258 stalls at idle
03-12-2007, 05:53 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 258 stalls at idle
Well everyone, I solved my own troubles. My carb is two weeks old, it
can't be broken, right? Wrong. As a last resort, I pulled the venturi
cluster, found that my drivers' side idle pickup tube had fallen out
of its hole. Cleaned 'em both up for good measure, pushed the one
into the assembly, and put everything back together. Started it up,
and it just purred. On the bright side, in the process of fixing this
thing I fixed a vacuum leak and tested most of my emissions stuff - so
everything should be working fine for a while now.
Going to take a shower and get to the grocery store - Haven't been
there since this started happening and I'm getting pretty hungry.
Thanks for your help, Bill.
can't be broken, right? Wrong. As a last resort, I pulled the venturi
cluster, found that my drivers' side idle pickup tube had fallen out
of its hole. Cleaned 'em both up for good measure, pushed the one
into the assembly, and put everything back together. Started it up,
and it just purred. On the bright side, in the process of fixing this
thing I fixed a vacuum leak and tested most of my emissions stuff - so
everything should be working fine for a while now.
Going to take a shower and get to the grocery store - Haven't been
there since this started happening and I'm getting pretty hungry.
Thanks for your help, Bill.
03-12-2007, 05:53 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 258 stalls at idle
Well everyone, I solved my own troubles. My carb is two weeks old, it
can't be broken, right? Wrong. As a last resort, I pulled the venturi
cluster, found that my drivers' side idle pickup tube had fallen out
of its hole. Cleaned 'em both up for good measure, pushed the one
into the assembly, and put everything back together. Started it up,
and it just purred. On the bright side, in the process of fixing this
thing I fixed a vacuum leak and tested most of my emissions stuff - so
everything should be working fine for a while now.
Going to take a shower and get to the grocery store - Haven't been
there since this started happening and I'm getting pretty hungry.
Thanks for your help, Bill.
can't be broken, right? Wrong. As a last resort, I pulled the venturi
cluster, found that my drivers' side idle pickup tube had fallen out
of its hole. Cleaned 'em both up for good measure, pushed the one
into the assembly, and put everything back together. Started it up,
and it just purred. On the bright side, in the process of fixing this
thing I fixed a vacuum leak and tested most of my emissions stuff - so
everything should be working fine for a while now.
Going to take a shower and get to the grocery store - Haven't been
there since this started happening and I'm getting pretty hungry.
Thanks for your help, Bill.
03-12-2007, 05:53 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 258 stalls at idle
Well everyone, I solved my own troubles. My carb is two weeks old, it
can't be broken, right? Wrong. As a last resort, I pulled the venturi
cluster, found that my drivers' side idle pickup tube had fallen out
of its hole. Cleaned 'em both up for good measure, pushed the one
into the assembly, and put everything back together. Started it up,
and it just purred. On the bright side, in the process of fixing this
thing I fixed a vacuum leak and tested most of my emissions stuff - so
everything should be working fine for a while now.
Going to take a shower and get to the grocery store - Haven't been
there since this started happening and I'm getting pretty hungry.
Thanks for your help, Bill.
can't be broken, right? Wrong. As a last resort, I pulled the venturi
cluster, found that my drivers' side idle pickup tube had fallen out
of its hole. Cleaned 'em both up for good measure, pushed the one
into the assembly, and put everything back together. Started it up,
and it just purred. On the bright side, in the process of fixing this
thing I fixed a vacuum leak and tested most of my emissions stuff - so
everything should be working fine for a while now.
Going to take a shower and get to the grocery store - Haven't been
there since this started happening and I'm getting pretty hungry.
Thanks for your help, Bill.
