1994 YJ Axle
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1994 YJ Axle
Ditto.
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:46291fdf$0$496$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>
> What do you have to lose? I would advise you to get a new crush sleeve
and
> nut. The crush sleeve is a one time use item and cheap. Replace the
> sleeve and nut, torque it to spec, then see what happens. From your
> description, I am assuming there was no collection of metal bits in the
> case when you opened it up so I would guess you have a better than even
> chance of salvaging it. As I said, what have you got to lose?
>
> --
> Will Honea
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
God Bless America, Bill 0|||||||0
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:46291fdf$0$496$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>
> What do you have to lose? I would advise you to get a new crush sleeve
and
> nut. The crush sleeve is a one time use item and cheap. Replace the
> sleeve and nut, torque it to spec, then see what happens. From your
> description, I am assuming there was no collection of metal bits in the
> case when you opened it up so I would guess you have a better than even
> chance of salvaging it. As I said, what have you got to lose?
>
> --
> Will Honea
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1994 YJ Axle
On Apr 20, 2:29 pm, dmschu...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Apr 20, 3:25 pm, "Earle Horton" <graci...@usa.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > <dmschu...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> >news:1177096490.127952.213540@l77g2000hsb.googleg roups.com...
>
> > > On Apr 20, 2:12 pm, "Earle Horton" <graci...@usa.com> wrote:
> > > > It depends on what kind of noise, how loud, how soon you stopped driving
> > it,
> > > > and how you had it towed home. Dolly or on its own rear or front
> > wheels? I
> > > > had one in an old van start howling in the middle of Ohio on the
> > Interstate,
> > > > pulled into a truck stop, put Super Glue on the nut, torqued it to more
> > or
> > > > less the right torque, and it was good to go for years.
>
> > > > Your D35 has a crush sleeve that is used to set the bearing preload and
> > > > allow proper tightness on the pinion nut at the same time. There is a
> > > > proper procedure to follow, so it doesn't loosen up like yours did.
> > > > Sometimes they recommend a new nut, if it is a lock nut, or at least
> > > > chemical thread locker. I can tell you that Super Glue works great.
>
> > > > You may get by with new bearings, or even tightening the nut properly.
> > On
> > > > the other hand, you might have cooked the ring and pinion gears. Hard
> > to
> > > > tell without opening it up.
>
> > > > Earle
>
> > > > <dmschu...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> > > >news:1177091653.687199.260190@b75g2000hsg.googleg roups.com...
>
> > > > > On Apr 20, 1:24 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > > > > > When that happened to mine due to a so called 'Jeep' shop changing
> > the
> > > > > > yoke, I had a 'real' machine shop fix it properly. Mine needed all
> > new
> > > > > > bearings, seals and the proper shims. Ran about $500.00 for my Dana
> > 44.
>
> > > > > > Repairing a part like that is best left to the professionals in my
> > > > opinion.
>
> > > > > > If yours is the 35 C rear end, I would check with the local Jeep or
> > 4x4
> > > > > > clubs because lots of folks upgrade from those so extras should be
> > > > > > kicking around cheap. Or maybe they only upgrade after they break
> > it?
>
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > > > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> > > > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> > > > > > dmschu...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > > > > Hello all!
>
> > > > > > > It's finally warming up here in Buffalo, NY, and it's got me
> > thinking
> > > > > > > about fixing the jeep after having it garaged for the past two
> > years.
> > > > > > > Before I do anything, I though I'd start by asking for advice
> > here.
>
> > > > > > > The jeep is a 94 YJ, 4.0l. The problem is with the rear axle.
> > After
> > > > > > > having the pinion seal replaced, the pinion nut came loose on the
> > > > > > > highway at about 55mph. It made some bad noises...
>
> > > > > > > My question is what is the best approach to fix it? I can think of
> > the
> > > > > > > following options, but am not sure what the best would be:
>
> > > > > > > 1. Purchase a new axle. probably costly - around $1000?
>
> > > > > > > 2. rebuild the one I have. couple hundred? special tools?
> > something I
> > > > > > > can do myself?
>
> > > > > > > 3. purchase a used one. might be the affordable way to go, but
> > what
> > > > > > > is the downside?
>
> > > > > > > Thanks for any advice, and if anyone in the western new york
> > region
> > > > > > > has an axle (dana 35, 3.07 gears) laying aroung, let me know!
>
> > > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > > Doug- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > > > Thanks Mike. It didn't look like something I'd want to dig into
> > > > > without the
> > > > > right tools. Do you think that much damage would have been done to
> > > > > the
> > > > > point where the existing axle can't be rebuilt?- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > As soon as it started making the noise, I pulled off at the next exit,
> > > which
> > > was about 1/4 mile. In the parking lot I took off the rear drive
> > > shaft,
> > > tightened the pinion nut so the pinion was secure, and then drove
> > > home
> > > (less than one mile) with the front axle engaged. Looking at the guts
> > > of the
> > > differential, it all looks ok as far as I can tell. There are no
> > > chipped teeth,
> > > no metal chucks in the oil, etc. as far as the bearings, I can't tell.
>
> > > What harm would it do if I just put it all back together and torqued
> > > the pinion nut to
> > > where it should be. I'll add a drop or two of super glue and see what
> > > happens.
>
> > > Thoughts?
>
> > I would recommend Loc-Tite high strength thread locker or a similar product.
> > Clean the threads with acetone to make sure the stuff sticks. You may want
> > to invest in a new pinion nut. You have time to shop for the correct
> > materials and parts, where I didn't. Did it make noise while you were
> > driving it home? If it still made noise, then the damage is done, most
> > probably to the ring and pinion. If it is quiet with the pinion tightened
> > properly, then you may be lucky.
>
> > Earle- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Well, maybe for a change I'll have some good luck!
>
> It was nice & quiet on the way home. I'll post an update tomorrow
> afternoon.
>
> Doug- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
You can get the service manual here to follow the procedure:
http://www.jeepmania.com/Manuels/
> On Apr 20, 3:25 pm, "Earle Horton" <graci...@usa.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > <dmschu...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> >news:1177096490.127952.213540@l77g2000hsb.googleg roups.com...
