Old Crow

On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 02:07:17 GMT, Ryan <no.email@please> wrote:


>Also, why is Advance Auto listing two different temp senders for a 96
>ZJ? Is there another sender besides the one on the head by the firewall
>that I don't know about?
>

My wife's '93 XJ 4.0 has two temp senders. One in the t/stat housing
with 2 wires, used by the PCM, and another, in the back corner of the
head behind the intake, with one wire used for the gauge on the dash.
--
Old Crow
'82 Shovelhead FLT 92" 'Pearl'
'95 Jeep YJ Rio Grande
ASE Certified Master Auto Tech + L1
TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51

Old Crow

On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 02:07:17 GMT, Ryan <no.email@please> wrote:


>Also, why is Advance Auto listing two different temp senders for a 96
>ZJ? Is there another sender besides the one on the head by the firewall
>that I don't know about?
>

My wife's '93 XJ 4.0 has two temp senders. One in the t/stat housing
with 2 wires, used by the PCM, and another, in the back corner of the
head behind the intake, with one wire used for the gauge on the dash.
--
Old Crow
'82 Shovelhead FLT 92" 'Pearl'
'95 Jeep YJ Rio Grande
ASE Certified Master Auto Tech + L1
TOMKAT, BS#133, SENS, MAMBM, DOF#51

Mike Romain

Are you using the pump for the ZJ engine? If so no issues.

The sender is my guess. No way you can open the rad cap on an engine
running at 210 or more, let alone stick your finger in the coolant.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Ryan wrote:
>
> I don't think I'm turning the pump backwards because I bought the belt
> for the 96 ZJ. Plus, all the grooved pullies are touching the grooved
> ide of the belt. I'll doublecheck it though. Thanks.
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> > That's my guess, Ryan's using his YJ's "V" belt on a reverse pump.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > "L0nD0t.$t0we11" wrote:
> >
> >> ? Serpentine belt turning the water pump bassackwards ?
> >>
> >>--
> >>Now that Spirit Rover has confirmed the presence of weapons of
> >>mass destruction on Mars, we are preparing to invade...

Mike Romain

Are you using the pump for the ZJ engine? If so no issues.

The sender is my guess. No way you can open the rad cap on an engine
running at 210 or more, let alone stick your finger in the coolant.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Ryan wrote:
>
> I don't think I'm turning the pump backwards because I bought the belt
> for the 96 ZJ. Plus, all the grooved pullies are touching the grooved
> ide of the belt. I'll doublecheck it though. Thanks.
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> > That's my guess, Ryan's using his YJ's "V" belt on a reverse pump.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > "L0nD0t.$t0we11" wrote:
> >
> >> ? Serpentine belt turning the water pump bassackwards ?
> >>
> >>--
> >>Now that Spirit Rover has confirmed the presence of weapons of
> >>mass destruction on Mars, we are preparing to invade...

Mike Romain

Are you using the pump for the ZJ engine? If so no issues.

The sender is my guess. No way you can open the rad cap on an engine
running at 210 or more, let alone stick your finger in the coolant.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Ryan wrote:
>
> I don't think I'm turning the pump backwards because I bought the belt
> for the 96 ZJ. Plus, all the grooved pullies are touching the grooved
> ide of the belt. I'll doublecheck it though. Thanks.
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> > That's my guess, Ryan's using his YJ's "V" belt on a reverse pump.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > "L0nD0t.$t0we11" wrote:
> >
> >> ? Serpentine belt turning the water pump bassackwards ?
> >>
> >>--
> >>Now that Spirit Rover has confirmed the presence of weapons of
> >>mass destruction on Mars, we are preparing to invade...

bowgus

My XJ runs at 100C (212F) plus a bit on hot days idling ... and what then
happens is the electric cooling fan comes on to knock the temp down. So from
my stock 4.0L experience, the temp is normal (100C), but the fan is required
should you exceed it.



"Ryan" <no.email@please> wrote in message
news:fWDQb.112897$sv6.579153@attbi_s52...
> Hi,
>
> I'm having a weird overheating problem and I need a little help. First,
> the details. I have an 87 YJ and I just finished putting a 4.0L into it
> from a 96 ZJ donor. The swap went well except that the motor "appears"
> to be overheating. I am running the new engine with my original radiator
> (never had heat problems before).
>
> After running it for a few minutes the temp gauge starts to climb up
> towards red line. However, the engine shows no physical signs of
> overheating. I can touch the head (front and back) and it's not very hot
> at all. Also, I can open the radiator cap and actually stick my finger
> in the coolant for a second or so. The is all while the temp gauge is
> reading about 210-220.
>
> I thought perhaps the coolant wasn't flowing, but I felt the large hose
> on top and the two hoses to and from the heater core. All three were
> pretty warm. The bottom radiator hose was warm too, but not as warm as
> the top hose (I think). Also the radiator itself was pretty warm
> indicating at least some circulation.
>
> I've put the front wheels on ramps in case I had an air bubble in the
> pump, but it didn't help any. Also, I looked in the radiator while the
> engine was running, and couldn't really see fluid flowing. Should I be
> able to see this?
>
> Final notes - I have a bit of belt squeal at initial startup, but all
> the pullies are moving. Also, keep in mind that all this is happening in
> 15* degree weather.
>
> What do you guys think? Any ideas? Your help is greatly appreciated.
>
> Ryan

bowgus

My XJ runs at 100C (212F) plus a bit on hot days idling ... and what then
happens is the electric cooling fan comes on to knock the temp down. So from
my stock 4.0L experience, the temp is normal (100C), but the fan is required
should you exceed it.



