88 Wrangler - 4.2L with leaking valve cover
12-28-2005, 01:24 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Wrangler - 4.2L with leaking valve cover
There are plenty of jeep valve cover gaskets out there, I just can't
find one for the 88 jeep wrangler with the 4.2L engine. I think I will
go with the permatex rtv route, sounds like people have had luck with
it. I suppose I will have to whip out some degreaser before I get
started; its lookin' pretty dirty under the hood.
Thanks for the help guys... I'll have to let you know how it goes.
find one for the 88 jeep wrangler with the 4.2L engine. I think I will
go with the permatex rtv route, sounds like people have had luck with
it. I suppose I will have to whip out some degreaser before I get
started; its lookin' pretty dirty under the hood.
Thanks for the help guys... I'll have to let you know how it goes.
12-28-2005, 01:24 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Wrangler - 4.2L with leaking valve cover
There are plenty of jeep valve cover gaskets out there, I just can't
find one for the 88 jeep wrangler with the 4.2L engine. I think I will
go with the permatex rtv route, sounds like people have had luck with
it. I suppose I will have to whip out some degreaser before I get
started; its lookin' pretty dirty under the hood.
Thanks for the help guys... I'll have to let you know how it goes.
find one for the 88 jeep wrangler with the 4.2L engine. I think I will
go with the permatex rtv route, sounds like people have had luck with
it. I suppose I will have to whip out some degreaser before I get
started; its lookin' pretty dirty under the hood.
Thanks for the help guys... I'll have to let you know how it goes.
12-28-2005, 01:24 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Wrangler - 4.2L with leaking valve cover
There are plenty of jeep valve cover gaskets out there, I just can't
find one for the 88 jeep wrangler with the 4.2L engine. I think I will
go with the permatex rtv route, sounds like people have had luck with
it. I suppose I will have to whip out some degreaser before I get
started; its lookin' pretty dirty under the hood.
Thanks for the help guys... I'll have to let you know how it goes.
find one for the 88 jeep wrangler with the 4.2L engine. I think I will
go with the permatex rtv route, sounds like people have had luck with
it. I suppose I will have to whip out some degreaser before I get
started; its lookin' pretty dirty under the hood.
Thanks for the help guys... I'll have to let you know how it goes.
12-28-2005, 01:29 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Wrangler - 4.2L with leaking valve cover
I know zip about Jeep but when I was wrenching for $$$ we used to "stipple" cast
iron surfaces that use cork gaskets to keep the gaskets from sqeezing out from
between the mateing surfaces. This involves creating alot of little "stiples" -
minor crators - in the iron by sharply *tapping* a very sharp center punch with
a light hammer. The raised rims of the stipples hold the gasket in place. This
shortens the 24 hour wait.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:43B2A506.7439F49A@sympatico.ca...
> Yup, we all do them a bit different.
>
> They can't be too clean. Even one fingerprint on the mating surfaces
> will cause a leak.
>
> I haven't had any issues finding new gaskets. They make the cork ones
> and a total rip off expensive rubber one that just plain don't work. I
> think my last cork one was a 'fel pro' or something like that.
>
> Once everything is super clean, I coat the engine head surface lightly
> with Black RTV and put a light coat in the valve cover ridge, then
> sandwich the cork in and tighten down to specs.
>
> I then don't even breath on the sucker for 24 hours to let the RTV cure
> like the directions say.
>
> I never re-torque anything that uses RTV after it cures because in my
> mind, this will break the nice seal I just spent the day making....
>
> You also need to get the proper 'sensor safe' RTV. Normal RTV or
> silicone fumes in the air will instantly kill your O2 sensor.
>
> My last gasket replacement was in 2001 I believe and it is still holding
> strong.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> "new2jeep-usenet@yahoo.com" wrote:
> >
> > I have an 88 wrangler 4.2L with a leaking valve cover. The trouble I
> > am having is that I can not find a replacement gasket for the valve
> > cover. Is there a replacement gasket available, and if not can I just
> > use RTV or equivalent?
