4x4 trouble with 88 cherokee please help a.s.a.p.
09-08-2004, 03:05 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 4x4 trouble with 88 cherokee please help a.s.a.p.
Hi Brad,
I'm speaking from experience with the NP231 'command-trac' case, but
same principles should apply for your NP242 'selec-trac'.
First thing to check is the transfer case linkage adjustment. Block the
tires, set transmission to N, and shift the t-case handle to 4 low. Grab
a 13 mm wrench and crawl under the jeep below your t-case shift handle.
Look for a linkage rod that passes through a trunnion with a bolt.
Loosen the bolt. Then rotate the little shift lever arm on the transfer
case itself as far as it will go to ensure it is fully engaged in low
range. Tighten the bolt. Lubricate the entire linkage assembly. Try the
shift handle action in all positions. The handle should lay flat in 2 high.
Even with the linkage in proper adjustment, it may not operate correctly
if the shift rod bushings (little plastic rings) are worn. Get
replacements from the dealer.
Check that you are really in 2 wd by putting the front end on stands.
Front wheels and drive shaft should turn freely with the transmission in
gear. Take it for short test drive on the nearest loose surface to try
4x4 modes. If noise persists stop immediately and put it back to 2wd
(from underneath if necessary) so you can drive without further damage.
Next thing to do is drain the tcase (look for metal bits), drop it, and
open it up to look for damaged parts:
http://tinyurl.com/4cql5
http://tinyurl.com/5jxgs
The mode fork and/or range fork can fail because of missing or worn pad
inserts. Also look for failed bushings and springs on the fork shift
rail. Hope you don't find crunched up gears.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Brad Johnson wrote:
> lucky me..... well i guess im going to get under it today ( probably
> wont do any good ) i will post any findings later. any other oppinions
> or solutions would be appreciated. thank's again.
I'm speaking from experience with the NP231 'command-trac' case, but
same principles should apply for your NP242 'selec-trac'.
First thing to check is the transfer case linkage adjustment. Block the
tires, set transmission to N, and shift the t-case handle to 4 low. Grab
a 13 mm wrench and crawl under the jeep below your t-case shift handle.
Look for a linkage rod that passes through a trunnion with a bolt.
Loosen the bolt. Then rotate the little shift lever arm on the transfer
case itself as far as it will go to ensure it is fully engaged in low
range. Tighten the bolt. Lubricate the entire linkage assembly. Try the
shift handle action in all positions. The handle should lay flat in 2 high.
Even with the linkage in proper adjustment, it may not operate correctly
if the shift rod bushings (little plastic rings) are worn. Get
replacements from the dealer.
Check that you are really in 2 wd by putting the front end on stands.
Front wheels and drive shaft should turn freely with the transmission in
gear. Take it for short test drive on the nearest loose surface to try
4x4 modes. If noise persists stop immediately and put it back to 2wd
(from underneath if necessary) so you can drive without further damage.
Next thing to do is drain the tcase (look for metal bits), drop it, and
open it up to look for damaged parts:
http://tinyurl.com/4cql5
http://tinyurl.com/5jxgs
The mode fork and/or range fork can fail because of missing or worn pad
inserts. Also look for failed bushings and springs on the fork shift
rail. Hope you don't find crunched up gears.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Brad Johnson wrote:
> lucky me..... well i guess im going to get under it today ( probably
> wont do any good ) i will post any findings later. any other oppinions
> or solutions would be appreciated. thank's again.
09-08-2004, 03:05 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 4x4 trouble with 88 cherokee please help a.s.a.p.
Hi Brad,
I'm speaking from experience with the NP231 'command-trac' case, but
same principles should apply for your NP242 'selec-trac'.
First thing to check is the transfer case linkage adjustment. Block the
tires, set transmission to N, and shift the t-case handle to 4 low. Grab
a 13 mm wrench and crawl under the jeep below your t-case shift handle.
Look for a linkage rod that passes through a trunnion with a bolt.
Loosen the bolt. Then rotate the little shift lever arm on the transfer
case itself as far as it will go to ensure it is fully engaged in low
range. Tighten the bolt. Lubricate the entire linkage assembly. Try the
shift handle action in all positions. The handle should lay flat in 2 high.
Even with the linkage in proper adjustment, it may not operate correctly
if the shift rod bushings (little plastic rings) are worn. Get
replacements from the dealer.
