1982 CJ-7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1982 CJ-7
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:d884mt$rrc$1@reader1.panix.com...
> Norman wrote:
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:42A4D63B.3EFC702B@***.net...
> >
> >> I wish you had tested while the driveshaft was out to leave the
> >>front ring and pinion out of the equation. Will the transfer make any
> >>noise while in transfer is in neutral, engine running transmission in
> >>gear?
> >> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>
> >>Norman wrote:
> >>
> >>>I now have 2 new U joints on the front drive shaft. When I engage 4L
> >>>without locking the hubs, I still hear the same awful clanking noise.
> >>>
> >>>Have I now narrowed the problem down to the transfer case, or should I
> >
> > check
> >
> >>>the mounts next?
> >>>
> >>>I appreciate the guidance.
> >>>
> >>>Norman
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------
> > No noise with the transfer in neutral and the transmission in gear with
the
> > engine running.
> >
> > Take the front shaft back out and try again?
>
> Did you check the transmission mount? there's a rubber pad that holds
> the tail of the transmission off the skid plate. 23 years of leaking
> motor oil and exhaust heat turns it into bubblegum. If the mount is bad
> it will let the front yoke hit the tranny tunnel -- when you step on the
> gas. Testing is simple: Put your legs under the jeep, put a foot on
> the rear yoke and shove. Harder. Now try the other side. If it moves,
> it failed.
>
---------------------------------
Hello Lee,
You were correct. It is the mount. Using a bar, I can move the transfer
case enough to make the yoke hit the tunnel.
Thanks,
Norman
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1982 CJ-7
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:d884mt$rrc$1@reader1.panix.com...
> Norman wrote:
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:42A4D63B.3EFC702B@***.net...
> >
> >> I wish you had tested while the driveshaft was out to leave the
> >>front ring and pinion out of the equation. Will the transfer make any
> >>noise while in transfer is in neutral, engine running transmission in
> >>gear?
> >> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>
> >>Norman wrote:
> >>
> >>>I now have 2 new U joints on the front drive shaft. When I engage 4L
> >>>without locking the hubs, I still hear the same awful clanking noise.
> >>>
> >>>Have I now narrowed the problem down to the transfer case, or should I
> >
> > check
> >
> >>>the mounts next?
> >>>
> >>>I appreciate the guidance.
> >>>
> >>>Norman
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------
> > No noise with the transfer in neutral and the transmission in gear with
the
> > engine running.
> >
> > Take the front shaft back out and try again?
>
> Did you check the transmission mount? there's a rubber pad that holds
> the tail of the transmission off the skid plate. 23 years of leaking
> motor oil and exhaust heat turns it into bubblegum. If the mount is bad
> it will let the front yoke hit the tranny tunnel -- when you step on the
> gas. Testing is simple: Put your legs under the jeep, put a foot on
> the rear yoke and shove. Harder. Now try the other side. If it moves,
> it failed.
>
---------------------------------
Hello Lee,
You were correct. It is the mount. Using a bar, I can move the transfer
case enough to make the yoke hit the tunnel.
Thanks,
Norman
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1982 CJ-7
"Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
news:d884mt$rrc$1@reader1.panix.com...
> Norman wrote:
> > "L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:42A4D63B.3EFC702B@***.net...
> >
> >> I wish you had tested while the driveshaft was out to leave the
> >>front ring and pinion out of the equation. Will the transfer make any
> >>noise while in transfer is in neutral, engine running transmission in
> >>gear?
> >> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>
> >>Norman wrote:
> >>
> >>>I now have 2 new U joints on the front drive shaft. When I engage 4L
> >>>without locking the hubs, I still hear the same awful clanking noise.
> >>>
> >>>Have I now narrowed the problem down to the transfer case, or should I
> >
> > check
> >
> >>>the mounts next?
> >>>
> >>>I appreciate the guidance.
> >>>
> >>>Norman
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------
> > No noise with the transfer in neutral and the transmission in gear with
the
> > engine running.
> >
> > Take the front shaft back out and try again?
