89 Wrangler, won't idle
08-09-2004, 08:55 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
89 Wrangler, won't idle
OK... We have been through a lot with this Islander... 258 6 cyl.
Has new cap rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter. Won't idle and is running rich
(smell unburnt fuel). It also wants to fall on it's face when you rev it out.
Question is... Is there an easy way to trace down what the problem is? Or, do
we put an aftermarket intake, carb, header and just lose the emissions junk?
Seriously, we don't object to going with aftermarket parts and doing a little
upgrading as long as we can get rid of this idle / running problem.
Any sites that can help with recommending upgrades?
Appreciate your help.
TMax
Has new cap rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter. Won't idle and is running rich
(smell unburnt fuel). It also wants to fall on it's face when you rev it out.
Question is... Is there an easy way to trace down what the problem is? Or, do
we put an aftermarket intake, carb, header and just lose the emissions junk?
Seriously, we don't object to going with aftermarket parts and doing a little
upgrading as long as we can get rid of this idle / running problem.
Any sites that can help with recommending upgrades?
Appreciate your help.
TMax
08-10-2004, 10:05 AM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Wrangler, won't idle
For some reason, mechanics seem to forget (or they aren't old enough to
know, LOL) that a carb is supposed to get a rebuild kit every time you
change the spark plugs/cap and rotor.
A kit for that carb is about twenty bucks and is easy to put in.
While you are in there, you will find these two brass tubes with crimped
ends that have plugged up. The crimps are too small and need to be
physically reamed to get them clean, chemicals just won't do it. I use
a set of welding torch tip files for cleaning them. These files are
cheap and metered sizes.
Here is a decent write-up on cleaning the idle tubes:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
You 'can' also disable the computer to get increased performance and to
kill the governor that stops the rpms at 3500, but you should address
the carb first.
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
TSMaxel wrote:
>
> OK... We have been through a lot with this Islander... 258 6 cyl.
>
> Has new cap rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter. Won't idle and is running rich
> (smell unburnt fuel). It also wants to fall on it's face when you rev it out.
>
> Question is... Is there an easy way to trace down what the problem is? Or, do
> we put an aftermarket intake, carb, header and just lose the emissions junk?
> Seriously, we don't object to going with aftermarket parts and doing a little
> upgrading as long as we can get rid of this idle / running problem.
>
> Any sites that can help with recommending upgrades?
>
> Appreciate your help.
>
> TMax
know, LOL) that a carb is supposed to get a rebuild kit every time you
change the spark plugs/cap and rotor.
A kit for that carb is about twenty bucks and is easy to put in.
While you are in there, you will find these two brass tubes with crimped
ends that have plugged up. The crimps are too small and need to be
physically reamed to get them clean, chemicals just won't do it. I use
a set of welding torch tip files for cleaning them. These files are
cheap and metered sizes.
Here is a decent write-up on cleaning the idle tubes:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
You 'can' also disable the computer to get increased performance and to
kill the governor that stops the rpms at 3500, but you should address
the carb first.
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
TSMaxel wrote:
>
> OK... We have been through a lot with this Islander... 258 6 cyl.
>
> Has new cap rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter. Won't idle and is running rich
> (smell unburnt fuel). It also wants to fall on it's face when you rev it out.
>
> Question is... Is there an easy way to trace down what the problem is? Or, do
> we put an aftermarket intake, carb, header and just lose the emissions junk?
> Seriously, we don't object to going with aftermarket parts and doing a little
> upgrading as long as we can get rid of this idle / running problem.
>
> Any sites that can help with recommending upgrades?
>
> Appreciate your help.
>
> TMax
08-10-2004, 10:05 AM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Wrangler, won't idle
For some reason, mechanics seem to forget (or they aren't old enough to
know, LOL) that a carb is supposed to get a rebuild kit every time you
change the spark plugs/cap and rotor.
A kit for that carb is about twenty bucks and is easy to put in.
While you are in there, you will find these two brass tubes with crimped
ends that have plugged up. The crimps are too small and need to be
physically reamed to get them clean, chemicals just won't do it. I use
a set of welding torch tip files for cleaning them. These files are
cheap and metered sizes.
Here is a decent write-up on cleaning the idle tubes:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
You 'can' also disable the computer to get increased performance and to
kill the governor that stops the rpms at 3500, but you should address
the carb first.
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
TSMaxel wrote:
>
> OK... We have been through a lot with this Islander... 258 6 cyl.
>
> Has new cap rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter. Won't idle and is running rich
> (smell unburnt fuel). It also wants to fall on it's face when you rev it out.
>
> Question is... Is there an easy way to trace down what the problem is? Or, do
> we put an aftermarket intake, carb, header and just lose the emissions junk?
> Seriously, we don't object to going with aftermarket parts and doing a little
> upgrading as long as we can get rid of this idle / running problem.
>
> Any sites that can help with recommending upgrades?
>
> Appreciate your help.
