Thanks all. I was able to replace just the 12 O-rings. The injectors didn't
look fantastic but didn't look bad. I was able to wrestle the clips off
without removing the rail from the return line. Is anything wrong with
GP-Sorenson injectors? Autozone has them for $45, while CSK has Niehoff for
$76. Are all injectors made equal?


Carl


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:NJJ%d.15$WM6.13@okepread07...
> Carl Saiyed did pass the time by typing:
> > Tx for the advice. How do I pull the fuel rail?
>
> 1) release pressure at the test port
> 2) remove the screws holding it in
> 3) slowly work the injectors out of the manifold
> (grab and twist, it takes some effort)
> work one at a time to minimize stress on the rail and
> don't use the rail as a handle, it's more expensive than
> the injectors. :/
>
> 4) get a glass jar ready, the rail holds lots of fuel and
> there isn't any sense in wasting it. (not at todays bloody
> high prices)
>
> 5) pull back the fuel return line and supply line
> (some use clips, some use a spring lock, YMMV)
> and remove the lines.
>
> 6) take the rail over to that glass jar you have
>
> 7) Remove the clip from the back injector and with the
> fuel rail ports stuck in that glass jar you have.. :)
> slowly wiggle the injector free.
>
> 8) take the rest of the injectors off. There will be quite
> a bit of gas left in the rail and injectors.
>
> hint: it's better to work on the clips while sitting on the
> garage floor. things that fall a short distance tend not
> to bounce very far. :)
>
> I use a toothbrush and some TB cleaner to clean the rail
> ports and manifold ports. To put the injectors back you
> just do the reverse, a bit of oil on the o-rings will make
> it easier to slide them in. Try to keep even pressure on
> the rail (work one injector a bit at a time)
>
> The rail bolts don't hold back any pressure. Use a nut
> driver and when they seat give a bit more.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>

 

Thanks all. I was able to replace just the 12 O-rings. The injectors didn't
look fantastic but didn't look bad. I was able to wrestle the clips off
without removing the rail from the return line. Is anything wrong with
GP-Sorenson injectors? Autozone has them for $45, while CSK has Niehoff for
$76. Are all injectors made equal?


Carl


"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:NJJ%d.15$WM6.13@okepread07...
> Carl Saiyed did pass the time by typing:
> > Tx for the advice. How do I pull the fuel rail?
>
> 1) release pressure at the test port
> 2) remove the screws holding it in
> 3) slowly work the injectors out of the manifold
> (grab and twist, it takes some effort)
> work one at a time to minimize stress on the rail and
> don't use the rail as a handle, it's more expensive than
> the injectors. :/
>
> 4) get a glass jar ready, the rail holds lots of fuel and
> there isn't any sense in wasting it. (not at todays bloody
> high prices)
>
> 5) pull back the fuel return line and supply line
> (some use clips, some use a spring lock, YMMV)
> and remove the lines.
>
> 6) take the rail over to that glass jar you have
>
> 7) Remove the clip from the back injector and with the
> fuel rail ports stuck in that glass jar you have.. :)
> slowly wiggle the injector free.
>
> 8) take the rest of the injectors off. There will be quite
> a bit of gas left in the rail and injectors.
>
> hint: it's better to work on the clips while sitting on the
> garage floor. things that fall a short distance tend not
> to bounce very far. :)
>
> I use a toothbrush and some TB cleaner to clean the rail
> ports and manifold ports. To put the injectors back you
> just do the reverse, a bit of oil on the o-rings will make
> it easier to slide them in. Try to keep even pressure on
> the rail (work one injector a bit at a time)
>
> The rail bolts don't hold back any pressure. Use a nut
> driver and when they seat give a bit more.
>
> --
> DougW
>
>

 

Hi Doug,
You should add this documentation to your helpful pages at:
http://revbeergoggles.com I was going to put up what the Factory Service
Manual says, but takes into consideration we already know how to change
an O-ring: http://www.----------.com/XJfuelinjection.pdf
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

DougW wrote:
>
> 1) release pressure at the test port
> 2) remove the screws holding it in
> 3) slowly work the injectors out of the manifold
> (grab and twist, it takes some effort)
> work one at a time to minimize stress on the rail and
> don't use the rail as a handle, it's more expensive than
> the injectors. :/
>
> 4) get a glass jar ready, the rail holds lots of fuel and
> there isn't any sense in wasting it. (not at todays bloody
> high prices)
>
> 5) pull back the fuel return line and supply line
> (some use clips, some use a spring lock, YMMV)
> and remove the lines.
>
> 6) take the rail over to that glass jar you have
>
> 7) Remove the clip from the back injector and with the
> fuel rail ports stuck in that glass jar you have.. :)
> slowly wiggle the injector free.
>
> 8) take the rest of the injectors off. There will be quite
> a bit of gas left in the rail and injectors.
>
> hint: it's better to work on the clips while sitting on the
> garage floor. things that fall a short distance tend not
> to bounce very far. :)
>
> I use a toothbrush and some TB cleaner to clean the rail
> ports and manifold ports. To put the injectors back you
> just do the reverse, a bit of oil on the o-rings will make
> it easier to slide them in. Try to keep even pressure on
> the rail (work one injector a bit at a time)
>
> The rail bolts don't hold back any pressure. Use a nut
> driver and when they seat give a bit more.
>
> --
> DougW

 

Hi Doug,
You should add this documentation to your helpful pages at:
http://revbeergoggles.com I was going to put up what the Factory Service
Manual says, but takes into consideration we already know how to change
an O-ring: http://www.----------.com/XJfuelinjection.pdf
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