> >
> > Word of note, I am new to the jeep scene and am not a real seasoned
> > mechanic but this looks easy enough to handle given a little direction.
> >
> > Thanks
iron surfaces that use cork gaskets to keep the gaskets from sqeezing out from
between the mateing surfaces. This involves creating alot of little "stiples" -
minor crators - in the iron by sharply *tapping* a very sharp center punch with
a light hammer. The raised rims of the stipples hold the gasket in place. This
shortens the 24 hour wait.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:43B2A506.7439F49A@sympatico.ca...
> Yup, we all do them a bit different.
>
> They can't be too clean. Even one fingerprint on the mating surfaces
> will cause a leak.
>
> I haven't had any issues finding new gaskets. They make the cork ones
> and a total rip off expensive rubber one that just plain don't work. I
> think my last cork one was a 'fel pro' or something like that.
>
> Once everything is super clean, I coat the engine head surface lightly
> with Black RTV and put a light coat in the valve cover ridge, then
> sandwich the cork in and tighten down to specs.
>
> I then don't even breath on the sucker for 24 hours to let the RTV cure
> like the directions say.
>
> I never re-torque anything that uses RTV after it cures because in my
> mind, this will break the nice seal I just spent the day making....
>
> You also need to get the proper 'sensor safe' RTV. Normal RTV or
> silicone fumes in the air will instantly kill your O2 sensor.
>
> My last gasket replacement was in 2001 I believe and it is still holding
> strong.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> "new2jeep-usenet@yahoo.com" wrote:
> >
> > I have an 88 wrangler 4.2L with a leaking valve cover. The trouble I
> > am having is that I can not find a replacement gasket for the valve
> > cover. Is there a replacement gasket available, and if not can I just
> > use RTV or equivalent?
> >
> > Word of note, I am new to the jeep scene and am not a real seasoned
> > mechanic but this looks easy enough to handle given a little direction.
> >
> > Thanks
12-28-2005, 01:29 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Wrangler - 4.2L with leaking valve cover
I know zip about Jeep but when I was wrenching for $$$ we used to "stipple" cast
iron surfaces that use cork gaskets to keep the gaskets from sqeezing out from
between the mateing surfaces. This involves creating alot of little "stiples" -
minor crators - in the iron by sharply *tapping* a very sharp center punch with
a light hammer. The raised rims of the stipples hold the gasket in place. This
shortens the 24 hour wait.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:43B2A506.7439F49A@sympatico.ca...
> Yup, we all do them a bit different.
>
> They can't be too clean. Even one fingerprint on the mating surfaces
> will cause a leak.
>
> I haven't had any issues finding new gaskets. They make the cork ones
> and a total rip off expensive rubber one that just plain don't work. I
> think my last cork one was a 'fel pro' or something like that.
>
> Once everything is super clean, I coat the engine head surface lightly
> with Black RTV and put a light coat in the valve cover ridge, then
> sandwich the cork in and tighten down to specs.
>
> I then don't even breath on the sucker for 24 hours to let the RTV cure
> like the directions say.
>
> I never re-torque anything that uses RTV after it cures because in my
> mind, this will break the nice seal I just spent the day making....
>
> You also need to get the proper 'sensor safe' RTV. Normal RTV or
> silicone fumes in the air will instantly kill your O2 sensor.
>
> My last gasket replacement was in 2001 I believe and it is still holding
> strong.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> "new2jeep-usenet@yahoo.com" wrote:
> >
> > I have an 88 wrangler 4.2L with a leaking valve cover. The trouble I
> > am having is that I can not find a replacement gasket for the valve
> > cover. Is there a replacement gasket available, and if not can I just
> > use RTV or equivalent?
> >
> > Word of note, I am new to the jeep scene and am not a real seasoned
> > mechanic but this looks easy enough to handle given a little direction.
