Carl

3" Shouldn't cause driveline vibes. If your U-joints are old, change 'em to
keep from being stranded on the side of the road.

You're stock control arms will be fine. I'm not sure what you mean by
'heights of differentials'. You'll probably need new shocks all the way
around, though you might be able to get away with a set of bar pin
eliminators.

Longer brake lines aren't needed for 3" on an XJ. After removing the bracket
from the body, carefully bend the hard brake line straight and re-locate it
lower. This is plenty of travel for the front brake lines.

For the rear, Remove the bolt that passes through the brake line splitter
and replace it with stacked washers. If you MUST have it bolted for some
reason, get a longer bolt and stack washers and mount the brake line on top.
I left mine free for many wheeling trips and never had a problem. YMMV.

Also, what Doug said about the track bars. Basically, remove the bolt on the
axle end of the track bar. Bounce the jeep up and down as hard as you can a
few times. Re-drill the bracket to accomodate the new position. If you need
to only oblong the old hole, just re-mount it in the stock place. I had to
drill approx 1" to the right (driver's side) with a 3.5" lift on a 91 XJ.

You'll also need to do a partial alignment, at least. It is very easy and
instructions can be provided here if you need them.

You do not need a spring compressor, but unbolting the sway bar can make
matters much easier. Use lots of anti-sieze on all your bolts.

HTH

Carl


<98XJ> wrote in message news:ecvar2llvg7aq1shu17b9bl4et613alra8@4ax.com...
> Thank you, Doug. That's exactly what I was needing.
>
>
>
> On Mon, 22 Jan 2007 19:16:54 -0600, "DougW"
> <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>
>>98XJ wrote:
>>> Hello, Group-
>>> Thanks for all of the good advice in the past, and in advance for this
>>> request.
>>>
>>> I just bought a pair of (used Tomken) 3"-lift leaf spring packs for my
>>> XJ on ebay. This car is my daily driver, and really, I probably don't
>>> need this much lift to get me afield for hunting trips. I just want
>>> some more wheel well clearance for taller snow tires.
>>>
>>> My question is this: With a 3" lift (I would add new +3" coils at the
>>> same time), what else needs to be changed? Heights of differentials?
>>> Control arms? Longer brake lines? I have Rancho RS5000s on the
>>> front, Gabriel air shocks on the rear.
>>>
>>> Thanks, again, to anyone who can comment or offer advice.
>>
>>At 3" you will need longer shocks or risk topping them out
>>with moderate suspension travel.
>>
>>Longer brake lines, possibly. On some vehicles you can
>>relocate the frame mounting tab down a couple inches. If you
>>do this, you should check the lines at maximum suspension travel.
>>I'd say it's a good excuse for longer steel braided lines. :)
>>
>>3" is what you get when the springs are new. As they age it's
>>more like 2". Same thing with the up-country springs I use.
>>
>>I don't think 3" will cause driveline problems. Not that familiar
>>with the XJ. If it does you will notice vibrations at speed.
>>
>>You will need to relocate the track bars. usually there is enough
>>space to drill inboard about 1" (please check with a local 4x4 shop,
>>that number is off my noggin)
>>
>>The only steering adjustment you will need is the drag link. (steering
>>box to tie rod. Just drive the vehicle straight then undo the two clamps,
>>rotate the center bit to extend the bar, and tighten the clamps. Adjust
>>as necissary. Alighnment isn't necissary, but recommended.
>

Carl

3" Shouldn't cause driveline vibes. If your U-joints are old, change 'em to
keep from being stranded on the side of the road.

You're stock control arms will be fine. I'm not sure what you mean by
'heights of differentials'. You'll probably need new shocks all the way
around, though you might be able to get away with a set of bar pin
eliminators.

Longer brake lines aren't needed for 3" on an XJ. After removing the bracket
from the body, carefully bend the hard brake line straight and re-locate it
lower. This is plenty of travel for the front brake lines.

For the rear, Remove the bolt that passes through the brake line splitter
and replace it with stacked washers. If you MUST have it bolted for some
reason, get a longer bolt and stack washers and mount the brake line on top.
I left mine free for many wheeling trips and never had a problem. YMMV.