>
> > > On Apr 20, 2:12 pm, "Earle Horton" <graci...@usa.com> wrote:
> > > > It depends on what kind of noise, how loud, how soon you stopped driving
> > it,
> > > > and how you had it towed home. Dolly or on its own rear or front
> > wheels? I
> > > > had one in an old van start howling in the middle of Ohio on the
> > Interstate,
> > > > pulled into a truck stop, put Super Glue on the nut, torqued it to more
> > or
> > > > less the right torque, and it was good to go for years.
>
> > > > Your D35 has a crush sleeve that is used to set the bearing preload and
> > > > allow proper tightness on the pinion nut at the same time. There is a
> > > > proper procedure to follow, so it doesn't loosen up like yours did.
> > > > Sometimes they recommend a new nut, if it is a lock nut, or at least
> > > > chemical thread locker. I can tell you that Super Glue works great.
>
> > > > You may get by with new bearings, or even tightening the nut properly.
> > On
> > > > the other hand, you might have cooked the ring and pinion gears. Hard
> > to
> > > > tell without opening it up.
>
> > > > Earle
>
> > > > <dmschu...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> > > >news:1177091653.687199.260190@b75g2000hsg.googleg roups.com...
>
> > > > > On Apr 20, 1:24 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > > > > > When that happened to mine due to a so called 'Jeep' shop changing
> > the
> > > > > > yoke, I had a 'real' machine shop fix it properly. Mine needed all
> > new
> > > > > > bearings, seals and the proper shims. Ran about $500.00 for my Dana
> > 44.
>
> > > > > > Repairing a part like that is best left to the professionals in my
> > > > opinion.
>
> > > > > > If yours is the 35 C rear end, I would check with the local Jeep or
> > 4x4
> > > > > > clubs because lots of folks upgrade from those so extras should be
> > > > > > kicking around cheap. Or maybe they only upgrade after they break
> > it?
>
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > > > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> > > > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> > > > > > dmschu...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > > > > Hello all!
>
> > > > > > > It's finally warming up here in Buffalo, NY, and it's got me
> > thinking
> > > > > > > about fixing the jeep after having it garaged for the past two
> > years.
> > > > > > > Before I do anything, I though I'd start by asking for advice
> > here.
>
> > > > > > > The jeep is a 94 YJ, 4.0l. The problem is with the rear axle.
> > After
> > > > > > > having the pinion seal replaced, the pinion nut came loose on the
> > > > > > > highway at about 55mph. It made some bad noises...
>
> > > > > > > My question is what is the best approach to fix it? I can think of
> > the
> > > > > > > following options, but am not sure what the best would be:
>
> > > > > > > 1. Purchase a new axle. probably costly - around $1000?
>
> > > > > > > 2. rebuild the one I have. couple hundred? special tools?
> > something I
> > > > > > > can do myself?
>
> > > > > > > 3. purchase a used one. might be the affordable way to go, but
> > what
> > > > > > > is the downside?
>
> > > > > > > Thanks for any advice, and if anyone in the western new york
> > region
> > > > > > > has an axle (dana 35, 3.07 gears) laying aroung, let me know!
>
> > > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > > Doug- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > > > Thanks Mike. It didn't look like something I'd want to dig into
> > > > > without the
> > > > > right tools. Do you think that much damage would have been done to
> > > > > the
> > > > > point where the existing axle can't be rebuilt?- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > As soon as it started making the noise, I pulled off at the next exit,
> > > which
> > > was about 1/4 mile. In the parking lot I took off the rear drive
> > > shaft,
> > > tightened the pinion nut so the pinion was secure, and then drove
> > > home
> > > (less than one mile) with the front axle engaged. Looking at the guts
> > > of the
> > > differential, it all looks ok as far as I can tell. There are no
> > > chipped teeth,
> > > no metal chucks in the oil, etc. as far as the bearings, I can't tell.
>
> > > What harm would it do if I just put it all back together and torqued
> > > the pinion nut to
> > > where it should be. I'll add a drop or two of super glue and see what
> > > happens.
>
> > > Thoughts?
>
> > I would recommend Loc-Tite high strength thread locker or a similar product.
> > Clean the threads with acetone to make sure the stuff sticks. You may want
> > to invest in a new pinion nut. You have time to shop for the correct
> > materials and parts, where I didn't. Did it make noise while you were
> > driving it home? If it still made noise, then the damage is done, most
> > probably to the ring and pinion. If it is quiet with the pinion tightened
> > properly, then you may be lucky.
>
> > Earle- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Well, maybe for a change I'll have some good luck!
>
> It was nice & quiet on the way home. I'll post an update tomorrow
> afternoon.
>
> Doug- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
You can get the service manual here to follow the procedure:
http://www.jeepmania.com/Manuels/
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1994 YJ Axle
On Apr 20, 2:29 pm, dmschu...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Apr 20, 3:25 pm, "Earle Horton" <graci...@usa.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > <dmschu...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> >news:1177096490.127952.213540@l77g2000hsb.googleg roups.com...
>
> > > On Apr 20, 2:12 pm, "Earle Horton" <graci...@usa.com> wrote:
> > > > It depends on what kind of noise, how loud, how soon you stopped driving
> > it,
> > > > and how you had it towed home. Dolly or on its own rear or front
> > wheels? I
> > > > had one in an old van start howling in the middle of Ohio on the
> > Interstate,
> > > > pulled into a truck stop, put Super Glue on the nut, torqued it to more
> > or
> > > > less the right torque, and it was good to go for years.
>
> > > > Your D35 has a crush sleeve that is used to set the bearing preload and
> > > > allow proper tightness on the pinion nut at the same time. There is a
> > > > proper procedure to follow, so it doesn't loosen up like yours did.
> > > > Sometimes they recommend a new nut, if it is a lock nut, or at least
> > > > chemical thread locker. I can tell you that Super Glue works great.
>
> > > > You may get by with new bearings, or even tightening the nut properly.
> > On
> > > > the other hand, you might have cooked the ring and pinion gears. Hard
> > to
> > > > tell without opening it up.
>
> > > > Earle
>
> > > > <dmschu...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> > > >news:1177091653.687199.260190@b75g2000hsg.googleg roups.com...
>
> > > > > On Apr 20, 1:24 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > > > > > When that happened to mine due to a so called 'Jeep' shop changing
> > the
> > > > > > yoke, I had a 'real' machine shop fix it properly. Mine needed all
> > new
> > > > > > bearings, seals and the proper shims. Ran about $500.00 for my Dana
> > 44.
