Jeep CJ7 won't start/crank, CO just abuses vehicles
Guest
Posts: n/a
Jeep CJ7 won't start/crank, CO just abuses vehicles
The dilemma was that first my CJ& would not get power at all when the
key was in the ACC position, I had the steering column rebuilt and
reinstalled everything. The voltmeter reads 12 volts from the battery
which I had tested and recharged today.
When I turn the key to start the jeep I do not hear anything except
crickets.
I am new to troubleshooting jeeps and picked up a voltmeter today. All
the fuses looked god when I checked them.
Also my jeep is fuel injected if that makes a difference and I can
hear the fuel pump turn on when I push in the clutch.
Any help and suggestions would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob
key was in the ACC position, I had the steering column rebuilt and
reinstalled everything. The voltmeter reads 12 volts from the battery
which I had tested and recharged today.
When I turn the key to start the jeep I do not hear anything except
crickets.
I am new to troubleshooting jeeps and picked up a voltmeter today. All
the fuses looked god when I checked them.
Also my jeep is fuel injected if that makes a difference and I can
hear the fuel pump turn on when I push in the clutch.
Any help and suggestions would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Jeep CJ7 won't start/crank, CO just abuses vehicles
On Jan 8, 9:22 pm, rcaw...@gmail.com wrote:
> The dilemma was that first my CJ& would not get power at all when the
> key was in the ACC position, I had the steering column rebuilt and
> reinstalled everything. The voltmeter reads 12 volts from the battery
> which I had tested and recharged today.
>
> When I turn the key to start the jeep I do not hear anything except
> crickets.
>
> I am new to troubleshooting jeeps and picked up a voltmeter today. All
> the fuses looked god when I checked them.
>
> Also my jeep is fuel injected if that makes a difference and I can
> hear the fuel pump turn on when I push in the clutch.
>
> Any help and suggestions would be much appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Rob
Have you bridged the starter solenoid with a big screwdriver to see if
the starter motor spools up? If it does, you've likely got a bad
battery cable or bad ground. This will also tell if you the battery
has enough amps to turn the starter. Another possibility is the
ignition switch. On my Cherokee, this is on the steering column. I
know this because I have to replace it every 12 months or so, as it
seems to melt about that often.
S.
> The dilemma was that first my CJ& would not get power at all when the
> key was in the ACC position, I had the steering column rebuilt and
> reinstalled everything. The voltmeter reads 12 volts from the battery
> which I had tested and recharged today.
>
> When I turn the key to start the jeep I do not hear anything except
> crickets.
>
> I am new to troubleshooting jeeps and picked up a voltmeter today. All
> the fuses looked god when I checked them.
>
> Also my jeep is fuel injected if that makes a difference and I can
> hear the fuel pump turn on when I push in the clutch.
>
> Any help and suggestions would be much appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Rob
Have you bridged the starter solenoid with a big screwdriver to see if
the starter motor spools up? If it does, you've likely got a bad
battery cable or bad ground. This will also tell if you the battery
has enough amps to turn the starter. Another possibility is the
ignition switch. On my Cherokee, this is on the steering column. I
know this because I have to replace it every 12 months or so, as it
seems to melt about that often.
S.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Jeep CJ7 won't start/crank, CO just abuses vehicles
Your steering column has nothing to do with the ignition switch, it's
not inside there. The switch sits on top of the column way down at the
bottom and a rod goes from the switch to the key. Now the connecting
rod might have been sloppy, but...
The switches do get out of adjustment from wear on the linkage rods so
it has a sliding adjustment on the switch.
I would start down there.
I really don't understand how the fuel pump can come on when you push
the clutch. CJ's don't have any clutch switches in them that I know of.
On a normal CJ, I would say check the connections on the starter
solenoid on the fender for a bad connection.
One of the best 'inexpensive' books for your CJ7 is the Haynes manual.
It is spot on for wiring diagrams.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
rcawrse@gmail.com wrote:
> The dilemma was that first my CJ& would not get power at all when the
> key was in the ACC position, I had the steering column rebuilt and
> reinstalled everything. The voltmeter reads 12 volts from the battery
> which I had tested and recharged today.
>
> When I turn the key to start the jeep I do not hear anything except
> crickets.
