Thank you to you and everyone else who replied. I'm going to talk with
the corporate office service rep before I do anything. I'm hoping they
can first, talk sense into this guy, second, see if they'll pay to get
it repaired. If anything I can try what everyone suggested.

The service person said that he "connected all the wires and it still
didn't work." I'm suspecting he knew about the switch on the top of the
radiator hose. I followed the electrical lines as best I could
yesterday and everything seemed plugged in, but I didn't follow it all
the way to the line to the fuse box.

Nathan

Mike Romain wrote:
> The switch for the fan is where the top rad hose clamps on. Sounds like
> they broke or unhooked it.
>
> Or the sucker just up and failed.... If you put 12 volts to the fan and
> it works, then the switch is suspect.
>
> The gas receipt would be a good way to prove it was working like the
> other poster mentioned.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> nathantw wrote:
> >
> > I was hoping someone can help. I went to get my radiator coolant
> > changed at a shop and when I came back I knew there was a problem
> > because my car hood was up. The service guy asked me if I ever had the
> > engine overheating and I said never. He said well, it's overheating at
> > it's not our fault. He said the radiator fan wasn't working. Well, he
> > said that if I can prove that it was working before I brought it in
> > then he'd fix it, otherwise it's broken and it wasn't his fault.
> >
> > So, first, can changing the engine coolant cause the fan to stop
> > working? Second, since the radiator fan isn't working, any idea how to
> > fix it? I checked the fuses and they're all fine. The service jerk
> > changed the top hose and it still didn't work.
> >
> > I have a Laredo with an I6 4.0L engine. I drove from San Fran to LA,
> > sat in 100 degree weather and traffic, drove back in 103 degree heat.
> > Filled up with gas numerous times without a problem. Now, since the
> > "coolant change" I can't even stop for gas without the engine temp
> > hitting the "overheat" zone.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Nathan

 

Ditto, that or the relay have given up a couple of times on my
Sisterinlaw's WJ. And it over heats right now without it.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> The switch for the fan is where the top rad hose clamps on. Sounds like
> they broke or unhooked it.
>
> Or the sucker just up and failed.... If you put 12 volts to the fan and
> it works, then the switch is suspect.
>
> The gas receipt would be a good way to prove it was working like the
> other poster mentioned.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Ditto, that or the relay have given up a couple of times on my
Sisterinlaw's WJ. And it over heats right now without it.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> The switch for the fan is where the top rad hose clamps on. Sounds like
> they broke or unhooked it.
>
> Or the sucker just up and failed.... If you put 12 volts to the fan and
> it works, then the switch is suspect.
>
> The gas receipt would be a good way to prove it was working like the
> other poster mentioned.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Ditto, that or the relay have given up a couple of times on my
Sisterinlaw's WJ. And it over heats right now without it.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> The switch for the fan is where the top rad hose clamps on. Sounds like
> they broke or unhooked it.
>
> Or the sucker just up and failed.... If you put 12 volts to the fan and
> it works, then the switch is suspect.
>
> The gas receipt would be a good way to prove it was working like the
> other poster mentioned.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Ditto, that or the relay have given up a couple of times on my
Sisterinlaw's WJ. And it over heats right now without it.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> The switch for the fan is where the top rad hose clamps on. Sounds like
> they broke or unhooked it.
>
> Or the sucker just up and failed.... If you put 12 volts to the fan and
> it works, then the switch is suspect.
>
> The gas receipt would be a good way to prove it was working like the
> other poster mentioned.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

If any of you were wondering, here's the "conclusion" to the saga. I called
the company's headquarters, spoke with the customer service person. He set
me up with going to another shop so they could look at the fan and the work
done by the other people. I went down there and left the car. After an hour
and a half I checked up on them and they were still trying to figure it out,
but now they had the "check engine" light on. Finally, a few hours later I
got a call that the fan motor was shorting out which was the reason for the
overheating and the fan not working.

I don't know, I still kind of feel that something happened at the first
place, but that's in the past and now I'm stuck with a broken fan and an
overheating car. It's tough driving around with the heater blasting just to
keep the engine cool.

So, the head technician at the new place (really nice guy) said that the fan
assembly (with radiator) would cost about $419 plus a few other things that
would cost blah, blah, and he dropped the labor price by half. All said and
done it would cost me $589 not including tax. Do you think that's a good
price? Is the fan really attached to the radiator or is there one I can just
bolt in? Is it something I can just take out of the replace myself or is it
something that a tech definitely needs to do?

One last question, there's a little fan that attaches to the motor that's
called a viscous fan. I noticed on my old price list that it's part of a tow
package. Does that mean I don't need it since I don't have the tow package?
It wouldn't hurt anything if I put it on anyway, right?

