Jeepminded

To the OP, you have some good advice. I first discovered this at about 50,000KM when I did my rear break pads the first time.

There are clips that snap into the calipers that you break pads tabs slide on. I have the part number at home if you need it, got them from the dealer. These little suckers need to be cleaned, and a dab of caliper grease put on the tab...the flat part and the shoulder.

I've done this three times, most recently last year when I did new rotors and pads (Power Stop), great product. Been about 25,000KM, and guess what....I have the squeek back....lightly press on the breaks you have it, hit them harder its gone...I have to do this again ion the next few weeks.

While there I always clean up the piston with break cleaner, lube that, the back side of both pads, and caliper pins if needed. The little boots on the caliper pins get a shot of silicon lube to keep them soft.

AND, while you are there, remove the rotor, clean, inspect the e-brake, and fore sure you will need to adjust that sucker, as they are not self adjusting and like most, are usually too loose.

I've done breaks on many trucks, and the JK is VERY easy to work on, just remember, do one side at a time, this way you have a reference point, all be a mirror image.

Project JK (Wayalife forum now) has a really good write up on the how to...Eddy did a great job with pictures and explanation.

Taking my time (and I'm very picky with all my work) I tend to this over a two cups off coffee and a modest 2.5 hrs of garage time with my Jeep.

Shoot back if you have more questions....

Good luck

AutoJunkieMan

Sounds like you know what your doing, its easy when you know what your getting yourself into. One day maybe when I am on vacation or something I'll tear it apart and fiddle, I've seen a few videos but it's hard to tell until your right in it. I'll be going on vacation on the 5th of next month, so we will see. The scoring doesn't seem to be getting worse, and I haven't heard it since the last time. I've driven the truck a few times since then, I think it might be the warmer weather having something to do with it but who knows.

I'll let ya know how it goes if I do it, I am just worried about torqued bolts. I don't have a small torque wrench, only a large one for tires.

AutoJunkieMan

So I looked (and signed up) with the jk experience website (I watch there videos too..) I saw the write up for brake replacement, that looks pretty simple actually. Didn't see much of anything on the parking brake or lubrication.

I've been trying to find videos or write ups about lubrication or maintenance of brakes on the JK but I can't find much. I seen a few general videos but nothing using the JK specifically. I am assuming the front brakes are similar if not the same? So the skills should be transferable, all I need for tools (if I don't get a small torque wrench) is a C clamp and lubrication grease and maybe some gloves.

oldfart

The front and rear are pretty much the same thing. The only difference is that the rear has the parking brake inside the drum part of the rotor.

Jeepminded

Here's a few link to get you going that really helped me.....

Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource » Jeep JK Wrangler Maintenance Emergency/Parking Hand Brake Adjustment

Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource » Jeep JK Wrangler Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource » Jeep JK Wrangler Torque Settings

I usually do a dry run before doing something new, up to the point of removal,,,usually address tools or materials I forgot to get or need.

I used my 250ft/lb 1/2" t-wrench on the break fasteners, just had to get creative with extensions.

Everyone as limits, ok to push them a bit....but never any shame in supporting your local 4X4 shop from time to time

AutoJunkieMan

These are good resources, and I've read through them all but sadly as I said there is nothing really in there about where the lube goes.

Jeepminded

You're right, Eddy doesn't show that part. Take a look at step 13, here you can see the brake pad tab 'metal clip' being snapped home into the caliper it's self. There's 4 of these clips per caliper. That "U" shape of this new clip being installed is where you want to ensure is lubed. It's this U channel that the tabs of your break pads slide on.

This picture also shows the break piston, always a good idea to put a light coat of break lube on this, as it's this point the back side of your inner break pad makes contact with.

I'll be doing this same work on my Jeep in a couple of weeks, I snap a few photos to help show the lubrication points.

AutoJunkieMan

Sounds good thanks! I heard putting lube on the back of the brake pads is also a good idea, any idea on this?

AutoJunkieMan

OK so I bought an adjustable C Clamp 4" - 7", and got some X-Tra Heavy Duty Wheel Bearing Grease by Lucas Oil Products. It seemed like the best stuff, says it's good until 560F (highest temp i could find others were around 300 and said for brake calipers) it's exeeded all marine application specs, resisted squeezing out, and maintains a consistant film of protection even under irregular maintenence (which I figure would be a bonus on the clips since it needs to have a low friction surface).

I heard a few talking about bearing grease wearing out rubber boots, but i think this should be ok. It's good for CV joints and electrical contacts, so I really don't think it should bother the pin boots.

Lucas Oil | Hi-Performance Lucas Oil Products Inc.

I got the top one on that page, but i got it in a container instead of a tube. So i can reseal it.

zrs

Use specific brake lube! That stuff you have will destroy the rubber boots surrounding the slide bolts. Ceramic brake lubricant by permatex is one of the better ones. Silicone based brake lubricants, or synthetic brake lubes are excellent too. Don't use petroleum based lubricants on anything that may contact rubber.