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88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating my
Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past. Clint |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
Clint wrote:
> So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. > > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. > > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will get you seriously burned. -- DougW |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
Clint wrote:
> So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. > > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. > > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will get you seriously burned. -- DougW |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
Clint wrote:
> So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. > > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. > > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will get you seriously burned. -- DougW |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
Where are you watching the coolant flow? My 88 MJ has that @#$% closed
system so I don't really see the flow at the bottle (which is under pressure with no cap on the radiator to watch - it's on the bottle). Have you drained the system lately? If so, it's possible to get an air block in the hose between the reservoir and the thermostat housing. That will over heat it in a hurry. This happens on refill it the hose is higher than the bottom of the reservoir. How about a/c? Mine started running warm in traffic this summer and it turned out to be a diode in the module that connects to the coil of the fan relay - it uses steering diodes to merge the radiator tank sensor and the a/c switch for the electric fan. Fifty cent 1n4000 diode will cure that one - or get two and replqce both just to be sure. Of course, the electric fan may only mask the problem as mine ran all summer in West Texas a year or so back with the electric fan unplugged... Sounds like either a water pump or a sticking thermostat. Either one will cause the problem you describe. On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 02:36:01 UTC "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote: > Clint wrote: > > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up > > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, > > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. > > > > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively > > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the > > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just > > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to > > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. > > > > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's > > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? > > Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator > is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? > > Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job > of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine > is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under > pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will > get you seriously burned. > -- Will Honea |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
Where are you watching the coolant flow? My 88 MJ has that @#$% closed
system so I don't really see the flow at the bottle (which is under pressure with no cap on the radiator to watch - it's on the bottle). Have you drained the system lately? If so, it's possible to get an air block in the hose between the reservoir and the thermostat housing. That will over heat it in a hurry. This happens on refill it the hose is higher than the bottom of the reservoir. How about a/c? Mine started running warm in traffic this summer and it turned out to be a diode in the module that connects to the coil of the fan relay - it uses steering diodes to merge the radiator tank sensor and the a/c switch for the electric fan. Fifty cent 1n4000 diode will cure that one - or get two and replqce both just to be sure. Of course, the electric fan may only mask the problem as mine ran all summer in West Texas a year or so back with the electric fan unplugged... Sounds like either a water pump or a sticking thermostat. Either one will cause the problem you describe. On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 02:36:01 UTC "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote: > Clint wrote: > > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up > > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, > > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. > > > > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively > > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the > > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just > > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to > > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. > > > > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's > > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? > > Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator > is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? > > Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job > of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine > is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under > pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will > get you seriously burned. > -- Will Honea |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
Where are you watching the coolant flow? My 88 MJ has that @#$% closed
system so I don't really see the flow at the bottle (which is under pressure with no cap on the radiator to watch - it's on the bottle). Have you drained the system lately? If so, it's possible to get an air block in the hose between the reservoir and the thermostat housing. That will over heat it in a hurry. This happens on refill it the hose is higher than the bottom of the reservoir. How about a/c? Mine started running warm in traffic this summer and it turned out to be a diode in the module that connects to the coil of the fan relay - it uses steering diodes to merge the radiator tank sensor and the a/c switch for the electric fan. Fifty cent 1n4000 diode will cure that one - or get two and replqce both just to be sure. Of course, the electric fan may only mask the problem as mine ran all summer in West Texas a year or so back with the electric fan unplugged... Sounds like either a water pump or a sticking thermostat. Either one will cause the problem you describe. On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 02:36:01 UTC "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote: > Clint wrote: > > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up > > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, > > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. > > > > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively > > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the > > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just > > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to > > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. > > > > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's > > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? > > Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator > is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? > > Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job > of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine > is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under > pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will > get you seriously burned. > -- Will Honea |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
I'm watching the coolant flow as it comes into the bottle (taking off the
cap). I can see it speed up when someone tweaks the throttle to 1.5K, and watch it slow down to a trickle when it gets to idle. That makes sense, because as I was trying to struggle home after overheating, the temp would stay down until I was standing still, and even then I could keep the temps kind of down if I kept the rpm's up higher than idle. These issues have started since I replaced the thermostat. I THINK the thermostat is doing it's job, as it heats up, and then usually levels off just under halfway on the temp gauge, which sounds right. I don't have A/C, so I don't know if that affects your input. :) Clint "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-vVTHkddUhv2i@anon.none.net... > Where are you watching the coolant flow? My 88 MJ has that @#$% closed > system so I don't really see the flow at the bottle (which is under > pressure with no cap on the radiator to watch - it's on the bottle). > > Have you drained the system lately? If so, it's possible to get an air > block in the hose between the reservoir and the thermostat housing. > That will over heat it in a hurry. This happens on refill it the hose > is higher than the bottom of the reservoir. > > How about a/c? Mine started running warm in traffic this summer and it > turned out to be a diode in the module that connects to the coil of > the fan relay - it uses steering diodes to merge the radiator tank > sensor and the a/c switch for the electric fan. Fifty cent 1n4000 > diode will cure that one - or get two and replqce both just to be > sure. Of course, the electric fan may only mask the problem as mine > ran all summer in West Texas a year or so back with the electric fan > unplugged... > > Sounds like either a water pump or a sticking thermostat. Either one > will cause the problem you describe. > > On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 02:36:01 UTC "DougW" > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote: > >> Clint wrote: >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up >> > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, >> > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. >> > >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the >> > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just >> > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to >> > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. >> > >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's >> > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? >> >> Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator >> is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? >> >> Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job >> of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine >> is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under >> pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will >> get you seriously burned. >> > > > -- > Will Honea |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
I'm watching the coolant flow as it comes into the bottle (taking off the
cap). I can see it speed up when someone tweaks the throttle to 1.5K, and watch it slow down to a trickle when it gets to idle. That makes sense, because as I was trying to struggle home after overheating, the temp would stay down until I was standing still, and even then I could keep the temps kind of down if I kept the rpm's up higher than idle. These issues have started since I replaced the thermostat. I THINK the thermostat is doing it's job, as it heats up, and then usually levels off just under halfway on the temp gauge, which sounds right. I don't have A/C, so I don't know if that affects your input. :) Clint "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-vVTHkddUhv2i@anon.none.net... > Where are you watching the coolant flow? My 88 MJ has that @#$% closed > system so I don't really see the flow at the bottle (which is under > pressure with no cap on the radiator to watch - it's on the bottle). > > Have you drained the system lately? If so, it's possible to get an air > block in the hose between the reservoir and the thermostat housing. > That will over heat it in a hurry. This happens on refill it the hose > is higher than the bottom of the reservoir. > > How about a/c? Mine started running warm in traffic this summer and it > turned out to be a diode in the module that connects to the coil of > the fan relay - it uses steering diodes to merge the radiator tank > sensor and the a/c switch for the electric fan. Fifty cent 1n4000 > diode will cure that one - or get two and replqce both just to be > sure. Of course, the electric fan may only mask the problem as mine > ran all summer in West Texas a year or so back with the electric fan > unplugged... > > Sounds like either a water pump or a sticking thermostat. Either one > will cause the problem you describe. > > On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 02:36:01 UTC "DougW" > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote: > >> Clint wrote: >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up >> > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, >> > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. >> > >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the >> > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just >> > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to >> > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. >> > >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's >> > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? >> >> Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator >> is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? >> >> Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job >> of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine >> is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under >> pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will >> get you seriously burned. >> > > > -- > Will Honea |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
I'm watching the coolant flow as it comes into the bottle (taking off the
cap). I can see it speed up when someone tweaks the throttle to 1.5K, and watch it slow down to a trickle when it gets to idle. That makes sense, because as I was trying to struggle home after overheating, the temp would stay down until I was standing still, and even then I could keep the temps kind of down if I kept the rpm's up higher than idle. These issues have started since I replaced the thermostat. I THINK the thermostat is doing it's job, as it heats up, and then usually levels off just under halfway on the temp gauge, which sounds right. I don't have A/C, so I don't know if that affects your input. :) Clint "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-vVTHkddUhv2i@anon.none.net... > Where are you watching the coolant flow? My 88 MJ has that @#$% closed > system so I don't really see the flow at the bottle (which is under > pressure with no cap on the radiator to watch - it's on the bottle). > > Have you drained the system lately? If so, it's possible to get an air > block in the hose between the reservoir and the thermostat housing. > That will over heat it in a hurry. This happens on refill it the hose > is higher than the bottom of the reservoir. > > How about a/c? Mine started running warm in traffic this summer and it > turned out to be a diode in the module that connects to the coil of > the fan relay - it uses steering diodes to merge the radiator tank > sensor and the a/c switch for the electric fan. Fifty cent 1n4000 > diode will cure that one - or get two and replqce both just to be > sure. Of course, the electric fan may only mask the problem as mine > ran all summer in West Texas a year or so back with the electric fan > unplugged... > > Sounds like either a water pump or a sticking thermostat. Either one > will cause the problem you describe. > > On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 02:36:01 UTC "DougW" > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote: > >> Clint wrote: >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up >> > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, >> > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. >> > >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the >> > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just >> > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to >> > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. >> > >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's >> > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? >> >> Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator >> is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? >> >> Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job >> of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine >> is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under >> pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will >> get you seriously burned. >> > > > -- > Will Honea |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
On an 88, the first suspect when overheating is a bad rad fan clutch.
When this goes bad it overheats when revving slow. To test this, heat up the engine fully and have someone shut it down while you watch the fan. A good clutch will stop the fan almost instantly when hot. If it keeps on spinning, you need a new fan clutch. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Clint wrote: > > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating my > Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like that. > Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. > > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the Jeep is > idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be trickling > into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000 rpm, it flowed > much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. > > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not > locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? > > Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past. > > Clint |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
On an 88, the first suspect when overheating is a bad rad fan clutch.
When this goes bad it overheats when revving slow. To test this, heat up the engine fully and have someone shut it down while you watch the fan. A good clutch will stop the fan almost instantly when hot. If it keeps on spinning, you need a new fan clutch. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Clint wrote: > > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating my > Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like that. > Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. > > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the Jeep is > idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be trickling > into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000 rpm, it flowed > much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. > > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not > locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? > > Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past. > > Clint |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
On an 88, the first suspect when overheating is a bad rad fan clutch.
