Re: 4.0 head to 4.2 block conversion
Thanks Bill. What was your end result? Are you happy with it? Was it worth
the work? Rich "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:2hej47FbjtsrU1@uni-berlin.de... > Well, I had the machinist do mine and he told me he used the 4.2L push rods. > I used the recommended 4.0L block cast # 7120. Had a 3 angle valve job done > on it and the water jackets were sealed by the previous owner as he was > going to do this swap but changed his mind. > > Other than that, every thing else was stock 4.2L parts on the short block > and stock parts on the 4.0L head. No changes to the valve train. > > It depends on where you get your exhaust manifold. I got mine from > http://www.1aauto.com/ and had to add the O2 sensor bug. > > I also had to modify my tail pipe to fit to the new exhaust manifold. I had > to get a new 'donut' fitting to marry to the exhaust pipe. > > Just a bunch of little things which did add up. > > Bill > > > > "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message > news:_w7sc.56165$jS4.32409@newssvr29.news.prodigy. com... > > richard-check out this site: > > http://www.sierrajeep.com > > > > as far as i know, you should be able to use the stock lifters and > pushrods. > > unless you have the head milled a lot. i'm going to be doing this swap > > (along with rebuilt block and 258) in a few months. i'll post the > results. > > william oliveri in this group has done the swap. > > > > try here too: > > http://www.cjoffroad.com > > > > they have a section called "4.0 something..." do a search in there. good > > luck! > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > > news:PTyrc.561$wO4.248@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > Anyone out there dome a 4.0 head conversion on a 258 engine? I know > about > > > the water jacket passages that need blocking and exhaust manifold and > > valve > > > covers need replacing but what else? It just seems too easy....or is it > > that > > > easy? I've read a number of articles on the net but none seem to mention > > > about any valvetrain mods needed to do the job. I can't imagine that the > > > rods just go right in without change... and how did you check to make > sure > > > the valves opened correctly? Any feedback would be helpful. > > > Thanks, > > > Rich > > > 86 CJ7 1"body lift, 2-1/2"YJ spring Rubicon express lift, Detroits front > > and > > > rear, 4:10 gears, 1pc axles, Mopar MPFI and other miscellaneous offroad > > > related crap. > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: 4.0 head to 4.2 block conversion
Thanks Bill. What was your end result? Are you happy with it? Was it worth
the work? Rich "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:2hej47FbjtsrU1@uni-berlin.de... > Well, I had the machinist do mine and he told me he used the 4.2L push rods. > I used the recommended 4.0L block cast # 7120. Had a 3 angle valve job done > on it and the water jackets were sealed by the previous owner as he was > going to do this swap but changed his mind. > > Other than that, every thing else was stock 4.2L parts on the short block > and stock parts on the 4.0L head. No changes to the valve train. > > It depends on where you get your exhaust manifold. I got mine from > http://www.1aauto.com/ and had to add the O2 sensor bug. > > I also had to modify my tail pipe to fit to the new exhaust manifold. I had > to get a new 'donut' fitting to marry to the exhaust pipe. > > Just a bunch of little things which did add up. > > Bill > > > > "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message > news:_w7sc.56165$jS4.32409@newssvr29.news.prodigy. com... > > richard-check out this site: > > http://www.sierrajeep.com > > > > as far as i know, you should be able to use the stock lifters and > pushrods. > > unless you have the head milled a lot. i'm going to be doing this swap > > (along with rebuilt block and 258) in a few months. i'll post the > results. > > william oliveri in this group has done the swap. > > > > try here too: > > http://www.cjoffroad.com > > > > they have a section called "4.0 something..." do a search in there. good > > luck! > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > > news:PTyrc.561$wO4.248@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > Anyone out there dome a 4.0 head conversion on a 258 engine? I know > about > > > the water jacket passages that need blocking and exhaust manifold and > > valve > > > covers need replacing but what else? It just seems too easy....or is it > > that > > > easy? I've read a number of articles on the net but none seem to mention > > > about any valvetrain mods needed to do the job. I can't imagine that the > > > rods just go right in without change... and how did you check to make > sure > > > the valves opened correctly? Any feedback would be helpful. > > > Thanks, > > > Rich > > > 86 CJ7 1"body lift, 2-1/2"YJ spring Rubicon express lift, Detroits front > > and > > > rear, 4:10 gears, 1pc axles, Mopar MPFI and other miscellaneous offroad > > > related crap. > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: 4.0 head to 4.2 block conversion
