Hi Carlo,
I agree with you that the YJ's hydraulic clutch setup is probably
the most difficult job I've done. Stock, the line takes a loop higher
the the reservoir guaranteeing an air pocket, unless you blow it
through, hard, or did as I did and removed the master cylinder and
pumped from a high point. I'm still managing without a pressure bleeder,
but have many little adapters that I've made to use with a blow gun and
reservoir cap.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Carlo wrote:
>
> It's much more difficult (for me, at least) to bleed a clutch than brakes.
> When you mash the brake pedal down & it feels solid your done - but you
> obviously don't get that with a clutch. Call me lazy.............but I
> worked @ a Ford dealer in 1966 when I received my draft notice. I sold my
> power bleeder to a friend/fellow mechanic for $20.00 (thinking that I would
> never need it again) & then spent it (and then some) on wine, women & song
> that night...............I know, I know - I digress
>
> I finally bought another one a couple of years ago. I put 2 or 3 qts of
> fluid on the floor, "bleeding" the clutch on the Explorer, became rather
> frustrated, bought the power bleeder & 2 burps later was done. It cost me
> about $200.00 (10 x what I sold my old one for) - but I think I saved that
> much in brake fluid.
>
> I'm thinking....maybe bad master cylinder, maybe bad slave cylinder, maybe
> just more air. A man never has too many tools. Find a power bleeder - see
> how long that lasts (also might help you find a leak you didn't think you
> had) - then look @ the master cylinder & slave cylinder
>
> --
> Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> O|||||||O
> '92 Explorer '65 Mustang

 

Hi Carlo,
I agree with you that the YJ's hydraulic clutch setup is probably
the most difficult job I've done. Stock, the line takes a loop higher
the the reservoir guaranteeing an air pocket, unless you blow it
through, hard, or did as I did and removed the master cylinder and
pumped from a high point. I'm still managing without a pressure bleeder,
but have many little adapters that I've made to use with a blow gun and
reservoir cap.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Carlo wrote:
>
> It's much more difficult (for me, at least) to bleed a clutch than brakes.
> When you mash the brake pedal down & it feels solid your done - but you
> obviously don't get that with a clutch. Call me lazy.............but I
> worked @ a Ford dealer in 1966 when I received my draft notice. I sold my
> power bleeder to a friend/fellow mechanic for $20.00 (thinking that I would
> never need it again) & then spent it (and then some) on wine, women & song
> that night...............I know, I know - I digress
>
> I finally bought another one a couple of years ago. I put 2 or 3 qts of
> fluid on the floor, "bleeding" the clutch on the Explorer, became rather
> frustrated, bought the power bleeder & 2 burps later was done. It cost me
> about $200.00 (10 x what I sold my old one for) - but I think I saved that
> much in brake fluid.
>
> I'm thinking....maybe bad master cylinder, maybe bad slave cylinder, maybe
> just more air. A man never has too many tools. Find a power bleeder - see
> how long that lasts (also might help you find a leak you didn't think you
> had) - then look @ the master cylinder & slave cylinder
>
> --
> Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> O|||||||O
> '92 Explorer '65 Mustang

 

Hi Carlo,
I agree with you that the YJ's hydraulic clutch setup is probably
the most difficult job I've done. Stock, the line takes a loop higher
the the reservoir guaranteeing an air pocket, unless you blow it
through, hard, or did as I did and removed the master cylinder and
pumped from a high point. I'm still managing without a pressure bleeder,
but have many little adapters that I've made to use with a blow gun and
reservoir cap.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Carlo wrote:
>
> It's much more difficult (for me, at least) to bleed a clutch than brakes.
> When you mash the brake pedal down & it feels solid your done - but you
> obviously don't get that with a clutch. Call me lazy.............but I
> worked @ a Ford dealer in 1966 when I received my draft notice. I sold my
> power bleeder to a friend/fellow mechanic for $20.00 (thinking that I would
> never need it again) & then spent it (and then some) on wine, women & song
> that night...............I know, I know - I digress
>
> I finally bought another one a couple of years ago. I put 2 or 3 qts of
> fluid on the floor, "bleeding" the clutch on the Explorer, became rather
> frustrated, bought the power bleeder & 2 burps later was done. It cost me
> about $200.00 (10 x what I sold my old one for) - but I think I saved that
> much in brake fluid.
>
> I'm thinking....maybe bad master cylinder, maybe bad slave cylinder, maybe
> just more air. A man never has too many tools. Find a power bleeder - see
> how long that lasts (also might help you find a leak you didn't think you
> had) - then look @ the master cylinder & slave cylinder
>
> --
> Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh
> carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet
> '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II
> O|||||||O
> '92 Explorer '65 Mustang

 

Thanks for the suggestions so far.

