John D

I have a 1990 wrangler 4.2L 5 speed with an 2300 Holley on it. This is the
way I bought it. I had the carb rebuilt and changed the wires, plugs, cap,
rotor, and coil. The thing does not run right.. It will not idle. I have a
zillion vaccum hoses that need to go somewhere. Am I better off replacing
everything with the stock carb or is there a good reason people put Holleys
on them.. I did buy the haynes manual for it. But since the carb is
different, it does not help much...

I did the auto choke upgrade to the carb also...

Thanks in advance for any help.


John

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Hi John,
You've been working on that a long time. It may save a bunch more
time if you take to a mechanic and let him hook it to his scope. A quick
balance test will tell you if you check further for compression
differences that may indicate a blown head gasket or bad intake valve.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

John D wrote:
>
> I have a 1990 wrangler 4.2L 5 speed with an 2300 Holley on it. This is the
> way I bought it. I had the carb rebuilt and changed the wires, plugs, cap,
> rotor, and coil. The thing does not run right.. It will not idle. I have a
> zillion vaccum hoses that need to go somewhere. Am I better off replacing
> everything with the stock carb or is there a good reason people put Holleys
> on them.. I did buy the haynes manual for it. But since the carb is
> different, it does not help much...
>
> I did the auto choke upgrade to the carb also...
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
>
> John

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Hi John,
You've been working on that a long time. It may save a bunch more
time if you take to a mechanic and let him hook it to his scope. A quick
balance test will tell you if you check further for compression
differences that may indicate a blown head gasket or bad intake valve.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

John D wrote:
>
> I have a 1990 wrangler 4.2L 5 speed with an 2300 Holley on it. This is the
> way I bought it. I had the carb rebuilt and changed the wires, plugs, cap,
> rotor, and coil. The thing does not run right.. It will not idle. I have a
> zillion vaccum hoses that need to go somewhere. Am I better off replacing
> everything with the stock carb or is there a good reason people put Holleys
> on them.. I did buy the haynes manual for it. But since the carb is
> different, it does not help much...
>
> I did the auto choke upgrade to the carb also...
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
>
> John

L.W.(=?iso-8859-1?Q?=DFill?=) Hughes III

Hi John,
You've been working on that a long time. It may save a bunch more
time if you take to a mechanic and let him hook it to his scope. A quick
balance test will tell you if you check further for compression
differences that may indicate a blown head gasket or bad intake valve.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

John D wrote:
>
> I have a 1990 wrangler 4.2L 5 speed with an 2300 Holley on it. This is the
> way I bought it. I had the carb rebuilt and changed the wires, plugs, cap,
> rotor, and coil. The thing does not run right.. It will not idle. I have a
> zillion vaccum hoses that need to go somewhere. Am I better off replacing
> everything with the stock carb or is there a good reason people put Holleys
> on them.. I did buy the haynes manual for it. But since the carb is
> different, it does not help much...
>
> I did the auto choke upgrade to the carb also...
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
>
> John

c

"John D" <flper@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:T2Xhd.3913$OU3.1604@trndny09...
> I have a 1990 wrangler 4.2L 5 speed with an 2300 Holley on it. This is
the
> way I bought it. I had the carb rebuilt and changed the wires, plugs,
cap,
> rotor, and coil. The thing does not run right.. It will not idle. I have
a
> zillion vaccum hoses that need to go somewhere. Am I better off replacing
> everything with the stock carb or is there a good reason people put
Holleys
> on them.. I did buy the haynes manual for it. But since the carb is
> different, it does not help much...
>
> I did the auto choke upgrade to the carb also...
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
>
>
> John
>
>

John,

I can't completely help you here, but hopefully I can get you started. First
off, you need to fix the hoses obviously. A carb cannot properly meter the
fuel if the vacuum signal is weak because of multiple leaks. For now, I
would have a handful of golf tees handy for plugging the hoses off that
don't get hooked up from the steps I tell you. You may also want to pick up
a couple feet of vacuum line to make "plugs" with. You can do this with a
couple inch piece of hose and a golf tee. Also, if you don't have to pass a
smog test, it is a possibility that many of these can be eliminated all
together.

The first thing we need to do is hook up a line from the vacuum advance
canister on the distributor to manifold vacuum. Find a vacuum port that is
below the throttle plate on the carb and hook it up there. It can also be
routed directly into the manifold. The next thing is if you have an
automatic trans, and it has a vacuum modulator on it, this need to go to
manifold vacuum as well. The charcoal canister (if you have one) goes to the
large fitting just above the fuel bowl on the Holley. There should be
another large vacuum fitting on the back of the carb at the baseplate for a
PCV hose. The EGR valve also goes to manifold vacuum, again, if you have
one. For now, this should be enough to get you idling so you can at least
see if the carb is going to work properly for you.

Plug the rest of the lines with the golf tees for now, and cap off all the
vacuum fittings left unused on the carb and manifold. Then turn the idle
mixture screws in all the way until they LIGHTLY seat in the hole. Don't
torque on them or you'll damage them. Then turn each screw out about 2 1/2
turns. I would set your timing to about 8-10 degrees advanced, at idle with
the vacuum advance hose unhooked from the distributor and plugged.

If you have all the hoses plugged, and the carb was properly rebuilt, the
engine should run OK and should idle good enough to let you fine tune it.
This will at least determine if the carb works decent or not. That carb is
basically a front half of a standard Holley 4 barrel, so it is relatively
easy to set up once everything else it right.

One other note on the carb, if you had any backfires through the carb while
trying to run it, chances are you ruptured the power valve diaphragm. If the
engine seems to run very rich, then I would replace the power valve before
you go any further. Post back with your findings and we can go from there.

