The Javelin ran over four hundred horsepower in front of your axle:
http://www.lhmopars.com/MOPAR_Ads/19...avelin_ad.html
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Drink wrote:
>
> Okay, first things first: Don't kill me for asking:)
> Now... I want to do an axle conversion and need some advice on what to
> swap (Dana 30 frt/AMC 20 Rr, 11" drums). I've done a lot of searching and
> scrounging but can't find the right axles. A friend in a tranny shop
> recommends 10/12 bolt Chevy's. Another guy want $800 for Dana 44's from a
> 79 Cherokee. Another guy who customs Jeeps wants to unload a 14 bolt rear
> and 44 front for $600 (and $1500 in labor).
> I've read everything from a 8.8 Ford rear to how Scout axles have
> unacceptable drawbacks (for me at least). I either can't find the silver
> bullet website or am overwhelmed with a million "Hey! I did this and don't
> like this about it" hits.
> Can you guys give me some solid advice on axle swaps? I don't mind if
> it's wide since that'll help handling. Don't care if it's spring over or
> under either since I live in the flatlands. I'd really like better braking,
> though. I just don't want to go straight to a machinist off the bat.
> P.S. tire size and gearing are a thought as well since I have a NV4500;
> granny 1st is unuseably low right now and wiiiide gear ratio makes it drive
> like a dump truck:)
> Regards,
> Jim

 

The Javelin ran over four hundred horsepower in front of your axle:
http://www.lhmopars.com/MOPAR_Ads/19...avelin_ad.html
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Drink wrote:
>
> Okay, first things first: Don't kill me for asking:)
> Now... I want to do an axle conversion and need some advice on what to
> swap (Dana 30 frt/AMC 20 Rr, 11" drums). I've done a lot of searching and
> scrounging but can't find the right axles. A friend in a tranny shop
> recommends 10/12 bolt Chevy's. Another guy want $800 for Dana 44's from a
> 79 Cherokee. Another guy who customs Jeeps wants to unload a 14 bolt rear
> and 44 front for $600 (and $1500 in labor).
> I've read everything from a 8.8 Ford rear to how Scout axles have
> unacceptable drawbacks (for me at least). I either can't find the silver
> bullet website or am overwhelmed with a million "Hey! I did this and don't
> like this about it" hits.
> Can you guys give me some solid advice on axle swaps? I don't mind if
> it's wide since that'll help handling. Don't care if it's spring over or
> under either since I live in the flatlands. I'd really like better braking,
> though. I just don't want to go straight to a machinist off the bat.
> P.S. tire size and gearing are a thought as well since I have a NV4500;
> granny 1st is unuseably low right now and wiiiide gear ratio makes it drive
> like a dump truck:)
> Regards,
> Jim

 

I guess it's back to the 8.8 rear then, with factory disc brakes. That will
make a big difference in braking. For a wider stance, get less backspacing.
Check out http://photobucket.com/albums/d96/carlsaiyed/ . Some pics of my
old wrangler are on there. The backspacing I had was 3.25", and it was VERY
stable on and off road. Also, the since the tires stick out, they protect
the body, throw lots of mud, and look pretty cool.

Is something wrong with your D30?

Carl


"Drink" <drink@gnt.net> wrote in message
news:dovdtm$f3a$1@news.utelfla.com...
> Braking and handling are pretty much the desired effect (wider w/better
> brakes). The AMC20's built stout and I should be happy with as much as
> I've put into it. Still, I'm not and the 4.10's are just too much. The
> front Dana30's are shot enough to be swapped and that's where it all
> started. If I went to larger tires, I'd have to lift more than the
> current 4" and the body roll's a bit much for a daily driver as it is.
> Jim
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:lMCdnePIhKLrqi7eRVn-uQ@comcast.com...
>> It's not often that a Jeeper wants to re-gear to a numerically lower
>> (higher) ratio, but I think you can gear the D30 to 3.73, which is what
>> (I think) a lot of 8.8's have. You can also look for an XJ dana 44, which
>> should have the 3.73's and if the axle shaft's break, the wheels will
>> stay on.
>>
>> Out of curiousity, why do you need to upgrade the AMC 20? I assume is an
>> issue of reliability / breakage?
>>
>> Carl
>
>

 

I guess it's back to the 8.8 rear then, with factory disc brakes. That will
make a big difference in braking. For a wider stance, get less backspacing.
Check out http://photobucket.com/albums/d96/carlsaiyed/ . Some pics of my
old wrangler are on there. The backspacing I had was 3.25", and it was VERY
stable on and off road. Also, the since the tires stick out, they protect
the body, throw lots of mud, and look pretty cool.

