4.0 light miss
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 4.0 light miss
JeffDeWitt wrote:
> I might go ahead and put a new coil on anyway, it's easy and it IS the
> orginal coil so it shouldn't hurt to put in a new one, and as Doug
> points out it's not bad to have a spare.
Double check the part but I used the NAPA part ECHIC409. It's the
same one that was used for a recall Jeep had a long time back. Comes
with a coil and adapter harness. You have to use the harness with this
coil as it contains a balast resistor.
Other than that it depends on if you have blades or pins. My factory
connector is pins, the later model is blade.
> I've also wondered about that fuel pump, it's orginal too, looks like
> a new pump is about $100 and a gage to check the old one is about $35
> so maybe it would be a good idea to just replace the pump but I can't
> say I'm thrilled about the idea... somehow I expect that pump is a LOT
> harder to replace than the one on my Studebaker truck (two fittings,
> two bolts, 15 min.).
Fuel pump pressure is easy to check if you have an old R-12 gauge
or stop by autozone (or sears) and buy one. Just hook it up and
duct tape it to the windshield.
My pump still works. Generally if the filter is clogged or the pump is
shot, you will get real bad ping under load and at wide-open-throttle.
Both times I've gotten ping at WOT it's been due to a clogged filter.
http://revbeergoggles.com/badgas/
--
DougW
> I might go ahead and put a new coil on anyway, it's easy and it IS the
> orginal coil so it shouldn't hurt to put in a new one, and as Doug
> points out it's not bad to have a spare.
Double check the part but I used the NAPA part ECHIC409. It's the
same one that was used for a recall Jeep had a long time back. Comes
with a coil and adapter harness. You have to use the harness with this
coil as it contains a balast resistor.
Other than that it depends on if you have blades or pins. My factory
connector is pins, the later model is blade.
> I've also wondered about that fuel pump, it's orginal too, looks like
> a new pump is about $100 and a gage to check the old one is about $35
> so maybe it would be a good idea to just replace the pump but I can't
> say I'm thrilled about the idea... somehow I expect that pump is a LOT
> harder to replace than the one on my Studebaker truck (two fittings,
> two bolts, 15 min.).
Fuel pump pressure is easy to check if you have an old R-12 gauge
or stop by autozone (or sears) and buy one. Just hook it up and
duct tape it to the windshield.
My pump still works. Generally if the filter is clogged or the pump is
shot, you will get real bad ping under load and at wide-open-throttle.
Both times I've gotten ping at WOT it's been due to a clogged filter.
http://revbeergoggles.com/badgas/
--
DougW
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 4.0 light miss
JeffDeWitt wrote:
> I might go ahead and put a new coil on anyway, it's easy and it IS the
> orginal coil so it shouldn't hurt to put in a new one, and as Doug
> points out it's not bad to have a spare.
Double check the part but I used the NAPA part ECHIC409. It's the
same one that was used for a recall Jeep had a long time back. Comes
with a coil and adapter harness. You have to use the harness with this
coil as it contains a balast resistor.
Other than that it depends on if you have blades or pins. My factory
connector is pins, the later model is blade.
> I've also wondered about that fuel pump, it's orginal too, looks like
> a new pump is about $100 and a gage to check the old one is about $35
> so maybe it would be a good idea to just replace the pump but I can't
> say I'm thrilled about the idea... somehow I expect that pump is a LOT
> harder to replace than the one on my Studebaker truck (two fittings,
> two bolts, 15 min.).
Fuel pump pressure is easy to check if you have an old R-12 gauge
or stop by autozone (or sears) and buy one. Just hook it up and
duct tape it to the windshield.
My pump still works. Generally if the filter is clogged or the pump is
shot, you will get real bad ping under load and at wide-open-throttle.
Both times I've gotten ping at WOT it's been due to a clogged filter.
http://revbeergoggles.com/badgas/
--
DougW
> I might go ahead and put a new coil on anyway, it's easy and it IS the
> orginal coil so it shouldn't hurt to put in a new one, and as Doug
> points out it's not bad to have a spare.
Double check the part but I used the NAPA part ECHIC409. It's the
same one that was used for a recall Jeep had a long time back. Comes
with a coil and adapter harness. You have to use the harness with this
coil as it contains a balast resistor.
Other than that it depends on if you have blades or pins. My factory
connector is pins, the later model is blade.
> I've also wondered about that fuel pump, it's orginal too, looks like
> a new pump is about $100 and a gage to check the old one is about $35
> so maybe it would be a good idea to just replace the pump but I can't
> say I'm thrilled about the idea... somehow I expect that pump is a LOT
> harder to replace than the one on my Studebaker truck (two fittings,
> two bolts, 15 min.).
Fuel pump pressure is easy to check if you have an old R-12 gauge
or stop by autozone (or sears) and buy one. Just hook it up and
duct tape it to the windshield.
My pump still works. Generally if the filter is clogged or the pump is
shot, you will get real bad ping under load and at wide-open-throttle.
