You are doing it correctly, you just have to keep on jacking.

You have to unload the front springs before the engine will lift off the
mount, so that is up a ways and because it is a three point system, it
will drop back in place pretty well.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com

mp@murklagoon.com wrote:
> On Wed, 2 Jan 2008 19:14:30 -0800 (PST), michael.white@charter.net
> wrote:
>
> OK thanks for the update on the one piece gasket .. I got the one
> piece gasket (NAPA folks including their regional manager didn't even
> know they exist).
>
> Got under .. observed that I need to pull the starter; pulled, no big
> deal.
>
> Now the "engine mount"; Need just a little more clearance and I see
> it has to come off or at the very least come loose .. so I read the
> Factory manual and do some Internet searching -- lots of suggestions.
> One person even uses an engine lift.
>
> The Jeep manual seems to be the easiest way .. though I don't see how
> it could actually work without doing damage while the Left mount is
> remains attached. That "Official" Jeep CJ8 manual says:
> "(a) Place jack under transmission."
> "(b) Disconnect engine right support cushion bracket from block and
> raise engine to allow sufficient clearance for oil pan removal."
>
> "Remove oil plan."
>
> So I do all that and VERY TENTATIVELY place my good floor jack under
> the transmission; lift the jack until it has slight pressure on the
> tranny. Then I applied a little pressure, a little more, then just a
> little more. The jack definitely has taken a load; but absolutely no
> sign of movement at the right engine mount. (Should I jack up some
> more??)
>
> So I stop; leaving the jack under the transmission.
>
> I decide I must have to actually remove the mount .. so I remove the
> cross-brace and the mount to frame bolts (jack to tranny still holding
> pressure). Then I say .. whoa, think this through.
>
> I reread some of the Internet posts and see that at least a couple use
> a 2/4 board under the front crank pulley for safety. (I guess they
> put that there after the mount is removed?) Then I think about how
> much problem it 'might' be to realign the engine/ engine mount/frame.
> Didn't see a mention of doing anything with the left motor mount. One
> person mentioned putting the jack under the oil pan with a 2X4 piece
> of wood for a cushion .. don't see how that works because the jack
> would have to come off with the motor mount removed in order to remove
> the pan itself.
>
> This cannot be this difficult, can it??
>
> So now I return again to this group for expertise and to learn how to
> do it right without damaging the CJ (or myself).
>
> Please .. how do I do this correctly. Please, please .. do it for me
> like a ** How to R&R the right front motor mount on a CJ8 in order to
> R&R the oil Pan gasket".
>
> I have pressure on me to have this CJ running by Friday and crunch
> time is now here?!
>
> Thanks ......
>
>> On Dec 31 2007, 11:20 am, m...@murklagoon.com wrote:
>>> A friend was trying to help me siphon some oil from my Scrambler to
>>> get an oil analysis done. (Analysis came back fine.)
>>>
>>> However, he used some plastic tubing to get the sample through the
>>> dipstick tube, got it caught somehow when pulling it out, and broke
>>> off an unknown quantity in the pan.
>>>
>>> So I assume I must drop the pan and remove whatever plastic tubing
>>> remains before starting the motor.
>>>
>>> Question #1: Since I'm already in there should I replace the oil
>>> pump? As far as I know the existing (and original) pump is working
>>> fine; and the engine has only 55,000 original miles.
>>>
>>> Question #1a: If you think I should replace the oil pump -- is there
>>> a recommended replacement pump/brand/part??
>>>
>>> Question #2: I have not dropped the pan yet. What gasket/gasket kit
>>> do you recommend I get? And what type sealer (if any) should I be
>>> using??
>>>
>>> I apologize for asking such basic questions but I haven't been doing
>>> much mechanicing for quite a while and don't know for sure how it
>>> should be done with today's parts. Advice on this forum has been very
>>> helpful numerous times .. so any suggestions will be most appreciated
>>> ......
>>>
>>> Thanks ....
>>>
>>> Mike
>> Mike,
>>
>> For #2, Napa sells a one piece gasket that works pretty good. I put
>> one on when I changed engines. No sealer required, which means you
>> won't need to replace it if you need to drop the oil pan again.
>>
>> Michael

 

On Wed, 09 Jan 2008 18:14:22 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

Mike,

>You are doing it correctly, you just have to keep on jacking.
>
>You have to unload the front springs before the engine will lift off the
>mount, so that is up a ways and because it is a three point system, it
>will drop back in place pretty well.
>

Unloading the front springs makes great sense; but would also seem to
require a lot of force on the jack/transmission and
transmission/engine connections.
]
So if I keep jacking up on the transmission, with the engine still
restrained with the fixed left mount but 'free' from the normally
fixed right mount .. then the engine will actually 'rotate' up enough
to give me room to work prior to any damage to anything??