03-12-2007, 06:25 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 258 stalls at idle
Micah wrote:
> Me again. My 1988 4.2 YJ is once again giving me problems. Just
> installed a rebuilt 2bl Carter 2 weeks ago. Flushed the fuel lines
> and changed the filter when I did it. First had problems with the
> choke pull-off, I didn't have that fixed for a day before I started
> having more trouble. Now, hot or cold, it just won't idle. When I
> push the clutch in to come to a stop, the RPMs fall first to about
> 1000, then to about 200, then the engine dies. It does it with or
> without the brakes applied. I checked everywhere for vacuum leaks on
> Saturday, found only one, and subsequently fixed it. It still doesn't
> idle. I checked the EGR for proper operation (the pintle moves back
> and forth at high RPMs as I believe it should). Plugged off the vac
> line to the brake booster and still, it stalled. The vac reservoir
> under the battery also functions. I pulled my distributor cap, it was
> clean as a whistle in there. My spark plugs have about 300 miles on
> them, and yes, I gapped them correctly.
>
> Other information that may or may not apply to the situation: it
> didn't start doing this progressively. It ran perfect all day, then
> at one stoplight, it just died. Also, since it started happening, I
> can smell melting plastic coming from somewhere under the hood, but I
> can't for the life of me locate the source. Does anyone have ANY
> ideas? I'm at the end of my rope.
>
The gas line from the filter to the carb has a U shape and is notorious
for holding enough junk in it to plug up an idle tube. I see that lots
just after a carb kit job if folks don't clean that line out.
To see if this is it, at idle carefully look down the carb throat and
give the gas a shot with your hand on the linkage. You should see two
nice sprays of gas in there. If you see drips of gas, then the idle
tubes are plugged up.
Here is a link on fixing that problem. The idle tubes can be pulled
from the top if the choke plate is out of the way and cleaned. They
twist and clear the choke rod also. They need a physical ream at the
crimped end or better an oversize using a welding torch tip tool. Those
are small drill bits or files.
http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
Rebuilders won't normally physically ream tubes, they rely on chemicals
which won't always work on these carbs.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> Me again. My 1988 4.2 YJ is once again giving me problems. Just
> installed a rebuilt 2bl Carter 2 weeks ago. Flushed the fuel lines
> and changed the filter when I did it. First had problems with the
> choke pull-off, I didn't have that fixed for a day before I started
> having more trouble. Now, hot or cold, it just won't idle. When I
> push the clutch in to come to a stop, the RPMs fall first to about
> 1000, then to about 200, then the engine dies. It does it with or
> without the brakes applied. I checked everywhere for vacuum leaks on
> Saturday, found only one, and subsequently fixed it. It still doesn't
> idle. I checked the EGR for proper operation (the pintle moves back
> and forth at high RPMs as I believe it should). Plugged off the vac
> line to the brake booster and still, it stalled. The vac reservoir
> under the battery also functions. I pulled my distributor cap, it was
> clean as a whistle in there. My spark plugs have about 300 miles on
> them, and yes, I gapped them correctly.
>
> Other information that may or may not apply to the situation: it
> didn't start doing this progressively. It ran perfect all day, then
> at one stoplight, it just died. Also, since it started happening, I
> can smell melting plastic coming from somewhere under the hood, but I
> can't for the life of me locate the source. Does anyone have ANY
> ideas? I'm at the end of my rope.
>
The gas line from the filter to the carb has a U shape and is notorious
for holding enough junk in it to plug up an idle tube. I see that lots
just after a carb kit job if folks don't clean that line out.
To see if this is it, at idle carefully look down the carb throat and
give the gas a shot with your hand on the linkage. You should see two
nice sprays of gas in there. If you see drips of gas, then the idle
tubes are plugged up.
Here is a link on fixing that problem. The idle tubes can be pulled
from the top if the choke plate is out of the way and cleaned. They
twist and clear the choke rod also. They need a physical ream at the
crimped end or better an oversize using a welding torch tip tool. Those
are small drill bits or files.
http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
Rebuilders won't normally physically ream tubes, they rely on chemicals
which won't always work on these carbs.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
03-12-2007, 06:25 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 258 stalls at idle
Micah wrote:
> Me again. My 1988 4.2 YJ is once again giving me problems. Just
> installed a rebuilt 2bl Carter 2 weeks ago. Flushed the fuel lines
> and changed the filter when I did it. First had problems with the
> choke pull-off, I didn't have that fixed for a day before I started
> having more trouble. Now, hot or cold, it just won't idle. When I
> push the clutch in to come to a stop, the RPMs fall first to about
> 1000, then to about 200, then the engine dies. It does it with or
> without the brakes applied. I checked everywhere for vacuum leaks on
> Saturday, found only one, and subsequently fixed it. It still doesn't
> idle. I checked the EGR for proper operation (the pintle moves back
> and forth at high RPMs as I believe it should). Plugged off the vac
> line to the brake booster and still, it stalled. The vac reservoir
> under the battery also functions. I pulled my distributor cap, it was
> clean as a whistle in there. My spark plugs have about 300 miles on
> them, and yes, I gapped them correctly.