>
> Did you check the transmission mount? there's a rubber pad that holds
> the tail of the transmission off the skid plate. 23 years of leaking
> motor oil and exhaust heat turns it into bubblegum. If the mount is bad
> it will let the front yoke hit the tranny tunnel -- when you step on the
> gas. Testing is simple: Put your legs under the jeep, put a foot on
> the rear yoke and shove. Harder. Now try the other side. If it moves,
> it failed.
>
---------------------------------
Hello Lee,
You were correct. It is the mount. Using a bar, I can move the transfer
case enough to make the yoke hit the tunnel.
Thanks,
Norman
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1982 CJ-7
"Robb S via CarKB.com" <forum@CarKB.com> wrote in message
news:a4cab40a2f474fe9a8d431d2e90e4404@CarKB.com...
>
> hey Norm, you said you drove or moved to washington state, what city do
you
> live in? I'm in North Bend, wa
> Norman wrote:
> >"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> >news:429A468E.68525C2E@***.net...
> >> Hi Norman,
> >> If you can't find an obvious loose universal joint, then I'd find
a
> >[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
> >> > Thanks in advance,
> >> > Norman
> >---------------------------------
> >Hello Bill,
> >
> >There's nothing loose, so I'll get her to a garage and on a rack this
week.
> >Thank you very much.
> >
> >Sincerely,
> >Norman
> >
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.com
> http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200506/1
-------------------------------------
I'm in Spokane. I'll have to look up North Bend.
New here,
Norman
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1982 CJ-7
"Robb S via CarKB.com" <forum@CarKB.com> wrote in message
news:a4cab40a2f474fe9a8d431d2e90e4404@CarKB.com...
>
> hey Norm, you said you drove or moved to washington state, what city do
you
> live in? I'm in North Bend, wa
> Norman wrote:
> >"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> >news:429A468E.68525C2E@***.net...
> >> Hi Norman,
> >> If you can't find an obvious loose universal joint, then I'd find
a
> >[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
> >> > Thanks in advance,
> >> > Norman
> >---------------------------------
> >Hello Bill,
> >
> >There's nothing loose, so I'll get her to a garage and on a rack this
week.
> >Thank you very much.
> >
> >Sincerely,
> >Norman
> >
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.com
> http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200506/1
-------------------------------------
I'm in Spokane. I'll have to look up North Bend.
New here,
Norman
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1982 CJ-7
"Robb S via CarKB.com" <forum@CarKB.com> wrote in message
news:a4cab40a2f474fe9a8d431d2e90e4404@CarKB.com...
>
> hey Norm, you said you drove or moved to washington state, what city do
you
> live in? I'm in North Bend, wa
> Norman wrote:
> >"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> >news:429A468E.68525C2E@***.net...
> >> Hi Norman,
> >> If you can't find an obvious loose universal joint, then I'd find
a
> >[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
> >> > Thanks in advance,
> >> > Norman
> >---------------------------------
> >Hello Bill,
> >
> >There's nothing loose, so I'll get her to a garage and on a rack this
week.
> >Thank you very much.
> >
> >Sincerely,
> >Norman
> >
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.com
> http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200506/1
-------------------------------------
I'm in Spokane. I'll have to look up North Bend.
New here,
Norman
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1982 CJ-7
"Robb S via CarKB.com" <forum@CarKB.com> wrote in message
news:a4cab40a2f474fe9a8d431d2e90e4404@CarKB.com...
>
> hey Norm, you said you drove or moved to washington state, what city do
you
> live in? I'm in North Bend, wa
> Norman wrote:
> >"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> >news:429A468E.68525C2E@***.net...
> >> Hi Norman,
> >> If you can't find an obvious loose universal joint, then I'd find
a
> >[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
> >> > Thanks in advance,
> >> > Norman
> >---------------------------------
> >Hello Bill,
> >
> >There's nothing loose, so I'll get her to a garage and on a rack this
week.
> >Thank you very much.
> >
> >Sincerely,
> >Norman
> >
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.com
> http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200506/1
-------------------------------------
I'm in Spokane. I'll have to look up North Bend.