>
> > > > > > Repairing a part like that is best left to the professionals in my
> > > > opinion.
>
> > > > > > If yours is the 35 C rear end, I would check with the local Jeep or
> > 4x4
> > > > > > clubs because lots of folks upgrade from those so extras should be
> > > > > > kicking around cheap. Or maybe they only upgrade after they break
> > it?
>
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > > > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> > > > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> > > > > > dmschu...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > > > > Hello all!
>
> > > > > > > It's finally warming up here in Buffalo, NY, and it's got me
> > thinking
> > > > > > > about fixing the jeep after having it garaged for the past two
> > years.
> > > > > > > Before I do anything, I though I'd start by asking for advice
> > here.
>
> > > > > > > The jeep is a 94 YJ, 4.0l. The problem is with the rear axle.
> > After
> > > > > > > having the pinion seal replaced, the pinion nut came loose on the
> > > > > > > highway at about 55mph. It made some bad noises...
>
> > > > > > > My question is what is the best approach to fix it? I can think of
> > the
> > > > > > > following options, but am not sure what the best would be:
>
> > > > > > > 1. Purchase a new axle. probably costly - around $1000?
>
> > > > > > > 2. rebuild the one I have. couple hundred? special tools?
> > something I
> > > > > > > can do myself?
>
> > > > > > > 3. purchase a used one. might be the affordable way to go, but
> > what
> > > > > > > is the downside?
>
> > > > > > > Thanks for any advice, and if anyone in the western new york
> > region
> > > > > > > has an axle (dana 35, 3.07 gears) laying aroung, let me know!
>
> > > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > > Doug- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > > > Thanks Mike. It didn't look like something I'd want to dig into
> > > > > without the
> > > > > right tools. Do you think that much damage would have been done to
> > > > > the
> > > > > point where the existing axle can't be rebuilt?- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > As soon as it started making the noise, I pulled off at the next exit,
> > > which
> > > was about 1/4 mile. In the parking lot I took off the rear drive
> > > shaft,
> > > tightened the pinion nut so the pinion was secure, and then drove
> > > home
> > > (less than one mile) with the front axle engaged. Looking at the guts
> > > of the
> > > differential, it all looks ok as far as I can tell. There are no
> > > chipped teeth,
> > > no metal chucks in the oil, etc. as far as the bearings, I can't tell.
>
> > > What harm would it do if I just put it all back together and torqued
> > > the pinion nut to
> > > where it should be. I'll add a drop or two of super glue and see what
> > > happens.
>
> > > Thoughts?
>
> > I would recommend Loc-Tite high strength thread locker or a similar product.
> > Clean the threads with acetone to make sure the stuff sticks. You may want
> > to invest in a new pinion nut. You have time to shop for the correct
> > materials and parts, where I didn't. Did it make noise while you were
> > driving it home? If it still made noise, then the damage is done, most
> > probably to the ring and pinion. If it is quiet with the pinion tightened
> > properly, then you may be lucky.
>
> > Earle- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Well, maybe for a change I'll have some good luck!
>
> It was nice & quiet on the way home. I'll post an update tomorrow
> afternoon.
>
> Doug- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
You can get the service manual here to follow the procedure:
http://www.jeepmania.com/Manuels/
> On Apr 20, 3:25 pm, "Earle Horton" <graci...@usa.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > <dmschu...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> >news:1177096490.127952.213540@l77g2000hsb.googleg roups.com...
>
> > > On Apr 20, 2:12 pm, "Earle Horton" <graci...@usa.com> wrote:
> > > > It depends on what kind of noise, how loud, how soon you stopped driving
> > it,
> > > > and how you had it towed home. Dolly or on its own rear or front
> > wheels? I
> > > > had one in an old van start howling in the middle of Ohio on the
> > Interstate,
> > > > pulled into a truck stop, put Super Glue on the nut, torqued it to more
> > or
> > > > less the right torque, and it was good to go for years.
>
> > > > Your D35 has a crush sleeve that is used to set the bearing preload and
> > > > allow proper tightness on the pinion nut at the same time. There is a
> > > > proper procedure to follow, so it doesn't loosen up like yours did.
> > > > Sometimes they recommend a new nut, if it is a lock nut, or at least
> > > > chemical thread locker. I can tell you that Super Glue works great.
>
> > > > You may get by with new bearings, or even tightening the nut properly.
> > On
> > > > the other hand, you might have cooked the ring and pinion gears. Hard
> > to
> > > > tell without opening it up.
>
> > > > Earle
>
> > > > <dmschu...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> > > >news:1177091653.687199.260190@b75g2000hsg.googleg roups.com...
>
> > > > > On Apr 20, 1:24 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > > > > > When that happened to mine due to a so called 'Jeep' shop changing
> > the
> > > > > > yoke, I had a 'real' machine shop fix it properly. Mine needed all
> > new
> > > > > > bearings, seals and the proper shims. Ran about $500.00 for my Dana
> > 44.
>
> > > > > > Repairing a part like that is best left to the professionals in my
> > > > opinion.
>
> > > > > > If yours is the 35 C rear end, I would check with the local Jeep or
> > 4x4
> > > > > > clubs because lots of folks upgrade from those so extras should be
> > > > > > kicking around cheap. Or maybe they only upgrade after they break
> > it?
>
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > > > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> > > > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> > > > > > dmschu...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > > > > Hello all!
>
> > > > > > > It's finally warming up here in Buffalo, NY, and it's got me
> > thinking
> > > > > > > about fixing the jeep after having it garaged for the past two
> > years.
> > > > > > > Before I do anything, I though I'd start by asking for advice
> > here.
>
> > > > > > > The jeep is a 94 YJ, 4.0l. The problem is with the rear axle.
> > After
> > > > > > > having the pinion seal replaced, the pinion nut came loose on the
> > > > > > > highway at about 55mph. It made some bad noises...
>
> > > > > > > My question is what is the best approach to fix it? I can think of
> > the
> > > > > > > following options, but am not sure what the best would be:
>
> > > > > > > 1. Purchase a new axle. probably costly - around $1000?
>
> > > > > > > 2. rebuild the one I have. couple hundred? special tools?
