73 cj5 ignition switch
05-23-2004, 09:10 PM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5 ignition switch
Yes, via the starter solenoid.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
KC wrote:
>
> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
KC wrote:
>
> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
05-23-2004, 09:10 PM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5 ignition switch
Yes, via the starter solenoid.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
KC wrote:
>
> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
KC wrote:
>
> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
05-23-2004, 09:10 PM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5 ignition switch
Yes, via the starter solenoid.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
KC wrote:
>
> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
KC wrote:
>
> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
05-23-2004, 09:10 PM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5 ignition switch
Yes, via the starter solenoid.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
KC wrote:
>
> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
KC wrote:
>
> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
05-24-2004, 11:07 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5 ignition switch
On Mon, 24 May 2004, KC wrote:
> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
This is based on the 1976-82 models, but is an off-the-shelf Ford system
should be close enough for your purposes.
The heavy cable from the [+] side of the battery goes to the starter
relay. A smaller gage wire should run from the same post on the relay to
feed the ignition key switch and all accessories. There should always be
[+] present at the back of the ignition key switch, even while off.
Looking at the relay with the battery cable to your left (and the heavy
cable to the starter to your right) there are two smaller terminals on the
relay facing you. The one to the left is the "I" terminal, it feeds full
battery power to the [+] terminal on the coil during cranking. The small
terminal to your right is the "S" terminal, it is fed power from the key
switch when you turn it to the "Start" position.
The wire from the "I" terminal and from the ballast resistor may both be
connected to the [+] terminal on the coil, or they may be spliced
someplace in the harness. It doesn't matter where this union takes place,
so long as you see the proper voltages at the coil.
Using a voltmeter you should see something like 8 volts at the [+]
terminal on the coil with the key switch in the "Run" position -- even if
the engine isn't turning. The voltage drop is from the resistor wire you
found in your harness and the reduced voltage is to keep the coil from
burning out. With the key switch in the "Start" position there should be
full battery power at the coil's [+] terminal. (if the engine is actually
cranking your meter will jump every time the points open and close. You
can disconnect and tape off the cable to the starter to prevent the engine
from turning if you think that you need to test this.)
Schematic:
-----------------------B+ TO IGN SWITCH
|
\ __________
TO BATTERY==========! 0 0 !===========TO STARTER
! | | !
! | | ! Starter relay
!_| __ |_!
| |
| |
| --------------TO IGN SW "START" POSITION
|
|
|
|----^v^v^v^v^v-----TO IGN SW "RUN" POSITION
| Ballast
| resistor
|
|
| ___
| ! ! ---------TO DISTRIBUTOR POINTS
__\__! !__/_
! [+] [-] !
! !
! !
! COIL !
! !
! !
! !
! !
!____________!
Good luck.
> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
This is based on the 1976-82 models, but is an off-the-shelf Ford system
should be close enough for your purposes.
The heavy cable from the [+] side of the battery goes to the starter
relay. A smaller gage wire should run from the same post on the relay to
feed the ignition key switch and all accessories. There should always be
[+] present at the back of the ignition key switch, even while off.
Looking at the relay with the battery cable to your left (and the heavy
cable to the starter to your right) there are two smaller terminals on the
relay facing you. The one to the left is the "I" terminal, it feeds full
battery power to the [+] terminal on the coil during cranking. The small
terminal to your right is the "S" terminal, it is fed power from the key
switch when you turn it to the "Start" position.
The wire from the "I" terminal and from the ballast resistor may both be
connected to the [+] terminal on the coil, or they may be spliced
someplace in the harness. It doesn't matter where this union takes place,
so long as you see the proper voltages at the coil.
Using a voltmeter you should see something like 8 volts at the [+]
terminal on the coil with the key switch in the "Run" position -- even if
the engine isn't turning. The voltage drop is from the resistor wire you
found in your harness and the reduced voltage is to keep the coil from
burning out. With the key switch in the "Start" position there should be
full battery power at the coil's [+] terminal. (if the engine is actually
cranking your meter will jump every time the points open and close. You
can disconnect and tape off the cable to the starter to prevent the engine
from turning if you think that you need to test this.)
Schematic:
-----------------------B+ TO IGN SWITCH
|
\ __________
TO BATTERY==========! 0 0 !===========TO STARTER
! | | !
