Re: 76 CJ5
 

CJs are less comfortable and much more work to drive than late model
Jeeps. There's no cruising in a CJ, you're *driving* it all the time.
They are also quite a lot more fun.

Carl wrote:
> I'm looking at a 76 CJ5 for real cheap. It's got the AMC 304. It has some
> new parts and apparently runs well. The carb has been 'upgraded' to a holley
> 2bbl. It will need a starter, exhaust, and a wiring harness. The wiring
> harness is the big ? for me, since I don't know how bad it is.
>
> How can I tell if the t-case is a D300, 20, or 18?
> Did all v-8 CJ's get the AMC20?.
> I know the AMC 304 sucks as far as power/performance, but is it pretty
> reliable? How user serviceable is it?
>
> My previous Jeeps were:
>
> 89 YJ, SOA on 33's. 4cyl, 5spd (rip)
> 99 TJ, stock on 31's. 6cyl, 5spd(rip)
> 89 XJ 2" bb on 30's 6cyl, 5spd(mom's daily driver now!)
> 91 XJ 3.5" RE on 31's, 6cyl AT(rip)
>
> I'm on the hunt for a new Jeep, and am looking at CJ's, YJ's and XJ's. I
> like the CJ's, especially the t-case and rear.
>
> I really don't know a lot about CJs, as they are a much different animal
> than YJ-XJ-ZJ-TJ-MJ.
>
> I like XJ's because they are comfortable, cheap, and pretty tough. I also
> know a decent amount about 'em.
>
> YJ's are the same as XJ's for my likes, except they are not cheap.
>
> Am I getting in over my head here with an old CJ?
>
> Anyone know anyone selling an old XJ-YJ-CJ?
>
> Any help would be great.
>
> Carl
>
>
>
>


--

This website supports what I thought would be true, So It Must Be
(tm).” David Winsemius willingly creates an anti-motto at room
temperature in AFU Labs.

Re: 76 CJ5
 

CJs are less comfortable and much more work to drive than late model
Jeeps. There's no cruising in a CJ, you're *driving* it all the time.
They are also quite a lot more fun.

Carl wrote:
> I'm looking at a 76 CJ5 for real cheap. It's got the AMC 304. It has some
> new parts and apparently runs well. The carb has been 'upgraded' to a holley
> 2bbl. It will need a starter, exhaust, and a wiring harness. The wiring
> harness is the big ? for me, since I don't know how bad it is.
>
> How can I tell if the t-case is a D300, 20, or 18?
> Did all v-8 CJ's get the AMC20?.
> I know the AMC 304 sucks as far as power/performance, but is it pretty
> reliable? How user serviceable is it?
>
> My previous Jeeps were:
>
> 89 YJ, SOA on 33's. 4cyl, 5spd (rip)
> 99 TJ, stock on 31's. 6cyl, 5spd(rip)
> 89 XJ 2" bb on 30's 6cyl, 5spd(mom's daily driver now!)
> 91 XJ 3.5" RE on 31's, 6cyl AT(rip)
>
> I'm on the hunt for a new Jeep, and am looking at CJ's, YJ's and XJ's. I
> like the CJ's, especially the t-case and rear.
>
> I really don't know a lot about CJs, as they are a much different animal
> than YJ-XJ-ZJ-TJ-MJ.
>
> I like XJ's because they are comfortable, cheap, and pretty tough. I also
> know a decent amount about 'em.
>
> YJ's are the same as XJ's for my likes, except they are not cheap.
>
> Am I getting in over my head here with an old CJ?
>
> Anyone know anyone selling an old XJ-YJ-CJ?
>
> Any help would be great.
>
> Carl
>
>
>
>


--

This website supports what I thought would be true, So It Must Be
(tm).” David Winsemius willingly creates an anti-motto at room
temperature in AFU Labs.

Re: 76 CJ5
 

CJs are less comfortable and much more work to drive than late model
Jeeps. There's no cruising in a CJ, you're *driving* it all the time.
They are also quite a lot more fun.

