Savvy Mechanic Opinion Needed
 

So I have a question, kind of a weird one but one i ran into today. (a rep input would be nice also)

I went in for an oil change today, I don't put alot of KMs on my rig but I run it 40 minutes a day round trip to work. Aprox 23kms a day or so all city driving. Get on the highway once a month run out to ajax and keep everything running nice, I know it needs to get a run down the highway once in a while. When I came in the guy there said he suggested that I get my break sliders lubed when my one year came up, I said my one year was last march (sitting at less then 17,000kms right now) so he said you should get it done make sure your breaks to prematurely wear down or something or other. He was kind of being evasive with the question, said something along the lines of newer vehicles can't be grinded down or something. It's not I wasn't listening it's just he was looking down and not explaining very well, also I was tired (just finished a night shift).

So I asked how much for this "lube job" he said we have a special $180 plus parts, after this month $220 plus parts. My response was.. uhh no. If it's not major repair I can wait and save up the money before getting something like this done, but it all kind of struck me as weird all the same. I told him I drive standard, and even in the city I hardly ever use my breaks at all. They still feel brand new to me, so I thought maybe this is something I could maybe learn and do myself. I am not super mechanical but I am a good study, I also rotate my tires myself so really it can't be that big of a deal.

My question is, are they trying to scam me? Can I do this myself? From what little I could google on the subject it's just a labour intensive job and your paying for there time mostly, if that is the case if it doesn't take long when I do my rotation again in a few weeks I could maybe give it shot? I know I'll be putting on my own rock sliders, just need to pick up a tube of loctight.

My major skills are in electrical, wiring and PC hardware. Mechanics is new, and interesting to me.

Re: Savvy Mechanic Opinion Needed
 

yeah its mostly a labor intensive job, not alot of special parts required, but a few chemicals/fluids and grease are needed... all you can pick up at your local parts store for probably $50 and have enough to last a few years doing every vehicle you own lol...

you can even get the stuff in blister packs which usually gives you just enough product to get the job done...

Synthetic Brake Caliper Lube, (i prefer Permatex Ceramic Extreme purple stuff)
Silver Anti Sieze (Permatex again)
Brake Cleaner (cheapest nastiest stuff i can find lol)
shop towels
wire brush
scotch pads for cleaning pins if pitted/rusty
large C clamp incase you need to push the caliper pision back in (especially if replacing pads)
Time 30-45 minutes per wheel... maybe longer for the first time, and longer if you have to replace any parts...

I always test my Ebrake before hand since your going to be a step away from servicing it if its necessary, i usually drive it around a few feet with the ebrake slightly engaged to wear down the surface in the rotor just to make sure everything looks good... check to see that it releases fully and all that good stuff... if its sticking, theres no time like the present to fix it!

if your calipers have built a lip on the edge of the brake rotor, a grinder/ impact hammer tool helps break off the build up that will prevent the pad from making full contact with the rotor.

Basic hand tools are required, remove the caliper retaining bolts, remove the sliders, remove the pads, inspect and clean everything with brake clean, scrub any build up you see with the scotch pad, re-grease, and re assemble...

this is where technique comes into effect... you do not want to take the rotors to turn in on a milling machine (which can cost nearly as much as new rotors these days) so you dont want to damage the surface area where the pad makes contact, your just looking to remove any build up on the outer edge, and around the hub if possible... i've been able to do this with just a small light hammer, gently tapping away at the lip and having it fall right off in pieces, and give it a touch with the grinder

If you end up taking the rotors off inspect the ebrake shoes, and clean with brake clean, i usually dont use my ebrake, but i make it a point to use it once a month or so... if you really dont want to worry, disassemble and clean and apply lots of antisieze to all the moving parts...

also a good time to inspect those axle seals, if you see a ton of oil you know their shot...

Re: Savvy Mechanic Opinion Needed
 

And if your rotors have those pesky speed nuts on them i've found using side cutters the easiest way to get them off,

you dont need to reinstall these either, their installed just to help during assembly of the vehicle and will try and kill you if you install a wheel spacer over them...

Re: Savvy Mechanic Opinion Needed
 

I agree that it's a pretty simple task to complete and yes it's mostly labor intensive but if you're going to be taking your jeep off road you should learn how to do it and do it a few times a season. Dirt and mud is hell on brakes.

If you'd like you can come out to my place and I'll show you/Help you do it so that you can learn.

Re: Savvy Mechanic Opinion Needed
 

I watched a teraflex video on wheels and when I did my first tire rotation I cut them off already (was a pain in the butt...)