! | | ! Starter relay
!_| __ |_!
| |
| |
| --------------TO IGN SW "START" POSITION
|
|
|
|----^v^v^v^v^v-----TO IGN SW "RUN" POSITION
| Ballast
| resistor
|
|
| ___
| ! ! ---------TO DISTRIBUTOR POINTS
__\__! !__/_
! [+] [-] !
! !
! !
! COIL !
! !
! !
! !
! !
!____________!
Good luck.
05-24-2004, 11:07 AM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5 ignition switch
On Mon, 24 May 2004, KC wrote:
> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
This is based on the 1976-82 models, but is an off-the-shelf Ford system
should be close enough for your purposes.
The heavy cable from the [+] side of the battery goes to the starter
relay. A smaller gage wire should run from the same post on the relay to
feed the ignition key switch and all accessories. There should always be
[+] present at the back of the ignition key switch, even while off.
Looking at the relay with the battery cable to your left (and the heavy
cable to the starter to your right) there are two smaller terminals on the
relay facing you. The one to the left is the "I" terminal, it feeds full
battery power to the [+] terminal on the coil during cranking. The small
terminal to your right is the "S" terminal, it is fed power from the key
switch when you turn it to the "Start" position.
The wire from the "I" terminal and from the ballast resistor may both be
connected to the [+] terminal on the coil, or they may be spliced
someplace in the harness. It doesn't matter where this union takes place,
so long as you see the proper voltages at the coil.
Using a voltmeter you should see something like 8 volts at the [+]
terminal on the coil with the key switch in the "Run" position -- even if
the engine isn't turning. The voltage drop is from the resistor wire you
found in your harness and the reduced voltage is to keep the coil from
burning out. With the key switch in the "Start" position there should be
full battery power at the coil's [+] terminal. (if the engine is actually
cranking your meter will jump every time the points open and close. You
can disconnect and tape off the cable to the starter to prevent the engine
from turning if you think that you need to test this.)
Schematic:
-----------------------B+ TO IGN SWITCH
|
\ __________
TO BATTERY==========! 0 0 !===========TO STARTER
! | | !
! | | ! Starter relay
!_| __ |_!
| |
| |
| --------------TO IGN SW "START" POSITION
|
|
|
|----^v^v^v^v^v-----TO IGN SW "RUN" POSITION
| Ballast
| resistor
|
|
| ___
| ! ! ---------TO DISTRIBUTOR POINTS
__\__! !__/_
! [+] [-] !
! !
! !
! COIL !
! !
! !
! !
! !
!____________!
Good luck.
> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
This is based on the 1976-82 models, but is an off-the-shelf Ford system
should be close enough for your purposes.
The heavy cable from the [+] side of the battery goes to the starter
relay. A smaller gage wire should run from the same post on the relay to
feed the ignition key switch and all accessories. There should always be
[+] present at the back of the ignition key switch, even while off.
Looking at the relay with the battery cable to your left (and the heavy
cable to the starter to your right) there are two smaller terminals on the
relay facing you. The one to the left is the "I" terminal, it feeds full
battery power to the [+] terminal on the coil during cranking. The small
terminal to your right is the "S" terminal, it is fed power from the key
switch when you turn it to the "Start" position.
The wire from the "I" terminal and from the ballast resistor may both be
connected to the [+] terminal on the coil, or they may be spliced
someplace in the harness. It doesn't matter where this union takes place,
so long as you see the proper voltages at the coil.
Using a voltmeter you should see something like 8 volts at the [+]
terminal on the coil with the key switch in the "Run" position -- even if
the engine isn't turning. The voltage drop is from the resistor wire you
found in your harness and the reduced voltage is to keep the coil from
burning out. With the key switch in the "Start" position there should be
full battery power at the coil's [+] terminal. (if the engine is actually
cranking your meter will jump every time the points open and close. You
can disconnect and tape off the cable to the starter to prevent the engine
from turning if you think that you need to test this.)
Schematic:
-----------------------B+ TO IGN SWITCH
|
\ __________
TO BATTERY==========! 0 0 !===========TO STARTER
! | | !