Is something wrong with your D30?

Carl


"Drink" <drink@gnt.net> wrote in message
news:dovdtm$f3a$1@news.utelfla.com...
> Braking and handling are pretty much the desired effect (wider w/better
> brakes). The AMC20's built stout and I should be happy with as much as
> I've put into it. Still, I'm not and the 4.10's are just too much. The
> front Dana30's are shot enough to be swapped and that's where it all
> started. If I went to larger tires, I'd have to lift more than the
> current 4" and the body roll's a bit much for a daily driver as it is.
> Jim
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:lMCdnePIhKLrqi7eRVn-uQ@comcast.com...
>> It's not often that a Jeeper wants to re-gear to a numerically lower
>> (higher) ratio, but I think you can gear the D30 to 3.73, which is what
>> (I think) a lot of 8.8's have. You can also look for an XJ dana 44, which
>> should have the 3.73's and if the axle shaft's break, the wheels will
>> stay on.
>>
>> Out of curiousity, why do you need to upgrade the AMC 20? I assume is an
>> issue of reliability / breakage?
>>
>> Carl
>
>

 

I guess it's back to the 8.8 rear then, with factory disc brakes. That will
make a big difference in braking. For a wider stance, get less backspacing.
Check out http://photobucket.com/albums/d96/carlsaiyed/ . Some pics of my
old wrangler are on there. The backspacing I had was 3.25", and it was VERY
stable on and off road. Also, the since the tires stick out, they protect
the body, throw lots of mud, and look pretty cool.

Is something wrong with your D30?

Carl


"Drink" <drink@gnt.net> wrote in message
news:dovdtm$f3a$1@news.utelfla.com...
> Braking and handling are pretty much the desired effect (wider w/better
> brakes). The AMC20's built stout and I should be happy with as much as
> I've put into it. Still, I'm not and the 4.10's are just too much. The
> front Dana30's are shot enough to be swapped and that's where it all
> started. If I went to larger tires, I'd have to lift more than the
> current 4" and the body roll's a bit much for a daily driver as it is.
> Jim
>
> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:lMCdnePIhKLrqi7eRVn-uQ@comcast.com...
>> It's not often that a Jeeper wants to re-gear to a numerically lower
>> (higher) ratio, but I think you can gear the D30 to 3.73, which is what
>> (I think) a lot of 8.8's have. You can also look for an XJ dana 44, which
>> should have the 3.73's and if the axle shaft's break, the wheels will
>> stay on.
>>
>> Out of curiousity, why do you need to upgrade the AMC 20? I assume is an
>> issue of reliability / breakage?
>>
>> Carl
>
>

 

8.8" comes with 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern if I am not mistaken, he currently
has 5 on 5.5. So it will have to be swapped / redrilled if you want to have
matching rims and carry only one spare tire.

What is the problem with doing the D44 scout axles? The rear is pretty much
a direct bolt in, you can do that now and be done with a phase 1. I see
rear scout axles all the time local for $100 - $150. The front swap is
pretty easy too, you just need to adjust the caster on them. Fronts go for
$200ish, add some labor for the adjustment, and you are out of this pretty
cheap.