New here,
Norman
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1982 CJ-7
Norman wrote:
> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
[snip]
>>Did you check the transmission mount? there's a rubber pad that holds
>>the tail of the transmission off the skid plate. 23 years of leaking
>>motor oil and exhaust heat turns it into bubblegum. If the mount is bad
>>it will let the front yoke hit the tranny tunnel -- when you step on the
>>gas. Testing is simple: Put your legs under the jeep, put a foot on
>>the rear yoke and shove. Harder. Now try the other side. If it moves,
>>it failed.
[snip]
>
> You were correct. It is the mount. Using a bar, I can move the transfer
> case enough to make the yoke hit the tunnel.
You're probably going to be scratching your head once you get under
there to pull it apart. It is easy enough to reach the mount with a
wrench but you can't really see it without pulling the skid plate, and
you probably don't want to be doing /that/ because the plate is held to
the frame with 6 heavily rusted bolts that go into threaded pieces that
_were_ captured inside the frame when it left the factory, but aren't
anymore. Put a wrench on those bolts now and you'll be spinning them
until the cows come home. The frame is boxed, so you won't be able to
reach the back side. You'll end up fixing 6 things trying to fix one.
Oh, and your catalytic converter -- if still in place -- is precisely
where it will hamper you the most. Enjoy!
I'm working from hazy memory here, so if I lead Norman astray someone
please speak up. The last time I did this the body was off and the
tranny was going in with the engine, so it was _much_ easier to see what
I was doing.
If you ask Bill I'm sure he's got a link to an exploded diagram but I
couldn't find one easily for you.
The tranny mount consists of a torque plate, a rubber block-shaped mount
and a torque snubber assembly, plus assorted bolts, nuts and washers.
The torque plate is a shallow "U" channel about 6" long. It bolts from
below to the bottom of the tranny and extends left (driver's left) about
3". It will be caked under a 1/2" layer of weeped oil, mud, brake dust
and road grime. The rubber mount bolts to the torque plate from above
and to the skid plate from below. There are spare holes in just about
everything here, so note which ones were used when you disassemble it.
After you pull the remains of the old mount out (it will come out in two
pieces because it failed) but before you install the new one, you'll
need to start on the torque snubber. It consists of a threaded rod
installed from above and nutted to a dimple in the skid plate, with a
cone-shaped rubber disk above the skid plate pointing upward (driver's
upward). The rod passes through what looks like a too-large hole in the
torque plate. This keeps the torque plate from traveling too far
downward. Above the torque plate will be another cone-shaped rubber
disk, capped with a large fender washer and a nut or two (or, perhaps, a
Nylock nut) and prevents the plate from traveling too far upward.
_Don't_ try to snug this assembly down, leave it some slack. It is
designed as a travel limiter, not to prevent travel. A couple of sturdy
flat washers where the rod passes through the skid plate will be a good
idea, since the hole is probably worn and oval. If your mount fell
apart you shouldn't be surprised if there's nothing left to your torque
snubber but the plate and the rod.
The mount itself will be a rectangular rubber block with threaded
inserts. After you loosely assemble the torque snubber bolt the mount
to the torque plate at the tranny, then bolt it to the skid plate from
below. If you try to do it the other way you'll spend all day trying to
line up holes that you can't see, this way you can see what you are
doing. If you bolt down the mount before doing the snubber you won't be
able to get all the parts in place. If you snug down the snubber before
doing the mount you won't be able to get the parts in place.
Izzint working on Jeeps fun?
A thought: Consider resisting the urge to get hard Urethane mounts.
Some well-respected posters here have said over the years that they get
a lot more driveline vibration with Urethane in place of standard rubber
mounts. It makes sense to me, but I had already bought mine when I
found this out and to tell the truth I can't tell more vibration in an
old Jeep from slightly less anyway.
As always, work safely. Know that as much as it likes you, your Jeep
_will_ bite you if you turn your back on it or put your fingers under
heavy parts. Wheel chocks, et cetera, and eyeball the motor mounts
before you release anything on the tranny.