I've been using the DOT 3 brake fluid as per the Chilton's that I
have.

I've never replaced it with an OEM MC, always from the local "irish"
parts house. It's had a lifetime warranty, so I've always gone back to
them for the replacement (the last two were stamped "made in Italy".)
Could there be that enough difference in parts manufacturing to create
this problem?

To touch on Steve G's reply....there is a return spring on the clutch
pedal, but I assume this is original. I've owned this vehicle since
'96 and have not modified or replaced any part of the clutch pedal
assembly.

Also, when replacing the MC each time the pedal with get firm (as
expected) when bled, but as it begins to "fail" (for lack of a better
term) the pressure that is acquired is not nearly as stiff.

Thanks again.

Neale

L.W.(ßill) ------ III <----------@***.net> wrote in message news:<403D6407.D4E6344E@***.net>...
> It either leaks or the master cups are not holding again, seems
> hard to believe unless something other than brake fluid was used, which
> means you have to replace the slave again, too.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Neale wrote:
> >
> > Greetings,
> > I've got a strange one with the clutch system on a 87 YJ (258 5spd
> > puegot tranny - internal slave)
> >
> > Around a year ago I had the slave cylinder replaced (and while they
> > were in there the TO bearing, clutch plate..the works).
> >
> > Roughly six months later the clutch wasn't disengaging, no apparent
> > leaks, so I decided to replace the master cylinder. Hey worked great -
> > for about 3 months.
> >
> > Replaced the MC once again - problem solved - for about 1 month.
> >
> > I thought maybe it was that the clutch wasn't bled properly, so I went
> > through a series of bleeding - works for a day or two then not. Now
> > the bleeding just to get it to run for a few days isn't even working.
> >
> > And as before, there appears to be no lose of fluid/leaks.
> >
> > Anyone?

 

Thanks for the suggestions so far.

I've been using the DOT 3 brake fluid as per the Chilton's that I
have.

I've never replaced it with an OEM MC, always from the local "irish"
parts house. It's had a lifetime warranty, so I've always gone back to
them for the replacement (the last two were stamped "made in Italy".)
Could there be that enough difference in parts manufacturing to create
this problem?

To touch on Steve G's reply....there is a return spring on the clutch
pedal, but I assume this is original. I've owned this vehicle since
'96 and have not modified or replaced any part of the clutch pedal
assembly.

Also, when replacing the MC each time the pedal with get firm (as
expected) when bled, but as it begins to "fail" (for lack of a better
term) the pressure that is acquired is not nearly as stiff.

Thanks again.

Neale

L.W.(ßill) ------ III <----------@***.net> wrote in message news:<403D6407.D4E6344E@***.net>...
> It either leaks or the master cups are not holding again, seems
> hard to believe unless something other than brake fluid was used, which
> means you have to replace the slave again, too.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Neale wrote:
> >
> > Greetings,
> > I've got a strange one with the clutch system on a 87 YJ (258 5spd
> > puegot tranny - internal slave)
> >
> > Around a year ago I had the slave cylinder replaced (and while they
> > were in there the TO bearing, clutch plate..the works).
> >
> > Roughly six months later the clutch wasn't disengaging, no apparent
> > leaks, so I decided to replace the master cylinder. Hey worked great -
> > for about 3 months.
> >
> > Replaced the MC once again - problem solved - for about 1 month.
> >
> > I thought maybe it was that the clutch wasn't bled properly, so I went
> > through a series of bleeding - works for a day or two then not. Now
> > the bleeding just to get it to run for a few days isn't even working.
> >
> > And as before, there appears to be no lose of fluid/leaks.
> >
> > Anyone?

 

Thanks for the suggestions so far.

I've been using the DOT 3 brake fluid as per the Chilton's that I
have.

