4WD problems on '95 YJ
Guest
Posts: n/a
Just plug the line going from the engine to the transfercase switch.
Should be a black plastic line heading off from the very back of the
engine on the driver's side.
big95yj wrote:
> Thanks for the good tips! I did do the check by lifting the vehicle and
> seeing if the wheel will lock. It doesn't :( I pulled the motor off
> after finding a website that gives instructions on how to convert the
> motor into a mechanical shift for under $26! I peeled the cover of the
> vaccuum portion of the motor and sure enough, there was rust and other
> crud inside, along with a hole in the diaphram. The website for that
> conversion is http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm.
> I have begun the conversion and I am getting the supplies from the bike
> shop tomorrow. I am assuming that I should just place vaccuum plugs
> over all of the connections that are now going to be out of service, as
> the website does not say. Thanks again for the help and I will let you
> know how the mechanical version fairs.
>
Should be a black plastic line heading off from the very back of the
engine on the driver's side.
big95yj wrote:
> Thanks for the good tips! I did do the check by lifting the vehicle and
> seeing if the wheel will lock. It doesn't :( I pulled the motor off
> after finding a website that gives instructions on how to convert the
> motor into a mechanical shift for under $26! I peeled the cover of the
> vaccuum portion of the motor and sure enough, there was rust and other
> crud inside, along with a hole in the diaphram. The website for that
> conversion is http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm.
> I have begun the conversion and I am getting the supplies from the bike
> shop tomorrow. I am assuming that I should just place vaccuum plugs
> over all of the connections that are now going to be out of service, as
> the website does not say. Thanks again for the help and I will let you
> know how the mechanical version fairs.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Just plug the line going from the engine to the transfercase switch.
Should be a black plastic line heading off from the very back of the
engine on the driver's side.
big95yj wrote:
> Thanks for the good tips! I did do the check by lifting the vehicle and
> seeing if the wheel will lock. It doesn't :( I pulled the motor off
> after finding a website that gives instructions on how to convert the
> motor into a mechanical shift for under $26! I peeled the cover of the
> vaccuum portion of the motor and sure enough, there was rust and other
> crud inside, along with a hole in the diaphram. The website for that
> conversion is http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm.
> I have begun the conversion and I am getting the supplies from the bike
> shop tomorrow. I am assuming that I should just place vaccuum plugs
> over all of the connections that are now going to be out of service, as
> the website does not say. Thanks again for the help and I will let you
> know how the mechanical version fairs.
>
Should be a black plastic line heading off from the very back of the
engine on the driver's side.
big95yj wrote:
> Thanks for the good tips! I did do the check by lifting the vehicle and
> seeing if the wheel will lock. It doesn't :( I pulled the motor off
> after finding a website that gives instructions on how to convert the
> motor into a mechanical shift for under $26! I peeled the cover of the
> vaccuum portion of the motor and sure enough, there was rust and other
> crud inside, along with a hole in the diaphram. The website for that
> conversion is http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm.
> I have begun the conversion and I am getting the supplies from the bike
> shop tomorrow. I am assuming that I should just place vaccuum plugs
> over all of the connections that are now going to be out of service, as
> the website does not say. Thanks again for the help and I will let you
> know how the mechanical version fairs.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Just plug the line going from the engine to the transfercase switch.
Should be a black plastic line heading off from the very back of the
engine on the driver's side.
big95yj wrote:
> Thanks for the good tips! I did do the check by lifting the vehicle and
> seeing if the wheel will lock. It doesn't :( I pulled the motor off
> after finding a website that gives instructions on how to convert the
> motor into a mechanical shift for under $26! I peeled the cover of the
> vaccuum portion of the motor and sure enough, there was rust and other
> crud inside, along with a hole in the diaphram. The website for that
> conversion is http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm.
> I have begun the conversion and I am getting the supplies from the bike
> shop tomorrow. I am assuming that I should just place vaccuum plugs
> over all of the connections that are now going to be out of service, as
> the website does not say. Thanks again for the help and I will let you
> know how the mechanical version fairs.
>
Should be a black plastic line heading off from the very back of the
engine on the driver's side.
big95yj wrote:
> Thanks for the good tips! I did do the check by lifting the vehicle and
> seeing if the wheel will lock. It doesn't :( I pulled the motor off
> after finding a website that gives instructions on how to convert the
> motor into a mechanical shift for under $26! I peeled the cover of the
> vaccuum portion of the motor and sure enough, there was rust and other
> crud inside, along with a hole in the diaphram. The website for that
> conversion is http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm.
