82 cj5 Hub
10-06-2005, 04:54 PM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 82 cj5 Hub
That makes sense to me. You already know that the hub you have now, will
break before anything else. Keep it as a "weak link" or fuse. You are of
course assuming that the Warn is a better unit. The last set I bought, for
my Suburban, look pretty cheap. They have a trim piece, that fell off after
a few months. I was not impressed with this behavior. Not from a company
with a name like Warn.
Earle
"CJ5 on 35's" <kmoses@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1128631426.541698.103990@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> the reason i do not want to replace both with warn is that with an open
> front diff as long as one is weak that is what will break when i do
> something stupid again.
>
>
break before anything else. Keep it as a "weak link" or fuse. You are of
course assuming that the Warn is a better unit. The last set I bought, for
my Suburban, look pretty cheap. They have a trim piece, that fell off after
a few months. I was not impressed with this behavior. Not from a company
with a name like Warn.
Earle
"CJ5 on 35's" <kmoses@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1128631426.541698.103990@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> the reason i do not want to replace both with warn is that with an open
> front diff as long as one is weak that is what will break when i do
> something stupid again.
>
>
10-06-2005, 04:54 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 82 cj5 Hub
That makes sense to me. You already know that the hub you have now, will
break before anything else. Keep it as a "weak link" or fuse. You are of
course assuming that the Warn is a better unit. The last set I bought, for
my Suburban, look pretty cheap. They have a trim piece, that fell off after
a few months. I was not impressed with this behavior. Not from a company
with a name like Warn.
Earle
"CJ5 on 35's" <kmoses@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1128631426.541698.103990@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> the reason i do not want to replace both with warn is that with an open
> front diff as long as one is weak that is what will break when i do
> something stupid again.
>
>
break before anything else. Keep it as a "weak link" or fuse. You are of
course assuming that the Warn is a better unit. The last set I bought, for
my Suburban, look pretty cheap. They have a trim piece, that fell off after
a few months. I was not impressed with this behavior. Not from a company
with a name like Warn.
Earle
"CJ5 on 35's" <kmoses@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1128631426.541698.103990@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> the reason i do not want to replace both with warn is that with an open
> front diff as long as one is weak that is what will break when i do
> something stupid again.
>
>
10-06-2005, 05:20 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 82 cj5 Hub
That is what I am running, one warn and one stock with a spare.
You might be able to find just the lock for way cheaper. My warn cost
$40.00 or so because I didn't need the guts, just the locking cap. My
spares came from Greg here in the group, he sent me his old ones when he
upgraded. Thanks again Greg!
They do sound wild when they blow eh. I had just finished 75 miles of
bush roads on the spring thaw with alternating ice and mud only to have
the hub explode about 1/4 mile from the campsite I was aiming for in the
last stretch of 2' of snow.
This set had the bolt holes really well cleaned and filled with loctite
and they seem to be holding 'so far'.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
CJ5 on 35's wrote:
>
> i blew apart my left front hub last weekend at the lake pulling entire
> cedar trees out of the canal that runs behind the house. It made a
> really cool sound!
>
> anyway, i need just one hub. the stealership will sell me one for about
> $120 or i could buy the warns for $99. my question is this... can i run
> one stock on the right side and one warn on the left with a warn as a
> spare?
>
> This would accomplish 2 things, i would have a spare and my stock hub
> will still be my cheap weak link. no?
>
> Thanks guys!
> Kevin Moses
> _
> __| |_
> | ___ |
> O O
You might be able to find just the lock for way cheaper. My warn cost
$40.00 or so because I didn't need the guts, just the locking cap. My
spares came from Greg here in the group, he sent me his old ones when he
upgraded. Thanks again Greg!
They do sound wild when they blow eh. I had just finished 75 miles of
bush roads on the spring thaw with alternating ice and mud only to have
the hub explode about 1/4 mile from the campsite I was aiming for in the
last stretch of 2' of snow.