I've never replaced it with an OEM MC, always from the local "irish"
parts house. It's had a lifetime warranty, so I've always gone back to
them for the replacement (the last two were stamped "made in Italy".)
Could there be that enough difference in parts manufacturing to create
this problem?

To touch on Steve G's reply....there is a return spring on the clutch
pedal, but I assume this is original. I've owned this vehicle since
'96 and have not modified or replaced any part of the clutch pedal
assembly.

Also, when replacing the MC each time the pedal with get firm (as
expected) when bled, but as it begins to "fail" (for lack of a better
term) the pressure that is acquired is not nearly as stiff.

Thanks again.

Neale

L.W.(ßill) ------ III <----------@***.net> wrote in message news:<403D6407.D4E6344E@***.net>...
> It either leaks or the master cups are not holding again, seems
> hard to believe unless something other than brake fluid was used, which
> means you have to replace the slave again, too.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Neale wrote:
> >
> > Greetings,
> > I've got a strange one with the clutch system on a 87 YJ (258 5spd
> > puegot tranny - internal slave)
> >
> > Around a year ago I had the slave cylinder replaced (and while they
> > were in there the TO bearing, clutch plate..the works).
> >
> > Roughly six months later the clutch wasn't disengaging, no apparent
> > leaks, so I decided to replace the master cylinder. Hey worked great -
> > for about 3 months.
> >
> > Replaced the MC once again - problem solved - for about 1 month.
> >
> > I thought maybe it was that the clutch wasn't bled properly, so I went
> > through a series of bleeding - works for a day or two then not. Now
> > the bleeding just to get it to run for a few days isn't even working.
> >
> > And as before, there appears to be no lose of fluid/leaks.
> >
> > Anyone?

 

I gave up on rebuilt masters for the very reason you are seeing.

I 'think' that when they hone the bore out it goes oversize and they
don't sell oversize o-rings or pistons for it.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Neale wrote:
>
> Thanks for the suggestions so far.
>
> I've been using the DOT 3 brake fluid as per the Chilton's that I
> have.
>
> I've never replaced it with an OEM MC, always from the local "irish"
> parts house. It's had a lifetime warranty, so I've always gone back to
> them for the replacement (the last two were stamped "made in Italy".)
> Could there be that enough difference in parts manufacturing to create
> this problem?
>
> To touch on Steve G's reply....there is a return spring on the clutch
> pedal, but I assume this is original. I've owned this vehicle since
> '96 and have not modified or replaced any part of the clutch pedal
> assembly.
>
> Also, when replacing the MC each time the pedal with get firm (as
> expected) when bled, but as it begins to "fail" (for lack of a better
> term) the pressure that is acquired is not nearly as stiff.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Neale
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III <----------@***.net> wrote in message news:<403D6407.D4E6344E@***.net>...
> > It either leaks or the master cups are not holding again, seems
> > hard to believe unless something other than brake fluid was used, which
> > means you have to replace the slave again, too.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Neale wrote:
> > >
> > > Greetings,
> > > I've got a strange one with the clutch system on a 87 YJ (258 5spd
> > > puegot tranny - internal slave)
> > >
> > > Around a year ago I had the slave cylinder replaced (and while they
> > > were in there the TO bearing, clutch plate..the works).
> > >
> > > Roughly six months later the clutch wasn't disengaging, no apparent
> > > leaks, so I decided to replace the master cylinder. Hey worked great -
> > > for about 3 months.
> > >
> > > Replaced the MC once again - problem solved - for about 1 month.
> > >
> > > I thought maybe it was that the clutch wasn't bled properly, so I went
> > > through a series of bleeding - works for a day or two then not. Now
> > > the bleeding just to get it to run for a few days isn't even working.
> > >
> > > And as before, there appears to be no lose of fluid/leaks.
> > >
> > > Anyone?

 

I gave up on rebuilt masters for the very reason you are seeing.

