1990 Jeep Wrangler Islander 4wd Question
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1990 Jeep Wrangler Islander 4wd Question
Most of the front axle discconect issues tend to be in the vac lines,
the plugs, and the vac switch on the transfer case. The vac motor on the
axle does go bad but not very often. The fast and dirty way to get the
front axle into locked mode is to run a vac line from most any vac port
on the engine to the center port on the axle vac motor. This will
permanently lock the axle in 4wd mode. More wear and tear but this is
the same mode as all the TJ's ('97 and up) use. Or you can spend the $$
and get the cable disconnect kit.
The steering wheel 'jerk' is worrysome. It could be that you are not
used to the Jeep suspension and it's very tight turning radius. Or it
could be loose/worn suspension parts. Sway bar bushings are not that
critical, you do need them eventually but even mushed ones still work.
Have an alignment shop take a good look at the front ball joints, tie
rod ends, etc. You also need to find and inspect all 6 'U' joints. On a
'90, they will be likely be either already replaced or shot.
NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
> Thanks again to Mike & Roy....
>
> So a question I have then. If i don't hook up the stock vacuum 4wd
> what would be a good option that doesn't cost a lot of money to set 4wd
> back up on my Jeep. I've heard that the stock 4wd had some issues when
> getting wet or cold with the snow but not sure how common those issues
> are. Knowing my luck recently I'd encounter them though. I've also
> read where some guy rigged a chain with a lever to engage the 4wd but I
> don't want to do something like that because it seems a little worse
> off than the vacuum idea.
>
> I thought I had read for $200 - $300 I could get a 4wd conversion for
> that jeep or something that would work out quite nicely and be better
> than what it came with and very reliable. Am I correct or just
> hearing/reading crap out there? I don't mind spending to much to get
> some good reliable 4wd because I do want to do some trail rides in the
> mountains of Montana here. Other things that I know I need to get done
> are the sway bar and bushings but not sure what else to look for
> underneath. The sway bar bushings (if i'm saying that right look
> horrible), and I've noticed the steering wheel kind of jerk or jiggle
> when driving at times, not to much give in the wheel while turning
> which is nice but more jerking type stuff when going over the tiny
> lines made in the road. If that makes sense. I've been putting a good
> shopping list together and hoping to order some things next week to get
> moving. I appreciate any and all suggestions but don't have unlimited
> funs for the "toy" either. I do have a hard top so one of the items
> will have to be a bestop bikini or something though when I take the
> doors and hardtop off in the spring/summer for crusing around.
>
> Thanks again all.
> Dave
>
the plugs, and the vac switch on the transfer case. The vac motor on the
axle does go bad but not very often. The fast and dirty way to get the
front axle into locked mode is to run a vac line from most any vac port
on the engine to the center port on the axle vac motor. This will
permanently lock the axle in 4wd mode. More wear and tear but this is
the same mode as all the TJ's ('97 and up) use. Or you can spend the $$
and get the cable disconnect kit.
The steering wheel 'jerk' is worrysome. It could be that you are not
used to the Jeep suspension and it's very tight turning radius. Or it
could be loose/worn suspension parts. Sway bar bushings are not that
critical, you do need them eventually but even mushed ones still work.
Have an alignment shop take a good look at the front ball joints, tie
rod ends, etc. You also need to find and inspect all 6 'U' joints. On a
'90, they will be likely be either already replaced or shot.
NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
> Thanks again to Mike & Roy....
>
> So a question I have then. If i don't hook up the stock vacuum 4wd
> what would be a good option that doesn't cost a lot of money to set 4wd
> back up on my Jeep. I've heard that the stock 4wd had some issues when
> getting wet or cold with the snow but not sure how common those issues
> are. Knowing my luck recently I'd encounter them though. I've also
> read where some guy rigged a chain with a lever to engage the 4wd but I
> don't want to do something like that because it seems a little worse
> off than the vacuum idea.