HTH
Chris

c

"John D" <flper@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:T2Xhd.3913$OU3.1604@trndny09...
> I have a 1990 wrangler 4.2L 5 speed with an 2300 Holley on it. This is
the
> way I bought it. I had the carb rebuilt and changed the wires, plugs,
cap,
> rotor, and coil. The thing does not run right.. It will not idle. I have
a
> zillion vaccum hoses that need to go somewhere. Am I better off replacing
> everything with the stock carb or is there a good reason people put
Holleys
> on them.. I did buy the haynes manual for it. But since the carb is
> different, it does not help much...
>
> I did the auto choke upgrade to the carb also...
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
>
>
> John
>
>

John,

I can't completely help you here, but hopefully I can get you started. First
off, you need to fix the hoses obviously. A carb cannot properly meter the
fuel if the vacuum signal is weak because of multiple leaks. For now, I
would have a handful of golf tees handy for plugging the hoses off that
don't get hooked up from the steps I tell you. You may also want to pick up
a couple feet of vacuum line to make "plugs" with. You can do this with a
couple inch piece of hose and a golf tee. Also, if you don't have to pass a
smog test, it is a possibility that many of these can be eliminated all
together.

The first thing we need to do is hook up a line from the vacuum advance
canister on the distributor to manifold vacuum. Find a vacuum port that is
below the throttle plate on the carb and hook it up there. It can also be
routed directly into the manifold. The next thing is if you have an
automatic trans, and it has a vacuum modulator on it, this need to go to
manifold vacuum as well. The charcoal canister (if you have one) goes to the
large fitting just above the fuel bowl on the Holley. There should be
another large vacuum fitting on the back of the carb at the baseplate for a
PCV hose. The EGR valve also goes to manifold vacuum, again, if you have
one. For now, this should be enough to get you idling so you can at least
see if the carb is going to work properly for you.

Plug the rest of the lines with the golf tees for now, and cap off all the
vacuum fittings left unused on the carb and manifold. Then turn the idle
mixture screws in all the way until they LIGHTLY seat in the hole. Don't
torque on them or you'll damage them. Then turn each screw out about 2 1/2
turns. I would set your timing to about 8-10 degrees advanced, at idle with
the vacuum advance hose unhooked from the distributor and plugged.

If you have all the hoses plugged, and the carb was properly rebuilt, the
engine should run OK and should idle good enough to let you fine tune it.
This will at least determine if the carb works decent or not. That carb is
basically a front half of a standard Holley 4 barrel, so it is relatively
easy to set up once everything else it right.

One other note on the carb, if you had any backfires through the carb while
trying to run it, chances are you ruptured the power valve diaphragm. If the
engine seems to run very rich, then I would replace the power valve before
you go any further. Post back with your findings and we can go from there.

HTH
Chris

griffin

> One other note on the carb, if you had any backfires through the carb
while
> trying to run it, chances are you ruptured the power valve diaphragm. If
the
> engine seems to run very rich, then I would replace the power valve before
> you go any further. Post back with your findings and we can go from there.

Could this be what is causing my '85 CJ7 4cyl not to start? It backfired
several times ...once pretty bad. Now the fuel seems to be flooding the
carb, to the point where it leaks out the bottom a bit, and won't run
steady. It also smells very rich. If it starts at all, it's VERY unstable
and stalls quickly. For more details, refer to the post "What are my likely
sources of error".

--
griffin
'85 Jeep CJ-7
'97 Toyota Corolla SD

griffin

> One other note on the carb, if you had any backfires through the carb
while
> trying to run it, chances are you ruptured the power valve diaphragm. If
the
> engine seems to run very rich, then I would replace the power valve before
> you go any further. Post back with your findings and we can go from there.

Could this be what is causing my '85 CJ7 4cyl not to start? It backfired
several times ...once pretty bad. Now the fuel seems to be flooding the
carb, to the point where it leaks out the bottom a bit, and won't run
steady. It also smells very rich. If it starts at all, it's VERY unstable
and stalls quickly. For more details, refer to the post "What are my likely
sources of error".

--
griffin
'85 Jeep CJ-7
'97 Toyota Corolla SD

Mike Romain

No that poor sucker has some holly carb stuck on his so it won't run.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

griffin wrote:
>
> > One other note on the carb, if you had any backfires through the carb
> while
> > trying to run it, chances are you ruptured the power valve diaphragm. If
> the
> > engine seems to run very rich, then I would replace the power valve before
> > you go any further. Post back with your findings and we can go from there.
>
> Could this be what is causing my '85 CJ7 4cyl not to start? It backfired
> several times ...once pretty bad. Now the fuel seems to be flooding the
> carb, to the point where it leaks out the bottom a bit, and won't run
> steady. It also smells very rich. If it starts at all, it's VERY unstable
> and stalls quickly. For more details, refer to the post "What are my likely
> sources of error".
>
> --
> griffin
> '85 Jeep CJ-7
> '97 Toyota Corolla SD

Mike Romain

No that poor sucker has some holly carb stuck on his so it won't run.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

griffin wrote:
>
> > One other note on the carb, if you had any backfires through the carb
> while
> > trying to run it, chances are you ruptured the power valve diaphragm. If
> the
> > engine seems to run very rich, then I would replace the power valve before
> > you go any further. Post back with your findings and we can go from there.
>
> Could this be what is causing my '85 CJ7 4cyl not to start? It backfired
> several times ...once pretty bad. Now the fuel seems to be flooding the
> carb, to the point where it leaks out the bottom a bit, and won't run
> steady. It also smells very rich. If it starts at all, it's VERY unstable
> and stalls quickly. For more details, refer to the post "What are my likely
> sources of error".
>
> --
> griffin
> '85 Jeep CJ-7
> '97 Toyota Corolla SD