Check that you are really in 2 wd by putting the front end on stands.
Front wheels and drive shaft should turn freely with the transmission in
gear. Take it for short test drive on the nearest loose surface to try
4x4 modes. If noise persists stop immediately and put it back to 2wd
(from underneath if necessary) so you can drive without further damage.
Next thing to do is drain the tcase (look for metal bits), drop it, and
open it up to look for damaged parts:
http://tinyurl.com/4cql5
http://tinyurl.com/5jxgs
The mode fork and/or range fork can fail because of missing or worn pad
inserts. Also look for failed bushings and springs on the fork shift
rail. Hope you don't find crunched up gears.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Brad Johnson wrote:
> lucky me..... well i guess im going to get under it today ( probably
> wont do any good ) i will post any findings later. any other oppinions
> or solutions would be appreciated. thank's again.
I'm speaking from experience with the NP231 'command-trac' case, but
same principles should apply for your NP242 'selec-trac'.
First thing to check is the transfer case linkage adjustment. Block the
tires, set transmission to N, and shift the t-case handle to 4 low. Grab
a 13 mm wrench and crawl under the jeep below your t-case shift handle.
Look for a linkage rod that passes through a trunnion with a bolt.
Loosen the bolt. Then rotate the little shift lever arm on the transfer
case itself as far as it will go to ensure it is fully engaged in low
range. Tighten the bolt. Lubricate the entire linkage assembly. Try the
shift handle action in all positions. The handle should lay flat in 2 high.
Even with the linkage in proper adjustment, it may not operate correctly
if the shift rod bushings (little plastic rings) are worn. Get
replacements from the dealer.
Check that you are really in 2 wd by putting the front end on stands.
Front wheels and drive shaft should turn freely with the transmission in
gear. Take it for short test drive on the nearest loose surface to try
4x4 modes. If noise persists stop immediately and put it back to 2wd
(from underneath if necessary) so you can drive without further damage.
Next thing to do is drain the tcase (look for metal bits), drop it, and
open it up to look for damaged parts:
http://tinyurl.com/4cql5
http://tinyurl.com/5jxgs
The mode fork and/or range fork can fail because of missing or worn pad
inserts. Also look for failed bushings and springs on the fork shift
rail. Hope you don't find crunched up gears.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Brad Johnson wrote:
> lucky me..... well i guess im going to get under it today ( probably
> wont do any good ) i will post any findings later. any other oppinions
> or solutions would be appreciated. thank's again.
09-08-2004, 03:05 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 4x4 trouble with 88 cherokee please help a.s.a.p.
Hi Brad,
I'm speaking from experience with the NP231 'command-trac' case, but
same principles should apply for your NP242 'selec-trac'.
First thing to check is the transfer case linkage adjustment. Block the
tires, set transmission to N, and shift the t-case handle to 4 low. Grab
a 13 mm wrench and crawl under the jeep below your t-case shift handle.
Look for a linkage rod that passes through a trunnion with a bolt.
Loosen the bolt. Then rotate the little shift lever arm on the transfer
case itself as far as it will go to ensure it is fully engaged in low
range. Tighten the bolt. Lubricate the entire linkage assembly. Try the
shift handle action in all positions. The handle should lay flat in 2 high.
Even with the linkage in proper adjustment, it may not operate correctly
if the shift rod bushings (little plastic rings) are worn. Get
replacements from the dealer.
Check that you are really in 2 wd by putting the front end on stands.
Front wheels and drive shaft should turn freely with the transmission in
gear. Take it for short test drive on the nearest loose surface to try
4x4 modes. If noise persists stop immediately and put it back to 2wd
(from underneath if necessary) so you can drive without further damage.
Next thing to do is drain the tcase (look for metal bits), drop it, and
open it up to look for damaged parts:
http://tinyurl.com/4cql5
http://tinyurl.com/5jxgs
The mode fork and/or range fork can fail because of missing or worn pad
inserts. Also look for failed bushings and springs on the fork shift
rail. Hope you don't find crunched up gears.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Brad Johnson wrote:
> lucky me..... well i guess im going to get under it today ( probably
> wont do any good ) i will post any findings later. any other oppinions
> or solutions would be appreciated. thank's again.
I'm speaking from experience with the NP231 'command-trac' case, but
same principles should apply for your NP242 'selec-trac'.