>
> I am new to troubleshooting jeeps and picked up a voltmeter today. All
> the fuses looked god when I checked them.
>
> Also my jeep is fuel injected if that makes a difference and I can
> hear the fuel pump turn on when I push in the clutch.
>
> Any help and suggestions would be much appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Rob
not inside there. The switch sits on top of the column way down at the
bottom and a rod goes from the switch to the key. Now the connecting
rod might have been sloppy, but...
The switches do get out of adjustment from wear on the linkage rods so
it has a sliding adjustment on the switch.
I would start down there.
I really don't understand how the fuel pump can come on when you push
the clutch. CJ's don't have any clutch switches in them that I know of.
On a normal CJ, I would say check the connections on the starter
solenoid on the fender for a bad connection.
One of the best 'inexpensive' books for your CJ7 is the Haynes manual.
It is spot on for wiring diagrams.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
rcawrse@gmail.com wrote:
> The dilemma was that first my CJ& would not get power at all when the
> key was in the ACC position, I had the steering column rebuilt and
> reinstalled everything. The voltmeter reads 12 volts from the battery
> which I had tested and recharged today.
>
> When I turn the key to start the jeep I do not hear anything except
> crickets.
>
> I am new to troubleshooting jeeps and picked up a voltmeter today. All
> the fuses looked god when I checked them.
>
> Also my jeep is fuel injected if that makes a difference and I can
> hear the fuel pump turn on when I push in the clutch.
>
> Any help and suggestions would be much appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Rob
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Jeep CJ7 won't start/crank, CO just abuses vehicles
On Tue, 8 Jan 2008, rcawrse@gmail.com wrote:
> The dilemma was that first my CJ& would not get power at all when the
> key was in the ACC position, I had the steering column rebuilt and
> reinstalled everything. The voltmeter reads 12 volts from the battery
> which I had tested and recharged today.
Measured where and how? You can get a reading of 12V from a cable that
only has one wire the size of a human hair connected, but you can't push
any reasonable sort of load through that.
> When I turn the key to start the jeep I do not hear anything except
> crickets.
My guess is that when you removed the column you bunged up a safety switch
on the clutch. I'd check that out before taking anything else apart.
This is based on the 1976-82 I6 models, but its an off-the-shelf Ford
system should be close enough for your purposes. I don't know about the
V8 and I4 model starters.
The heavy cable from the [+] side of the battery goes to the starter
relay. A smaller gage wire should run from the same post on the relay to
feed the ignition key switch and all accessories. There should always be
[+] present at the back of the ignition key switch, even while off.
Looking at the relay with the battery cable to your left (and the heavy
cable to the starter to your right) there are two smaller terminals on the
relay side facing you. The one to the left is the "I" terminal, it feeds
full battery power to the [+] terminal on the coil during cranking. The
small terminal to your right is the "S" terminal, it is fed power from the
key switch when you turn it to the "Start" position. If you have doubts,
trace the wire from the "I" terminal back to the resistor and/or coil.
With the Jeep in neutral and the wheels chocked (and without your hair and
tie dangling in the belts and fan), remove both of those smaller wires,
noting which goes where. Run a jumper from the [+] terminal of the
battery to the "S" terminal. The relay should pull in -- loudly -- and
the starter should engage. If the relay doesn't pull in there's either a
bad cable connection or the relay is junk. If the relay does pull in then
your problem is someplace between the connection at the battery side of
the relay, the ignition switch and whatever safety switch you may have.
> I am new to troubleshooting jeeps and picked up a voltmeter today. All
> the fuses looked god when I checked them.
>
> Also my jeep is fuel injected if that makes a difference and I can
> hear the fuel pump turn on when I push in the clutch.
That doesn't make sense to me. You'd think that the fuel pump would be
dependent on the keyswitch, not the safety switch. If your fuel pump
_only_ runs when you have the switch on and the clutch pedal depressed,
I'd seriously look for a bunged up safety switch.
> The dilemma was that first my CJ& would not get power at all when the
> key was in the ACC position, I had the steering column rebuilt and
> reinstalled everything. The voltmeter reads 12 volts from the battery
> which I had tested and recharged today.
Measured where and how? You can get a reading of 12V from a cable that
only has one wire the size of a human hair connected, but you can't push
any reasonable sort of load through that.
