Mike Romain

The only recall showing on the NHSTA site for a 77 CJ5 is for a bad seal
in the 3 speed tranny allowing it to share fluid with the T-case which
will lead to total and sudden transmission failure.

And someone was trying to convince me a while ago that they do share
fluids... Yup right....

I would sure be running a meter across any of those plugs 'long' before
I started hard wiring any parts in. Just put it on Beep or ohms and pin
the wires on either side looking for continuity.

Especially seeing as one of the parts is not likely working.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Moggy2cat wrote:
>
> *****, i am repeating the re-call i got from amc, as best as i can from
> memory...cut out the connectors, solder, tape for water proofing...go
> jeeping...Gene

Lee Ayrton

That comes as a surprise to me, as the replacement ignition module I
bought last fall for my `79 CJ-5 came with moulded connectors attached.


On Sun, 11 Apr 2004, Moggy2cat wrote:

> *****, i am repeating the re-call i got from amc, as best as i can from
> memory...cut out the connectors, solder, tape for water proofing...go
> jeeping...Gene
>

Lee Ayrton

That comes as a surprise to me, as the replacement ignition module I
bought last fall for my `79 CJ-5 came with moulded connectors attached.


On Sun, 11 Apr 2004, Moggy2cat wrote:

> *****, i am repeating the re-call i got from amc, as best as i can from
> memory...cut out the connectors, solder, tape for water proofing...go
> jeeping...Gene
>

Lee Ayrton

That comes as a surprise to me, as the replacement ignition module I
bought last fall for my `79 CJ-5 came with moulded connectors attached.


On Sun, 11 Apr 2004, Moggy2cat wrote:

> *****, i am repeating the re-call i got from amc, as best as i can from
> memory...cut out the connectors, solder, tape for water proofing...go
> jeeping...Gene
>

Lee Ayrton

That comes as a surprise to me, as the replacement ignition module I
bought last fall for my `79 CJ-5 came with moulded connectors attached.


On Sun, 11 Apr 2004, Moggy2cat wrote:

> *****, i am repeating the re-call i got from amc, as best as i can from
> memory...cut out the connectors, solder, tape for water proofing...go
> jeeping...Gene
>

Lee Ayrton

A couple of quick checks:

Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with the
engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
tank?" check.

Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on, but
pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If you
break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and can
be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.

Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get one
of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real needle
meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital read-out.
The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking from
the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the starter
relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced voltage
(something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.

If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the connection
at the starter relay.

If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the keyswitch
in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and the
ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive link
(in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels loose
and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector block
where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself, and,
least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.

During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition module
clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces old-tech
points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
connectors.



On Sat, 10 Apr 2004, Politzanian wrote:

> Maybe someone here can help me figure this out. I have a 1977 CJ5
> straight-six jeep with electronic ignition and I'm getting no spark
> from the coil. I'm guessing it's the electronics module, but I'd like
> to try to confirm this before buying a new one.
>
> It was running before and suddenly wouldn't start. I've replaced the
> distributor cap, the battery, and the plugs. And I know it's getting
> gas.
>
> If anyone has any ideas on how to test the module, or other ways I
> might narrow down the cause, I'd be most appreciative.
>
> Thanks a lot,
>
> *****
>

Lee Ayrton

A couple of quick checks:

Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with the
engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
tank?" check.

Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on, but
pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If you
break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and can
be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.

Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get one
of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real needle
meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital read-out.
The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking from
the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the starter
relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced voltage
(something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.

If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the connection
at the starter relay.

If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the keyswitch
in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and the
ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive link
(in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels loose
and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector block
where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself, and,
least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.

During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition module
clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces old-tech
points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
connectors.



On Sat, 10 Apr 2004, Politzanian wrote:

> Maybe someone here can help me figure this out. I have a 1977 CJ5
> straight-six jeep with electronic ignition and I'm getting no spark
> from the coil. I'm guessing it's the electronics module, but I'd like
> to try to confirm this before buying a new one.
>
> It was running before and suddenly wouldn't start. I've replaced the
> distributor cap, the battery, and the plugs. And I know it's getting
> gas.
>
> If anyone has any ideas on how to test the module, or other ways I
> might narrow down the cause, I'd be most appreciative.
>
> Thanks a lot,
>
> *****
>

Lee Ayrton

A couple of quick checks:

Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with the
engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
tank?" check.

Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on, but
pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If you
break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and can
be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.

Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get one
of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real needle
meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital read-out.
The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking from
the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the starter
relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced voltage
(something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.