First thing to check is the transfer case linkage adjustment. Block the
tires, set transmission to N, and shift the t-case handle to 4 low. Grab
a 13 mm wrench and crawl under the jeep below your t-case shift handle.
Look for a linkage rod that passes through a trunnion with a bolt.
Loosen the bolt. Then rotate the little shift lever arm on the transfer
case itself as far as it will go to ensure it is fully engaged in low
range. Tighten the bolt. Lubricate the entire linkage assembly. Try the
shift handle action in all positions. The handle should lay flat in 2 high.
Even with the linkage in proper adjustment, it may not operate correctly
if the shift rod bushings (little plastic rings) are worn. Get
replacements from the dealer.
Check that you are really in 2 wd by putting the front end on stands.
Front wheels and drive shaft should turn freely with the transmission in
gear. Take it for short test drive on the nearest loose surface to try
4x4 modes. If noise persists stop immediately and put it back to 2wd
(from underneath if necessary) so you can drive without further damage.
Next thing to do is drain the tcase (look for metal bits), drop it, and
open it up to look for damaged parts:
http://tinyurl.com/4cql5
http://tinyurl.com/5jxgs
The mode fork and/or range fork can fail because of missing or worn pad
inserts. Also look for failed bushings and springs on the fork shift
rail. Hope you don't find crunched up gears.
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
Brad Johnson wrote:
> lucky me..... well i guess im going to get under it today ( probably
> wont do any good ) i will post any findings later. any other oppinions
> or solutions would be appreciated. thank's again.
09-08-2004, 03:45 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 4x4 trouble with 88 cherokee please help a.s.a.p.
You need to do a close inspection of the front axle u-joints too. If
you damaged one of them by being in 4x4 on pavement, they can blow out
causing expensive damage. New joint for $12.00 or new axles and a tow
if it blows.
Sometimes you literally have to spin the tires or burn rubber in reverse
to get it to release if it wound up the t-case in 4x4 part time.
Hopefully some grease on the linkage and a tighten on a loose vacuum
line is all you need. The vacuum lines are cheap to replace, look down
near the exhaust for a potential melted line.
Oh, you will likely get more responses if you post in a format everyone
can read. Microcrap HTML is only good for other microcrap users and
this is a text group.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Brad Johnson wrote:
>
> thank's steve, im going to try to adjust it today. if i could just get
> it into 2wd i'll be happy. i don't have the money to fix anything
> now..... i will check the transfer case in a few day's......
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> [Image]
you damaged one of them by being in 4x4 on pavement, they can blow out
causing expensive damage. New joint for $12.00 or new axles and a tow
if it blows.
Sometimes you literally have to spin the tires or burn rubber in reverse
to get it to release if it wound up the t-case in 4x4 part time.
Hopefully some grease on the linkage and a tighten on a loose vacuum
line is all you need. The vacuum lines are cheap to replace, look down
near the exhaust for a potential melted line.
Oh, you will likely get more responses if you post in a format everyone
can read. Microcrap HTML is only good for other microcrap users and
this is a text group.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Brad Johnson wrote:
>
> thank's steve, im going to try to adjust it today. if i could just get
> it into 2wd i'll be happy. i don't have the money to fix anything
> now..... i will check the transfer case in a few day's......
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> [Image]
09-08-2004, 03:45 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 4x4 trouble with 88 cherokee please help a.s.a.p.
You need to do a close inspection of the front axle u-joints too. If
you damaged one of them by being in 4x4 on pavement, they can blow out
causing expensive damage. New joint for $12.00 or new axles and a tow
if it blows.
Sometimes you literally have to spin the tires or burn rubber in reverse
to get it to release if it wound up the t-case in 4x4 part time.
Hopefully some grease on the linkage and a tighten on a loose vacuum
line is all you need. The vacuum lines are cheap to replace, look down
near the exhaust for a potential melted line.
Oh, you will likely get more responses if you post in a format everyone
can read. Microcrap HTML is only good for other microcrap users and
this is a text group.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Brad Johnson wrote:
>
> thank's steve, im going to try to adjust it today. if i could just get
> it into 2wd i'll be happy. i don't have the money to fix anything
> now..... i will check the transfer case in a few day's......
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> [Image]
you damaged one of them by being in 4x4 on pavement, they can blow out
causing expensive damage. New joint for $12.00 or new axles and a tow
if it blows.