>
> I thought I had read for $200 - $300 I could get a 4wd conversion for
> that jeep or something that would work out quite nicely and be better
> than what it came with and very reliable. Am I correct or just
> hearing/reading crap out there? I don't mind spending to much to get
> some good reliable 4wd because I do want to do some trail rides in the
> mountains of Montana here. Other things that I know I need to get done
> are the sway bar and bushings but not sure what else to look for
> underneath. The sway bar bushings (if i'm saying that right look
> horrible), and I've noticed the steering wheel kind of jerk or jiggle
> when driving at times, not to much give in the wheel while turning
> which is nice but more jerking type stuff when going over the tiny
> lines made in the road. If that makes sense. I've been putting a good
> shopping list together and hoping to order some things next week to get
> moving. I appreciate any and all suggestions but don't have unlimited
> funs for the "toy" either. I do have a hard top so one of the items
> will have to be a bestop bikini or something though when I take the
> doors and hardtop off in the spring/summer for crusing around.
>
> Thanks again all.
> Dave
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1990 Jeep Wrangler Islander 4wd Question
Most of the front axle discconect issues tend to be in the vac lines,
the plugs, and the vac switch on the transfer case. The vac motor on the
axle does go bad but not very often. The fast and dirty way to get the
front axle into locked mode is to run a vac line from most any vac port
on the engine to the center port on the axle vac motor. This will
permanently lock the axle in 4wd mode. More wear and tear but this is
the same mode as all the TJ's ('97 and up) use. Or you can spend the $$
and get the cable disconnect kit.
The steering wheel 'jerk' is worrysome. It could be that you are not
used to the Jeep suspension and it's very tight turning radius. Or it
could be loose/worn suspension parts. Sway bar bushings are not that
critical, you do need them eventually but even mushed ones still work.
Have an alignment shop take a good look at the front ball joints, tie
rod ends, etc. You also need to find and inspect all 6 'U' joints. On a
'90, they will be likely be either already replaced or shot.
NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
> Thanks again to Mike & Roy....
>
> So a question I have then. If i don't hook up the stock vacuum 4wd
> what would be a good option that doesn't cost a lot of money to set 4wd
> back up on my Jeep. I've heard that the stock 4wd had some issues when
> getting wet or cold with the snow but not sure how common those issues
> are. Knowing my luck recently I'd encounter them though. I've also
> read where some guy rigged a chain with a lever to engage the 4wd but I
> don't want to do something like that because it seems a little worse
> off than the vacuum idea.
>
> I thought I had read for $200 - $300 I could get a 4wd conversion for
> that jeep or something that would work out quite nicely and be better
> than what it came with and very reliable. Am I correct or just
> hearing/reading crap out there? I don't mind spending to much to get
> some good reliable 4wd because I do want to do some trail rides in the
> mountains of Montana here. Other things that I know I need to get done
> are the sway bar and bushings but not sure what else to look for
> underneath. The sway bar bushings (if i'm saying that right look
> horrible), and I've noticed the steering wheel kind of jerk or jiggle
> when driving at times, not to much give in the wheel while turning
> which is nice but more jerking type stuff when going over the tiny
> lines made in the road. If that makes sense. I've been putting a good
> shopping list together and hoping to order some things next week to get
> moving. I appreciate any and all suggestions but don't have unlimited
> funs for the "toy" either. I do have a hard top so one of the items
> will have to be a bestop bikini or something though when I take the
> doors and hardtop off in the spring/summer for crusing around.
>
> Thanks again all.
> Dave
>
the plugs, and the vac switch on the transfer case. The vac motor on the
axle does go bad but not very often. The fast and dirty way to get the
front axle into locked mode is to run a vac line from most any vac port
on the engine to the center port on the axle vac motor. This will
permanently lock the axle in 4wd mode. More wear and tear but this is
the same mode as all the TJ's ('97 and up) use. Or you can spend the $$
and get the cable disconnect kit.
The steering wheel 'jerk' is worrysome. It could be that you are not
used to the Jeep suspension and it's very tight turning radius. Or it
could be loose/worn suspension parts. Sway bar bushings are not that
critical, you do need them eventually but even mushed ones still work.
Have an alignment shop take a good look at the front ball joints, tie
rod ends, etc. You also need to find and inspect all 6 'U' joints. On a
'90, they will be likely be either already replaced or shot.
NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
> Thanks again to Mike & Roy....
>
> So a question I have then. If i don't hook up the stock vacuum 4wd
> what would be a good option that doesn't cost a lot of money to set 4wd
> back up on my Jeep. I've heard that the stock 4wd had some issues when
> getting wet or cold with the snow but not sure how common those issues
> are. Knowing my luck recently I'd encounter them though. I've also
> read where some guy rigged a chain with a lever to engage the 4wd but I
> don't want to do something like that because it seems a little worse
> off than the vacuum idea.
>
> I thought I had read for $200 - $300 I could get a 4wd conversion for
> that jeep or something that would work out quite nicely and be better
> than what it came with and very reliable. Am I correct or just
> hearing/reading crap out there? I don't mind spending to much to get
> some good reliable 4wd because I do want to do some trail rides in the
> mountains of Montana here. Other things that I know I need to get done
> are the sway bar and bushings but not sure what else to look for
> underneath. The sway bar bushings (if i'm saying that right look
> horrible), and I've noticed the steering wheel kind of jerk or jiggle
> when driving at times, not to much give in the wheel while turning
> which is nice but more jerking type stuff when going over the tiny
> lines made in the road. If that makes sense. I've been putting a good
> shopping list together and hoping to order some things next week to get
> moving. I appreciate any and all suggestions but don't have unlimited
> funs for the "toy" either. I do have a hard top so one of the items
> will have to be a bestop bikini or something though when I take the
> doors and hardtop off in the spring/summer for crusing around.
>
> Thanks again all.
> Dave
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1990 Jeep Wrangler Islander 4wd Question
http://collinsbros.stores.yahoo.net/4x4psilok.html
http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/d30shiftmotor/
http://web.archive.org/web/200301091.../insideD30.htm
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
>
> Thanks again to Mike & Roy....
>
> So a question I have then. If i don't hook up the stock vacuum 4wd
> what would be a good option that doesn't cost a lot of money to set 4wd
> back up on my Jeep. I've heard that the stock 4wd had some issues when
> getting wet or cold with the snow but not sure how common those issues
> are. Knowing my luck recently I'd encounter them though. I've also
> read where some guy rigged a chain with a lever to engage the 4wd but I
> don't want to do something like that because it seems a little worse
> off than the vacuum idea.
>
> I thought I had read for $200 - $300 I could get a 4wd conversion for
> that jeep or something that would work out quite nicely and be better
> than what it came with and very reliable. Am I correct or just
> hearing/reading crap out there? I don't mind spending to much to get
> some good reliable 4wd because I do want to do some trail rides in the
> mountains of Montana here. Other things that I know I need to get done
> are the sway bar and bushings but not sure what else to look for
> underneath. The sway bar bushings (if i'm saying that right look
> horrible), and I've noticed the steering wheel kind of jerk or jiggle
> when driving at times, not to much give in the wheel while turning
> which is nice but more jerking type stuff when going over the tiny
> lines made in the road. If that makes sense. I've been putting a good
> shopping list together and hoping to order some things next week to get
> moving. I appreciate any and all suggestions but don't have unlimited
> funs for the "toy" either. I do have a hard top so one of the items
> will have to be a bestop bikini or something though when I take the
> doors and hardtop off in the spring/summer for crusing around.
>
> Thanks again all.
> Dave
http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/d30shiftmotor/
http://web.archive.org/web/200301091.../insideD30.htm
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
>
> Thanks again to Mike & Roy....
>
> So a question I have then. If i don't hook up the stock vacuum 4wd
> what would be a good option that doesn't cost a lot of money to set 4wd
> back up on my Jeep. I've heard that the stock 4wd had some issues when
> getting wet or cold with the snow but not sure how common those issues
> are. Knowing my luck recently I'd encounter them though. I've also
> read where some guy rigged a chain with a lever to engage the 4wd but I
> don't want to do something like that because it seems a little worse
> off than the vacuum idea.