>
> TMax
know, LOL) that a carb is supposed to get a rebuild kit every time you
change the spark plugs/cap and rotor.
A kit for that carb is about twenty bucks and is easy to put in.
While you are in there, you will find these two brass tubes with crimped
ends that have plugged up. The crimps are too small and need to be
physically reamed to get them clean, chemicals just won't do it. I use
a set of welding torch tip files for cleaning them. These files are
cheap and metered sizes.
Here is a decent write-up on cleaning the idle tubes:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
You 'can' also disable the computer to get increased performance and to
kill the governor that stops the rpms at 3500, but you should address
the carb first.
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
TSMaxel wrote:
>
> OK... We have been through a lot with this Islander... 258 6 cyl.
>
> Has new cap rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter. Won't idle and is running rich
> (smell unburnt fuel). It also wants to fall on it's face when you rev it out.
>
> Question is... Is there an easy way to trace down what the problem is? Or, do
> we put an aftermarket intake, carb, header and just lose the emissions junk?
> Seriously, we don't object to going with aftermarket parts and doing a little
> upgrading as long as we can get rid of this idle / running problem.
>
> Any sites that can help with recommending upgrades?
>
> Appreciate your help.
>
> TMax
08-10-2004, 10:05 AM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Wrangler, won't idle
For some reason, mechanics seem to forget (or they aren't old enough to
know, LOL) that a carb is supposed to get a rebuild kit every time you
change the spark plugs/cap and rotor.
A kit for that carb is about twenty bucks and is easy to put in.
While you are in there, you will find these two brass tubes with crimped
ends that have plugged up. The crimps are too small and need to be
physically reamed to get them clean, chemicals just won't do it. I use
a set of welding torch tip files for cleaning them. These files are
cheap and metered sizes.
Here is a decent write-up on cleaning the idle tubes:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
You 'can' also disable the computer to get increased performance and to
kill the governor that stops the rpms at 3500, but you should address
the carb first.
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
TSMaxel wrote:
>
> OK... We have been through a lot with this Islander... 258 6 cyl.
>
> Has new cap rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter. Won't idle and is running rich
> (smell unburnt fuel). It also wants to fall on it's face when you rev it out.
>
> Question is... Is there an easy way to trace down what the problem is? Or, do
> we put an aftermarket intake, carb, header and just lose the emissions junk?
> Seriously, we don't object to going with aftermarket parts and doing a little
> upgrading as long as we can get rid of this idle / running problem.
>
> Any sites that can help with recommending upgrades?
>
> Appreciate your help.
>
> TMax
know, LOL) that a carb is supposed to get a rebuild kit every time you
change the spark plugs/cap and rotor.
A kit for that carb is about twenty bucks and is easy to put in.
While you are in there, you will find these two brass tubes with crimped
ends that have plugged up. The crimps are too small and need to be
physically reamed to get them clean, chemicals just won't do it. I use
a set of welding torch tip files for cleaning them. These files are
cheap and metered sizes.
Here is a decent write-up on cleaning the idle tubes:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
You 'can' also disable the computer to get increased performance and to
kill the governor that stops the rpms at 3500, but you should address
the carb first.
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
TSMaxel wrote:
>
> OK... We have been through a lot with this Islander... 258 6 cyl.
>
> Has new cap rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter. Won't idle and is running rich
> (smell unburnt fuel). It also wants to fall on it's face when you rev it out.
>
> Question is... Is there an easy way to trace down what the problem is? Or, do
> we put an aftermarket intake, carb, header and just lose the emissions junk?
> Seriously, we don't object to going with aftermarket parts and doing a little
> upgrading as long as we can get rid of this idle / running problem.
>
> Any sites that can help with recommending upgrades?
>
> Appreciate your help.
>
> TMax
08-10-2004, 10:05 AM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Wrangler, won't idle
For some reason, mechanics seem to forget (or they aren't old enough to
know, LOL) that a carb is supposed to get a rebuild kit every time you
change the spark plugs/cap and rotor.
A kit for that carb is about twenty bucks and is easy to put in.
While you are in there, you will find these two brass tubes with crimped
ends that have plugged up. The crimps are too small and need to be
physically reamed to get them clean, chemicals just won't do it. I use
a set of welding torch tip files for cleaning them. These files are
cheap and metered sizes.
Here is a decent write-up on cleaning the idle tubes:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
You 'can' also disable the computer to get increased performance and to
kill the governor that stops the rpms at 3500, but you should address
the carb first.
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
TSMaxel wrote:
>
> OK... We have been through a lot with this Islander... 258 6 cyl.
>
> Has new cap rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter. Won't idle and is running rich
> (smell unburnt fuel). It also wants to fall on it's face when you rev it out.
>
> Question is... Is there an easy way to trace down what the problem is? Or, do
> we put an aftermarket intake, carb, header and just lose the emissions junk?
> Seriously, we don't object to going with aftermarket parts and doing a little
> upgrading as long as we can get rid of this idle / running problem.