Sometimes you literally have to spin the tires or burn rubber in reverse
to get it to release if it wound up the t-case in 4x4 part time.
Hopefully some grease on the linkage and a tighten on a loose vacuum
line is all you need. The vacuum lines are cheap to replace, look down
near the exhaust for a potential melted line.
Oh, you will likely get more responses if you post in a format everyone
can read. Microcrap HTML is only good for other microcrap users and
this is a text group.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Brad Johnson wrote:
>
> thank's steve, im going to try to adjust it today. if i could just get
> it into 2wd i'll be happy. i don't have the money to fix anything
> now..... i will check the transfer case in a few day's......
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> [Image]
09-08-2004, 03:45 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 4x4 trouble with 88 cherokee please help a.s.a.p.
You need to do a close inspection of the front axle u-joints too. If
you damaged one of them by being in 4x4 on pavement, they can blow out
causing expensive damage. New joint for $12.00 or new axles and a tow
if it blows.
Sometimes you literally have to spin the tires or burn rubber in reverse
to get it to release if it wound up the t-case in 4x4 part time.
Hopefully some grease on the linkage and a tighten on a loose vacuum
line is all you need. The vacuum lines are cheap to replace, look down
near the exhaust for a potential melted line.
Oh, you will likely get more responses if you post in a format everyone
can read. Microcrap HTML is only good for other microcrap users and
this is a text group.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Brad Johnson wrote:
>
> thank's steve, im going to try to adjust it today. if i could just get
> it into 2wd i'll be happy. i don't have the money to fix anything
> now..... i will check the transfer case in a few day's......
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> [Image]
you damaged one of them by being in 4x4 on pavement, they can blow out
causing expensive damage. New joint for $12.00 or new axles and a tow
if it blows.
Sometimes you literally have to spin the tires or burn rubber in reverse
to get it to release if it wound up the t-case in 4x4 part time.
Hopefully some grease on the linkage and a tighten on a loose vacuum
line is all you need. The vacuum lines are cheap to replace, look down
near the exhaust for a potential melted line.
Oh, you will likely get more responses if you post in a format everyone
can read. Microcrap HTML is only good for other microcrap users and
this is a text group.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Brad Johnson wrote:
>
> thank's steve, im going to try to adjust it today. if i could just get
> it into 2wd i'll be happy. i don't have the money to fix anything
> now..... i will check the transfer case in a few day's......
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> [Image]
09-09-2004, 12:55 AM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 4x4 trouble with 88 cherokee please help a.s.a.p.
On Wed, 8 Sep 2004 19:45:16 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
> You need to do a close inspection of the front axle u-joints too. If
> you damaged one of them by being in 4x4 on pavement, they can blow out
> causing expensive damage. New joint for $12.00 or new axles and a tow
> if it blows.
>
> Sometimes you literally have to spin the tires or burn rubber in reverse
> to get it to release if it wound up the t-case in 4x4 part time.
>
> Hopefully some grease on the linkage and a tighten on a loose vacuum
> line is all you need. The vacuum lines are cheap to replace, look down
> near the exhaust for a potential melted line.
>
> Oh, you will likely get more responses if you post in a format everyone
> can read. Microcrap HTML is only good for other microcrap users and
> this is a text group.
>
> Mike
What the heck is everyone complaining about in the format? I got the
OP with the following heading text:
--WebTV-Mail-17878-12785
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit
but the message was in plain text ascii. Is my news reader just being
smarter than I am about the encoding?
--
Will Honea
wrote:
> You need to do a close inspection of the front axle u-joints too. If
> you damaged one of them by being in 4x4 on pavement, they can blow out
> causing expensive damage. New joint for $12.00 or new axles and a tow
> if it blows.
>
> Sometimes you literally have to spin the tires or burn rubber in reverse
> to get it to release if it wound up the t-case in 4x4 part time.
>
> Hopefully some grease on the linkage and a tighten on a loose vacuum
> line is all you need. The vacuum lines are cheap to replace, look down
> near the exhaust for a potential melted line.
>
> Oh, you will likely get more responses if you post in a format everyone
> can read. Microcrap HTML is only good for other microcrap users and
> this is a text group.
>
> Mike
What the heck is everyone complaining about in the format? I got the
OP with the following heading text:
--WebTV-Mail-17878-12785
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit
but the message was in plain text ascii. Is my news reader just being
smarter than I am about the encoding?
--
Will Honea