DougW wrote:
>
> 1) release pressure at the test port
> 2) remove the screws holding it in
> 3) slowly work the injectors out of the manifold
> (grab and twist, it takes some effort)
> work one at a time to minimize stress on the rail and
> don't use the rail as a handle, it's more expensive than
> the injectors. :/
>
> 4) get a glass jar ready, the rail holds lots of fuel and
> there isn't any sense in wasting it. (not at todays bloody
> high prices)
>
> 5) pull back the fuel return line and supply line
> (some use clips, some use a spring lock, YMMV)
> and remove the lines.
>
> 6) take the rail over to that glass jar you have
>
> 7) Remove the clip from the back injector and with the
> fuel rail ports stuck in that glass jar you have.. :)
> slowly wiggle the injector free.
>
> 8) take the rest of the injectors off. There will be quite
> a bit of gas left in the rail and injectors.
>
> hint: it's better to work on the clips while sitting on the
> garage floor. things that fall a short distance tend not
> to bounce very far. :)
>
> I use a toothbrush and some TB cleaner to clean the rail
> ports and manifold ports. To put the injectors back you
> just do the reverse, a bit of oil on the o-rings will make
> it easier to slide them in. Try to keep even pressure on
> the rail (work one injector a bit at a time)
>
> The rail bolts don't hold back any pressure. Use a nut
> driver and when they seat give a bit more.
>
> --
> DougW

 

Hi Doug,
You should add this documentation to your helpful pages at:
http://revbeergoggles.com I was going to put up what the Factory Service
Manual says, but takes into consideration we already know how to change
an O-ring: http://www.----------.com/XJfuelinjection.pdf
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------

DougW wrote:
>
> 1) release pressure at the test port
> 2) remove the screws holding it in
> 3) slowly work the injectors out of the manifold
> (grab and twist, it takes some effort)
> work one at a time to minimize stress on the rail and
> don't use the rail as a handle, it's more expensive than
> the injectors. :/
>
> 4) get a glass jar ready, the rail holds lots of fuel and
> there isn't any sense in wasting it. (not at todays bloody
> high prices)
>
> 5) pull back the fuel return line and supply line
> (some use clips, some use a spring lock, YMMV)
> and remove the lines.
>
> 6) take the rail over to that glass jar you have
>
> 7) Remove the clip from the back injector and with the
> fuel rail ports stuck in that glass jar you have.. :)
> slowly wiggle the injector free.
>
> 8) take the rest of the injectors off. There will be quite
> a bit of gas left in the rail and injectors.
>
> hint: it's better to work on the clips while sitting on the
> garage floor. things that fall a short distance tend not
> to bounce very far. :)
>
> I use a toothbrush and some TB cleaner to clean the rail
> ports and manifold ports. To put the injectors back you
> just do the reverse, a bit of oil on the o-rings will make
> it easier to slide them in. Try to keep even pressure on
> the rail (work one injector a bit at a time)
>
> The rail bolts don't hold back any pressure. Use a nut
> driver and when they seat give a bit more.
>
> --
> DougW

 

L.W. ("ßill") ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> Hi Doug,
> You should add this documentation to your helpful pages at:
> http://revbeergoggles.com I was going to put up what the Factory Service
> Manual says, but takes into consideration we already know how to change
> an O-ring: http://www.----------.com/XJfuelinjection.pdf

I'll do that.

But now it's time to log off. My UPS went POOF and there is a
thunder storm in the area.

--
DougW

 

L.W. ("ßill") ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> Hi Doug,
> You should add this documentation to your helpful pages at:
> http://revbeergoggles.com I was going to put up what the Factory Service
> Manual says, but takes into consideration we already know how to change
> an O-ring: http://www.----------.com/XJfuelinjection.pdf

I'll do that.

But now it's time to log off. My UPS went POOF and there is a
thunder storm in the area.

--
DougW

 

L.W. ("ßill") ------ III did pass the time by typing:
> Hi Doug,
> You should add this documentation to your helpful pages at:
> http://revbeergoggles.com I was going to put up what the Factory Service
> Manual says, but takes into consideration we already know how to change
> an O-ring: http://www.----------.com/XJfuelinjection.pdf

I'll do that.

But now it's time to log off. My UPS went POOF and there is a
thunder storm in the area.

--
DougW

 

Toto?
KH

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:mFK%d.34$WM6.31@okepread07...
> L.W. ("ßill") ------ III did pass the time by typing:
>> Hi Doug,
>> You should add this documentation to your helpful pages at:
>> http://revbeergoggles.com I was going to put up what the Factory Service
>> Manual says, but takes into consideration we already know how to change
>> an O-ring: http://www.----------.com/XJfuelinjection.pdf
>
> I'll do that.
>
> But now it's time to log off. My UPS went POOF and there is a
> thunder storm in the area.
>
> --
> DougW
>

 

Toto?
KH

"DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
news:mFK%d.34$WM6.31@okepread07...
> L.W. ("ßill") ------ III did pass the time by typing:
>> Hi Doug,
>> You should add this documentation to your helpful pages at:
>> http://revbeergoggles.com I was going to put up what the Factory Service
>> Manual says, but takes into consideration we already know how to change
>> an O-ring: http://www.----------.com/XJfuelinjection.pdf
>
> I'll do that.
>
> But now it's time to log off. My UPS went POOF and there is a
> thunder storm in the area.
>
> --
> DougW
>