Hey Bill I realy wanted to read that page,
http://engineparts.com/Motorhead/tec.../cambreak.html as I have under 80
miles on my remanned engine, but the link doesn't work, any others?

"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:428D1E01.4F6CDB78@***.net...
> Hi Mike,
> You got it, round lobe. Camshaft break-in is extremely critical to
> prevent your new camshaft from
> flattening. Follow the camshaft break-in procedure religiously:
> http://engineparts.com/Motorhead/tec.../cambreak.html Your engine in
> 1929 had a side cover, to pull the lifter:
> http://www162.pair.com/nashram/nash/...rsonid=&carid=
> Unfortunately with better sand cores they did away with it and you have
> to pull the head to remove the lifters.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> MikeG wrote:
>>
>> 84 CJ7 4.2L rebuilt engine installed 27K miles ago. Last week, noticed
>> popping out of carb. Found out that the # 1 cylinder exhaust valve and
>> rocker/pushrod were not moving. Exchanged intake pushrod and rocker
>> with
>> the exhaust, same problem. Nuts and bridge are tight. Any opinions on
>> problem......collapsed lifter, round camshaft lobe or other???? TIA
>> Mike

 

Hey Bill I realy wanted to read that page,
http://engineparts.com/Motorhead/tec.../cambreak.html as I have under 80
miles on my remanned engine, but the link doesn't work, any others?

"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:428D1E01.4F6CDB78@***.net...
> Hi Mike,
> You got it, round lobe. Camshaft break-in is extremely critical to
> prevent your new camshaft from
> flattening. Follow the camshaft break-in procedure religiously:
> http://engineparts.com/Motorhead/tec.../cambreak.html Your engine in
> 1929 had a side cover, to pull the lifter:
> http://www162.pair.com/nashram/nash/...rsonid=&carid=
> Unfortunately with better sand cores they did away with it and you have
> to pull the head to remove the lifters.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> MikeG wrote:
>>
>> 84 CJ7 4.2L rebuilt engine installed 27K miles ago. Last week, noticed
>> popping out of carb. Found out that the # 1 cylinder exhaust valve and
>> rocker/pushrod were not moving. Exchanged intake pushrod and rocker
>> with
>> the exhaust, same problem. Nuts and bridge are tight. Any opinions on
>> problem......collapsed lifter, round camshaft lobe or other???? TIA
>> Mike

 

Hey Bill I realy wanted to read that page,
http://engineparts.com/Motorhead/tec.../cambreak.html as I have under 80
miles on my remanned engine, but the link doesn't work, any others?

"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:428D1E01.4F6CDB78@***.net...
> Hi Mike,
> You got it, round lobe. Camshaft break-in is extremely critical to
> prevent your new camshaft from
> flattening. Follow the camshaft break-in procedure religiously:
> http://engineparts.com/Motorhead/tec.../cambreak.html Your engine in
> 1929 had a side cover, to pull the lifter:
> http://www162.pair.com/nashram/nash/...rsonid=&carid=
> Unfortunately with better sand cores they did away with it and you have
> to pull the head to remove the lifters.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> MikeG wrote:
>>
>> 84 CJ7 4.2L rebuilt engine installed 27K miles ago. Last week, noticed
>> popping out of carb. Found out that the # 1 cylinder exhaust valve and
>> rocker/pushrod were not moving. Exchanged intake pushrod and rocker
>> with
>> the exhaust, same problem. Nuts and bridge are tight. Any opinions on
>> problem......collapsed lifter, round camshaft lobe or other???? TIA
>> Mike

 

Copy of: http://engineparts.com/Motorhead/tec.../cambreak.html
"Camshaft Break-In Procedures
Coat the camshaft lobes & distributor gear with an EP lubrication such
as CL400
"Cam Guard" or a moly-paste.
Apply the EP lubricant only to the lifter contact faces - not the bores.
Prime the lube system using new oil and filter.
Use only oils that meet or exceed the latest API ratings.
Do not use non-detergent oils, they do not have the anti-scuff additives
found in
modern detergent oils.
Start the engine and increase the RPM's to 1500-2000. Operate the engine
for
15-20 minutes at this speed. The higher speeds increase splash
lubrication and
decrease nose loading.
Avoid excessive cranking, no start donations and fuel/ignition
adjustments. The
break-in procedure must commence as soon as the engine has oil pressure.
If the
engine fails to start within 15-30 seconds, it is recommended to
re-apply the EP
lubricant to the lobes.
If possible, following break-in, the idle should be adjusted to high
specifications."

You're past the critical ring break-in:
http://performanceunlimited.com/docu...nebreakin.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Greg wrote:
>
> Hey Bill I realy wanted to read that page,
> http://engineparts.com/Motorhead/tec.../cambreak.html as I have under 80
> miles on my remanned engine, but the link doesn't work, any others?

 

Copy of: http://engineparts.com/Motorhead/tec.../cambreak.html
"Camshaft Break-In Procedures
Coat the camshaft lobes & distributor gear with an EP lubrication such
as CL400
"Cam Guard" or a moly-paste.
Apply the EP lubricant only to the lifter contact faces - not the bores.
Prime the lube system using new oil and filter.
Use only oils that meet or exceed the latest API ratings.
Do not use non-detergent oils, they do not have the anti-scuff additives
found in
modern detergent oils.
Start the engine and increase the RPM's to 1500-2000. Operate the engine
for
15-20 minutes at this speed. The higher speeds increase splash
lubrication and
decrease nose loading.
Avoid excessive cranking, no start donations and fuel/ignition
adjustments. The
break-in procedure must commence as soon as the engine has oil pressure.
If the
engine fails to start within 15-30 seconds, it is recommended to
re-apply the EP
lubricant to the lobes.
If possible, following break-in, the idle should be adjusted to high
specifications."