Again, thank you for all your responses and help.

Nathan

"nathantw" <nathantwong@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1123050037.901768.298460@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com...
>I was hoping someone can help. I went to get my radiator coolant
> changed at a shop and when I came back I knew there was a problem
> because my car hood was up. The service guy asked me if I ever had the
> engine overheating and I said never. He said well, it's overheating at
> it's not our fault. He said the radiator fan wasn't working. Well, he
> said that if I can prove that it was working before I brought it in
> then he'd fix it, otherwise it's broken and it wasn't his fault.
>
> So, first, can changing the engine coolant cause the fan to stop
> working? Second, since the radiator fan isn't working, any idea how to
> fix it? I checked the fuses and they're all fine. The service jerk
> changed the top hose and it still didn't work.
>
> I have a Laredo with an I6 4.0L engine. I drove from San Fran to LA,
> sat in 100 degree weather and traffic, drove back in 103 degree heat.
> Filled up with gas numerous times without a problem. Now, since the
> "coolant change" I can't even stop for gas without the engine temp
> hitting the "overheat" zone.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Nathan
>

 

If any of you were wondering, here's the "conclusion" to the saga. I called
the company's headquarters, spoke with the customer service person. He set
me up with going to another shop so they could look at the fan and the work
done by the other people. I went down there and left the car. After an hour
and a half I checked up on them and they were still trying to figure it out,
but now they had the "check engine" light on. Finally, a few hours later I
got a call that the fan motor was shorting out which was the reason for the
overheating and the fan not working.

I don't know, I still kind of feel that something happened at the first
place, but that's in the past and now I'm stuck with a broken fan and an
overheating car. It's tough driving around with the heater blasting just to
keep the engine cool.

So, the head technician at the new place (really nice guy) said that the fan
assembly (with radiator) would cost about $419 plus a few other things that
would cost blah, blah, and he dropped the labor price by half. All said and
done it would cost me $589 not including tax. Do you think that's a good
price? Is the fan really attached to the radiator or is there one I can just
bolt in? Is it something I can just take out of the replace myself or is it
something that a tech definitely needs to do?

One last question, there's a little fan that attaches to the motor that's
called a viscous fan. I noticed on my old price list that it's part of a tow
package. Does that mean I don't need it since I don't have the tow package?
It wouldn't hurt anything if I put it on anyway, right?

Again, thank you for all your responses and help.

Nathan

"nathantw" <nathantwong@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1123050037.901768.298460@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com...
>I was hoping someone can help. I went to get my radiator coolant
> changed at a shop and when I came back I knew there was a problem
> because my car hood was up. The service guy asked me if I ever had the
> engine overheating and I said never. He said well, it's overheating at
> it's not our fault. He said the radiator fan wasn't working. Well, he
> said that if I can prove that it was working before I brought it in
> then he'd fix it, otherwise it's broken and it wasn't his fault.
>
> So, first, can changing the engine coolant cause the fan to stop
> working? Second, since the radiator fan isn't working, any idea how to
> fix it? I checked the fuses and they're all fine. The service jerk
> changed the top hose and it still didn't work.
>
> I have a Laredo with an I6 4.0L engine. I drove from San Fran to LA,
> sat in 100 degree weather and traffic, drove back in 103 degree heat.
> Filled up with gas numerous times without a problem. Now, since the
> "coolant change" I can't even stop for gas without the engine temp
> hitting the "overheat" zone.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Nathan
>

 

If any of you were wondering, here's the "conclusion" to the saga. I called
the company's headquarters, spoke with the customer service person. He set
me up with going to another shop so they could look at the fan and the work
done by the other people. I went down there and left the car. After an hour
and a half I checked up on them and they were still trying to figure it out,
but now they had the "check engine" light on. Finally, a few hours later I
got a call that the fan motor was shorting out which was the reason for the
overheating and the fan not working.

I don't know, I still kind of feel that something happened at the first
place, but that's in the past and now I'm stuck with a broken fan and an
overheating car. It's tough driving around with the heater blasting just to
keep the engine cool.

So, the head technician at the new place (really nice guy) said that the fan
assembly (with radiator) would cost about $419 plus a few other things that
would cost blah, blah, and he dropped the labor price by half. All said and
done it would cost me $589 not including tax. Do you think that's a good
price? Is the fan really attached to the radiator or is there one I can just
bolt in? Is it something I can just take out of the replace myself or is it
something that a tech definitely needs to do?

One last question, there's a little fan that attaches to the motor that's
called a viscous fan. I noticed on my old price list that it's part of a tow
package. Does that mean I don't need it since I don't have the tow package?
It wouldn't hurt anything if I put it on anyway, right?

Again, thank you for all your responses and help.