Enjoy!
> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
[snip]
>>Did you check the transmission mount? there's a rubber pad that holds
>>the tail of the transmission off the skid plate. 23 years of leaking
>>motor oil and exhaust heat turns it into bubblegum. If the mount is bad
>>it will let the front yoke hit the tranny tunnel -- when you step on the
>>gas. Testing is simple: Put your legs under the jeep, put a foot on
>>the rear yoke and shove. Harder. Now try the other side. If it moves,
>>it failed.
[snip]
>
> You were correct. It is the mount. Using a bar, I can move the transfer
> case enough to make the yoke hit the tunnel.
You're probably going to be scratching your head once you get under
there to pull it apart. It is easy enough to reach the mount with a
wrench but you can't really see it without pulling the skid plate, and
you probably don't want to be doing /that/ because the plate is held to
the frame with 6 heavily rusted bolts that go into threaded pieces that
_were_ captured inside the frame when it left the factory, but aren't
anymore. Put a wrench on those bolts now and you'll be spinning them
until the cows come home. The frame is boxed, so you won't be able to
reach the back side. You'll end up fixing 6 things trying to fix one.
Oh, and your catalytic converter -- if still in place -- is precisely
where it will hamper you the most. Enjoy!
I'm working from hazy memory here, so if I lead Norman astray someone
please speak up. The last time I did this the body was off and the
tranny was going in with the engine, so it was _much_ easier to see what
I was doing.
If you ask Bill I'm sure he's got a link to an exploded diagram but I
couldn't find one easily for you.
The tranny mount consists of a torque plate, a rubber block-shaped mount
and a torque snubber assembly, plus assorted bolts, nuts and washers.
The torque plate is a shallow "U" channel about 6" long. It bolts from
below to the bottom of the tranny and extends left (driver's left) about
3". It will be caked under a 1/2" layer of weeped oil, mud, brake dust
and road grime. The rubber mount bolts to the torque plate from above
and to the skid plate from below. There are spare holes in just about
everything here, so note which ones were used when you disassemble it.
After you pull the remains of the old mount out (it will come out in two
pieces because it failed) but before you install the new one, you'll
need to start on the torque snubber. It consists of a threaded rod
installed from above and nutted to a dimple in the skid plate, with a
cone-shaped rubber disk above the skid plate pointing upward (driver's
upward). The rod passes through what looks like a too-large hole in the
torque plate. This keeps the torque plate from traveling too far
downward. Above the torque plate will be another cone-shaped rubber
disk, capped with a large fender washer and a nut or two (or, perhaps, a
Nylock nut) and prevents the plate from traveling too far upward.
_Don't_ try to snug this assembly down, leave it some slack. It is
designed as a travel limiter, not to prevent travel. A couple of sturdy
flat washers where the rod passes through the skid plate will be a good
idea, since the hole is probably worn and oval. If your mount fell
apart you shouldn't be surprised if there's nothing left to your torque
snubber but the plate and the rod.
The mount itself will be a rectangular rubber block with threaded
inserts. After you loosely assemble the torque snubber bolt the mount
to the torque plate at the tranny, then bolt it to the skid plate from
below. If you try to do it the other way you'll spend all day trying to
line up holes that you can't see, this way you can see what you are
doing. If you bolt down the mount before doing the snubber you won't be
able to get all the parts in place. If you snug down the snubber before
doing the mount you won't be able to get the parts in place.
Izzint working on Jeeps fun?
A thought: Consider resisting the urge to get hard Urethane mounts.
Some well-respected posters here have said over the years that they get
a lot more driveline vibration with Urethane in place of standard rubber
mounts. It makes sense to me, but I had already bought mine when I
found this out and to tell the truth I can't tell more vibration in an
old Jeep from slightly less anyway.
As always, work safely. Know that as much as it likes you, your Jeep
_will_ bite you if you turn your back on it or put your fingers under
heavy parts. Wheel chocks, et cetera, and eyeball the motor mounts
before you release anything on the tranny.