>
> I thought I had read for $200 - $300 I could get a 4wd conversion for
> that jeep or something that would work out quite nicely and be better
> than what it came with and very reliable. Am I correct or just
> hearing/reading crap out there? I don't mind spending to much to get
> some good reliable 4wd because I do want to do some trail rides in the
> mountains of Montana here. Other things that I know I need to get done
> are the sway bar and bushings but not sure what else to look for
> underneath. The sway bar bushings (if i'm saying that right look
> horrible), and I've noticed the steering wheel kind of jerk or jiggle
> when driving at times, not to much give in the wheel while turning
> which is nice but more jerking type stuff when going over the tiny
> lines made in the road. If that makes sense. I've been putting a good
> shopping list together and hoping to order some things next week to get
> moving. I appreciate any and all suggestions but don't have unlimited
> funs for the "toy" either. I do have a hard top so one of the items
> will have to be a bestop bikini or something though when I take the
> doors and hardtop off in the spring/summer for crusing around.
>
> Thanks again all.
> Dave
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1990 Jeep Wrangler Islander 4wd Question
http://collinsbros.stores.yahoo.net/4x4psilok.html
http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/d30shiftmotor/
http://web.archive.org/web/200301091.../insideD30.htm
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
>
> Thanks again to Mike & Roy....
>
> So a question I have then. If i don't hook up the stock vacuum 4wd
> what would be a good option that doesn't cost a lot of money to set 4wd
> back up on my Jeep. I've heard that the stock 4wd had some issues when
> getting wet or cold with the snow but not sure how common those issues
> are. Knowing my luck recently I'd encounter them though. I've also
> read where some guy rigged a chain with a lever to engage the 4wd but I
> don't want to do something like that because it seems a little worse
> off than the vacuum idea.
>
> I thought I had read for $200 - $300 I could get a 4wd conversion for
> that jeep or something that would work out quite nicely and be better
> than what it came with and very reliable. Am I correct or just
> hearing/reading crap out there? I don't mind spending to much to get
> some good reliable 4wd because I do want to do some trail rides in the
> mountains of Montana here. Other things that I know I need to get done
> are the sway bar and bushings but not sure what else to look for
> underneath. The sway bar bushings (if i'm saying that right look
> horrible), and I've noticed the steering wheel kind of jerk or jiggle
> when driving at times, not to much give in the wheel while turning
> which is nice but more jerking type stuff when going over the tiny
> lines made in the road. If that makes sense. I've been putting a good
> shopping list together and hoping to order some things next week to get
> moving. I appreciate any and all suggestions but don't have unlimited
> funs for the "toy" either. I do have a hard top so one of the items
> will have to be a bestop bikini or something though when I take the
> doors and hardtop off in the spring/summer for crusing around.
>
> Thanks again all.
> Dave
http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/d30shiftmotor/
http://web.archive.org/web/200301091.../insideD30.htm
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
>
> Thanks again to Mike & Roy....
>
> So a question I have then. If i don't hook up the stock vacuum 4wd
> what would be a good option that doesn't cost a lot of money to set 4wd
> back up on my Jeep. I've heard that the stock 4wd had some issues when
> getting wet or cold with the snow but not sure how common those issues
> are. Knowing my luck recently I'd encounter them though. I've also
> read where some guy rigged a chain with a lever to engage the 4wd but I
> don't want to do something like that because it seems a little worse
> off than the vacuum idea.
>
> I thought I had read for $200 - $300 I could get a 4wd conversion for
> that jeep or something that would work out quite nicely and be better
> than what it came with and very reliable. Am I correct or just
> hearing/reading crap out there? I don't mind spending to much to get
> some good reliable 4wd because I do want to do some trail rides in the
> mountains of Montana here. Other things that I know I need to get done
> are the sway bar and bushings but not sure what else to look for
> underneath. The sway bar bushings (if i'm saying that right look
> horrible), and I've noticed the steering wheel kind of jerk or jiggle
> when driving at times, not to much give in the wheel while turning
> which is nice but more jerking type stuff when going over the tiny
> lines made in the road. If that makes sense. I've been putting a good
> shopping list together and hoping to order some things next week to get
> moving. I appreciate any and all suggestions but don't have unlimited
> funs for the "toy" either. I do have a hard top so one of the items
> will have to be a bestop bikini or something though when I take the
> doors and hardtop off in the spring/summer for crusing around.