> When I turn the key to start the jeep I do not hear anything except
> crickets.
My guess is that when you removed the column you bunged up a safety switch
on the clutch. I'd check that out before taking anything else apart.
This is based on the 1976-82 I6 models, but its an off-the-shelf Ford
system should be close enough for your purposes. I don't know about the
V8 and I4 model starters.
The heavy cable from the [+] side of the battery goes to the starter
relay. A smaller gage wire should run from the same post on the relay to
feed the ignition key switch and all accessories. There should always be
[+] present at the back of the ignition key switch, even while off.
Looking at the relay with the battery cable to your left (and the heavy
cable to the starter to your right) there are two smaller terminals on the
relay side facing you. The one to the left is the "I" terminal, it feeds
full battery power to the [+] terminal on the coil during cranking. The
small terminal to your right is the "S" terminal, it is fed power from the
key switch when you turn it to the "Start" position. If you have doubts,
trace the wire from the "I" terminal back to the resistor and/or coil.
With the Jeep in neutral and the wheels chocked (and without your hair and
tie dangling in the belts and fan), remove both of those smaller wires,
noting which goes where. Run a jumper from the [+] terminal of the
battery to the "S" terminal. The relay should pull in -- loudly -- and
the starter should engage. If the relay doesn't pull in there's either a
bad cable connection or the relay is junk. If the relay does pull in then
your problem is someplace between the connection at the battery side of
the relay, the ignition switch and whatever safety switch you may have.
> I am new to troubleshooting jeeps and picked up a voltmeter today. All
> the fuses looked god when I checked them.
>
> Also my jeep is fuel injected if that makes a difference and I can
> hear the fuel pump turn on when I push in the clutch.
That doesn't make sense to me. You'd think that the fuel pump would be
dependent on the keyswitch, not the safety switch. If your fuel pump
_only_ runs when you have the switch on and the clutch pedal depressed,
I'd seriously look for a bunged up safety switch.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Jeep CJ7 won't start/crank, CO just abuses vehicles
On Jan 9, 8:38 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Your steering column has nothing to do with the ignition switch, it's
> not inside there. The switch sits on top of the column way down at the
> bottom and a rod goes from the switch to the key. Now the connecting
> rod might have been sloppy, but...
>
> The switches do get out of adjustment from wear on the linkage rods so
> it has a sliding adjustment on the switch.
>
> I would start down there.
>
> I really don't understand how the fuel pump can come on when you push
> the clutch. CJ's don't have any clutch switches in them that I know of.
>
> On a normal CJ, I would say check the connections on the starter
> solenoid on the fender for a bad connection.
>
> One of the best 'inexpensive' books for your CJ7 is the Haynes manual.
> It is spot on for wiring diagrams.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
>
>
>
> rcaw...@gmail.com wrote:
> > The dilemma was that first my CJ& would not get power at all when the
> > key was in the ACC position, I had the steering column rebuilt and
> > reinstalled everything. The voltmeter reads 12 volts from the battery
> > which I had tested and recharged today.
>
> > When I turn the key to start the jeep I do not hear anything except
> > crickets.
>
> > I am new to troubleshooting jeeps and picked up a voltmeter today. All
> > the fuses looked god when I checked them.
>
> > Also my jeep is fuel injected if that makes a difference and I can
> > hear the fuel pump turn on when I push in the clutch.
>
> > Any help and suggestions would be much appreciated.
>
> > Thanks,
> > Rob- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I will check my Haynes manual and start with the safety switch
assuming I can find it, I have tried both the old and a new ignition
switch with no luck, I will look at the ignition switch again as well
but it seemed to be installed correctly. I cleaned all the connections
on the solenoid already and used the AC range set at 750 to check
voltage? is that right, anyway the battery read 26 as did the positive
side of the solenoid and the black I assume negative cable from the
solenoid to the starter.
> Your steering column has nothing to do with the ignition switch, it's
> not inside there. The switch sits on top of the column way down at the
> bottom and a rod goes from the switch to the key. Now the connecting
> rod might have been sloppy, but...
>
> The switches do get out of adjustment from wear on the linkage rods so
> it has a sliding adjustment on the switch.
>
> I would start down there.
>
> I really don't understand how the fuel pump can come on when you push
> the clutch. CJ's don't have any clutch switches in them that I know of.