You're past the critical ring break-in:
http://performanceunlimited.com/docu...nebreakin.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Greg wrote:
>
> Hey Bill I realy wanted to read that page,
> http://engineparts.com/Motorhead/tec.../cambreak.html as I have under 80
> miles on my remanned engine, but the link doesn't work, any others?

 

Copy of: http://engineparts.com/Motorhead/tec.../cambreak.html
"Camshaft Break-In Procedures
Coat the camshaft lobes & distributor gear with an EP lubrication such
as CL400
"Cam Guard" or a moly-paste.
Apply the EP lubricant only to the lifter contact faces - not the bores.
Prime the lube system using new oil and filter.
Use only oils that meet or exceed the latest API ratings.
Do not use non-detergent oils, they do not have the anti-scuff additives
found in
modern detergent oils.
Start the engine and increase the RPM's to 1500-2000. Operate the engine
for
15-20 minutes at this speed. The higher speeds increase splash
lubrication and
decrease nose loading.
Avoid excessive cranking, no start donations and fuel/ignition
adjustments. The
break-in procedure must commence as soon as the engine has oil pressure.
If the
engine fails to start within 15-30 seconds, it is recommended to
re-apply the EP
lubricant to the lobes.
If possible, following break-in, the idle should be adjusted to high
specifications."

You're past the critical ring break-in:
http://performanceunlimited.com/docu...nebreakin.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Greg wrote:
>
> Hey Bill I realy wanted to read that page,
> http://engineparts.com/Motorhead/tec.../cambreak.html as I have under 80
> miles on my remanned engine, but the link doesn't work, any others?

 

Copy of: http://engineparts.com/Motorhead/tec.../cambreak.html
"Camshaft Break-In Procedures
Coat the camshaft lobes & distributor gear with an EP lubrication such
as CL400
"Cam Guard" or a moly-paste.
Apply the EP lubricant only to the lifter contact faces - not the bores.
Prime the lube system using new oil and filter.
Use only oils that meet or exceed the latest API ratings.
Do not use non-detergent oils, they do not have the anti-scuff additives
found in
modern detergent oils.
Start the engine and increase the RPM's to 1500-2000. Operate the engine
for
15-20 minutes at this speed. The higher speeds increase splash
lubrication and
decrease nose loading.
Avoid excessive cranking, no start donations and fuel/ignition
adjustments. The
break-in procedure must commence as soon as the engine has oil pressure.
If the
engine fails to start within 15-30 seconds, it is recommended to
re-apply the EP
lubricant to the lobes.
If possible, following break-in, the idle should be adjusted to high
specifications."

You're past the critical ring break-in:
http://performanceunlimited.com/docu...nebreakin.html
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Greg wrote:
>
> Hey Bill I realy wanted to read that page,
> http://engineparts.com/Motorhead/tec.../cambreak.html as I have under 80
> miles on my remanned engine, but the link doesn't work, any others?

 

What a drag....

On a remanned engine, that just screams faulty cleaning work. That
strongly implies dirt or metal shavings have plugged up one or more oil
passages which caused the cam to burn off. If it was just dirt in the
lifter, the pushrod would still be moving with a loud clacking noise at
it hit the rocker.

The only fix I know is a complete tear down with each oil channel's flow
verified before reassemble. Just putting another cam in it will end up
with the same result likely.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

MikeG wrote:
>
> 84 CJ7 4.2L rebuilt engine installed 27K miles ago. Last week, noticed
> popping out of carb. Found out that the # 1 cylinder exhaust valve and
> rocker/pushrod were not moving. Exchanged intake pushrod and rocker with
> the exhaust, same problem. Nuts and bridge are tight. Any opinions on
> problem......collapsed lifter, round camshaft lobe or other???? TIA Mike

 

What a drag....

On a remanned engine, that just screams faulty cleaning work. That
strongly implies dirt or metal shavings have plugged up one or more oil
passages which caused the cam to burn off. If it was just dirt in the
lifter, the pushrod would still be moving with a loud clacking noise at
it hit the rocker.

The only fix I know is a complete tear down with each oil channel's flow
verified before reassemble. Just putting another cam in it will end up
with the same result likely.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

MikeG wrote:
>
> 84 CJ7 4.2L rebuilt engine installed 27K miles ago. Last week, noticed
> popping out of carb. Found out that the # 1 cylinder exhaust valve and
> rocker/pushrod were not moving. Exchanged intake pushrod and rocker with
> the exhaust, same problem. Nuts and bridge are tight. Any opinions on
> problem......collapsed lifter, round camshaft lobe or other???? TIA Mike

 

What a drag....

On a remanned engine, that just screams faulty cleaning work. That
strongly implies dirt or metal shavings have plugged up one or more oil
passages which caused the cam to burn off. If it was just dirt in the
lifter, the pushrod would still be moving with a loud clacking noise at
it hit the rocker.

The only fix I know is a complete tear down with each oil channel's flow
verified before reassemble. Just putting another cam in it will end up
with the same result likely.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

MikeG wrote:
>
> 84 CJ7 4.2L rebuilt engine installed 27K miles ago. Last week, noticed
> popping out of carb. Found out that the # 1 cylinder exhaust valve and
> rocker/pushrod were not moving. Exchanged intake pushrod and rocker with
> the exhaust, same problem. Nuts and bridge are tight. Any opinions on
> problem......collapsed lifter, round camshaft lobe or other???? TIA Mike