All I have to do is make certain the engine is not 'fixed' to the
right mount.

And this will not damage the transmission,engine or the still fixed
left mount?

I sure don't want to hurt the CJ, of course .. nor me?!

Mike

>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
>Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
>
>mp@murklagoon.com wrote:
>> On Wed, 2 Jan 2008 19:14:30 -0800 (PST), michael.white@charter.net
>> wrote:
>>
>> OK thanks for the update on the one piece gasket .. I got the one
>> piece gasket (NAPA folks including their regional manager didn't even
>> know they exist).
>>
>> Got under .. observed that I need to pull the starter; pulled, no big
>> deal.
>>
>> Now the "engine mount"; Need just a little more clearance and I see
>> it has to come off or at the very least come loose .. so I read the
>> Factory manual and do some Internet searching -- lots of suggestions.
>> One person even uses an engine lift.
>>
>> The Jeep manual seems to be the easiest way .. though I don't see how
>> it could actually work without doing damage while the Left mount is
>> remains attached. That "Official" Jeep CJ8 manual says:
>> "(a) Place jack under transmission."
>> "(b) Disconnect engine right support cushion bracket from block and
>> raise engine to allow sufficient clearance for oil pan removal."
>>
>> "Remove oil plan."
>>
>> So I do all that and VERY TENTATIVELY place my good floor jack under
>> the transmission; lift the jack until it has slight pressure on the
>> tranny. Then I applied a little pressure, a little more, then just a
>> little more. The jack definitely has taken a load; but absolutely no
>> sign of movement at the right engine mount. (Should I jack up some
>> more??)
>>
>> So I stop; leaving the jack under the transmission.
>>
>> I decide I must have to actually remove the mount .. so I remove the
>> cross-brace and the mount to frame bolts (jack to tranny still holding
>> pressure). Then I say .. whoa, think this through.
>>
>> I reread some of the Internet posts and see that at least a couple use
>> a 2/4 board under the front crank pulley for safety. (I guess they
>> put that there after the mount is removed?) Then I think about how
>> much problem it 'might' be to realign the engine/ engine mount/frame.
>> Didn't see a mention of doing anything with the left motor mount. One
>> person mentioned putting the jack under the oil pan with a 2X4 piece
>> of wood for a cushion .. don't see how that works because the jack
>> would have to come off with the motor mount removed in order to remove
>> the pan itself.
>>
>> This cannot be this difficult, can it??
>>
>> So now I return again to this group for expertise and to learn how to
>> do it right without damaging the CJ (or myself).
>>
>> Please .. how do I do this correctly. Please, please .. do it for me
>> like a ** How to R&R the right front motor mount on a CJ8 in order to
>> R&R the oil Pan gasket".
>>
>> I have pressure on me to have this CJ running by Friday and crunch
>> time is now here?!
>>
>> Thanks ......
>>
>>> On Dec 31 2007, 11:20 am, m...@murklagoon.com wrote:
>>>> A friend was trying to help me siphon some oil from my Scrambler to
>>>> get an oil analysis done. (Analysis came back fine.)
>>>>
>>>> However, he used some plastic tubing to get the sample through the
>>>> dipstick tube, got it caught somehow when pulling it out, and broke
>>>> off an unknown quantity in the pan.
>>>>
>>>> So I assume I must drop the pan and remove whatever plastic tubing
>>>> remains before starting the motor.
>>>>
>>>> Question #1: Since I'm already in there should I replace the oil
>>>> pump? As far as I know the existing (and original) pump is working
>>>> fine; and the engine has only 55,000 original miles.
>>>>
>>>> Question #1a: If you think I should replace the oil pump -- is there
>>>> a recommended replacement pump/brand/part??
>>>>
>>>> Question #2: I have not dropped the pan yet. What gasket/gasket kit
>>>> do you recommend I get? And what type sealer (if any) should I be
>>>> using??
>>>>
>>>> I apologize for asking such basic questions but I haven't been doing
>>>> much mechanicing for quite a while and don't know for sure how it
>>>> should be done with today's parts. Advice on this forum has been very
>>>> helpful numerous times .. so any suggestions will be most appreciated
>>>> ......
>>>>
>>>> Thanks ....
>>>>
>>>> Mike
>>> Mike,
>>>
>>> For #2, Napa sells a one piece gasket that works pretty good. I put
>>> one on when I changed engines. No sealer required, which means you
>>> won't need to replace it if you need to drop the oil pan again.
>>>
>>> Michael