Nathan

"nathantw" <nathantwong@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1123050037.901768.298460@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com...
>I was hoping someone can help. I went to get my radiator coolant
> changed at a shop and when I came back I knew there was a problem
> because my car hood was up. The service guy asked me if I ever had the
> engine overheating and I said never. He said well, it's overheating at
> it's not our fault. He said the radiator fan wasn't working. Well, he
> said that if I can prove that it was working before I brought it in
> then he'd fix it, otherwise it's broken and it wasn't his fault.
>
> So, first, can changing the engine coolant cause the fan to stop
> working? Second, since the radiator fan isn't working, any idea how to
> fix it? I checked the fuses and they're all fine. The service jerk
> changed the top hose and it still didn't work.
>
> I have a Laredo with an I6 4.0L engine. I drove from San Fran to LA,
> sat in 100 degree weather and traffic, drove back in 103 degree heat.
> Filled up with gas numerous times without a problem. Now, since the
> "coolant change" I can't even stop for gas without the engine temp
> hitting the "overheat" zone.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Nathan
>

 

If any of you were wondering, here's the "conclusion" to the saga. I called
the company's headquarters, spoke with the customer service person. He set
me up with going to another shop so they could look at the fan and the work
done by the other people. I went down there and left the car. After an hour
and a half I checked up on them and they were still trying to figure it out,
but now they had the "check engine" light on. Finally, a few hours later I
got a call that the fan motor was shorting out which was the reason for the
overheating and the fan not working.

I don't know, I still kind of feel that something happened at the first
place, but that's in the past and now I'm stuck with a broken fan and an
overheating car. It's tough driving around with the heater blasting just to
keep the engine cool.

So, the head technician at the new place (really nice guy) said that the fan
assembly (with radiator) would cost about $419 plus a few other things that
would cost blah, blah, and he dropped the labor price by half. All said and
done it would cost me $589 not including tax. Do you think that's a good
price? Is the fan really attached to the radiator or is there one I can just
bolt in? Is it something I can just take out of the replace myself or is it
something that a tech definitely needs to do?

One last question, there's a little fan that attaches to the motor that's
called a viscous fan. I noticed on my old price list that it's part of a tow
package. Does that mean I don't need it since I don't have the tow package?
It wouldn't hurt anything if I put it on anyway, right?

Again, thank you for all your responses and help.

Nathan

"nathantw" <nathantwong@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1123050037.901768.298460@o13g2000cwo.googlegr oups.com...
>I was hoping someone can help. I went to get my radiator coolant
> changed at a shop and when I came back I knew there was a problem
> because my car hood was up. The service guy asked me if I ever had the
> engine overheating and I said never. He said well, it's overheating at
> it's not our fault. He said the radiator fan wasn't working. Well, he
> said that if I can prove that it was working before I brought it in
> then he'd fix it, otherwise it's broken and it wasn't his fault.
>
> So, first, can changing the engine coolant cause the fan to stop
> working? Second, since the radiator fan isn't working, any idea how to
> fix it? I checked the fuses and they're all fine. The service jerk
> changed the top hose and it still didn't work.
>
> I have a Laredo with an I6 4.0L engine. I drove from San Fran to LA,
> sat in 100 degree weather and traffic, drove back in 103 degree heat.
> Filled up with gas numerous times without a problem. Now, since the
> "coolant change" I can't even stop for gas without the engine temp
> hitting the "overheat" zone.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Nathan
>

 

nathantw did pass the time by typing:

> So, the head technician at the new place (really nice guy) said that the fan
> assembly (with radiator) would cost about $419 plus a few other things that
> would cost blah, blah, and he dropped the labor price by half. All said and
> done it would cost me $589 not including tax. Do you think that's a good
> price? Is the fan really attached to the radiator or is there one I can just
> bolt in? Is it something I can just take out of the replace myself or is it
> something that a tech definitely needs to do?


As for doing the fan and radiator at the same time, that's -------- unless
the radiator is also shot. Try this place for price info (OEM)
http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/
There are aftermarket electrics but you have to do the wiring.

What is this place, sounds like a Midas.

> One last question, there's a little fan that attaches to the motor that's
> called a viscous fan. I noticed on my old price list that it's part of a tow
> package. Does that mean I don't need it since I don't have the tow package?
> It wouldn't hurt anything if I put it on anyway, right?

That's the normal motor driven fan vs the electric one. You would need it
and a new radiator shroud. Possibly different bolts for the water pump
pulley (where the mechanical fan bolts) See my page on the harmonic balancer
it shows the fan. http://revbeergoggles.com/hb/

The up-side is it pulls more air, the down-side is it saps motor power
to pull that air. Unless your drag racing it's not noticeable.

--
DougW