Ronald Keller

Okay, I've posted once about this leak and I've been getting some
conflicting info, so let me re-post and throw it out to you guys.
I have an 84 CJ7 with a 258. There are some enigine mods (Clifford valve
cover, header - nothing real important). The Jeep all of a sudden started
leaking - my mechanic said it was the rear main seal and to "just live with
it". When I pressed him about replacing it - he said it wasn't worth them
doing it because they have to lift the engine, pull the camshaft. When I
posted that here, everyone disagreed, saying it can be done without pulling
the camshaft, so I put it back in his lap. He said that "yes, it can be
done, but the design of the seal is tht the camshaft has to "crush" the seal
to make it leak proof. If I don't do it "the right way", he won't guarantee
it won't leak.
A little background: The guy is the main mechanic at a shop owned by my best
friend - they do all the work at cost for me, so this isn't a case of them
trying to rob me. Secondly, the guy is a Jeep/Chrysler mechanic for 20
years - he's done a ton of these at the dealership.
My question is: Is he right, in everyone opinion? I don't want to pay
someone to do the job and then end up with the same damn problem. Any
ideas? My driveway is looking like CRAP with oil spots!!!!!
Thanks in advance - Ron

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

http://www.northeastonlinewheelers.org/rms1.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Ronald Keller wrote:
>
> Okay, I've posted once about this leak and I've been getting some
> conflicting info, so let me re-post and throw it out to you guys.
> I have an 84 CJ7 with a 258. There are some enigine mods (Clifford valve
> cover, header - nothing real important). The Jeep all of a sudden started
> leaking - my mechanic said it was the rear main seal and to "just live with
> it". When I pressed him about replacing it - he said it wasn't worth them
> doing it because they have to lift the engine, pull the camshaft. When I
> posted that here, everyone disagreed, saying it can be done without pulling
> the camshaft, so I put it back in his lap. He said that "yes, it can be
> done, but the design of the seal is tht the camshaft has to "crush" the seal
> to make it leak proof. If I don't do it "the right way", he won't guarantee
> it won't leak.
> A little background: The guy is the main mechanic at a shop owned by my best
> friend - they do all the work at cost for me, so this isn't a case of them
> trying to rob me. Secondly, the guy is a Jeep/Chrysler mechanic for 20
> years - he's done a ton of these at the dealership.
> My question is: Is he right, in everyone opinion? I don't want to pay
> someone to do the job and then end up with the same damn problem. Any
> ideas? My driveway is looking like CRAP with oil spots!!!!!
> Thanks in advance - Ron

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

http://www.northeastonlinewheelers.org/rms1.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Ronald Keller wrote:
>
> Okay, I've posted once about this leak and I've been getting some
> conflicting info, so let me re-post and throw it out to you guys.
> I have an 84 CJ7 with a 258. There are some enigine mods (Clifford valve
> cover, header - nothing real important). The Jeep all of a sudden started
> leaking - my mechanic said it was the rear main seal and to "just live with
> it". When I pressed him about replacing it - he said it wasn't worth them
> doing it because they have to lift the engine, pull the camshaft. When I
> posted that here, everyone disagreed, saying it can be done without pulling
> the camshaft, so I put it back in his lap. He said that "yes, it can be
> done, but the design of the seal is tht the camshaft has to "crush" the seal
> to make it leak proof. If I don't do it "the right way", he won't guarantee
> it won't leak.
> A little background: The guy is the main mechanic at a shop owned by my best
> friend - they do all the work at cost for me, so this isn't a case of them
> trying to rob me. Secondly, the guy is a Jeep/Chrysler mechanic for 20
> years - he's done a ton of these at the dealership.
> My question is: Is he right, in everyone opinion? I don't want to pay
> someone to do the job and then end up with the same damn problem. Any
> ideas? My driveway is looking like CRAP with oil spots!!!!!
> Thanks in advance - Ron