When this goes bad it overheats when revving slow. To test this, heat up the engine fully and have someone shut it down while you watch the fan. A good clutch will stop the fan almost instantly when hot. If it keeps on spinning, you need a new fan clutch. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Clint wrote: > > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating my > Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like that. > Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. > > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the Jeep is > idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be trickling > into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000 rpm, it flowed > much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. > > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not > locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? > > Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past. > > Clint |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
No a/c, no electric fan <G>. Without the a/c, it wouldn't kick in
until it got very near the redline anyway. That flow bothers me - it says that you are cycling copious quantities thru the bottle - and mine does almost nothing except on shutdown and shortly after starting. Acts almost the same as an ordinary overflow bottle in an open system. The only time I see that kind of flow is when I have just re-filled the system and it is purging the rest of the air out as it heats up and pulling the fluid out the bottom to replace the air. Normally, on shutdown it will fill a little then get drawn down as the engine runs on rerstart. I'd guess that something is plugged - radiator, collapsed intake hose, etc. Mike's suggestion on the fan clutch is a good possibility as well - and easy to test. On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 04:41:28 UTC "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote: > I'm watching the coolant flow as it comes into the bottle (taking off the > cap). I can see it speed up when someone tweaks the throttle to 1.5K, and > watch it slow down to a trickle when it gets to idle. That makes sense, > because as I was trying to struggle home after overheating, the temp would > stay down until I was standing still, and even then I could keep the temps > kind of down if I kept the rpm's up higher than idle. > > These issues have started since I replaced the thermostat. I THINK the > thermostat is doing it's job, as it heats up, and then usually levels off > just under halfway on the temp gauge, which sounds right. > > I don't have A/C, so I don't know if that affects your input. :) > > Clint > > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-vVTHkddUhv2i@anon.none.net... > > Where are you watching the coolant flow? My 88 MJ has that @#$% closed > > system so I don't really see the flow at the bottle (which is under > > pressure with no cap on the radiator to watch - it's on the bottle). > > > > Have you drained the system lately? If so, it's possible to get an air > > block in the hose between the reservoir and the thermostat housing. > > That will over heat it in a hurry. This happens on refill it the hose > > is higher than the bottom of the reservoir. > > > > How about a/c? Mine started running warm in traffic this summer and it > > turned out to be a diode in the module that connects to the coil of > > the fan relay - it uses steering diodes to merge the radiator tank > > sensor and the a/c switch for the electric fan. Fifty cent 1n4000 > > diode will cure that one - or get two and replqce both just to be > > sure. Of course, the electric fan may only mask the problem as mine > > ran all summer in West Texas a year or so back with the electric fan > > unplugged... > > > > Sounds like either a water pump or a sticking thermostat. Either one > > will cause the problem you describe. > > > > On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 02:36:01 UTC "DougW" > > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote: > > > >> Clint wrote: > >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up > >> > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, > >> > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. > >> > > >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively > >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the > >> > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just > >> > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to > >> > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. > >> > > >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's > >> > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? > >> > >> Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator > >> is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? > >> > >> Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job > >> of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine > >> is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under > >> pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will > >> get you seriously burned. > >> > > > > > > -- > > Will Honea > > -- Will Honea |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
No a/c, no electric fan <G>. Without the a/c, it wouldn't kick in
until it got very near the redline anyway. That flow bothers me - it says that you are cycling copious quantities thru the bottle - and mine does almost nothing except on shutdown and shortly after starting. Acts almost the same as an ordinary overflow bottle in an open system. The only time I see that kind of flow is when I have just re-filled the system and it is purging the rest of the air out as it heats up and pulling the fluid out the bottom to replace the air. Normally, on shutdown it will fill a little then get drawn down as the engine runs on rerstart. I'd guess that something is plugged - radiator, collapsed intake hose, etc. Mike's suggestion on the fan clutch is a good possibility as well - and easy to test. On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 04:41:28 UTC "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote: > I'm watching the coolant flow as it comes into the bottle (taking off the > cap). I can see it speed up when someone tweaks the throttle to 1.5K, and > watch it slow down to a trickle when it gets to idle. That makes sense, > because as I was trying to struggle home after overheating, the temp would > stay down until I was standing still, and even then I could keep the temps > kind of down if I kept the rpm's up higher than idle. > > These issues have started since I replaced the thermostat. I THINK the > thermostat is doing it's job, as it heats up, and then usually levels off > just under halfway on the temp gauge, which sounds right. > > I don't have A/C, so I don't know if that affects your input. :) > > Clint > > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-vVTHkddUhv2i@anon.none.net... > > Where are you watching the coolant flow? My 88 MJ has that @#$% closed > > system so I don't really see the flow at the bottle (which is under > > pressure with no cap on the radiator to watch - it's on the bottle). > > > > Have you drained the system lately? If so, it's possible to get an air > > block in the hose between the reservoir and the thermostat housing. > > That will over heat it in a hurry. This happens on refill it the hose > > is higher than the bottom of the reservoir. > > > > How about a/c? Mine started running warm in traffic this summer and it > > turned out to be a diode in the module that connects to the coil of > > the fan relay - it uses steering diodes to merge the radiator tank > > sensor and the a/c switch for the electric fan. Fifty cent 1n4000 > > diode will cure that one - or get two and replqce both just to be > > sure. Of course, the electric fan may only mask the problem as mine > > ran all summer in West Texas a year or so back with the electric fan > > unplugged... > > > > Sounds like either a water pump or a sticking thermostat. Either one > > will cause the problem you describe. > > > > On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 02:36:01 UTC "DougW" > > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote: > > > >> Clint wrote: > >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up > >> > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, > >> > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. > >> > > >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively > >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the > >> > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just > >> > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to > >> > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. > >> > > >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's > >> > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? > >> > >> Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator > >> is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? > >> > >> Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job > >> of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine > >> is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under > >> pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will > >> get you seriously burned. > >> > > > > > > -- > > Will Honea > > -- Will Honea |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
No a/c, no electric fan <G>. Without the a/c, it wouldn't kick in
until it got very near the redline anyway. That flow bothers me - it says that you are cycling copious quantities thru the bottle - and mine does almost nothing except on shutdown and shortly after starting. Acts almost the same as an ordinary overflow bottle in an open system. The only time I see that kind of flow is when I have just re-filled the system and it is purging the rest of the air out as it heats up and pulling the fluid out the bottom to replace the air. Normally, on shutdown it will fill a little then get drawn down as the engine runs on rerstart. I'd guess that something is plugged - radiator, collapsed intake hose, etc. Mike's suggestion on the fan clutch is a good possibility as well - and easy to test. On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 04:41:28 UTC "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote: > I'm watching the coolant flow as it comes into the bottle (taking off the > cap). I can see it speed up when someone tweaks the throttle to 1.5K, and > watch it slow down to a trickle when it gets to idle. That makes sense, > because as I was trying to struggle home after overheating, the temp would > stay down until I was standing still, and even then I could keep the temps > kind of down if I kept the rpm's up higher than idle. > > These issues have started since I replaced the thermostat. I THINK the > thermostat is doing it's job, as it heats up, and then usually levels off > just under halfway on the temp gauge, which sounds right. > > I don't have A/C, so I don't know if that affects your input. :) > > Clint > > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-vVTHkddUhv2i@anon.none.net... > > Where are you watching the coolant flow? My 88 MJ has that @#$% closed > > system so I don't really see the flow at the bottle (which is under > > pressure with no cap on the radiator to watch - it's on the bottle). > > > > Have you drained the system lately? If so, it's possible to get an air > > block in the hose between the reservoir and the thermostat housing. > > That will over heat it in a hurry. This happens on refill it the hose > > is higher than the bottom of the reservoir. > > > > How about a/c? Mine started running warm in traffic this summer and it > > turned out to be a diode in the module that connects to the coil of > > the fan relay - it uses steering diodes to merge the radiator tank > > sensor and the a/c switch for the electric fan. Fifty cent 1n4000 > > diode will cure that one - or get two and replqce both just to be > > sure. Of course, the electric fan may only mask the problem as mine > > ran all summer in West Texas a year or so back with the electric fan > > unplugged... > > > > Sounds like either a water pump or a sticking thermostat. Either one > > will cause the problem you describe. > > > > On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 02:36:01 UTC "DougW" > > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote: > > > >> Clint wrote: > >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up > >> > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, > >> > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. > >> > > >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively > >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the > >> > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just > >> > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to > >> > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. > >> > > >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's > >> > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? > >> > >> Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator > >> is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? > >> > >> Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job > >> of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine > >> is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under > >> pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will > >> get you seriously burned. > >> > > > > > > -- > > Will Honea > > -- Will Honea |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
Huh. I figured it should be circulating on a regular basis.
Thanks for your input, both you and Mike. I took it into the shop for an estimate; it's a small town, and they've been gentle with me in the past. :) I'll post back in here when I find out what it is. The guy who owns the shop did 20 years at a Jeep dealer in the nearby big city, and he indicated a common failure was the radiator itself. In the meantime, I'll just lube up my wallet... Clint "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-9sKEF9vXE4kX@anon.none.net... > No a/c, no electric fan <G>. Without the a/c, it wouldn't kick in > until it got very near the redline anyway. > > That flow bothers me - it says that you are cycling copious quantities > thru the bottle - and mine does almost nothing except on shutdown and > shortly after starting. Acts almost the same as an ordinary overflow > bottle in an open system. The only time I see that kind of flow is > when I have just re-filled the system and it is purging the rest of > the air out as it heats up and pulling the fluid out the bottom to > replace the air. Normally, on shutdown it will fill a little then get > drawn down as the engine runs on rerstart. I'd guess that something > is plugged - radiator, collapsed intake hose, etc. > > Mike's suggestion on the fan clutch is a good possibility as well - > and easy to test. > > On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 04:41:28 UTC "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote: > >> I'm watching the coolant flow as it comes into the bottle (taking off the >> cap). I can see it speed up when someone tweaks the throttle to 1.5K, >> and >> watch it slow down to a trickle when it gets to idle. That makes sense, >> because as I was trying to struggle home after overheating, the temp >> would >> stay down until I was standing still, and even then I could keep the >> temps >> kind of down if I kept the rpm's up higher than idle. >> >> These issues have started since I replaced the thermostat. I THINK the >> thermostat is doing it's job, as it heats up, and then usually levels off >> just under halfway on the temp gauge, which sounds right. >> >> I don't have A/C, so I don't know if that affects your input. :) >> >> Clint >> >> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message >> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-vVTHkddUhv2i@anon.none.net... >> > Where are you watching the coolant flow? My 88 MJ has that @#$% closed >> > system so I don't really see the flow at the bottle (which is under >> > pressure with no cap on the radiator to watch - it's on the bottle). >> > >> > Have you drained the system lately? If so, it's possible to get an air >> > block in the hose between the reservoir and the thermostat housing. >> > That will over heat it in a hurry. This happens on refill it the hose >> > is higher than the bottom of the reservoir. >> > >> > How about a/c? Mine started running warm in traffic this summer and it >> > turned out to be a diode in the module that connects to the coil of >> > the fan relay - it uses steering diodes to merge the radiator tank >> > sensor and the a/c switch for the electric fan. Fifty cent 1n4000 >> > diode will cure that one - or get two and replqce both just to be >> > sure. Of course, the electric fan may only mask the problem as mine >> > ran all summer in West Texas a year or so back with the electric fan >> > unplugged... >> > >> > Sounds like either a water pump or a sticking thermostat. Either one >> > will cause the problem you describe. >> > >> > On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 02:36:01 UTC "DougW" >> > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote: >> > >> >> Clint wrote: >> >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up >> >> > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, >> >> > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. >> >> > >> >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that >> >> > automotively >> >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the >> >> > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just >> >> > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to >> >> > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or >> >> > anything. >> >> > >> >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's >> >> > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? >> >> >> >> Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator >> >> is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? >> >> >> >> Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job >> >> of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine >> >> is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under >> >> pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will >> >> get you seriously burned. >> >> >> > >> > >> > -- >> > Will Honea >> >> > > > -- > Will Honea > |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
Huh. I figured it should be circulating on a regular basis.
Thanks for your input, both you and Mike. I took it into the shop for an estimate; it's a small town, and they've been gentle with me in the past. :) I'll post back in here when I find out what it is. The guy who owns the shop did 20 years at a Jeep dealer in the nearby big city, and he indicated a common failure was the radiator itself. In the meantime, I'll just lube up my wallet... Clint "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-9sKEF9vXE4kX@anon.none.net... > No a/c, no electric fan <G>. Without the a/c, it wouldn't kick in > until it got very near the redline anyway. > > That flow bothers me - it says that you are cycling copious quantities > thru the bottle - and mine does almost nothing except on shutdown and > shortly after starting. Acts almost the same as an ordinary overflow > bottle in an open system. The only time I see that kind of flow is > when I have just re-filled the system and it is purging the rest of > the air out as it heats up and pulling the fluid out the bottom to > replace the air. Normally, on shutdown it will fill a little then get > drawn down as the engine runs on rerstart. I'd guess that something > is plugged - radiator, collapsed intake hose, etc. > > Mike's suggestion on the fan clutch is a good possibility as well - > and easy to test. > > On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 04:41:28 UTC "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote: > >> I'm watching the coolant flow as it comes into the bottle (taking off the >> cap). I can see it speed up when someone tweaks the throttle to 1.5K, >> and >> watch it slow down to a trickle when it gets to idle. That makes sense, >> because as I was trying to struggle home after overheating, the temp >> would >> stay down until I was standing still, and even then I could keep the >> temps >> kind of down if I kept the rpm's up higher than idle. >> >> These issues have started since I replaced the thermostat. I THINK the >> thermostat is doing it's job, as it heats up, and then usually levels off >> just under halfway on the temp gauge, which sounds right. >> >> I don't have A/C, so I don't know if that affects your input. :) >> >> Clint >> >> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message >> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-vVTHkddUhv2i@anon.none.net... >> > Where are you watching the coolant flow? My 88 MJ has that @#$% closed >> > system so I don't really see the flow at the bottle (which is under >> > pressure with no cap on the radiator to watch - it's on the bottle). >> > >> > Have you drained the system lately? If so, it's possible to get an air >> > block in the hose between the reservoir and the thermostat housing. >> > That will over heat it in a hurry. This happens on refill it the hose >> > is higher than the bottom of the reservoir. >> > >> > How about a/c? Mine started running warm in traffic this summer and it >> > turned out to be a diode in the module that connects to the coil of >> > the fan relay - it uses steering diodes to merge the radiator tank >> > sensor and the a/c switch for the electric fan. Fifty cent 1n4000 >> > diode will cure that one - or get two and replqce both just to be >> > sure. Of course, the electric fan may only mask the problem as mine >> > ran all summer in West Texas a year or so back with the electric fan >> > unplugged... >> > >> > Sounds like either a water pump or a sticking thermostat. Either one >> > will cause the problem you describe. >> > >> > On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 02:36:01 UTC "DougW" >> > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote: >> > >> >> Clint wrote: >> >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up >> >> > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, >> >> > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. >> >> > >> >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that >> >> > automotively >> >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the >> >> > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just >> >> > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to >> >> > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or >> >> > anything. >> >> > >> >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's >> >> > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? >> >> >> >> Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator >> >> is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? >> >> >> >> Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job >> >> of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine >> >> is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under >> >> pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will >> >> get you seriously burned. >> >> >> > >> > >> > -- >> > Will Honea >> >> > > > -- > Will Honea > |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
Huh. I figured it should be circulating on a regular basis.