Both times I've gotten ping at WOT it's been due to a clogged filter.
http://revbeergoggles.com/badgas/
--
DougW
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 4.0 light miss
Hmm, picked up a new coil on the way home from work yesterday, nothing
in the box but the coil, and it was a Borg-Warner brand coil.
Since when did Borg-Warner start making ignition parts?
I believe mine has the blade pins.
Jeff DeWitt
DougW wrote:
> JeffDeWitt wrote:
> > I might go ahead and put a new coil on anyway, it's easy and it IS the
> > orginal coil so it shouldn't hurt to put in a new one, and as Doug
> > points out it's not bad to have a spare.
>
> Double check the part but I used the NAPA part ECHIC409. It's the
> same one that was used for a recall Jeep had a long time back. Comes
> with a coil and adapter harness. You have to use the harness with this
> coil as it contains a balast resistor.
>
> Other than that it depends on if you have blades or pins. My factory
> connector is pins, the later model is blade.
>
> > I've also wondered about that fuel pump, it's orginal too, looks like
> > a new pump is about $100 and a gage to check the old one is about $35
> > so maybe it would be a good idea to just replace the pump but I can't
> > say I'm thrilled about the idea... somehow I expect that pump is a LOT
> > harder to replace than the one on my Studebaker truck (two fittings,
> > two bolts, 15 min.).
>
> Fuel pump pressure is easy to check if you have an old R-12 gauge
> or stop by autozone (or sears) and buy one. Just hook it up and
> duct tape it to the windshield.
>
> My pump still works. Generally if the filter is clogged or the pump is
> shot, you will get real bad ping under load and at wide-open-throttle.
> Both times I've gotten ping at WOT it's been due to a clogged filter.
> http://revbeergoggles.com/badgas/
>
>
> --
> DougW
in the box but the coil, and it was a Borg-Warner brand coil.
Since when did Borg-Warner start making ignition parts?
I believe mine has the blade pins.
Jeff DeWitt
DougW wrote:
> JeffDeWitt wrote:
> > I might go ahead and put a new coil on anyway, it's easy and it IS the
> > orginal coil so it shouldn't hurt to put in a new one, and as Doug
> > points out it's not bad to have a spare.
>
> Double check the part but I used the NAPA part ECHIC409. It's the
> same one that was used for a recall Jeep had a long time back. Comes
> with a coil and adapter harness. You have to use the harness with this
> coil as it contains a balast resistor.
>
> Other than that it depends on if you have blades or pins. My factory
> connector is pins, the later model is blade.
>
> > I've also wondered about that fuel pump, it's orginal too, looks like
> > a new pump is about $100 and a gage to check the old one is about $35
> > so maybe it would be a good idea to just replace the pump but I can't
> > say I'm thrilled about the idea... somehow I expect that pump is a LOT
> > harder to replace than the one on my Studebaker truck (two fittings,
> > two bolts, 15 min.).
>
> Fuel pump pressure is easy to check if you have an old R-12 gauge
> or stop by autozone (or sears) and buy one. Just hook it up and
> duct tape it to the windshield.
>
> My pump still works. Generally if the filter is clogged or the pump is
> shot, you will get real bad ping under load and at wide-open-throttle.
> Both times I've gotten ping at WOT it's been due to a clogged filter.
> http://revbeergoggles.com/badgas/
>
>
> --
> DougW
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 4.0 light miss
Hmm, picked up a new coil on the way home from work yesterday, nothing
in the box but the coil, and it was a Borg-Warner brand coil.
Since when did Borg-Warner start making ignition parts?
I believe mine has the blade pins.
Jeff DeWitt
DougW wrote:
> JeffDeWitt wrote:
> > I might go ahead and put a new coil on anyway, it's easy and it IS the
> > orginal coil so it shouldn't hurt to put in a new one, and as Doug
> > points out it's not bad to have a spare.
>
> Double check the part but I used the NAPA part ECHIC409. It's the
> same one that was used for a recall Jeep had a long time back. Comes
> with a coil and adapter harness. You have to use the harness with this
> coil as it contains a balast resistor.
>
> Other than that it depends on if you have blades or pins. My factory
> connector is pins, the later model is blade.
>
> > I've also wondered about that fuel pump, it's orginal too, looks like
> > a new pump is about $100 and a gage to check the old one is about $35
> > so maybe it would be a good idea to just replace the pump but I can't
> > say I'm thrilled about the idea... somehow I expect that pump is a LOT
> > harder to replace than the one on my Studebaker truck (two fittings,
> > two bolts, 15 min.).
>
> Fuel pump pressure is easy to check if you have an old R-12 gauge
> or stop by autozone (or sears) and buy one. Just hook it up and
> duct tape it to the windshield.
>
> My pump still works. Generally if the filter is clogged or the pump is
> shot, you will get real bad ping under load and at wide-open-throttle.