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

http://www.northeastonlinewheelers.org/rms1.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Ronald Keller wrote:
>
> Okay, I've posted once about this leak and I've been getting some
> conflicting info, so let me re-post and throw it out to you guys.
> I have an 84 CJ7 with a 258. There are some enigine mods (Clifford valve
> cover, header - nothing real important). The Jeep all of a sudden started
> leaking - my mechanic said it was the rear main seal and to "just live with
> it". When I pressed him about replacing it - he said it wasn't worth them
> doing it because they have to lift the engine, pull the camshaft. When I
> posted that here, everyone disagreed, saying it can be done without pulling
> the camshaft, so I put it back in his lap. He said that "yes, it can be
> done, but the design of the seal is tht the camshaft has to "crush" the seal
> to make it leak proof. If I don't do it "the right way", he won't guarantee
> it won't leak.
> A little background: The guy is the main mechanic at a shop owned by my best
> friend - they do all the work at cost for me, so this isn't a case of them
> trying to rob me. Secondly, the guy is a Jeep/Chrysler mechanic for 20
> years - he's done a ton of these at the dealership.
> My question is: Is he right, in everyone opinion? I don't want to pay
> someone to do the job and then end up with the same damn problem. Any
> ideas? My driveway is looking like CRAP with oil spots!!!!!
> Thanks in advance - Ron

Gerald G. McGeorge

There is no connection between a 258's cam and the main seal. Further, it
could simply be the valve cover gasket or
even a loose oil filter, etc. It is not necessary to pull the engine,
although on a CJ you may have to put a jack under the trans and pull one
motor mount. (If he's been there for 20 years I wonder what he's been
doing?)

Take it somewhere else, even if it's the rear main it's a 2-3 hour job and
all you have to do is pull the oil pan and rear main bearing cap.

"Ronald Keller" <rkeller8@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
news:ey1gb.71639$eS5.68160@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
> Okay, I've posted once about this leak and I've been getting some
> conflicting info, so let me re-post and throw it out to you guys.
> I have an 84 CJ7 with a 258. There are some enigine mods (Clifford valve
> cover, header - nothing real important). The Jeep all of a sudden started
> leaking - my mechanic said it was the rear main seal and to "just live
with
> it". When I pressed him about replacing it - he said it wasn't worth them
> doing it because they have to lift the engine, pull the camshaft. When I
> posted that here, everyone disagreed, saying it can be done without
pulling
> the camshaft, so I put it back in his lap. He said that "yes, it can be
> done, but the design of the seal is tht the camshaft has to "crush" the
seal
> to make it leak proof. If I don't do it "the right way", he won't
guarantee
> it won't leak.
> A little background: The guy is the main mechanic at a shop owned by my
best
> friend - they do all the work at cost for me, so this isn't a case of them
> trying to rob me. Secondly, the guy is a Jeep/Chrysler mechanic for 20
> years - he's done a ton of these at the dealership.
> My question is: Is he right, in everyone opinion? I don't want to pay
> someone to do the job and then end up with the same damn problem. Any
> ideas? My driveway is looking like CRAP with oil spots!!!!!
> Thanks in advance - Ron
>
>

Gerald G. McGeorge

There is no connection between a 258's cam and the main seal. Further, it
could simply be the valve cover gasket or
even a loose oil filter, etc. It is not necessary to pull the engine,
although on a CJ you may have to put a jack under the trans and pull one
motor mount. (If he's been there for 20 years I wonder what he's been
doing?)

Take it somewhere else, even if it's the rear main it's a 2-3 hour job and
all you have to do is pull the oil pan and rear main bearing cap.

