On a 98 ZJ... Which type of steering joint is stronger, U Joint or CV, any other advantages one over the other ?
Can a U joint axel be swapped for a CV axel by just changing the axel shaft ?

 

they have their pro's and cons just like everything else, U joints are typically stronger but are bigger, you have to have alot more room from the axle tube to the knuckle, otherwise you limit the your turning radius.

CV's typically have alot more flexibility, and are more compact... but seem to be weaker... but their usually good for up to 33's and 35's if your not hardcore crawling with a locker installed...

 

Hi CrazyWJ242
Thanks again for your input, so I can interchange the axels? without modification?

 

If you can get it all to match up (spline count, and lengths) then theres no reason for it not to be interchangeable... old Cherokees used universal joints instead of CV's in their axle... the big thing is stuffing it all into that tiny area... i know alot of people with put in U joints and have to delete the ABS (gives an extra inch or so for the U joints to flex)

if its a trail rig who needs ABS anyways...

 

Ok, I have a 98 ZJ (base model) it has U Joints, probably never going to see any serious off road except maybe to go fishing. the joints are shot, probably lack of lube, I'm thinking of replacing them with greaseable joints is there clearance for the nipple and access (space looks limited at lock to lock) I'm wondering if the other yoke is going to knock the nipple off on a full lock turn.
or should I just buy new axels with CV joints. U joint has ABS tone ring and I would like to keep that function the most important thing is to be able to add lube periodically because I don't want to have to do this job again,( I'm running out of wrenches ) and I need to fix 2 more Dana 30s with CV failures, so I'm definetly going to need a better way to get these darn hubs off.
thanks again for your responses,

 

When you own a Jeep you should automatically include a 3,5, and 10lb BFH in your toolbox. they definitely come in handy for getting rusted parts to move.

 

Well if you're not going to go off-road that much,then You should stick with u joints,it'll be more cost effective instead of swapping to CV joints.There are many types out there mainly H2O proof u joints would be your best bet.
Check out the link it's an exploded view of the complete front axle http://www.quadratec.com/advisor/jee.../axleZJ30F.php

 

Thanks Berserkur,
I think you are right, I've got the axels out now and they look ok except for the Joint and some rust around the Slinger, tone wheels ok but dirty, I would rather go with greaseable, and I don't really require H2O With some fresh lube once in awhile they should last for as long as we are still using fossil fuel. :-)