>
> Other information that may or may not apply to the situation: it
> didn't start doing this progressively. It ran perfect all day, then
> at one stoplight, it just died. Also, since it started happening, I
> can smell melting plastic coming from somewhere under the hood, but I
> can't for the life of me locate the source. Does anyone have ANY
> ideas? I'm at the end of my rope.
>
The gas line from the filter to the carb has a U shape and is notorious
for holding enough junk in it to plug up an idle tube. I see that lots
just after a carb kit job if folks don't clean that line out.
To see if this is it, at idle carefully look down the carb throat and
give the gas a shot with your hand on the linkage. You should see two
nice sprays of gas in there. If you see drips of gas, then the idle
tubes are plugged up.
Here is a link on fixing that problem. The idle tubes can be pulled
from the top if the choke plate is out of the way and cleaned. They
twist and clear the choke rod also. They need a physical ream at the
crimped end or better an oversize using a welding torch tip tool. Those
are small drill bits or files.
http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
Rebuilders won't normally physically ream tubes, they rely on chemicals
which won't always work on these carbs.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> Me again. My 1988 4.2 YJ is once again giving me problems. Just
> installed a rebuilt 2bl Carter 2 weeks ago. Flushed the fuel lines
> and changed the filter when I did it. First had problems with the
> choke pull-off, I didn't have that fixed for a day before I started
> having more trouble. Now, hot or cold, it just won't idle. When I
> push the clutch in to come to a stop, the RPMs fall first to about
> 1000, then to about 200, then the engine dies. It does it with or
> without the brakes applied. I checked everywhere for vacuum leaks on
> Saturday, found only one, and subsequently fixed it. It still doesn't
> idle. I checked the EGR for proper operation (the pintle moves back
> and forth at high RPMs as I believe it should). Plugged off the vac
> line to the brake booster and still, it stalled. The vac reservoir
> under the battery also functions. I pulled my distributor cap, it was
> clean as a whistle in there. My spark plugs have about 300 miles on
> them, and yes, I gapped them correctly.
>
> Other information that may or may not apply to the situation: it
> didn't start doing this progressively. It ran perfect all day, then
> at one stoplight, it just died. Also, since it started happening, I
> can smell melting plastic coming from somewhere under the hood, but I
> can't for the life of me locate the source. Does anyone have ANY
> ideas? I'm at the end of my rope.
>
The gas line from the filter to the carb has a U shape and is notorious
for holding enough junk in it to plug up an idle tube. I see that lots
just after a carb kit job if folks don't clean that line out.
To see if this is it, at idle carefully look down the carb throat and
give the gas a shot with your hand on the linkage. You should see two
nice sprays of gas in there. If you see drips of gas, then the idle
tubes are plugged up.
Here is a link on fixing that problem. The idle tubes can be pulled
from the top if the choke plate is out of the way and cleaned. They
twist and clear the choke rod also. They need a physical ream at the
crimped end or better an oversize using a welding torch tip tool. Those
are small drill bits or files.
http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
Rebuilders won't normally physically ream tubes, they rely on chemicals
which won't always work on these carbs.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
03-12-2007, 06:25 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 258 stalls at idle
Micah wrote:
> Me again. My 1988 4.2 YJ is once again giving me problems. Just
> installed a rebuilt 2bl Carter 2 weeks ago. Flushed the fuel lines
> and changed the filter when I did it. First had problems with the
> choke pull-off, I didn't have that fixed for a day before I started
> having more trouble. Now, hot or cold, it just won't idle. When I
> push the clutch in to come to a stop, the RPMs fall first to about
> 1000, then to about 200, then the engine dies. It does it with or
> without the brakes applied. I checked everywhere for vacuum leaks on
> Saturday, found only one, and subsequently fixed it. It still doesn't
> idle. I checked the EGR for proper operation (the pintle moves back
> and forth at high RPMs as I believe it should). Plugged off the vac
> line to the brake booster and still, it stalled. The vac reservoir
> under the battery also functions. I pulled my distributor cap, it was
> clean as a whistle in there. My spark plugs have about 300 miles on
> them, and yes, I gapped them correctly.