If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the connection
at the starter relay.

If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the keyswitch
in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and the
ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive link
(in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels loose
and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector block
where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself, and,
least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.

During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition module
clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces old-tech
points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
connectors.



On Sat, 10 Apr 2004, Politzanian wrote:

> Maybe someone here can help me figure this out. I have a 1977 CJ5
> straight-six jeep with electronic ignition and I'm getting no spark
> from the coil. I'm guessing it's the electronics module, but I'd like
> to try to confirm this before buying a new one.
>
> It was running before and suddenly wouldn't start. I've replaced the
> distributor cap, the battery, and the plugs. And I know it's getting
> gas.
>
> If anyone has any ideas on how to test the module, or other ways I
> might narrow down the cause, I'd be most appreciative.
>
> Thanks a lot,
>
> *****
>

Lee Ayrton

A couple of quick checks:

Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with the
engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
tank?" check.

Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on, but
pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If you
break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and can
be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.

Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get one
of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real needle
meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital read-out.
The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking from
the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the starter
relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced voltage
(something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.

If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the connection
at the starter relay.

If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the keyswitch
in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and the
ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive link
(in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels loose
and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector block
where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself, and,
least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.

During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition module
clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces old-tech
points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
connectors.



On Sat, 10 Apr 2004, Politzanian wrote:

> Maybe someone here can help me figure this out. I have a 1977 CJ5
> straight-six jeep with electronic ignition and I'm getting no spark
> from the coil. I'm guessing it's the electronics module, but I'd like
> to try to confirm this before buying a new one.
>
> It was running before and suddenly wouldn't start. I've replaced the
> distributor cap, the battery, and the plugs. And I know it's getting
> gas.
>
> If anyone has any ideas on how to test the module, or other ways I
> might narrow down the cause, I'd be most appreciative.
>
> Thanks a lot,
>
> *****
>

Politzanian

Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message news:<Pine.NEB.4.58.0404111142210.16761@panix1.pan ix.com>...
> A couple of quick checks:
>
> Pull the distributor cap and make sure that the shaft is turning with the
> engine. It probably is, but this is a quick, zero-cost "gas in the
> tank?" check.
>
> Pull the connector off the coil and check for corrosion. It snaps on, but
> pull it *carefully*, the plastic gets brittle with heat and time. If you
> break the latches you can get another, it is a standard Ford part and can
> be found in the "Help!" racks in larger stores.
>
> Check the voltage at the coil. If you don't have a meter you can get one
> of those pocket meters at Radio Shack for about 10 bucks -- a real needle
> meter will be more useful to you for part of this than a digital read-out.
> The [+] side of the coil is fed full battery power during cranking from
> the "I" terminal (one of the two smaller posts on the side) on the starter
> relay, with the key switch in the "run" position it is fed reduced voltage
> (something like 8 volts or so) through a resistive link (a section of
> resistive wire loomed into the wiring harness) for OEM harnesses or a
> ceramic ballast resistor for aftermarket harnesses.
>
> If you aren't seeing battery voltage during cranking check the connection
> at the starter relay.
>
> If you aren't seeing something like 8 volts at the coil with the keyswitch
> in the "on" position there's a problem someplace between the coil and the
> ignition switch. Places to check: The connections to the resistive link
> (in the harness someplace along the firewall, the insulation feels loose
> and rubbery when compared to the usual primary wire), the connector block
> where the harness enters the steering column, the keyswitch itself, and,
> least likely, the connections at the firewall bulkhead connector.
>
> During cranking the meter should jump around (here's where the needle
> meter is handy) for each power stroke, this is because the ignition module
> clamps the line to ground and then opens it to fire the coil. If it
> doesn't the problem is either the Hall-Effect sensor (replaces old-tech
> points) in the distributor, it's connector, the ignition module or its
> connectors.
>

Boy, it looks like I came to the right place for advice on this. So
many helpful suggestions! Thanks to everyone who has responded.

Lee and Mike, I have actually done most of the things you've mentioned
(with a needle meter) and it's looking more and more like it's the
module. But I will double check the solenoid connections and voltages,
etc. Gene's idea of getting rid of the connectors to the ignition
module sounds promising because I recall now one time when it wouldn't
start, and just by wiggling those wires, it did start.

Fortunately, this is my "working out back" jeep and not my everyday
transportation, so I've got time to mess around with with it.

I'll report back here to let you guys know how it turned out.

Thanks again for all your help,

*****