>
> Thanks again all.
> Dave
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1990 Jeep Wrangler Islander 4wd Question
http://collinsbros.stores.yahoo.net/4x4psilok.html
http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/d30shiftmotor/
http://web.archive.org/web/200301091.../insideD30.htm
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
>
> Thanks again to Mike & Roy....
>
> So a question I have then. If i don't hook up the stock vacuum 4wd
> what would be a good option that doesn't cost a lot of money to set 4wd
> back up on my Jeep. I've heard that the stock 4wd had some issues when
> getting wet or cold with the snow but not sure how common those issues
> are. Knowing my luck recently I'd encounter them though. I've also
> read where some guy rigged a chain with a lever to engage the 4wd but I
> don't want to do something like that because it seems a little worse
> off than the vacuum idea.
>
> I thought I had read for $200 - $300 I could get a 4wd conversion for
> that jeep or something that would work out quite nicely and be better
> than what it came with and very reliable. Am I correct or just
> hearing/reading crap out there? I don't mind spending to much to get
> some good reliable 4wd because I do want to do some trail rides in the
> mountains of Montana here. Other things that I know I need to get done
> are the sway bar and bushings but not sure what else to look for
> underneath. The sway bar bushings (if i'm saying that right look
> horrible), and I've noticed the steering wheel kind of jerk or jiggle
> when driving at times, not to much give in the wheel while turning
> which is nice but more jerking type stuff when going over the tiny
> lines made in the road. If that makes sense. I've been putting a good
> shopping list together and hoping to order some things next week to get
> moving. I appreciate any and all suggestions but don't have unlimited
> funs for the "toy" either. I do have a hard top so one of the items
> will have to be a bestop bikini or something though when I take the
> doors and hardtop off in the spring/summer for crusing around.
>
> Thanks again all.
> Dave
http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/d30shiftmotor/
http://web.archive.org/web/200301091.../insideD30.htm
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
>
> Thanks again to Mike & Roy....
>
> So a question I have then. If i don't hook up the stock vacuum 4wd
> what would be a good option that doesn't cost a lot of money to set 4wd
> back up on my Jeep. I've heard that the stock 4wd had some issues when
> getting wet or cold with the snow but not sure how common those issues
> are. Knowing my luck recently I'd encounter them though. I've also
> read where some guy rigged a chain with a lever to engage the 4wd but I
> don't want to do something like that because it seems a little worse
> off than the vacuum idea.
>
> I thought I had read for $200 - $300 I could get a 4wd conversion for
> that jeep or something that would work out quite nicely and be better
> than what it came with and very reliable. Am I correct or just
> hearing/reading crap out there? I don't mind spending to much to get
> some good reliable 4wd because I do want to do some trail rides in the
> mountains of Montana here. Other things that I know I need to get done
> are the sway bar and bushings but not sure what else to look for
> underneath. The sway bar bushings (if i'm saying that right look
> horrible), and I've noticed the steering wheel kind of jerk or jiggle
> when driving at times, not to much give in the wheel while turning
> which is nice but more jerking type stuff when going over the tiny
> lines made in the road. If that makes sense. I've been putting a good
> shopping list together and hoping to order some things next week to get
> moving. I appreciate any and all suggestions but don't have unlimited
> funs for the "toy" either. I do have a hard top so one of the items
> will have to be a bestop bikini or something though when I take the
> doors and hardtop off in the spring/summer for crusing around.
>
> Thanks again all.
> Dave
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1990 Jeep Wrangler Islander 4wd Question
I've read up on the 4x4 Posi-Lok and to me it sounds like a better and
easier install option than fabricating with a bike chain or break cable
as talked about in the other messages. Yes $190 compared to $20 but I
would think that the Posi-Lok system might work a bit better. If I'm
incorrect could someone let me know?
Also if I do the Posi-Lok which bypasses the vacuum actuator system for
the 4wd could I then do the ignition mod (The Nutter Mod/Bypass) and
then yank out all the extra crap underneath the hood as Mike states?
