Re: #&^#%$ Flywheel Removal
 

> it doesn't bounce. Need to redo my lead mallet. Basically I took
> a steel hammer handle and poured a lead head around it. Apart from
> making the sand mold it's not that hard. For the casting I just
> use my small sledge as the form.

I just used a hole saw in some 2x4s and plugged the gaps with wet paper
towels.. They catch fire, but the lead hardens fast enough to where it
doesn't run out. J&L industrial sells lead mallets for under $20, but
shipping is by weight.

Re: #&^#%$ Flywheel Removal
 

> it doesn't bounce. Need to redo my lead mallet. Basically I took
> a steel hammer handle and poured a lead head around it. Apart from
> making the sand mold it's not that hard. For the casting I just
> use my small sledge as the form.

I just used a hole saw in some 2x4s and plugged the gaps with wet paper
towels.. They catch fire, but the lead hardens fast enough to where it
doesn't run out. J&L industrial sells lead mallets for under $20, but
shipping is by weight.

Re: #&^#%$ Flywheel Removal
 

> it doesn't bounce. Need to redo my lead mallet. Basically I took
> a steel hammer handle and poured a lead head around it. Apart from
> making the sand mold it's not that hard. For the casting I just
> use my small sledge as the form.

I just used a hole saw in some 2x4s and plugged the gaps with wet paper
towels.. They catch fire, but the lead hardens fast enough to where it
doesn't run out. J&L industrial sells lead mallets for under $20, but
shipping is by weight.

Re: #&^#%$ Flywheel Removal
 

Stupendous Man wrote:
>> it doesn't bounce. Need to redo my lead mallet. Basically I took
>> a steel hammer handle and poured a lead head around it. Apart from
>> making the sand mold it's not that hard. For the casting I just
>> use my small sledge as the form.
>
> I just used a hole saw in some 2x4s and plugged the gaps with wet
> paper towels.. They catch fire, but the lead hardens fast enough to
> where it doesn't run out. J&L industrial sells lead mallets for under
> $20, but shipping is by weight.

That's an idea. Bet I could make a mold using 2x4s. Could even hinge it
with a door hinge and use another hinge to close the mold. Once the wood
chars it should be good for a long time.

--
DougW

Re: #&^#%$ Flywheel Removal
 

Stupendous Man wrote:
>> it doesn't bounce. Need to redo my lead mallet. Basically I took
>> a steel hammer handle and poured a lead head around it. Apart from
>> making the sand mold it's not that hard. For the casting I just
>> use my small sledge as the form.
>
> I just used a hole saw in some 2x4s and plugged the gaps with wet
> paper towels.. They catch fire, but the lead hardens fast enough to
> where it doesn't run out. J&L industrial sells lead mallets for under
> $20, but shipping is by weight.

That's an idea. Bet I could make a mold using 2x4s. Could even hinge it
with a door hinge and use another hinge to close the mold. Once the wood
chars it should be good for a long time.

--
DougW

Re: #&^#%$ Flywheel Removal
 

Stupendous Man wrote:
>> it doesn't bounce. Need to redo my lead mallet. Basically I took
>> a steel hammer handle and poured a lead head around it. Apart from
>> making the sand mold it's not that hard. For the casting I just
>> use my small sledge as the form.
>
> I just used a hole saw in some 2x4s and plugged the gaps with wet
> paper towels.. They catch fire, but the lead hardens fast enough to
> where it doesn't run out. J&L industrial sells lead mallets for under
> $20, but shipping is by weight.

That's an idea. Bet I could make a mold using 2x4s. Could even hinge it
with a door hinge and use another hinge to close the mold. Once the wood
chars it should be good for a long time.

--
DougW

Re: #&^#%$ Flywheel Removal
 

Stupendous Man wrote:
>> it doesn't bounce. Need to redo my lead mallet. Basically I took
>> a steel hammer handle and poured a lead head around it. Apart from
>> making the sand mold it's not that hard. For the casting I just
>> use my small sledge as the form.
>
> I just used a hole saw in some 2x4s and plugged the gaps with wet
> paper towels.. They catch fire, but the lead hardens fast enough to
> where it doesn't run out. J&L industrial sells lead mallets for under
> $20, but shipping is by weight.