>
> On a normal CJ, I would say check the connections on the starter
> solenoid on the fender for a bad connection.
>
> One of the best 'inexpensive' books for your CJ7 is the Haynes manual.
> It is spot on for wiring diagrams.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
>
>
>
> rcaw...@gmail.com wrote:
> > The dilemma was that first my CJ& would not get power at all when the
> > key was in the ACC position, I had the steering column rebuilt and
> > reinstalled everything. The voltmeter reads 12 volts from the battery
> > which I had tested and recharged today.
>
> > When I turn the key to start the jeep I do not hear anything except
> > crickets.
>
> > I am new to troubleshooting jeeps and picked up a voltmeter today. All
> > the fuses looked god when I checked them.
>
> > Also my jeep is fuel injected if that makes a difference and I can
> > hear the fuel pump turn on when I push in the clutch.
>
> > Any help and suggestions would be much appreciated.
>
> > Thanks,
> > Rob- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I will check my Haynes manual and start with the safety switch
assuming I can find it, I have tried both the old and a new ignition
switch with no luck, I will look at the ignition switch again as well
but it seemed to be installed correctly. I cleaned all the connections
on the solenoid already and used the AC range set at 750 to check
voltage? is that right, anyway the battery read 26 as did the positive
side of the solenoid and the black I assume negative cable from the
solenoid to the starter.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Jeep CJ7 won't start/crank, CO just abuses vehicles
On Jan 9, 8:38 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Your steering column has nothing to do with the ignition switch, it's
> not inside there. The switch sits on top of the column way down at the
> bottom and a rod goes from the switch to the key. Now the connecting
> rod might have been sloppy, but...
>
> The switches do get out of adjustment from wear on the linkage rods so
> it has a sliding adjustment on the switch.
>
> I would start down there.
>
> I really don't understand how the fuel pump can come on when you push
> the clutch. CJ's don't have any clutch switches in them that I know of.
>
> On a normal CJ, I would say check the connections on the starter
> solenoid on the fender for a bad connection.
>
> One of the best 'inexpensive' books for your CJ7 is the Haynes manual.
> It is spot on for wiring diagrams.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
>
>
>
> rcaw...@gmail.com wrote:
> > The dilemma was that first my CJ& would not get power at all when the
> > key was in the ACC position, I had the steering column rebuilt and
> > reinstalled everything. The voltmeter reads 12 volts from the battery
> > which I had tested and recharged today.
>
> > When I turn the key to start the jeep I do not hear anything except
> > crickets.
>
> > I am new to troubleshooting jeeps and picked up a voltmeter today. All
> > the fuses looked god when I checked them.
>
> > Also my jeep is fuel injected if that makes a difference and I can
> > hear the fuel pump turn on when I push in the clutch.
>
> > Any help and suggestions would be much appreciated.
>
> > Thanks,
> > Rob- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
How does the sliding adjustment on the ignition switch work just in
case I can't figure it out?
Thanks,
Rob
> Your steering column has nothing to do with the ignition switch, it's
> not inside there. The switch sits on top of the column way down at the
> bottom and a rod goes from the switch to the key. Now the connecting
> rod might have been sloppy, but...
>
> The switches do get out of adjustment from wear on the linkage rods so
> it has a sliding adjustment on the switch.
>
> I would start down there.
>
> I really don't understand how the fuel pump can come on when you push
> the clutch. CJ's don't have any clutch switches in them that I know of.
>
> On a normal CJ, I would say check the connections on the starter
> solenoid on the fender for a bad connection.
>
> One of the best 'inexpensive' books for your CJ7 is the Haynes manual.
> It is spot on for wiring diagrams.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
>
>
>
> rcaw...@gmail.com wrote:
> > The dilemma was that first my CJ& would not get power at all when the
> > key was in the ACC position, I had the steering column rebuilt and
> > reinstalled everything. The voltmeter reads 12 volts from the battery
> > which I had tested and recharged today.
>
> > When I turn the key to start the jeep I do not hear anything except
> > crickets.
>
> > I am new to troubleshooting jeeps and picked up a voltmeter today. All
> > the fuses looked god when I checked them.
>
> > Also my jeep is fuel injected if that makes a difference and I can
> > hear the fuel pump turn on when I push in the clutch.
