Hid kits
 

I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee and would like to know if anyone knows of a HID Kit that works with the DRL's ?

The DRL mode is hard wired into the computer. I had a kit put in, but it wouldn't work because of the DRL mode, which cannot be shut off even by the dealers computers.

Re: Hid kits
 

I need a copy of your wiring diagram to the kit you installed. The stock DRL is controlled by the BCM yes. But it only controls the relays to the headlights, and senses if you have monkeyed with it. It will send a code from the BCM, claiming headlight failures, and all that jazz. If you send me a copy of the HID kits schematics, I may be able to help you. I have installed these on Fords for police units, and a few other customers. To avoid the warning lights, you need to complete the circuits in those relays, or it will constantly complain about headlight issues. Sometimes, it really easy. Other times, it will make you want to pull your hair out. A lot of dealerships do not deal with these types of mods. Believe me, it can make you want to drink.

Re: Hid kits
 

Thanks for replying. I will try and get one today, if not, I'll see if this particular kit has it on-line.

Re: Hid kits
 

hi. has anyone been able to come up with a simple solution for this?
I have a 2000 gc and have not been able to use a plug and play system.
my system doesnt use relays, just the factory wire harness, to plug into a ballast/igniter and then a wire goes to the 9006 HID "bulb".

I'm at my wits end. I can get one light to work, but not both. I may just insert them into my fog lights.

Re: Hid kits
 

I am a professional custom installer and have been for 6 years. I have installed more xenon kits than i can count. I have an 2002 overland with the kits in the head lamps and fog lamps. There are a number of issues you must address. 1 Plug and play???? they say its so easy all you have to do is plug them into your factory harness.......No. If you want your kits to last then don't do that, the factory wireing can't give enough juice to run them, thats why you've probly seen people with a burnt out aftermarket xenon kit, they did plug and play. Also a down side to plug and play is feedback. Feedback?? no not on ebay, if you do not put a diode on the power you will have a huge radio problem static and lots of it. And drls? yes you can get around them by simply finding your drl relay ( if you have one) and removeing it. The best way to install the xenon kits is by fabricating a custom harness with a relay and diode. You will have 3choices with your drl's 1 lose them 2 your xenon lighs will always be on or 3 install a switch that will cut the trigger of your factory light to the relay you install.

Hope that helped . And if your looking for xenon convertions kits I do sell them for cheap pm me for exact pricing.

Re: Hid kits
 

PM'ed.
I wondered about the DRL. I located it, but can't get to it. Its screwed up under teh steering column too far. I'm not sure how to access it.

Re: Hid kits
 

what do you want from the drl relay???

Re: Hid kits
 

i want to bypass the DRL's and to be able to use an HID kit for my low beams.

Re: Hid kits
 

I have tried to install HIDs on my 2000 GC. I never could get them to work. Now, I don't know what kind of experience the guy who says that he's been installing HIDs for 6yrs, but everything he's claimed would happen on the Jeep, didn't happen on mine.

On the 99 to 04 models, the DRLs on running on the low-beams. When in DRL mode, the power to the low-beams is not the same as it would be if the lights were on. Therefore, the HIDs flicker. The flickering, causes an overload and blows the fuse. Once the fuse has blown, you no longer have a light. This, to me, would be why you see some Jeeps with only one working HID, not b/c the bulb burnt or the ballast failed, but b/c the fuse blew.

If I turned on the lights, then the HIDs worked perfectly fine, no flicker, not feedback, no overload and definitely no whine or static in the stereo. Having the activate the parking brake to keep the DRLs off, start the Jeep, turn on the lights, then turn off the parking brake was a nuisance.

The DRLs and the low-beam relay are one in the same. Even if you switched it to a relay that doesn't support DRLs, it doesn't stop them from turning on. Pulling various fuses under the hood that point to the DRLs doesn't actually stop them from working either. Also, there are other parts that piggy back onto these fuses and relays, such as the instrument cluster lights and various gauges.