Enjoy!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1982 CJ-7
Norman wrote:
> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
[snip]
>>Did you check the transmission mount? there's a rubber pad that holds
>>the tail of the transmission off the skid plate. 23 years of leaking
>>motor oil and exhaust heat turns it into bubblegum. If the mount is bad
>>it will let the front yoke hit the tranny tunnel -- when you step on the
>>gas. Testing is simple: Put your legs under the jeep, put a foot on
>>the rear yoke and shove. Harder. Now try the other side. If it moves,
>>it failed.
[snip]
>
> You were correct. It is the mount. Using a bar, I can move the transfer
> case enough to make the yoke hit the tunnel.
You're probably going to be scratching your head once you get under
there to pull it apart. It is easy enough to reach the mount with a
wrench but you can't really see it without pulling the skid plate, and
you probably don't want to be doing /that/ because the plate is held to
the frame with 6 heavily rusted bolts that go into threaded pieces that
_were_ captured inside the frame when it left the factory, but aren't
anymore. Put a wrench on those bolts now and you'll be spinning them
until the cows come home. The frame is boxed, so you won't be able to
reach the back side. You'll end up fixing 6 things trying to fix one.
Oh, and your catalytic converter -- if still in place -- is precisely
where it will hamper you the most. Enjoy!
I'm working from hazy memory here, so if I lead Norman astray someone
please speak up. The last time I did this the body was off and the
tranny was going in with the engine, so it was _much_ easier to see what
I was doing.
If you ask Bill I'm sure he's got a link to an exploded diagram but I
couldn't find one easily for you.
The tranny mount consists of a torque plate, a rubber block-shaped mount
and a torque snubber assembly, plus assorted bolts, nuts and washers.
The torque plate is a shallow "U" channel about 6" long. It bolts from
below to the bottom of the tranny and extends left (driver's left) about
3". It will be caked under a 1/2" layer of weeped oil, mud, brake dust
and road grime. The rubber mount bolts to the torque plate from above
and to the skid plate from below. There are spare holes in just about
everything here, so note which ones were used when you disassemble it.
After you pull the remains of the old mount out (it will come out in two
pieces because it failed) but before you install the new one, you'll
need to start on the torque snubber. It consists of a threaded rod
installed from above and nutted to a dimple in the skid plate, with a
cone-shaped rubber disk above the skid plate pointing upward (driver's
upward). The rod passes through what looks like a too-large hole in the
torque plate. This keeps the torque plate from traveling too far
downward. Above the torque plate will be another cone-shaped rubber
disk, capped with a large fender washer and a nut or two (or, perhaps, a
Nylock nut) and prevents the plate from traveling too far upward.
_Don't_ try to snug this assembly down, leave it some slack. It is
designed as a travel limiter, not to prevent travel. A couple of sturdy
flat washers where the rod passes through the skid plate will be a good
idea, since the hole is probably worn and oval. If your mount fell
apart you shouldn't be surprised if there's nothing left to your torque
snubber but the plate and the rod.
The mount itself will be a rectangular rubber block with threaded
inserts. After you loosely assemble the torque snubber bolt the mount
to the torque plate at the tranny, then bolt it to the skid plate from
below. If you try to do it the other way you'll spend all day trying to
line up holes that you can't see, this way you can see what you are
doing. If you bolt down the mount before doing the snubber you won't be
able to get all the parts in place. If you snug down the snubber before
doing the mount you won't be able to get the parts in place.
Izzint working on Jeeps fun?
A thought: Consider resisting the urge to get hard Urethane mounts.
Some well-respected posters here have said over the years that they get
a lot more driveline vibration with Urethane in place of standard rubber
mounts. It makes sense to me, but I had already bought mine when I
found this out and to tell the truth I can't tell more vibration in an
old Jeep from slightly less anyway.
As always, work safely. Know that as much as it likes you, your Jeep
_will_ bite you if you turn your back on it or put your fingers under
heavy parts. Wheel chocks, et cetera, and eyeball the motor mounts
before you release anything on the tranny.