This set had the bolt holes really well cleaned and filled with loctite
and they seem to be holding 'so far'.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
CJ5 on 35's wrote:
>
> i blew apart my left front hub last weekend at the lake pulling entire
> cedar trees out of the canal that runs behind the house. It made a
> really cool sound!
>
> anyway, i need just one hub. the stealership will sell me one for about
> $120 or i could buy the warns for $99. my question is this... can i run
> one stock on the right side and one warn on the left with a warn as a
> spare?
>
> This would accomplish 2 things, i would have a spare and my stock hub
> will still be my cheap weak link. no?
>
> Thanks guys!
> Kevin Moses
> _
> __| |_
> | ___ |
> O O
10-06-2005, 05:20 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 82 cj5 Hub
That is what I am running, one warn and one stock with a spare.
You might be able to find just the lock for way cheaper. My warn cost
$40.00 or so because I didn't need the guts, just the locking cap. My
spares came from Greg here in the group, he sent me his old ones when he
upgraded. Thanks again Greg!
They do sound wild when they blow eh. I had just finished 75 miles of
bush roads on the spring thaw with alternating ice and mud only to have
the hub explode about 1/4 mile from the campsite I was aiming for in the
last stretch of 2' of snow.
This set had the bolt holes really well cleaned and filled with loctite
and they seem to be holding 'so far'.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
CJ5 on 35's wrote:
>
> i blew apart my left front hub last weekend at the lake pulling entire
> cedar trees out of the canal that runs behind the house. It made a
> really cool sound!
>
> anyway, i need just one hub. the stealership will sell me one for about
> $120 or i could buy the warns for $99. my question is this... can i run
> one stock on the right side and one warn on the left with a warn as a
> spare?
>
> This would accomplish 2 things, i would have a spare and my stock hub
> will still be my cheap weak link. no?
>
> Thanks guys!
> Kevin Moses
> _
> __| |_
> | ___ |
> O O
You might be able to find just the lock for way cheaper. My warn cost
$40.00 or so because I didn't need the guts, just the locking cap. My
spares came from Greg here in the group, he sent me his old ones when he
upgraded. Thanks again Greg!
They do sound wild when they blow eh. I had just finished 75 miles of
bush roads on the spring thaw with alternating ice and mud only to have
the hub explode about 1/4 mile from the campsite I was aiming for in the
last stretch of 2' of snow.
This set had the bolt holes really well cleaned and filled with loctite
and they seem to be holding 'so far'.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
CJ5 on 35's wrote:
>
> i blew apart my left front hub last weekend at the lake pulling entire
> cedar trees out of the canal that runs behind the house. It made a
> really cool sound!
>
> anyway, i need just one hub. the stealership will sell me one for about
> $120 or i could buy the warns for $99. my question is this... can i run
> one stock on the right side and one warn on the left with a warn as a
> spare?
>
> This would accomplish 2 things, i would have a spare and my stock hub
> will still be my cheap weak link. no?
>
> Thanks guys!
> Kevin Moses
> _
> __| |_
> | ___ |
> O O
10-06-2005, 05:20 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 82 cj5 Hub
That is what I am running, one warn and one stock with a spare.
You might be able to find just the lock for way cheaper. My warn cost
$40.00 or so because I didn't need the guts, just the locking cap. My
spares came from Greg here in the group, he sent me his old ones when he
upgraded. Thanks again Greg!
They do sound wild when they blow eh. I had just finished 75 miles of
bush roads on the spring thaw with alternating ice and mud only to have
the hub explode about 1/4 mile from the campsite I was aiming for in the
last stretch of 2' of snow.
This set had the bolt holes really well cleaned and filled with loctite
and they seem to be holding 'so far'.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
CJ5 on 35's wrote:
>
> i blew apart my left front hub last weekend at the lake pulling entire
> cedar trees out of the canal that runs behind the house. It made a
> really cool sound!