"Carl" <carlsaiyed@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:66WdnYdn6vqVqS7eRVn-jg@comcast.com...
>I would say get an 8.8" rear w/disc brakes and lock it up. It should come
>with 3.55, 3.73, or 4.10 gears.The stock D30 will be fine unlocked, and
>with a locker in the back, you'll do really well. I think that setup with
>4.10 or 4.56 gears would be optimal. Usually 33's couple with 4.56's, but
>withthe 350 and your transmission I don't know. What gears do you have now?
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Drink" <drink@gnt.net> wrote in message
> news:dovbq1$dhd$1@news.utelfla.com...
>>1 Pockets not very deep at the moment but time heals all wounds. Arms are
>>kinda lanky but not sure what that has to do with axles:)
>> 2 Lookin' for as capable as I can get but don't do anything radical;
>> mostly inch-worm, creepy-crawly kinda stuff and camping.
>> 3 Lockers are better but could live with open diffs til can upgrade
>> later.
>> 4 Got 33's for the past many years. Could go bigger to keep dimensions
>> right. Not interested in size, though, just ability.
>> 5 Just swapped in a Chevrolet 350 w/TPI, headers, etc. It's backed up
>> with a NV4500 & Dana 300. Plenty of torque and power. Gonna upgrade it
>> again and the numbers will go up (only 'cause I haven't rebuilt yet).
>> 6 Outstanding question. I've owned it for somewhere around 13 years now
>> and would never part with it. It's a sentimental hobby car since my son
>> used to love beating it with a hammer as a toddler (lost him shortly
>> thereafter:( All I can tell people is, "It's a Jeep thing. You wouldn't
>> understand." Anyway, it's not meant to be a bogger, rock-crawler or
>> pit-beater. It's a quest for the best all around 4WD I can build based
>> on design; 44" tires and 10' tall isn't cool unless it's optimum (33"
>> tires were it due to handling and brakes).
>> Basically looking for the best starting alternative to look for and have
>> all the time in the world to upgrade/modify from there. I have two
>> little girls to beat on it with a wrench now:)
>> Best Regards,
>> Jim
>>
>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:7_SdnRVY1bcHsC7enZ2dnUVZ_tednZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>> Well, a lot depends on what you want to do.
>>> 1. How deep are your pockets, and how long are your arms?
>>> 2. What type of terrain do you intend to conquer?
>>> 3. Do you want lockers?
>>> 4. What size tires do you want to run?
>>> 5. What engine do you have?
>>> 6. What is your overall goal for this Jeep?
>>>
>>> I ran my 89 Wrangler 2.5L on 33's with stock axles (Dana 30, Dana 35)
>>> without any axle problems. Generally stock axles are OK up to 33" tires
>>> w/o lockers. I've heard of people daring for 34's and 35's, but I
>>> probably wouldn't go that far. Lock it up and wave goodbye.
>>>
>>> Unless you want to lift your Jeep, keep it Spring-under. If you go
>>> spring-over, you will get quite a bit of lift, on average about 6". If
>>> you do want to lift it, during the axle swap is the time.
>>>
>>> Anyhow, assuming you want lockers and/or tires above 33", any of the
>>> axles you mentioned will be just fine, I would pick the one You can get
>>> the best deal on. Remember that a full-size truck's axle will need to be
>>> narrowed to fit under your Jeep properly, it'll look silly and probably
>>> be illegal someway, somehow if you don't have it narrowed.
>>>
>>> I suppose if you really wanted to pick one rear that would be the best
>>> bang for the buck, it would be an 8.8" rear from a 96 and up Ford
>>> Explorer and keep the Dana 30 front. The 8.8 is pretty close to the same
>>> width as your front axle, has larger, stronger tubes and axle shafts,
>>> than your AMC 20 and has factory rear disc brakes. I'm not sure if your
>>> CJ has the wide-track or narrow-track axles, but someone who knows will
>>> likely chime in.
>>>
>>> HTH.
>>>
>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>> "Drink" <drink@gnt.net> wrote in message
>>> news:dov91b$b73$1@news.utelfla.com...
>>>> Okay, first things first: Don't kill me for asking:)
>>>> Now... I want to do an axle conversion and need some advice on what
>>>> to swap (Dana 30 frt/AMC 20 Rr, 11" drums). I've done a lot of
>>>> searching and scrounging but can't find the right axles. A friend in a
>>>> tranny shop recommends 10/12 bolt Chevy's. Another guy want $800 for
>>>> Dana 44's from a 79 Cherokee. Another guy who customs Jeeps wants to
>>>> unload a 14 bolt rear and 44 front for $600 (and $1500 in labor).
>>>> I've read everything from a 8.8 Ford rear to how Scout axles have
>>>> unacceptable drawbacks (for me at least). I either can't find the
>>>> silver bullet website or am overwhelmed with a million "Hey! I did this
>>>> and don't like this about it" hits.
>>>> Can you guys give me some solid advice on axle swaps? I don't mind if
>>>> it's wide since that'll help handling. Don't care if it's spring over
>>>> or under either since I live in the flatlands. I'd really like better
>>>> braking, though. I just don't want to go straight to a machinist off
>>>> the bat.
>>>> P.S. tire size and gearing are a thought as well since I have a NV4500;
>>>> granny 1st is unuseably low right now and wiiiide gear ratio makes it
>>>> drive like a dump truck:)
>>>> Regards,
>>>> Jim
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>