"Ronald Keller" <rkeller8@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
news:ey1gb.71639$eS5.68160@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
> Okay, I've posted once about this leak and I've been getting some
> conflicting info, so let me re-post and throw it out to you guys.
> I have an 84 CJ7 with a 258. There are some enigine mods (Clifford valve
> cover, header - nothing real important). The Jeep all of a sudden started
> leaking - my mechanic said it was the rear main seal and to "just live
with
> it". When I pressed him about replacing it - he said it wasn't worth them
> doing it because they have to lift the engine, pull the camshaft. When I
> posted that here, everyone disagreed, saying it can be done without
pulling
> the camshaft, so I put it back in his lap. He said that "yes, it can be
> done, but the design of the seal is tht the camshaft has to "crush" the
seal
> to make it leak proof. If I don't do it "the right way", he won't
guarantee
> it won't leak.
> A little background: The guy is the main mechanic at a shop owned by my
best
> friend - they do all the work at cost for me, so this isn't a case of them
> trying to rob me. Secondly, the guy is a Jeep/Chrysler mechanic for 20
> years - he's done a ton of these at the dealership.
> My question is: Is he right, in everyone opinion? I don't want to pay
> someone to do the job and then end up with the same damn problem. Any
> ideas? My driveway is looking like CRAP with oil spots!!!!!
> Thanks in advance - Ron
>
>

Gerald G. McGeorge

There is no connection between a 258's cam and the main seal. Further, it
could simply be the valve cover gasket or
even a loose oil filter, etc. It is not necessary to pull the engine,
although on a CJ you may have to put a jack under the trans and pull one
motor mount. (If he's been there for 20 years I wonder what he's been
doing?)

Take it somewhere else, even if it's the rear main it's a 2-3 hour job and
all you have to do is pull the oil pan and rear main bearing cap.

"Ronald Keller" <rkeller8@tampabay.rr.com> wrote in message
news:ey1gb.71639$eS5.68160@twister.tampabay.rr.com ...
> Okay, I've posted once about this leak and I've been getting some
> conflicting info, so let me re-post and throw it out to you guys.
> I have an 84 CJ7 with a 258. There are some enigine mods (Clifford valve
> cover, header - nothing real important). The Jeep all of a sudden started
> leaking - my mechanic said it was the rear main seal and to "just live
with
> it". When I pressed him about replacing it - he said it wasn't worth them
> doing it because they have to lift the engine, pull the camshaft. When I
> posted that here, everyone disagreed, saying it can be done without
pulling
> the camshaft, so I put it back in his lap. He said that "yes, it can be
> done, but the design of the seal is tht the camshaft has to "crush" the
seal
> to make it leak proof. If I don't do it "the right way", he won't
guarantee
> it won't leak.
> A little background: The guy is the main mechanic at a shop owned by my
best
> friend - they do all the work at cost for me, so this isn't a case of them
> trying to rob me. Secondly, the guy is a Jeep/Chrysler mechanic for 20
> years - he's done a ton of these at the dealership.
> My question is: Is he right, in everyone opinion? I don't want to pay
> someone to do the job and then end up with the same damn problem. Any
> ideas? My driveway is looking like CRAP with oil spots!!!!!
> Thanks in advance - Ron
>
>

Mike Romain

If you need it, it is an afternoon job in the driveway. I have done 3
in my driveway with 100% success.

But!

'Usually' a drip off the rear is caused by a leak up top. You should do
yourself a favor and start the engine up, then run a clean rag around
the rear of the engine head below the valve cover. My bet is you will
find fresh oil there.

A valve cover is 'way' easier to fix. Sometimes all you have to do is
tighten up the bolts. They like to sneak loose.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Ronald Keller wrote:
>
> Okay, I've posted once about this leak and I've been getting some
> conflicting info, so let me re-post and throw it out to you guys.
> I have an 84 CJ7 with a 258. There are some enigine mods (Clifford valve
> cover, header - nothing real important). The Jeep all of a sudden started
> leaking - my mechanic said it was the rear main seal and to "just live with
> it". When I pressed him about replacing it - he said it wasn't worth them
> doing it because they have to lift the engine, pull the camshaft. When I
> posted that here, everyone disagreed, saying it can be done without pulling
> the camshaft, so I put it back in his lap. He said that "yes, it can be
> done, but the design of the seal is tht the camshaft has to "crush" the seal
> to make it leak proof. If I don't do it "the right way", he won't guarantee
> it won't leak.
> A little background: The guy is the main mechanic at a shop owned by my best
> friend - they do all the work at cost for me, so this isn't a case of them
> trying to rob me. Secondly, the guy is a Jeep/Chrysler mechanic for 20
> years - he's done a ton of these at the dealership.
> My question is: Is he right, in everyone opinion? I don't want to pay
> someone to do the job and then end up with the same damn problem. Any
> ideas? My driveway is looking like CRAP with oil spots!!!!!
> Thanks in advance - Ron