>
> anyway, i need just one hub. the stealership will sell me one for about
> $120 or i could buy the warns for $99. my question is this... can i run
> one stock on the right side and one warn on the left with a warn as a
> spare?
>
> This would accomplish 2 things, i would have a spare and my stock hub
> will still be my cheap weak link. no?
>
> Thanks guys!
> Kevin Moses
> _
> __| |_
> | ___ |
> O O
You might be able to find just the lock for way cheaper. My warn cost
$40.00 or so because I didn't need the guts, just the locking cap. My
spares came from Greg here in the group, he sent me his old ones when he
upgraded. Thanks again Greg!
They do sound wild when they blow eh. I had just finished 75 miles of
bush roads on the spring thaw with alternating ice and mud only to have
the hub explode about 1/4 mile from the campsite I was aiming for in the
last stretch of 2' of snow.
This set had the bolt holes really well cleaned and filled with loctite
and they seem to be holding 'so far'.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
CJ5 on 35's wrote:
>
> i blew apart my left front hub last weekend at the lake pulling entire
> cedar trees out of the canal that runs behind the house. It made a
> really cool sound!
>
> anyway, i need just one hub. the stealership will sell me one for about
> $120 or i could buy the warns for $99. my question is this... can i run
> one stock on the right side and one warn on the left with a warn as a
> spare?
>
> This would accomplish 2 things, i would have a spare and my stock hub
> will still be my cheap weak link. no?
>
> Thanks guys!
> Kevin Moses
> _
> __| |_
> | ___ |
> O O
10-07-2005, 02:16 PM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 82 cj5 Hub
Your reasoning is flawed.
I have the SuperWinch hubs (I really like them, by the way) and a Detroit EZ
Locker in the front, and I mainly do rock crawling. You want the weak link
to be a drive shaft UJoint or something like that, which is outside of the
axle. Stuff that is outside the axle is much easier to work on than stuff
that is inside.
"CJ5 on 35's" <kmoses@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1128631426.541698.103990@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> the reason i do not want to replace both with warn is that with an open
> front diff as long as one is weak that is what will break when i do
> something stupid again.
>
I have the SuperWinch hubs (I really like them, by the way) and a Detroit EZ
Locker in the front, and I mainly do rock crawling. You want the weak link
to be a drive shaft UJoint or something like that, which is outside of the
axle. Stuff that is outside the axle is much easier to work on than stuff
that is inside.
"CJ5 on 35's" <kmoses@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1128631426.541698.103990@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> the reason i do not want to replace both with warn is that with an open
> front diff as long as one is weak that is what will break when i do
> something stupid again.
>
10-07-2005, 02:16 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 82 cj5 Hub
Your reasoning is flawed.
I have the SuperWinch hubs (I really like them, by the way) and a Detroit EZ
Locker in the front, and I mainly do rock crawling. You want the weak link
to be a drive shaft UJoint or something like that, which is outside of the
axle. Stuff that is outside the axle is much easier to work on than stuff
that is inside.
"CJ5 on 35's" <kmoses@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1128631426.541698.103990@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> the reason i do not want to replace both with warn is that with an open
> front diff as long as one is weak that is what will break when i do
> something stupid again.
>
I have the SuperWinch hubs (I really like them, by the way) and a Detroit EZ
Locker in the front, and I mainly do rock crawling. You want the weak link
to be a drive shaft UJoint or something like that, which is outside of the
axle. Stuff that is outside the axle is much easier to work on than stuff
that is inside.
"CJ5 on 35's" <kmoses@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1128631426.541698.103990@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> the reason i do not want to replace both with warn is that with an open
> front diff as long as one is weak that is what will break when i do
> something stupid again.
>
10-07-2005, 02:16 PM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 82 cj5 Hub
Your reasoning is flawed.