> > something I
> > > > > > > can do myself?
>
> > > > > > > 3. purchase a used one. might be the affordable way to go, but
> > what
> > > > > > > is the downside?
>
> > > > > > > Thanks for any advice, and if anyone in the western new york
> > region
> > > > > > > has an axle (dana 35, 3.07 gears) laying aroung, let me know!
>
> > > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > > Doug- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > > > Thanks Mike. It didn't look like something I'd want to dig into
> > > > > without the
> > > > > right tools. Do you think that much damage would have been done to
> > > > > the
> > > > > point where the existing axle can't be rebuilt?- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > As soon as it started making the noise, I pulled off at the next exit,
> > > which
> > > was about 1/4 mile. In the parking lot I took off the rear drive
> > > shaft,
> > > tightened the pinion nut so the pinion was secure, and then drove
> > > home
> > > (less than one mile) with the front axle engaged. Looking at the guts
> > > of the
> > > differential, it all looks ok as far as I can tell. There are no
> > > chipped teeth,
> > > no metal chucks in the oil, etc. as far as the bearings, I can't tell.
>
> > > What harm would it do if I just put it all back together and torqued
> > > the pinion nut to
> > > where it should be. I'll add a drop or two of super glue and see what
> > > happens.
>
> > > Thoughts?
>
> > I would recommend Loc-Tite high strength thread locker or a similar product.
> > Clean the threads with acetone to make sure the stuff sticks. You may want
> > to invest in a new pinion nut. You have time to shop for the correct
> > materials and parts, where I didn't. Did it make noise while you were
> > driving it home? If it still made noise, then the damage is done, most
> > probably to the ring and pinion. If it is quiet with the pinion tightened
> > properly, then you may be lucky.
>
> > Earle- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Well, maybe for a change I'll have some good luck!
>
> It was nice & quiet on the way home. I'll post an update tomorrow
> afternoon.
>
> Doug- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
You can get the service manual here to follow the procedure:
http://www.jeepmania.com/Manuels/
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1994 YJ Axle
On Apr 20, 2:29 pm, dmschu...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Apr 20, 3:25 pm, "Earle Horton" <graci...@usa.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > <dmschu...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> >news:1177096490.127952.213540@l77g2000hsb.googleg roups.com...
>
> > > On Apr 20, 2:12 pm, "Earle Horton" <graci...@usa.com> wrote:
> > > > It depends on what kind of noise, how loud, how soon you stopped driving
> > it,
> > > > and how you had it towed home. Dolly or on its own rear or front
> > wheels? I
> > > > had one in an old van start howling in the middle of Ohio on the
> > Interstate,
> > > > pulled into a truck stop, put Super Glue on the nut, torqued it to more
> > or
> > > > less the right torque, and it was good to go for years.
>
> > > > Your D35 has a crush sleeve that is used to set the bearing preload and
> > > > allow proper tightness on the pinion nut at the same time. There is a
> > > > proper procedure to follow, so it doesn't loosen up like yours did.
> > > > Sometimes they recommend a new nut, if it is a lock nut, or at least
> > > > chemical thread locker. I can tell you that Super Glue works great.
>
> > > > You may get by with new bearings, or even tightening the nut properly.
> > On
> > > > the other hand, you might have cooked the ring and pinion gears. Hard
> > to
> > > > tell without opening it up.
>
> > > > Earle
>
> > > > <dmschu...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> > > >news:1177091653.687199.260190@b75g2000hsg.googleg roups.com...
>
> > > > > On Apr 20, 1:24 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > > > > > When that happened to mine due to a so called 'Jeep' shop changing
> > the
> > > > > > yoke, I had a 'real' machine shop fix it properly. Mine needed all
> > new
> > > > > > bearings, seals and the proper shims. Ran about $500.00 for my Dana
> > 44.
>
> > > > > > Repairing a part like that is best left to the professionals in my
> > > > opinion.
>
> > > > > > If yours is the 35 C rear end, I would check with the local Jeep or
> > 4x4
> > > > > > clubs because lots of folks upgrade from those so extras should be
> > > > > > kicking around cheap. Or maybe they only upgrade after they break
> > it?
>
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > > > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> > > > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> > > > > > dmschu...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > > > > Hello all!
>
> > > > > > > It's finally warming up here in Buffalo, NY, and it's got me
> > thinking
> > > > > > > about fixing the jeep after having it garaged for the past two
> > years.
> > > > > > > Before I do anything, I though I'd start by asking for advice
> > here.
>
> > > > > > > The jeep is a 94 YJ, 4.0l. The problem is with the rear axle.
> > After
> > > > > > > having the pinion seal replaced, the pinion nut came loose on the
> > > > > > > highway at about 55mph. It made some bad noises...
>
> > > > > > > My question is what is the best approach to fix it? I can think of
> > the
> > > > > > > following options, but am not sure what the best would be:
>
> > > > > > > 1. Purchase a new axle. probably costly - around $1000?
>
> > > > > > > 2. rebuild the one I have. couple hundred? special tools?
> > something I
> > > > > > > can do myself?
>
> > > > > > > 3. purchase a used one. might be the affordable way to go, but
> > what
> > > > > > > is the downside?
>
> > > > > > > Thanks for any advice, and if anyone in the western new york
> > region
> > > > > > > has an axle (dana 35, 3.07 gears) laying aroung, let me know!
>
> > > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > > Doug- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > > > Thanks Mike. It didn't look like something I'd want to dig into
> > > > > without the
> > > > > right tools. Do you think that much damage would have been done to
> > > > > the
> > > > > point where the existing axle can't be rebuilt?- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > As soon as it started making the noise, I pulled off at the next exit,
> > > which
> > > was about 1/4 mile. In the parking lot I took off the rear drive
> > > shaft,
> > > tightened the pinion nut so the pinion was secure, and then drove
> > > home
> > > (less than one mile) with the front axle engaged. Looking at the guts
> > > of the
> > > differential, it all looks ok as far as I can tell. There are no
> > > chipped teeth,
> > > no metal chucks in the oil, etc. as far as the bearings, I can't tell.
>
> > > What harm would it do if I just put it all back together and torqued
> > > the pinion nut to
> > > where it should be. I'll add a drop or two of super glue and see what
> > > happens.
>
> > > Thoughts?