Thanks Bill. What was your end result? Are you happy with it? Was it worth
the work? Rich "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:2hej47FbjtsrU1@uni-berlin.de... > Well, I had the machinist do mine and he told me he used the 4.2L push rods. > I used the recommended 4.0L block cast # 7120. Had a 3 angle valve job done > on it and the water jackets were sealed by the previous owner as he was > going to do this swap but changed his mind. > > Other than that, every thing else was stock 4.2L parts on the short block > and stock parts on the 4.0L head. No changes to the valve train. > > It depends on where you get your exhaust manifold. I got mine from > http://www.1aauto.com/ and had to add the O2 sensor bug. > > I also had to modify my tail pipe to fit to the new exhaust manifold. I had > to get a new 'donut' fitting to marry to the exhaust pipe. > > Just a bunch of little things which did add up. > > Bill > > > > "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message > news:_w7sc.56165$jS4.32409@newssvr29.news.prodigy. com... > > richard-check out this site: > > http://www.sierrajeep.com > > > > as far as i know, you should be able to use the stock lifters and > pushrods. > > unless you have the head milled a lot. i'm going to be doing this swap > > (along with rebuilt block and 258) in a few months. i'll post the > results. > > william oliveri in this group has done the swap. > > > > try here too: > > http://www.cjoffroad.com > > > > they have a section called "4.0 something..." do a search in there. good > > luck! > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > > news:PTyrc.561$wO4.248@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > Anyone out there dome a 4.0 head conversion on a 258 engine? I know > about > > > the water jacket passages that need blocking and exhaust manifold and > > valve > > > covers need replacing but what else? It just seems too easy....or is it > > that > > > easy? I've read a number of articles on the net but none seem to mention > > > about any valvetrain mods needed to do the job. I can't imagine that the > > > rods just go right in without change... and how did you check to make > sure > > > the valves opened correctly? Any feedback would be helpful. > > > Thanks, > > > Rich > > > 86 CJ7 1"body lift, 2-1/2"YJ spring Rubicon express lift, Detroits front > > and > > > rear, 4:10 gears, 1pc axles, Mopar MPFI and other miscellaneous offroad > > > related crap. > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: 4.0 head to 4.2 block conversion
I can't give you a clear picture yet as I'm still breaking it in and I need
to get a CV Shaft to tone down the drive shaft vibration after I added my 4" lift kit. I get this vibration at around 40 mph so I'm being delicate with it now. I can let you know further on down the road. Bill "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message news:P%usc.391$eQ5.92@twister.socal.rr.com... > Thanks Bill. What was your end result? Are you happy with it? Was it worth > the work? > Rich > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:2hej47FbjtsrU1@uni-berlin.de... > > Well, I had the machinist do mine and he told me he used the 4.2L push > rods. > > I used the recommended 4.0L block cast # 7120. Had a 3 angle valve job > done > > on it and the water jackets were sealed by the previous owner as he was > > going to do this swap but changed his mind. > > > > Other than that, every thing else was stock 4.2L parts on the short block > > and stock parts on the 4.0L head. No changes to the valve train. > > > > It depends on where you get your exhaust manifold. I got mine from > > http://www.1aauto.com/ and had to add the O2 sensor bug. > > > > I also had to modify my tail pipe to fit to the new exhaust manifold. I > had > > to get a new 'donut' fitting to marry to the exhaust pipe. > > > > Just a bunch of little things which did add up. > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message > > news:_w7sc.56165$jS4.32409@newssvr29.news.prodigy. com... > > > richard-check out this site: > > > http://www.sierrajeep.com > > > > > > as far as i know, you should be able to use the stock lifters and > > pushrods. > > > unless you have the head milled a lot. i'm going to be doing this swap > > > (along with rebuilt block and 258) in a few months. i'll post the > > results. > > > william oliveri in this group has done the swap. > > > > > > try here too: > > > http://www.cjoffroad.com > > > > > > they have a section called "4.0 something..." do a search in there. > good > > > luck! > > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > > > news:PTyrc.561$wO4.248@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > > Anyone out there dome a 4.0 head conversion on a 258 engine? I know > > about > > > > the water jacket passages that need blocking and exhaust manifold and > > > valve > > > > covers need replacing but what else? It just seems too easy....or is > it > > > that > > > > easy? I've read a number of articles on the net but none seem to > mention > > > > about any valvetrain mods needed to do the job. I can't imagine that > the > > > > rods just go right in without change... and how did you check to make > > sure > > > > the valves opened correctly? Any feedback would be helpful. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Rich > > > > 86 CJ7 1"body lift, 2-1/2"YJ spring Rubicon express lift, Detroits > front > > > and > > > > rear, 4:10 gears, 1pc axles, Mopar MPFI and other miscellaneous > offroad > > > > related crap. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: 4.0 head to 4.2 block conversion