Carl wrote:
> I'm looking at a 76 CJ5 for real cheap. It's got the AMC 304. It has some
> new parts and apparently runs well. The carb has been 'upgraded' to a holley
> 2bbl. It will need a starter, exhaust, and a wiring harness. The wiring
> harness is the big ? for me, since I don't know how bad it is.
>
> How can I tell if the t-case is a D300, 20, or 18?
> Did all v-8 CJ's get the AMC20?.
> I know the AMC 304 sucks as far as power/performance, but is it pretty
> reliable? How user serviceable is it?
>
> My previous Jeeps were:
>
> 89 YJ, SOA on 33's. 4cyl, 5spd (rip)
> 99 TJ, stock on 31's. 6cyl, 5spd(rip)
> 89 XJ 2" bb on 30's 6cyl, 5spd(mom's daily driver now!)
> 91 XJ 3.5" RE on 31's, 6cyl AT(rip)
>
> I'm on the hunt for a new Jeep, and am looking at CJ's, YJ's and XJ's. I
> like the CJ's, especially the t-case and rear.
>
> I really don't know a lot about CJs, as they are a much different animal
> than YJ-XJ-ZJ-TJ-MJ.
>
> I like XJ's because they are comfortable, cheap, and pretty tough. I also
> know a decent amount about 'em.
>
> YJ's are the same as XJ's for my likes, except they are not cheap.
>
> Am I getting in over my head here with an old CJ?
>
> Anyone know anyone selling an old XJ-YJ-CJ?
>
> Any help would be great.
>
> Carl
>
>
>
>


--

This website supports what I thought would be true, So It Must Be
(tm).” David Winsemius willingly creates an anti-motto at room
temperature in AFU Labs.

Re: 76 CJ5
 

Thanks for all the advice/tips, guys.

Carl

"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@REMOVE_ME.panix.com> wrote in message
news:e9ambn$g6r$1@reader2.panix.com...
> The Painless harness that I put into my 1979 CJ5 resto was *mostly*
> painless. The harnesses join at the firewall like the factory ones did,
> and all the ends are tagged and labled. The bugs were in the alternator
> section -- since they make a "universal" harness to cover a wide range of
> model years and because Jeep changed suppliers so often there's a bit of
> hand work and puzzling to be done around the alternator. The best advice
> I can give is to read the entire Painless manual before starting anything,
> especially the Erratum section at the back because there were errors in
> the body of the manual.
>
> Oh, and `76 was the first year for the fully boxed frame. Be sure you
> look carefully at the tail ends of the frame rails -- to see if they are
> still there.
>
> Carl wrote:
>> Cool on the D300. He's asking $1500 for this Jeep, but I still need to
>> take a look at it. How hard is it to change out the wiring harness with a
>> new one from painless?
>>
>> I have heard that if the AMC20's 2-piece shafts are not properly
>> re-installed after removal, they are weak. How does this happen? What is
>> generally the cost of a 1-piece axle conversion? Are the shafts 31
>> spline? Are any lunchbox lockers availible for the 20?
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:OoOdnZJ3XvzdLivZnZ2dnUVZ_rydnZ2d@ez2.net...
>>
>>>"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>news:Jc-dnehLSal-GSvZnZ2dnUVZ_rOdnZ2d@comcast.com...
>>>
>>>>I'm looking at a 76 CJ5 for real cheap. It's got the AMC 304. It has
>>>>some new parts and apparently runs well. The carb has been 'upgraded' to
>>>>a holley 2bbl. It will need a starter, exhaust, and a wiring harness.
>>>>The wiring harness is the big ? for me, since I don't know how bad it
>>>>is.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>How can I tell if the t-case is a D300, 20, or 18?
>>>
>>>It's a D300 in 1976.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Did all v-8 CJ's get the AMC20?.
>>>
>>>The AMC20 is the rear end, and it could be an AMC20 or a Dana 44 in that
>>>truck.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
> This website supports what I thought would be true, So It Must Be
> (tm).” David Winsemius willingly creates an anti-motto at room
> temperature in AFU Labs.

Re: 76 CJ5
 

Thanks for all the advice/tips, guys.