Enjoy!
> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
[snip]
>>Did you check the transmission mount? there's a rubber pad that holds
>>the tail of the transmission off the skid plate. 23 years of leaking
>>motor oil and exhaust heat turns it into bubblegum. If the mount is bad
>>it will let the front yoke hit the tranny tunnel -- when you step on the
>>gas. Testing is simple: Put your legs under the jeep, put a foot on
>>the rear yoke and shove. Harder. Now try the other side. If it moves,
>>it failed.
[snip]
>
> You were correct. It is the mount. Using a bar, I can move the transfer
> case enough to make the yoke hit the tunnel.
You're probably going to be scratching your head once you get under
there to pull it apart. It is easy enough to reach the mount with a
wrench but you can't really see it without pulling the skid plate, and
you probably don't want to be doing /that/ because the plate is held to
the frame with 6 heavily rusted bolts that go into threaded pieces that
_were_ captured inside the frame when it left the factory, but aren't
anymore. Put a wrench on those bolts now and you'll be spinning them
until the cows come home. The frame is boxed, so you won't be able to
reach the back side. You'll end up fixing 6 things trying to fix one.
Oh, and your catalytic converter -- if still in place -- is precisely
where it will hamper you the most. Enjoy!
I'm working from hazy memory here, so if I lead Norman astray someone
please speak up. The last time I did this the body was off and the
tranny was going in with the engine, so it was _much_ easier to see what
I was doing.
If you ask Bill I'm sure he's got a link to an exploded diagram but I
couldn't find one easily for you.
The tranny mount consists of a torque plate, a rubber block-shaped mount
and a torque snubber assembly, plus assorted bolts, nuts and washers.
The torque plate is a shallow "U" channel about 6" long. It bolts from
below to the bottom of the tranny and extends left (driver's left) about
3". It will be caked under a 1/2" layer of weeped oil, mud, brake dust
and road grime. The rubber mount bolts to the torque plate from above
and to the skid plate from below. There are spare holes in just about
everything here, so note which ones were used when you disassemble it.
After you pull the remains of the old mount out (it will come out in two
pieces because it failed) but before you install the new one, you'll
need to start on the torque snubber. It consists of a threaded rod
installed from above and nutted to a dimple in the skid plate, with a
cone-shaped rubber disk above the skid plate pointing upward (driver's
upward). The rod passes through what looks like a too-large hole in the
torque plate. This keeps the torque plate from traveling too far
downward. Above the torque plate will be another cone-shaped rubber
disk, capped with a large fender washer and a nut or two (or, perhaps, a
Nylock nut) and prevents the plate from traveling too far upward.
_Don't_ try to snug this assembly down, leave it some slack. It is
designed as a travel limiter, not to prevent travel. A couple of sturdy
flat washers where the rod passes through the skid plate will be a good
idea, since the hole is probably worn and oval. If your mount fell
apart you shouldn't be surprised if there's nothing left to your torque
snubber but the plate and the rod.
The mount itself will be a rectangular rubber block with threaded
inserts. After you loosely assemble the torque snubber bolt the mount
to the torque plate at the tranny, then bolt it to the skid plate from
below. If you try to do it the other way you'll spend all day trying to
line up holes that you can't see, this way you can see what you are
doing. If you bolt down the mount before doing the snubber you won't be
able to get all the parts in place. If you snug down the snubber before
doing the mount you won't be able to get the parts in place.
Izzint working on Jeeps fun?
A thought: Consider resisting the urge to get hard Urethane mounts.
Some well-respected posters here have said over the years that they get
a lot more driveline vibration with Urethane in place of standard rubber
mounts. It makes sense to me, but I had already bought mine when I
found this out and to tell the truth I can't tell more vibration in an
old Jeep from slightly less anyway.
As always, work safely. Know that as much as it likes you, your Jeep
_will_ bite you if you turn your back on it or put your fingers under
heavy parts. Wheel chocks, et cetera, and eyeball the motor mounts
before you release anything on the tranny.