 

8.8" comes with 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern if I am not mistaken, he currently
has 5 on 5.5. So it will have to be swapped / redrilled if you want to have
matching rims and carry only one spare tire.

What is the problem with doing the D44 scout axles? The rear is pretty much
a direct bolt in, you can do that now and be done with a phase 1. I see
rear scout axles all the time local for $100 - $150. The front swap is
pretty easy too, you just need to adjust the caster on them. Fronts go for
$200ish, add some labor for the adjustment, and you are out of this pretty
cheap.


"Carl" <carlsaiyed@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:66WdnYdn6vqVqS7eRVn-jg@comcast.com...
>I would say get an 8.8" rear w/disc brakes and lock it up. It should come
>with 3.55, 3.73, or 4.10 gears.The stock D30 will be fine unlocked, and
>with a locker in the back, you'll do really well. I think that setup with
>4.10 or 4.56 gears would be optimal. Usually 33's couple with 4.56's, but
>withthe 350 and your transmission I don't know. What gears do you have now?
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Drink" <drink@gnt.net> wrote in message
> news:dovbq1$dhd$1@news.utelfla.com...
>>1 Pockets not very deep at the moment but time heals all wounds. Arms are
>>kinda lanky but not sure what that has to do with axles:)
>> 2 Lookin' for as capable as I can get but don't do anything radical;
>> mostly inch-worm, creepy-crawly kinda stuff and camping.
>> 3 Lockers are better but could live with open diffs til can upgrade
>> later.
>> 4 Got 33's for the past many years. Could go bigger to keep dimensions
>> right. Not interested in size, though, just ability.
>> 5 Just swapped in a Chevrolet 350 w/TPI, headers, etc. It's backed up
>> with a NV4500 & Dana 300. Plenty of torque and power. Gonna upgrade it
>> again and the numbers will go up (only 'cause I haven't rebuilt yet).
>> 6 Outstanding question. I've owned it for somewhere around 13 years now
>> and would never part with it. It's a sentimental hobby car since my son
>> used to love beating it with a hammer as a toddler (lost him shortly
>> thereafter:( All I can tell people is, "It's a Jeep thing. You wouldn't
>> understand." Anyway, it's not meant to be a bogger, rock-crawler or
>> pit-beater. It's a quest for the best all around 4WD I can build based
>> on design; 44" tires and 10' tall isn't cool unless it's optimum (33"
>> tires were it due to handling and brakes).
>> Basically looking for the best starting alternative to look for and have
>> all the time in the world to upgrade/modify from there. I have two
>> little girls to beat on it with a wrench now:)
>> Best Regards,
>> Jim
>>
>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:7_SdnRVY1bcHsC7enZ2dnUVZ_tednZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>> Well, a lot depends on what you want to do.
>>> 1. How deep are your pockets, and how long are your arms?
>>> 2. What type of terrain do you intend to conquer?
>>> 3. Do you want lockers?
>>> 4. What size tires do you want to run?
>>> 5. What engine do you have?
>>> 6. What is your overall goal for this Jeep?
>>>
>>> I ran my 89 Wrangler 2.5L on 33's with stock axles (Dana 30, Dana 35)
>>> without any axle problems. Generally stock axles are OK up to 33" tires