Carl

"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@REMOVE_ME.panix.com> wrote in message
news:e9ambn$g6r$1@reader2.panix.com...
> The Painless harness that I put into my 1979 CJ5 resto was *mostly*
> painless. The harnesses join at the firewall like the factory ones did,
> and all the ends are tagged and labled. The bugs were in the alternator
> section -- since they make a "universal" harness to cover a wide range of
> model years and because Jeep changed suppliers so often there's a bit of
> hand work and puzzling to be done around the alternator. The best advice
> I can give is to read the entire Painless manual before starting anything,
> especially the Erratum section at the back because there were errors in
> the body of the manual.
>
> Oh, and `76 was the first year for the fully boxed frame. Be sure you
> look carefully at the tail ends of the frame rails -- to see if they are
> still there.
>
> Carl wrote:
>> Cool on the D300. He's asking $1500 for this Jeep, but I still need to
>> take a look at it. How hard is it to change out the wiring harness with a
>> new one from painless?
>>
>> I have heard that if the AMC20's 2-piece shafts are not properly
>> re-installed after removal, they are weak. How does this happen? What is
>> generally the cost of a 1-piece axle conversion? Are the shafts 31
>> spline? Are any lunchbox lockers availible for the 20?
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:OoOdnZJ3XvzdLivZnZ2dnUVZ_rydnZ2d@ez2.net...
>>
>>>"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>news:Jc-dnehLSal-GSvZnZ2dnUVZ_rOdnZ2d@comcast.com...
>>>
>>>>I'm looking at a 76 CJ5 for real cheap. It's got the AMC 304. It has
>>>>some new parts and apparently runs well. The carb has been 'upgraded' to
>>>>a holley 2bbl. It will need a starter, exhaust, and a wiring harness.
>>>>The wiring harness is the big ? for me, since I don't know how bad it
>>>>is.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>How can I tell if the t-case is a D300, 20, or 18?
>>>
>>>It's a D300 in 1976.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Did all v-8 CJ's get the AMC20?.
>>>
>>>The AMC20 is the rear end, and it could be an AMC20 or a Dana 44 in that
>>>truck.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
> This website supports what I thought would be true, So It Must Be
> (tm).” David Winsemius willingly creates an anti-motto at room
> temperature in AFU Labs.

Re: 76 CJ5
 

Thanks for all the advice/tips, guys.

Carl

"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@REMOVE_ME.panix.com> wrote in message
news:e9ambn$g6r$1@reader2.panix.com...
> The Painless harness that I put into my 1979 CJ5 resto was *mostly*
> painless. The harnesses join at the firewall like the factory ones did,
> and all the ends are tagged and labled. The bugs were in the alternator
> section -- since they make a "universal" harness to cover a wide range of
> model years and because Jeep changed suppliers so often there's a bit of
> hand work and puzzling to be done around the alternator. The best advice
> I can give is to read the entire Painless manual before starting anything,
> especially the Erratum section at the back because there were errors in
> the body of the manual.
>
> Oh, and `76 was the first year for the fully boxed frame. Be sure you
> look carefully at the tail ends of the frame rails -- to see if they are
> still there.
>
> Carl wrote:
>> Cool on the D300. He's asking $1500 for this Jeep, but I still need to
>> take a look at it. How hard is it to change out the wiring harness with a
>> new one from painless?
>>
>> I have heard that if the AMC20's 2-piece shafts are not properly
>> re-installed after removal, they are weak. How does this happen? What is
>> generally the cost of a 1-piece axle conversion? Are the shafts 31
>> spline? Are any lunchbox lockers availible for the 20?
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "Jeff Strickland" <crwlr@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:OoOdnZJ3XvzdLivZnZ2dnUVZ_rydnZ2d@ez2.net...
>>
>>>"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
>>>news:Jc-dnehLSal-GSvZnZ2dnUVZ_rOdnZ2d@comcast.com...
>>>
>>>>I'm looking at a 76 CJ5 for real cheap. It's got the AMC 304. It has
>>>>some new parts and apparently runs well. The carb has been 'upgraded' to
>>>>a holley 2bbl. It will need a starter, exhaust, and a wiring harness.
>>>>The wiring harness is the big ? for me, since I don't know how bad it
>>>>is.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>How can I tell if the t-case is a D300, 20, or 18?
>>>
>>>It's a D300 in 1976.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Did all v-8 CJ's get the AMC20?.
>>>
>>>The AMC20 is the rear end, and it could be an AMC20 or a Dana 44 in that
>>>truck.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
> This website supports what I thought would be true, So It Must Be
> (tm).” David Winsemius willingly creates an anti-motto at room
> temperature in AFU Labs.