I have the SuperWinch hubs (I really like them, by the way) and a Detroit EZ
Locker in the front, and I mainly do rock crawling. You want the weak link
to be a drive shaft UJoint or something like that, which is outside of the
axle. Stuff that is outside the axle is much easier to work on than stuff
that is inside.
"CJ5 on 35's" <kmoses@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1128631426.541698.103990@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> the reason i do not want to replace both with warn is that with an open
> front diff as long as one is weak that is what will break when i do
> something stupid again.
>
I have the SuperWinch hubs (I really like them, by the way) and a Detroit EZ
Locker in the front, and I mainly do rock crawling. You want the weak link
to be a drive shaft UJoint or something like that, which is outside of the
axle. Stuff that is outside the axle is much easier to work on than stuff
that is inside.
"CJ5 on 35's" <kmoses@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1128631426.541698.103990@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> the reason i do not want to replace both with warn is that with an open
> front diff as long as one is weak that is what will break when i do
> something stupid again.
>
10-07-2005, 07:37 PM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 82 cj5 Hub
On a CJ, the locking hub changes out really easily. Don't even need to
remove the tire now on mine. I would much rather blow up another of
them than a driveshaft or axle u-joint. I am running one and one like
he is thinking.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> Your reasoning is flawed.
>
> I have the SuperWinch hubs (I really like them, by the way) and a Detroit EZ
> Locker in the front, and I mainly do rock crawling. You want the weak link
> to be a drive shaft UJoint or something like that, which is outside of the
> axle. Stuff that is outside the axle is much easier to work on than stuff
> that is inside.
>
> "CJ5 on 35's" <kmoses@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1128631426.541698.103990@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> > the reason i do not want to replace both with warn is that with an open
> > front diff as long as one is weak that is what will break when i do
> > something stupid again.
> >
remove the tire now on mine. I would much rather blow up another of
them than a driveshaft or axle u-joint. I am running one and one like
he is thinking.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> Your reasoning is flawed.
>
> I have the SuperWinch hubs (I really like them, by the way) and a Detroit EZ
> Locker in the front, and I mainly do rock crawling. You want the weak link
> to be a drive shaft UJoint or something like that, which is outside of the
> axle. Stuff that is outside the axle is much easier to work on than stuff
> that is inside.
>
> "CJ5 on 35's" <kmoses@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1128631426.541698.103990@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> > the reason i do not want to replace both with warn is that with an open
> > front diff as long as one is weak that is what will break when i do
> > something stupid again.
> >
10-07-2005, 07:37 PM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 82 cj5 Hub
On a CJ, the locking hub changes out really easily. Don't even need to
remove the tire now on mine. I would much rather blow up another of
them than a driveshaft or axle u-joint. I am running one and one like
he is thinking.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> Your reasoning is flawed.
>
> I have the SuperWinch hubs (I really like them, by the way) and a Detroit EZ
> Locker in the front, and I mainly do rock crawling. You want the weak link
> to be a drive shaft UJoint or something like that, which is outside of the
> axle. Stuff that is outside the axle is much easier to work on than stuff
> that is inside.
>
> "CJ5 on 35's" <kmoses@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1128631426.541698.103990@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> > the reason i do not want to replace both with warn is that with an open
> > front diff as long as one is weak that is what will break when i do
> > something stupid again.
> >
remove the tire now on mine. I would much rather blow up another of
them than a driveshaft or axle u-joint. I am running one and one like
he is thinking.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Jeff Strickland wrote:
>
> Your reasoning is flawed.
>
> I have the SuperWinch hubs (I really like them, by the way) and a Detroit EZ
> Locker in the front, and I mainly do rock crawling. You want the weak link
> to be a drive shaft UJoint or something like that, which is outside of the
> axle. Stuff that is outside the axle is much easier to work on than stuff
> that is inside.
>
> "CJ5 on 35's" <kmoses@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1128631426.541698.103990@g47g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> > the reason i do not want to replace both with warn is that with an open
> > front diff as long as one is weak that is what will break when i do
> > something stupid again.
> >