broken universal???
Got a 2000 GC ltd just pulled up to a stop sign and clunk clunk clunk. My drivers front wheel locked up. Only way to free it up
Was to put tranny into reverse move back a few feet then I could move forward again. But as soon as i come to almost a stop it locks up again. It started to chunk earlier today when making a left turn.... So I am thinking broken universal. Suggestions or thoughts??

Anyone parting out still a 2000 GC and have both front axles they want to sell. ??!!!
I changed both hub and bearing assys a month or so ago so take those back out and the splined shafts just pull out I do believe.

I was able to drive it slowly to my work where I got it inside. Good thing I only live a block away from work. I can steer fine I can move in reverse fine and stop in reverse fine. I put it in drive can move but as soon as I come to a stop (just before) it locks up. Just the driver's front wheel. lots of clunckinggoing on then LOCK UP!!!

no way it can be the calipers not with cluncking like this. Wheel is still straight (it was dark out) so did not look to see if ball joints. But again I couls steer no problem.
Being dumb here not sure if it has CV or universals any one know what a 2000 GC would come with?

sorry it is AWD

Thnx in advance all.


Please PM me or email to.
krobins@ianjones.com.

 

more and more I think about it with the ealier light cluncking today when I turn left only. This sound like a busted and jammed up universal joint. Now if I take off the wheel, then the hub & bearing assy. The axle will come straight out correct? I can repair it then slide it back into place?

 

Well it depends on the extent of the damage, take a look at the CV joints, you could either have univeral joints, or constant velocity joints, quick way to tell, does it have a boot or not.

when CV's break its typically cause there was a rip in the boot, it lost most of the grease and debris got in there, u joints is seal failure and dirt and debris gets in there... tell tale sign...

from the sound of it, id be suspecting the ring and pinon... meaning popping that cover off... just a hunch that i have... check those CV's if they appear fine (you'd probably see alot of rust on a U-joint, or the tear and grease everywhere) id pop the cover off the diff first...


tip for removinging the universals, and the axle itself... break the big 36mm nut loose first (i usually do this with my big breaker bar and a cheater bar, depending on how long its been on there) a tip is to put the jeep on the ground, take the center cap off the rim, and break it loose, then lift it in the air...

remove the brake caliper, remove the rotor, remove the 3 bolts holding in the wheel bearing,

CV's are a pain to repair, rebuild kits are hard to find, they'll usually have a replacment shaft and take your old one for a core...

 

yes CV joints.
I have ordered both front CV axle assys.
Just changed the hub & bearing assys a month ago so should be easy to take apart again. Slide out the axle assy then install.
I can't see it being a ring gear as I would not be able to move at all correct? seeing that it is a AWD Jeep.

 

got 2 news ones coming in today. I find it strange they are the same price tho seeing that one should be longer than the other no? Just saying as to where the center of the diff is. But maybe they are just priced like that. I can't see it being anything else as ONLY the drivers wheel locks up. will snap some pics 4sure tho. repair manual says it should just slide out then slide back in. Hub assy will be easy to take off as new ones have only been on for a month. Gonna tackle these tomorrow after work.

anyone change these (axles) before with any tips? tips beyond the hub assy as that I have done before.


thanks all

 

basically once you have the hubs off they should slide right out... when your installing the new axle, you want to be careful, once you have it in MOST the way, you want to try as best as you can to lift the end closest to the diff, this will prevent dirt and debris getting in the differential... and prevent damaging the axle seal.

 

this should be fun! lol

thanks for the tip, will keep this post in mind tomorrow morning.

 

if its real dirty, and the seals are good, id take a blowgun to the axle tube and get any dirt out before sliding in the new axle...

also check your fluid, great time to do it, if its been in there awhile, id swap it out too...

 

was easy peasy to do. Got both sides done and complete in just under a hour and a half *. Was easy to pull apart as I stated earlier I just did the hub assys.

*Lost a freakin' bolt tho! a bolt that holds the caliper to the knuckle. Have no idea where she went to! Fawk!! nobdy has one in the area. Closest to me here in Burlington is Oshawa. So I ordered a couple 1 to replace and one for a spare (you never know.)
drivers side was the issue, so changed both sides why the eff not!
I'm doing (changing) both diffs, t-case & tranny (filter too) all next week. Have a buddy doing that for me for $200 from a Mister T
so both sides (cv axles) form the dealership were $264 per side. I got both sides NIB with a year warranty for $190 cash.
thnx for the tips there Crazy! It's amazing how good of a repair guy you become when you own a Jeep! lol
My 2000 GC ltd (4.7L) now has 308,000 kms still runs great get 500km a tank. Only Major stuff is hub assys, front linkage, and now cv axle assys. Other than brakes, plugs and normal stuff she has been great to me.

cheers

 

Good stuff birdman!
and you definetly have that part right, i never tackled so much on a vehicle before UNTIL i got my jeep lol... removing axles is just normal to me now... havn't had a hickup doing one since...