 

Yes. There are two plates, one on the engine side and one on the
'cushion' or rubber mount that just lift apart. A spray with
penetrating oil can't hurt.

I have done it too many times because I kept tearing the engine mounts
to pieces when I was mud bogging and pit wall running with my tall
skinny 33X9.5's that just don't spin. I still break them on our twisty
trails, but not as often.

I had to use a 2x4 plate on top of my jack grabber plate to reach with
my 33's and 3" lift.

Mike

mp@murklagoon.com wrote:
> On Wed, 09 Jan 2008 18:14:22 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
>> You are doing it correctly, you just have to keep on jacking.
>>
>> You have to unload the front springs before the engine will lift off the
>> mount, so that is up a ways and because it is a three point system, it
>> will drop back in place pretty well.
>>
>
> Unloading the front springs makes great sense; but would also seem to
> require a lot of force on the jack/transmission and
> transmission/engine connections.
> ]
> So if I keep jacking up on the transmission, with the engine still
> restrained with the fixed left mount but 'free' from the normally
> fixed right mount .. then the engine will actually 'rotate' up enough
> to give me room to work prior to any damage to anything??
>
> All I have to do is make certain the engine is not 'fixed' to the
> right mount.
>
> And this will not damage the transmission,engine or the still fixed
> left mount?
>
> I sure don't want to hurt the CJ, of course .. nor me?!
>
> Mike
>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
>> Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
>>
>> mp@murklagoon.com wrote:
>>> On Wed, 2 Jan 2008 19:14:30 -0800 (PST), michael.white@charter.net
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> OK thanks for the update on the one piece gasket .. I got the one
>>> piece gasket (NAPA folks including their regional manager didn't even
>>> know they exist).
>>>
>>> Got under .. observed that I need to pull the starter; pulled, no big
>>> deal.
>>>
>>> Now the "engine mount"; Need just a little more clearance and I see
>>> it has to come off or at the very least come loose .. so I read the
>>> Factory manual and do some Internet searching -- lots of suggestions.
>>> One person even uses an engine lift.
>>>
>>> The Jeep manual seems to be the easiest way .. though I don't see how
>>> it could actually work without doing damage while the Left mount is
>>> remains attached. That "Official" Jeep CJ8 manual says:
>>> "(a) Place jack under transmission."
>>> "(b) Disconnect engine right support cushion bracket from block and
>>> raise engine to allow sufficient clearance for oil pan removal."
>>>
>>> "Remove oil plan."
>>>
>>> So I do all that and VERY TENTATIVELY place my good floor jack under
>>> the transmission; lift the jack until it has slight pressure on the
>>> tranny. Then I applied a little pressure, a little more, then just a
>>> little more. The jack definitely has taken a load; but absolutely no
>>> sign of movement at the right engine mount. (Should I jack up some
>>> more??)
>>>
>>> So I stop; leaving the jack under the transmission.
>>>
>>> I decide I must have to actually remove the mount .. so I remove the
>>> cross-brace and the mount to frame bolts (jack to tranny still holding
>>> pressure). Then I say .. whoa, think this through.
>>>
>>> I reread some of the Internet posts and see that at least a couple use
>>> a 2/4 board under the front crank pulley for safety. (I guess they
>>> put that there after the mount is removed?) Then I think about how
>>> much problem it 'might' be to realign the engine/ engine mount/frame.
>>> Didn't see a mention of doing anything with the left motor mount. One
>>> person mentioned putting the jack under the oil pan with a 2X4 piece
>>> of wood for a cushion .. don't see how that works because the jack
>>> would have to come off with the motor mount removed in order to remove
>>> the pan itself.
>>>
>>> This cannot be this difficult, can it??
>>>
>>> So now I return again to this group for expertise and to learn how to
>>> do it right without damaging the CJ (or myself).
>>>
>>> Please .. how do I do this correctly. Please, please .. do it for me
>>> like a ** How to R&R the right front motor mount on a CJ8 in order to
>>> R&R the oil Pan gasket".
>>>
>>> I have pressure on me to have this CJ running by Friday and crunch
>>> time is now here?!
>>>
>>> Thanks ......
>>>
>>>> On Dec 31 2007, 11:20 am, m...@murklagoon.com wrote:
>>>>> A friend was trying to help me siphon some oil from my Scrambler to
>>>>> get an oil analysis done. (Analysis came back fine.)
>>>>>
>>>>> However, he used some plastic tubing to get the sample through the
>>>>> dipstick tube, got it caught somehow when pulling it out, and broke
>>>>> off an unknown quantity in the pan.
>>>>>
>>>>> So I assume I must drop the pan and remove whatever plastic tubing
>>>>> remains before starting the motor.
>>>>>
>>>>> Question #1: Since I'm already in there should I replace the oil
>>>>> pump? As far as I know the existing (and original) pump is working
>>>>> fine; and the engine has only 55,000 original miles.
>>>>>
>>>>> Question #1a: If you think I should replace the oil pump -- is there
>>>>> a recommended replacement pump/brand/part??
>>>>>
>>>>> Question #2: I have not dropped the pan yet. What gasket/gasket kit
>>>>> do you recommend I get? And what type sealer (if any) should I be
>>>>> using??
>>>>>
>>>>> I apologize for asking such basic questions but I haven't been doing
>>>>> much mechanicing for quite a while and don't know for sure how it
>>>>> should be done with today's parts. Advice on this forum has been very
>>>>> helpful numerous times .. so any suggestions will be most appreciated
>>>>> ......
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks ....
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike
>>>> Mike,
>>>>
>>>> For #2, Napa sells a one piece gasket that works pretty good. I put
>>>> one on when I changed engines. No sealer required, which means you
>>>> won't need to replace it if you need to drop the oil pan again.
>>>>
>>>> Michael