The main quesiton I would have with that is does it affect any of my
RPM, Fuel, Temp or other gauges by doing this?
One other thing I noticed is that the person that had it the last
couple of years put a 2" lift on the body and has larger tires on the
Jeep. So obviously the speedometer is incorrect when driving down the
road and I found out the fun way. Going 60 MPH is what the gauge read
but the officer told me I was doing 65 (since it was a 55 he thought he
would let me know). Is there a quick fix since I'm using larger tires
with the lift and everything and what would I need to know to buy the
correct device to get my speedometer back in tune. Yes I know simple
things but I'm learning.
Thanks again for any help.
Dave
easier install option than fabricating with a bike chain or break cable
as talked about in the other messages. Yes $190 compared to $20 but I
would think that the Posi-Lok system might work a bit better. If I'm
incorrect could someone let me know?
Also if I do the Posi-Lok which bypasses the vacuum actuator system for
the 4wd could I then do the ignition mod (The Nutter Mod/Bypass) and
then yank out all the extra crap underneath the hood as Mike states?
The main quesiton I would have with that is does it affect any of my
RPM, Fuel, Temp or other gauges by doing this?
One other thing I noticed is that the person that had it the last
couple of years put a 2" lift on the body and has larger tires on the
Jeep. So obviously the speedometer is incorrect when driving down the
road and I found out the fun way. Going 60 MPH is what the gauge read
but the officer told me I was doing 65 (since it was a 55 he thought he
would let me know). Is there a quick fix since I'm using larger tires
with the lift and everything and what would I need to know to buy the
correct device to get my speedometer back in tune. Yes I know simple
things but I'm learning.
Thanks again for any help.
Dave
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1990 Jeep Wrangler Islander 4wd Question
I've read up on the 4x4 Posi-Lok and to me it sounds like a better and
easier install option than fabricating with a bike chain or break cable
as talked about in the other messages. Yes $190 compared to $20 but I
would think that the Posi-Lok system might work a bit better. If I'm
incorrect could someone let me know?
Also if I do the Posi-Lok which bypasses the vacuum actuator system for
the 4wd could I then do the ignition mod (The Nutter Mod/Bypass) and
then yank out all the extra crap underneath the hood as Mike states?
The main quesiton I would have with that is does it affect any of my
RPM, Fuel, Temp or other gauges by doing this?
One other thing I noticed is that the person that had it the last
couple of years put a 2" lift on the body and has larger tires on the
Jeep. So obviously the speedometer is incorrect when driving down the
road and I found out the fun way. Going 60 MPH is what the gauge read
but the officer told me I was doing 65 (since it was a 55 he thought he
would let me know). Is there a quick fix since I'm using larger tires
with the lift and everything and what would I need to know to buy the
correct device to get my speedometer back in tune. Yes I know simple
things but I'm learning.
Thanks again for any help.
Dave
easier install option than fabricating with a bike chain or break cable
as talked about in the other messages. Yes $190 compared to $20 but I
would think that the Posi-Lok system might work a bit better. If I'm
incorrect could someone let me know?
Also if I do the Posi-Lok which bypasses the vacuum actuator system for
the 4wd could I then do the ignition mod (The Nutter Mod/Bypass) and
then yank out all the extra crap underneath the hood as Mike states?
The main quesiton I would have with that is does it affect any of my
RPM, Fuel, Temp or other gauges by doing this?
One other thing I noticed is that the person that had it the last
couple of years put a 2" lift on the body and has larger tires on the
Jeep. So obviously the speedometer is incorrect when driving down the
road and I found out the fun way. Going 60 MPH is what the gauge read
but the officer told me I was doing 65 (since it was a 55 he thought he
would let me know). Is there a quick fix since I'm using larger tires
with the lift and everything and what would I need to know to buy the
correct device to get my speedometer back in tune. Yes I know simple
things but I'm learning.
Thanks again for any help.