> >
> > Thanks
iron surfaces that use cork gaskets to keep the gaskets from sqeezing out from
between the mateing surfaces. This involves creating alot of little "stiples" -
minor crators - in the iron by sharply *tapping* a very sharp center punch with
a light hammer. The raised rims of the stipples hold the gasket in place. This
shortens the 24 hour wait.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:43B2A506.7439F49A@sympatico.ca...
> Yup, we all do them a bit different.
>
> They can't be too clean. Even one fingerprint on the mating surfaces
> will cause a leak.
>
> I haven't had any issues finding new gaskets. They make the cork ones
> and a total rip off expensive rubber one that just plain don't work. I
> think my last cork one was a 'fel pro' or something like that.
>
> Once everything is super clean, I coat the engine head surface lightly
> with Black RTV and put a light coat in the valve cover ridge, then
> sandwich the cork in and tighten down to specs.
>
> I then don't even breath on the sucker for 24 hours to let the RTV cure
> like the directions say.
>
> I never re-torque anything that uses RTV after it cures because in my
> mind, this will break the nice seal I just spent the day making....
>
> You also need to get the proper 'sensor safe' RTV. Normal RTV or
> silicone fumes in the air will instantly kill your O2 sensor.
>
> My last gasket replacement was in 2001 I believe and it is still holding
> strong.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> "new2jeep-usenet@yahoo.com" wrote:
> >
> > I have an 88 wrangler 4.2L with a leaking valve cover. The trouble I
> > am having is that I can not find a replacement gasket for the valve
> > cover. Is there a replacement gasket available, and if not can I just
> > use RTV or equivalent?
> >
> > Word of note, I am new to the jeep scene and am not a real seasoned
> > mechanic but this looks easy enough to handle given a little direction.
> >
> > Thanks
12-28-2005, 01:29 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Wrangler - 4.2L with leaking valve cover
I know zip about Jeep but when I was wrenching for $$$ we used to "stipple" cast
iron surfaces that use cork gaskets to keep the gaskets from sqeezing out from
between the mateing surfaces. This involves creating alot of little "stiples" -
minor crators - in the iron by sharply *tapping* a very sharp center punch with
a light hammer. The raised rims of the stipples hold the gasket in place. This
shortens the 24 hour wait.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:43B2A506.7439F49A@sympatico.ca...
> Yup, we all do them a bit different.
>
> They can't be too clean. Even one fingerprint on the mating surfaces
> will cause a leak.
>
> I haven't had any issues finding new gaskets. They make the cork ones
> and a total rip off expensive rubber one that just plain don't work. I
> think my last cork one was a 'fel pro' or something like that.
>
> Once everything is super clean, I coat the engine head surface lightly
> with Black RTV and put a light coat in the valve cover ridge, then
> sandwich the cork in and tighten down to specs.
>
> I then don't even breath on the sucker for 24 hours to let the RTV cure
> like the directions say.
>
> I never re-torque anything that uses RTV after it cures because in my
> mind, this will break the nice seal I just spent the day making....
>
> You also need to get the proper 'sensor safe' RTV. Normal RTV or
> silicone fumes in the air will instantly kill your O2 sensor.
>
> My last gasket replacement was in 2001 I believe and it is still holding
> strong.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> "new2jeep-usenet@yahoo.com" wrote:
> >
> > I have an 88 wrangler 4.2L with a leaking valve cover. The trouble I
> > am having is that I can not find a replacement gasket for the valve
> > cover. Is there a replacement gasket available, and if not can I just
> > use RTV or equivalent?
> >
> > Word of note, I am new to the jeep scene and am not a real seasoned
> > mechanic but this looks easy enough to handle given a little direction.
> >
> > Thanks
iron surfaces that use cork gaskets to keep the gaskets from sqeezing out from
between the mateing surfaces. This involves creating alot of little "stiples" -
minor crators - in the iron by sharply *tapping* a very sharp center punch with
a light hammer. The raised rims of the stipples hold the gasket in place. This
shortens the 24 hour wait.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:43B2A506.7439F49A@sympatico.ca...