>
> > Any help and suggestions would be much appreciated.
>
> > Thanks,
> > Rob- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
How does the sliding adjustment on the ignition switch work just in
case I can't figure it out?
Thanks,
Rob
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Jeep CJ7 won't start/crank, CO just abuses vehicles
On Jan 9, 11:44 am, Lee Ayrton <layr...@panix.com> wrote:
> On Tue, 8 Jan 2008, rcaw...@gmail.com wrote:
> > The dilemma was that first my CJ& would not get power at all when the
> > key was in the ACC position, I had the steering column rebuilt and
> > reinstalled everything. The voltmeter reads 12 volts from the battery
> > which I had tested and recharged today.
>
> Measured where and how? You can get a reading of 12V from a cable that
> only has one wire the size of a human hair connected, but you can't push
> any reasonable sort of load through that.
>
> > When I turn the key to start the jeep I do not hear anything except
> > crickets.
>
> My guess is that when you removed the column you bunged up a safety switch
> on the clutch. I'd check that out before taking anything else apart.
>
> This is based on the 1976-82 I6 models, but its an off-the-shelf Ford
> system should be close enough for your purposes. I don't know about the
> V8 and I4 model starters.
>
> The heavy cable from the [+] side of the battery goes to the starter
> relay. A smaller gage wire should run from the same post on the relay to
> feed the ignition key switch and all accessories. There should always be
> [+] present at the back of the ignition key switch, even while off.
>
> Looking at the relay with the battery cable to your left (and the heavy
> cable to the starter to your right) there are two smaller terminals on the
> relay side facing you. The one to the left is the "I" terminal, it feeds
> full battery power to the [+] terminal on the coil during cranking. The
> small terminal to your right is the "S" terminal, it is fed power from the
> key switch when you turn it to the "Start" position. If you have doubts,
> trace the wire from the "I" terminal back to the resistor and/or coil.
>
> With the Jeep in neutral and the wheels chocked (and without your hair and
> tie dangling in the belts and fan), remove both of those smaller wires,
> noting which goes where. Run a jumper from the [+] terminal of the
> battery to the "S" terminal. The relay should pull in -- loudly -- and
> the starter should engage. If the relay doesn't pull in there's either a
> bad cable connection or the relay is junk. If the relay does pull in then
> your problem is someplace between the connection at the battery side of
> the relay, the ignition switch and whatever safety switch you may have.
>
> > I am new to troubleshooting jeeps and picked up a voltmeter today. All
> > the fuses looked god when I checked them.
>
> > Also my jeep is fuel injected if that makes a difference and I can
> > hear the fuel pump turn on when I push in the clutch.
>
> That doesn't make sense to me. You'd think that the fuel pump would be
> dependent on the keyswitch, not the safety switch. If your fuel pump
> _only_ runs when you have the switch on and the clutch pedal depressed,
> I'd seriously look for a bunged up safety switch.
What does a safety switch look like and where could it possibly be on
an 85 CJ7 Laredo?
Thanks,
Rob
> On Tue, 8 Jan 2008, rcaw...@gmail.com wrote:
> > The dilemma was that first my CJ& would not get power at all when the
> > key was in the ACC position, I had the steering column rebuilt and
> > reinstalled everything. The voltmeter reads 12 volts from the battery
> > which I had tested and recharged today.
>
> Measured where and how? You can get a reading of 12V from a cable that
> only has one wire the size of a human hair connected, but you can't push
> any reasonable sort of load through that.
>
> > When I turn the key to start the jeep I do not hear anything except
> > crickets.
>
> My guess is that when you removed the column you bunged up a safety switch
> on the clutch. I'd check that out before taking anything else apart.
>
> This is based on the 1976-82 I6 models, but its an off-the-shelf Ford
> system should be close enough for your purposes. I don't know about the
> V8 and I4 model starters.
>
> The heavy cable from the [+] side of the battery goes to the starter
> relay. A smaller gage wire should run from the same post on the relay to
> feed the ignition key switch and all accessories. There should always be
> [+] present at the back of the ignition key switch, even while off.