Thanks for your input, both you and Mike. I took it into the shop for an estimate; it's a small town, and they've been gentle with me in the past. :) I'll post back in here when I find out what it is. The guy who owns the shop did 20 years at a Jeep dealer in the nearby big city, and he indicated a common failure was the radiator itself. In the meantime, I'll just lube up my wallet... Clint "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-9sKEF9vXE4kX@anon.none.net... > No a/c, no electric fan <G>. Without the a/c, it wouldn't kick in > until it got very near the redline anyway. > > That flow bothers me - it says that you are cycling copious quantities > thru the bottle - and mine does almost nothing except on shutdown and > shortly after starting. Acts almost the same as an ordinary overflow > bottle in an open system. The only time I see that kind of flow is > when I have just re-filled the system and it is purging the rest of > the air out as it heats up and pulling the fluid out the bottom to > replace the air. Normally, on shutdown it will fill a little then get > drawn down as the engine runs on rerstart. I'd guess that something > is plugged - radiator, collapsed intake hose, etc. > > Mike's suggestion on the fan clutch is a good possibility as well - > and easy to test. > > On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 04:41:28 UTC "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote: > >> I'm watching the coolant flow as it comes into the bottle (taking off the >> cap). I can see it speed up when someone tweaks the throttle to 1.5K, >> and >> watch it slow down to a trickle when it gets to idle. That makes sense, >> because as I was trying to struggle home after overheating, the temp >> would >> stay down until I was standing still, and even then I could keep the >> temps >> kind of down if I kept the rpm's up higher than idle. >> >> These issues have started since I replaced the thermostat. I THINK the >> thermostat is doing it's job, as it heats up, and then usually levels off >> just under halfway on the temp gauge, which sounds right. >> >> I don't have A/C, so I don't know if that affects your input. :) >> >> Clint >> >> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message >> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-vVTHkddUhv2i@anon.none.net... >> > Where are you watching the coolant flow? My 88 MJ has that @#$% closed >> > system so I don't really see the flow at the bottle (which is under >> > pressure with no cap on the radiator to watch - it's on the bottle). >> > >> > Have you drained the system lately? If so, it's possible to get an air >> > block in the hose between the reservoir and the thermostat housing. >> > That will over heat it in a hurry. This happens on refill it the hose >> > is higher than the bottom of the reservoir. >> > >> > How about a/c? Mine started running warm in traffic this summer and it >> > turned out to be a diode in the module that connects to the coil of >> > the fan relay - it uses steering diodes to merge the radiator tank >> > sensor and the a/c switch for the electric fan. Fifty cent 1n4000 >> > diode will cure that one - or get two and replqce both just to be >> > sure. Of course, the electric fan may only mask the problem as mine >> > ran all summer in West Texas a year or so back with the electric fan >> > unplugged... >> > >> > Sounds like either a water pump or a sticking thermostat. Either one >> > will cause the problem you describe. >> > >> > On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 02:36:01 UTC "DougW" >> > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote: >> > >> >> Clint wrote: >> >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up >> >> > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, >> >> > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. >> >> > >> >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that >> >> > automotively >> >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the >> >> > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just >> >> > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to >> >> > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or >> >> > anything. >> >> > >> >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's >> >> > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? >> >> >> >> Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator >> >> is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? >> >> >> >> Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job >> >> of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine >> >> is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under >> >> pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will >> >> get you seriously burned. >> >> >> > >> > >> > -- >> > Will Honea >> >> > > > -- > Will Honea > |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
If the fluid is flowing unhindered in and out of the bottle (if you can
watch circulation) makes it sounds that the radiator cap is bad. A lot of places now recommend new thermostats and caps at each coolant change (especially when DexCool is used) because the failure rate is increasing tremendously. "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message news:Rv7Qg.572414$IK3.231321@pd7tw1no... > Huh. I figured it should be circulating on a regular basis. > > Thanks for your input, both you and Mike. I took it into the shop for an > estimate; it's a small town, and they've been gentle with me in the past. > :) I'll post back in here when I find out what it is. The guy who owns > the shop did 20 years at a Jeep dealer in the nearby big city, and he > indicated a common failure was the radiator itself. > > In the meantime, I'll just lube up my wallet... > > Clint > > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-9sKEF9vXE4kX@anon.none.net... >> No a/c, no electric fan <G>. Without the a/c, it wouldn't kick in >> until it got very near the redline anyway. >> >> That flow bothers me - it says that you are cycling copious quantities >> thru the bottle - and mine does almost nothing except on shutdown and >> shortly after starting. Acts almost the same as an ordinary overflow >> bottle in an open system. The only time I see that kind of flow is >> when I have just re-filled the system and it is purging the rest of >> the air out as it heats up and pulling the fluid out the bottom to >> replace the air. Normally, on shutdown it will fill a little then get >> drawn down as the engine runs on rerstart. I'd guess that something >> is plugged - radiator, collapsed intake hose, etc. >> >> Mike's suggestion on the fan clutch is a good possibility as well - >> and easy to test. >> >> On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 04:41:28 UTC "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote: >> >>> I'm watching the coolant flow as it comes into the bottle (taking off >>> the >>> cap). I can see it speed up when someone tweaks the throttle to 1.5K, >>> and >>> watch it slow down to a trickle when it gets to idle. That makes sense, >>> because as I was trying to struggle home after overheating, the temp >>> would >>> stay down until I was standing still, and even then I could keep the >>> temps >>> kind of down if I kept the rpm's up higher than idle. >>> >>> These issues have started since I replaced the thermostat. I THINK the >>> thermostat is doing it's job, as it heats up, and then usually levels >>> off >>> just under halfway on the temp gauge, which sounds right. >>> >>> I don't have A/C, so I don't know if that affects your input. :) >>> >>> Clint >>> >>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message >>> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-vVTHkddUhv2i@anon.none.net... >>> > Where are you watching the coolant flow? My 88 MJ has that @#$% closed >>> > system so I don't really see the flow at the bottle (which is under >>> > pressure with no cap on the radiator to watch - it's on the bottle). >>> > >>> > Have you drained the system lately? If so, it's possible to get an air >>> > block in the hose between the reservoir and the thermostat housing. >>> > That will over heat it in a hurry. This happens on refill it the hose >>> > is higher than the bottom of the reservoir. >>> > >>> > How about a/c? Mine started running warm in traffic this summer and it >>> > turned out to be a diode in the module that connects to the coil of >>> > the fan relay - it uses steering diodes to merge the radiator tank >>> > sensor and the a/c switch for the electric fan. Fifty cent 1n4000 >>> > diode will cure that one - or get two and replqce both just to be >>> > sure. Of course, the electric fan may only mask the problem as mine >>> > ran all summer in West Texas a year or so back with the electric fan >>> > unplugged... >>> > >>> > Sounds like either a water pump or a sticking thermostat. Either one >>> > will cause the problem you describe. >>> > >>> > On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 02:36:01 UTC "DougW" >>> > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote: >>> > >>> >> Clint wrote: >>> >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up >>> >> > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, >>> >> > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, >>> >> > etc. >>> >> > >>> >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that >>> >> > automotively >>> >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the >>> >> > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to >>> >> > just >>> >> > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to >>> >> > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or >>> >> > anything. >>> >> > >>> >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's >>> >> > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing >>> >> > that? >>> >> >>> >> Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator >>> >> is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? >>> >> >>> >> Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job >>> >> of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine >>> >> is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under >>> >> pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will >>> >> get you seriously burned. >>> >> >>> > >>> > >>> > -- >>> > Will Honea >>> >>> >> >> >> -- >> Will Honea >> > > |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
If the fluid is flowing unhindered in and out of the bottle (if you can
watch circulation) makes it sounds that the radiator cap is bad. A lot of places now recommend new thermostats and caps at each coolant change (especially when DexCool is used) because the failure rate is increasing tremendously. "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message news:Rv7Qg.572414$IK3.231321@pd7tw1no... > Huh. I figured it should be circulating on a regular basis. > > Thanks for your input, both you and Mike. I took it into the shop for an > estimate; it's a small town, and they've been gentle with me in the past. > :) I'll post back in here when I find out what it is. The guy who owns > the shop did 20 years at a Jeep dealer in the nearby big city, and he > indicated a common failure was the radiator itself. > > In the meantime, I'll just lube up my wallet... > > Clint > > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-9sKEF9vXE4kX@anon.none.net... >> No a/c, no electric fan <G>. Without the a/c, it wouldn't kick in >> until it got very near the redline anyway. >> >> That flow bothers me - it says that you are cycling copious quantities >> thru the bottle - and mine does almost nothing except on shutdown and >> shortly after starting. Acts almost the same as an ordinary overflow >> bottle in an open system. The only time I see that kind of flow is >> when I have just re-filled the system and it is purging the rest of >> the air out as it heats up and pulling the fluid out the bottom to >> replace the air. Normally, on shutdown it will fill a little then get >> drawn down as the engine runs on rerstart. I'd guess that something >> is plugged - radiator, collapsed intake hose, etc. >> >> Mike's suggestion on the fan clutch is a good possibility as well - >> and easy to test. >> >> On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 04:41:28 UTC "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote: >> >>> I'm watching the coolant flow as it comes into the bottle (taking off >>> the >>> cap). I can see it speed up when someone tweaks the throttle to 1.5K, >>> and >>> watch it slow down to a trickle when it gets to idle. That makes sense, >>> because as I was trying to struggle home after overheating, the temp >>> would >>> stay down until I was standing still, and even then I could keep the >>> temps >>> kind of down if I kept the rpm's up higher than idle. >>> >>> These issues have started since I replaced the thermostat. I THINK the >>> thermostat is doing it's job, as it heats up, and then usually levels >>> off >>> just under halfway on the temp gauge, which sounds right. >>> >>> I don't have A/C, so I don't know if that affects your input. :) >>> >>> Clint >>> >>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message >>> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-vVTHkddUhv2i@anon.none.net... >>> > Where are you watching the coolant flow? My 88 MJ has that @#$% closed >>> > system so I don't really see the flow at the bottle (which is under >>> > pressure with no cap on the radiator to watch - it's on the bottle). >>> > >>> > Have you drained the system lately? If so, it's possible to get an air >>> > block in the hose between the reservoir and the thermostat housing. >>> > That will over heat it in a hurry. This happens on refill it the hose >>> > is higher than the bottom of the reservoir. >>> > >>> > How about a/c? Mine started running warm in traffic this summer and it >>> > turned out to be a diode in the module that connects to the coil of >>> > the fan relay - it uses steering diodes to merge the radiator tank >>> > sensor and the a/c switch for the electric fan. Fifty cent 1n4000 >>> > diode will cure that one - or get two and replqce both just to be >>> > sure. Of course, the electric fan may only mask the problem as mine >>> > ran all summer in West Texas a year or so back with the electric fan >>> > unplugged... >>> > >>> > Sounds like either a water pump or a sticking thermostat. Either one >>> > will cause the problem you describe. >>> > >>> > On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 02:36:01 UTC "DougW" >>> > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote: >>> > >>> >> Clint wrote: >>> >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up >>> >> > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, >>> >> > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, >>> >> > etc. >>> >> > >>> >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that >>> >> > automotively >>> >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the >>> >> > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to >>> >> > just >>> >> > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to >>> >> > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or >>> >> > anything. >>> >> > >>> >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's >>> >> > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing >>> >> > that? >>> >> >>> >> Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator >>> >> is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? >>> >> >>> >> Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job >>> >> of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine >>> >> is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under >>> >> pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will >>> >> get you seriously burned. >>> >> >>> > >>> > >>> > -- >>> > Will Honea >>> >>> >> >> >> -- >> Will Honea >> > > |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
If the fluid is flowing unhindered in and out of the bottle (if you can