Dave
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1990 Jeep Wrangler Islander 4wd Question
I've read up on the 4x4 Posi-Lok and to me it sounds like a better and
easier install option than fabricating with a bike chain or break cable
as talked about in the other messages. Yes $190 compared to $20 but I
would think that the Posi-Lok system might work a bit better. If I'm
incorrect could someone let me know?
Also if I do the Posi-Lok which bypasses the vacuum actuator system for
the 4wd could I then do the ignition mod (The Nutter Mod/Bypass) and
then yank out all the extra crap underneath the hood as Mike states?
The main quesiton I would have with that is does it affect any of my
RPM, Fuel, Temp or other gauges by doing this?
One other thing I noticed is that the person that had it the last
couple of years put a 2" lift on the body and has larger tires on the
Jeep. So obviously the speedometer is incorrect when driving down the
road and I found out the fun way. Going 60 MPH is what the gauge read
but the officer told me I was doing 65 (since it was a 55 he thought he
would let me know). Is there a quick fix since I'm using larger tires
with the lift and everything and what would I need to know to buy the
correct device to get my speedometer back in tune. Yes I know simple
things but I'm learning.
Thanks again for any help.
Dave
easier install option than fabricating with a bike chain or break cable
as talked about in the other messages. Yes $190 compared to $20 but I
would think that the Posi-Lok system might work a bit better. If I'm
incorrect could someone let me know?
Also if I do the Posi-Lok which bypasses the vacuum actuator system for
the 4wd could I then do the ignition mod (The Nutter Mod/Bypass) and
then yank out all the extra crap underneath the hood as Mike states?
The main quesiton I would have with that is does it affect any of my
RPM, Fuel, Temp or other gauges by doing this?
One other thing I noticed is that the person that had it the last
couple of years put a 2" lift on the body and has larger tires on the
Jeep. So obviously the speedometer is incorrect when driving down the
road and I found out the fun way. Going 60 MPH is what the gauge read
but the officer told me I was doing 65 (since it was a 55 he thought he
would let me know). Is there a quick fix since I'm using larger tires
with the lift and everything and what would I need to know to buy the
correct device to get my speedometer back in tune. Yes I know simple
things but I'm learning.
Thanks again for any help.
Dave
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1990 Jeep Wrangler Islander 4wd Question
Everything I can think of works better with the Nutter bypass,
including emissions, but you should make the connections look as stock
as possible so as not to fail the smog check visual:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
http://www.----------.com/mirror/nutterbypass.htm
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/jnutter1.htm
Speedo:
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm
http://www.jeeptech.com/javaAps/Speedo.html
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
>
> I've read up on the 4x4 Posi-Lok and to me it sounds like a better and
> easier install option than fabricating with a bike chain or break cable
> as talked about in the other messages. Yes $190 compared to $20 but I
> would think that the Posi-Lok system might work a bit better. If I'm
> incorrect could someone let me know?
>
> Also if I do the Posi-Lok which bypasses the vacuum actuator system for
> the 4wd could I then do the ignition mod (The Nutter Mod/Bypass) and
> then yank out all the extra crap underneath the hood as Mike states?
> The main quesiton I would have with that is does it affect any of my
> RPM, Fuel, Temp or other gauges by doing this?
>
> One other thing I noticed is that the person that had it the last
> couple of years put a 2" lift on the body and has larger tires on the
> Jeep. So obviously the speedometer is incorrect when driving down the
> road and I found out the fun way. Going 60 MPH is what the gauge read
> but the officer told me I was doing 65 (since it was a 55 he thought he
> would let me know). Is there a quick fix since I'm using larger tires
> with the lift and everything and what would I need to know to buy the
> correct device to get my speedometer back in tune. Yes I know simple
> things but I'm learning.
>
> Thanks again for any help.
>
> Dave
including emissions, but you should make the connections look as stock
as possible so as not to fail the smog check visual:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
http://www.----------.com/mirror/nutterbypass.htm
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/jnutter1.htm
Speedo:
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm
http://www.jeeptech.com/javaAps/Speedo.html
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
>
> I've read up on the 4x4 Posi-Lok and to me it sounds like a better and
> easier install option than fabricating with a bike chain or break cable
> as talked about in the other messages. Yes $190 compared to $20 but I
> would think that the Posi-Lok system might work a bit better. If I'm
> incorrect could someone let me know?