>
> > I would recommend Loc-Tite high strength thread locker or a similar product.
> > Clean the threads with acetone to make sure the stuff sticks. You may want
> > to invest in a new pinion nut. You have time to shop for the correct
> > materials and parts, where I didn't. Did it make noise while you were
> > driving it home? If it still made noise, then the damage is done, most
> > probably to the ring and pinion. If it is quiet with the pinion tightened
> > properly, then you may be lucky.
>
> > Earle- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Well, maybe for a change I'll have some good luck!
>
> It was nice & quiet on the way home. I'll post an update tomorrow
> afternoon.
>
> Doug- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
You can get the service manual here to follow the procedure:
http://www.jeepmania.com/Manuels/
> On Apr 20, 3:25 pm, "Earle Horton" <graci...@usa.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > <dmschu...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> >news:1177096490.127952.213540@l77g2000hsb.googleg roups.com...
>
> > > On Apr 20, 2:12 pm, "Earle Horton" <graci...@usa.com> wrote:
> > > > It depends on what kind of noise, how loud, how soon you stopped driving
> > it,
> > > > and how you had it towed home. Dolly or on its own rear or front
> > wheels? I
> > > > had one in an old van start howling in the middle of Ohio on the
> > Interstate,
> > > > pulled into a truck stop, put Super Glue on the nut, torqued it to more
> > or
> > > > less the right torque, and it was good to go for years.
>
> > > > Your D35 has a crush sleeve that is used to set the bearing preload and
> > > > allow proper tightness on the pinion nut at the same time. There is a
> > > > proper procedure to follow, so it doesn't loosen up like yours did.
> > > > Sometimes they recommend a new nut, if it is a lock nut, or at least
> > > > chemical thread locker. I can tell you that Super Glue works great.
>
> > > > You may get by with new bearings, or even tightening the nut properly.
> > On
> > > > the other hand, you might have cooked the ring and pinion gears. Hard
> > to
> > > > tell without opening it up.
>
> > > > Earle
>
> > > > <dmschu...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> > > >news:1177091653.687199.260190@b75g2000hsg.googleg roups.com...
>
> > > > > On Apr 20, 1:24 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > > > > > When that happened to mine due to a so called 'Jeep' shop changing
> > the
> > > > > > yoke, I had a 'real' machine shop fix it properly. Mine needed all
> > new
> > > > > > bearings, seals and the proper shims. Ran about $500.00 for my Dana
> > 44.
>
> > > > > > Repairing a part like that is best left to the professionals in my
> > > > opinion.
>
> > > > > > If yours is the 35 C rear end, I would check with the local Jeep or
> > 4x4
> > > > > > clubs because lots of folks upgrade from those so extras should be
> > > > > > kicking around cheap. Or maybe they only upgrade after they break
> > it?
>
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > > > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> > > > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> > > > > > dmschu...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > > > > Hello all!
>
> > > > > > > It's finally warming up here in Buffalo, NY, and it's got me
> > thinking
> > > > > > > about fixing the jeep after having it garaged for the past two
> > years.
> > > > > > > Before I do anything, I though I'd start by asking for advice
> > here.
>
> > > > > > > The jeep is a 94 YJ, 4.0l. The problem is with the rear axle.
> > After
> > > > > > > having the pinion seal replaced, the pinion nut came loose on the
> > > > > > > highway at about 55mph. It made some bad noises...
>
> > > > > > > My question is what is the best approach to fix it? I can think of
> > the
> > > > > > > following options, but am not sure what the best would be:
>
> > > > > > > 1. Purchase a new axle. probably costly - around $1000?
>
> > > > > > > 2. rebuild the one I have. couple hundred? special tools?
> > something I
> > > > > > > can do myself?
>
> > > > > > > 3. purchase a used one. might be the affordable way to go, but
> > what
> > > > > > > is the downside?
>
> > > > > > > Thanks for any advice, and if anyone in the western new york
> > region
> > > > > > > has an axle (dana 35, 3.07 gears) laying aroung, let me know!
>
> > > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > > Doug- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > > > Thanks Mike. It didn't look like something I'd want to dig into
> > > > > without the
> > > > > right tools. Do you think that much damage would have been done to
> > > > > the
> > > > > point where the existing axle can't be rebuilt?- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > As soon as it started making the noise, I pulled off at the next exit,
> > > which
> > > was about 1/4 mile. In the parking lot I took off the rear drive
> > > shaft,
> > > tightened the pinion nut so the pinion was secure, and then drove
> > > home
> > > (less than one mile) with the front axle engaged. Looking at the guts
> > > of the
> > > differential, it all looks ok as far as I can tell. There are no
> > > chipped teeth,
> > > no metal chucks in the oil, etc. as far as the bearings, I can't tell.
>
> > > What harm would it do if I just put it all back together and torqued
> > > the pinion nut to
> > > where it should be. I'll add a drop or two of super glue and see what
> > > happens.
>
> > > Thoughts?
>
> > I would recommend Loc-Tite high strength thread locker or a similar product.
> > Clean the threads with acetone to make sure the stuff sticks. You may want
> > to invest in a new pinion nut. You have time to shop for the correct
> > materials and parts, where I didn't. Did it make noise while you were
> > driving it home? If it still made noise, then the damage is done, most
> > probably to the ring and pinion. If it is quiet with the pinion tightened
> > properly, then you may be lucky.
>
> > Earle- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Well, maybe for a change I'll have some good luck!
>
> It was nice & quiet on the way home. I'll post an update tomorrow
> afternoon.
>
> Doug- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
You can get the service manual here to follow the procedure:
http://www.jeepmania.com/Manuels/
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1994 YJ Axle
On Apr 20, 2:29 pm, dmschu...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Apr 20, 3:25 pm, "Earle Horton" <graci...@usa.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > <dmschu...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> >news:1177096490.127952.213540@l77g2000hsb.googleg roups.com...
>
> > > On Apr 20, 2:12 pm, "Earle Horton" <graci...@usa.com> wrote:
> > > > It depends on what kind of noise, how loud, how soon you stopped driving
> > it,
> > > > and how you had it towed home. Dolly or on its own rear or front
> > wheels? I
> > > > had one in an old van start howling in the middle of Ohio on the
> > Interstate,
> > > > pulled into a truck stop, put Super Glue on the nut, torqued it to more
> > or
> > > > less the right torque, and it was good to go for years.