 

On Wed, 09 Jan 2008 20:50:24 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:

>Yes. There are two plates, one on the engine side and one on the
>'cushion' or rubber mount that just lift apart. A spray with
>penetrating oil can't hurt.
>
Then that leads to, I hope to my last question/confirmation.

People have been all over the map with what must be removed; from
everything including the support bar to everything; and the 82 Factory
Jeep manual says to "Disconnect engine right support cushion bracket
from block" (which is about the only bolts on the right mount I've not
yet touched, rather not.). Which I assume means those bolts from the
mount into the block??

So exactly what bolts do I "really" need to remove? From the block
itself, or as I think you are saying here just two bolts; one that is
the bolt that is itself in the way causing the problems for dropping
the pan and one bolt on the opposite side of the mount from the top
down??
>I have done it too many times because I kept tearing the engine mounts
>to pieces when I was mud bogging and pit wall running with my tall
>skinny 33X9.5's that just don't spin. I still break them on our twisty
>trails, but not as often.
>
Nothing like experience, huh?? Bet it doesn't take you very long to
do this any more???

>I had to use a 2x4 plate on top of my jack grabber plate to reach with
>my 33's and 3" lift.
>
Only slightly lifted, as you might remember .. and in a garage in
Florida with a good floor jack. Though I'm tempted to put a wood
block between the jack and transmission just to provide a little
cushion.

When I get this answer from you I plan to GoFerIt!!

Even though we are located a long way from each other; tomorrow
(Thursday) you will likely hear a shout of joy; or a scream of grief.
No??