>
> Other information that may or may not apply to the situation: it
> didn't start doing this progressively. It ran perfect all day, then
> at one stoplight, it just died. Also, since it started happening, I
> can smell melting plastic coming from somewhere under the hood, but I
> can't for the life of me locate the source. Does anyone have ANY
> ideas? I'm at the end of my rope.
>
The gas line from the filter to the carb has a U shape and is notorious
for holding enough junk in it to plug up an idle tube. I see that lots
just after a carb kit job if folks don't clean that line out.
To see if this is it, at idle carefully look down the carb throat and
give the gas a shot with your hand on the linkage. You should see two
nice sprays of gas in there. If you see drips of gas, then the idle
tubes are plugged up.
Here is a link on fixing that problem. The idle tubes can be pulled
from the top if the choke plate is out of the way and cleaned. They
twist and clear the choke rod also. They need a physical ream at the
crimped end or better an oversize using a welding torch tip tool. Those
are small drill bits or files.
http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
Rebuilders won't normally physically ream tubes, they rely on chemicals
which won't always work on these carbs.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> Me again. My 1988 4.2 YJ is once again giving me problems. Just
> installed a rebuilt 2bl Carter 2 weeks ago. Flushed the fuel lines
> and changed the filter when I did it. First had problems with the
> choke pull-off, I didn't have that fixed for a day before I started
> having more trouble. Now, hot or cold, it just won't idle. When I
> push the clutch in to come to a stop, the RPMs fall first to about
> 1000, then to about 200, then the engine dies. It does it with or
> without the brakes applied. I checked everywhere for vacuum leaks on
> Saturday, found only one, and subsequently fixed it. It still doesn't
> idle. I checked the EGR for proper operation (the pintle moves back
> and forth at high RPMs as I believe it should). Plugged off the vac
> line to the brake booster and still, it stalled. The vac reservoir
> under the battery also functions. I pulled my distributor cap, it was
> clean as a whistle in there. My spark plugs have about 300 miles on
> them, and yes, I gapped them correctly.
>
> Other information that may or may not apply to the situation: it
> didn't start doing this progressively. It ran perfect all day, then
> at one stoplight, it just died. Also, since it started happening, I
> can smell melting plastic coming from somewhere under the hood, but I
> can't for the life of me locate the source. Does anyone have ANY
> ideas? I'm at the end of my rope.
>
The gas line from the filter to the carb has a U shape and is notorious
for holding enough junk in it to plug up an idle tube. I see that lots
just after a carb kit job if folks don't clean that line out.
To see if this is it, at idle carefully look down the carb throat and
give the gas a shot with your hand on the linkage. You should see two
nice sprays of gas in there. If you see drips of gas, then the idle
tubes are plugged up.
Here is a link on fixing that problem. The idle tubes can be pulled
from the top if the choke plate is out of the way and cleaned. They
twist and clear the choke rod also. They need a physical ream at the
crimped end or better an oversize using a welding torch tip tool. Those
are small drill bits or files.
http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064
Rebuilders won't normally physically ream tubes, they rely on chemicals
which won't always work on these carbs.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
03-13-2007, 09:40 AM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 258 stalls at idle
Just adding a note about a FREAK happening that just about drove me
wild!
When I got my 86 CJ it suffered from the common malady of the NOX
reduction "enrichment system" causing it to load up and die at idle.
Being an "old geezer" from before the EPA forced Carter to ruin the
BBD, I simply modified my BBD carb to eliminate the useless "enricher
motor" on the rear and re-set everything to old style specs while also
performing the "Nutter Bypass" to eliminate the no longer used
circuitry.