>>> w/o lockers. I've heard of people daring for 34's and 35's, but I
>>> probably wouldn't go that far. Lock it up and wave goodbye.
>>>
>>> Unless you want to lift your Jeep, keep it Spring-under. If you go
>>> spring-over, you will get quite a bit of lift, on average about 6". If
>>> you do want to lift it, during the axle swap is the time.
>>>
>>> Anyhow, assuming you want lockers and/or tires above 33", any of the
>>> axles you mentioned will be just fine, I would pick the one You can get
>>> the best deal on. Remember that a full-size truck's axle will need to be
>>> narrowed to fit under your Jeep properly, it'll look silly and probably
>>> be illegal someway, somehow if you don't have it narrowed.
>>>
>>> I suppose if you really wanted to pick one rear that would be the best
>>> bang for the buck, it would be an 8.8" rear from a 96 and up Ford
>>> Explorer and keep the Dana 30 front. The 8.8 is pretty close to the same
>>> width as your front axle, has larger, stronger tubes and axle shafts,
>>> than your AMC 20 and has factory rear disc brakes. I'm not sure if your
>>> CJ has the wide-track or narrow-track axles, but someone who knows will
>>> likely chime in.
>>>
>>> HTH.
>>>
>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>> "Drink" <drink@gnt.net> wrote in message
>>> news:dov91b$b73$1@news.utelfla.com...
>>>> Okay, first things first: Don't kill me for asking:)
>>>> Now... I want to do an axle conversion and need some advice on what
>>>> to swap (Dana 30 frt/AMC 20 Rr, 11" drums). I've done a lot of
>>>> searching and scrounging but can't find the right axles. A friend in a
>>>> tranny shop recommends 10/12 bolt Chevy's. Another guy want $800 for
>>>> Dana 44's from a 79 Cherokee. Another guy who customs Jeeps wants to
>>>> unload a 14 bolt rear and 44 front for $600 (and $1500 in labor).
>>>> I've read everything from a 8.8 Ford rear to how Scout axles have
>>>> unacceptable drawbacks (for me at least). I either can't find the
>>>> silver bullet website or am overwhelmed with a million "Hey! I did this
>>>> and don't like this about it" hits.
>>>> Can you guys give me some solid advice on axle swaps? I don't mind if
>>>> it's wide since that'll help handling. Don't care if it's spring over
>>>> or under either since I live in the flatlands. I'd really like better
>>>> braking, though. I just don't want to go straight to a machinist off
>>>> the bat.
>>>> P.S. tire size and gearing are a thought as well since I have a NV4500;
>>>> granny 1st is unuseably low right now and wiiiide gear ratio makes it
>>>> drive like a dump truck:)
>>>> Regards,
>>>> Jim
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>

 

8.8" comes with 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern if I am not mistaken, he currently
has 5 on 5.5. So it will have to be swapped / redrilled if you want to have
matching rims and carry only one spare tire.

What is the problem with doing the D44 scout axles? The rear is pretty much
a direct bolt in, you can do that now and be done with a phase 1. I see
rear scout axles all the time local for $100 - $150. The front swap is
pretty easy too, you just need to adjust the caster on them. Fronts go for
$200ish, add some labor for the adjustment, and you are out of this pretty
cheap.