Thanks ...... Mike


>Mike
>
>mp@murklagoon.com wrote:
>> On Wed, 09 Jan 2008 18:14:22 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>>> You are doing it correctly, you just have to keep on jacking.
>>>
>>> You have to unload the front springs before the engine will lift off the
>>> mount, so that is up a ways and because it is a three point system, it
>>> will drop back in place pretty well.
>>>
>>
>> Unloading the front springs makes great sense; but would also seem to
>> require a lot of force on the jack/transmission and
>> transmission/engine connections.
>> ]
>> So if I keep jacking up on the transmission, with the engine still
>> restrained with the fixed left mount but 'free' from the normally
>> fixed right mount .. then the engine will actually 'rotate' up enough
>> to give me room to work prior to any damage to anything??
>>
>> All I have to do is make certain the engine is not 'fixed' to the
>> right mount.
>>
>> And this will not damage the transmission,engine or the still fixed
>> left mount?
>>
>> I sure don't want to hurt the CJ, of course .. nor me?!
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
>>> Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
>>>
>>> mp@murklagoon.com wrote:
>>>> On Wed, 2 Jan 2008 19:14:30 -0800 (PST), michael.white@charter.net
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> OK thanks for the update on the one piece gasket .. I got the one
>>>> piece gasket (NAPA folks including their regional manager didn't even
>>>> know they exist).
>>>>
>>>> Got under .. observed that I need to pull the starter; pulled, no big
>>>> deal.
>>>>
>>>> Now the "engine mount"; Need just a little more clearance and I see
>>>> it has to come off or at the very least come loose .. so I read the
>>>> Factory manual and do some Internet searching -- lots of suggestions.
>>>> One person even uses an engine lift.
>>>>
>>>> The Jeep manual seems to be the easiest way .. though I don't see how
>>>> it could actually work without doing damage while the Left mount is
>>>> remains attached. That "Official" Jeep CJ8 manual says:
>>>> "(a) Place jack under transmission."
>>>> "(b) Disconnect engine right support cushion bracket from block and
>>>> raise engine to allow sufficient clearance for oil pan removal."
>>>>
>>>> "Remove oil plan."
>>>>
>>>> So I do all that and VERY TENTATIVELY place my good floor jack under
>>>> the transmission; lift the jack until it has slight pressure on the
>>>> tranny. Then I applied a little pressure, a little more, then just a
>>>> little more. The jack definitely has taken a load; but absolutely no
>>>> sign of movement at the right engine mount. (Should I jack up some
>>>> more??)
>>>>
>>>> So I stop; leaving the jack under the transmission.
>>>>
>>>> I decide I must have to actually remove the mount .. so I remove the
>>>> cross-brace and the mount to frame bolts (jack to tranny still holding
>>>> pressure). Then I say .. whoa, think this through.
>>>>
>>>> I reread some of the Internet posts and see that at least a couple use
>>>> a 2/4 board under the front crank pulley for safety. (I guess they
>>>> put that there after the mount is removed?) Then I think about how
>>>> much problem it 'might' be to realign the engine/ engine mount/frame.
>>>> Didn't see a mention of doing anything with the left motor mount. One
>>>> person mentioned putting the jack under the oil pan with a 2X4 piece
>>>> of wood for a cushion .. don't see how that works because the jack
>>>> would have to come off with the motor mount removed in order to remove
>>>> the pan itself.
>>>>
>>>> This cannot be this difficult, can it??
>>>>
>>>> So now I return again to this group for expertise and to learn how to
>>>> do it right without damaging the CJ (or myself).
>>>>
>>>> Please .. how do I do this correctly. Please, please .. do it for me
>>>> like a ** How to R&R the right front motor mount on a CJ8 in order to
>>>> R&R the oil Pan gasket".
>>>>
>>>> I have pressure on me to have this CJ running by Friday and crunch
>>>> time is now here?!
>>>>
>>>> Thanks ......
>>>>
>>>>> On Dec 31 2007, 11:20 am, m...@murklagoon.com wrote:
>>>>>> A friend was trying to help me siphon some oil from my Scrambler to
>>>>>> get an oil analysis done. (Analysis came back fine.)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> However, he used some plastic tubing to get the sample through the
>>>>>> dipstick tube, got it caught somehow when pulling it out, and broke
>>>>>> off an unknown quantity in the pan.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> So I assume I must drop the pan and remove whatever plastic tubing
>>>>>> remains before starting the motor.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Question #1: Since I'm already in there should I replace the oil
>>>>>> pump? As far as I know the existing (and original) pump is working
>>>>>> fine; and the engine has only 55,000 original miles.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Question #1a: If you think I should replace the oil pump -- is there
>>>>>> a recommended replacement pump/brand/part??
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Question #2: I have not dropped the pan yet. What gasket/gasket kit
>>>>>> do you recommend I get? And what type sealer (if any) should I be
>>>>>> using??
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I apologize for asking such basic questions but I haven't been doing
>>>>>> much mechanicing for quite a while and don't know for sure how it
>>>>>> should be done with today's parts. Advice on this forum has been very
>>>>>> helpful numerous times .. so any suggestions will be most appreciated
>>>>>> ......
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks ....
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mike
>>>>> Mike,
>>>>>
>>>>> For #2, Napa sells a one piece gasket that works pretty good. I put
>>>>> one on when I changed engines. No sealer required, which means you
>>>>> won't need to replace it if you need to drop the oil pan again.
>>>>>
>>>>> Michael