>
> Also if I do the Posi-Lok which bypasses the vacuum actuator system for
> the 4wd could I then do the ignition mod (The Nutter Mod/Bypass) and
> then yank out all the extra crap underneath the hood as Mike states?
> The main quesiton I would have with that is does it affect any of my
> RPM, Fuel, Temp or other gauges by doing this?
>
> One other thing I noticed is that the person that had it the last
> couple of years put a 2" lift on the body and has larger tires on the
> Jeep. So obviously the speedometer is incorrect when driving down the
> road and I found out the fun way. Going 60 MPH is what the gauge read
> but the officer told me I was doing 65 (since it was a 55 he thought he
> would let me know). Is there a quick fix since I'm using larger tires
> with the lift and everything and what would I need to know to buy the
> correct device to get my speedometer back in tune. Yes I know simple
> things but I'm learning.
>
> Thanks again for any help.
>
> Dave
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1990 Jeep Wrangler Islander 4wd Question
Everything I can think of works better with the Nutter bypass,
including emissions, but you should make the connections look as stock
as possible so as not to fail the smog check visual:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
http://www.----------.com/mirror/nutterbypass.htm
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/jnutter1.htm
Speedo:
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm
http://www.jeeptech.com/javaAps/Speedo.html
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
>
> I've read up on the 4x4 Posi-Lok and to me it sounds like a better and
> easier install option than fabricating with a bike chain or break cable
> as talked about in the other messages. Yes $190 compared to $20 but I
> would think that the Posi-Lok system might work a bit better. If I'm
> incorrect could someone let me know?
>
> Also if I do the Posi-Lok which bypasses the vacuum actuator system for
> the 4wd could I then do the ignition mod (The Nutter Mod/Bypass) and
> then yank out all the extra crap underneath the hood as Mike states?
> The main quesiton I would have with that is does it affect any of my
> RPM, Fuel, Temp or other gauges by doing this?
>
> One other thing I noticed is that the person that had it the last
> couple of years put a 2" lift on the body and has larger tires on the
> Jeep. So obviously the speedometer is incorrect when driving down the
> road and I found out the fun way. Going 60 MPH is what the gauge read
> but the officer told me I was doing 65 (since it was a 55 he thought he
> would let me know). Is there a quick fix since I'm using larger tires
> with the lift and everything and what would I need to know to buy the
> correct device to get my speedometer back in tune. Yes I know simple
> things but I'm learning.
>
> Thanks again for any help.
>
> Dave
including emissions, but you should make the connections look as stock
as possible so as not to fail the smog check visual:
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm
http://www.----------.com/mirror/nutterbypass.htm
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/jnutter1.htm
Speedo:
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm
http://www.jeeptech.com/javaAps/Speedo.html
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
NewbieJeepGuy wrote:
>
> I've read up on the 4x4 Posi-Lok and to me it sounds like a better and
> easier install option than fabricating with a bike chain or break cable
> as talked about in the other messages. Yes $190 compared to $20 but I
> would think that the Posi-Lok system might work a bit better. If I'm
> incorrect could someone let me know?
>
> Also if I do the Posi-Lok which bypasses the vacuum actuator system for
> the 4wd could I then do the ignition mod (The Nutter Mod/Bypass) and
> then yank out all the extra crap underneath the hood as Mike states?
> The main quesiton I would have with that is does it affect any of my
> RPM, Fuel, Temp or other gauges by doing this?
>
> One other thing I noticed is that the person that had it the last
> couple of years put a 2" lift on the body and has larger tires on the
> Jeep. So obviously the speedometer is incorrect when driving down the
> road and I found out the fun way. Going 60 MPH is what the gauge read
> but the officer told me I was doing 65 (since it was a 55 he thought he
> would let me know). Is there a quick fix since I'm using larger tires
> with the lift and everything and what would I need to know to buy the
> correct device to get my speedometer back in tune. Yes I know simple
> things but I'm learning.
>
> Thanks again for any help.
>
> Dave