AutoJunkieMan

So I have a question, kind of a weird one but one i ran into today. (a rep input would be nice also)

I went in for an oil change today, I don't put alot of KMs on my rig but I run it 40 minutes a day round trip to work. Aprox 23kms a day or so all city driving. Get on the highway once a month run out to ajax and keep everything running nice, I know it needs to get a run down the highway once in a while. When I came in the guy there said he suggested that I get my break sliders lubed when my one year came up, I said my one year was last march (sitting at less then 17,000kms right now) so he said you should get it done make sure your breaks to prematurely wear down or something or other. He was kind of being evasive with the question, said something along the lines of newer vehicles can't be grinded down or something. It's not I wasn't listening it's just he was looking down and not explaining very well, also I was tired (just finished a night shift).

So I asked how much for this "lube job" he said we have a special $180 plus parts, after this month $220 plus parts. My response was.. uhh no. If it's not major repair I can wait and save up the money before getting something like this done, but it all kind of struck me as weird all the same. I told him I drive standard, and even in the city I hardly ever use my breaks at all. They still feel brand new to me, so I thought maybe this is something I could maybe learn and do myself. I am not super mechanical but I am a good study, I also rotate my tires myself so really it can't be that big of a deal.

My question is, are they trying to scam me? Can I do this myself? From what little I could google on the subject it's just a labour intensive job and your paying for there time mostly, if that is the case if it doesn't take long when I do my rotation again in a few weeks I could maybe give it shot? I know I'll be putting on my own rock sliders, just need to pick up a tube of loctight.

My major skills are in electrical, wiring and PC hardware. Mechanics is new, and interesting to me.

CrazyWJ242

yeah its mostly a labor intensive job, not alot of special parts required, but a few chemicals/fluids and grease are needed... all you can pick up at your local parts store for probably $50 and have enough to last a few years doing every vehicle you own lol...

you can even get the stuff in blister packs which usually gives you just enough product to get the job done...

Synthetic Brake Caliper Lube, (i prefer Permatex Ceramic Extreme purple stuff)
Silver Anti Sieze (Permatex again)
Brake Cleaner (cheapest nastiest stuff i can find lol)
shop towels
wire brush
scotch pads for cleaning pins if pitted/rusty
large C clamp incase you need to push the caliper pision back in (especially if replacing pads)
Time 30-45 minutes per wheel... maybe longer for the first time, and longer if you have to replace any parts...

I always test my Ebrake before hand since your going to be a step away from servicing it if its necessary, i usually drive it around a few feet with the ebrake slightly engaged to wear down the surface in the rotor just to make sure everything looks good... check to see that it releases fully and all that good stuff... if its sticking, theres no time like the present to fix it!

if your calipers have built a lip on the edge of the brake rotor, a grinder/ impact hammer tool helps break off the build up that will prevent the pad from making full contact with the rotor.

Basic hand tools are required, remove the caliper retaining bolts, remove the sliders, remove the pads, inspect and clean everything with brake clean, scrub any build up you see with the scotch pad, re-grease, and re assemble...

this is where technique comes into effect... you do not want to take the rotors to turn in on a milling machine (which can cost nearly as much as new rotors these days) so you dont want to damage the surface area where the pad makes contact, your just looking to remove any build up on the outer edge, and around the hub if possible... i've been able to do this with just a small light hammer, gently tapping away at the lip and having it fall right off in pieces, and give it a touch with the grinder

If you end up taking the rotors off inspect the ebrake shoes, and clean with brake clean, i usually dont use my ebrake, but i make it a point to use it once a month or so... if you really dont want to worry, disassemble and clean and apply lots of antisieze to all the moving parts...

also a good time to inspect those axle seals, if you see a ton of oil you know their shot...

CrazyWJ242

And if your rotors have those pesky speed nuts on them i've found using side cutters the easiest way to get them off,

you dont need to reinstall these either, their installed just to help during assembly of the vehicle and will try and kill you if you install a wheel spacer over them...

tool_guy

I agree that it's a pretty simple task to complete and yes it's mostly labor intensive but if you're going to be taking your jeep off road you should learn how to do it and do it a few times a season. Dirt and mud is hell on brakes.

If you'd like you can come out to my place and I'll show you/Help you do it so that you can learn.

AutoJunkieMan

I watched a teraflex video on wheels and when I did my first tire rotation I cut them off already (was a pain in the butt...)

I still need a good jack and axle stands before I can get to doing anything yet, when I look at my brakes through my wheels right now there still brand new looking. It's just intimidating when you've no clue what your doing, I never had anyone in my family to teach me so I am kind of going at it on my own right now and I don't want to end up dead because I messed up something heh.

Thanks

AutoJunkieMan

That sounds good, my working schedule is super messy right now most my up time is staggered. I am looking at about 3 weeks of vacation right now and I will probably be looking at maybe camping/wheeling for 2 weeks out of this summer maybe save one week for near christmas. On the "other forum" you said you wouldn't mind going out with me, which sounds cool I got my eyes on some sliders (still haven't gone out to get them yet, kind of procrastinating). But there pretty simple for install, think I might get them put on for the 16th before we head up to Midland for the weekend. Opening night for the drive in (if there playing good movies)

Sliders I was looking at, affordable simple and easy to install. Might pick up a CB Kit while I am out there, I am confident I can figure out how to tune the antenna with my SWG meter but we'll see.

Rugged Ridge Part 11504.21 - RRC 2" Tubular Side Armor - - 4 Wheel Parts

tool_guy

There is more to serviceing your brakes that just pad thickness. This is even more true when it comes to jeeps and offroad activities. We put our rigs through some nasty conditions and the sliders and calipers require cleaning and lubrication on a more than norrmal frequency.

I work rotating shifts so my schedule can be somewhat flexable. Most sliders are somewhat simple to install. I did mine in the driveway with no isses.

And yes I'd be more to happy to take you out on some trails just as soon as my jeep is back on the road. It's currently in the shop having the rear locker replaced. I broke it last fall while towing someone off a trail.

Regards

AutoJunkieMan

Sounds good, I would like to get some Detroit lockers eventually further down the road. I also understand that they need to be cleaned more, I am sure I can get er' done I just don't have a place to do it right now. I live in an apartment with an underground, so I would have to go over to my gf's sister's house to do it.

Right now my schedule I work over nights, 12hr sat 11pm - 11am, 8hr sun to thurs 11pm - 7am. It's rough trying to schedule anything

tool_guy

You'll only want to put a detroit locker (it's actually more of an un locker) in the rear of your jeep. If it was me I'd save up the money for a selectable locker. Either air or electrically operated.

AutoJunkieMan

I am put off by selectable lockers, there really pricey. Right now I am just looking at something for the rear maybe next year or so, my front axle is stock I want to say 33? If I end up replacing it, I don't want to put in a locker that will have to be changed also and spend more money.

Complete ARB systems are super expensive, I could lift my jeep and get a new set of wheels for the same price. So Detroit lockers appeal to me sensibility.