watch circulation) makes it sounds that the radiator cap is bad. A lot of places now recommend new thermostats and caps at each coolant change (especially when DexCool is used) because the failure rate is increasing tremendously. "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message news:Rv7Qg.572414$IK3.231321@pd7tw1no... > Huh. I figured it should be circulating on a regular basis. > > Thanks for your input, both you and Mike. I took it into the shop for an > estimate; it's a small town, and they've been gentle with me in the past. > :) I'll post back in here when I find out what it is. The guy who owns > the shop did 20 years at a Jeep dealer in the nearby big city, and he > indicated a common failure was the radiator itself. > > In the meantime, I'll just lube up my wallet... > > Clint > > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-9sKEF9vXE4kX@anon.none.net... >> No a/c, no electric fan <G>. Without the a/c, it wouldn't kick in >> until it got very near the redline anyway. >> >> That flow bothers me - it says that you are cycling copious quantities >> thru the bottle - and mine does almost nothing except on shutdown and >> shortly after starting. Acts almost the same as an ordinary overflow >> bottle in an open system. The only time I see that kind of flow is >> when I have just re-filled the system and it is purging the rest of >> the air out as it heats up and pulling the fluid out the bottom to >> replace the air. Normally, on shutdown it will fill a little then get >> drawn down as the engine runs on rerstart. I'd guess that something >> is plugged - radiator, collapsed intake hose, etc. >> >> Mike's suggestion on the fan clutch is a good possibility as well - >> and easy to test. >> >> On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 04:41:28 UTC "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote: >> >>> I'm watching the coolant flow as it comes into the bottle (taking off >>> the >>> cap). I can see it speed up when someone tweaks the throttle to 1.5K, >>> and >>> watch it slow down to a trickle when it gets to idle. That makes sense, >>> because as I was trying to struggle home after overheating, the temp >>> would >>> stay down until I was standing still, and even then I could keep the >>> temps >>> kind of down if I kept the rpm's up higher than idle. >>> >>> These issues have started since I replaced the thermostat. I THINK the >>> thermostat is doing it's job, as it heats up, and then usually levels >>> off >>> just under halfway on the temp gauge, which sounds right. >>> >>> I don't have A/C, so I don't know if that affects your input. :) >>> >>> Clint >>> >>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message >>> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-vVTHkddUhv2i@anon.none.net... >>> > Where are you watching the coolant flow? My 88 MJ has that @#$% closed >>> > system so I don't really see the flow at the bottle (which is under >>> > pressure with no cap on the radiator to watch - it's on the bottle). >>> > >>> > Have you drained the system lately? If so, it's possible to get an air >>> > block in the hose between the reservoir and the thermostat housing. >>> > That will over heat it in a hurry. This happens on refill it the hose >>> > is higher than the bottom of the reservoir. >>> > >>> > How about a/c? Mine started running warm in traffic this summer and it >>> > turned out to be a diode in the module that connects to the coil of >>> > the fan relay - it uses steering diodes to merge the radiator tank >>> > sensor and the a/c switch for the electric fan. Fifty cent 1n4000 >>> > diode will cure that one - or get two and replqce both just to be >>> > sure. Of course, the electric fan may only mask the problem as mine >>> > ran all summer in West Texas a year or so back with the electric fan >>> > unplugged... >>> > >>> > Sounds like either a water pump or a sticking thermostat. Either one >>> > will cause the problem you describe. >>> > >>> > On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 02:36:01 UTC "DougW" >>> > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote: >>> > >>> >> Clint wrote: >>> >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up >>> >> > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, >>> >> > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, >>> >> > etc. >>> >> > >>> >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that >>> >> > automotively >>> >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the >>> >> > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to >>> >> > just >>> >> > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to >>> >> > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or >>> >> > anything. >>> >> > >>> >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's >>> >> > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing >>> >> > that? >>> >> >>> >> Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator >>> >> is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? >>> >> >>> >> Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job >>> >> of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine >>> >> is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under >>> >> pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will >>> >> get you seriously burned. >>> >> >>> > >>> > >>> > -- >>> > Will Honea >>> >>> >> >> >> -- >> Will Honea >> > > |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
Mine has no flow to speak of.
The old closed systems were prone to have the tank crack and/or the cap not fit well which will cause coolant to flow into the bottle just before it escapes onto the ground. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) billy ray wrote: > > If the fluid is flowing unhindered in and out of the bottle (if you can > watch circulation) makes it sounds that the radiator cap is bad. > > A lot of places now recommend new thermostats and caps at each coolant > change (especially when DexCool is used) because the failure rate is > increasing tremendously. > > "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message > news:Rv7Qg.572414$IK3.231321@pd7tw1no... > > Huh. I figured it should be circulating on a regular basis. > > > > Thanks for your input, both you and Mike. I took it into the shop for an > > estimate; it's a small town, and they've been gentle with me in the past. > > :) I'll post back in here when I find out what it is. The guy who owns > > the shop did 20 years at a Jeep dealer in the nearby big city, and he > > indicated a common failure was the radiator itself. > > > > In the meantime, I'll just lube up my wallet... > > > > Clint > > > > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-9sKEF9vXE4kX@anon.none.net... > >> No a/c, no electric fan <G>. Without the a/c, it wouldn't kick in > >> until it got very near the redline anyway. > >> > >> That flow bothers me - it says that you are cycling copious quantities > >> thru the bottle - and mine does almost nothing except on shutdown and > >> shortly after starting. Acts almost the same as an ordinary overflow > >> bottle in an open system. The only time I see that kind of flow is > >> when I have just re-filled the system and it is purging the rest of > >> the air out as it heats up and pulling the fluid out the bottom to > >> replace the air. Normally, on shutdown it will fill a little then get > >> drawn down as the engine runs on rerstart. I'd guess that something > >> is plugged - radiator, collapsed intake hose, etc. > >> > >> Mike's suggestion on the fan clutch is a good possibility as well - > >> and easy to test. > >> > >> On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 04:41:28 UTC "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote: > >> > >>> I'm watching the coolant flow as it comes into the bottle (taking off > >>> the > >>> cap). I can see it speed up when someone tweaks the throttle to 1.5K, > >>> and > >>> watch it slow down to a trickle when it gets to idle. That makes sense, > >>> because as I was trying to struggle home after overheating, the temp > >>> would > >>> stay down until I was standing still, and even then I could keep the > >>> temps > >>> kind of down if I kept the rpm's up higher than idle. > >>> > >>> These issues have started since I replaced the thermostat. I THINK the > >>> thermostat is doing it's job, as it heats up, and then usually levels > >>> off > >>> just under halfway on the temp gauge, which sounds right. > >>> > >>> I don't have A/C, so I don't know if that affects your input. :) > >>> > >>> Clint > >>> > >>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > >>> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-vVTHkddUhv2i@anon.none.net... > >>> > Where are you watching the coolant flow? My 88 MJ has that @#$% closed > >>> > system so I don't really see the flow at the bottle (which is under > >>> > pressure with no cap on the radiator to watch - it's on the bottle). > >>> > > >>> > Have you drained the system lately? If so, it's possible to get an air > >>> > block in the hose between the reservoir and the thermostat housing. > >>> > That will over heat it in a hurry. This happens on refill it the hose > >>> > is higher than the bottom of the reservoir. > >>> > > >>> > How about a/c? Mine started running warm in traffic this summer and it > >>> > turned out to be a diode in the module that connects to the coil of > >>> > the fan relay - it uses steering diodes to merge the radiator tank > >>> > sensor and the a/c switch for the electric fan. Fifty cent 1n4000 > >>> > diode will cure that one - or get two and replqce both just to be > >>> > sure. Of course, the electric fan may only mask the problem as mine > >>> > ran all summer in West Texas a year or so back with the electric fan > >>> > unplugged... > >>> > > >>> > Sounds like either a water pump or a sticking thermostat. Either one > >>> > will cause the problem you describe. > >>> > > >>> > On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 02:36:01 UTC "DougW" > >>> > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote: > >>> > > >>> >> Clint wrote: > >>> >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up > >>> >> > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, > >>> >> > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, > >>> >> > etc. > >>> >> > > >>> >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that > >>> >> > automotively > >>> >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the > >>> >> > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to > >>> >> > just > >>> >> > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to > >>> >> > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or > >>> >> > anything. > >>> >> > > >>> >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's > >>> >> > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing > >>> >> > that? > >>> >> > >>> >> Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator > >>> >> is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? > >>> >> > >>> >> Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job > >>> >> of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine > >>> >> is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under > >>> >> pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will > >>> >> get you seriously burned. > >>> >> > >>> > > >>> > > >>> > -- > >>> > Will Honea > >>> > >>> > >> > >> > >> -- > >> Will Honea > >> > > > > |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
Mine has no flow to speak of.
The old closed systems were prone to have the tank crack and/or the cap not fit well which will cause coolant to flow into the bottle just before it escapes onto the ground. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) billy ray wrote: > > If the fluid is flowing unhindered in and out of the bottle (if you can > watch circulation) makes it sounds that the radiator cap is bad. > > A lot of places now recommend new thermostats and caps at each coolant > change (especially when DexCool is used) because the failure rate is > increasing tremendously. > > "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message > news:Rv7Qg.572414$IK3.231321@pd7tw1no... > > Huh. I figured it should be circulating on a regular basis. > > > > Thanks for your input, both you and Mike. I took it into the shop for an > > estimate; it's a small town, and they've been gentle with me in the past. > > :) I'll post back in here when I find out what it is. The guy who owns > > the shop did 20 years at a Jeep dealer in the nearby big city, and he > > indicated a common failure was the radiator itself. > > > > In the meantime, I'll just lube up my wallet... > > > > Clint > > > > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-9sKEF9vXE4kX@anon.none.net... > >> No a/c, no electric fan <G>. Without the a/c, it wouldn't kick in > >> until it got very near the redline anyway. > >> > >> That flow bothers me - it says that you are cycling copious quantities > >> thru the bottle - and mine does almost nothing except on shutdown and > >> shortly after starting. Acts almost the same as an ordinary overflow > >> bottle in an open system. The only time I see that kind of flow is > >> when I have just re-filled the system and it is purging the rest of > >> the air out as it heats up and pulling the fluid out the bottom to > >> replace the air. Normally, on shutdown it will fill a little then get > >> drawn down as the engine runs on rerstart. I'd guess that something > >> is plugged - radiator, collapsed intake hose, etc. > >> > >> Mike's suggestion on the fan clutch is a good possibility as well - > >> and easy to test. > >> > >> On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 04:41:28 UTC "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote: > >> > >>> I'm watching the coolant flow as it comes into the bottle (taking off > >>> the > >>> cap). I can see it speed up when someone tweaks the throttle to 1.5K, > >>> and > >>> watch it slow down to a trickle when it gets to idle. That makes sense, > >>> because as I was trying to struggle home after overheating, the temp > >>> would > >>> stay down until I was standing still, and even then I could keep the > >>> temps > >>> kind of down if I kept the rpm's up higher than idle. > >>> > >>> These issues have started since I replaced the thermostat. I THINK the > >>> thermostat is doing it's job, as it heats up, and then usually levels > >>> off > >>> just under halfway on the temp gauge, which sounds right. > >>> > >>> I don't have A/C, so I don't know if that affects your input. :) > >>> > >>> Clint > >>> > >>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > >>> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-vVTHkddUhv2i@anon.none.net... > >>> > Where are you watching the coolant flow? My 88 MJ has that @#$% closed > >>> > system so I don't really see the flow at the bottle (which is under > >>> > pressure with no cap on the radiator to watch - it's on the bottle). > >>> > > >>> > Have you drained the system lately? If so, it's possible to get an air > >>> > block in the hose between the reservoir and the thermostat housing. > >>> > That will over heat it in a hurry. This happens on refill it the hose > >>> > is higher than the bottom of the reservoir. > >>> > > >>> > How about a/c? Mine started running warm in traffic this summer and it > >>> > turned out to be a diode in the module that connects to the coil of > >>> > the fan relay - it uses steering diodes to merge the radiator tank > >>> > sensor and the a/c switch for the electric fan. Fifty cent 1n4000 > >>> > diode will cure that one - or get two and replqce both just to be > >>> > sure. Of course, the electric fan may only mask the problem as mine > >>> > ran all summer in West Texas a year or so back with the electric fan > >>> > unplugged... > >>> > > >>> > Sounds like either a water pump or a sticking thermostat. Either one > >>> > will cause the problem you describe. > >>> > > >>> > On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 02:36:01 UTC "DougW" > >>> > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote: > >>> > > >>> >> Clint wrote: > >>> >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up > >>> >> > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, > >>> >> > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, > >>> >> > etc. > >>> >> > > >>> >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that > >>> >> > automotively > >>> >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the > >>> >> > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to > >>> >> > just > >>> >> > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to > >>> >> > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or > >>> >> > anything. > >>> >> > > >>> >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's > >>> >> > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing > >>> >> > that? > >>> >> > >>> >> Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator > >>> >> is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? > >>> >> > >>> >> Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job > >>> >> of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine > >>> >> is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under > >>> >> pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will > >>> >> get you seriously burned. > >>> >> > >>> > > >>> > > >>> > -- > >>> > Will Honea > >>> > >>> > >> > >> > >> -- > >> Will Honea > >> > > > > |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
Mine has no flow to speak of.