By now, you might be thinking, "If the DRLs go off when you have the parking brake on, why don't you just rig the parking brake so that the system thinks that the switch is activated and permanently shut off the DRLs that way?" Well, thought of that and the problem is that when you bypass the switch on the parking brake, it actually affects your ABS system and turns it off as well, thus turning on the ABS light on the dash.

The only solution I haven't tried and was suggested on another Jeep forum site, was to program the BCM to the US country code, shutting off the DRLs and changing the relay to the one supplied on the GCs in the US. I haven't tried this b/c it is against the law in Canada to turn off your DRLs and no dealership that values it's license will turn them off for you. I don't have the equipment to do it myself and at the time I didn't live close enough to the US boarder to make it worthwhile to go to a garage there. Also, the relays for these things aren't cheap. I paid $75 CAD for a signal light relay. Yeesh.

In response to installing HID kids on Ford Crown Vics. Not quite the same, since the DRLs on a Crown Vic burn off the high beams and have no relevance to installing a bi-xenon HID kit on the car. The DRLs don't affect the kit on a Crown Vic one way or the other. Ford chose to burn them off the high beams, as most manufacturers do, to prolong the life of the low-beam lights. How often do you use your high beams? Not very often.

Re: Hid kits
 

Crappy deal.
I have come to live with the fact that the best I can do in Canada, is what I have already done.
New Projector headlamps (awesome looking), new HIR Bulbs, and a high power wire harness from Kolak (in the states).
The light output is MUCH better than a factory set up, but no where near HID quality lighting, which I have on my other 2 cars. I'm happy with the results, IF i was not to compare them to a HID setup, i guess.
C'est la vie.

Re: Hid kits
 

For the 99-04's you had to make really good friends with a mechanic with a DRB reader and have him reset the DRL code to the US. No more DRL's, unfortunately that won't help you with the 05+ since the headlights and driving lights use the BUS system to check that thier working.

Dan

Re: Hid kits
 

I also have an 05. The DRL's use the high beam bulbs anyway so they will not interfere if you only put HID's in your low beams. You will also need a relay harness to make them work and not flicker. I only put HID's in my low beams because I wanted to keep the smart beam system functional since the smartbeams vary bulb brightness and HID's are either on or off.

Re: Hid kits
 

I agree. My 07 GC has DRL high beam only. I installed my kit from my 2006 Grand prix (both bulbs are same) and had issues stated above. Got a $10 relay harness and worked great. Ive had them for 2+ years

Re: Hid kits
 

I hate to revive a long dead thread... But has anyone tried simply replacing the high beam bulb on a 1999 GC with a low beam bulb, and plugging the regular halogen high beam into the low beam harness? Then you can use your HIDs with a flick of the high beam when you need them... This SHOULD eliminate the flickering problem in theory.

I just installed an HID projector beam kit, and I am currently having trouble with flickering on the DRL setting as well. So my next thought was to try the setup above since the high beams in my particular housings are just halogens anyway.... Thoughts?

Re: Hid kits
 

With the modern HID kits available i wouldn't think this problem would exist anymore. Most HID kits actually use LESS power then traditional halogen bulbs, so this "flicker" issue kind of baffles me. I've seen full Hi and Low beam kits available in the toronto area.
HID Canada - HIDC-R3 HID Conversion Kit [KTR3XX] - $169.99 : HID Canada, Illuminating Your World
I think that is the website, the technology has come up a bit since 2009?

Re: Hid kits
 

The flickering is usually on the can bus system. I've had both a 2K2 WJ OVERLAND and still currently have a 2K7 OVERLAND and had/have Xenons in both. My WJ just bedded a relay and a wire harness and the WK needs the same plus a capacitor. And if you get a PBS code it'll even need a resistor. I have a starscan and changed my Canadian WK to USA mode. Has nothing to do with the Xenons but it's the high beams. Also the WJ either use the relay and harness and live with the Xenons always on or you can run a ugly switch.

Re: Hid kits
 

The problem I'm having is actually this:

I installed the ballasts and capacitors on both sides, but found that the driver side light does NOT work when hooked up to the capacitor, no matter which capacitor I use. I can't figure out why, it doesn't make any sense. Strangely enough, with ONE capacitor on the passenger side, so long as I actually turn the low beams ON before starting my vehicle, I can turn the low beams OFF after the lights warm up and run them as DRLs.

