turbolazi

Just after I bought that Truck from private, I heard that noises.So it turns out that it was the front driveshaft.So i took it out and verything was okay.
Next I went to different Driveshaft repair shops.Both told me that it is not possible to fix it because of the CV joints.One of them told me he could built a driveshaft with U-joints but that would be very expensive.
Next step: I ordered a used shaft , over Hollander parts, from a salvage yard in the states.
The shaft arrived yesterday and I put it in directly.
Result: the truck first runs smoth and nice.But- when took a turn on a parking space, the noise start again, klong,klong.
Then I put the gear on 4 low: terrible noises.
So, I don,t know what to do now.Do I have to buy astupid expensiv new shaft?
Are these CV joints realy that bad and not repairable?
By the way: a few years ago I bought a 1993 Grand cherokee.And gess whats happens?
Right- the front driveshaft ( even with U-joints)
Is Jeep that stupid that they can,t built driveshafts without problemsÉ
I am a little bit desparate meenwhile.

turbolazi

Was today visiting another Jeep dealer.They say now it should be the transfer case?!
But than again: i read in the internet, a demaged TC would make allways noises.But mine only with strong turns and in 4 low.
Can,t anybody help?
Thanks,
Norbert

trigger

not sure what your driveshaft guy considers to be expensive, but for what its worth Iron Rock Off Road carries a front driveshaft conversion kit for about $400. then you got to ship it, etc.

if your guy can build you one for less than that i would say go for it and get him to build you one.

...or order this...IRON ROCK OFF ROAD: Front Driveshaft Conversion Kit

trigger

or... you could get ahold of this guy, then you'd likely save a lot more money in the long run...

1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Peterborough Cars For Sale - Kijiji Peterborough Canada.

turbolazi

Yeah, that would be a nice idea.But how should I get the truck to BC?
I find nearly the same offer here in BC.Wrote the guy if it is still for sale, He wrote back yes.I wrote I take it and asked for the adress.he didn,t answered for 3 days and than he said he sold it.What a pur guy!

trigger

that will happen sometimes, but don't get discouraged. there are some good deals to be had.

in the meantime, you can look here Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist

prices seem pretty decent, and the quality looks good... lots of info there as well. good luck, and let us know how you make out.

salad

Your driveshaft guy is correct in that the CV joints really aren't reparable. As trigger suggested, converting to a driveline that uses Spicer-style U-joints will simplify servicing quite a lot. U-joints are simple to replace and cost about $10 each. You might even be able to find these off of other Grand Cherokees - I know ZJs (98 and earlier) had different options. Try calling some junkyards in your area, they might be of help.

Word of advice - NEVER use 4-Low on pavement. It locks front and rear driveshafts together and breaks things.

trigger

from what i understand ( and someone please correct me if i'm wrong here,) the grand cherokees with V8's have the driveshaft you want, all others (V6 & I-6) will have the CV style front shaft.

i would check and see if you can swap one for the other..

turbolazi

Sorry to bother again;
How can I check if the front driveshaft is okay or not?
I am totaly confused meanwhile.
I was in a jeep shop and they talked suddenly about a btoken transfer case?!
I took out again the front driveshaft and it runs perfect since that.But why is a broken transfercase able to work good without front driveshaft?
They want more than 3500 $ for repair.That is not possible for me.But what is now really broken-The driveshaft, or the transfercase-or both?
Its a shame but no shop can tell me exactly what is wrong.
I am a little bit desperade now.
Thanks,
Norbert

trigger

here's some info that might help...

DRIVELINE VIBRATION
Drive Condition Possible Cause Correction
Propeller Shaft Noise 1) Undercoating or other foreign material
on shaft.
1) Clean exterior of shaft and wash with
solvent.
2) Loose U-joint clamp screws. 2) Install new clamps and screws and
tighten to proper torque.
3) Loose or bent U-joint yoke or excessive
runout.
3) Install new yoke.
4) Incorrect driveline angularity. 4) Measure and correct driveline angles.
5) Rear spring center bolt not in seat. 5) Loosen spring u-bolts and seat center
bolt.
6) Worn U-joint bearings. 6) Install new U-joint.
7) Propeller shaft damaged or out of
balance.
7) Installl new propeller shaft.
8) Broken rear spring. 8) Install new rear spring.
9) Excessive runout or unbalanced
condition.
9) Re-index propeller shaft, test, and
evaluate.
10) Excessive drive pinion gear shaft
runout.
10) Re-index propeller shaft and evaluate.
11) Excessive axle yoke deflection. 11) Inspect and replace yoke if necessary.
12) Excessive transfer case runout. 12) Inspect and repair as necessary.
Universal Joint Noise 1) Loose U-joint clamp screws. 1) Install new clamps and screws and
tighten to proper torque.
2) Lack of lubrication. 2) Replace U-joints as necessary.


here is a link to my online copy of the WJ service manual.

http://www.4shared.com/office/RdHBz6...ervice_M.html?

you have to sign up to access it, but it's free to do so. in that manual you will find not only the prop shaft info listed above, but lots more as well...

hope you can get it sorted out...