>
> Looking at the relay with the battery cable to your left (and the heavy
> cable to the starter to your right) there are two smaller terminals on the
> relay side facing you. The one to the left is the "I" terminal, it feeds
> full battery power to the [+] terminal on the coil during cranking. The
> small terminal to your right is the "S" terminal, it is fed power from the
> key switch when you turn it to the "Start" position. If you have doubts,
> trace the wire from the "I" terminal back to the resistor and/or coil.
>
> With the Jeep in neutral and the wheels chocked (and without your hair and
> tie dangling in the belts and fan), remove both of those smaller wires,
> noting which goes where. Run a jumper from the [+] terminal of the
> battery to the "S" terminal. The relay should pull in -- loudly -- and
> the starter should engage. If the relay doesn't pull in there's either a
> bad cable connection or the relay is junk. If the relay does pull in then
> your problem is someplace between the connection at the battery side of
> the relay, the ignition switch and whatever safety switch you may have.
>
> > I am new to troubleshooting jeeps and picked up a voltmeter today. All
> > the fuses looked god when I checked them.
>
> > Also my jeep is fuel injected if that makes a difference and I can
> > hear the fuel pump turn on when I push in the clutch.
>
> That doesn't make sense to me. You'd think that the fuel pump would be
> dependent on the keyswitch, not the safety switch. If your fuel pump
> _only_ runs when you have the switch on and the clutch pedal depressed,
> I'd seriously look for a bunged up safety switch.
What does a safety switch look like and where could it possibly be on
an 85 CJ7 Laredo?
Thanks,
Rob
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Jeep CJ7 won't start/crank, CO just abuses vehicles
rcawrse@gmail.com wrote:
> On Jan 9, 8:38 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Your steering column has nothing to do with the ignition switch, it's
>> not inside there. The switch sits on top of the column way down at the
>> bottom and a rod goes from the switch to the key. Now the connecting
>> rod might have been sloppy, but...
>>
>> The switches do get out of adjustment from wear on the linkage rods so
>> it has a sliding adjustment on the switch.
>>
>> I would start down there.
>>
>> I really don't understand how the fuel pump can come on when you push
>> the clutch. CJ's don't have any clutch switches in them that I know of.
>>
>> On a normal CJ, I would say check the connections on the starter
>> solenoid on the fender for a bad connection.
>>
>> One of the best 'inexpensive' books for your CJ7 is the Haynes manual.
>> It is spot on for wiring diagrams.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
>> Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
>>
>>
>>
>> rcaw...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> The dilemma was that first my CJ& would not get power at all when the
>>> key was in the ACC position, I had the steering column rebuilt and
>>> reinstalled everything. The voltmeter reads 12 volts from the battery
>>> which I had tested and recharged today.
>>> When I turn the key to start the jeep I do not hear anything except
>>> crickets.
>>> I am new to troubleshooting jeeps and picked up a voltmeter today. All
>>> the fuses looked god when I checked them.
>>> Also my jeep is fuel injected if that makes a difference and I can
>>> hear the fuel pump turn on when I push in the clutch.
>>> Any help and suggestions would be much appreciated.
>>> Thanks,
>>> Rob- Hide quoted text -
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> I will check my Haynes manual and start with the safety switch
> assuming I can find it, I have tried both the old and a new ignition
> switch with no luck, I will look at the ignition switch again as well
> but it seemed to be installed correctly. I cleaned all the connections
> on the solenoid already and used the AC range set at 750 to check
> voltage? is that right, anyway the battery read 26 as did the positive
> side of the solenoid and the black I assume negative cable from the
> solenoid to the starter.
You need your meter set to 20 V DC. The 'power' or positive wire to the
starter from the solenoid only sees 12 volts when the key is switch to
'start'.
There is no safety switch in a 'stock' CJ7 with a standard tranny. An
automatic has a neutral safety switch so it only starts in neutral or park.
There are no switches on the clutch or brake that affect starting in a
'stock' CJ7.
A CJ7 does 'not' have an electric fuel pump stock, it is mechanical.
They did not put Fuel Injection into a 'Stock' CJ7.
Just what engine is in that thing anyway?
When you turn the key on, do any lights on the dash light up?
Mike
> On Jan 9, 8:38 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> Your steering column has nothing to do with the ignition switch, it's
>> not inside there. The switch sits on top of the column way down at the
>> bottom and a rod goes from the switch to the key. Now the connecting
>> rod might have been sloppy, but...