>
> > > > Your D35 has a crush sleeve that is used to set the bearing preload and
> > > > allow proper tightness on the pinion nut at the same time. There is a
> > > > proper procedure to follow, so it doesn't loosen up like yours did.
> > > > Sometimes they recommend a new nut, if it is a lock nut, or at least
> > > > chemical thread locker. I can tell you that Super Glue works great.
>
> > > > You may get by with new bearings, or even tightening the nut properly.
> > On
> > > > the other hand, you might have cooked the ring and pinion gears. Hard
> > to
> > > > tell without opening it up.
>
> > > > Earle
>
> > > > <dmschu...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> > > >news:1177091653.687199.260190@b75g2000hsg.googleg roups.com...
>
> > > > > On Apr 20, 1:24 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > > > > > When that happened to mine due to a so called 'Jeep' shop changing
> > the
> > > > > > yoke, I had a 'real' machine shop fix it properly. Mine needed all
> > new
> > > > > > bearings, seals and the proper shims. Ran about $500.00 for my Dana
> > 44.
>
> > > > > > Repairing a part like that is best left to the professionals in my
> > > > opinion.
>
> > > > > > If yours is the 35 C rear end, I would check with the local Jeep or
> > 4x4
> > > > > > clubs because lots of folks upgrade from those so extras should be
> > > > > > kicking around cheap. Or maybe they only upgrade after they break
> > it?
>
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > > > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> > > > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> > > > > > dmschu...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > > > > Hello all!
>
> > > > > > > It's finally warming up here in Buffalo, NY, and it's got me
> > thinking
> > > > > > > about fixing the jeep after having it garaged for the past two
> > years.
> > > > > > > Before I do anything, I though I'd start by asking for advice
> > here.
>
> > > > > > > The jeep is a 94 YJ, 4.0l. The problem is with the rear axle.
> > After
> > > > > > > having the pinion seal replaced, the pinion nut came loose on the
> > > > > > > highway at about 55mph. It made some bad noises...
>
> > > > > > > My question is what is the best approach to fix it? I can think of
> > the
> > > > > > > following options, but am not sure what the best would be:
>
> > > > > > > 1. Purchase a new axle. probably costly - around $1000?
>
> > > > > > > 2. rebuild the one I have. couple hundred? special tools?
> > something I
> > > > > > > can do myself?
>
> > > > > > > 3. purchase a used one. might be the affordable way to go, but
> > what
> > > > > > > is the downside?
>
> > > > > > > Thanks for any advice, and if anyone in the western new york
> > region
> > > > > > > has an axle (dana 35, 3.07 gears) laying aroung, let me know!
>
> > > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > > Doug- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > > > Thanks Mike. It didn't look like something I'd want to dig into
> > > > > without the
> > > > > right tools. Do you think that much damage would have been done to
> > > > > the
> > > > > point where the existing axle can't be rebuilt?- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > As soon as it started making the noise, I pulled off at the next exit,
> > > which
> > > was about 1/4 mile. In the parking lot I took off the rear drive
> > > shaft,
> > > tightened the pinion nut so the pinion was secure, and then drove
> > > home
> > > (less than one mile) with the front axle engaged. Looking at the guts
> > > of the
> > > differential, it all looks ok as far as I can tell. There are no
> > > chipped teeth,
> > > no metal chucks in the oil, etc. as far as the bearings, I can't tell.
>
> > > What harm would it do if I just put it all back together and torqued
> > > the pinion nut to
> > > where it should be. I'll add a drop or two of super glue and see what
> > > happens.
>
> > > Thoughts?
>
> > I would recommend Loc-Tite high strength thread locker or a similar product.
> > Clean the threads with acetone to make sure the stuff sticks. You may want
> > to invest in a new pinion nut. You have time to shop for the correct
> > materials and parts, where I didn't. Did it make noise while you were
> > driving it home? If it still made noise, then the damage is done, most
> > probably to the ring and pinion. If it is quiet with the pinion tightened
> > properly, then you may be lucky.
>
> > Earle- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Well, maybe for a change I'll have some good luck!
>
> It was nice & quiet on the way home. I'll post an update tomorrow
> afternoon.
>
> Doug- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
You can get the service manual here to follow the procedure:
http://www.jeepmania.com/Manuels/
> On Apr 20, 3:25 pm, "Earle Horton" <graci...@usa.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > <dmschu...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> >news:1177096490.127952.213540@l77g2000hsb.googleg roups.com...
>
> > > On Apr 20, 2:12 pm, "Earle Horton" <graci...@usa.com> wrote:
> > > > It depends on what kind of noise, how loud, how soon you stopped driving
> > it,
> > > > and how you had it towed home. Dolly or on its own rear or front
> > wheels? I
> > > > had one in an old van start howling in the middle of Ohio on the
> > Interstate,
> > > > pulled into a truck stop, put Super Glue on the nut, torqued it to more
> > or
> > > > less the right torque, and it was good to go for years.
>
> > > > Your D35 has a crush sleeve that is used to set the bearing preload and
> > > > allow proper tightness on the pinion nut at the same time. There is a
> > > > proper procedure to follow, so it doesn't loosen up like yours did.
> > > > Sometimes they recommend a new nut, if it is a lock nut, or at least
> > > > chemical thread locker. I can tell you that Super Glue works great.
>
> > > > You may get by with new bearings, or even tightening the nut properly.
> > On
> > > > the other hand, you might have cooked the ring and pinion gears. Hard
> > to
> > > > tell without opening it up.
>
> > > > Earle
>
> > > > <dmschu...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> > > >news:1177091653.687199.260190@b75g2000hsg.googleg roups.com...
>
> > > > > On Apr 20, 1:24 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > > > > > When that happened to mine due to a so called 'Jeep' shop changing
> > the
> > > > > > yoke, I had a 'real' machine shop fix it properly. Mine needed all
> > new
> > > > > > bearings, seals and the proper shims. Ran about $500.00 for my Dana
> > 44.
>
> > > > > > Repairing a part like that is best left to the professionals in my
> > > > opinion.
>
> > > > > > If yours is the 35 C rear end, I would check with the local Jeep or
> > 4x4
> > > > > > clubs because lots of folks upgrade from those so extras should be
> > > > > > kicking around cheap. Or maybe they only upgrade after they break
> > it?