> I have begun the conversion and I am getting the supplies from the bike
> shop tomorrow. I am assuming that I should just place vaccuum plugs
> over all of the connections that are now going to be out of service, as
> the website does not say. Thanks again for the help and I will let you
> know how the mechanical version fairs.
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Nice find. I think I'd skip the bike shop, that cable's got be
bigger, strong enough to push the fork back a couple of inches:
http://home.earthlink.net/~stevensch...ech/pic7-1.JPG
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
big95yj wrote:
>
> Thanks for the good tips! I did do the check by lifting the vehicle and
> seeing if the wheel will lock. It doesn't :( I pulled the motor off
> after finding a website that gives instructions on how to convert the
> motor into a mechanical shift for under $26! I peeled the cover of the
> vaccuum portion of the motor and sure enough, there was rust and other
> crud inside, along with a hole in the diaphram. The website for that
> conversion is http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm.
> I have begun the conversion and I am getting the supplies from the bike
> shop tomorrow. I am assuming that I should just place vaccuum plugs
> over all of the connections that are now going to be out of service, as
> the website does not say. Thanks again for the help and I will let you
> know how the mechanical version fairs.
bigger, strong enough to push the fork back a couple of inches:
http://home.earthlink.net/~stevensch...ech/pic7-1.JPG
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
big95yj wrote:
>
> Thanks for the good tips! I did do the check by lifting the vehicle and
> seeing if the wheel will lock. It doesn't :( I pulled the motor off
> after finding a website that gives instructions on how to convert the
> motor into a mechanical shift for under $26! I peeled the cover of the
> vaccuum portion of the motor and sure enough, there was rust and other
> crud inside, along with a hole in the diaphram. The website for that
> conversion is http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm.
> I have begun the conversion and I am getting the supplies from the bike
> shop tomorrow. I am assuming that I should just place vaccuum plugs
> over all of the connections that are now going to be out of service, as
> the website does not say. Thanks again for the help and I will let you
> know how the mechanical version fairs.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Nice find. I think I'd skip the bike shop, that cable's got be
bigger, strong enough to push the fork back a couple of inches:
http://home.earthlink.net/~stevensch...ech/pic7-1.JPG
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
big95yj wrote:
>
> Thanks for the good tips! I did do the check by lifting the vehicle and
> seeing if the wheel will lock. It doesn't :( I pulled the motor off
> after finding a website that gives instructions on how to convert the
> motor into a mechanical shift for under $26! I peeled the cover of the
> vaccuum portion of the motor and sure enough, there was rust and other
> crud inside, along with a hole in the diaphram. The website for that
> conversion is http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm.
> I have begun the conversion and I am getting the supplies from the bike
> shop tomorrow. I am assuming that I should just place vaccuum plugs
> over all of the connections that are now going to be out of service, as
> the website does not say. Thanks again for the help and I will let you
> know how the mechanical version fairs.
bigger, strong enough to push the fork back a couple of inches:
http://home.earthlink.net/~stevensch...ech/pic7-1.JPG
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
big95yj wrote:
>
> Thanks for the good tips! I did do the check by lifting the vehicle and
> seeing if the wheel will lock. It doesn't :( I pulled the motor off
> after finding a website that gives instructions on how to convert the
> motor into a mechanical shift for under $26! I peeled the cover of the
> vaccuum portion of the motor and sure enough, there was rust and other
> crud inside, along with a hole in the diaphram. The website for that
> conversion is http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm.
> I have begun the conversion and I am getting the supplies from the bike
> shop tomorrow. I am assuming that I should just place vaccuum plugs
> over all of the connections that are now going to be out of service, as
> the website does not say. Thanks again for the help and I will let you
> know how the mechanical version fairs.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Nice find. I think I'd skip the bike shop, that cable's got be
bigger, strong enough to push the fork back a couple of inches:
http://home.earthlink.net/~stevensch...ech/pic7-1.JPG
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
big95yj wrote:
>
> Thanks for the good tips! I did do the check by lifting the vehicle and
> seeing if the wheel will lock. It doesn't :( I pulled the motor off
> after finding a website that gives instructions on how to convert the
> motor into a mechanical shift for under $26! I peeled the cover of the
> vaccuum portion of the motor and sure enough, there was rust and other
> crud inside, along with a hole in the diaphram. The website for that
> conversion is http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm.