The old closed systems were prone to have the tank crack and/or the cap not fit well which will cause coolant to flow into the bottle just before it escapes onto the ground. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) billy ray wrote: > > If the fluid is flowing unhindered in and out of the bottle (if you can > watch circulation) makes it sounds that the radiator cap is bad. > > A lot of places now recommend new thermostats and caps at each coolant > change (especially when DexCool is used) because the failure rate is > increasing tremendously. > > "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message > news:Rv7Qg.572414$IK3.231321@pd7tw1no... > > Huh. I figured it should be circulating on a regular basis. > > > > Thanks for your input, both you and Mike. I took it into the shop for an > > estimate; it's a small town, and they've been gentle with me in the past. > > :) I'll post back in here when I find out what it is. The guy who owns > > the shop did 20 years at a Jeep dealer in the nearby big city, and he > > indicated a common failure was the radiator itself. > > > > In the meantime, I'll just lube up my wallet... > > > > Clint > > > > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-9sKEF9vXE4kX@anon.none.net... > >> No a/c, no electric fan <G>. Without the a/c, it wouldn't kick in > >> until it got very near the redline anyway. > >> > >> That flow bothers me - it says that you are cycling copious quantities > >> thru the bottle - and mine does almost nothing except on shutdown and > >> shortly after starting. Acts almost the same as an ordinary overflow > >> bottle in an open system. The only time I see that kind of flow is > >> when I have just re-filled the system and it is purging the rest of > >> the air out as it heats up and pulling the fluid out the bottom to > >> replace the air. Normally, on shutdown it will fill a little then get > >> drawn down as the engine runs on rerstart. I'd guess that something > >> is plugged - radiator, collapsed intake hose, etc. > >> > >> Mike's suggestion on the fan clutch is a good possibility as well - > >> and easy to test. > >> > >> On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 04:41:28 UTC "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote: > >> > >>> I'm watching the coolant flow as it comes into the bottle (taking off > >>> the > >>> cap). I can see it speed up when someone tweaks the throttle to 1.5K, > >>> and > >>> watch it slow down to a trickle when it gets to idle. That makes sense, > >>> because as I was trying to struggle home after overheating, the temp > >>> would > >>> stay down until I was standing still, and even then I could keep the > >>> temps > >>> kind of down if I kept the rpm's up higher than idle. > >>> > >>> These issues have started since I replaced the thermostat. I THINK the > >>> thermostat is doing it's job, as it heats up, and then usually levels > >>> off > >>> just under halfway on the temp gauge, which sounds right. > >>> > >>> I don't have A/C, so I don't know if that affects your input. :) > >>> > >>> Clint > >>> > >>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > >>> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-vVTHkddUhv2i@anon.none.net... > >>> > Where are you watching the coolant flow? My 88 MJ has that @#$% closed > >>> > system so I don't really see the flow at the bottle (which is under > >>> > pressure with no cap on the radiator to watch - it's on the bottle). > >>> > > >>> > Have you drained the system lately? If so, it's possible to get an air > >>> > block in the hose between the reservoir and the thermostat housing. > >>> > That will over heat it in a hurry. This happens on refill it the hose > >>> > is higher than the bottom of the reservoir. > >>> > > >>> > How about a/c? Mine started running warm in traffic this summer and it > >>> > turned out to be a diode in the module that connects to the coil of > >>> > the fan relay - it uses steering diodes to merge the radiator tank > >>> > sensor and the a/c switch for the electric fan. Fifty cent 1n4000 > >>> > diode will cure that one - or get two and replqce both just to be > >>> > sure. Of course, the electric fan may only mask the problem as mine > >>> > ran all summer in West Texas a year or so back with the electric fan > >>> > unplugged... > >>> > > >>> > Sounds like either a water pump or a sticking thermostat. Either one > >>> > will cause the problem you describe. > >>> > > >>> > On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 02:36:01 UTC "DougW" > >>> > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote: > >>> > > >>> >> Clint wrote: > >>> >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up > >>> >> > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, > >>> >> > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, > >>> >> > etc. > >>> >> > > >>> >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that > >>> >> > automotively > >>> >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the > >>> >> > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to > >>> >> > just > >>> >> > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to > >>> >> > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or > >>> >> > anything. > >>> >> > > >>> >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's > >>> >> > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing > >>> >> > that? > >>> >> > >>> >> Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator > >>> >> is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? > >>> >> > >>> >> Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job > >>> >> of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine > >>> >> is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under > >>> >> pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will > >>> >> get you seriously burned. > >>> >> > >>> > > >>> > > >>> > -- > >>> > Will Honea > >>> > >>> > >> > >> > >> -- > >> Will Honea > >> > > > > |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
Good point, Mike. You have to remember that the cap on the tank IS
the radiator cap and that the tank is under the same pressure as the rest of the system. I keep waiting for my radiator to go so that I can replace the whole system with a "normal" system using an overflow bottle and a real radiator cap. Ever notice that the part you would like to replace seems to last forever? On Wed, 20 Sep 2006 13:55:19 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote: > Mine has no flow to speak of. > > The old closed systems were prone to have the tank crack and/or the cap > not fit well which will cause coolant to flow into the bottle just > before it escapes onto the ground. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > billy ray wrote: > > > > If the fluid is flowing unhindered in and out of the bottle (if you can > > watch circulation) makes it sounds that the radiator cap is bad. > > > > A lot of places now recommend new thermostats and caps at each coolant > > change (especially when DexCool is used) because the failure rate is > > increasing tremendously. > > > > "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message > > news:Rv7Qg.572414$IK3.231321@pd7tw1no... > > > Huh. I figured it should be circulating on a regular basis. > > > > > > Thanks for your input, both you and Mike. I took it into the shop for an > > > estimate; it's a small town, and they've been gentle with me in the past. > > > :) I'll post back in here when I find out what it is. The guy who owns > > > the shop did 20 years at a Jeep dealer in the nearby big city, and he > > > indicated a common failure was the radiator itself. > > > > > > In the meantime, I'll just lube up my wallet... > > > > > > Clint > > > > > > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-9sKEF9vXE4kX@anon.none.net... > > >> No a/c, no electric fan <G>. Without the a/c, it wouldn't kick in > > >> until it got very near the redline anyway. > > >> > > >> That flow bothers me - it says that you are cycling copious quantities > > >> thru the bottle - and mine does almost nothing except on shutdown and > > >> shortly after starting. Acts almost the same as an ordinary overflow > > >> bottle in an open system. The only time I see that kind of flow is > > >> when I have just re-filled the system and it is purging the rest of > > >> the air out as it heats up and pulling the fluid out the bottom to > > >> replace the air. Normally, on shutdown it will fill a little then get > > >> drawn down as the engine runs on rerstart. I'd guess that something > > >> is plugged - radiator, collapsed intake hose, etc. > > >> > > >> Mike's suggestion on the fan clutch is a good possibility as well - > > >> and easy to test. > > >> > > >> On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 04:41:28 UTC "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote: > > >> > > >>> I'm watching the coolant flow as it comes into the bottle (taking off > > >>> the > > >>> cap). I can see it speed up when someone tweaks the throttle to 1.5K, > > >>> and > > >>> watch it slow down to a trickle when it gets to idle. That makes sense, > > >>> because as I was trying to struggle home after overheating, the temp > > >>> would > > >>> stay down until I was standing still, and even then I could keep the > > >>> temps > > >>> kind of down if I kept the rpm's up higher than idle. > > >>> > > >>> These issues have started since I replaced the thermostat. I THINK the > > >>> thermostat is doing it's job, as it heats up, and then usually levels > > >>> off > > >>> just under halfway on the temp gauge, which sounds right. > > >>> > > >>> I don't have A/C, so I don't know if that affects your input. :) > > >>> > > >>> Clint > > >>> > > >>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > >>> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-vVTHkddUhv2i@anon.none.net... > > >>> > Where are you watching the coolant flow? My 88 MJ has that @#$% closed > > >>> > system so I don't really see the flow at the bottle (which is under > > >>> > pressure with no cap on the radiator to watch - it's on the bottle). > > >>> > > > >>> > Have you drained the system lately? If so, it's possible to get an air > > >>> > block in the hose between the reservoir and the thermostat housing. > > >>> > That will over heat it in a hurry. This happens on refill it the hose > > >>> > is higher than the bottom of the reservoir. > > >>> > > > >>> > How about a/c? Mine started running warm in traffic this summer and it > > >>> > turned out to be a diode in the module that connects to the coil of > > >>> > the fan relay - it uses steering diodes to merge the radiator tank > > >>> > sensor and the a/c switch for the electric fan. Fifty cent 1n4000 > > >>> > diode will cure that one - or get two and replqce both just to be > > >>> > sure. Of course, the electric fan may only mask the problem as mine > > >>> > ran all summer in West Texas a year or so back with the electric fan > > >>> > unplugged... > > >>> > > > >>> > Sounds like either a water pump or a sticking thermostat. Either one > > >>> > will cause the problem you describe. > > >>> > > > >>> > On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 02:36:01 UTC "DougW" > > >>> > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote: > > >>> > > > >>> >> Clint wrote: > > >>> >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up > > >>> >> > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, > > >>> >> > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, > > >>> >> > etc. > > >>> >> > > > >>> >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that > > >>> >> > automotively > > >>> >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the > > >>> >> > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to > > >>> >> > just > > >>> >> > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to > > >>> >> > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or > > >>> >> > anything. > > >>> >> > > > >>> >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's > > >>> >> > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing > > >>> >> > that? > > >>> >> > > >>> >> Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator > > >>> >> is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? > > >>> >> > > >>> >> Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job > > >>> >> of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine > > >>> >> is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under > > >>> >> pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will > > >>> >> get you seriously burned. > > >>> >> > > >>> > > > >>> > > > >>> > -- > > >>> > Will Honea > > >>> > > >>> > > >> > > >> > > >> -- > > >> Will Honea > > >> > > > > > > -- Will Honea |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
Good point, Mike. You have to remember that the cap on the tank IS
the radiator cap and that the tank is under the same pressure as the rest of the system. I keep waiting for my radiator to go so that I can replace the whole system with a "normal" system using an overflow bottle and a real radiator cap. Ever notice that the part you would like to replace seems to last forever? On Wed, 20 Sep 2006 13:55:19 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote: > Mine has no flow to speak of. > > The old closed systems were prone to have the tank crack and/or the cap > not fit well which will cause coolant to flow into the bottle just > before it escapes onto the ground. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > billy ray wrote: > > > > If the fluid is flowing unhindered in and out of the bottle (if you can > > watch circulation) makes it sounds that the radiator cap is bad. > > > > A lot of places now recommend new thermostats and caps at each coolant > > change (especially when DexCool is used) because the failure rate is > > increasing tremendously. > > > > "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message > > news:Rv7Qg.572414$IK3.231321@pd7tw1no... > > > Huh. I figured it should be circulating on a regular basis. > > > > > > Thanks for your input, both you and Mike. I took it into the shop for an > > > estimate; it's a small town, and they've been gentle with me in the past. > > > :) I'll post back in here when I find out what it is. The guy who owns > > > the shop did 20 years at a Jeep dealer in the nearby big city, and he > > > indicated a common failure was the radiator itself. > > > > > > In the meantime, I'll just lube up my wallet... > > > > > > Clint > > > > > > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-9sKEF9vXE4kX@anon.none.net... > > >> No a/c, no electric fan <G>. Without the a/c, it wouldn't kick in > > >> until it got very near the redline anyway. > > >> > > >> That flow bothers me - it says that you are cycling copious quantities > > >> thru the bottle - and mine does almost nothing except on shutdown and > > >> shortly after starting. Acts almost the same as an ordinary overflow > > >> bottle in an open system. The only time I see that kind of flow is > > >> when I have just re-filled the system and it is purging the rest of > > >> the air out as it heats up and pulling the fluid out the bottom to > > >> replace the air. Normally, on shutdown it will fill a little then get > > >> drawn down as the engine runs on rerstart. I'd guess that something > > >> is plugged - radiator, collapsed intake hose, etc. > > >> > > >> Mike's suggestion on the fan clutch is a good possibility as well - > > >> and easy to test. > > >> > > >> On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 04:41:28 UTC "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote: > > >> > > >>> I'm watching the coolant flow as it comes into the bottle (taking off > > >>> the > > >>> cap). I can see it speed up when someone tweaks the throttle to 1.5K, > > >>> and > > >>> watch it slow down to a trickle when it gets to idle. That makes sense, > > >>> because as I was trying to struggle home after overheating, the temp > > >>> would > > >>> stay down until I was standing still, and even then I could keep the > > >>> temps > > >>> kind of down if I kept the rpm's up higher than idle. > > >>> > > >>> These