>
> Any sites that can help with recommending upgrades?
>
> Appreciate your help.
>
> TMax
know, LOL) that a carb is supposed to get a rebuild kit every time you
change the spark plugs/cap and rotor.
A kit for that carb is about twenty bucks and is easy to put in.
While you are in there, you will find these two brass tubes with crimped
ends that have plugged up. The crimps are too small and need to be
physically reamed to get them clean, chemicals just won't do it. I use
a set of welding torch tip files for cleaning them. These files are
cheap and metered sizes.
Here is a decent write-up on cleaning the idle tubes:
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
You 'can' also disable the computer to get increased performance and to
kill the governor that stops the rpms at 3500, but you should address
the carb first.
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
TSMaxel wrote:
>
> OK... We have been through a lot with this Islander... 258 6 cyl.
>
> Has new cap rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter. Won't idle and is running rich
> (smell unburnt fuel). It also wants to fall on it's face when you rev it out.
>
> Question is... Is there an easy way to trace down what the problem is? Or, do
> we put an aftermarket intake, carb, header and just lose the emissions junk?
> Seriously, we don't object to going with aftermarket parts and doing a little
> upgrading as long as we can get rid of this idle / running problem.
>
> Any sites that can help with recommending upgrades?
>
> Appreciate your help.
>
> TMax
08-10-2004, 10:40 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Wrangler, won't idle
I also have a 1989 Islander. Don't take the emissions junk out, you'll never
get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
I used the brakes the engine would die.
My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
(trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
run very rich.
When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
out a long time ago.
-Mark
Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
I used the brakes the engine would die.
My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
(trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
run very rich.
When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
out a long time ago.
-Mark
Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
08-10-2004, 10:40 AM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Wrangler, won't idle
I also have a 1989 Islander. Don't take the emissions junk out, you'll never
get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
I used the brakes the engine would die.
My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
(trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
run very rich.
When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
out a long time ago.
-Mark
Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
I used the brakes the engine would die.
My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
(trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
run very rich.
When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
out a long time ago.
-Mark
Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
08-10-2004, 10:40 AM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Wrangler, won't idle
I also have a 1989 Islander. Don't take the emissions junk out, you'll never
get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
I used the brakes the engine would die.
My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
(trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
run very rich.
When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
out a long time ago.
-Mark
Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
I used the brakes the engine would die.
My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
(trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
run very rich.
When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
out a long time ago.
-Mark
Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
08-10-2004, 10:40 AM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Wrangler, won't idle
I also have a 1989 Islander. Don't take the emissions junk out, you'll never
get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
I used the brakes the engine would die.
My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
(trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
run very rich.
When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
out a long time ago.
-Mark
Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
I used the brakes the engine would die.
My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
(trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
run very rich.
When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
out a long time ago.
-Mark
Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
08-10-2004, 11:22 AM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 Wrangler, won't idle
Man, that is the typical plugged up idle tube that happens to 'all' of
the Carter BBD's eventually.
It is an extremely easy fix that I can do on the side of the trail in
less than 15 minutes.... for free.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
Putting a carb kit in and giving it a good clean like you are supposed
to do every main tune up does them wonders.
And the timer is only for the O2 sensor, not EGR.
And your 'mechanic' is 'only' good at seeing a sucker coming....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Mark12211 wrote:
>
> I also have a 1989 Islander. Don't take the emissions junk out, you'll never
> get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
> the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
> I used the brakes the engine would die.
>
> My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
> (trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
> when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
> leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
> run very rich.
>
> When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
> should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
> Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
> out a long time ago.
>
> -Mark
>
> Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
> Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
the Carter BBD's eventually.
It is an extremely easy fix that I can do on the side of the trail in
less than 15 minutes.... for free.
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/engine/carter.html
Putting a carb kit in and giving it a good clean like you are supposed
to do every main tune up does them wonders.
And the timer is only for the O2 sensor, not EGR.
And your 'mechanic' is 'only' good at seeing a sucker coming....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Mark12211 wrote:
>
> I also have a 1989 Islander. Don't take the emissions junk out, you'll never
> get it to run right. Bring it to a shop to have a new carb put in. Mine's in
> the shop now, $300 for a rebuilt unit. My carb got so bad (leaking) that when
> I used the brakes the engine would die.
>
> My carb was running rich also. When I took the air cleaner off while it was
> (trying to) idle, when you looked down the carb... the jets would spray fine
> when the gas was pressed, but one jet would leak at idle too badly. It would
> leak that bad even when it was set as lean as it could be. This made the Jeep
> run very rich.
>
> When you have your carb put in, have them put in a new EGR valve as well. This
> should be replaced every 80k miles. There is a timer that sets the Check
> Engine light off to tell you to change the EGR, but I'm sure that was ripped
> out a long time ago.
>
> -Mark
>
> Where are you located? There is a great mechanic that does a great job with
> Jeeps in Schenectady New York.