Also, what Doug said about the track bars. Basically, remove the bolt on the
axle end of the track bar. Bounce the jeep up and down as hard as you can a
few times. Re-drill the bracket to accomodate the new position. If you need
to only oblong the old hole, just re-mount it in the stock place. I had to
drill approx 1" to the right (driver's side) with a 3.5" lift on a 91 XJ.

You'll also need to do a partial alignment, at least. It is very easy and
instructions can be provided here if you need them.

You do not need a spring compressor, but unbolting the sway bar can make
matters much easier. Use lots of anti-sieze on all your bolts.

HTH

Carl


<98XJ> wrote in message news:ecvar2llvg7aq1shu17b9bl4et613alra8@4ax.com...
> Thank you, Doug. That's exactly what I was needing.
>
>
>
> On Mon, 22 Jan 2007 19:16:54 -0600, "DougW"
> <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>
>>98XJ wrote:
>>> Hello, Group-
>>> Thanks for all of the good advice in the past, and in advance for this
>>> request.
>>>
>>> I just bought a pair of (used Tomken) 3"-lift leaf spring packs for my
>>> XJ on ebay. This car is my daily driver, and really, I probably don't
>>> need this much lift to get me afield for hunting trips. I just want
>>> some more wheel well clearance for taller snow tires.
>>>
>>> My question is this: With a 3" lift (I would add new +3" coils at the
>>> same time), what else needs to be changed? Heights of differentials?
>>> Control arms? Longer brake lines? I have Rancho RS5000s on the
>>> front, Gabriel air shocks on the rear.
>>>
>>> Thanks, again, to anyone who can comment or offer advice.
>>
>>At 3" you will need longer shocks or risk topping them out
>>with moderate suspension travel.
>>
>>Longer brake lines, possibly. On some vehicles you can
>>relocate the frame mounting tab down a couple inches. If you
>>do this, you should check the lines at maximum suspension travel.
>>I'd say it's a good excuse for longer steel braided lines. :)
>>
>>3" is what you get when the springs are new. As they age it's
>>more like 2". Same thing with the up-country springs I use.
>>
>>I don't think 3" will cause driveline problems. Not that familiar
>>with the XJ. If it does you will notice vibrations at speed.
>>
>>You will need to relocate the track bars. usually there is enough
>>space to drill inboard about 1" (please check with a local 4x4 shop,
>>that number is off my noggin)
>>
>>The only steering adjustment you will need is the drag link. (steering
>>box to tie rod. Just drive the vehicle straight then undo the two clamps,
>>rotate the center bit to extend the bar, and tighten the clamps. Adjust
>>as necissary. Alighnment isn't necissary, but recommended.
>

Carl

3" Shouldn't cause driveline vibes. If your U-joints are old, change 'em to
keep from being stranded on the side of the road.

You're stock control arms will be fine. I'm not sure what you mean by
'heights of differentials'. You'll probably need new shocks all the way
around, though you might be able to get away with a set of bar pin
eliminators.

Longer brake lines aren't needed for 3" on an XJ. After removing the bracket
from the body, carefully bend the hard brake line straight and re-locate it
lower. This is plenty of travel for the front brake lines.

For the rear, Remove the bolt that passes through the brake line splitter
and replace it with stacked washers. If you MUST have it bolted for some
reason, get a longer bolt and stack washers and mount the brake line on top.
I left mine free for many wheeling trips and never had a problem. YMMV.

Also, what Doug said about the track bars. Basically, remove the bolt on the
axle end of the track bar. Bounce the jeep up and down as hard as you can a
few times. Re-drill the bracket to accomodate the new position. If you need
to only oblong the old hole, just re-mount it in the stock place. I had to
drill approx 1" to the right (driver's side) with a 3.5" lift on a 91 XJ.

You'll also need to do a partial alignment, at least. It is very easy and
instructions can be provided here if you need them.

You do not need a spring compressor, but unbolting the sway bar can make
matters much easier. Use lots of anti-sieze on all your bolts.