That's an idea. Bet I could make a mold using 2x4s. Could even hinge it
with a door hinge and use another hinge to close the mold. Once the wood
chars it should be good for a long time.

--
DougW

Re: #&^#%$ Flywheel Removal
 

On Fri, 12 Jan 2007 16:51:40 -0600, DougW wrote:

> Stupendous Man wrote:
>>> it doesn't bounce. Need to redo my lead mallet. Basically I took
>>> a steel hammer handle and poured a lead head around it. Apart from
>>> making the sand mold it's not that hard. For the casting I just
>>> use my small sledge as the form.
>>
>> I just used a hole saw in some 2x4s and plugged the gaps with wet
>> paper towels.. They catch fire, but the lead hardens fast enough to
>> where it doesn't run out. J&L industrial sells lead mallets for under
>> $20, but shipping is by weight.
>
> That's an idea. Bet I could make a mold using 2x4s. Could even hinge it
> with a door hinge and use another hinge to close the mold. Once the wood
> chars it should be good for a long time.
>

It's overkill for making hammers, but plaster of paris makes an excellent
mold material for lead. You can even use plastic wrap as a separator and
make split molds with it. Just be sure to bake it in the oven for an hour
or so to get it good and dry before using it - lead splatters can make
uncomfortable spots on your hands, arms, whatever is exposed if the
plaster is wet when you pour..

--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>

Re: #&^#%$ Flywheel Removal
 

On Fri, 12 Jan 2007 16:51:40 -0600, DougW wrote:

> Stupendous Man wrote:
>>> it doesn't bounce. Need to redo my lead mallet. Basically I took
>>> a steel hammer handle and poured a lead head around it. Apart from
>>> making the sand mold it's not that hard. For the casting I just
>>> use my small sledge as the form.
>>
>> I just used a hole saw in some 2x4s and plugged the gaps with wet
>> paper towels.. They catch fire, but the lead hardens fast enough to
>> where it doesn't run out. J&L industrial sells lead mallets for under
>> $20, but shipping is by weight.
>
> That's an idea. Bet I could make a mold using 2x4s. Could even hinge it
> with a door hinge and use another hinge to close the mold. Once the wood
> chars it should be good for a long time.
>

It's overkill for making hammers, but plaster of paris makes an excellent
mold material for lead. You can even use plastic wrap as a separator and
make split molds with it. Just be sure to bake it in the oven for an hour
or so to get it good and dry before using it - lead splatters can make
uncomfortable spots on your hands, arms, whatever is exposed if the
plaster is wet when you pour..

--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>

Re: #&^#%$ Flywheel Removal
 

On Fri, 12 Jan 2007 16:51:40 -0600, DougW wrote:

> Stupendous Man wrote:
>>> it doesn't bounce. Need to redo my lead mallet. Basically I took
>>> a steel hammer handle and poured a lead head around it. Apart from
>>> making the sand mold it's not that hard. For the casting I just
>>> use my small sledge as the form.
>>
>> I just used a hole saw in some 2x4s and plugged the gaps with wet
>> paper towels.. They catch fire, but the lead hardens fast enough to
>> where it doesn't run out. J&L industrial sells lead mallets for under
>> $20, but shipping is by weight.
>
> That's an idea. Bet I could make a mold using 2x4s. Could even hinge it
> with a door hinge and use another hinge to close the mold. Once the wood
> chars it should be good for a long time.
>

It's overkill for making hammers, but plaster of paris makes an excellent
mold material for lead. You can even use plastic wrap as a separator and
make split molds with it. Just be sure to bake it in the oven for an hour
or so to get it good and dry before using it - lead splatters can make
uncomfortable spots on your hands, arms, whatever is exposed if the
plaster is wet when you pour..

--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>