I can't give you a clear picture yet as I'm still breaking it in and I need
to get a CV Shaft to tone down the drive shaft vibration after I added my 4" lift kit. I get this vibration at around 40 mph so I'm being delicate with it now. I can let you know further on down the road. Bill "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message news:P%usc.391$eQ5.92@twister.socal.rr.com... > Thanks Bill. What was your end result? Are you happy with it? Was it worth > the work? > Rich > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:2hej47FbjtsrU1@uni-berlin.de... > > Well, I had the machinist do mine and he told me he used the 4.2L push > rods. > > I used the recommended 4.0L block cast # 7120. Had a 3 angle valve job > done > > on it and the water jackets were sealed by the previous owner as he was > > going to do this swap but changed his mind. > > > > Other than that, every thing else was stock 4.2L parts on the short block > > and stock parts on the 4.0L head. No changes to the valve train. > > > > It depends on where you get your exhaust manifold. I got mine from > > http://www.1aauto.com/ and had to add the O2 sensor bug. > > > > I also had to modify my tail pipe to fit to the new exhaust manifold. I > had > > to get a new 'donut' fitting to marry to the exhaust pipe. > > > > Just a bunch of little things which did add up. > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message > > news:_w7sc.56165$jS4.32409@newssvr29.news.prodigy. com... > > > richard-check out this site: > > > http://www.sierrajeep.com > > > > > > as far as i know, you should be able to use the stock lifters and > > pushrods. > > > unless you have the head milled a lot. i'm going to be doing this swap > > > (along with rebuilt block and 258) in a few months. i'll post the > > results. > > > william oliveri in this group has done the swap. > > > > > > try here too: > > > http://www.cjoffroad.com > > > > > > they have a section called "4.0 something..." do a search in there. > good > > > luck! > > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > > > news:PTyrc.561$wO4.248@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > > Anyone out there dome a 4.0 head conversion on a 258 engine? I know > > about > > > > the water jacket passages that need blocking and exhaust manifold and > > > valve > > > > covers need replacing but what else? It just seems too easy....or is > it > > > that > > > > easy? I've read a number of articles on the net but none seem to > mention > > > > about any valvetrain mods needed to do the job. I can't imagine that > the > > > > rods just go right in without change... and how did you check to make > > sure > > > > the valves opened correctly? Any feedback would be helpful. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Rich > > > > 86 CJ7 1"body lift, 2-1/2"YJ spring Rubicon express lift, Detroits > front > > > and > > > > rear, 4:10 gears, 1pc axles, Mopar MPFI and other miscellaneous > offroad > > > > related crap. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: 4.0 head to 4.2 block conversion
I can't give you a clear picture yet as I'm still breaking it in and I need
to get a CV Shaft to tone down the drive shaft vibration after I added my 4" lift kit. I get this vibration at around 40 mph so I'm being delicate with it now. I can let you know further on down the road. Bill "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message news:P%usc.391$eQ5.92@twister.socal.rr.com... > Thanks Bill. What was your end result? Are you happy with it? Was it worth > the work? > Rich > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:2hej47FbjtsrU1@uni-berlin.de... > > Well, I had the machinist do mine and he told me he used the 4.2L push > rods. > > I used the recommended 4.0L block cast # 7120. Had a 3 angle valve job > done > > on it and the water jackets were sealed by the previous owner as he was > > going to do this swap but changed his mind. > > > > Other than that, every thing else was stock 4.2L parts on the short block > > and stock parts on the 4.0L head. No changes to the valve train. > > > > It depends on where you get your exhaust manifold. I got mine from > > http://www.1aauto.com/ and had to add the O2 sensor bug. > > > > I also had to modify my