 

On the frame side, the rubber mount has a long bolt that goes through
the frame plate. This one is a pain in the butt to try and line up and
would need one large person on a 6' bar to make it go back together...

On the engine side of the rubber mount, there are just two bolts and
nuts and one person with a small pry bar or even an ice pick to square
the holes can do it. You can point the bolts either up or down.

When I did one, I didn't even remove that mount. I managed to use an
open end wrench to get the bolts out from under it. I think it was like
a one flat at a time turn. In retrospect, it would have been much
faster to loosen the mount and lift the engine.

Oh, you can use thread to lightly 'tie' the new gasket to the pan at the
corners for installation ease. If the thread bunches the gasket, just
cut it before tightening everything down.

Mike

mp@murklagoon.com wrote:
> On Wed, 09 Jan 2008 20:50:24 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
>> Yes. There are two plates, one on the engine side and one on the
>> 'cushion' or rubber mount that just lift apart. A spray with
>> penetrating oil can't hurt.
>>
> Then that leads to, I hope to my last question/confirmation.
>
> People have been all over the map with what must be removed; from
> everything including the support bar to everything; and the 82 Factory
> Jeep manual says to "Disconnect engine right support cushion bracket
> from block" (which is about the only bolts on the right mount I've not
> yet touched, rather not.). Which I assume means those bolts from the
> mount into the block??
>
> So exactly what bolts do I "really" need to remove? From the block
> itself, or as I think you are saying here just two bolts; one that is
> the bolt that is itself in the way causing the problems for dropping
> the pan and one bolt on the opposite side of the mount from the top
> down??
>> I have done it too many times because I kept tearing the engine mounts
>> to pieces when I was mud bogging and pit wall running with my tall
>> skinny 33X9.5's that just don't spin. I still break them on our twisty
>> trails, but not as often.
>>
> Nothing like experience, huh?? Bet it doesn't take you very long to
> do this any more???
>
>> I had to use a 2x4 plate on top of my jack grabber plate to reach with
>> my 33's and 3" lift.
>>
> Only slightly lifted, as you might remember .. and in a garage in
> Florida with a good floor jack. Though I'm tempted to put a wood
> block between the jack and transmission just to provide a little
> cushion.
>
> When I get this answer from you I plan to GoFerIt!!
>
> Even though we are located a long way from each other; tomorrow
> (Thursday) you will likely hear a shout of joy; or a scream of grief.
> No??
>
> Thanks ...... Mike
>
>
>> Mike
>>
>> mp@murklagoon.com wrote:
>>> On Wed, 09 Jan 2008 18:14:22 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Mike,
>>>
>>>> You are doing it correctly, you just have to keep on jacking.
>>>>
>>>> You have to unload the front springs before the engine will lift off the
>>>> mount, so that is up a ways and because it is a three point system, it
>>>> will drop back in place pretty well.
>>>>
>>> Unloading the front springs makes great sense; but would also seem to
>>> require a lot of force on the jack/transmission and
>>> transmission/engine connections.
>>> ]
>>> So if I keep jacking up on the transmission, with the engine still
>>> restrained with the fixed left mount but 'free' from the normally
>>> fixed right mount .. then the engine will actually 'rotate' up enough
>>> to give me room to work prior to any damage to anything??
>>>
>>> All I have to do is make certain the engine is not 'fixed' to the
>>> right mount.
>>>
>>> And this will not damage the transmission,engine or the still fixed
>>> left mount?
>>>
>>> I sure don't want to hurt the CJ, of course .. nor me?!
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>>> Mike
>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
>>>> Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
>>>>
>>>> mp@murklagoon.com wrote:
>>>>> On Wed, 2 Jan 2008 19:14:30 -0800 (PST), michael.white@charter.net
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> OK thanks for the update on the one piece gasket .. I got the one
>>>>> piece gasket (NAPA folks including their regional manager didn't even
>>>>> know they exist).
>>>>>
>>>>> Got under .. observed that I need to pull the starter; pulled, no big
>>>>> deal.
>>>>>
>>>>> Now the "engine mount"; Need just a little more clearance and I see