issues have started since I replaced the thermostat. I THINK the > > >>> thermostat is doing it's job, as it heats up, and then usually levels > > >>> off > > >>> just under halfway on the temp gauge, which sounds right. > > >>> > > >>> I don't have A/C, so I don't know if that affects your input. :) > > >>> > > >>> Clint > > >>> > > >>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > >>> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-vVTHkddUhv2i@anon.none.net... > > >>> > Where are you watching the coolant flow? My 88 MJ has that @#$% closed > > >>> > system so I don't really see the flow at the bottle (which is under > > >>> > pressure with no cap on the radiator to watch - it's on the bottle). > > >>> > > > >>> > Have you drained the system lately? If so, it's possible to get an air > > >>> > block in the hose between the reservoir and the thermostat housing. > > >>> > That will over heat it in a hurry. This happens on refill it the hose > > >>> > is higher than the bottom of the reservoir. > > >>> > > > >>> > How about a/c? Mine started running warm in traffic this summer and it > > >>> > turned out to be a diode in the module that connects to the coil of > > >>> > the fan relay - it uses steering diodes to merge the radiator tank > > >>> > sensor and the a/c switch for the electric fan. Fifty cent 1n4000 > > >>> > diode will cure that one - or get two and replqce both just to be > > >>> > sure. Of course, the electric fan may only mask the problem as mine > > >>> > ran all summer in West Texas a year or so back with the electric fan > > >>> > unplugged... > > >>> > > > >>> > Sounds like either a water pump or a sticking thermostat. Either one > > >>> > will cause the problem you describe. > > >>> > > > >>> > On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 02:36:01 UTC "DougW" > > >>> > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote: > > >>> > > > >>> >> Clint wrote: > > >>> >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up > > >>> >> > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, > > >>> >> > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, > > >>> >> > etc. > > >>> >> > > > >>> >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that > > >>> >> > automotively > > >>> >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the > > >>> >> > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to > > >>> >> > just > > >>> >> > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to > > >>> >> > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or > > >>> >> > anything. > > >>> >> > > > >>> >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's > > >>> >> > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing > > >>> >> > that? > > >>> >> > > >>> >> Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator > > >>> >> is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? > > >>> >> > > >>> >> Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job > > >>> >> of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine > > >>> >> is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under > > >>> >> pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will > > >>> >> get you seriously burned. > > >>> >> > > >>> > > > >>> > > > >>> > -- > > >>> > Will Honea > > >>> > > >>> > > >> > > >> > > >> -- > > >> Will Honea > > >> > > > > > > -- Will Honea |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
Good point, Mike. You have to remember that the cap on the tank IS
the radiator cap and that the tank is under the same pressure as the rest of the system. I keep waiting for my radiator to go so that I can replace the whole system with a "normal" system using an overflow bottle and a real radiator cap. Ever notice that the part you would like to replace seems to last forever? On Wed, 20 Sep 2006 13:55:19 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote: > Mine has no flow to speak of. > > The old closed systems were prone to have the tank crack and/or the cap > not fit well which will cause coolant to flow into the bottle just > before it escapes onto the ground. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > billy ray wrote: > > > > If the fluid is flowing unhindered in and out of the bottle (if you can > > watch circulation) makes it sounds that the radiator cap is bad. > > > > A lot of places now recommend new thermostats and caps at each coolant > > change (especially when DexCool is used) because the failure rate is > > increasing tremendously. > > > > "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message > > news:Rv7Qg.572414$IK3.231321@pd7tw1no... > > > Huh. I figured it should be circulating on a regular basis. > > > > > > Thanks for your input, both you and Mike. I took it into the shop for an > > > estimate; it's a small town, and they've been gentle with me in the past. > > > :) I'll post back in here when I find out what it is. The guy who owns > > > the shop did 20 years at a Jeep dealer in the nearby big city, and he > > > indicated a common failure was the radiator itself. > > > > > > In the meantime, I'll just lube up my wallet... > > > > > > Clint > > > > > > "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > > news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-9sKEF9vXE4kX@anon.none.net... > > >> No a/c, no electric fan <G>. Without the a/c, it wouldn't kick in > > >> until it got very near the redline anyway. > > >> > > >> That flow bothers me - it says that you are cycling copious quantities > > >> thru the bottle - and mine does almost nothing except on shutdown and > > >> shortly after starting. Acts almost the same as an ordinary overflow > > >> bottle in an open system. The only time I see that kind of flow is > > >> when I have just re-filled the system and it is purging the rest of > > >> the air out as it heats up and pulling the fluid out the bottom to > > >> replace the air. Normally, on shutdown it will fill a little then get > > >> drawn down as the engine runs on rerstart. I'd guess that something > > >> is plugged - radiator, collapsed intake hose, etc. > > >> > > >> Mike's suggestion on the fan clutch is a good possibility as well - > > >> and easy to test. > > >> > > >> On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 04:41:28 UTC "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote: > > >> > > >>> I'm watching the coolant flow as it comes into the bottle (taking off > > >>> the > > >>> cap). I can see it speed up when someone tweaks the throttle to 1.5K, > > >>> and > > >>> watch it slow down to a trickle when it gets to idle. That makes sense, > > >>> because as I was trying to struggle home after overheating, the temp > > >>> would > > >>> stay down until I was standing still, and even then I could keep the > > >>> temps > > >>> kind of down if I kept the rpm's up higher than idle. > > >>> > > >>> These issues have started since I replaced the thermostat. I THINK the > > >>> thermostat is doing it's job, as it heats up, and then usually levels > > >>> off > > >>> just under halfway on the temp gauge, which sounds right. > > >>> > > >>> I don't have A/C, so I don't know if that affects your input. :) > > >>> > > >>> Clint > > >>> > > >>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message > > >>> news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-vVTHkddUhv2i@anon.none.net... > > >>> > Where are you watching the coolant flow? My 88 MJ has that @#$% closed > > >>> > system so I don't really see the flow at the bottle (which is under > > >>> > pressure with no cap on the radiator to watch - it's on the bottle). > > >>> > > > >>> > Have you drained the system lately? If so, it's possible to get an air > > >>> > block in the hose between the reservoir and the thermostat housing. > > >>> > That will over heat it in a hurry. This happens on refill it the hose > > >>> > is higher than the bottom of the reservoir. > > >>> > > > >>> > How about a/c? Mine started running warm in traffic this summer and it > > >>> > turned out to be a diode in the module that connects to the coil of > > >>> > the fan relay - it uses steering diodes to merge the radiator tank > > >>> > sensor and the a/c switch for the electric fan. Fifty cent 1n4000 > > >>> > diode will cure that one - or get two and replqce both just to be > > >>> > sure. Of course, the electric fan may only mask the problem as mine > > >>> > ran all summer in West Texas a year or so back with the electric fan > > >>> > unplugged... > > >>> > > > >>> > Sounds like either a water pump or a sticking thermostat. Either one > > >>> > will cause the problem you describe. > > >>> > > > >>> > On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 02:36:01 UTC "DougW" > > >>> > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote: > > >>> > > > >>> >> Clint wrote: > > >>> >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up > > >>> >> > overheating my Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, > > >>> >> > but nothing like that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, > > >>> >> > etc. > > >>> >> > > > >>> >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that > > >>> >> > automotively > > >>> >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the > > >>> >> > Jeep is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to > > >>> >> > just > > >>> >> > be trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to > > >>> >> > 2000 rpm, it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or > > >>> >> > anything. > > >>> >> > > > >>> >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's > > >>> >> > not locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing > > >>> >> > that? > > >>> >> > > >>> >> Very possible the vanes have gone. It's also possible your radiator > > >>> >> is clogged. Is there a lot of buildup in it? > > >>> >> > > >>> >> Keep in mind coolant flow when cold will be slow. That's the job > > >>> >> of the thermostat valve. Full flow will only happen when the engine > > >>> >> is at operating temperature. Needless to say the system is under > > >>> >> pressure at that point and removing the radiator cap to look will > > >>> >> get you seriously burned. > > >>> >> > > >>> > > > >>> > > > >>> > -- > > >>> > Will Honea > > >>> > > >>> > > >> > > >> > > >> -- > > >> Will Honea > > >> > > > > > > -- Will Honea |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
The diagnosis from the garage is a new water pump and new bottle/cap. They
are recommending replacing the thermostat as well, at the same time. The thermostat and bottle/cap are no-brainers in terms of how-to (I think; I've done the thermostat before), but does anyone have a cheap source in Canada for the bottle? They're quoting $100 for the bottle, and $15 for the cap, which seems ridiculous, although the local NAPA says they can't get them for any price, so rarity is probably inflating the price. Something I can get in a timely fashion to Edmonton Alberta, in particular. The water pump I'm not so sure about, but my neighbor has offered to assist in the operation. I've got the full-service manual as well, but that might not be the final answer either. Ah, well, the library has a Chilton's and Hayne's guide, I think. :) Clint "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no... > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating my > Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like > that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. > > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the Jeep > is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be > trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000 rpm, > it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. > > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not > locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? > > Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past. > > Clint > |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
The diagnosis from the garage is a new water pump and new bottle/cap. They
are recommending replacing the thermostat as well, at the same time. The thermostat and bottle/cap are no-brainers in terms of how-to (I think; I've done the thermostat before), but does anyone have a cheap source in Canada for the bottle? They're quoting $100 for the bottle, and $15 for the cap, which seems ridiculous, although the local NAPA says they can't get them for any price, so rarity is probably inflating the price. Something I can get in a timely fashion to Edmonton Alberta, in particular. The water pump I'm not so sure about, but my neighbor has offered to assist in the operation. I've got the full-service manual as well, but that might not be the final answer either. Ah, well, the library has a Chilton's and Hayne's guide, I think. :) Clint "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no... > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating my > Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like > that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. > > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the Jeep > is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be > trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000 rpm, > it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. > > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not > locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? > > Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past. > > Clint > |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
The diagnosis from the garage is a new water pump and new bottle/cap. They
are recommending replacing the thermostat as well, at the same time. The thermostat and bottle/cap are no-brainers in terms of how-to (I think; I've done the thermostat before), but does anyone have a cheap source in Canada for the bottle? They're quoting $100 for the bottle, and $15 for the cap, which seems ridiculous, although the local NAPA says they can't get them for any price, so rarity is probably inflating the price. Something I can get in a timely fashion to Edmonton Alberta, in particular. The water pump I'm not so sure about, but my neighbor has offered to assist in the operation. I've got the full-service manual as well, but that might not be the final answer either. Ah, well, the library has a Chilton's and Hayne's guide, I think. :) Clint "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no... > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating my > Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like > that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. > > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the Jeep > is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be > trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000 rpm, > it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. > > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not > locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? > > Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past. > > Clint > |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
I believe you either need a bottle 'or' a cap and not a pump unless it