tail pipe to fit to the new exhaust manifold. I > had > > to get a new 'donut' fitting to marry to the exhaust pipe. > > > > Just a bunch of little things which did add up. > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message > > news:_w7sc.56165$jS4.32409@newssvr29.news.prodigy. com... > > > richard-check out this site: > > > http://www.sierrajeep.com > > > > > > as far as i know, you should be able to use the stock lifters and > > pushrods. > > > unless you have the head milled a lot. i'm going to be doing this swap > > > (along with rebuilt block and 258) in a few months. i'll post the > > results. > > > william oliveri in this group has done the swap. > > > > > > try here too: > > > http://www.cjoffroad.com > > > > > > they have a section called "4.0 something..." do a search in there. > good > > > luck! > > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > > > news:PTyrc.561$wO4.248@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > > Anyone out there dome a 4.0 head conversion on a 258 engine? I know > > about > > > > the water jacket passages that need blocking and exhaust manifold and > > > valve > > > > covers need replacing but what else? It just seems too easy....or is > it > > > that > > > > easy? I've read a number of articles on the net but none seem to > mention > > > > about any valvetrain mods needed to do the job. I can't imagine that > the > > > > rods just go right in without change... and how did you check to make > > sure > > > > the valves opened correctly? Any feedback would be helpful. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Rich > > > > 86 CJ7 1"body lift, 2-1/2"YJ spring Rubicon express lift, Detroits > front > > > and > > > > rear, 4:10 gears, 1pc axles, Mopar MPFI and other miscellaneous > offroad > > > > related crap. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: 4.0 head to 4.2 block conversion
I can't give you a clear picture yet as I'm still breaking it in and I need
to get a CV Shaft to tone down the drive shaft vibration after I added my 4" lift kit. I get this vibration at around 40 mph so I'm being delicate with it now. I can let you know further on down the road. Bill "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message news:P%usc.391$eQ5.92@twister.socal.rr.com... > Thanks Bill. What was your end result? Are you happy with it? Was it worth > the work? > Rich > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:2hej47FbjtsrU1@uni-berlin.de... > > Well, I had the machinist do mine and he told me he used the 4.2L push > rods. > > I used the recommended 4.0L block cast # 7120. Had a 3 angle valve job > done > > on it and the water jackets were sealed by the previous owner as he was > > going to do this swap but changed his mind. > > > > Other than that, every thing else was stock 4.2L parts on the short block > > and stock parts on the 4.0L head. No changes to the valve train. > > > > It depends on where you get your exhaust manifold. I got mine from > > http://www.1aauto.com/ and had to add the O2 sensor bug. > > > > I also had to modify my tail pipe to fit to the new exhaust manifold. I > had > > to get a new 'donut' fitting to marry to the exhaust pipe. > > > > Just a bunch of little things which did add up. > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > "serg" <none@none.com> wrote in message > > news:_w7sc.56165$jS4.32409@newssvr29.news.prodigy. com... > > > richard-check out this site: > > > http://www.sierrajeep.com > > > > > > as far as i know, you should be able to use the stock lifters and > > pushrods. > > > unless you have the head milled a lot. i'm going to be doing this swap > > > (along with rebuilt block and 258) in a few months. i'll post the > > results. > > > william oliveri in this group has done the swap. > > > > > > try here too: > > > http://www.cjoffroad.com > > > > > > they have a section called "4.0 something..." do a search in there. > good > > > luck! > > > "Richard Harris" <SHARRIS11nospam@san.rr.com> wrote in message > > > news:PTyrc.561$wO4.248@twister.socal.rr.com... > > > > Anyone out there dome a 4.0 head conversion on a 258 engine? I know > > about > > > > the water jacket passages that need blocking and exhaust manifold and > > > valve > > > > covers need replacing but what else? It just seems too easy....or is > it > > > that > > > > easy? I've read a number of articles on the net but none seem to > mention > > > > about any valvetrain mods needed to do the job. I can't imagine that > the > > > > rods just go right in without change... and how did you check to make > > sure > > > > the valves opened correctly? Any feedback would be helpful. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Rich > > > > 86 CJ7 1"body lift, 2-1/2"YJ spring Rubicon express lift, Detroits > front > > > and > > > > rear, 4:10 gears, 1pc axles, Mopar MPFI and other miscellaneous > offroad > > > > related crap. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
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