Enjoy!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1982 CJ-7
Norman wrote:
> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
[snip]
>>Did you check the transmission mount? there's a rubber pad that holds
>>the tail of the transmission off the skid plate. 23 years of leaking
>>motor oil and exhaust heat turns it into bubblegum. If the mount is bad
>>it will let the front yoke hit the tranny tunnel -- when you step on the
>>gas. Testing is simple: Put your legs under the jeep, put a foot on
>>the rear yoke and shove. Harder. Now try the other side. If it moves,
>>it failed.
[snip]
>
> You were correct. It is the mount. Using a bar, I can move the transfer
> case enough to make the yoke hit the tunnel.
You're probably going to be scratching your head once you get under
there to pull it apart. It is easy enough to reach the mount with a
wrench but you can't really see it without pulling the skid plate, and
you probably don't want to be doing /that/ because the plate is held to
the frame with 6 heavily rusted bolts that go into threaded pieces that
_were_ captured inside the frame when it left the factory, but aren't
anymore. Put a wrench on those bolts now and you'll be spinning them
until the cows come home. The frame is boxed, so you won't be able to
reach the back side. You'll end up fixing 6 things trying to fix one.
Oh, and your catalytic converter -- if still in place -- is precisely
where it will hamper you the most. Enjoy!
I'm working from hazy memory here, so if I lead Norman astray someone
please speak up. The last time I did this the body was off and the
tranny was going in with the engine, so it was _much_ easier to see what
I was doing.
If you ask Bill I'm sure he's got a link to an exploded diagram but I
couldn't find one easily for you.
The tranny mount consists of a torque plate, a rubber block-shaped mount
and a torque snubber assembly, plus assorted bolts, nuts and washers.
The torque plate is a shallow "U" channel about 6" long. It bolts from
below to the bottom of the tranny and extends left (driver's left) about
3". It will be caked under a 1/2" layer of weeped oil, mud, brake dust
and road grime. The rubber mount bolts to the torque plate from above
and to the skid plate from below. There are spare holes in just about
everything here, so note which ones were used when you disassemble it.
After you pull the remains of the old mount out (it will come out in two
pieces because it failed) but before you install the new one, you'll
need to start on the torque snubber. It consists of a threaded rod
installed from above and nutted to a dimple in the skid plate, with a
cone-shaped rubber disk above the skid plate pointing upward (driver's
upward). The rod passes through what looks like a too-large hole in the
torque plate. This keeps the torque plate from traveling too far
downward. Above the torque plate will be another cone-shaped rubber
disk, capped with a large fender washer and a nut or two (or, perhaps, a
Nylock nut) and prevents the plate from traveling too far upward.
_Don't_ try to snug this assembly down, leave it some slack. It is
designed as a travel limiter, not to prevent travel. A couple of sturdy
flat washers where the rod passes through the skid plate will be a good
idea, since the hole is probably worn and oval. If your mount fell
apart you shouldn't be surprised if there's nothing left to your torque
snubber but the plate and the rod.
The mount itself will be a rectangular rubber block with threaded
inserts. After you loosely assemble the torque snubber bolt the mount
to the torque plate at the tranny, then bolt it to the skid plate from
below. If you try to do it the other way you'll spend all day trying to
line up holes that you can't see, this way you can see what you are
doing. If you bolt down the mount before doing the snubber you won't be
able to get all the parts in place. If you snug down the snubber before
doing the mount you won't be able to get the parts in place.
Izzint working on Jeeps fun?
A thought: Consider resisting the urge to get hard Urethane mounts.
Some well-respected posters here have said over the years that they get
a lot more driveline vibration with Urethane in place of standard rubber
mounts. It makes sense to me, but I had already bought mine when I
found this out and to tell the truth I can't tell more vibration in an
old Jeep from slightly less anyway.
As always, work safely. Know that as much as it likes you, your Jeep
_will_ bite you if you turn your back on it or put your fingers under
heavy parts. Wheel chocks, et cetera, and eyeball the motor mounts
before you release anything on the tranny.
Enjoy!