>
> > > > > > Mike
> > > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > > > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > > > > > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> > > > > > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> > > > > > dmschu...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > > > > > Hello all!
>
> > > > > > > It's finally warming up here in Buffalo, NY, and it's got me
> > thinking
> > > > > > > about fixing the jeep after having it garaged for the past two
> > years.
> > > > > > > Before I do anything, I though I'd start by asking for advice
> > here.
>
> > > > > > > The jeep is a 94 YJ, 4.0l. The problem is with the rear axle.
> > After
> > > > > > > having the pinion seal replaced, the pinion nut came loose on the
> > > > > > > highway at about 55mph. It made some bad noises...
>
> > > > > > > My question is what is the best approach to fix it? I can think of
> > the
> > > > > > > following options, but am not sure what the best would be:
>
> > > > > > > 1. Purchase a new axle. probably costly - around $1000?
>
> > > > > > > 2. rebuild the one I have. couple hundred? special tools?
> > something I
> > > > > > > can do myself?
>
> > > > > > > 3. purchase a used one. might be the affordable way to go, but
> > what
> > > > > > > is the downside?
>
> > > > > > > Thanks for any advice, and if anyone in the western new york
> > region
> > > > > > > has an axle (dana 35, 3.07 gears) laying aroung, let me know!
>
> > > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > > Doug- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > > > Thanks Mike. It didn't look like something I'd want to dig into
> > > > > without the
> > > > > right tools. Do you think that much damage would have been done to
> > > > > the
> > > > > point where the existing axle can't be rebuilt?- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > As soon as it started making the noise, I pulled off at the next exit,
> > > which
> > > was about 1/4 mile. In the parking lot I took off the rear drive
> > > shaft,
> > > tightened the pinion nut so the pinion was secure, and then drove
> > > home
> > > (less than one mile) with the front axle engaged. Looking at the guts
> > > of the
> > > differential, it all looks ok as far as I can tell. There are no
> > > chipped teeth,
> > > no metal chucks in the oil, etc. as far as the bearings, I can't tell.
>
> > > What harm would it do if I just put it all back together and torqued
> > > the pinion nut to
> > > where it should be. I'll add a drop or two of super glue and see what
> > > happens.
>
> > > Thoughts?
>
> > I would recommend Loc-Tite high strength thread locker or a similar product.
> > Clean the threads with acetone to make sure the stuff sticks. You may want
> > to invest in a new pinion nut. You have time to shop for the correct
> > materials and parts, where I didn't. Did it make noise while you were
> > driving it home? If it still made noise, then the damage is done, most
> > probably to the ring and pinion. If it is quiet with the pinion tightened
> > properly, then you may be lucky.
>
> > Earle- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Well, maybe for a change I'll have some good luck!
>
> It was nice & quiet on the way home. I'll post an update tomorrow
> afternoon.
>
> Doug- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
You can get the service manual here to follow the procedure:
http://www.jeepmania.com/Manuels/
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: 1994 YJ Axle
On Fri, 20 Apr 2007 14:02:20 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>Unfortunately there isn't any way to know for sure until it gets opened
>and inspected. In my case, the bearings just took up the damage so it
>was ok to repair.
If the bearing lossend up because the nut was loose it would have
messed up the gear contach between pinion and ring. I would expect
them to be toast. If they are not, count your blessing but I would not
hold my breath. One more thing if you were ever considering changing
gear ratios, now would be the time to do it because if you have yo
replace rear gear then you anly have to do the front too(you are have
way there) One more tip, I have changed a LOT of pinion seals and
never had any problems. The trick is to scribe a line on nut and
pinion shaft BEFORE you remove nut and tighten it back to same place
when you are done, no more, no less. If you change the yoke it gets a
bit dicey because you are guess a bit because of minor yoke
differences and the only way you can be 100% "sure" is to pull pig and
check preload before and after with a inch pound wrench to match
values.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
wrote:
>Unfortunately there isn't any way to know for sure until it gets opened
>and inspected. In my case, the bearings just took up the damage so it
>was ok to repair.
If the bearing lossend up because the nut was loose it would have
messed up the gear contach between pinion and ring. I would expect
them to be toast. If they are not, count your blessing but I would not
hold my breath. One more thing if you were ever considering changing
gear ratios, now would be the time to do it because if you have yo
replace rear gear then you anly have to do the front too(you are have
way there) One more tip, I have changed a LOT of pinion seals and
never had any problems. The trick is to scribe a line on nut and
pinion shaft BEFORE you remove nut and tighten it back to same place
when you are done, no more, no less. If you change the yoke it gets a
bit dicey because you are guess a bit because of minor yoke
differences and the only way you can be 100% "sure" is to pull pig and
check preload before and after with a inch pound wrench to match
values.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: 1994 YJ Axle
On Fri, 20 Apr 2007 14:02:20 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>Unfortunately there isn't any way to know for sure until it gets opened
>and inspected. In my case, the bearings just took up the damage so it
>was ok to repair.
If the bearing lossend up because the nut was loose it would have
messed up the gear contach between pinion and ring. I would expect
them to be toast. If they are not, count your blessing but I would not
hold my breath. One more thing if you were ever considering changing
gear ratios, now would be the time to do it because if you have yo
replace rear gear then you anly have to do the front too(you are have
way there) One more tip, I have changed a LOT of pinion seals and
never had any problems. The trick is to scribe a line on nut and
pinion shaft BEFORE you remove nut and tighten it back to same place
when you are done, no more, no less. If you change the yoke it gets a
bit dicey because you are guess a bit because of minor yoke
differences and the only way you can be 100% "sure" is to pull pig and
check preload before and after with a inch pound wrench to match
values.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
wrote:
>Unfortunately there isn't any way to know for sure until it gets opened
>and inspected. In my case, the bearings just took up the damage so it
>was ok to repair.