Mike Romain

If you need it, it is an afternoon job in the driveway. I have done 3
in my driveway with 100% success.

But!

'Usually' a drip off the rear is caused by a leak up top. You should do
yourself a favor and start the engine up, then run a clean rag around
the rear of the engine head below the valve cover. My bet is you will
find fresh oil there.

A valve cover is 'way' easier to fix. Sometimes all you have to do is
tighten up the bolts. They like to sneak loose.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Ronald Keller wrote:
>
> Okay, I've posted once about this leak and I've been getting some
> conflicting info, so let me re-post and throw it out to you guys.
> I have an 84 CJ7 with a 258. There are some enigine mods (Clifford valve
> cover, header - nothing real important). The Jeep all of a sudden started
> leaking - my mechanic said it was the rear main seal and to "just live with
> it". When I pressed him about replacing it - he said it wasn't worth them
> doing it because they have to lift the engine, pull the camshaft. When I
> posted that here, everyone disagreed, saying it can be done without pulling
> the camshaft, so I put it back in his lap. He said that "yes, it can be
> done, but the design of the seal is tht the camshaft has to "crush" the seal
> to make it leak proof. If I don't do it "the right way", he won't guarantee
> it won't leak.
> A little background: The guy is the main mechanic at a shop owned by my best
> friend - they do all the work at cost for me, so this isn't a case of them
> trying to rob me. Secondly, the guy is a Jeep/Chrysler mechanic for 20
> years - he's done a ton of these at the dealership.
> My question is: Is he right, in everyone opinion? I don't want to pay
> someone to do the job and then end up with the same damn problem. Any
> ideas? My driveway is looking like CRAP with oil spots!!!!!
> Thanks in advance - Ron

Mike Romain

If you need it, it is an afternoon job in the driveway. I have done 3
in my driveway with 100% success.

But!

'Usually' a drip off the rear is caused by a leak up top. You should do
yourself a favor and start the engine up, then run a clean rag around
the rear of the engine head below the valve cover. My bet is you will
find fresh oil there.

A valve cover is 'way' easier to fix. Sometimes all you have to do is
tighten up the bolts. They like to sneak loose.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Ronald Keller wrote:
>
> Okay, I've posted once about this leak and I've been getting some
> conflicting info, so let me re-post and throw it out to you guys.
> I have an 84 CJ7 with a 258. There are some enigine mods (Clifford valve
> cover, header - nothing real important). The Jeep all of a sudden started
> leaking - my mechanic said it was the rear main seal and to "just live with
> it". When I pressed him about replacing it - he said it wasn't worth them
> doing it because they have to lift the engine, pull the camshaft. When I
> posted that here, everyone disagreed, saying it can be done without pulling
> the camshaft, so I put it back in his lap. He said that "yes, it can be
> done, but the design of the seal is tht the camshaft has to "crush" the seal
> to make it leak proof. If I don't do it "the right way", he won't guarantee
> it won't leak.
> A little background: The guy is the main mechanic at a shop owned by my best
> friend - they do all the work at cost for me, so this isn't a case of them
> trying to rob me. Secondly, the guy is a Jeep/Chrysler mechanic for 20
> years - he's done a ton of these at the dealership.
> My question is: Is he right, in everyone opinion? I don't want to pay
> someone to do the job and then end up with the same damn problem. Any
> ideas? My driveway is looking like CRAP with oil spots!!!!!
> Thanks in advance - Ron