> "Lee Ayrton" <layrton@panix.com> wrote in message
[snip]
>>Did you check the transmission mount? there's a rubber pad that holds
>>the tail of the transmission off the skid plate. 23 years of leaking
>>motor oil and exhaust heat turns it into bubblegum. If the mount is bad
>>it will let the front yoke hit the tranny tunnel -- when you step on the
>>gas. Testing is simple: Put your legs under the jeep, put a foot on
>>the rear yoke and shove. Harder. Now try the other side. If it moves,
>>it failed.
[snip]
>
> You were correct. It is the mount. Using a bar, I can move the transfer
> case enough to make the yoke hit the tunnel.
You're probably going to be scratching your head once you get under
there to pull it apart. It is easy enough to reach the mount with a
wrench but you can't really see it without pulling the skid plate, and
you probably don't want to be doing /that/ because the plate is held to
the frame with 6 heavily rusted bolts that go into threaded pieces that
_were_ captured inside the frame when it left the factory, but aren't
anymore. Put a wrench on those bolts now and you'll be spinning them
until the cows come home. The frame is boxed, so you won't be able to
reach the back side. You'll end up fixing 6 things trying to fix one.
Oh, and your catalytic converter -- if still in place -- is precisely
where it will hamper you the most. Enjoy!
I'm working from hazy memory here, so if I lead Norman astray someone
please speak up. The last time I did this the body was off and the
tranny was going in with the engine, so it was _much_ easier to see what
I was doing.
If you ask Bill I'm sure he's got a link to an exploded diagram but I
couldn't find one easily for you.
The tranny mount consists of a torque plate, a rubber block-shaped mount
and a torque snubber assembly, plus assorted bolts, nuts and washers.
The torque plate is a shallow "U" channel about 6" long. It bolts from
below to the bottom of the tranny and extends left (driver's left) about
3". It will be caked under a 1/2" layer of weeped oil, mud, brake dust
and road grime. The rubber mount bolts to the torque plate from above
and to the skid plate from below. There are spare holes in just about
everything here, so note which ones were used when you disassemble it.
After you pull the remains of the old mount out (it will come out in two
pieces because it failed) but before you install the new one, you'll
need to start on the torque snubber. It consists of a threaded rod
installed from above and nutted to a dimple in the skid plate, with a
cone-shaped rubber disk above the skid plate pointing upward (driver's
upward). The rod passes through what looks like a too-large hole in the
torque plate. This keeps the torque plate from traveling too far
downward. Above the torque plate will be another cone-shaped rubber
disk, capped with a large fender washer and a nut or two (or, perhaps, a
Nylock nut) and prevents the plate from traveling too far upward.
_Don't_ try to snug this assembly down, leave it some slack. It is
designed as a travel limiter, not to prevent travel. A couple of sturdy
flat washers where the rod passes through the skid plate will be a good
idea, since the hole is probably worn and oval. If your mount fell
apart you shouldn't be surprised if there's nothing left to your torque
snubber but the plate and the rod.
The mount itself will be a rectangular rubber block with threaded
inserts. After you loosely assemble the torque snubber bolt the mount
to the torque plate at the tranny, then bolt it to the skid plate from
below. If you try to do it the other way you'll spend all day trying to
line up holes that you can't see, this way you can see what you are
doing. If you bolt down the mount before doing the snubber you won't be
able to get all the parts in place. If you snug down the snubber before
doing the mount you won't be able to get the parts in place.
Izzint working on Jeeps fun?
A thought: Consider resisting the urge to get hard Urethane mounts.
Some well-respected posters here have said over the years that they get
a lot more driveline vibration with Urethane in place of standard rubber
mounts. It makes sense to me, but I had already bought mine when I
found this out and to tell the truth I can't tell more vibration in an
old Jeep from slightly less anyway.
As always, work safely. Know that as much as it likes you, your Jeep
_will_ bite you if you turn your back on it or put your fingers under
heavy parts. Wheel chocks, et cetera, and eyeball the motor mounts
before you release anything on the tranny.
Enjoy!