If the bearing lossend up because the nut was loose it would have
messed up the gear contach between pinion and ring. I would expect
them to be toast. If they are not, count your blessing but I would not
hold my breath. One more thing if you were ever considering changing
gear ratios, now would be the time to do it because if you have yo
replace rear gear then you anly have to do the front too(you are have
way there) One more tip, I have changed a LOT of pinion seals and
never had any problems. The trick is to scribe a line on nut and
pinion shaft BEFORE you remove nut and tighten it back to same place
when you are done, no more, no less. If you change the yoke it gets a
bit dicey because you are guess a bit because of minor yoke
differences and the only way you can be 100% "sure" is to pull pig and
check preload before and after with a inch pound wrench to match
values.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: 1994 YJ Axle
On Fri, 20 Apr 2007 14:02:20 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>Unfortunately there isn't any way to know for sure until it gets opened
>and inspected. In my case, the bearings just took up the damage so it
>was ok to repair.
If the bearing lossend up because the nut was loose it would have
messed up the gear contach between pinion and ring. I would expect
them to be toast. If they are not, count your blessing but I would not
hold my breath. One more thing if you were ever considering changing
gear ratios, now would be the time to do it because if you have yo
replace rear gear then you anly have to do the front too(you are have
way there) One more tip, I have changed a LOT of pinion seals and
never had any problems. The trick is to scribe a line on nut and
pinion shaft BEFORE you remove nut and tighten it back to same place
when you are done, no more, no less. If you change the yoke it gets a
bit dicey because you are guess a bit because of minor yoke
differences and the only way you can be 100% "sure" is to pull pig and
check preload before and after with a inch pound wrench to match
values.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
wrote:
>Unfortunately there isn't any way to know for sure until it gets opened
>and inspected. In my case, the bearings just took up the damage so it
>was ok to repair.
If the bearing lossend up because the nut was loose it would have
messed up the gear contach between pinion and ring. I would expect
them to be toast. If they are not, count your blessing but I would not
hold my breath. One more thing if you were ever considering changing
gear ratios, now would be the time to do it because if you have yo
replace rear gear then you anly have to do the front too(you are have
way there) One more tip, I have changed a LOT of pinion seals and
never had any problems. The trick is to scribe a line on nut and
pinion shaft BEFORE you remove nut and tighten it back to same place
when you are done, no more, no less. If you change the yoke it gets a
bit dicey because you are guess a bit because of minor yoke
differences and the only way you can be 100% "sure" is to pull pig and
check preload before and after with a inch pound wrench to match
values.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: 1994 YJ Axle
On Fri, 20 Apr 2007 14:02:20 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>Unfortunately there isn't any way to know for sure until it gets opened
>and inspected. In my case, the bearings just took up the damage so it
>was ok to repair.
If the bearing lossend up because the nut was loose it would have
messed up the gear contach between pinion and ring. I would expect
them to be toast. If they are not, count your blessing but I would not
hold my breath. One more thing if you were ever considering changing
gear ratios, now would be the time to do it because if you have yo
replace rear gear then you anly have to do the front too(you are have
way there) One more tip, I have changed a LOT of pinion seals and
never had any problems. The trick is to scribe a line on nut and
pinion shaft BEFORE you remove nut and tighten it back to same place
when you are done, no more, no less. If you change the yoke it gets a
bit dicey because you are guess a bit because of minor yoke
differences and the only way you can be 100% "sure" is to pull pig and
check preload before and after with a inch pound wrench to match
values.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
wrote:
>Unfortunately there isn't any way to know for sure until it gets opened
>and inspected. In my case, the bearings just took up the damage so it
>was ok to repair.
If the bearing lossend up because the nut was loose it would have
messed up the gear contach between pinion and ring. I would expect
them to be toast. If they are not, count your blessing but I would not
hold my breath. One more thing if you were ever considering changing
gear ratios, now would be the time to do it because if you have yo
replace rear gear then you anly have to do the front too(you are have
way there) One more tip, I have changed a LOT of pinion seals and
never had any problems. The trick is to scribe a line on nut and
pinion shaft BEFORE you remove nut and tighten it back to same place
when you are done, no more, no less. If you change the yoke it gets a
bit dicey because you are guess a bit because of minor yoke
differences and the only way you can be 100% "sure" is to pull pig and
check preload before and after with a inch pound wrench to match
values.
-----------------
TheSnoMan.com
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1994 YJ Axle
SnoMan wrote:
> On Fri, 20 Apr 2007 14:02:20 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> Unfortunately there isn't any way to know for sure until it gets opened
>> and inspected. In my case, the bearings just took up the damage so it
>> was ok to repair.
>
>
> If the bearing lossend up because the nut was loose it would have
> messed up the gear contach between pinion and ring. I would expect
> them to be toast. If they are not, count your blessing but I would not
> hold my breath. One more thing if you were ever considering changing
> gear ratios, now would be the time to do it because if you have yo
> replace rear gear then you anly have to do the front too(you are have
> way there) One more tip, I have changed a LOT of pinion seals and
> never had any problems. The trick is to scribe a line on nut and
> pinion shaft BEFORE you remove nut and tighten it back to same place
> when you are done, no more, no less. If you change the yoke it gets a
> bit dicey because you are guess a bit because of minor yoke
> differences and the only way you can be 100% "sure" is to pull pig and
> check preload before and after with a inch pound wrench to match
> values.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
Mine works just fine man, I don't need to know how to hack fix it, I had
a machine shop do it right 'as I posted'.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> On Fri, 20 Apr 2007 14:02:20 -0400, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> Unfortunately there isn't any way to know for sure until it gets opened
>> and inspected. In my case, the bearings just took up the damage so it
>> was ok to repair.
>
>
> If the bearing lossend up because the nut was loose it would have
> messed up the gear contach between pinion and ring. I would expect
> them to be toast. If they are not, count your blessing but I would not
> hold my breath. One more thing if you were ever considering changing
> gear ratios, now would be the time to do it because if you have yo
> replace rear gear then you anly have to do the front too(you are have
> way there) One more tip, I have changed a LOT of pinion seals and
> never had any problems. The trick is to scribe a line on nut and
> pinion shaft BEFORE you remove nut and tighten it back to same place
> when you are done, no more, no less. If you change the yoke it gets a
> bit dicey because you are guess a bit because of minor yoke
> differences and the only way you can be 100% "sure" is to pull pig and
> check preload before and after with a inch pound wrench to match
> values.
> -----------------
> TheSnoMan.com
Mine works just fine man, I don't need to know how to hack fix it, I had
a machine shop do it right 'as I posted'.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
