88 Cherokee won't crank, lights do work
11-27-2006, 02:03 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Cherokee won't crank, lights do work
Looks like the negative battery cable was in pretty bad shape.
Replaced and able to connect the broken fuse link without it burning
more. Braided ground wire was still very nicely intact.
Now I am unable to determine the fusible link gauge used for this
model. Have green and orange coated wires for the links, so not sure
if they indicate different gauges. So far all I have found at the
local parts shop is black fuse link wire.
Once I get this I assume some resin core solder should do the trick
with a good tape job. I also have liquid wire coating that I could use
that may work better.
Any guidance is appreciated.
Thanks,
Jon
Replaced and able to connect the broken fuse link without it burning
more. Braided ground wire was still very nicely intact.
Now I am unable to determine the fusible link gauge used for this
model. Have green and orange coated wires for the links, so not sure
if they indicate different gauges. So far all I have found at the
local parts shop is black fuse link wire.
Once I get this I assume some resin core solder should do the trick
with a good tape job. I also have liquid wire coating that I could use
that may work better.
Any guidance is appreciated.
Thanks,
Jon
11-27-2006, 02:03 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Cherokee won't crank, lights do work
Looks like the negative battery cable was in pretty bad shape.
Replaced and able to connect the broken fuse link without it burning
more. Braided ground wire was still very nicely intact.
Now I am unable to determine the fusible link gauge used for this
model. Have green and orange coated wires for the links, so not sure
if they indicate different gauges. So far all I have found at the
local parts shop is black fuse link wire.
Once I get this I assume some resin core solder should do the trick
with a good tape job. I also have liquid wire coating that I could use
that may work better.
Any guidance is appreciated.
Thanks,
Jon
Replaced and able to connect the broken fuse link without it burning
more. Braided ground wire was still very nicely intact.
Now I am unable to determine the fusible link gauge used for this
model. Have green and orange coated wires for the links, so not sure
if they indicate different gauges. So far all I have found at the
local parts shop is black fuse link wire.
Once I get this I assume some resin core solder should do the trick
with a good tape job. I also have liquid wire coating that I could use
that may work better.
Any guidance is appreciated.
Thanks,
Jon
11-27-2006, 02:53 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Cherokee won't crank, lights do work
On Mon, 27 Nov 2006 11:03:55 -0800, MrClod wrote:
> Once I get this I assume some resin core solder should do the trick with a
> good tape job. I also have liquid wire coating that I could use that may
> work better.
You should be able to get fuse wire in several guages indicated by the
color code - try a better parts shop. Don't even think about soldering
fuse links! Get a decent crimper and appropriate size fittings for the
ends. Crimp new lugs on the ends and go with it. If I feel like there is
a significant corrosion problem I might dunk the ends in a
plastic/rubberized paint solution - remember that there is probably an
open hole on the connectospade side of the crimp as well - but I rarely
mess with it. I did that on a marine application once and it didn't make
too much difference over time.
> Once I get this I assume some resin core solder should do the trick with a
> good tape job. I also have liquid wire coating that I could use that may
> work better.
You should be able to get fuse wire in several guages indicated by the
color code - try a better parts shop. Don't even think about soldering
fuse links! Get a decent crimper and appropriate size fittings for the
ends. Crimp new lugs on the ends and go with it. If I feel like there is
a significant corrosion problem I might dunk the ends in a
plastic/rubberized paint solution - remember that there is probably an
open hole on the connectospade side of the crimp as well - but I rarely
mess with it. I did that on a marine application once and it didn't make
too much difference over time.
11-27-2006, 02:53 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Cherokee won't crank, lights do work
On Mon, 27 Nov 2006 11:03:55 -0800, MrClod wrote:
> Once I get this I assume some resin core solder should do the trick with a
> good tape job. I also have liquid wire coating that I could use that may
> work better.
You should be able to get fuse wire in several guages indicated by the
color code - try a better parts shop. Don't even think about soldering
fuse links! Get a decent crimper and appropriate size fittings for the
ends. Crimp new lugs on the ends and go with it. If I feel like there is
a significant corrosion problem I might dunk the ends in a
plastic/rubberized paint solution - remember that there is probably an
open hole on the connectospade side of the crimp as well - but I rarely
mess with it. I did that on a marine application once and it didn't make
too much difference over time.
> Once I get this I assume some resin core solder should do the trick with a
> good tape job. I also have liquid wire coating that I could use that may
> work better.
You should be able to get fuse wire in several guages indicated by the
color code - try a better parts shop. Don't even think about soldering
fuse links! Get a decent crimper and appropriate size fittings for the
ends. Crimp new lugs on the ends and go with it. If I feel like there is
a significant corrosion problem I might dunk the ends in a
plastic/rubberized paint solution - remember that there is probably an
open hole on the connectospade side of the crimp as well - but I rarely
mess with it. I did that on a marine application once and it didn't make
too much difference over time.
11-27-2006, 02:53 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Cherokee won't crank, lights do work
On Mon, 27 Nov 2006 11:03:55 -0800, MrClod wrote:
> Once I get this I assume some resin core solder should do the trick with a
> good tape job. I also have liquid wire coating that I could use that may
> work better.
You should be able to get fuse wire in several guages indicated by the
color code - try a better parts shop. Don't even think about soldering
fuse links! Get a decent crimper and appropriate size fittings for the
ends. Crimp new lugs on the ends and go with it. If I feel like there is
a significant corrosion problem I might dunk the ends in a
plastic/rubberized paint solution - remember that there is probably an
open hole on the connectospade side of the crimp as well - but I rarely
mess with it. I did that on a marine application once and it didn't make
too much difference over time.