"Ryan" <no.email@please> wrote in message
news:fWDQb.112897$sv6.579153@attbi_s52...
> Hi,
>
> I'm having a weird overheating problem and I need a little help. First,
> the details. I have an 87 YJ and I just finished putting a 4.0L into it
> from a 96 ZJ donor. The swap went well except that the motor "appears"
> to be overheating. I am running the new engine with my original radiator
> (never had heat problems before).
>
> After running it for a few minutes the temp gauge starts to climb up
> towards red line. However, the engine shows no physical signs of
> overheating. I can touch the head (front and back) and it's not very hot
> at all. Also, I can open the radiator cap and actually stick my finger
> in the coolant for a second or so. The is all while the temp gauge is
> reading about 210-220.
>
> I thought perhaps the coolant wasn't flowing, but I felt the large hose
> on top and the two hoses to and from the heater core. All three were
> pretty warm. The bottom radiator hose was warm too, but not as warm as
> the top hose (I think). Also the radiator itself was pretty warm
> indicating at least some circulation.
>
> I've put the front wheels on ramps in case I had an air bubble in the
> pump, but it didn't help any. Also, I looked in the radiator while the
> engine was running, and couldn't really see fluid flowing. Should I be
> able to see this?
>
> Final notes - I have a bit of belt squeal at initial startup, but all
> the pullies are moving. Also, keep in mind that all this is happening in
> 15* degree weather.
>
> What do you guys think? Any ideas? Your help is greatly appreciated.
>
> Ryan

bowgus

My XJ runs at 100C (212F) plus a bit on hot days idling ... and what then
happens is the electric cooling fan comes on to knock the temp down. So from
my stock 4.0L experience, the temp is normal (100C), but the fan is required
should you exceed it.



"Ryan" <no.email@please> wrote in message
news:fWDQb.112897$sv6.579153@attbi_s52...
> Hi,
>
> I'm having a weird overheating problem and I need a little help. First,
> the details. I have an 87 YJ and I just finished putting a 4.0L into it
> from a 96 ZJ donor. The swap went well except that the motor "appears"
> to be overheating. I am running the new engine with my original radiator
> (never had heat problems before).
>
> After running it for a few minutes the temp gauge starts to climb up
> towards red line. However, the engine shows no physical signs of
> overheating. I can touch the head (front and back) and it's not very hot
> at all. Also, I can open the radiator cap and actually stick my finger
> in the coolant for a second or so. The is all while the temp gauge is
> reading about 210-220.
>
> I thought perhaps the coolant wasn't flowing, but I felt the large hose
> on top and the two hoses to and from the heater core. All three were
> pretty warm. The bottom radiator hose was warm too, but not as warm as
> the top hose (I think). Also the radiator itself was pretty warm
> indicating at least some circulation.
>
> I've put the front wheels on ramps in case I had an air bubble in the
> pump, but it didn't help any. Also, I looked in the radiator while the
> engine was running, and couldn't really see fluid flowing. Should I be
> able to see this?
>
> Final notes - I have a bit of belt squeal at initial startup, but all
> the pullies are moving. Also, keep in mind that all this is happening in
> 15* degree weather.
>
> What do you guys think? Any ideas? Your help is greatly appreciated.
>
> Ryan

L0nD0t.$t0we11

Roughly 1/24/04 18:50, Ryan's monkeys randomly typed:

> I don't think I'm turning the pump backwards because I bought the belt
> for the 96 ZJ. Plus, all the grooved pullies are touching the grooved
> ide of the belt. I'll doublecheck it though. Thanks.

The pump should have had an "R" stamped on the impeller. The
pump should be turning widdershins [counterclockwise] as viewed
from the front of the engine. The '95 FSM also notes that the
viscous fan clutch is unique for the 4.0 in the ZJ's.

The temp sensor at the thermostat housing has a chart of
temperature versus resistance that you can check with a
cheap meter.

32 F 29.3K to 35.9K ohm
68 F 11.3K to 13.6K ohm
140 F 2.3K to 2.7K ohm
194 F 860 ohm to 970 ohm
212 F 640 ohm to 720 ohm

With the general statement that the temp sensor should read
less than 1K [1,000] ohms with the engine at normal operating
temp... about 190 degrees.

--
Now that Spirit Rover has confirmed the presence of weapons of
mass destruction on Mars, we are preparing to invade...

L0nD0t.$t0we11

Roughly 1/24/04 18:50, Ryan's monkeys randomly typed:

> I don't think I'm turning the pump backwards because I bought the belt
> for the 96 ZJ. Plus, all the grooved pullies are touching the grooved
> ide of the belt. I'll doublecheck it though. Thanks.

The pump should have had an "R" stamped on the impeller. The
pump should be turning widdershins [counterclockwise] as viewed
from the front of the engine. The '95 FSM also notes that the
viscous fan clutch is unique for the 4.0 in the ZJ's.

The temp sensor at the thermostat housing has a chart of
temperature versus resistance that you can check with a
cheap meter.

32 F 29.3K to 35.9K ohm
68 F 11.3K to 13.6K ohm
140 F 2.3K to 2.7K ohm
194 F 860 ohm to 970 ohm
212 F 640 ohm to 720 ohm

With the general statement that the temp sensor should read
less than 1K [1,000] ohms with the engine at normal operating
temp... about 190 degrees.

--
Now that Spirit Rover has confirmed the presence of weapons of
mass destruction on Mars, we are preparing to invade...