>>
>> The switches do get out of adjustment from wear on the linkage rods so
>> it has a sliding adjustment on the switch.
>>
>> I would start down there.
>>
>> I really don't understand how the fuel pump can come on when you push
>> the clutch. CJ's don't have any clutch switches in them that I know of.
>>
>> On a normal CJ, I would say check the connections on the starter
>> solenoid on the fender for a bad connection.
>>
>> One of the best 'inexpensive' books for your CJ7 is the Haynes manual.
>> It is spot on for wiring diagrams.
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
>> Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
>>
>>
>>
>> rcaw...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> The dilemma was that first my CJ& would not get power at all when the
>>> key was in the ACC position, I had the steering column rebuilt and
>>> reinstalled everything. The voltmeter reads 12 volts from the battery
>>> which I had tested and recharged today.
>>> When I turn the key to start the jeep I do not hear anything except
>>> crickets.
>>> I am new to troubleshooting jeeps and picked up a voltmeter today. All
>>> the fuses looked god when I checked them.
>>> Also my jeep is fuel injected if that makes a difference and I can
>>> hear the fuel pump turn on when I push in the clutch.
>>> Any help and suggestions would be much appreciated.
>>> Thanks,
>>> Rob- Hide quoted text -
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> I will check my Haynes manual and start with the safety switch
> assuming I can find it, I have tried both the old and a new ignition
> switch with no luck, I will look at the ignition switch again as well
> but it seemed to be installed correctly. I cleaned all the connections
> on the solenoid already and used the AC range set at 750 to check
> voltage? is that right, anyway the battery read 26 as did the positive
> side of the solenoid and the black I assume negative cable from the
> solenoid to the starter.
You need your meter set to 20 V DC. The 'power' or positive wire to the
starter from the solenoid only sees 12 volts when the key is switch to
'start'.
There is no safety switch in a 'stock' CJ7 with a standard tranny. An
automatic has a neutral safety switch so it only starts in neutral or park.
There are no switches on the clutch or brake that affect starting in a
'stock' CJ7.
A CJ7 does 'not' have an electric fuel pump stock, it is mechanical.
They did not put Fuel Injection into a 'Stock' CJ7.
Just what engine is in that thing anyway?
When you turn the key on, do any lights on the dash light up?
Mike
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Jeep CJ7 won't start/crank, CO just abuses vehicles
On Jan 9, 8:24 pm, rcaw...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Jan 9, 8:38 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Your steering column has nothing to do with the ignition switch, it's
> > not inside there. The switch sits on top of the column way down at the
> > bottom and a rod goes from the switch to the key. Now the connecting
> > rod might have been sloppy, but...
>
> > The switches do get out of adjustment from wear on the linkage rods so
> > it has a sliding adjustment on the switch.
>
> > I would start down there.
>
> > I really don't understand how the fuel pump can come on when you push
> > the clutch. CJ's don't have any clutch switches in them that I know of.
>
> > On a normal CJ, I would say check the connections on the starter
> > solenoid on the fender for a bad connection.
>
> > One of the best 'inexpensive' books for your CJ7 is the Haynes manual.
> > It is spot on for wiring diagrams.
>
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> > Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
>
> > rcaw...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > The dilemma was that first my CJ& would not get power at all when the
> > > key was in the ACC position, I had the steering column rebuilt and
> > > reinstalled everything. The voltmeter reads 12 volts from the battery
> > > which I had tested and recharged today.
>
> > > When I turn the key to start the jeep I do not hear anything except
> > > crickets.
>
> > > I am new to troubleshooting jeeps and picked up a voltmeter today. All
> > > the fuses looked god when I checked them.
>
> > > Also my jeep is fuel injected if that makes a difference and I can
> > > hear the fuel pump turn on when I push in the clutch.
>
> > > Any help and suggestions would be much appreciated.
>
> > > Thanks,
> > > Rob- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> How does the sliding adjustment on the ignition switch work just in
> case I can't figure it out?
>
> Thanks,
> Rob
The key cylinder is tied to the ignition switch via a thin metal rod
that travels down the shaft of the steering column. On my Cherokee,
this rod takes a 90 degree turn at the lower end, which then goes into
the switch. This rod pushes or pulls the sliding portion of the
ignition switch. There are a number of different positions the
sliding portion of the ignition switch can engage. These positions
control the flow of current through the various different spade
connectors that make up the switch. The metal "arm" that ties the key
to the switch moves the selector back and forth, and thus determines
where the current is flowing, START, RUN, OFF, Accessory, etc.