is leaking out the bottom of the snout under the pulley. If the bottle is cracked and you have to buy one, then you may as well get a new cap. More likely the cap washer is just old..... If this only happened once in hot traffic, then I would almost suspect the old cap just wasn't tight enough. You can do a visual inspection yourself. If your bottle has a long time seep or crack, there will be a green stain by the crack. If the cap washer is bad, there will be green stains around the rim. If it was a one time thing because the cap was loose, it should be clean. If it actually overheated because you have a bad pump or t-stat, then the top of the cap will have stains. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Clint wrote: > > The diagnosis from the garage is a new water pump and new bottle/cap. They > are recommending replacing the thermostat as well, at the same time. The > thermostat and bottle/cap are no-brainers in terms of how-to (I think; I've > done the thermostat before), but does anyone have a cheap source in Canada > for the bottle? They're quoting $100 for the bottle, and $15 for the cap, > which seems ridiculous, although the local NAPA says they can't get them for > any price, so rarity is probably inflating the price. Something I can get > in a timely fashion to Edmonton Alberta, in particular. > > The water pump I'm not so sure about, but my neighbor has offered to assist > in the operation. I've got the full-service manual as well, but that might > not be the final answer either. Ah, well, the library has a Chilton's and > Hayne's guide, I think. :) > > Clint > > "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message > news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no... > > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating my > > Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like > > that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. > > > > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively > > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the Jeep > > is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be > > trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000 rpm, > > it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. > > > > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not > > locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? > > > > Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past. > > > > Clint > > |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
I believe you either need a bottle 'or' a cap and not a pump unless it
is leaking out the bottom of the snout under the pulley. If the bottle is cracked and you have to buy one, then you may as well get a new cap. More likely the cap washer is just old..... If this only happened once in hot traffic, then I would almost suspect the old cap just wasn't tight enough. You can do a visual inspection yourself. If your bottle has a long time seep or crack, there will be a green stain by the crack. If the cap washer is bad, there will be green stains around the rim. If it was a one time thing because the cap was loose, it should be clean. If it actually overheated because you have a bad pump or t-stat, then the top of the cap will have stains. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Clint wrote: > > The diagnosis from the garage is a new water pump and new bottle/cap. They > are recommending replacing the thermostat as well, at the same time. The > thermostat and bottle/cap are no-brainers in terms of how-to (I think; I've > done the thermostat before), but does anyone have a cheap source in Canada > for the bottle? They're quoting $100 for the bottle, and $15 for the cap, > which seems ridiculous, although the local NAPA says they can't get them for > any price, so rarity is probably inflating the price. Something I can get > in a timely fashion to Edmonton Alberta, in particular. > > The water pump I'm not so sure about, but my neighbor has offered to assist > in the operation. I've got the full-service manual as well, but that might > not be the final answer either. Ah, well, the library has a Chilton's and > Hayne's guide, I think. :) > > Clint > > "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message > news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no... > > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating my > > Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like > > that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. > > > > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively > > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the Jeep > > is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be > > trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000 rpm, > > it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. > > > > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not > > locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? > > > > Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past. > > > > Clint > > |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
I believe you either need a bottle 'or' a cap and not a pump unless it
is leaking out the bottom of the snout under the pulley. If the bottle is cracked and you have to buy one, then you may as well get a new cap. More likely the cap washer is just old..... If this only happened once in hot traffic, then I would almost suspect the old cap just wasn't tight enough. You can do a visual inspection yourself. If your bottle has a long time seep or crack, there will be a green stain by the crack. If the cap washer is bad, there will be green stains around the rim. If it was a one time thing because the cap was loose, it should be clean. If it actually overheated because you have a bad pump or t-stat, then the top of the cap will have stains. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) Clint wrote: > > The diagnosis from the garage is a new water pump and new bottle/cap. They > are recommending replacing the thermostat as well, at the same time. The > thermostat and bottle/cap are no-brainers in terms of how-to (I think; I've > done the thermostat before), but does anyone have a cheap source in Canada > for the bottle? They're quoting $100 for the bottle, and $15 for the cap, > which seems ridiculous, although the local NAPA says they can't get them for > any price, so rarity is probably inflating the price. Something I can get > in a timely fashion to Edmonton Alberta, in particular. > > The water pump I'm not so sure about, but my neighbor has offered to assist > in the operation. I've got the full-service manual as well, but that might > not be the final answer either. Ah, well, the library has a Chilton's and > Hayne's guide, I think. :) > > Clint > > "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message > news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no... > > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating my > > Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like > > that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. > > > > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively > > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the Jeep > > is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be > > trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000 rpm, > > it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. > > > > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not > > locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? > > > > Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past. > > > > Clint > > |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
No, it's happened before. The bottle is cracked, as well, apparently. The
bottle was my first choice in replacing; I just figured something else was wrong too, as I doubted the low flow would have been caused by a slightly leaking bottle. And I suspected the water pump was leaking as well (drips under vehicle overnight), so I'm not entirely surprised by that. Any suggestions for Jeep parts up here in Canada? I phoned a couple of local places and got a couple prices on the water pump, and they weren't too ugly. At least I'm a little more informed about what I'm getting into, anyway. And I found at least one US source on eBay for the tank (around $30), but it looks like they'll only ship UPS, which sucks up here to Canada. The one parts place I talked to suggested a wrecker, but with the issues I've heard with the tanks, it's not something that I really want to replace 3 or 4 times trying to get one that's not cracked or anything. I did find this link on the Net, WRT replacing the pump, if anyone else is interested: http://jeepin.com/features/waterpump/index.asp Looks pretty straightforward on there, with the possible exception of the 4th bolt holding things in place. Of course, I'm expecting my mileage to differ. I'll have to weigh the labour charges the garage gives vs. the money I can make doing some contract work... Clint "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:4511FB04.689F9B8E@sympatico.ca... >I believe you either need a bottle 'or' a cap and not a pump unless it > is leaking out the bottom of the snout under the pulley. > > If the bottle is cracked and you have to buy one, then you may as well > get a new cap. More likely the cap washer is just old..... > > If this only happened once in hot traffic, then I would almost suspect > the old cap just wasn't tight enough. > > You can do a visual inspection yourself. If your bottle has a long time > seep or crack, there will be a green stain by the crack. If the cap > washer is bad, there will be green stains around the rim. If it was a > one time thing because the cap was loose, it should be clean. If it > actually overheated because you have a bad pump or t-stat, then the top > of the cap will have stains. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > Clint wrote: >> >> The diagnosis from the garage is a new water pump and new bottle/cap. >> They >> are recommending replacing the thermostat as well, at the same time. The >> thermostat and bottle/cap are no-brainers in terms of how-to (I think; >> I've >> done the thermostat before), but does anyone have a cheap source in >> Canada >> for the bottle? They're quoting $100 for the bottle, and $15 for the >> cap, >> which seems ridiculous, although the local NAPA says they can't get them >> for >> any price, so rarity is probably inflating the price. Something I can >> get >> in a timely fashion to Edmonton Alberta, in particular. >> >> The water pump I'm not so sure about, but my neighbor has offered to >> assist >> in the operation. I've got the full-service manual as well, but that >> might >> not be the final answer either. Ah, well, the library has a Chilton's >> and >> Hayne's guide, I think. :) >> >> Clint >> >> "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message >> news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no... >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating >> > my >> > Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like >> > that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. >> > >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the >> > Jeep >> > is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be >> > trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000 >> > rpm, >> > it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. >> > >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not >> > locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? >> > >> > Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past. >> > >> > Clint >> > |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
No, it's happened before. The bottle is cracked, as well, apparently. The
bottle was my first choice in replacing; I just figured something else was wrong too, as I doubted the low flow would have been caused by a slightly leaking bottle. And I suspected the water pump was leaking as well (drips under vehicle overnight), so I'm not entirely surprised by that. Any suggestions for Jeep parts up here in Canada? I phoned a couple of local places and got a couple prices on the water pump, and they weren't too ugly. At least I'm a little more informed about what I'm getting into, anyway. And I found at least one US source on eBay for the tank (around $30), but it looks like they'll only ship UPS, which sucks up here to Canada. The one parts place I talked to suggested a wrecker, but with the issues I've heard with the tanks, it's not something that I really want to replace 3 or 4 times trying to get one that's not cracked or anything. I did find this link on the Net, WRT replacing the pump, if anyone else is interested: http://jeepin.com/features/waterpump/index.asp Looks pretty straightforward on there, with the possible exception of the 4th bolt holding things in place. Of course, I'm expecting my mileage to differ. I'll have to weigh the labour charges the garage gives vs. the money I can make doing some contract work... Clint "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:4511FB04.689F9B8E@sympatico.ca... >I believe you either need a bottle 'or' a cap and not a pump unless it > is leaking out the bottom of the snout under the pulley. > > If the bottle is cracked and you have to buy one, then you may as well > get a new cap. More likely the cap washer is just old..... > > If this only happened once in hot traffic, then I would almost suspect > the old cap just wasn't tight enough. > > You can do a visual inspection yourself. If your bottle has a long time > seep or crack, there will be a green stain by the crack. If the cap > washer is bad, there will be green stains around the rim. If it was a > one time thing because the cap was loose, it should be clean. If it > actually overheated because you have a bad pump or t-stat, then the top > of the cap will have stains. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > Clint wrote: >> >> The diagnosis from the garage is a new water pump and new bottle/cap. >> They >> are recommending replacing the thermostat as well, at the same time. The >> thermostat and bottle/cap are no-brainers in terms of how-to (I think; >> I've >> done the thermostat before), but does anyone have a cheap source in >> Canada >> for the bottle? They're quoting $100 for the bottle, and $15 for the >> cap, >> which seems ridiculous, although the local NAPA says they can't get them >> for >> any price, so rarity is probably inflating the price. Something I can >> get >> in a timely fashion to Edmonton Alberta, in particular. >> >> The water pump I'm not so sure about, but my neighbor has offered to >> assist >> in the operation. I've got the full-service manual as well, but that >> might >> not be the final answer either. Ah, well, the library has a Chilton's >> and >> Hayne's guide, I think. :) >> >> Clint >> >> "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message >> news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no... >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating >> > my >> > Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like >> > that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. >> > >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the >> > Jeep >> > is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be >> > trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000 >> > rpm, >> > it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. >> > >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not >> > locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? >> > >> > Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past. >> > >> > Clint >> > |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
No, it's happened before. The bottle is cracked, as well, apparently. The