> Yup, we all do them a bit different.
>
> They can't be too clean. Even one fingerprint on the mating surfaces
> will cause a leak.
>
> I haven't had any issues finding new gaskets. They make the cork ones
> and a total rip off expensive rubber one that just plain don't work. I
> think my last cork one was a 'fel pro' or something like that.
>
> Once everything is super clean, I coat the engine head surface lightly
> with Black RTV and put a light coat in the valve cover ridge, then
> sandwich the cork in and tighten down to specs.
>
> I then don't even breath on the sucker for 24 hours to let the RTV cure
> like the directions say.
>
> I never re-torque anything that uses RTV after it cures because in my
> mind, this will break the nice seal I just spent the day making....
>
> You also need to get the proper 'sensor safe' RTV. Normal RTV or
> silicone fumes in the air will instantly kill your O2 sensor.
>
> My last gasket replacement was in 2001 I believe and it is still holding
> strong.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> "new2jeep-usenet@yahoo.com" wrote:
> >
> > I have an 88 wrangler 4.2L with a leaking valve cover. The trouble I
> > am having is that I can not find a replacement gasket for the valve
> > cover. Is there a replacement gasket available, and if not can I just
> > use RTV or equivalent?
> >
> > Word of note, I am new to the jeep scene and am not a real seasoned
> > mechanic but this looks easy enough to handle given a little direction.
> >
> > Thanks
12-28-2005, 04:30 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Wrangler - 4.2L with leaking valve cover
The 24 hours is to cure the RTV. It's a chemical reaction, it can only
be shortened by exposing the RTV to water (water vapor triggers the
reaction)
Vito wrote:
> I know zip about Jeep but when I was wrenching for $$$ we used to "stipple" cast
> iron surfaces that use cork gaskets to keep the gaskets from sqeezing out from
> between the mateing surfaces. This involves creating alot of little "stiples" -
> minor crators - in the iron by sharply *tapping* a very sharp center punch with
> a light hammer. The raised rims of the stipples hold the gasket in place. This
> shortens the 24 hour wait.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:43B2A506.7439F49A@sympatico.ca...
>
>>Yup, we all do them a bit different.
>>
>>They can't be too clean. Even one fingerprint on the mating surfaces
>>will cause a leak.
>>
>>I haven't had any issues finding new gaskets. They make the cork ones
>>and a total rip off expensive rubber one that just plain don't work. I
>>think my last cork one was a 'fel pro' or something like that.
>>
>>Once everything is super clean, I coat the engine head surface lightly
>>with Black RTV and put a light coat in the valve cover ridge, then
>>sandwich the cork in and tighten down to specs.
>>
>>I then don't even breath on the sucker for 24 hours to let the RTV cure
>>like the directions say.
>>
>>I never re-torque anything that uses RTV after it cures because in my
>>mind, this will break the nice seal I just spent the day making....
>>
>>You also need to get the proper 'sensor safe' RTV. Normal RTV or
>>silicone fumes in the air will instantly kill your O2 sensor.
>>
>>My last gasket replacement was in 2001 I believe and it is still holding
>>strong.
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>>"new2jeep-usenet@yahoo.com" wrote:
>>
>>>I have an 88 wrangler 4.2L with a leaking valve cover. The trouble I
>>>am having is that I can not find a replacement gasket for the valve
>>>cover. Is there a replacement gasket available, and if not can I just
>>>use RTV or equivalent?
>>>
>>>Word of note, I am new to the jeep scene and am not a real seasoned
>>>mechanic but this looks easy enough to handle given a little direction.
>>>
>>>Thanks
>
>
>
be shortened by exposing the RTV to water (water vapor triggers the
reaction)
Vito wrote:
> I know zip about Jeep but when I was wrenching for $$$ we used to "stipple" cast
> iron surfaces that use cork gaskets to keep the gaskets from sqeezing out from
> between the mateing surfaces. This involves creating alot of little "stiples" -
> minor crators - in the iron by sharply *tapping* a very sharp center punch with
> a light hammer. The raised rims of the stipples hold the gasket in place. This
> shortens the 24 hour wait.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:43B2A506.7439F49A@sympatico.ca...