HTH

Carl


<98XJ> wrote in message news:ecvar2llvg7aq1shu17b9bl4et613alra8@4ax.com...
> Thank you, Doug. That's exactly what I was needing.
>
>
>
> On Mon, 22 Jan 2007 19:16:54 -0600, "DougW"
> <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>
>>98XJ wrote:
>>> Hello, Group-
>>> Thanks for all of the good advice in the past, and in advance for this
>>> request.
>>>
>>> I just bought a pair of (used Tomken) 3"-lift leaf spring packs for my
>>> XJ on ebay. This car is my daily driver, and really, I probably don't
>>> need this much lift to get me afield for hunting trips. I just want
>>> some more wheel well clearance for taller snow tires.
>>>
>>> My question is this: With a 3" lift (I would add new +3" coils at the
>>> same time), what else needs to be changed? Heights of differentials?
>>> Control arms? Longer brake lines? I have Rancho RS5000s on the
>>> front, Gabriel air shocks on the rear.
>>>
>>> Thanks, again, to anyone who can comment or offer advice.
>>
>>At 3" you will need longer shocks or risk topping them out
>>with moderate suspension travel.
>>
>>Longer brake lines, possibly. On some vehicles you can
>>relocate the frame mounting tab down a couple inches. If you
>>do this, you should check the lines at maximum suspension travel.
>>I'd say it's a good excuse for longer steel braided lines. :)
>>
>>3" is what you get when the springs are new. As they age it's
>>more like 2". Same thing with the up-country springs I use.
>>
>>I don't think 3" will cause driveline problems. Not that familiar
>>with the XJ. If it does you will notice vibrations at speed.
>>
>>You will need to relocate the track bars. usually there is enough
>>space to drill inboard about 1" (please check with a local 4x4 shop,
>>that number is off my noggin)
>>
>>The only steering adjustment you will need is the drag link. (steering
>>box to tie rod. Just drive the vehicle straight then undo the two clamps,
>>rotate the center bit to extend the bar, and tighten the clamps. Adjust
>>as necissary. Alighnment isn't necissary, but recommended.
>

Carl

Oh, I almost forgot. If you do get driveline vibes, do a 1" t-case drop or
2-3 degree shims, problem solved.

Carl

"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:Ir-dnXh6gJXVHijYnZ2dnUVZ_sOknZ2d@comcast.com...
> 3" Shouldn't cause driveline vibes. If your U-joints are old, change 'em
> to keep from being stranded on the side of the road.
>
> You're stock control arms will be fine. I'm not sure what you mean by
> 'heights of differentials'. You'll probably need new shocks all the way
> around, though you might be able to get away with a set of bar pin
> eliminators.
>
> Longer brake lines aren't needed for 3" on an XJ. After removing the
> bracket from the body, carefully bend the hard brake line straight and
> re-locate it lower. This is plenty of travel for the front brake lines.
>
> For the rear, Remove the bolt that passes through the brake line splitter
> and replace it with stacked washers. If you MUST have it bolted for some
> reason, get a longer bolt and stack washers and mount the brake line on
> top. I left mine free for many wheeling trips and never had a problem.
> YMMV.
>
> Also, what Doug said about the track bars. Basically, remove the bolt on
> the axle end of the track bar. Bounce the jeep up and down as hard as you
> can a few times. Re-drill the bracket to accomodate the new position. If
> you need to only oblong the old hole, just re-mount it in the stock place.
> I had to drill approx 1" to the right (driver's side) with a 3.5" lift on
> a 91 XJ.
>
> You'll also need to do a partial alignment, at least. It is very easy and
> instructions can be provided here if you need them.
>
> You do not need a spring compressor, but unbolting the sway bar can make
> matters much easier. Use lots of anti-sieze on all your bolts.
>
> HTH
>
> Carl
>
>
> <98XJ> wrote in message news:ecvar2llvg7aq1shu17b9bl4et613alra8@4ax.com...
>> Thank you, Doug. That's exactly what I was needing.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, 22 Jan 2007 19:16:54 -0600, "DougW"
>> <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>>
>>>98XJ wrote:
>>>> Hello, Group-
>>>> Thanks for all of the good advice in the past, and in advance for this
>>>> request.
>>>>
>>>> I just bought a pair of (used Tomken) 3"-lift leaf spring packs for my
>>>> XJ on ebay. This car is my daily driver, and really, I probably don't
>>>> need this much lift to get me afield for hunting trips. I just want
>>>> some more wheel well clearance for taller snow tires.
>>>>
>>>> My question is this: With a 3" lift (I would add new +3" coils at the
>>>> same time), what else needs to be changed? Heights of differentials?
>>>> Control arms? Longer brake lines? I have Rancho RS5000s on the
>>>> front, Gabriel air shocks on the rear.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks, again, to anyone who can comment or offer advice.
>>>
>>>At 3" you will need longer shocks or risk topping them out
>>>with moderate suspension travel.
>>>
>>>Longer brake lines, possibly. On some vehicles you can
>>>relocate the frame mounting tab down a couple inches. If you
>>>do this, you should check the lines at maximum suspension travel.
>>>I'd say it's a good excuse for longer steel braided lines. :)
>>>
>>>3" is what you get when the springs are new. As they age it's
>>>more like 2". Same thing with the up-country springs I use.
>>>
>>>I don't think 3" will cause driveline problems. Not that familiar
>>>with the XJ. If it does you will notice vibrations at speed.
>>>
>>>You will need to relocate the track bars. usually there is enough
>>>space to drill inboard about 1" (please check with a local 4x4 shop,
>>>that number is off my noggin)
>>>
>>>The only steering adjustment you will need is the drag link. (steering
>>>box to tie rod. Just drive the vehicle straight then undo the two
>>>clamps,
>>>rotate the center bit to extend the bar, and tighten the clamps. Adjust
>>>as necissary. Alighnment isn't necissary, but recommended.
>>
>
>