> Both times I've gotten ping at WOT it's been due to a clogged filter.
> http://revbeergoggles.com/badgas/
>
>
> --
> DougW
in the box but the coil, and it was a Borg-Warner brand coil.
Since when did Borg-Warner start making ignition parts?
I believe mine has the blade pins.
Jeff DeWitt
DougW wrote:
> JeffDeWitt wrote:
> > I might go ahead and put a new coil on anyway, it's easy and it IS the
> > orginal coil so it shouldn't hurt to put in a new one, and as Doug
> > points out it's not bad to have a spare.
>
> Double check the part but I used the NAPA part ECHIC409. It's the
> same one that was used for a recall Jeep had a long time back. Comes
> with a coil and adapter harness. You have to use the harness with this
> coil as it contains a balast resistor.
>
> Other than that it depends on if you have blades or pins. My factory
> connector is pins, the later model is blade.
>
> > I've also wondered about that fuel pump, it's orginal too, looks like
> > a new pump is about $100 and a gage to check the old one is about $35
> > so maybe it would be a good idea to just replace the pump but I can't
> > say I'm thrilled about the idea... somehow I expect that pump is a LOT
> > harder to replace than the one on my Studebaker truck (two fittings,
> > two bolts, 15 min.).
>
> Fuel pump pressure is easy to check if you have an old R-12 gauge
> or stop by autozone (or sears) and buy one. Just hook it up and
> duct tape it to the windshield.
>
> My pump still works. Generally if the filter is clogged or the pump is
> shot, you will get real bad ping under load and at wide-open-throttle.
> Both times I've gotten ping at WOT it's been due to a clogged filter.
> http://revbeergoggles.com/badgas/
>
>
> --
> DougW
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 4.0 light miss
Hmm, picked up a new coil on the way home from work yesterday, nothing
in the box but the coil, and it was a Borg-Warner brand coil.
Since when did Borg-Warner start making ignition parts?
I believe mine has the blade pins.
Jeff DeWitt
DougW wrote:
> JeffDeWitt wrote:
> > I might go ahead and put a new coil on anyway, it's easy and it IS the
> > orginal coil so it shouldn't hurt to put in a new one, and as Doug
> > points out it's not bad to have a spare.
>
> Double check the part but I used the NAPA part ECHIC409. It's the
> same one that was used for a recall Jeep had a long time back. Comes
> with a coil and adapter harness. You have to use the harness with this
> coil as it contains a balast resistor.
>
> Other than that it depends on if you have blades or pins. My factory
> connector is pins, the later model is blade.
>
> > I've also wondered about that fuel pump, it's orginal too, looks like
> > a new pump is about $100 and a gage to check the old one is about $35
> > so maybe it would be a good idea to just replace the pump but I can't
> > say I'm thrilled about the idea... somehow I expect that pump is a LOT
> > harder to replace than the one on my Studebaker truck (two fittings,
> > two bolts, 15 min.).
>
> Fuel pump pressure is easy to check if you have an old R-12 gauge
> or stop by autozone (or sears) and buy one. Just hook it up and
> duct tape it to the windshield.
>
> My pump still works. Generally if the filter is clogged or the pump is
> shot, you will get real bad ping under load and at wide-open-throttle.
> Both times I've gotten ping at WOT it's been due to a clogged filter.
> http://revbeergoggles.com/badgas/
>
>
> --
> DougW
in the box but the coil, and it was a Borg-Warner brand coil.
Since when did Borg-Warner start making ignition parts?
I believe mine has the blade pins.
Jeff DeWitt
DougW wrote:
> JeffDeWitt wrote:
> > I might go ahead and put a new coil on anyway, it's easy and it IS the
> > orginal coil so it shouldn't hurt to put in a new one, and as Doug
> > points out it's not bad to have a spare.
>
> Double check the part but I used the NAPA part ECHIC409. It's the
> same one that was used for a recall Jeep had a long time back. Comes
> with a coil and adapter harness. You have to use the harness with this
> coil as it contains a balast resistor.
>
> Other than that it depends on if you have blades or pins. My factory
> connector is pins, the later model is blade.
>
> > I've also wondered about that fuel pump, it's orginal too, looks like
> > a new pump is about $100 and a gage to check the old one is about $35
> > so maybe it would be a good idea to just replace the pump but I can't
> > say I'm thrilled about the idea... somehow I expect that pump is a LOT
> > harder to replace than the one on my Studebaker truck (two fittings,
> > two bolts, 15 min.).
>
> Fuel pump pressure is easy to check if you have an old R-12 gauge
> or stop by autozone (or sears) and buy one. Just hook it up and
> duct tape it to the windshield.
>
> My pump still works. Generally if the filter is clogged or the pump is
> shot, you will get real bad ping under load and at wide-open-throttle.
> Both times I've gotten ping at WOT it's been due to a clogged filter.
> http://revbeergoggles.com/badgas/
>
>
> --
> DougW
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