>
>>Yup, we all do them a bit different.
>>
>>They can't be too clean. Even one fingerprint on the mating surfaces
>>will cause a leak.
>>
>>I haven't had any issues finding new gaskets. They make the cork ones
>>and a total rip off expensive rubber one that just plain don't work. I
>>think my last cork one was a 'fel pro' or something like that.
>>
>>Once everything is super clean, I coat the engine head surface lightly
>>with Black RTV and put a light coat in the valve cover ridge, then
>>sandwich the cork in and tighten down to specs.
>>
>>I then don't even breath on the sucker for 24 hours to let the RTV cure
>>like the directions say.
>>
>>I never re-torque anything that uses RTV after it cures because in my
>>mind, this will break the nice seal I just spent the day making....
>>
>>You also need to get the proper 'sensor safe' RTV. Normal RTV or
>>silicone fumes in the air will instantly kill your O2 sensor.
>>
>>My last gasket replacement was in 2001 I believe and it is still holding
>>strong.
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>>"new2jeep-usenet@yahoo.com" wrote:
>>
>>>I have an 88 wrangler 4.2L with a leaking valve cover. The trouble I
>>>am having is that I can not find a replacement gasket for the valve
>>>cover. Is there a replacement gasket available, and if not can I just
>>>use RTV or equivalent?
>>>
>>>Word of note, I am new to the jeep scene and am not a real seasoned
>>>mechanic but this looks easy enough to handle given a little direction.
>>>
>>>Thanks
>
>
>
12-28-2005, 04:30 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Wrangler - 4.2L with leaking valve cover
The 24 hours is to cure the RTV. It's a chemical reaction, it can only
be shortened by exposing the RTV to water (water vapor triggers the
reaction)
Vito wrote:
> I know zip about Jeep but when I was wrenching for $$$ we used to "stipple" cast
> iron surfaces that use cork gaskets to keep the gaskets from sqeezing out from
> between the mateing surfaces. This involves creating alot of little "stiples" -
> minor crators - in the iron by sharply *tapping* a very sharp center punch with
> a light hammer. The raised rims of the stipples hold the gasket in place. This
> shortens the 24 hour wait.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:43B2A506.7439F49A@sympatico.ca...
>
>>Yup, we all do them a bit different.
>>
>>They can't be too clean. Even one fingerprint on the mating surfaces
>>will cause a leak.
>>
>>I haven't had any issues finding new gaskets. They make the cork ones
>>and a total rip off expensive rubber one that just plain don't work. I
>>think my last cork one was a 'fel pro' or something like that.
>>
>>Once everything is super clean, I coat the engine head surface lightly
>>with Black RTV and put a light coat in the valve cover ridge, then
>>sandwich the cork in and tighten down to specs.
>>
>>I then don't even breath on the sucker for 24 hours to let the RTV cure
>>like the directions say.
>>
>>I never re-torque anything that uses RTV after it cures because in my
>>mind, this will break the nice seal I just spent the day making....
>>
>>You also need to get the proper 'sensor safe' RTV. Normal RTV or
>>silicone fumes in the air will instantly kill your O2 sensor.
>>
>>My last gasket replacement was in 2001 I believe and it is still holding
>>strong.
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>>"new2jeep-usenet@yahoo.com" wrote:
>>
>>>I have an 88 wrangler 4.2L with a leaking valve cover. The trouble I
>>>am having is that I can not find a replacement gasket for the valve
>>>cover. Is there a replacement gasket available, and if not can I just
>>>use RTV or equivalent?
>>>
>>>Word of note, I am new to the jeep scene and am not a real seasoned
>>>mechanic but this looks easy enough to handle given a little direction.
