb
rebuild, EGR valve and we will go from there. Thank you very much.
TMax
08-11-2004, 10:43 AM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Wrangler, won't idle
>
>Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
>Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
>
Springfield Ohio... A little far to drive for a carb rebuild. However, the
info you have given is great. Sounds just like what we are seeing. Carb
rebuild, EGR valve and we will go from there. Thank you very much.
TMax
>Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
>Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
>
Springfield Ohio... A little far to drive for a carb rebuild. However, the
info you have given is great. Sounds just like what we are seeing. Carb
rebuild, EGR valve and we will go from there. Thank you very much.
TMax
08-11-2004, 10:43 AM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Wrangler, won't idle
>
>Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
>Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
>
Springfield Ohio... A little far to drive for a carb rebuild. However, the
info you have given is great. Sounds just like what we are seeing. Carb
rebuild, EGR valve and we will go from there. Thank you very much.
TMax
>Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
>Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
>
Springfield Ohio... A little far to drive for a carb rebuild. However, the
info you have given is great. Sounds just like what we are seeing. Carb
rebuild, EGR valve and we will go from there. Thank you very much.
TMax