I 'think' that when they hone the bore out it goes oversize and they
don't sell oversize o-rings or pistons for it.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Neale wrote:
>
> Thanks for the suggestions so far.
>
> I've been using the DOT 3 brake fluid as per the Chilton's that I
> have.
>
> I've never replaced it with an OEM MC, always from the local "irish"
> parts house. It's had a lifetime warranty, so I've always gone back to
> them for the replacement (the last two were stamped "made in Italy".)
> Could there be that enough difference in parts manufacturing to create
> this problem?
>
> To touch on Steve G's reply....there is a return spring on the clutch
> pedal, but I assume this is original. I've owned this vehicle since
> '96 and have not modified or replaced any part of the clutch pedal
> assembly.
>
> Also, when replacing the MC each time the pedal with get firm (as
> expected) when bled, but as it begins to "fail" (for lack of a better
> term) the pressure that is acquired is not nearly as stiff.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Neale
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III <----------@***.net> wrote in message news:<403D6407.D4E6344E@***.net>...
> > It either leaks or the master cups are not holding again, seems
> > hard to believe unless something other than brake fluid was used, which
> > means you have to replace the slave again, too.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Neale wrote:
> > >
> > > Greetings,
> > > I've got a strange one with the clutch system on a 87 YJ (258 5spd
> > > puegot tranny - internal slave)
> > >
> > > Around a year ago I had the slave cylinder replaced (and while they
> > > were in there the TO bearing, clutch plate..the works).
> > >
> > > Roughly six months later the clutch wasn't disengaging, no apparent
> > > leaks, so I decided to replace the master cylinder. Hey worked great -
> > > for about 3 months.
> > >
> > > Replaced the MC once again - problem solved - for about 1 month.
> > >
> > > I thought maybe it was that the clutch wasn't bled properly, so I went
> > > through a series of bleeding - works for a day or two then not. Now
> > > the bleeding just to get it to run for a few days isn't even working.
> > >
> > > And as before, there appears to be no lose of fluid/leaks.
> > >
> > > Anyone?

 

I gave up on rebuilt masters for the very reason you are seeing.

I 'think' that when they hone the bore out it goes oversize and they
don't sell oversize o-rings or pistons for it.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Neale wrote:
>
> Thanks for the suggestions so far.
>
> I've been using the DOT 3 brake fluid as per the Chilton's that I
> have.
>
> I've never replaced it with an OEM MC, always from the local "irish"
> parts house. It's had a lifetime warranty, so I've always gone back to
> them for the replacement (the last two were stamped "made in Italy".)
> Could there be that enough difference in parts manufacturing to create
> this problem?
>
> To touch on Steve G's reply....there is a return spring on the clutch
> pedal, but I assume this is original. I've owned this vehicle since
> '96 and have not modified or replaced any part of the clutch pedal
> assembly.
>
> Also, when replacing the MC each time the pedal with get firm (as
> expected) when bled, but as it begins to "fail" (for lack of a better
> term) the pressure that is acquired is not nearly as stiff.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Neale
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III <----------@***.net> wrote in message news:<403D6407.D4E6344E@***.net>...
> > It either leaks or the master cups are not holding again, seems
> > hard to believe unless something other than brake fluid was used, which
> > means you have to replace the slave again, too.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Neale wrote:
> > >
> > > Greetings,
> > > I've got a strange one with the clutch system on a 87 YJ (258 5spd
> > > puegot tranny - internal slave)
> > >
> > > Around a year ago I had the slave cylinder replaced (and while they
> > > were in there the TO bearing, clutch plate..the works).
> > >
> > > Roughly six months later the clutch wasn't disengaging, no apparent
> > > leaks, so I decided to replace the master cylinder. Hey worked great -
> > > for about 3 months.
> > >
> > > Replaced the MC once again - problem solved - for about 1 month.
> > >
> > > I thought maybe it was that the clutch wasn't bled properly, so I went
> > > through a series of bleeding - works for a day or two then not. Now
> > > the bleeding just to get it to run for a few days isn't even working.
> > >
> > > And as before, there appears to be no lose of fluid/leaks.
> > >
> > > Anyone?

 

Hi Mike,
On one my Brother-in-law bought the piston return spring was not
strong enough push the cup back far enough to get to the reservoir
opening, with blowing it back, then we power bleeded, without attempting
to pump it, to make it work.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I gave up on rebuilt masters for the very reason you are seeing.
>
> I 'think' that when they hone the bore out it goes oversize and they
> don't sell oversize o-rings or pistons for it.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's