>>>
>>>Thanks
>
>
>
be shortened by exposing the RTV to water (water vapor triggers the
reaction)
Vito wrote:
> I know zip about Jeep but when I was wrenching for $$$ we used to "stipple" cast
> iron surfaces that use cork gaskets to keep the gaskets from sqeezing out from
> between the mateing surfaces. This involves creating alot of little "stiples" -
> minor crators - in the iron by sharply *tapping* a very sharp center punch with
> a light hammer. The raised rims of the stipples hold the gasket in place. This
> shortens the 24 hour wait.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:43B2A506.7439F49A@sympatico.ca...
>
>>Yup, we all do them a bit different.
>>
>>They can't be too clean. Even one fingerprint on the mating surfaces
>>will cause a leak.
>>
>>I haven't had any issues finding new gaskets. They make the cork ones
>>and a total rip off expensive rubber one that just plain don't work. I
>>think my last cork one was a 'fel pro' or something like that.
>>
>>Once everything is super clean, I coat the engine head surface lightly
>>with Black RTV and put a light coat in the valve cover ridge, then
>>sandwich the cork in and tighten down to specs.
>>
>>I then don't even breath on the sucker for 24 hours to let the RTV cure
>>like the directions say.
>>
>>I never re-torque anything that uses RTV after it cures because in my
>>mind, this will break the nice seal I just spent the day making....
>>
>>You also need to get the proper 'sensor safe' RTV. Normal RTV or
>>silicone fumes in the air will instantly kill your O2 sensor.
>>
>>My last gasket replacement was in 2001 I believe and it is still holding
>>strong.
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>>"new2jeep-usenet@yahoo.com" wrote:
>>
>>>I have an 88 wrangler 4.2L with a leaking valve cover. The trouble I
>>>am having is that I can not find a replacement gasket for the valve
>>>cover. Is there a replacement gasket available, and if not can I just
>>>use RTV or equivalent?
>>>
>>>Word of note, I am new to the jeep scene and am not a real seasoned
>>>mechanic but this looks easy enough to handle given a little direction.
>>>
>>>Thanks
>
>
>
12-28-2005, 04:30 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Wrangler - 4.2L with leaking valve cover
The 24 hours is to cure the RTV. It's a chemical reaction, it can only
be shortened by exposing the RTV to water (water vapor triggers the
reaction)
Vito wrote:
> I know zip about Jeep but when I was wrenching for $$$ we used to "stipple" cast
> iron surfaces that use cork gaskets to keep the gaskets from sqeezing out from
> between the mateing surfaces. This involves creating alot of little "stiples" -
> minor crators - in the iron by sharply *tapping* a very sharp center punch with
> a light hammer. The raised rims of the stipples hold the gasket in place. This
> shortens the 24 hour wait.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:43B2A506.7439F49A@sympatico.ca...
>
>>Yup, we all do them a bit different.
>>
>>They can't be too clean. Even one fingerprint on the mating surfaces
>>will cause a leak.
>>
>>I haven't had any issues finding new gaskets. They make the cork ones
>>and a total rip off expensive rubber one that just plain don't work. I
>>think my last cork one was a 'fel pro' or something like that.
>>
>>Once everything is super clean, I coat the engine head surface lightly
>>with Black RTV and put a light coat in the valve cover ridge, then
>>sandwich the cork in and tighten down to specs.
>>
>>I then don't even breath on the sucker for 24 hours to let the RTV cure
>>like the directions say.
>>
>>I never re-torque anything that uses RTV after it cures because in my
>>mind, this will break the nice seal I just spent the day making....
>>
>>You also need to get the proper 'sensor safe' RTV. Normal RTV or
>>silicone fumes in the air will instantly kill your O2 sensor.
>>
>>My last gasket replacement was in 2001 I believe and it is still holding
>>strong.
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>>"new2jeep-usenet@yahoo.com" wrote:
>>
>>>I have an 88 wrangler 4.2L with a leaking valve cover. The trouble I
>>>am having is that I can not find a replacement gasket for the valve
>>>cover. Is there a replacement gasket available, and if not can I just
>>>use RTV or equivalent?