! | | ! Starter relay
!_| __ |_!
| |
| |
| --------------TO IGN SW "START" POSITION
|
|
|
|----^v^v^v^v^v-----TO IGN SW "RUN" POSITION
| Ballast
| resistor
|
|
| ___
| ! ! ---------TO DISTRIBUTOR POINTS
__\__! !__/_
! [+] [-] !
! !
! !
! COIL !
! !
! !
! !
! !
!____________!
Good luck.
05-24-2004, 11:07 AM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5 ignition switch
On Mon, 24 May 2004, KC wrote:
> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
This is based on the 1976-82 models, but is an off-the-shelf Ford system
should be close enough for your purposes.
The heavy cable from the [+] side of the battery goes to the starter
relay. A smaller gage wire should run from the same post on the relay to
feed the ignition key switch and all accessories. There should always be
[+] present at the back of the ignition key switch, even while off.
Looking at the relay with the battery cable to your left (and the heavy
cable to the starter to your right) there are two smaller terminals on the
relay facing you. The one to the left is the "I" terminal, it feeds full
battery power to the [+] terminal on the coil during cranking. The small
terminal to your right is the "S" terminal, it is fed power from the key
switch when you turn it to the "Start" position.
The wire from the "I" terminal and from the ballast resistor may both be
connected to the [+] terminal on the coil, or they may be spliced
someplace in the harness. It doesn't matter where this union takes place,
so long as you see the proper voltages at the coil.
Using a voltmeter you should see something like 8 volts at the [+]
terminal on the coil with the key switch in the "Run" position -- even if
the engine isn't turning. The voltage drop is from the resistor wire you
found in your harness and the reduced voltage is to keep the coil from
burning out. With the key switch in the "Start" position there should be
full battery power at the coil's [+] terminal. (if the engine is actually
cranking your meter will jump every time the points open and close. You
can disconnect and tape off the cable to the starter to prevent the engine
from turning if you think that you need to test this.)
Schematic:
-----------------------B+ TO IGN SWITCH
|
\ __________
TO BATTERY==========! 0 0 !===========TO STARTER
! | | !
! | | ! Starter relay
!_| __ |_!
| |
| |
| --------------TO IGN SW "START" POSITION
|
|
|
|----^v^v^v^v^v-----TO IGN SW "RUN" POSITION
| Ballast
| resistor
|
|
| ___
| ! ! ---------TO DISTRIBUTOR POINTS
__\__! !__/_
! [+] [-] !
! !
! !
! COIL !
! !
! !
! !
! !
!____________!
Good luck.
> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
This is based on the 1976-82 models, but is an off-the-shelf Ford system
should be close enough for your purposes.
The heavy cable from the [+] side of the battery goes to the starter
relay. A smaller gage wire should run from the same post on the relay to
feed the ignition key switch and all accessories. There should always be
[+] present at the back of the ignition key switch, even while off.
Looking at the relay with the battery cable to your left (and the heavy
cable to the starter to your right) there are two smaller terminals on the
relay facing you. The one to the left is the "I" terminal, it feeds full
battery power to the [+] terminal on the coil during cranking. The small
terminal to your right is the "S" terminal, it is fed power from the key
switch when you turn it to the "Start" position.
The wire from the "I" terminal and from the ballast resistor may both be
connected to the [+] terminal on the coil, or they may be spliced
someplace in the harness. It doesn't matter where this union takes place,
so long as you see the proper voltages at the coil.
Using a voltmeter you should see something like 8 volts at the [+]
terminal on the coil with the key switch in the "Run" position -- even if
the engine isn't turning. The voltage drop is from the resistor wire you
found in your harness and the reduced voltage is to keep the coil from
burning out. With the key switch in the "Start" position there should be
full battery power at the coil's [+] terminal. (if the engine is actually
cranking your meter will jump every time the points open and close. You
can disconnect and tape off the cable to the starter to prevent the engine
from turning if you think that you need to test this.)
Schematic:
-----------------------B+ TO IGN SWITCH
|
\ __________
TO BATTERY==========! 0 0 !===========TO STARTER
! | | !
! | | ! Starter relay
!_| __ |_!
| |
| |
| --------------TO IGN SW "START" POSITION
|
|
|
|----^v^v^v^v^v-----TO IGN SW "RUN" POSITION
| Ballast
| resistor
|
|
| ___
| ! ! ---------TO DISTRIBUTOR POINTS
__\__! !__/_
! [+] [-] !