I still need a good jack and axle stands before I can get to doing anything yet, when I look at my brakes through my wheels right now there still brand new looking. It's just intimidating when you've no clue what your doing, I never had anyone in my family to teach me so I am kind of going at it on my own right now and I don't want to end up dead because I messed up something heh.

Thanks

Re: Savvy Mechanic Opinion Needed
 

That sounds good, my working schedule is super messy right now most my up time is staggered. I am looking at about 3 weeks of vacation right now and I will probably be looking at maybe camping/wheeling for 2 weeks out of this summer maybe save one week for near christmas. On the "other forum" you said you wouldn't mind going out with me, which sounds cool I got my eyes on some sliders (still haven't gone out to get them yet, kind of procrastinating). But there pretty simple for install, think I might get them put on for the 16th before we head up to Midland for the weekend. Opening night for the drive in (if there playing good movies)

Sliders I was looking at, affordable simple and easy to install. Might pick up a CB Kit while I am out there, I am confident I can figure out how to tune the antenna with my SWG meter but we'll see.

Rugged Ridge Part 11504.21 - RRC 2" Tubular Side Armor - - 4 Wheel Parts

Re: Savvy Mechanic Opinion Needed
 

There is more to serviceing your brakes that just pad thickness. This is even more true when it comes to jeeps and offroad activities. We put our rigs through some nasty conditions and the sliders and calipers require cleaning and lubrication on a more than norrmal frequency.

I work rotating shifts so my schedule can be somewhat flexable. Most sliders are somewhat simple to install. I did mine in the driveway with no isses.

And yes I'd be more to happy to take you out on some trails just as soon as my jeep is back on the road. It's currently in the shop having the rear locker replaced. I broke it last fall while towing someone off a trail.

Regards

Re: Savvy Mechanic Opinion Needed
 

Sounds good, I would like to get some Detroit lockers eventually further down the road. I also understand that they need to be cleaned more, I am sure I can get er' done I just don't have a place to do it right now. I live in an apartment with an underground, so I would have to go over to my gf's sister's house to do it.

Right now my schedule I work over nights, 12hr sat 11pm - 11am, 8hr sun to thurs 11pm - 7am. It's rough trying to schedule anything

Re: Savvy Mechanic Opinion Needed
 

You'll only want to put a detroit locker (it's actually more of an un locker) in the rear of your jeep. If it was me I'd save up the money for a selectable locker. Either air or electrically operated.

Re: Savvy Mechanic Opinion Needed
 

I am put off by selectable lockers, there really pricey. Right now I am just looking at something for the rear maybe next year or so, my front axle is stock I want to say 33? If I end up replacing it, I don't want to put in a locker that will have to be changed also and spend more money.

Complete ARB systems are super expensive, I could lift my jeep and get a new set of wheels for the same price. So Detroit lockers appeal to me sensibility.

Re: Savvy Mechanic Opinion Needed
 

As far as I know you cannot put a detroit locker in the front of your jeep. A detroit locker is actually locked all the time and it will unlock when required. That's why the name is confusing to some people. You could use something like and eaton e locker for the front and a detroit in the rear or start with an e locker in the rear and then add the front one later. You'll use the rear much more than the front and then it also depends on how much and what type of trails you actually drive on. I don't use my lockers very much. Only on fairly extreme obstacles. And I normally try it not locked first and see how it goes. You'll be surprised what your jeep will actually go over and through.

Re: Savvy Mechanic Opinion Needed
 

Yeah for sure I am going to wheel a bit before attempting lockers, do you use Air Lockers or Electric Lockers? I was looking at ARB lockers, like 1 grand for the locker itself and almost 300 for a heavy duty compressor then it needs labour and switches etc installed. So what all money in a little over 2 grand just to do the rear? Then I expect 1.5 for the front, thats alot of dough.. :S Kind of regretting not getting a rubi but then again I also heard that the lockers in that are kind of flimsy too if you go up a tire size. To many opinions, not enough experience and it's alot of cash to take a chance.

Re: Savvy Mechanic Opinion Needed
 

I have a 03 TJ Rubicon so it has stock air lockers in it with somewhat of a limited slip in the rear. The JKs use an e locker and I know people that have swapped in entire axles in order to get the JK lockers.

The front TJ locker is solid. But the rear has issues with the limited slip gears. I actually broke mine last fall rescuing a guy on a trail near Minden. I had to pull him out about 10.5 KM. Now had I actually had my rear locker enguaged I wouldn't have broken anything.