>>>
>>>Word of note, I am new to the jeep scene and am not a real seasoned
>>>mechanic but this looks easy enough to handle given a little direction.
>>>
>>>Thanks
>
>
>
be shortened by exposing the RTV to water (water vapor triggers the
reaction)
Vito wrote:
> I know zip about Jeep but when I was wrenching for $$$ we used to "stipple" cast
> iron surfaces that use cork gaskets to keep the gaskets from sqeezing out from
> between the mateing surfaces. This involves creating alot of little "stiples" -
> minor crators - in the iron by sharply *tapping* a very sharp center punch with
> a light hammer. The raised rims of the stipples hold the gasket in place. This
> shortens the 24 hour wait.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:43B2A506.7439F49A@sympatico.ca...
>
>>Yup, we all do them a bit different.
>>
>>They can't be too clean. Even one fingerprint on the mating surfaces
>>will cause a leak.
>>
>>I haven't had any issues finding new gaskets. They make the cork ones
>>and a total rip off expensive rubber one that just plain don't work. I
>>think my last cork one was a 'fel pro' or something like that.
>>
>>Once everything is super clean, I coat the engine head surface lightly
>>with Black RTV and put a light coat in the valve cover ridge, then
>>sandwich the cork in and tighten down to specs.
>>
>>I then don't even breath on the sucker for 24 hours to let the RTV cure
>>like the directions say.
>>
>>I never re-torque anything that uses RTV after it cures because in my
>>mind, this will break the nice seal I just spent the day making....
>>
>>You also need to get the proper 'sensor safe' RTV. Normal RTV or
>>silicone fumes in the air will instantly kill your O2 sensor.
>>
>>My last gasket replacement was in 2001 I believe and it is still holding
>>strong.
>>
>>Mike
>>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
>>(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>>"new2jeep-usenet@yahoo.com" wrote:
>>
>>>I have an 88 wrangler 4.2L with a leaking valve cover. The trouble I
>>>am having is that I can not find a replacement gasket for the valve
>>>cover. Is there a replacement gasket available, and if not can I just
>>>use RTV or equivalent?
>>>
>>>Word of note, I am new to the jeep scene and am not a real seasoned
>>>mechanic but this looks easy enough to handle given a little direction.
>>>
>>>Thanks
>
>
>
12-28-2005, 04:34 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Wrangler - 4.2L with leaking valve cover
Take it to a self service car wash (late at night when the attendent
isn't there), cover the distributor and carb with plastic bags, and use
the low pressure suds to clean the big chunks of grease off. They
typically leak out the back of the valve cover, the oil drains down the
back of the engine and all over the bellhousiing, tranny, and transfer
case. I dropped the tranny support on my '87, the grease/dirt layer was
1-1/2" thick!
Will wrote:
> There are plenty of jeep valve cover gaskets out there, I just can't
> find one for the 88 jeep wrangler with the 4.2L engine. I think I will
> go with the permatex rtv route, sounds like people have had luck with
> it. I suppose I will have to whip out some degreaser before I get
> started; its lookin' pretty dirty under the hood.
>
> Thanks for the help guys... I'll have to let you know how it goes.
>
isn't there), cover the distributor and carb with plastic bags, and use
the low pressure suds to clean the big chunks of grease off. They
typically leak out the back of the valve cover, the oil drains down the
back of the engine and all over the bellhousiing, tranny, and transfer
case. I dropped the tranny support on my '87, the grease/dirt layer was
1-1/2" thick!
Will wrote:
> There are plenty of jeep valve cover gaskets out there, I just can't
> find one for the 88 jeep wrangler with the 4.2L engine. I think I will
> go with the permatex rtv route, sounds like people have had luck with
> it. I suppose I will have to whip out some degreaser before I get
> started; its lookin' pretty dirty under the hood.
>
> Thanks for the help guys... I'll have to let you know how it goes.
>