The CJ ran flawlessly for about 3 years and then started sputtering at
idle. "What the...?", I thought. So all through the carb I went
searching for the culprit. Found it floating around under the "idle
tubes". Where did this piece of flotsam come from? I found that
out as well, starting the Jeep and letting it run with the lid off the
air cleaner during adjustments I noticed that the "Air Injection"
hoses that branch off the back of the cleaner went through a stage
during warmup where they sputtered a little condensate back into the
air cleaner housing. Amongst that condensate were some tiny flakes
of "crud" just like the one I had removed! If one of these just
happens to make its way over to the float bowl opening, it will
eventually find its way to the "idle tubes" and repeat the problem.
I know it is a "long shot" but it was the logical reason for the
problem considering the surgical clean rooom method I use when
tinkering...
Those little problem makers are now disabled, and I don't plan on
tearing apart my BBD for another 10 years or so until the pump and
needle are tired!
Bruce
03-13-2007, 09:40 AM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 258 stalls at idle
Just adding a note about a FREAK happening that just about drove me
wild!
When I got my 86 CJ it suffered from the common malady of the NOX
reduction "enrichment system" causing it to load up and die at idle.
Being an "old geezer" from before the EPA forced Carter to ruin the
BBD, I simply modified my BBD carb to eliminate the useless "enricher
motor" on the rear and re-set everything to old style specs while also
performing the "Nutter Bypass" to eliminate the no longer used
circuitry.
The CJ ran flawlessly for about 3 years and then started sputtering at
idle. "What the...?", I thought. So all through the carb I went
searching for the culprit. Found it floating around under the "idle
tubes". Where did this piece of flotsam come from? I found that
out as well, starting the Jeep and letting it run with the lid off the
air cleaner during adjustments I noticed that the "Air Injection"
hoses that branch off the back of the cleaner went through a stage
during warmup where they sputtered a little condensate back into the
air cleaner housing. Amongst that condensate were some tiny flakes
of "crud" just like the one I had removed! If one of these just
happens to make its way over to the float bowl opening, it will
eventually find its way to the "idle tubes" and repeat the problem.
I know it is a "long shot" but it was the logical reason for the
problem considering the surgical clean rooom method I use when
tinkering...
Those little problem makers are now disabled, and I don't plan on
tearing apart my BBD for another 10 years or so until the pump and
needle are tired!
Bruce
03-13-2007, 09:40 AM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 258 stalls at idle
Just adding a note about a FREAK happening that just about drove me
wild!
When I got my 86 CJ it suffered from the common malady of the NOX
reduction "enrichment system" causing it to load up and die at idle.
Being an "old geezer" from before the EPA forced Carter to ruin the
BBD, I simply modified my BBD carb to eliminate the useless "enricher
motor" on the rear and re-set everything to old style specs while also
performing the "Nutter Bypass" to eliminate the no longer used
circuitry.
The CJ ran flawlessly for about 3 years and then started sputtering at
idle. "What the...?", I thought. So all through the carb I went
searching for the culprit. Found it floating around under the "idle
tubes". Where did this piece of flotsam come from? I found that
out as well, starting the Jeep and letting it run with the lid off the
air cleaner during adjustments I noticed that the "Air Injection"
hoses that branch off the back of the cleaner went through a stage
during warmup where they sputtered a little condensate back into the
air cleaner housing. Amongst that condensate were some tiny flakes
of "crud" just like the one I had removed! If one of these just
happens to make its way over to the float bowl opening, it will
eventually find its way to the "idle tubes" and repeat the problem.
I know it is a "long shot" but it was the logical reason for the
problem considering the surgical clean rooom method I use when
tinkering...
Those little problem makers are now disabled, and I don't plan on
tearing apart my BBD for another 10 years or so until the pump and
needle are tired!
Bruce
03-13-2007, 10:21 AM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 258 stalls at idle
Highcountry wrote:
> Just adding a note about a FREAK happening that just about drove me
> wild!
>
> When I got my 86 CJ it suffered from the common malady of the NOX
> reduction "enrichment system" causing it to load up and die at idle.
