Re: #2 Piston Pics - Got it out!!! Need feedback
Likely.
I did mention I would be worried about a pounded crank or rod journal. If it was Mine I would be checking it out. Mike twaldron wrote: > > If that amount of suction ruined the rod bearing, and likely the > adjacent mains, wouldn't the crank be out of true? > > Mike Romain wrote: > > > Ok Bill, just got back from a bush run and read the thread and looked at > > all the photos.... > > > > Here is my $0.02 for what it is worth. ;-) > > > > Man, that set of photos sure looks like a classic case of gas wash > > killing one cylinder dead. Big Time! > > > > The gas washing all the carbon out and cleaning the rings so oil comes > > up and gets flash burnt when you change plugs and it fires for a while. > > While it's firing that flaky varnish looking crap builds up from the > > burning slurry. > > > > Then the build up finally kills the spark. > > > > No spark, so on a normal compression or firing stroke, the cylinder is > > in a vacuum mode and the piston needs to be pulled down against that > > vacuum rather than the spark firing the piston down. > > > > The vacuum must be released or the engine will up and stop. > > > > 'Some' oil will be then sucked up past the rings and sucked down past > > the valve guide seals when this is happening, whichever is looser. Hmm, > > valve guide seals maybe eh? So when it shuts off, the vacuum sucks oil > > down from the top, then it mixed with some gas to be thin and ------, > > ------s across to the spark plug threads. Hmmm....??? > > > > Now the poor old crank which sounds like a 10/10 is not used to or > > designed to have any piston under suction, the piston is under spark or > > intake or exhaust, no vacuum motion involved. > > > > Check on top of the oil filter on the block boss for a letter. If M and > > P are there, it is a factory 10/10 crank which is just 10 thousands > > under. You can go to 30 or 40 if desperate, 20 is fine. B means > > factory 10 thou over piston. C means cam 10 over. > > > > This vacuum in the cylinder because of no spark means the crank slams > > down on the bearing and wears the crap out of the center of the bottom > > bearing on the cap side. The cap side isn't designed for pulling, just > > being in neutral to the push from the piston rod on spark or sucking > > from the carb/ TB or blowing out the exhaust which is zip for pressure > > point wear like is showing. > > > > If the engine is newly rebuilt like advertised, the vacuum on the > > cylinder would be nasty. The compression was way up there, so the > > vacuum 'was' up there too... > > > > Bingo, burned out rod cap bearing and likely both main bearings on each > > side. > > > > I also would be worried the cap and rod and the crank journal could have > > been pounded out of round from this. > > > > I seem to remember a complaint about a timing ping or knock at idle??? > > Hmm vacuum on a piston starting the crank slapping on the bearing makes > > a neat knock. The bearing can wear away and the knock can lessen or get > > worse. The first while with the dead cylinder causes the big damage. > > > > Then the cylinder is polished up sweet! Well, carbon under heat with > > gas as a solvent has been sliding around those rings for a while, damn > > near a diamond polish, eh? > > > > No lip, so it 'sure' isn't burnt worn, it is gas washed or gas polished, > > that 'is' what they look like. I come from the carb days and have seen > > engines that look like that from short term gas wash. Normally on all > > or a half bank though, not like injection that just nails one. > > > > You need to open some other rod and main bearing caps and post the > > photos. > > > > If those are not burnt out or worn through then the gas wash theory > > holds, if everything is fried, then it was a dud engine someone sold you > > or the other person under the 'used' engine tag. > > > > If just gas washed, a hone on the cylinder and some new stock 10 under > > bearings should do the trick. You have to buy the whole bearing set and > > it is open, so just swap them all. > > > > While it is out, that one piston rod should have the cap torqued on > > properly > > and be mic'ed out for round. Most engine shops around here charge > > $20.00 to over grind a rod end or make it true round again and have a > > bearing to fit. > > > > Ok, that was long winded.... Whew... ;-) > > > > Mike > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > > > > William Oliveri wrote: > > > >>Got the piston out. Just tapped on the rod bolt a couple of times and it > >>loosened up. Came right out of the cylinder, no ridge, no problem. > >> > >>Here are the pics. Any feedback on the condition of this piston or what the > >>pic might tell you would be appreciated. > >> > >>http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../piston_2a.jpg > >>http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je.../piston_2b.jpg > >>http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/je...berrings2a.jpg > >> > >>Thanks, > >> > >>Bill > > -- > __________________________________________________ _________ > tw > > 03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5" > 01 XJ Sport > > There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." > -- Dave Barry > > Pronunciation: 'jEp > Function: noun > Date: 1940 > > Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase') > A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, > 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in > World War II. > > (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) > __________________________________________________ _________ |
Re: #2 Piston Pics - Got it out!!! Need feedback
On Mon, 1 Mar 2004, KurtS wrote:
> > From: Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> > > > I'm probably completely wrong-headed on this but for some irrational > > reason I'm willing to soak my hands in WD40 but not in other solvents, > > Just got the following from a friend of mine. Dunno the veracity of the > story but it's from the internet so it MUST be true :-) Interesting claim > that there is nothing in the stuff that would hurt you. [snip] That matches up pretty well with WD40's own version: 4. Welcome to WD-40 * About Us: Our History <URL:http://www.wd40.com/AboutUs/our_history.html> Water displacement formula, 40th version. According to their MSDS it is fairly safe stuff, non-carcenogenic, just don't inhale it. It'll rot your lungs from the inside out. 5. WD-40 <URL:http://www.biosci.ohio-state.edu/~jsmith/MSDS/WD-40.htm> |
Re: #2 Piston Pics - Got it out!!! Need feedback
On Mon, 1 Mar 2004, KurtS wrote:
> > From: Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> > > > I'm probably completely wrong-headed on this but for some irrational > > reason I'm willing to soak my hands in WD40 but not in other solvents, > > Just got the following from a friend of mine. Dunno the veracity of the > story but it's from the internet so it MUST be true :-) Interesting claim > that there is nothing in the stuff that would hurt you. [snip] That matches up pretty well with WD40's own version: 4. Welcome to WD-40 * About Us: Our History <URL:http://www.wd40.com/AboutUs/our_history.html> Water displacement formula, 40th version. According to their MSDS it is fairly safe stuff, non-carcenogenic, just don't inhale it. It'll rot your lungs from the inside out. 5. WD-40 <URL:http://www.biosci.ohio-state.edu/~jsmith/MSDS/WD-40.htm> |
Re: #2 Piston Pics - Got it out!!! Need feedback
On Mon, 1 Mar 2004, KurtS wrote:
> > From: Lee Ayrton <layrton@panix.com> > > > I'm probably completely wrong-headed on this but for some irrational > > reason I'm willing to soak my hands in WD40 but not in other solvents, > > Just got the following from a friend of mine. Dunno the veracity of the > story but it's from the internet so it MUST be true :-) Interesting claim > that there is nothing in the stuff that would hurt you. [snip] That matches up pretty well with WD40's own version: 4. Welcome to WD-40 * About Us: Our History <URL:http://www.wd40.com/AboutUs/our_history.html> Water displacement formula, 40th version. According to their MSDS it is fairly safe stuff, non-carcenogenic, just don't inhale it. It'll rot your lungs from the inside out. 5. WD-40 <URL:http://www.biosci.ohio-state.edu/~jsmith/MSDS/WD-40.htm> |
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