So, I have two choices, run the halogen high beams off the low beam harness so I still get DRLs without flicker issues, or try to purchase Canbus ballasts that have the capacitors built in. Problem is, I don't know if I'd just be wasting my money - what if the driver side just doesn't work with the capacitor, built in or not? I have also heard I may need to use a wiring harness to run the HIDs directly off my battery if I want them to work properly. What is involved with that? I haven't seen any video installs covering it yet...

Yes, running my HIDs off the high beam switch is a ghetto little MacGyver move, but it saves me money and it should work. I'm surprised no one has thought to try this simple solution.

Re: Hid kits
 

Sounds like you have a burnt capacitor or the polarity is wrong. Either way it's sounds to me like you're not using a relay. You don't need 2 capacitors only one. You need to do what you're saying. Take a normal 12 volt auto relay put the 12 volt constant from battery to 30(relay pin), make 87(relay pin) go to both ballasts positive, and use only one of your jeeps low beam plugs and use it on the relays triggers 85 and 86 (polarity isn't important)but use the capacitor on the triggers. No choice only way to install Xenons properly require a relay and wiring harness to the battery.

Re: Hid kits
 

The Capacitor and polarity are fine, because they both work on the passenger side without issue. I won't run a relay and wiring harness off the battery... It'll just turn an already culttered mess into worse. I already had to reroute the headlight wiring harnesses to reach my aftermarket bulb inputs by cutting holes in the headlight bracket. In hindsight, I should have bought the lights most similar to stock, but I liked the look of a different set.

I've ordered higher quality capacitors to see if it fixes the problem... If not, I'm happy to run the HIDs off the high beam plugs instead. To me, it's the simplest most elegant solution.

Re: Hid kits
 

I understand.

Just so you know I'm a seller/tech for automotive electronics and IMO you will either burn your ballasts or even risk burning fuses or even worse, wires. I sell hIds for 60 locally and I used to install them when I was younger but now I havE a tech doing it for me. When clients pay 40$ on install some of them want to try and save money and do their own install. Sure it's plug and play but there is rarely enough juice(amps) in a oem headlight wiring harness to do the initial power up of cold Xenons. If you ever see people with aftermarket hids and only one is working 9/10 times it's cause they tried to cut corners and skipped out on the relay harness.

Good luck to you.

Re: Hid kits
 

I appreciate the help, by no means am I trying to start a fight, lol!

So let me get this straight... I only need one capacitor if I was using a relay and wiring harness off the battery... Or would I only need one capacitor having everything wired up as I have it now without the relay?

Re: Hid kits
 

Didn't mean to come off rude if I did. There's no fight.

The way you got things now you woul need 2 caps. The relay harness would take 1 relay and 1 capacitor.

But like I said IMO they way you want it isn't recommended. Also if you have fogs you will not be able to use them with your Xenons being on the high beam.

Re: Hid kits
 

Fair enough, you are convincing me to go the relay harness route... I haven't upgraded the fog lights yet so they are utterly useless, but I wil eventually get LEDs installed there.

The one light out when I hook up both capacitors is evidence enough to me that there aren't enough amps to light up the HIDs once you explained it thoroughly.

One last question - The capacitors I ordered have a fuse built in, they are the ones pictured here:

HID Canada - HIDC-C3 Canceller [ECHIDCC3] - $45.00 : HID Canada, Illuminating Your World

Would that make it safe to use with a stock wiring harness, since the fuse would blow before shorting out the OEM wiring harness itself, assuming I've installed a bigger battery..?

If not, I guess I'll just have to make an ugly install even uglier. Don't really want an electrical fire.


What about kits like this that claim they are canadian DRL compatible:

http://absolutehid.ca/index.php/hid-...e-hid-kit.html

Do they ramp up the amps on startup so that it doesn't overload the OEM wiring harness, or is it just another "Magical claim"?