> Once I get this I assume some resin core solder should do the trick with a
> good tape job. I also have liquid wire coating that I could use that may
> work better.
You should be able to get fuse wire in several guages indicated by the
color code - try a better parts shop. Don't even think about soldering
fuse links! Get a decent crimper and appropriate size fittings for the
ends. Crimp new lugs on the ends and go with it. If I feel like there is
a significant corrosion problem I might dunk the ends in a
plastic/rubberized paint solution - remember that there is probably an
open hole on the connectospade side of the crimp as well - but I rarely
mess with it. I did that on a marine application once and it didn't make
too much difference over time.
11-27-2006, 04:45 PM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Cherokee won't crank, lights do work
You can't solder fuse link wires, it will damage the properties of it.
They sell waterproof crimp connectors these days, you just heat them
after crimping.
The ignition fuse link is a 14 ga one protecting the 10 ga wires.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
MrClod wrote:
>
> Looks like the negative battery cable was in pretty bad shape.
> Replaced and able to connect the broken fuse link without it burning
> more. Braided ground wire was still very nicely intact.
>
> Now I am unable to determine the fusible link gauge used for this
> model. Have green and orange coated wires for the links, so not sure
> if they indicate different gauges. So far all I have found at the
> local parts shop is black fuse link wire.
>
> Once I get this I assume some resin core solder should do the trick
> with a good tape job. I also have liquid wire coating that I could use
> that may work better.
>
> Any guidance is appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jon
They sell waterproof crimp connectors these days, you just heat them
after crimping.
The ignition fuse link is a 14 ga one protecting the 10 ga wires.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
MrClod wrote:
>
> Looks like the negative battery cable was in pretty bad shape.
> Replaced and able to connect the broken fuse link without it burning
> more. Braided ground wire was still very nicely intact.
>
> Now I am unable to determine the fusible link gauge used for this
> model. Have green and orange coated wires for the links, so not sure
> if they indicate different gauges. So far all I have found at the
> local parts shop is black fuse link wire.
>
> Once I get this I assume some resin core solder should do the trick
> with a good tape job. I also have liquid wire coating that I could use
> that may work better.
>
> Any guidance is appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jon
11-27-2006, 04:45 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Cherokee won't crank, lights do work
You can't solder fuse link wires, it will damage the properties of it.
They sell waterproof crimp connectors these days, you just heat them
after crimping.
The ignition fuse link is a 14 ga one protecting the 10 ga wires.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
MrClod wrote:
>
> Looks like the negative battery cable was in pretty bad shape.
> Replaced and able to connect the broken fuse link without it burning
> more. Braided ground wire was still very nicely intact.
>
> Now I am unable to determine the fusible link gauge used for this
> model. Have green and orange coated wires for the links, so not sure
> if they indicate different gauges. So far all I have found at the
> local parts shop is black fuse link wire.
>
> Once I get this I assume some resin core solder should do the trick
> with a good tape job. I also have liquid wire coating that I could use
> that may work better.
>
> Any guidance is appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jon
They sell waterproof crimp connectors these days, you just heat them
after crimping.
The ignition fuse link is a 14 ga one protecting the 10 ga wires.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
MrClod wrote:
>
> Looks like the negative battery cable was in pretty bad shape.
> Replaced and able to connect the broken fuse link without it burning
> more. Braided ground wire was still very nicely intact.
>
> Now I am unable to determine the fusible link gauge used for this
> model. Have green and orange coated wires for the links, so not sure
> if they indicate different gauges. So far all I have found at the
> local parts shop is black fuse link wire.
>
> Once I get this I assume some resin core solder should do the trick
> with a good tape job. I also have liquid wire coating that I could use
> that may work better.
>
> Any guidance is appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jon
11-27-2006, 04:45 PM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 88 Cherokee won't crank, lights do work
You can't solder fuse link wires, it will damage the properties of it.
They sell waterproof crimp connectors these days, you just heat them
after crimping.
The ignition fuse link is a 14 ga one protecting the 10 ga wires.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
MrClod wrote:
>
> Looks like the negative battery cable was in pretty bad shape.
> Replaced and able to connect the broken fuse link without it burning
> more. Braided ground wire was still very nicely intact.
>
> Now I am unable to determine the fusible link gauge used for this
> model. Have green and orange coated wires for the links, so not sure
> if they indicate different gauges. So far all I have found at the
> local parts shop is black fuse link wire.
>
> Once I get this I assume some resin core solder should do the trick
> with a good tape job. I also have liquid wire coating that I could use
> that may work better.
>
> Any guidance is appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jon
They sell waterproof crimp connectors these days, you just heat them
after crimping.
The ignition fuse link is a 14 ga one protecting the 10 ga wires.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
MrClod wrote:
>
> Looks like the negative battery cable was in pretty bad shape.
> Replaced and able to connect the broken fuse link without it burning
> more. Braided ground wire was still very nicely intact.
>
> Now I am unable to determine the fusible link gauge used for this
> model. Have green and orange coated wires for the links, so not sure
> if they indicate different gauges. So far all I have found at the
> local parts shop is black fuse link wire.
>
> Once I get this I assume some resin core solder should do the trick
> with a good tape job. I also have liquid wire coating that I could use
> that may work better.
>
> Any guidance is appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jon
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