> Being an "old geezer" from before the EPA forced Carter to ruin the
> BBD, I simply modified my BBD carb to eliminate the useless "enricher
> motor" on the rear and re-set everything to old style specs while also
> performing the "Nutter Bypass" to eliminate the no longer used
> circuitry.
>
> The CJ ran flawlessly for about 3 years and then started sputtering at
> idle. "What the...?", I thought. So all through the carb I went
> searching for the culprit. Found it floating around under the "idle
> tubes". Where did this piece of flotsam come from? I found that
> out as well, starting the Jeep and letting it run with the lid off the
> air cleaner during adjustments I noticed that the "Air Injection"
> hoses that branch off the back of the cleaner went through a stage
> during warmup where they sputtered a little condensate back into the
> air cleaner housing. Amongst that condensate were some tiny flakes
> of "crud" just like the one I had removed! If one of these just
> happens to make its way over to the float bowl opening, it will
> eventually find its way to the "idle tubes" and repeat the problem.
> I know it is a "long shot" but it was the logical reason for the
> problem considering the surgical clean rooom method I use when
> tinkering...
>
> Those little problem makers are now disabled, and I don't plan on
> tearing apart my BBD for another 10 years or so until the pump and
> needle are tired!
>
> Bruce
>
I find I need to clean my float needle and seat every couple years. I
also needed emissions every couple years so I would normally just kit
the carb for $20.00 and have everything new. Those are really easy
carbs to kit.
I 'think' I know one source of your black chunks in the float bowl.
If you run that 258 engine out of gas when warmed up, the charcoal
canister is active because of the hot coolant in the CTO valve. Then
when you are trying to start it up, the choke will automatically be
closed which puts high vacuum on everything which will sometimes suck
charcoal bits out of the canister.
I have had this happen to me and have seen it happen to others. One
person from this group I think it was put a clear inline gas filter in
the vent line to the carb float bowl to prevent this from happening. He
reported finding bits of charcoal in the filter.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> Just adding a note about a FREAK happening that just about drove me
> wild!
>
> When I got my 86 CJ it suffered from the common malady of the NOX
> reduction "enrichment system" causing it to load up and die at idle.
> Being an "old geezer" from before the EPA forced Carter to ruin the
> BBD, I simply modified my BBD carb to eliminate the useless "enricher
> motor" on the rear and re-set everything to old style specs while also
> performing the "Nutter Bypass" to eliminate the no longer used
> circuitry.
>
> The CJ ran flawlessly for about 3 years and then started sputtering at
> idle. "What the...?", I thought. So all through the carb I went
> searching for the culprit. Found it floating around under the "idle
> tubes". Where did this piece of flotsam come from? I found that
> out as well, starting the Jeep and letting it run with the lid off the
> air cleaner during adjustments I noticed that the "Air Injection"
> hoses that branch off the back of the cleaner went through a stage
> during warmup where they sputtered a little condensate back into the
> air cleaner housing. Amongst that condensate were some tiny flakes
> of "crud" just like the one I had removed! If one of these just
> happens to make its way over to the float bowl opening, it will
> eventually find its way to the "idle tubes" and repeat the problem.
> I know it is a "long shot" but it was the logical reason for the
> problem considering the surgical clean rooom method I use when
> tinkering...
>
> Those little problem makers are now disabled, and I don't plan on
> tearing apart my BBD for another 10 years or so until the pump and
> needle are tired!
>
> Bruce
>
I find I need to clean my float needle and seat every couple years. I
also needed emissions every couple years so I would normally just kit
the carb for $20.00 and have everything new. Those are really easy
carbs to kit.
I 'think' I know one source of your black chunks in the float bowl.
If you run that 258 engine out of gas when warmed up, the charcoal
canister is active because of the hot coolant in the CTO valve. Then
when you are trying to start it up, the choke will automatically be
closed which puts high vacuum on everything which will sometimes suck
charcoal bits out of the canister.
I have had this happen to me and have seen it happen to others. One
person from this group I think it was put a clear inline gas filter in
the vent line to the carb float bowl to prevent this from happening. He
reported finding bits of charcoal in the filter.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)