>>>>> it has to come off or at the very least come loose .. so I read the
>>>>> Factory manual and do some Internet searching -- lots of suggestions.
>>>>> One person even uses an engine lift.
>>>>>
>>>>> The Jeep manual seems to be the easiest way .. though I don't see how
>>>>> it could actually work without doing damage while the Left mount is
>>>>> remains attached. That "Official" Jeep CJ8 manual says:
>>>>> "(a) Place jack under transmission."
>>>>> "(b) Disconnect engine right support cushion bracket from block and
>>>>> raise engine to allow sufficient clearance for oil pan removal."
>>>>>
>>>>> "Remove oil plan."
>>>>>
>>>>> So I do all that and VERY TENTATIVELY place my good floor jack under
>>>>> the transmission; lift the jack until it has slight pressure on the
>>>>> tranny. Then I applied a little pressure, a little more, then just a
>>>>> little more. The jack definitely has taken a load; but absolutely no
>>>>> sign of movement at the right engine mount. (Should I jack up some
>>>>> more??)
>>>>>
>>>>> So I stop; leaving the jack under the transmission.
>>>>>
>>>>> I decide I must have to actually remove the mount .. so I remove the
>>>>> cross-brace and the mount to frame bolts (jack to tranny still holding
>>>>> pressure). Then I say .. whoa, think this through.
>>>>>
>>>>> I reread some of the Internet posts and see that at least a couple use
>>>>> a 2/4 board under the front crank pulley for safety. (I guess they
>>>>> put that there after the mount is removed?) Then I think about how
>>>>> much problem it 'might' be to realign the engine/ engine mount/frame.
>>>>> Didn't see a mention of doing anything with the left motor mount. One
>>>>> person mentioned putting the jack under the oil pan with a 2X4 piece
>>>>> of wood for a cushion .. don't see how that works because the jack
>>>>> would have to come off with the motor mount removed in order to remove
>>>>> the pan itself.
>>>>>
>>>>> This cannot be this difficult, can it??
>>>>>
>>>>> So now I return again to this group for expertise and to learn how to
>>>>> do it right without damaging the CJ (or myself).
>>>>>
>>>>> Please .. how do I do this correctly. Please, please .. do it for me
>>>>> like a ** How to R&R the right front motor mount on a CJ8 in order to
>>>>> R&R the oil Pan gasket".
>>>>>
>>>>> I have pressure on me to have this CJ running by Friday and crunch
>>>>> time is now here?!
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks ......
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Dec 31 2007, 11:20 am, m...@murklagoon.com wrote:
>>>>>>> A friend was trying to help me siphon some oil from my Scrambler to
>>>>>>> get an oil analysis done. (Analysis came back fine.)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> However, he used some plastic tubing to get the sample through the
>>>>>>> dipstick tube, got it caught somehow when pulling it out, and broke
>>>>>>> off an unknown quantity in the pan.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> So I assume I must drop the pan and remove whatever plastic tubing
>>>>>>> remains before starting the motor.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Question #1: Since I'm already in there should I replace the oil
>>>>>>> pump? As far as I know the existing (and original) pump is working
>>>>>>> fine; and the engine has only 55,000 original miles.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Question #1a: If you think I should replace the oil pump -- is there
>>>>>>> a recommended replacement pump/brand/part??
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Question #2: I have not dropped the pan yet. What gasket/gasket kit
>>>>>>> do you recommend I get? And what type sealer (if any) should I be
>>>>>>> using??
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I apologize for asking such basic questions but I haven't been doing
>>>>>>> much mechanicing for quite a while and don't know for sure how it
>>>>>>> should be done with today's parts. Advice on this forum has been very
>>>>>>> helpful numerous times .. so any suggestions will be most appreciated
>>>>>>> ......
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks ....
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>> Mike,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> For #2, Napa sells a one piece gasket that works pretty good. I put
>>>>>> one on when I changed engines. No sealer required, which means you
>>>>>> won't need to replace it if you need to drop the oil pan again.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Michael