"Carl" <carlsaiyed@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:66WdnYdn6vqVqS7eRVn-jg@comcast.com...
>I would say get an 8.8" rear w/disc brakes and lock it up. It should come
>with 3.55, 3.73, or 4.10 gears.The stock D30 will be fine unlocked, and
>with a locker in the back, you'll do really well. I think that setup with
>4.10 or 4.56 gears would be optimal. Usually 33's couple with 4.56's, but
>withthe 350 and your transmission I don't know. What gears do you have now?
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Drink" <drink@gnt.net> wrote in message
> news:dovbq1$dhd$1@news.utelfla.com...
>>1 Pockets not very deep at the moment but time heals all wounds. Arms are
>>kinda lanky but not sure what that has to do with axles:)
>> 2 Lookin' for as capable as I can get but don't do anything radical;
>> mostly inch-worm, creepy-crawly kinda stuff and camping.
>> 3 Lockers are better but could live with open diffs til can upgrade
>> later.
>> 4 Got 33's for the past many years. Could go bigger to keep dimensions
>> right. Not interested in size, though, just ability.
>> 5 Just swapped in a Chevrolet 350 w/TPI, headers, etc. It's backed up
>> with a NV4500 & Dana 300. Plenty of torque and power. Gonna upgrade it
>> again and the numbers will go up (only 'cause I haven't rebuilt yet).
>> 6 Outstanding question. I've owned it for somewhere around 13 years now
>> and would never part with it. It's a sentimental hobby car since my son
>> used to love beating it with a hammer as a toddler (lost him shortly
>> thereafter:( All I can tell people is, "It's a Jeep thing. You wouldn't
>> understand." Anyway, it's not meant to be a bogger, rock-crawler or
>> pit-beater. It's a quest for the best all around 4WD I can build based
>> on design; 44" tires and 10' tall isn't cool unless it's optimum (33"
>> tires were it due to handling and brakes).
>> Basically looking for the best starting alternative to look for and have
>> all the time in the world to upgrade/modify from there. I have two
>> little girls to beat on it with a wrench now:)
>> Best Regards,
>> Jim
>>
>> "Carl" <carlsaiyed@REMOVE.hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:7_SdnRVY1bcHsC7enZ2dnUVZ_tednZ2d@comcast.com. ..
>>> Well, a lot depends on what you want to do.
>>> 1. How deep are your pockets, and how long are your arms?
>>> 2. What type of terrain do you intend to conquer?
>>> 3. Do you want lockers?
>>> 4. What size tires do you want to run?
>>> 5. What engine do you have?
>>> 6. What is your overall goal for this Jeep?
>>>
>>> I ran my 89 Wrangler 2.5L on 33's with stock axles (Dana 30, Dana 35)
>>> without any axle problems. Generally stock axles are OK up to 33" tires
>>> w/o lockers. I've heard of people daring for 34's and 35's, but I
>>> probably wouldn't go that far. Lock it up and wave goodbye.
>>>
>>> Unless you want to lift your Jeep, keep it Spring-under. If you go
>>> spring-over, you will get quite a bit of lift, on average about 6". If
>>> you do want to lift it, during the axle swap is the time.
>>>
>>> Anyhow, assuming you want lockers and/or tires above 33", any of the
>>> axles you mentioned will be just fine, I would pick the one You can get
>>> the best deal on. Remember that a full-size truck's axle will need to be
>>> narrowed to fit under your Jeep properly, it'll look silly and probably
>>> be illegal someway, somehow if you don't have it narrowed.
>>>
>>> I suppose if you really wanted to pick one rear that would be the best
>>> bang for the buck, it would be an 8.8" rear from a 96 and up Ford
>>> Explorer and keep the Dana 30 front. The 8.8 is pretty close to the same
>>> width as your front axle, has larger, stronger tubes and axle shafts,
>>> than your AMC 20 and has factory rear disc brakes. I'm not sure if your
>>> CJ has the wide-track or narrow-track axles, but someone who knows will
>>> likely chime in.
>>>
>>> HTH.
>>>
>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>> "Drink" <drink@gnt.net> wrote in message
>>> news:dov91b$b73$1@news.utelfla.com...
>>>> Okay, first things first: Don't kill me for asking:)
>>>> Now... I want to do an axle conversion and need some advice on what
>>>> to swap (Dana 30 frt/AMC 20 Rr, 11" drums). I've done a lot of
>>>> searching and scrounging but can't find the right axles. A friend in a
>>>> tranny shop recommends 10/12 bolt Chevy's. Another guy want $800 for
>>>> Dana 44's from a 79 Cherokee. Another guy who customs Jeeps wants to
>>>> unload a 14 bolt rear and 44 front for $600 (and $1500 in labor).
>>>> I've read everything from a 8.8 Ford rear to how Scout axles have
>>>> unacceptable drawbacks (for me at least). I either can't find the
>>>> silver bullet website or am overwhelmed with a million "Hey! I did this
>>>> and don't like this about it" hits.
>>>> Can you guys give me some solid advice on axle swaps? I don't mind if
>>>> it's wide since that'll help handling. Don't care if it's spring over
>>>> or under either since I live in the flatlands. I'd really like better
>>>> braking, though. I just don't want to go straight to a machinist off
>>>> the bat.
>>>> P.S. tire size and gearing are a thought as well since I have a NV4500;
>>>> granny 1st is unuseably low right now and wiiiide gear ratio makes it
>>>> drive like a dump truck:)
>>>> Regards,
>>>> Jim
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>