Carl

Oh, I almost forgot. If you do get driveline vibes, do a 1" t-case drop or
2-3 degree shims, problem solved.

Carl

"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:Ir-dnXh6gJXVHijYnZ2dnUVZ_sOknZ2d@comcast.com...
> 3" Shouldn't cause driveline vibes. If your U-joints are old, change 'em
> to keep from being stranded on the side of the road.
>
> You're stock control arms will be fine. I'm not sure what you mean by
> 'heights of differentials'. You'll probably need new shocks all the way
> around, though you might be able to get away with a set of bar pin
> eliminators.
>
> Longer brake lines aren't needed for 3" on an XJ. After removing the
> bracket from the body, carefully bend the hard brake line straight and
> re-locate it lower. This is plenty of travel for the front brake lines.
>
> For the rear, Remove the bolt that passes through the brake line splitter
> and replace it with stacked washers. If you MUST have it bolted for some
> reason, get a longer bolt and stack washers and mount the brake line on
> top. I left mine free for many wheeling trips and never had a problem.
> YMMV.
>
> Also, what Doug said about the track bars. Basically, remove the bolt on
> the axle end of the track bar. Bounce the jeep up and down as hard as you
> can a few times. Re-drill the bracket to accomodate the new position. If
> you need to only oblong the old hole, just re-mount it in the stock place.
> I had to drill approx 1" to the right (driver's side) with a 3.5" lift on
> a 91 XJ.
>
> You'll also need to do a partial alignment, at least. It is very easy and
> instructions can be provided here if you need them.
>
> You do not need a spring compressor, but unbolting the sway bar can make
> matters much easier. Use lots of anti-sieze on all your bolts.
>
> HTH
>
> Carl
>
>
> <98XJ> wrote in message news:ecvar2llvg7aq1shu17b9bl4et613alra8@4ax.com...
>> Thank you, Doug. That's exactly what I was needing.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, 22 Jan 2007 19:16:54 -0600, "DougW"
>> <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>>
>>>98XJ wrote:
>>>> Hello, Group-
>>>> Thanks for all of the good advice in the past, and in advance for this
>>>> request.
>>>>
>>>> I just bought a pair of (used Tomken) 3"-lift leaf spring packs for my
>>>> XJ on ebay. This car is my daily driver, and really, I probably don't
>>>> need this much lift to get me afield for hunting trips. I just want
>>>> some more wheel well clearance for taller snow tires.
>>>>
>>>> My question is this: With a 3" lift (I would add new +3" coils at the
>>>> same time), what else needs to be changed? Heights of differentials?
>>>> Control arms? Longer brake lines? I have Rancho RS5000s on the
>>>> front, Gabriel air shocks on the rear.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks, again, to anyone who can comment or offer advice.
>>>
>>>At 3" you will need longer shocks or risk topping them out
>>>with moderate suspension travel.
>>>
>>>Longer brake lines, possibly. On some vehicles you can
>>>relocate the frame mounting tab down a couple inches. If you
>>>do this, you should check the lines at maximum suspension travel.
>>>I'd say it's a good excuse for longer steel braided lines. :)
>>>
>>>3" is what you get when the springs are new. As they age it's
>>>more like 2". Same thing with the up-country springs I use.
>>>
>>>I don't think 3" will cause driveline problems. Not that familiar
>>>with the XJ. If it does you will notice vibrations at speed.
>>>
>>>You will need to relocate the track bars. usually there is enough
>>>space to drill inboard about 1" (please check with a local 4x4 shop,
>>>that number is off my noggin)
>>>
>>>The only steering adjustment you will need is the drag link. (steering
>>>box to tie rod. Just drive the vehicle straight then undo the two
>>>clamps,
>>>rotate the center bit to extend the bar, and tighten the clamps. Adjust
>>>as necissary. Alighnment isn't necissary, but recommended.
>>
>
>