It is possible for the new switch's sliding selector to not be in the
correct position when you install it. Thus, when you turn the key,
the right connections are not made. I've had to monkey with this a
couple of times when I've replaced my switch, manually moving the
selector before installing it to ensure it works properly. I've
usually determined where the Accessory position is, and the moved the
slider to the OFF position before installing the switch onto the
column.
On the cherokee, there is another metal rod that also runs along the
steering column, used to actuate the headlight dimmer. I tape this
one in place before removing the old ignition switch, as if you don't,
on the cherokee it can fall right out when the ignition switch is
removed, and is a real pain to reinstall.
> On Jan 9, 8:38 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Your steering column has nothing to do with the ignition switch, it's
> > not inside there. The switch sits on top of the column way down at the
> > bottom and a rod goes from the switch to the key. Now the connecting
> > rod might have been sloppy, but...
>
> > The switches do get out of adjustment from wear on the linkage rods so
> > it has a sliding adjustment on the switch.
>
> > I would start down there.
>
> > I really don't understand how the fuel pump can come on when you push
> > the clutch. CJ's don't have any clutch switches in them that I know of.
>
> > On a normal CJ, I would say check the connections on the starter
> > solenoid on the fender for a bad connection.
>
> > One of the best 'inexpensive' books for your CJ7 is the Haynes manual.
> > It is spot on for wiring diagrams.
>
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
> > Photos:http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
>
> > rcaw...@gmail.com wrote:
> > > The dilemma was that first my CJ& would not get power at all when the
> > > key was in the ACC position, I had the steering column rebuilt and
> > > reinstalled everything. The voltmeter reads 12 volts from the battery
> > > which I had tested and recharged today.
>
> > > When I turn the key to start the jeep I do not hear anything except
> > > crickets.
>
> > > I am new to troubleshooting jeeps and picked up a voltmeter today. All
> > > the fuses looked god when I checked them.
>
> > > Also my jeep is fuel injected if that makes a difference and I can
> > > hear the fuel pump turn on when I push in the clutch.
>
> > > Any help and suggestions would be much appreciated.
>
> > > Thanks,
> > > Rob- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> How does the sliding adjustment on the ignition switch work just in
> case I can't figure it out?
>
> Thanks,
> Rob
The key cylinder is tied to the ignition switch via a thin metal rod
that travels down the shaft of the steering column. On my Cherokee,
this rod takes a 90 degree turn at the lower end, which then goes into
the switch. This rod pushes or pulls the sliding portion of the
ignition switch. There are a number of different positions the
sliding portion of the ignition switch can engage. These positions
control the flow of current through the various different spade
connectors that make up the switch. The metal "arm" that ties the key
to the switch moves the selector back and forth, and thus determines
where the current is flowing, START, RUN, OFF, Accessory, etc.
It is possible for the new switch's sliding selector to not be in the
correct position when you install it. Thus, when you turn the key,
the right connections are not made. I've had to monkey with this a
couple of times when I've replaced my switch, manually moving the
selector before installing it to ensure it works properly. I've
usually determined where the Accessory position is, and the moved the
slider to the OFF position before installing the switch onto the
column.
On the cherokee, there is another metal rod that also runs along the
steering column, used to actuate the headlight dimmer. I tape this
one in place before removing the old ignition switch, as if you don't,
on the cherokee it can fall right out when the ignition switch is
removed, and is a real pain to reinstall.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Jeep CJ7 won't start/crank, CO just abuses vehicles
http://www.----------.com/steeringColumn.pdf
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:----------@----------.com
<rcawrse@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:4e6d6834-36b0-4aaf-be9e-bce80582b060@q77g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
How does the sliding adjustment on the ignition switch work just in
case I can't figure it out?
Thanks,
Rob
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:----------@----------.com
<rcawrse@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:4e6d6834-36b0-4aaf-be9e-bce80582b060@q77g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
How does the sliding adjustment on the ignition switch work just in
case I can't figure it out?
Thanks,
Rob