 

I see a lot of 'Optionals'...


"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43B33B7C.FD43676B@***.net...
> The Javelin ran over four hundred horsepower in front of your axle:
> http://www.lhmopars.com/MOPAR_Ads/19...avelin_ad.html
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Drink wrote:
>>
>> Okay, first things first: Don't kill me for asking:)
>> Now... I want to do an axle conversion and need some advice on what to
>> swap (Dana 30 frt/AMC 20 Rr, 11" drums). I've done a lot of searching
>> and
>> scrounging but can't find the right axles. A friend in a tranny shop
>> recommends 10/12 bolt Chevy's. Another guy want $800 for Dana 44's from
>> a
>> 79 Cherokee. Another guy who customs Jeeps wants to unload a 14 bolt
>> rear
>> and 44 front for $600 (and $1500 in labor).
>> I've read everything from a 8.8 Ford rear to how Scout axles have
>> unacceptable drawbacks (for me at least). I either can't find the silver
>> bullet website or am overwhelmed with a million "Hey! I did this and
>> don't
>> like this about it" hits.
>> Can you guys give me some solid advice on axle swaps? I don't mind if
>> it's wide since that'll help handling. Don't care if it's spring over or
>> under either since I live in the flatlands. I'd really like better
>> braking,
>> though. I just don't want to go straight to a machinist off the bat.
>> P.S. tire size and gearing are a thought as well since I have a NV4500;
>> granny 1st is unuseably low right now and wiiiide gear ratio makes it
>> drive
>> like a dump truck:)
>> Regards,
>> Jim

 

I see a lot of 'Optionals'...


"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:43B33B7C.FD43676B@***.net...
> The Javelin ran over four hundred horsepower in front of your axle:
> http://www.lhmopars.com/MOPAR_Ads/19...avelin_ad.html
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Drink wrote:
>>
>> Okay, first things first: Don't kill me for asking:)
>> Now... I want to do an axle conversion and need some advice on what to
>> swap (Dana 30 frt/AMC 20 Rr, 11" drums). I've done a lot of searching
>> and
>> scrounging but can't find the right axles. A friend in a tranny shop
>> recommends 10/12 bolt Chevy's. Another guy want $800 for Dana 44's from
>> a
>> 79 Cherokee. Another guy who customs Jeeps wants to unload a 14 bolt
>> rear
>> and 44 front for $600 (and $1500 in labor).
>> I've read everything from a 8.8 Ford rear to how Scout axles have
>> unacceptable drawbacks (for me at least). I either can't find the silver
>> bullet website or am overwhelmed with a million "Hey! I did this and
>> don't
>> like this about it" hits.
>> Can you guys give me some solid advice on axle swaps? I don't mind if
>> it's wide since that'll help handling. Don't care if it's spring over or
>> under either since I live in the flatlands. I'd really like better
>> braking,
>> though. I just don't want to go straight to a machinist off the bat.
>> P.S. tire size and gearing are a thought as well since I have a NV4500;
>> granny 1st is unuseably low right now and wiiiide gear ratio makes it
>> drive
>> like a dump truck:)
>> Regards,
>> Jim