Carl

Oh, I almost forgot. If you do get driveline vibes, do a 1" t-case drop or
2-3 degree shims, problem solved.

Carl

"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:Ir-dnXh6gJXVHijYnZ2dnUVZ_sOknZ2d@comcast.com...
> 3" Shouldn't cause driveline vibes. If your U-joints are old, change 'em
> to keep from being stranded on the side of the road.
>
> You're stock control arms will be fine. I'm not sure what you mean by
> 'heights of differentials'. You'll probably need new shocks all the way
> around, though you might be able to get away with a set of bar pin
> eliminators.
>
> Longer brake lines aren't needed for 3" on an XJ. After removing the
> bracket from the body, carefully bend the hard brake line straight and
> re-locate it lower. This is plenty of travel for the front brake lines.
>
> For the rear, Remove the bolt that passes through the brake line splitter
> and replace it with stacked washers. If you MUST have it bolted for some
> reason, get a longer bolt and stack washers and mount the brake line on
> top. I left mine free for many wheeling trips and never had a problem.
> YMMV.
>
> Also, what Doug said about the track bars. Basically, remove the bolt on
> the axle end of the track bar. Bounce the jeep up and down as hard as you
> can a few times. Re-drill the bracket to accomodate the new position. If
> you need to only oblong the old hole, just re-mount it in the stock place.
> I had to drill approx 1" to the right (driver's side) with a 3.5" lift on
> a 91 XJ.
>
> You'll also need to do a partial alignment, at least. It is very easy and
> instructions can be provided here if you need them.
>
> You do not need a spring compressor, but unbolting the sway bar can make
> matters much easier. Use lots of anti-sieze on all your bolts.
>
> HTH
>
> Carl
>
>
> <98XJ> wrote in message news:ecvar2llvg7aq1shu17b9bl4et613alra8@4ax.com...
>> Thank you, Doug. That's exactly what I was needing.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, 22 Jan 2007 19:16:54 -0600, "DougW"
>> <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>>
>>>98XJ wrote:
>>>> Hello, Group-
>>>> Thanks for all of the good advice in the past, and in advance for this
>>>> request.
>>>>
>>>> I just bought a pair of (used Tomken) 3"-lift leaf spring packs for my
>>>> XJ on ebay. This car is my daily driver, and really, I probably don't
>>>> need this much lift to get me afield for hunting trips. I just want
>>>> some more wheel well clearance for taller snow tires.
>>>>
>>>> My question is this: With a 3" lift (I would add new +3" coils at the
>>>> same time), what else needs to be changed? Heights of differentials?
>>>> Control arms? Longer brake lines? I have Rancho RS5000s on the
>>>> front, Gabriel air shocks on the rear.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks, again, to anyone who can comment or offer advice.
>>>
>>>At 3" you will need longer shocks or risk topping them out
>>>with moderate suspension travel.
>>>
>>>Longer brake lines, possibly. On some vehicles you can
>>>relocate the frame mounting tab down a couple inches. If you
>>>do this, you should check the lines at maximum suspension travel.
>>>I'd say it's a good excuse for longer steel braided lines. :)
>>>
>>>3" is what you get when the springs are new. As they age it's
>>>more like 2". Same thing with the up-country springs I use.
>>>
>>>I don't think 3" will cause driveline problems. Not that familiar
>>>with the XJ. If it does you will notice vibrations at speed.
>>>
>>>You will need to relocate the track bars. usually there is enough
>>>space to drill inboard about 1" (please check with a local 4x4 shop,
>>>that number is off my noggin)
>>>
>>>The only steering adjustment you will need is the drag link. (steering
>>>box to tie rod. Just drive the vehicle straight then undo the two
>>>clamps,
>>>rotate the center bit to extend the bar, and tighten the clamps. Adjust
>>>as necissary. Alighnment isn't necissary, but recommended.
>>
>
>

Carl

Oh, I almost forgot. If you do get driveline vibes, do a 1" t-case drop or
2-3 degree shims, problem solved.