bottle was my first choice in replacing; I just figured something else was wrong too, as I doubted the low flow would have been caused by a slightly leaking bottle. And I suspected the water pump was leaking as well (drips under vehicle overnight), so I'm not entirely surprised by that. Any suggestions for Jeep parts up here in Canada? I phoned a couple of local places and got a couple prices on the water pump, and they weren't too ugly. At least I'm a little more informed about what I'm getting into, anyway. And I found at least one US source on eBay for the tank (around $30), but it looks like they'll only ship UPS, which sucks up here to Canada. The one parts place I talked to suggested a wrecker, but with the issues I've heard with the tanks, it's not something that I really want to replace 3 or 4 times trying to get one that's not cracked or anything. I did find this link on the Net, WRT replacing the pump, if anyone else is interested: http://jeepin.com/features/waterpump/index.asp Looks pretty straightforward on there, with the possible exception of the 4th bolt holding things in place. Of course, I'm expecting my mileage to differ. I'll have to weigh the labour charges the garage gives vs. the money I can make doing some contract work... Clint "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:4511FB04.689F9B8E@sympatico.ca... >I believe you either need a bottle 'or' a cap and not a pump unless it > is leaking out the bottom of the snout under the pulley. > > If the bottle is cracked and you have to buy one, then you may as well > get a new cap. More likely the cap washer is just old..... > > If this only happened once in hot traffic, then I would almost suspect > the old cap just wasn't tight enough. > > You can do a visual inspection yourself. If your bottle has a long time > seep or crack, there will be a green stain by the crack. If the cap > washer is bad, there will be green stains around the rim. If it was a > one time thing because the cap was loose, it should be clean. If it > actually overheated because you have a bad pump or t-stat, then the top > of the cap will have stains. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > Clint wrote: >> >> The diagnosis from the garage is a new water pump and new bottle/cap. >> They >> are recommending replacing the thermostat as well, at the same time. The >> thermostat and bottle/cap are no-brainers in terms of how-to (I think; >> I've >> done the thermostat before), but does anyone have a cheap source in >> Canada >> for the bottle? They're quoting $100 for the bottle, and $15 for the >> cap, >> which seems ridiculous, although the local NAPA says they can't get them >> for >> any price, so rarity is probably inflating the price. Something I can >> get >> in a timely fashion to Edmonton Alberta, in particular. >> >> The water pump I'm not so sure about, but my neighbor has offered to >> assist >> in the operation. I've got the full-service manual as well, but that >> might >> not be the final answer either. Ah, well, the library has a Chilton's >> and >> Hayne's guide, I think. :) >> >> Clint >> >> "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message >> news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no... >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating >> > my >> > Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like >> > that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. >> > >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the >> > Jeep >> > is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be >> > trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000 >> > rpm, >> > it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. >> > >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not >> > locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? >> > >> > Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past. >> > >> > Clint >> > |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
You may be able to glue the bottle, depending on the size and location of
the crack. Earle "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message news:mlnQg.5556$R63.3907@pd7urf1no... > No, it's happened before. The bottle is cracked, as well, apparently. The > bottle was my first choice in replacing; I just figured something else was > wrong too, as I doubted the low flow would have been caused by a slightly > leaking bottle. > > And I suspected the water pump was leaking as well (drips under vehicle > overnight), so I'm not entirely surprised by that. > > Any suggestions for Jeep parts up here in Canada? I phoned a couple of > local places and got a couple prices on the water pump, and they weren't too > ugly. At least I'm a little more informed about what I'm getting into, > anyway. And I found at least one US source on eBay for the tank (around > $30), but it looks like they'll only ship UPS, which sucks up here to > Canada. The one parts place I talked to suggested a wrecker, but with the > issues I've heard with the tanks, it's not something that I really want to > replace 3 or 4 times trying to get one that's not cracked or anything. > > I did find this link on the Net, WRT replacing the pump, if anyone else is > interested: > http://jeepin.com/features/waterpump/index.asp > Looks pretty straightforward on there, with the possible exception of the > 4th bolt holding things in place. Of course, I'm expecting my mileage to > differ. I'll have to weigh the labour charges the garage gives vs. the > money I can make doing some contract work... > > Clint > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:4511FB04.689F9B8E@sympatico.ca... > >I believe you either need a bottle 'or' a cap and not a pump unless it > > is leaking out the bottom of the snout under the pulley. > > > > If the bottle is cracked and you have to buy one, then you may as well > > get a new cap. More likely the cap washer is just old..... > > > > If this only happened once in hot traffic, then I would almost suspect > > the old cap just wasn't tight enough. > > > > You can do a visual inspection yourself. If your bottle has a long time > > seep or crack, there will be a green stain by the crack. If the cap > > washer is bad, there will be green stains around the rim. If it was a > > one time thing because the cap was loose, it should be clean. If it > > actually overheated because you have a bad pump or t-stat, then the top > > of the cap will have stains. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > > Clint wrote: > >> > >> The diagnosis from the garage is a new water pump and new bottle/cap. > >> They > >> are recommending replacing the thermostat as well, at the same time. The > >> thermostat and bottle/cap are no-brainers in terms of how-to (I think; > >> I've > >> done the thermostat before), but does anyone have a cheap source in > >> Canada > >> for the bottle? They're quoting $100 for the bottle, and $15 for the > >> cap, > >> which seems ridiculous, although the local NAPA says they can't get them > >> for > >> any price, so rarity is probably inflating the price. Something I can > >> get > >> in a timely fashion to Edmonton Alberta, in particular. > >> > >> The water pump I'm not so sure about, but my neighbor has offered to > >> assist > >> in the operation. I've got the full-service manual as well, but that > >> might > >> not be the final answer either. Ah, well, the library has a Chilton's > >> and > >> Hayne's guide, I think. :) > >> > >> Clint > >> > >> "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message > >> news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no... > >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating > >> > my > >> > Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like > >> > that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. > >> > > >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively > >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the > >> > Jeep > >> > is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be > >> > trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000 > >> > rpm, > >> > it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. > >> > > >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not > >> > locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? > >> > > >> > Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past. > >> > > >> > Clint > >> > > > |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
You may be able to glue the bottle, depending on the size and location of
the crack. Earle "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message news:mlnQg.5556$R63.3907@pd7urf1no... > No, it's happened before. The bottle is cracked, as well, apparently. The > bottle was my first choice in replacing; I just figured something else was > wrong too, as I doubted the low flow would have been caused by a slightly > leaking bottle. > > And I suspected the water pump was leaking as well (drips under vehicle > overnight), so I'm not entirely surprised by that. > > Any suggestions for Jeep parts up here in Canada? I phoned a couple of > local places and got a couple prices on the water pump, and they weren't too > ugly. At least I'm a little more informed about what I'm getting into, > anyway. And I found at least one US source on eBay for the tank (around > $30), but it looks like they'll only ship UPS, which sucks up here to > Canada. The one parts place I talked to suggested a wrecker, but with the > issues I've heard with the tanks, it's not something that I really want to > replace 3 or 4 times trying to get one that's not cracked or anything. > > I did find this link on the Net, WRT replacing the pump, if anyone else is > interested: > http://jeepin.com/features/waterpump/index.asp > Looks pretty straightforward on there, with the possible exception of the > 4th bolt holding things in place. Of course, I'm expecting my mileage to > differ. I'll have to weigh the labour charges the garage gives vs. the > money I can make doing some contract work... > > Clint > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:4511FB04.689F9B8E@sympatico.ca... > >I believe you either need a bottle 'or' a cap and not a pump unless it > > is leaking out the bottom of the snout under the pulley. > > > > If the bottle is cracked and you have to buy one, then you may as well > > get a new cap. More likely the cap washer is just old..... > > > > If this only happened once in hot traffic, then I would almost suspect > > the old cap just wasn't tight enough. > > > > You can do a visual inspection yourself. If your bottle has a long time > > seep or crack, there will be a green stain by the crack. If the cap > > washer is bad, there will be green stains around the rim. If it was a > > one time thing because the cap was loose, it should be clean. If it > > actually overheated because you have a bad pump or t-stat, then the top > > of the cap will have stains. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > > Clint wrote: > >> > >> The diagnosis from the garage is a new water pump and new bottle/cap. > >> They > >> are recommending replacing the thermostat as well, at the same time. The > >> thermostat and bottle/cap are no-brainers in terms of how-to (I think; > >> I've > >> done the thermostat before), but does anyone have a cheap source in > >> Canada > >> for the bottle? They're quoting $100 for the bottle, and $15 for the > >> cap, > >> which seems ridiculous, although the local NAPA says they can't get them > >> for > >> any price, so rarity is probably inflating the price. Something I can > >> get > >> in a timely fashion to Edmonton Alberta, in particular. > >> > >> The water pump I'm not so sure about, but my neighbor has offered to > >> assist > >> in the operation. I've got the full-service manual as well, but that > >> might > >> not be the final answer either. Ah, well, the library has a Chilton's > >> and > >> Hayne's guide, I think. :) > >> > >> Clint > >> > >> "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message > >> news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no... > >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating > >> > my > >> > Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like > >> > that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. > >> > > >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively > >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the > >> > Jeep > >> > is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be > >> > trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000 > >> > rpm, > >> > it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. > >> > > >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not > >> > locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? > >> > > >> > Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past. > >> > > >> > Clint > >> > > > |
Re: 88 Jeep Comanche cooling issues
You may be able to glue the bottle, depending on the size and location of
the crack. Earle "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message news:mlnQg.5556$R63.3907@pd7urf1no... > No, it's happened before. The bottle is cracked, as well, apparently. The > bottle was my first choice in replacing; I just figured something else was > wrong too, as I doubted the low flow would have been caused by a slightly > leaking bottle. > > And I suspected the water pump was leaking as well (drips under vehicle > overnight), so I'm not entirely surprised by that. > > Any suggestions for Jeep parts up here in Canada? I phoned a couple of > local places and got a couple prices on the water pump, and they weren't too > ugly. At least I'm a little more informed about what I'm getting into, > anyway. And I found at least one US source on eBay for the tank (around > $30), but it looks like they'll only ship UPS, which sucks up here to > Canada. The one parts place I talked to suggested a wrecker, but with the > issues I've heard with the tanks, it's not something that I really want to > replace 3 or 4 times trying to get one that's not cracked or anything. > > I did find this link on the Net, WRT replacing the pump, if anyone else is > interested: > http://jeepin.com/features/waterpump/index.asp > Looks pretty straightforward on there, with the possible exception of the > 4th bolt holding things in place. Of course, I'm expecting my mileage to > differ. I'll have to weigh the labour charges the garage gives vs. the > money I can make doing some contract work... > > Clint > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message > news:4511FB04.689F9B8E@sympatico.ca... > >I believe you either need a bottle 'or' a cap and not a pump unless it > > is leaking out the bottom of the snout under the pulley. > > > > If the bottle is cracked and you have to buy one, then you may as well > > get a new cap. More likely the cap washer is just old..... > > > > If this only happened once in hot traffic, then I would almost suspect > > the old cap just wasn't tight enough. > > > > You can do a visual inspection yourself. If your bottle has a long time > > seep or crack, there will be a green stain by the crack. If the cap > > washer is bad, there will be green stains around the rim. If it was a > > one time thing because the cap was loose, it should be clean. If it > > actually overheated because you have a bad pump or t-stat, then the top > > of the cap will have stains. > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > > > Clint wrote: > >> > >> The diagnosis from the garage is a new water pump and new bottle/cap. > >> They > >> are recommending replacing the thermostat as well, at the same time. The > >> thermostat and bottle/cap are no-brainers in terms of how-to (I think; > >> I've > >> done the thermostat before), but does anyone have a cheap source in > >> Canada > >> for the bottle? They're quoting $100 for the bottle, and $15 for the > >> cap, > >> which seems ridiculous, although the local NAPA says they can't get them > >> for > >> any price, so rarity is probably inflating the price. Something I can > >> get > >> in a timely fashion to Edmonton Alberta, in particular. > >> > >> The water pump I'm not so sure about, but my neighbor has offered to > >> assist > >> in the operation. I've got the full-service manual as well, but that > >> might > >> not be the final answer either. Ah, well, the library has a Chilton's > >> and > >> Hayne's guide, I think. :) > >> > >> Clint > >> > >> "Clint" <nobody@nowhere.none> wrote in message > >> news:igIPg.555744$iF6.409921@pd7tw2no... > >> > So we had a really hot day here awhile ago, and I ended up overheating > >> > my > >> > Jeep Comanche (4.0l engine). I had problems before, but nothing like > >> > that. Stuck in stop and go traffic, hot temps, etc. > >> > > >> > So I'm trying to do a little diagnosis, but I'm not that automotively > >> > inclined. But what I'm seeing if very little coolant flow when the > >> > Jeep > >> > is idling. I have no way of measuring it, but it seems to just be > >> > trickling into the tank. When I had my helper/wife rev it up to 2000 > >> > rpm, > >> > it flowed much faster, but still not a torrent or anything. > >> > > >> > Is it possible that the water pump has gone caput, even though it's not > >> > locked up or anything? Should I start with just replacing that? > >> > > >> > Thanks in advance. This group has been a great asset in the past. > >> > > >> > Clint > >> > > > |
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