> I have begun the conversion and I am getting the supplies from the bike
> shop tomorrow. I am assuming that I should just place vaccuum plugs
> over all of the connections that are now going to be out of service, as
> the website does not say. Thanks again for the help and I will let you
> know how the mechanical version fairs.
bigger, strong enough to push the fork back a couple of inches:
http://home.earthlink.net/~stevensch...ech/pic7-1.JPG
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
big95yj wrote:
>
> Thanks for the good tips! I did do the check by lifting the vehicle and
> seeing if the wheel will lock. It doesn't :( I pulled the motor off
> after finding a website that gives instructions on how to convert the
> motor into a mechanical shift for under $26! I peeled the cover of the
> vaccuum portion of the motor and sure enough, there was rust and other
> crud inside, along with a hole in the diaphram. The website for that
> conversion is http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm.
> I have begun the conversion and I am getting the supplies from the bike
> shop tomorrow. I am assuming that I should just place vaccuum plugs
> over all of the connections that are now going to be out of service, as
> the website does not say. Thanks again for the help and I will let you
> know how the mechanical version fairs.
Guest
Posts: n/a
If you wish you could bypass the vacuum system with a manual disconnect.
Engages and disengages the front axles using a cable instead of that
troublesome vacuum system. You can find them at Quadratec under posi lok
brand name or you can make one if your MacGyver.
-Brian
'91 YJ 4.0
"big95yj" <shewy14@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1111191648.850076.235590@l41g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
>I have a '95 Jeep Wrangler and I have been troubleshooting the four
> wheel drive system lately. I can move the shift lever as it should, I
> put a new transfer case vaccuum switch on it, I pulled all the vaccuum
> lines and tested them, I do get vaccuum down to the motor itself and it
> feels ok, I tested the wires going down to the motor and I have source
> voltage. Is there anything else I can do besides through a $100 axle
> shift motor? I would like that as a last result. Is there an electrical
> switch on the transfer case that could be the problem? I checked the
> 4WD light bulb and its ok. Can a low transfer case fluid level cause
> any of this? I would think the light would at least come on if the
> motor was working correctly. I'm at a loss, I would rather not put a
> motor on it, but if that is what it is.... Thanks for the help
>
>
> '95 Jeep Wrangler
> 4" RE suspension lift
> 1" shackle lift
> 3" body lift
> 35" M/T MTX's
> 4.88's with front Detroit Trutrac
>
Engages and disengages the front axles using a cable instead of that
troublesome vacuum system. You can find them at Quadratec under posi lok
brand name or you can make one if your MacGyver.
-Brian
'91 YJ 4.0
"big95yj" <shewy14@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1111191648.850076.235590@l41g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
>I have a '95 Jeep Wrangler and I have been troubleshooting the four
> wheel drive system lately. I can move the shift lever as it should, I
> put a new transfer case vaccuum switch on it, I pulled all the vaccuum
> lines and tested them, I do get vaccuum down to the motor itself and it
> feels ok, I tested the wires going down to the motor and I have source
> voltage. Is there anything else I can do besides through a $100 axle
> shift motor? I would like that as a last result. Is there an electrical
> switch on the transfer case that could be the problem? I checked the
> 4WD light bulb and its ok. Can a low transfer case fluid level cause
> any of this? I would think the light would at least come on if the
> motor was working correctly. I'm at a loss, I would rather not put a
> motor on it, but if that is what it is.... Thanks for the help
>
>
> '95 Jeep Wrangler
> 4" RE suspension lift
> 1" shackle lift
> 3" body lift
> 35" M/T MTX's
> 4.88's with front Detroit Trutrac
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
If you wish you could bypass the vacuum system with a manual disconnect.
Engages and disengages the front axles using a cable instead of that
troublesome vacuum system. You can find them at Quadratec under posi lok
brand name or you can make one if your MacGyver.
-Brian
'91 YJ 4.0
"big95yj" <shewy14@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1111191648.850076.235590@l41g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
>I have a '95 Jeep Wrangler and I have been troubleshooting the four
> wheel drive system lately. I can move the shift lever as it should, I
> put a new transfer case vaccuum switch on it, I pulled all the vaccuum
> lines and tested them, I do get vaccuum down to the motor itself and it
> feels ok, I tested the wires going down to the motor and I have source
> voltage. Is there anything else I can do besides through a $100 axle
> shift motor? I would like that as a last result. Is there an electrical
> switch on the transfer case that could be the problem? I checked the
> 4WD light bulb and its ok. Can a low transfer case fluid level cause
> any of this? I would think the light would at least come on if the
> motor was working correctly. I'm at a loss, I would rather not put a
> motor on it, but if that is what it is.... Thanks for the help
>
>
> '95 Jeep Wrangler
> 4" RE suspension lift
> 1" shackle lift
> 3" body lift
> 35" M/T MTX's
> 4.88's with front Detroit Trutrac
>
Engages and disengages the front axles using a cable instead of that
troublesome vacuum system. You can find them at Quadratec under posi lok
brand name or you can make one if your MacGyver.