! !
! !
! COIL !
! !
! !
! !
! !
!____________!
Good luck.
05-24-2004, 11:07 AM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 73 cj5 ignition switch
On Mon, 24 May 2004, KC wrote:
> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
This is based on the 1976-82 models, but is an off-the-shelf Ford system
should be close enough for your purposes.
The heavy cable from the [+] side of the battery goes to the starter
relay. A smaller gage wire should run from the same post on the relay to
feed the ignition key switch and all accessories. There should always be
[+] present at the back of the ignition key switch, even while off.
Looking at the relay with the battery cable to your left (and the heavy
cable to the starter to your right) there are two smaller terminals on the
relay facing you. The one to the left is the "I" terminal, it feeds full
battery power to the [+] terminal on the coil during cranking. The small
terminal to your right is the "S" terminal, it is fed power from the key
switch when you turn it to the "Start" position.
The wire from the "I" terminal and from the ballast resistor may both be
connected to the [+] terminal on the coil, or they may be spliced
someplace in the harness. It doesn't matter where this union takes place,
so long as you see the proper voltages at the coil.
Using a voltmeter you should see something like 8 volts at the [+]
terminal on the coil with the key switch in the "Run" position -- even if
the engine isn't turning. The voltage drop is from the resistor wire you
found in your harness and the reduced voltage is to keep the coil from
burning out. With the key switch in the "Start" position there should be
full battery power at the coil's [+] terminal. (if the engine is actually
cranking your meter will jump every time the points open and close. You
can disconnect and tape off the cable to the starter to prevent the engine
from turning if you think that you need to test this.)
Schematic:
-----------------------B+ TO IGN SWITCH
|
\ __________
TO BATTERY==========! 0 0 !===========TO STARTER
! | | !
! | | ! Starter relay
!_| __ |_!
| |
| |
| --------------TO IGN SW "START" POSITION
|
|
|
|----^v^v^v^v^v-----TO IGN SW "RUN" POSITION
| Ballast
| resistor
|
|
| ___
| ! ! ---------TO DISTRIBUTOR POINTS
__\__! !__/_
! [+] [-] !
! !
! !
! COIL !
! !
! !
! !
! !
!____________!
Good luck.
> should the battery be hooked directly to the ignition switch
This is based on the 1976-82 models, but is an off-the-shelf Ford system
should be close enough for your purposes.
The heavy cable from the [+] side of the battery goes to the starter
relay. A smaller gage wire should run from the same post on the relay to
feed the ignition key switch and all accessories. There should always be
[+] present at the back of the ignition key switch, even while off.
Looking at the relay with the battery cable to your left (and the heavy
cable to the starter to your right) there are two smaller terminals on the
relay facing you. The one to the left is the "I" terminal, it feeds full
battery power to the [+] terminal on the coil during cranking. The small
terminal to your right is the "S" terminal, it is fed power from the key
switch when you turn it to the "Start" position.
The wire from the "I" terminal and from the ballast resistor may both be
connected to the [+] terminal on the coil, or they may be spliced
someplace in the harness. It doesn't matter where this union takes place,
so long as you see the proper voltages at the coil.
Using a voltmeter you should see something like 8 volts at the [+]
terminal on the coil with the key switch in the "Run" position -- even if
the engine isn't turning. The voltage drop is from the resistor wire you
found in your harness and the reduced voltage is to keep the coil from
burning out. With the key switch in the "Start" position there should be
full battery power at the coil's [+] terminal. (if the engine is actually
cranking your meter will jump every time the points open and close. You
can disconnect and tape off the cable to the starter to prevent the engine
from turning if you think that you need to test this.)
Schematic:
-----------------------B+ TO IGN SWITCH
|
\ __________
TO BATTERY==========! 0 0 !===========TO STARTER
! | | !
! | | ! Starter relay
!_| __ |_!
| |
| |
| --------------TO IGN SW "START" POSITION
|
|
|
|----^v^v^v^v^v-----TO IGN SW "RUN" POSITION
| Ballast
| resistor
|
|
| ___
| ! ! ---------TO DISTRIBUTOR POINTS
__\__! !__/_
! [+] [-] !
! !
! !
! COIL !
! !
! !
! !
! !
!____________!
Good luck.