Carl

"Carl" <carlsaiyed@hotmailREMOVE.com> wrote in message
news:Ir-dnXh6gJXVHijYnZ2dnUVZ_sOknZ2d@comcast.com...
> 3" Shouldn't cause driveline vibes. If your U-joints are old, change 'em
> to keep from being stranded on the side of the road.
>
> You're stock control arms will be fine. I'm not sure what you mean by
> 'heights of differentials'. You'll probably need new shocks all the way
> around, though you might be able to get away with a set of bar pin
> eliminators.
>
> Longer brake lines aren't needed for 3" on an XJ. After removing the
> bracket from the body, carefully bend the hard brake line straight and
> re-locate it lower. This is plenty of travel for the front brake lines.
>
> For the rear, Remove the bolt that passes through the brake line splitter
> and replace it with stacked washers. If you MUST have it bolted for some
> reason, get a longer bolt and stack washers and mount the brake line on
> top. I left mine free for many wheeling trips and never had a problem.
> YMMV.
>
> Also, what Doug said about the track bars. Basically, remove the bolt on
> the axle end of the track bar. Bounce the jeep up and down as hard as you
> can a few times. Re-drill the bracket to accomodate the new position. If
> you need to only oblong the old hole, just re-mount it in the stock place.
> I had to drill approx 1" to the right (driver's side) with a 3.5" lift on
> a 91 XJ.
>
> You'll also need to do a partial alignment, at least. It is very easy and
> instructions can be provided here if you need them.
>
> You do not need a spring compressor, but unbolting the sway bar can make
> matters much easier. Use lots of anti-sieze on all your bolts.
>
> HTH
>
> Carl
>
>
> <98XJ> wrote in message news:ecvar2llvg7aq1shu17b9bl4et613alra8@4ax.com...
>> Thank you, Doug. That's exactly what I was needing.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, 22 Jan 2007 19:16:54 -0600, "DougW"
>> <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
>>
>>>98XJ wrote:
>>>> Hello, Group-
>>>> Thanks for all of the good advice in the past, and in advance for this
>>>> request.
>>>>
>>>> I just bought a pair of (used Tomken) 3"-lift leaf spring packs for my
>>>> XJ on ebay. This car is my daily driver, and really, I probably don't
>>>> need this much lift to get me afield for hunting trips. I just want
>>>> some more wheel well clearance for taller snow tires.
>>>>
>>>> My question is this: With a 3" lift (I would add new +3" coils at the
>>>> same time), what else needs to be changed? Heights of differentials?
>>>> Control arms? Longer brake lines? I have Rancho RS5000s on the
>>>> front, Gabriel air shocks on the rear.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks, again, to anyone who can comment or offer advice.
>>>
>>>At 3" you will need longer shocks or risk topping them out
>>>with moderate suspension travel.
>>>
>>>Longer brake lines, possibly. On some vehicles you can
>>>relocate the frame mounting tab down a couple inches. If you
>>>do this, you should check the lines at maximum suspension travel.
>>>I'd say it's a good excuse for longer steel braided lines. :)
>>>
>>>3" is what you get when the springs are new. As they age it's
>>>more like 2". Same thing with the up-country springs I use.
>>>
>>>I don't think 3" will cause driveline problems. Not that familiar
>>>with the XJ. If it does you will notice vibrations at speed.
>>>
>>>You will need to relocate the track bars. usually there is enough
>>>space to drill inboard about 1" (please check with a local 4x4 shop,
>>>that number is off my noggin)
>>>
>>>The only steering adjustment you will need is the drag link. (steering
>>>box to tie rod. Just drive the vehicle straight then undo the two
>>>clamps,
>>>rotate the center bit to extend the bar, and tighten the clamps. Adjust
>>>as necissary. Alighnment isn't necissary, but recommended.
>>
>
>