So since I already have on board air my decision was easy. I went with an ARB locker for the rear and the actual locker installation is beyond my skill level but I have no problem with the wiring and air lines. ARBs instructions are very well written. I also got a good deal on the locker through some club members who own Canadian Shield 4x4 Outfitters down in Niagara Falls. They are worth looking up. Their pricing is very good as they are able to complete their own brokerage and have a us address that they ship to.

Now there are other options other that ARB air lockers. There are some e lockers(Eaton and Yukon are a couple names that come to mind) and some cable actuated lockers of which I don't know any names.

As far as the stock lockers being flimsy I know guys that are running 35's and 37's with the stock JK lockers without any issue. A lot of that comes down to driving style. The people that have lots of problems tend to be heavy on the skinny pedal.

Do some asking around before automatically jumping to the detroit locker. Since this will keep the back axle locked all the time and only unlock when your wheels are spinning at different speeds you'll notice a huge differance on the road. Depending on your driving style you will notice and hear the detroit locker unlock while accelerating and sometimes while turning a corner.

Don't think too much about lockers for the time being. Concentrate more on getting sway bar quick disconnects, better/more agressive tires and a small lift. Unless you already have this done you're not going to get into too many suitations where you will require lockers.

Re: Savvy Mechanic Opinion Needed
 

Don't know much about sway bar disconnects, I was looking at a really nice suspension setup from teraflex. Complete kit, I want new springs and shocks. I have a sport so I got hydraulic shocks at the moment, it wasn't to badly priced and I really don't want a budget boost put on.

Tires I was looking at 35/12.50R15 tires (going down in size for the rim really makes a huge price difference) Looking at Duratracs, less then $200 per tire. Obviously I want to burn down the tires I have now before swapping out, looking at 2.5" lift I don't want to go to high. Looking at new bumper (maybe XRC?) winch with synthetic rope cabling, rear bumper, new carrier (XRC to match?) tons of stuff I want to do to my rig, I think I need to win the lotto!

Re: Savvy Mechanic Opinion Needed
 

You can go to a 2.5" budget boost to accomplish what you want. It's not too big. I don't know if 35s would fit under the fenders nicely. Anyone I know that's put 35s on with a smallish lift has to put a flat style fender like the bushwackers on. Again if you want to do something like a 2-2.5" budget boost it will only run you in the $500 range and I'd be more than willing to help you install it in my driveway.

Swaybar disconnects allow you to quickly disconnect the front axle from the sway bar. This will allow much more articulation for your front axle and makes a huge differance on the trail. You can accomplish the same thing my unbolting the stock sway bar links but it's a pain in the butt. I'd only suggest the JKS disconnects. Most others that I've seen use a ball and socket type setup that has a sliding sleeve. Once you get some dirt and mud into the sleeve it becomes hard to operate.

After disconnects and a small lift I'd look at tires and you're correct about the rim size making them less expensive because there are more around. If you have odd ball size rims then the tire are more scarce and therefore they cost more. The most common sizes are 15 and 17.

Once you get to that point because of the larger tires I'd suggest a rear bumper and tire carrier first for 2 reasons. One to keep the added weight off the tailgate of the jeep and two I know on a TJ you cannon put a key in the lock cylinder with a 35" tire on the door.

Then front bumper with good tow points. There is nothing wrong with the stock hooks but it's always nice to use a shackle on a bumper so you don't have to worry about having the strap come unhooked on you. Once you get to that point then you can start looking at winches. Synthetic line is more expensive and more fragile than steel but it's also much safer and lighter.

Re: Savvy Mechanic Opinion Needed
 

I was looking at something more then a budget boost, from what I've been told 35s will go under using this kit. But I was going to want flat fenders anyways, so if I chew these ones up its no biggie!

TeraFlex Part 1251002 - 2.5 Inch Lift Kit - - 4 Wheel Parts

Thats the kit I was looking at getting, I know I definitely want better shocks try and improve the ride quality. I wanted Fox shocks but they are super expensive!

Re: Savvy Mechanic Opinion Needed
 

Have a look at Bilstien shocks. They are less expensive than fox. I run them as do a number of other people I wheel with and we're all extremly happy with them.

The other thing that you can do with your stock fenders before you get flat fenders is to trim them. There should be a link or thread somewhere on where exactly to cut them.

Teraflex makes a pretty good product. The other company to look at is Rubicon express and pro comp.

Re: Savvy Mechanic Opinion Needed
 

I've heard alot of people getting that kit and subsituting Bilstien shocks. Teraflex actually offered the kit with that as an order option at one point. I would definetly put them in if I had the option for the upgrade. But I wouldn't if I had 4 shocks I just paid for that will be collecting dust.