-Brian
'91 YJ 4.0
"big95yj" <shewy14@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1111191648.850076.235590@l41g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
>I have a '95 Jeep Wrangler and I have been troubleshooting the four
> wheel drive system lately. I can move the shift lever as it should, I
> put a new transfer case vaccuum switch on it, I pulled all the vaccuum
> lines and tested them, I do get vaccuum down to the motor itself and it
> feels ok, I tested the wires going down to the motor and I have source
> voltage. Is there anything else I can do besides through a $100 axle
> shift motor? I would like that as a last result. Is there an electrical
> switch on the transfer case that could be the problem? I checked the
> 4WD light bulb and its ok. Can a low transfer case fluid level cause
> any of this? I would think the light would at least come on if the
> motor was working correctly. I'm at a loss, I would rather not put a
> motor on it, but if that is what it is.... Thanks for the help
>
>
> '95 Jeep Wrangler
> 4" RE suspension lift
> 1" shackle lift
> 3" body lift
> 35" M/T MTX's
> 4.88's with front Detroit Trutrac
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
If you wish you could bypass the vacuum system with a manual disconnect.
Engages and disengages the front axles using a cable instead of that
troublesome vacuum system. You can find them at Quadratec under posi lok
brand name or you can make one if your MacGyver.
-Brian
'91 YJ 4.0
"big95yj" <shewy14@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1111191648.850076.235590@l41g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
>I have a '95 Jeep Wrangler and I have been troubleshooting the four
> wheel drive system lately. I can move the shift lever as it should, I
> put a new transfer case vaccuum switch on it, I pulled all the vaccuum
> lines and tested them, I do get vaccuum down to the motor itself and it
> feels ok, I tested the wires going down to the motor and I have source
> voltage. Is there anything else I can do besides through a $100 axle
> shift motor? I would like that as a last result. Is there an electrical
> switch on the transfer case that could be the problem? I checked the
> 4WD light bulb and its ok. Can a low transfer case fluid level cause
> any of this? I would think the light would at least come on if the
> motor was working correctly. I'm at a loss, I would rather not put a
> motor on it, but if that is what it is.... Thanks for the help
>
>
> '95 Jeep Wrangler
> 4" RE suspension lift
> 1" shackle lift
> 3" body lift
> 35" M/T MTX's
> 4.88's with front Detroit Trutrac
>
Engages and disengages the front axles using a cable instead of that
troublesome vacuum system. You can find them at Quadratec under posi lok
brand name or you can make one if your MacGyver.
-Brian
'91 YJ 4.0
"big95yj" <shewy14@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1111191648.850076.235590@l41g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
>I have a '95 Jeep Wrangler and I have been troubleshooting the four
> wheel drive system lately. I can move the shift lever as it should, I
> put a new transfer case vaccuum switch on it, I pulled all the vaccuum
> lines and tested them, I do get vaccuum down to the motor itself and it
> feels ok, I tested the wires going down to the motor and I have source
> voltage. Is there anything else I can do besides through a $100 axle
> shift motor? I would like that as a last result. Is there an electrical
> switch on the transfer case that could be the problem? I checked the
> 4WD light bulb and its ok. Can a low transfer case fluid level cause
> any of this? I would think the light would at least come on if the
> motor was working correctly. I'm at a loss, I would rather not put a
> motor on it, but if that is what it is.... Thanks for the help
>
>
> '95 Jeep Wrangler
> 4" RE suspension lift
> 1" shackle lift
> 3" body lift
> 35" M/T MTX's
> 4.88's with front Detroit Trutrac
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Agreed. I used a power take-off cable with a solid core thick enough to
push the fork without the aid of a spring. It's nice to be able to feel
the fork moving as opposed to just releasing tension on a soft cable and
wondering if the spring has done its job.
http://xjeep.dyndns.org/posilok/
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> I think I'd skip the bike shop, that cable's got be bigger, strong
> enough to push the fork back a couple of inches
push the fork without the aid of a spring. It's nice to be able to feel
the fork moving as opposed to just releasing tension on a soft cable and
wondering if the spring has done its job.
http://xjeep.dyndns.org/posilok/
Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> I think I'd skip the bike shop, that cable's got be bigger, strong
> enough to push the fork back a couple of inches


